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Thread: Frank818 -1993 VW VR6 Turbo donor- Build Thread

  1. #1761
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    YES! It was oil level.

    Check this out, man!



    The engine, although not tuned yet, is very prime when blipping and does not lug or slug whichever word for sluggish and barbels.

    Fuel is more stable than before and easier to adjust. The engine feels light internally.

    I drove around 0.4km (1200ft) and it didn't buck. Also no sign of tik tik tik in rear right wheel and no sign of clutch clik clik clik when hot either. No fumes, no leaks. I had nothing to fix! lolll

    Now I need to get the body on and get on the road.
    I also need to plug the return sprout on the overflow pipe, I fitted a 38-42psi cap but for some reasons it opens up when I shut down the engine when engine hot, so coolant got off the sprout and on the ground. I don't understand, I can't have over 42psi on that coolant system. Will have to plug that damn sprout. I should have fitted a closed pipe while coolant was drained but I chose the "easy" way of buying a high pressure cap (couldn't find a closed cap) that would never open. Supposedly... oh well.

    Gearbox doesn't feel the same, I have almost no play between neutral and 1st, N and R, N and 3rd and N and 5th. Not sure what changed, I was missing 1st gear and R 3 times out of 4. But it does get in, eventually, so I can drive.


    In a couple of weeks...
    Other than that... damn it's ready to prep for road!
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 GT3582R ~400whp/wtq+
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017

    Bulid time, including registration 3283.5h in 148 work week time and 3.5 years elapsed

  2. Likes lsfourwheeler liked this post
  3. #1762
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frank818 View Post
    I also need to plug the return sprout on the overflow pipe, I fitted a 38-42psi cap but for some reasons it opens up when I shut down the engine when engine hot, so coolant got off the sprout and on the ground. I don't understand, I can't have over 42psi on that coolant system. Will have to plug that damn sprout. I should have fitted a closed pipe while coolant was drained but I chose the "easy" way of buying a high pressure cap (couldn't find a closed cap) that would never open. Supposedly... oh well.

    Glad to see it running again. Most cooling systems run 16 to 21 psi. This raises the boiling temp to about 250f. Why is your system running 38-42 PSI?
    818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
    My Son Michael's Turbo ICE Build X22 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rts-818S-Build
    My Electric Supercar Build X21 (on hold until winter) http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-Build-Thread

  4. #1763
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob_n_Cincy View Post
    Glad to see it running again. Most cooling systems run 16 to 21 psi. This raises the boiling temp to about 250f. Why is your system running 38-42 PSI?

    Hey Bob,

    So that's why some racing systems use high pressure, to raise the boiling point. Now I know.


    But I'm asking myself the same question as you, slightly differently. If that cap opened up, then what pressure am I running? My VW expansion tank (not overflow) has a 20-21psi cap.


    I do not need the Subaru overflow tank, which I had previously fitted. The rad cap, which is in a pipiing close to the rad, was opening too soon and coolant was overflowing in the subaru tank, never sucking it back, so every 3-4 runs the tank was full, I had less coolant in my expansion tank, lowering the level under the turbo coolant hose and starting to get under the head top hose.


    To fix this I went the easy way which is the most expensive too, stupid me. I wanted to buy a solid cap that would never open. Pretty simple! Couldn't find one the same size as the hole on the plastic (piping is from Mike Everson), so I bought a racing cap with the highest rating I could find.


    Since my VW tank cap opens up at 20-21, never the Stant 38-42 cap would open, right? That was my understanding.


    The cap opened up after shut down.


    I wonder if this is one of those caps you have to push, twist and lock in 2 steps. I've seend some you push twist and lock once, then you push again further down and twist and lock again. I cannot push it down any further than once, I tried very hard. The piping was starting to twist instead.


    So now I blocked off the little sprout with a small hose fitting with a long bolt with partial threads and nice clamps. Should keep coolant inside but that is not the pretty solution I wanted.


    I should have fitted a free alu piping, still got some in stock. Cut it and fitted it, in place of the cap hole plastic pipe. Free of charge, just 2-3h more work and no fixing oveflowing afterwards. Oh well.

    IMG_20190423_062204.jpg
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 GT3582R ~400whp/wtq+
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017

    Bulid time, including registration 3283.5h in 148 work week time and 3.5 years elapsed

  5. #1764
    Senior Member Canadian818's Avatar
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    Frank I had the same issue, rad cap was 21psi and high point in the rear cap was 13 or 16psi. The front cap would just bleed out coolant and never draw any back in so my level kept dropping. I actually thought it was overheating but it was my temp sensor reading steam since the coolant level was low. I just put a plug the little nipple where coolant bleeds out under the rad cap and now it functions properly and bleeds/draws normally at the rear cap.
    Adam __________________ Instagram @brap818
    818 SRX - #91
    Arrived 01/02/2014
    First Start 10/31/2016
    First Drive 05/22/2017
    My widebody 13b-REW powered build thread

  6. #1765
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frank818 View Post
    But I'm asking myself the same question as you, slightly differently. If that cap opened up, then what pressure am I running? My VW expansion tank (not overflow) has a 20-21psi cap.

