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Thread: The 'Savage' build thread

  1. #81
    K3LAG's Avatar
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    I have a wonderful wife

    Look what my wife got me for our 28th anniversary:

    IMG_0529.jpg

    We completed the brake and clutch lines today. Didn't have time to fill the systems and bleed them. That will be our next building session.

    Harness diet is still under way.

    Larry

  2. #82
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    Wayne Presley's Avatar
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    She did? I didn't know
    Wayne Presley www.verycoolparts.com
    Xterminator 705 RWHP supercharged 4.6 DOHC with twin turbos

  3. #83
    Senior Member FFRSpec72's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by K3LAG View Post
    Look what my wife got me for our 28th anniversary:
    Larry
    hmmm, my wife says 28th is Orchids and the 85th is shifter
    Tony Nadalin
    2018 SOVREN Big Bore Champion
    2015 SCCA Oregon Region VP3 Champion
    2012 ICSCC ITE Class Champion
    FFR MkII Challenge Car, Spec Racer, Street Legal, SCCA, ICSCC and NASA Racing
    818R Build in progress

  4. #84
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    lolll, a wife who really understands her man.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  5. #85
    Senior Member AZPete's Avatar
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    Good one, Tony.
    818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities. Sold 10/19 with 5,800 miles.
    Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).

  6. #86
    Senior Member RM1SepEx's Avatar
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    My wife of 30 yrs just let's me buy whatever I want! She's freer with the checkbook than I am so she pushes me to spend more on the 818
    Dan

    818S #17 Picked up 8/1/13 First start 11/1/13 Go Kart 3/28/14

  7. #87
    Member Westview's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FFRSpec72 View Post
    hmmm, my wife says 28th is Orchids and the 85th is shifter
    That's just cruel!!

    Larry, Congratulations on 28 years with a wonderful wife!!!

  8. #88
    K3LAG's Avatar
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    Instrument Cluster (aka Combination Meter) disassembly

    Here is a quick post on disassembling an instrument cluster. It's fairly simple, but a bit of thought and care will make the job a little easier and reduce the likelihood of damaging something. These instructions apply to 02-05 WRX clusters. Most of them will work for 06-07 clusters and STi clusters, but the EEPROMs are different in these clusters so the step that shows the EEPROM will not match.

    You might want to do this for any of the following reasons:

    1. Replace your EEPROM to reset your mileage. EEPROMs for 02-05 WRX clusters should be available soon.
    2. Change lighting colors.
    3. Change the bezel that surrounds the gauges. There are several aftermarket ones out there.
    4. Simply clean accumulated dust or dirt from inside your cluster. (You probably only need to remove the front pieces to do this)

    2 notes of caution. Treat the gauge assemblies with care. Any damage to the needles is difficult if not impossible to repair and work on a clean soft surface to prevent scratching and provide some cushioning should you drop one of the gauges while disassembling the cluster.

    Step 1. Remove the back panel of the cluster by gently releasing the white plastic clips highlighted in the below picture. Once the clips are removed, set the back panel aside.

    IMG_0020.jpg

    Step 2. Carefully bend the 8 small metal tabs that hold the gauge assemblies to the circuit board. Bend them just enough to straighten them. This is done now because we still have the front of the cluster in place to protect the gauges from damage while straightening the tabs. The gauges will be removed in a later step.

    IMG_0021.jpg

    Step 3: Carefully release the highlighted clips to remove to front clear lens from the cluster. Set the lens aside in a safe place so it doesn't get scratched.

    IMG_0022.jpg

    Step 4: Carefully release the clips that hold the front black portion of the cluster on and set it aside. Not all of the clips are shown in this picture. There are a couple on the opposite side.

    IMG_0023.jpg

    Your cluster should now look like this:

    IMG_0024.jpg

    Step 5: Use a small tool to gently press the gauge assemblies off the circuit board from the back. Have a hand ready to catch the gauge when it drops loose to prevent damage.

    IMG_0025.jpg

    Your cluster should now look something like this:

    IMG_0026.jpg

    Set the gauges aside in a safe place.

    Step 6: If you are replacing the EEPROM in your cluster. Desolder the 8 pin DIP shown in the two photos below. If you don't feel comfortable doing the desoldering and resoldering yourself, find someone to do it for you.

