Who found the cool overflow tank?

[sk7500]

When driving our car last week end I had water coming out of the overflow port on the canton tank while driving. The temp was steady @ 195 deg and it was not nearly a hot day. When I shut it off even more water came out. So I might not have got the cap on right but regardless I would like to install an aux catch tank in case it boils over at shut down. Will I need to change the Canton tank cap to allow the water to be drawn back into the system once it cools?
Which brings me to my original question. I remember someone posting that they found a cool overflow tank at a local auto center. I looked through a year of posts and did some search engine stuff but no luck. So I call on our collective memory to help me out.
Thanks Guys
Steve

[RF RIDER]

Steve;
It was Hugo (Kempo) that posted about adding an additional catch can. Can't recall right now if it is in his original thread (build is picking up speed). He left the canton tank as is and routed a line to the additional tank. Not sure if your set up is simular to his. I have done roughly the same as Kempo, but I have yet to run my car. Waiting to see if mine does the same.

[LCD Gauges]

You had commented on mine on the other forum. Here's a link:

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attac...5&d=1379491530

[sk7500]

Thanks guys, That gives me something to look for. But after I posted this I thought "Hey you're going to SEMA soon. I'll bet there will be something there" So maybe I should wait until after SEMA to buy something. Wow this patience thing could really work.

[VD2021]

Hugo's build thread, Post #695 displays his overflow mod and install. http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...l=1#post100771

I'm going to add one also and think the type Tino is using will fit the space I have.

[sressue]

Another option. I installed a power steering overflow tank from CFR Performance, works great. Cost $35.99

image.jpgimage.jpg

[sk7500]

Hugo's build thread, Post #695 displays his overflow mod and install. http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...l=1#post100771

I'm going to add one also and think the type Tino is using will fit the space I have.

Thanks Vidal,
I finally got to look at Hugo's post and I realized something an I have no idea if it matters. When you get the expansion tank from crash it comes with a T that screws to the bottom of the canton tank. So coolant is essentially flowing straight through the straight section of the tee and the vertical leg of the tee feeds into the tank. In that configuration there would be very little turbulant water movement in the tank. Unfortunately the straight tee forced me to run the 3/4in heater lines into a large loop in the engine comp. So my solution was to weld a bung into the side of the tank and eliminate the bottom tee and the loop in the engine comp. But this configuration forces water through the tank. I wonder if my configuration with all the turbulence in the tank is what's causing the cap to unseat while driving. I thought an overflow tank just allows for expansion when you shut the engine down and the water soaks up the heat from the engine block and boils over? I don't remember haveing this problem when running it as supplied with the tee on the bottom.

[sk7500]

Another option. I installed a power steering overflow tank from CFR Performance, works great. Cost $35.99

image.jpgimage.jpg

I like it! If I don't see something I like better at SEMA, that's what I'm getting. Did you just run the overflow tube on the Canton tank into the fitting on the bottom if this tank? Do you have to change the cap on the Canton tank to allow it to suck the water back out of this tank?
Thanks for the info.

[The Stig]

I'm interested in hearing more about this as well. I'm looking for a bleed/overflow tank for the radiator bleed, and this looks like it could work perfectly.

I ran a drain tube off of my canton tank to exit out of the bottom of the car. After I switched over to the HVAC bypass/recirculation valve, I've not had any issues with the Canton Tank burping out coolant. But with that said, I also think it may be a good idea to add the catch can to the Canton overflow. So this set up looks promising for that as well.

Mike

[Kempo]

Thanks Vidal,
I finally got to look at Hugo's post and I realized something an I have no idea if it matters. When you get the expansion tank from crash it comes with a T that screws to the bottom of the canton tank. So coolant is essentially flowing straight through the straight section of the tee and the vertical leg of the tee feeds into the tank. In that configuration there would be very little turbulant water movement in the tank. Unfortunately the straight tee forced me to run the 3/4in heater lines into a large loop in the engine comp. So my solution was to weld a bung into the side of the tank and eliminate the bottom tee and the loop in the engine comp. But this configuration forces water through the tank. I wonder if my configuration with all the turbulence in the tank is what's causing the cap to unseat while driving. I thought an overflow tank just allows for expansion when you shut the engine down and the water soaks up the heat from the engine block and boils over? I don't remember haveing this problem when running it as supplied with the tee on the bottom.