    Bob's rules of physics. Pressure is close to the same everywhere in the cooling system. I use the word "close" as the output side of the pump is higher the input side. Also, the pressure is higher at the bottom because of head pressure.


    In your case, I don't think you front 38-42 psi cap is sealing properly.
    Bob
    818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
    My Son Michael's Turbo ICE Build X22 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rts-818S-Build
    My Electric Supercar Build X21 (on hold until winter) http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-Build-Thread

  7. #1766
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob_n_Cincy View Post
    I don't think you front 38-42 psi cap is sealing properly.
    I don't either. I think it's a cap you need to push-twist and lock twice, but I cannot, it doesn't push neither twist at all after one PT'nL. Anyway, we'll see how blocking off the nipple will work.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 GT3582R ~400whp/wtq+
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017

    Bulid time, including registration 3283.5h in 148 work week time and 3.5 years elapsed

  8. #1767
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Did you guys know the 90's McLaren F1 was using Corrado mirrors? You can see that in Jay Leno's review of the F1 but here are some pix comparison:

    Corrado.jpegMcLarenF1.jpeg
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 GT3582R ~400whp/wtq+
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017

    Bulid time, including registration 3283.5h in 148 work week time and 3.5 years elapsed

  9. #1768
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 GT3582R ~400whp/wtq+
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017

    Bulid time, including registration 3283.5h in 148 work week time and 3.5 years elapsed

  10. #1769
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    2019-05-03 06.43.08.jpg2019-05-03 06.43.14.jpg2019-05-03 06.43.40.jpg


    So tight I needed to cut the washer and make sure the bolt was lined up with the alu panel.

    2019-05-03 06.49.51.jpg
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 GT3582R ~400whp/wtq+
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017

    Bulid time, including registration 3283.5h in 148 work week time and 3.5 years elapsed

  11. #1770
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Corner weights time!!!!

    2019-05-11 06.22.06.jpg2019-05-11 06.22.16.jpg

    It's a bit unstable, I adjust the spring a little and then I'm at 49.9% cross, I adjust back, 50.1%, I jump my behind in the seat and I hit 50.2%. So I decided to leave it like this.

    Heavy car, heavy drivetrain! More traction? Let's hope so.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 GT3582R ~400whp/wtq+
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017

    Bulid time, including registration 3283.5h in 148 work week time and 3.5 years elapsed

  12. #1771
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 GT3582R ~400whp/wtq+
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017

    Bulid time, including registration 3283.5h in 148 work week time and 3.5 years elapsed

  13. Likes DSR-3 liked this post
  14. #1772
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 GT3582R ~400whp/wtq+
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017

    Bulid time, including registration 3283.5h in 148 work week time and 3.5 years elapsed

  15. Likes DSR-3, Rob T liked this post
  16. #1773

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    Looks awesome. Love the side scoops and the mud flaps. Gonna steal that idea

  17. #1774
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    Great looking car!!! Nice job!!

  18. #1775
    Senior Member q4stix's Avatar
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    It's looking great! Glad to see it finally back together and just in time for spring!
    Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe builder

  19. #1776
    Senior Member AZPete's Avatar
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    Looks beautiful! I like all the detail with blue in the steering wheel, the 2-piece dash, e-brake handle and more. Very nicely done, again. Is your weather getting warm enough to take it out?
    818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities.
    Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).

  20. #1777
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    We are stuck at 12C-16C for weeks now, usually it's around 18-20C at this time, but sun is hot so on sunny days it'd be just perfect. My hope is this coming w-e. Crossing fingers nothing major will force me from dismantling parts again and wasting weeks working on the issues.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 GT3582R ~400whp/wtq+
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017

    Bulid time, including registration 3283.5h in 148 work week time and 3.5 years elapsed

  21. #1778

    Yes, I love Technology
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    Looks great - thanks for all the pics and details.
    Art Quillen

  22. #1779
    Harley818's Avatar
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    Nice work Frank. Your patience is amazing. Good luck and hope its a good season for you.
    Harley
    Bought 2002 Donor Jan 2014
    First Start Jan 18, 2015
    First Drive Feb 14, 2015

  23. #1780
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kurk818 View Post
    and the mud flaps. Gonna steal that idea
    Actually I stole it myself from someone, I think it was Harley...
    Pretty quick to design by re-using an unused alu sheet from FFR. I got very lucky I used one that already had the edge slightly bent on the width to give it that curve at the bottom.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 GT3582R ~400whp/wtq+
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017

    Bulid time, including registration 3283.5h in 148 work week time and 3.5 years elapsed

  24. #1781
    Senior Member Pearldrummer7's Avatar
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    Damn, those mudflaps are nice. You have such an awesome looking car, Frank!
    Frank - Build thread

  25. #1782
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Went for a spin this morning, finally!