    IMG_0027.jpg IMG_0028.jpg

    Step 7: Install the reprogrammed EEPROM in your cluster, reassemble the cluster by reversing the above steps and test it. Be sure to re-bend the tabs that hold the gauges in place after you reinstall them.

    IMG_0029.jpg

    More info to come on EEPROM availability.

    Larry

  9. #89
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    great write up Larry
    Wayne Presley www.verycoolparts.com
    Xterminator 705 RWHP supercharged 4.6 DOHC with twin turbos

  10. #90
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    Larry's Harness Diet Method - Part 1 - Preparation

    Here is my series on how I am attacking dieting my wiring harness.

    Note: This is certainly not the only way to do it. It may not even be the best, but it's working for me.

    This first portion is on preparation. Preparation and organization is key to be successful in this endeavor. Patience helps as well. I suggest you not work on it when you are tired, distracted or otherwise in a state where you can't pay full attention to what you are doing.

    Note that I am only crimping most of my splices. I'm comfortable doing this because I am using high quality connectors and the proper crimp tool. If you don't have high quality connectors and tools, I suggest you solder your splices.

    1. Tools:

    Wire cutters (both large and small)
    A couple of pairs of pliers to hold wires, pull out pins, etc
    Various probes, picks and other small pointy instruments to release pins from connectors
    Good crimpers. Be sure they are the right type of crimpers for the connectors you will use.
    Scissors, knife, etc for cutting off insulation
    Multimeter for testing connections and continuity
    A label printer. Preferably one that will print on cloth or other industrial labels. I use a Dymo Rhino 5000. The labels stick well even to dirty things.
    A heat gun or other heating device for the heat shrink
    A cable stretcher
    A large table/area to work. We built a temporary 4'x8' table.

    2. Supplies:

    Electrical tape
    Butt and splice connectors. I prefer the type that have heat shrink to seal them after crimping
    Wire loom/covering of your choice to replace what you will cut off
    Paperclips - more on this later
    Plenty of paper and ink/toner in your printer
    A PDF version of the wiring section of your year of donor (or harness if different)
    Zip lock bags

    Step 1: Print the wiring section of the factory service manual for your donor. This will be 180+ pages depending on the year, but you will definitely want a hard copy.

    One you have the wiring section printed up, we are going to divide it into sections that we will use as we go through the process.

    The first section of the manual contains a bunch of general information about the wiring. There is a bunch of useful information in this section and it is good to read it, but you most likely won't need it on hand during the dieting process so just put it someplace in case you need to refer to it.

    The next sections of the wiring manual are the details of each system. The first section is Power Distribution and the second is ground distribution. Take each of these two sections and put a paperclip on them.

    The next bunch of sections are the various systems in alphabetical order. Some are single pages, some are several. Divide them up and put a paper clip on each section. We will diet the harness system by system so it's convenient to have these sections of the diagrams separated this way.

    After the wiring diagrams you will find a few sections that show the harness routing for each of the sections of the harness. We will be using these sections for the next step.

    2. Making labels

    The first page of the harness part of the manual looks like this:

    Screen Shot 2014-05-07 at 5.54.52 PM.jpg

    Use this section to familiarize yourself with the harness sections. Plug the various sections of your harness together so you can see how it all comes together. This familiarization will pay off as you go.

    Next, for each section of the harness, you will find pages that show the harness routing and connector locations and a list of all the connectors for that section of the harness. For example, here is the Front Harness section for an 02-03:

    Screen Shot 2014-05-07 at 5.55.31 PM.jpg Screen Shot 2014-05-07 at 5.55.14 PM.jpg

    Use the list of connectors and make labels for EVERY connector. Put the connector number (like F6) and description on the label. For connectors that connect harnesses together I listed them with both connector numbers for instance one of the connectors from the front harness to bulkhead harness was labeled as "F74 | B200 Bulkhead wiring harness". The mating connector would be labeled "B200 | F74 Front wiring harness"

    Once the labels for a section of the harness are printed, put them in a zip lock bag. Also, fold up the connector list and harness diagram pages for that section and put them in the bag as well. You will end up with about a half dozen bags of labels.