Steve,
The best setup is to have the coolant flow straight as in the Corvette expansion tank and Crash's set up. That way coolant would just flow from one side to the other and just fill the expansion tank as needed. I removed mine last week in order to weld to it a set up like the one sold by crash. My plan is to have it welded to the tank instead of the brass fitting. The brass setup works perfectly it's just that I don't like the way it looks. Although after installing my overflow tank I haven't had any more issues of having to add coolant. I decided to do this as I know that is the best setup over what I had.

The coolant will expand wile operating temperatures increase and wile heat soaking immediately after turning the car off.The cap that comes with the canton tank will work with the overflow tank setup. If you look at the cap it has two gaskets. One that seals at the top of the tank's opening. The other one which is the lower one seals at the bottom area of the tank's opening. This lower seal is allowed to move up when the pressure in the system is higher than the pressure on the cap 15PSI. When ever the pressure in the system reaches that pressure will be released via the fitting on the water neck. Without an overflow tank that fluid goes to the ground and its lost. with the overflow tank that fluid would be stored and later sucked back to the engine. As the coolant cools down it will create a vacuum in the system. At the center bottom of the cap there is a small round metal seal/valve that seals under pressure but if you pull on it (vacuum) it will allow coolant to return from the overflow tank to the expansion tank thus filling it back up.


H

[sk7500]

Thanks for clearing things up for me. It sounds like I'm going to try and add the overflow tank first and see what happens.
I remember someone purchased a mandrel bent "U" shaped piece of aluminum tubing and welded it on the bottom of his tank. Looked like exactly what was needed but I couldn't find the U shape piece when I was at that stage. So I did the next best thing. So I thought.

[sressue]

I like it! If I don't see something I like better at SEMA, that's what I'm getting. Did you just run the overflow tube on the Canton tank into the fitting on the bottom if this tank? Do you have to change the cap on the Canton tank to allow it to suck the water back out of this tank?
Thanks for the info.

I ran the overflow line from the Canton tank to the bottom of the recovery tank and I used the 15# cap that came with the Canton tank. With the sight tube on the side of the recovery tank you can see the coolent level and also see it disappear and return to the Canton tank.

Steve R.

[crash]

Steve, if you are blowing water out under normal use, and the cap is tight, then there is something else wrong in the system. Bad thermostat, plugged radiator, worn out pump, etc.

[sk7500]

Steve, if you are blowing water out under normal use, and the cap is tight, then there is something else wrong in the system. Bad thermostat, plugged radiator, worn out pump, etc.

That's what I was afraid of. I checked it today when cold. The cap was installed correctly. The water level was about 1/2" over the bottom of the tank. I filled the tank to about 1/2 full. Drove the car about 10 miles. Checked it while running (nothing). Let it sit about 1/2 hour (no overflow). I then checked the water level. It was about 1" from the top of the tank. The temp sits about 200 while driving.

Is it possible I had it overfilled? I'm going to take it to work tomorrow and see what happens.

[LCD Gauges]

Is it possible you don't have all the air out of the system, and it's boiling over? Are you bleeding at the highest point
in the system? The valve must be higher than the engine, or any cooling lines, etc.

[sk7500]

It's my understanding the tank being the highest point in the system eliminates the need to break all the lines chasing air?

Is it possible you don't have all the air out of the system, and it's boiling over? Are you bleeding at the highest point
in the system? The valve must be higher than the engine, or any cooling lines, etc.

[Kempo]

Having the overflow tank also helps to bleed the system. You can fill your header tank to the top. If there is any air in the system it will end up in the header tank. When the pressure in the system opens up the valve on the cap that air will go out to the overflow tank along with the excess coolant you may have when it expands as it gets hot. When the car cools down it will pull back only coolant as it pulls it from the bottom of the overflow tank. This will help get rid of any air in the system after a few heat cycles. There is a reason why most modern cars have an overflow tank. I rather have my header tank full and have coolant go in to the overflow tank and back to the header tank when it cools. That way I won't have any air in the system at all.

[LCD Gauges]

Yes Steve, that's right...as long as the level doesn't get low enough that air is getting back into the system.

You may want to try a system pressure test to ensure all of the hoses are tight, and the lines are holding the rated pressure (as per cap).

If that all checks out, test the engine (leak down) to rule out head gasket leaks.