    Did only 2 miles. You'll see why later.


    Good news are multiple.


    - Suspension is in working condition. Stiff, but driveable, not my concern anymore at the moment. I think 375 in the back instead of 400 and 325 up front would be better, but having 400 in the back prevents the tires from rubbing the rear splash guards on compression, even though I have 1 finger clearance between tire and fender edge.
    - No noticeable bumpsteer! Did not try on highway but around the block and holes, cracks and bumps it was fine. Time will tell.
    - Acceleration is pretty quick for an engine not yet tuned. Engine sound under slow accel is not one of the best around but if you press on it a bit more it's a lot better! Impressed by its quickness so far.
    - No startup issues, no stalls.
    - Electric fan I put above the turbo DOES extract hot air from the engine bay through Craig's humps louvers when I shut down the engine.
    - Alignment seems fine, the best I can do manually before I get it laser aligned, feels like a normal car alignment.
    - Nothing fell on the ground or disconnected!
    - No dust and gravel around the doors.
    - No clutch noise.
    - No wheel bearing noise.
    - Exhaust smell is very minimal! Couldn't smell any while driving around the block.
    - My inner CV boots don't seem to rub on the inner CV metal cup, which means even though the clearance is 1-2mm, it's sufficient in most driving conditions, I believe. Time will tell.



    So following all this it means the car IS driveable. Why did I stop after 2 miles?



    What I feared the most happened:

    2019-05-18 09.44.11.jpg2019-05-18 09.44.17.jpg2019-05-18 09.44.28.jpg2019-05-18 09.44.38.jpg2019-05-18 09.50.58.jpg2019-05-18 09.51.07.jpg2019-05-18 09.51.19.jpg2019-05-18 10.41.51.jpg2019-05-18 14.13.25.jpg





    The ****ing rad cap again! 4th time it pisses on me, this little tabarnak! The cap was loose!!! It was hardly in place before and now it wobbles in all directions. Somehow, the pressure loosened the cap and it poured all around it while driving.


    I lost so much coolant my in-dash low level warning light flashed. At least it's working.


    It splashed everywhere up front. I even have coolant inside the front wheels and along side the side pod, inside the pods. I am not removing the side pods, too bad.
    I have to remove most alu panels up front, the splitter again as it's filled up with coolant and... and so many other things.


    Good news is the mud flaps did their job, they have coolant on them and prevented from splashing under the side pods, outside.



    Then I have to find a way to fix that damn cap, but I am out of ideas.
    Replace the rad cap hole hose by a solid pipe without cap hole? Maybe, but I am unsure how to fill up coolant in the rad, then. My thermostat is closed, the VW expansion tank is connected to the closed circuit, not the open circuit.





    I understand now why I have so many problems on this build. I am a good show car builder, but a very bad road car builder...
    Last edited by Frank818; 05-18-2019 at 06:43 PM.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 GT3582R ~400whp/wtq+
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017

    Bulid time, including registration 3283.5h in 148 work week time and 3.5 years elapsed

  26. #1783
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Good ol' Bob was right yet again when he said, and I quote "It's not sealed properly you MF". lolll
    I knew something was wrong with the cap but didn't think it was not sealed AT ALL!

    2019-05-19 18.07.21_1.jpg

    I found the double twist and lock thing. The problem was related to the metal notches on either side of the cap, noted by the red top arrow. Those notches were too tight so when I was twisting and locking they were following the green line but couldn't go further than the bottom red arrow. Cuz it couldn't push down enough to let the plastic notch pass between the metal notch and top of cap.

    So I took a big flat head screwdriver and pryed (pried? Pry in past tense) just a little those metal notches. Now when I push down the second time it goes under the plastic notch and twists further in! The plastic notch will prevent the cap from unscrewing. Yesterday it unscrewed by pressure cuz there wasn't any plastic notch to keep it in place.

    100% my mistake. Which confirms how bad a road car builder I am.


    Make sure your rad cap is Bob sealed!!!
    You ain't want a coolant mess up front the 818...
    Last edited by Frank818; Yesterday at 06:59 PM.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 GT3582R ~400whp/wtq+
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017

    Bulid time, including registration 3283.5h in 148 work week time and 3.5 years elapsed

  27. #1784
    Senior Member AZPete's Avatar
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    Whew, I'm glad it was just a simple fix. you deserve it. Now, out for a longer drive?
    818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities.
    Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).

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