    Do this for each section of the harness.

    3. Put the labels on:

    Using one bag of labels and diagrams at a time, label all the connectors with the labels you made. There are a few connectors that are so small its easier to put the label on the harness right by the connector.

    You may have some left over labels. The later cars are more likely to have more left over labels as there were more options on those cars like Automatic Climate Control.

    You may find cases were it is hard to identify which connector is which because there are multiple connectors in the same area with the same number of pins. In some cases, you can figure out which they are by finding the device that plugs into them. If you can't do that, look in the wiring diagrams to identify the wire colors for those connectors.

    At this point you may have as much as 5-8 hours of work into your harness and we haven't removed a single wire yet. Don't fret, the preparation will make the rest of the job manageable.

    In the next episode, we will begin to actually remove some wires!

    Larry
    Last edited by K3LAG; 05-13-2014 at 08:34 AM. Reason: Add a couple tools

  11. Thanks Shawn818c thanked for this post
  12. #91
    K3LAG's Avatar
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    Larry's Harness Diet Method - Part 2 - Removing systems

    Now for the fun part. The actual dieting. This step will result in a big pile of leftover cable. Don’t throw it away! Some of it will be used for splices and extensions in Part 3.

    In this step we aren’t so much focused on the arrangement of the harness. Our primary goal is to get rid of all the stuff we don’t need. Once the harness is slimmed down, we can do some rearranging and tweaking in Part 3.

    There are some layout differences between the different years of harnesses and different years of wiring diagrams. For instance the 02-03 wiring diagrams show the airbag circuits, but the harness diagrams in the back don’t show them or list the connectors except for the one connector that connects all the airbag ‘stuff’ to the bulkhead harness. Fortunately the Air Bag stuff is all yellow and easy to find and remove. In fact, I recommend it be the first system you remove since it’s easy and gets rid of a bit of bulk.

    Use the technique I will describe below to remove each system. You may find as you go that you can take some shortcuts as you learn how things are layer out. That’s fine, but be careful that you don’t get in too big of a hurry and cut on the wrong side of a splice.

    On my harness, I removed the following systems:

    Air Bag
    Air Conditioning
    Anti-lock Brake
    Audio
    Clock
    Compass Mirror
    Cruise Control
    Door Lock
    Front Accessory Power Supply (Partial) - I cut it back close the fuse box so it’s there if I want it for something
    Keyless Entry
    Front Fog Light
    In Compartment Light (Partial)
    Parking Brake and Brake Fluid Level Warning (Partial)
    Power Window
    Rear Accessory Power Supply (some of this wiring is there even for the Sedan)
    Rear Window Defogger
    Security System
    Wiper and Washer (Rear)
    Rear Doors
    Front Doors (all but mirrors)

    There are other specific devices or wires that I also removed, but that was done after the above and will be covered in Part 3.

    Now, the dieting process itself. I have found it best to pick the systems that are the most independent and will remove the most wire first. The air bag system is a good choice as mentioned above. The ABS, at least on cars that don’t have DCCD, is also a good independent system. I will use the ABS system to talk through the process.

    Step 1. Layout the harnesses and remove most of the covering. You can keep it in places near individual devices that you know you won’t be removing. I didn’t do this at first and removed it as I went along. It wasn’t long before I had it all off anyway. As you remove the wrap, your hands will get sticky. Wash them when you are done, it comes off easy.

    Step 2. Grab your paper clipped ABS system pages and look them over to get familiar with them. Identify which portions of the harness are involved. In this case, it is the Front, Bulkhead and Rear harnesses. Here are the pages for reference:

    Screen Shot 2014-05-12 at 8.31.51 PM.png Screen Shot 2014-05-12 at 8.32.06 PM.png Screen Shot 2014-05-12 at 8.32.28 PM.png

    Step 3. I find it best to start removing stuff starting at the points furthest from the fuse/relay boxes. In this case that would be the 4 ABS sensors and the G sensor. Start with the rear harness and remove the sensors all the way to the connector (R3) that attaches the rear harness to the bulkhead harness. You can cut the wires at the connector if you want, but recommend you remove the pins instead. Next remove the wires that go from that mating connector (B99) to the connector (B200) that connects the bulkhead harness to the front one. Next remove the G. sensor from the bulkhead harness up to the same connector (B200). Now you can remove the wires from the front harness connector (F74) to the ABS controller.

    It turns out that on the 02-03 cars, F74/B200 only has ABS wires in it. If you unwrapped the entire harness you will have seen that all the connections from F74/B200 go to the ABS controller. This means you don’t actually need to remove the wires from these two connectors since the connectors will be removed entirely.

    Now, work your way back from B200 toward the center of the bulkhead harness and remove the wires that go to the data link, check and diagnosis connectors. Be sure to trace these wires back carefully. Some of them have splices. Only remove the wires from B200 to the splice. You can also remove the wires going to the fuse box, ABS relay, etc… Again, watch out for the splices. You can actually remove the power wires back to where they go to the main fuse box on the other side of the front connector. Did I say ‘watch out for splices’? Watch out for the White wire with black stripe that goes to the stop light switch. It has a splice in it that includes the wires that actually go to the stop lights. That one was my first lesson in watching out for splices.

    On the 02-03 cars, some of the power wires for the ABS, as well as the front sensors are in the portion of the harness that wraps around the front of the car. Trace these wires from the ABS controller around to the drivers side of the car and remove them. At this point, the entire right hand portion of the front harness will be gone.

    There may be one or two things left in the ABS system that I didn’t mention. Obviously remove them as well.

    Step 4. Now that the entire subject system has been removed put the pages of wiring diagrams from that system into a ‘finished’ pile and move to the next system. Once you get the hang of it, it will go pretty fast and you will have a big pile of wire and a big pile of 'finished' pages before you know it.

    Once you have removed all the systems as described above, it is time to take stock of what you have done and get ready for Part 3.

    Stay tuned…

    Larry
    Last edited by K3LAG; 05-12-2014 at 08:23 PM.

  13. #92
    K3LAG's Avatar
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    Larry's Harness Diet Method - Part 3 - Harness rearranging/simplification

    It has taken me a while to get to this post. As I've been trying to think about how much to describe here it has become a bit problematic because this step is going to be very different depending on how much work you want to do and what year your donor is.

    You could choose at this point to wrap up your slimmed down harness and install it and the fuse boxes as described in the instruction manual. You will have removed some weight and bulk from the harness and gotten rid of a lot of unused connectors and this may be enough to satisfy many people. If this is your option, then you can skip to Part 4, which is to clean up the harness and finish up some details.

    On the other hand, if you are a glutton for punishment like me, you have an unwrapped harness sitting in front of you and you may have noticed the following things:

    1. There is still some miscellaneous connectors and circuits you can remove.
    2. The harness has an awful lot of wire in it as some circuits seem to go from one end of the car and back again.
    3. In a 02-03 harness you have this great big gray, SMJ, connector that connects the bulkhead harness to the front harness. If you examine it further you will realize that everything that goes through the SMJ, plus one other wire, all go directly to two of the engine connectors. And finally, with the exception of about 5 wires all of the wires that run from the bulkhead side of the SMJ run all the way to the other side of the car toward the ECU. If you lengthen those 5 wires you can largely separate that bundle of wires from the rest of the harness. This may sound a little confusing, but the result is that you can separate the part of the front wiring harness that you want in the front (lights, fans, etc...) from the part of the front harness that goes to the engine. This means you have the option to put the main fuse box in the front of the car if you wish, with all of the engine wiring in the back where it belongs. This results in needing to extend fewer wires.
    4. I think this may also work on the later harnesses, but the SMJ is replaced by 2 connectors instead of the one big gray one.

    At this point, you might also want to remove any extraneous circuits you don't need. For instance, I am not implementing the evaporative emissions, so I removed most of those connectors. I did keep the purge solenoid so I can purge the vapor canister connected to the tank vent. I removed the drain valve solenoid, pressure solenoid, fuel temp sensor wires and pressure sensor.

    I simplified the light wiring and terminated it in some weather pack connectors in the front and back that will later get new light harnesses connected to them. This will allow me to remove either the front or rear facia by just unplugging the appropriate light connectors.

    I removed the fuel pump controller connector from the rear harness and connected to shortened wires near the ECU connectors since it will mount near the ECU. I also rearranged the wiring for the Main and Fuel pump relays to put them by the ECU as well.

    This is much of what I did in this step, and I'm actually not quite done yet. As I said before you can really do as much or as little of this as you wish. I will say that if you think you are going to do a lot in this step to really minimize things, I would stop at this point and consider taking the approach that Bob_n_Cincy, and others, took and just rebuild the harness. If you take this step to the extreme, you will end up doing just as much work.

    Here is a really rough diagram of what I will have when finished:

    Wire Diagram.001.jpg

    1. ECU (fuel pump relay, controller, main relay and connections to tank are all here as well)
    2. Dash Fuse Box
    3. Main Fuse Box
    4. Battery
    5. Connector to front light harness
    6. Connector to rear light harness
    7. Rear light harness
    8. Rear 02 and Trans connectors
    9. EGT, Front 02, boost control, MAF
    10. Engine harness connector, starter and alternator
    11. All the dash connections
    12. Fans
    13. Front light harness

    No section of the remaining wiring harness is more than 1" in diameter because I drastically reduced the amount of wiring than ran from one end of the car to the other just to go back the other way again.

    Again, the amount of work you do in this step is up to you. My description above, covers a lot of what I did, but not all. This is probably the most time consuming step and requires the most patience.

    In Part 4 we will cover the easy stuff. Re-covering the harness and finishing up. I hope to be at that step soon.

    Larry
    Last edited by K3LAG; 05-28-2014 at 09:53 PM. Reason: Finally wrote it.

  14. #93
    K3LAG's Avatar
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    Larry's Harness Diet Method - Part 4 - Rewrap and cleanup

    Reserved

  15. #94
    Senior Member Triathletedave's Avatar
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    A question about supplies for the wiring harness:

    Did you purchase a selection of wire spools to use for splicing wires in the numerous places required? If so, how much wire, and what guages of wire would you recommend? I'd like to have all of my supplies ready and on hand before I start dieting and retrofitting the harness, rather than running out to the local shops every day to get yet another spool of xx guage wire in color yy. Any wire supply kits available that include a variety of colors and wire guage together, or should I be buying individual spools for each type?

    Cheers,

    Dave
    TriguyDave
    818 noobie builder
    First start: Sept 28, 2014
    Go-carted: Oct 4, 2014
    Registered and Street legal Sept 30, 2015
    Calgary, Alberta

  16. #95
    K3LAG's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Triathletedave View Post
    A question about supplies for the wiring harness:

    Did you purchase a selection of wire spools to use for splicing wires in the numerous places required? If so, how much wire, and what guages of wire would you recommend? I'd like to have all of my supplies ready and on hand before I start dieting and retrofitting the harness, rather than running out to the local shops every day to get yet another spool of xx guage wire in color yy. Any wire supply kits available that include a variety of colors and wire guage together, or should I be buying individual spools for each type?

    Cheers,

    Dave
    The dieting process has resulted in the removal of a lot of wire. Any splicing or extending I do will use wire from those remnants or from the FFR provided wire.

    Larry

  17. #96

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    Ive been able to extend most of the wiring with the dieted wire. Ive been extending with pretty much the exact color wire if not very similar as a result. The supplied additional wire are enough to do pretty much everything needed.

  18. #97
    Senior Member Triathletedave's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kurk818 View Post
    Ive been able to extend most of the wiring with the dieted wire. Ive been extending with pretty much the exact color wire if not very similar as a result. The supplied additional wire are enough to do pretty much everything needed.
    'Supplied additional wire'? I don't have any in my kit. Oh well, no biggie. I'll see if I can use dieted wire to complete any necessary extensions. Thanks.
    TriguyDave
    818 noobie builder
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  19. #98

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    Yea, there's a spool of "trailer" type 4 wire roll. Approx 25'. Also 2 rolls of blue and purple single wires. All appear to be 12ga

  20. #99
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    Thank you Larry. This is perfect timing. I just finished removing the yellow airbag wiring and am moving down the alphabetical list but I am unsure about some things whether or not to I'll need them or not. Is there a list out there that suggests what I'll need and what I won't?
    Thanks again.

  21. #100
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    Unfortunately us 'Canucks' don't get the spare wire... Or the gas tank, or coil overs, or brake lines, or upper A-Arms, etc. Keeps the local NAPA busy though...

  22. #101
    K3LAG's Avatar
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    I spent several more hours on my wiring harness yesterday and today. Probably close to 10 more hours. I'm probably 80% done. It definitely slows down as you go. I'm doing a good bit of rearranging of the harness, which is the slow part.

    Quite frankly, I'm not sure I would go this route if I had it to do over again. I think I'll probably have close to 60 hours in it by the time I'm done.

    I will have a good result, but with the number of hours I will have in it at my pay rate, I could have bought either Wayne or iWire's solution.

    I plan to work on Part 2 of my process write up this weekend.

    Larry

  23. #102
    Senior Member Xusia's Avatar
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    Maybe. But then you wouldn't have the satisfaction of "conquering" it!
    Have you seen the 818 Registry on Google Maps?? https://www.google.com/maps/ms?msid=...a=0&dg=feature

    Want your 818 added to the Registry? https://docs.google.com/forms/d/1zmF...rNCY4/viewform

  24. #103
    K3LAG's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Xusia View Post
    Maybe. But then you wouldn't have the satisfaction of "conquering" it!
    That is certainly true. My wallet also appreciates it. However, the engineer in me still finds the dieted harness a bit messy. Even dieted it has more wire in it than is needed for the 818. The only way to fix that would be to cut out and shorten a lot of the wires, but that is more work than I'm willing to do at this point. With the harness rearranged the way I did, there is just way more wire than is needed between the ECU and engine. It will all be hidden and fine when done, but it doesn't please the perfectionist in me.

    Once I finish up the 4 part series above, you'll see what I mean.

    Larry

  25. #104
    K3LAG's Avatar
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    Part 2 of my dieting process is now up in post #91

    Larry

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    Quote Originally Posted by K3LAG View Post
    That is certainly true. My wallet also appreciates it. However, the engineer in me still finds the dieted harness a bit messy. Even dieted it has more wire in it than is needed for the 818. The only way to fix that would be to cut out and shorten a lot of the wires, but that is more work than I'm willing to do at this point. With the harness rearranged the way I did, there is just way more wire than is needed between the ECU and engine. It will all be hidden and fine when done, but it doesn't please the perfectionist in me.

    Once I finish up the 4 part series above, you'll see what I mean.

    Larry
    Having done this before with engine swaps... you have a couple choices for shortening them to length. All of them are extremely time consuming.

    When I put an LS1 in my 91 Camaro convertible (back around 2003, before it was as common of a swap) I also had several extremely long runs that needed to be shortened to accommodate my OCD.
    Most of the pins went to either the ECU or a couple other large connectors. I realized that instead of cutting/soldering/heatshrinking each wire (at separate points so its not a big bundle of heatshrink joints)... i could just de-pin the connector, one wire at a time, cut to length, and crimp a new pin on the wire.

    since most of what needed to be shortened was a "run" of a set length, I took one bundle, and shortened them all the same. always just 1 pin/wire at a time though.

    Also, before removing wires, I had a 3 ziptie system.
    I put green zipties on the wires to keep... red on the ones that will be removed, and yellow on the "I dont know, but I need to look this up" ones...
    put the zip ties on REVERSED (aka inside out) so that they do NOT ratchet.. then they hold the wires, but you can add/remove as needed.


    in anycase.. I took out 30 something pounds of wire out. lol.

  27. #106
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    Quote Originally Posted by MrDude_1 View Post
    i could just de-pin the connector, one wire at a time, cut to length, and crimp a new pin on the wire.
    I considered this, but don't have a source for the pins for the Subaru connectors. I found one possible source, but they wanted a ridiculous amount of money for them.

    Larry

  28. #107
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Larry
    take a look at my thread.

    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...l=1#post146406

    I pigtail out each of the connectors and the splice them together at the correct length. Here is a sample schematic of what I ended up with. Each small circle is a splice point. The big circles are terminal post there multiple wires terminate. (see picture of my ecu triangle) The double arrow is a wire going to the front of the car. I eliminated the connector altogether the went through the diver side fender. A good splice is much more reliable than a hand crimped pin in my opinion.




    Bob
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Bob_n_Cincy; 05-13-2014 at 04:18 PM.

  29. #108
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    Bob,
    I like how you did yours. In fact, although my wiring won't be as neat, I plan to copy your triangle idea. I plan to mount the ECU, Fuel Pump relay, Fuel Pump controller, and main relay on a similar plate.

    I could easily go back and do the wiring similar to the way you did at the point I'm at, but I think what I have will be OK. As I mentioned a few posts ago, if I was going to do it again, I'd take a different approach and yours is certainly one I would consider. I probably only have a few hours more work to do to have mine done and since I only work on the car once a week, I'm not currently in the mood to do a bunch more work.

    I don't know how FFR gets these harnesses in without dieting or rearranging them. I didn't try it before I started dieting, but I don't see how some things even reach where they need to go. FFR has you extend some wires, but I think there are others that probably need it as well. If mine all works out the way I plan, I will actually have the main fuse/relay box in the front of the car so the high current carrying headlight and fan wires don't have to be lengthened. Long skinny headlight wires just drops too much voltage for my taste.

    I won't start a crimp vs. soldering debate. They always go on forever. I will say that you should only crimp if you have the ability to do it right and most home mechanics don't. So for most people you are probably right.

    Larry

  30. #109
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Hi Larry,
    I'm only using the main fuse box up front. There are enough fuses and relays in it for everything I want. Here is the first page of my schematic. My fuel tank is up front. Everything orange in in the main fuse box. PS: I only crimp with non-insulated lugs and adhesive lined shrink tubing.
    Bob

    wiring sample3.jpg
    Last edited by Bob_n_Cincy; 05-13-2014 at 05:50 PM.

  31. #110
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    Bob,
    You are evil. Now you have me talking myself into shortening up those wires between the ECU and engine. I think I'll probably stick with the rest of my plan as is though.

    Larry

  32. #111
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by K3LAG View Post
    Bob,
    You are evil. Now you have me talking myself into shortening up those wires between the ECU and engine. I think I'll probably stick with the rest of my plan as is though.

    Larry
    I did all that work inside this winter while it was to cold to work on the car.
    Sorry about being evil.
    Bob

  33. #112
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    I took a break from the wiring harness this weekend.

    I got the brakes and clutch bled. Also, got the engine and tranny all buttoned up and ready for fluids.

    Not much else to report.

  34. #113
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    I finally wrote Part 3 of my wire dieting methodology. It's in post 92 above.

    Larry

  35. #114
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    Vacation Pic

    View from first three nights hotel room. We leave Lucerne tomorrow to go to Interlaken.

    image.jpg

    Larry

  36. #115
    Mechie3's Avatar
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    Reminds me of my inlaws place in Bellevue, WA. I grew up in upstate NY with trees, hills, and water close by. Now I live in flat Indiana, but there's plenty of motorsports around and housing is cheap. I miss the scenery other places, but at least cheap cost of living lets us travel.
    Zero Decibel Motorsports
    Check out my new website!
    www.zerodecibelmotorsports.com
    www.facebook.com/zero.decibel.motorsports

  37. #116
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    View from near our hotel in Interlaken. The snow covered area is Jungfraujoch, if the weather holds we will take the train through the Eiger to there tomorrow.

    Attachment 30060

    Larry

  38. #117
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    Today's picture from Switzerland

    Here is the view from our third hotel. We are now in Brig, half way through our trip.

    image.jpg

    Larry

  39. #118
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    After close to a month not working on the car, we finally got back to work. Last friday we got the electronics panel installed as well as some panels to complete the interior that were needed due to moving the firewall back. The harness is nearly finished and will go in soon.

    IMG_0546.jpg IMG_0544.jpg

    Larry

  40. #119
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    Between sessions down in the garage, I bring home projects to work on at home.

    Here is this weeks project:

    IMG_1276.jpg

    It still needs a little minor filling and sanding before being ready.

    On the rest of the car. Nothing exciting to report. Wiring is about done. Working on details needed to start the engine. The last major thing to do before starting the car is the cooling system.

    Larry

  41. #120
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    so much awesome there

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