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Thread: Frank818 -1993 VW VR6 Turbo donor- Build Thread

  1. #1761
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    YES! It was oil level.

    Check this out, man!



    The engine, although not tuned yet, is very prime when blipping and does not lug or slug whichever word for sluggish and barbels.

    Fuel is more stable than before and easier to adjust. The engine feels light internally.

    I drove around 0.4km (1200ft) and it didn't buck. Also no sign of tik tik tik in rear right wheel and no sign of clutch clik clik clik when hot either. No fumes, no leaks. I had nothing to fix! lolll

    Now I need to get the body on and get on the road.
    I also need to plug the return sprout on the overflow pipe, I fitted a 38-42psi cap but for some reasons it opens up when I shut down the engine when engine hot, so coolant got off the sprout and on the ground. I don't understand, I can't have over 42psi on that coolant system. Will have to plug that damn sprout. I should have fitted a closed pipe while coolant was drained but I chose the "easy" way of buying a high pressure cap (couldn't find a closed cap) that would never open. Supposedly... oh well.

    Gearbox doesn't feel the same, I have almost no play between neutral and 1st, N and R, N and 3rd and N and 5th. Not sure what changed, I was missing 1st gear and R 3 times out of 4. But it does get in, eventually, so I can drive.


    In a couple of weeks...
    Other than that... damn it's ready to prep for road!
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 GT3582R ~400whp/wtq+
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017

    Bulid time, including registration 3283.5h in 148 work week time and 3.5 years elapsed

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  3. #1762
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frank818 View Post
    I also need to plug the return sprout on the overflow pipe, I fitted a 38-42psi cap but for some reasons it opens up when I shut down the engine when engine hot, so coolant got off the sprout and on the ground. I don't understand, I can't have over 42psi on that coolant system. Will have to plug that damn sprout. I should have fitted a closed pipe while coolant was drained but I chose the "easy" way of buying a high pressure cap (couldn't find a closed cap) that would never open. Supposedly... oh well.

    Glad to see it running again. Most cooling systems run 16 to 21 psi. This raises the boiling temp to about 250f. Why is your system running 38-42 PSI?
    818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
    My Son Michael's Turbo ICE Build X22 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rts-818S-Build
    My Electric Supercar Build X21 (on hold until winter) http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-Build-Thread

  4. #1763
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob_n_Cincy View Post
    Glad to see it running again. Most cooling systems run 16 to 21 psi. This raises the boiling temp to about 250f. Why is your system running 38-42 PSI?

    Hey Bob,

    So that's why some racing systems use high pressure, to raise the boiling point. Now I know.


    But I'm asking myself the same question as you, slightly differently. If that cap opened up, then what pressure am I running? My VW expansion tank (not overflow) has a 20-21psi cap.


    I do not need the Subaru overflow tank, which I had previously fitted. The rad cap, which is in a pipiing close to the rad, was opening too soon and coolant was overflowing in the subaru tank, never sucking it back, so every 3-4 runs the tank was full, I had less coolant in my expansion tank, lowering the level under the turbo coolant hose and starting to get under the head top hose.


    To fix this I went the easy way which is the most expensive too, stupid me. I wanted to buy a solid cap that would never open. Pretty simple! Couldn't find one the same size as the hole on the plastic (piping is from Mike Everson), so I bought a racing cap with the highest rating I could find.


    Since my VW tank cap opens up at 20-21, never the Stant 38-42 cap would open, right? That was my understanding.


    The cap opened up after shut down.


    I wonder if this is one of those caps you have to push, twist and lock in 2 steps. I've seend some you push twist and lock once, then you push again further down and twist and lock again. I cannot push it down any further than once, I tried very hard. The piping was starting to twist instead.


    So now I blocked off the little sprout with a small hose fitting with a long bolt with partial threads and nice clamps. Should keep coolant inside but that is not the pretty solution I wanted.


    I should have fitted a free alu piping, still got some in stock. Cut it and fitted it, in place of the cap hole plastic pipe. Free of charge, just 2-3h more work and no fixing oveflowing afterwards. Oh well.

    IMG_20190423_062204.jpg
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 GT3582R ~400whp/wtq+
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017

    Bulid time, including registration 3283.5h in 148 work week time and 3.5 years elapsed

  5. #1764
    Senior Member Canadian818's Avatar
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    Frank I had the same issue, rad cap was 21psi and high point in the rear cap was 13 or 16psi. The front cap would just bleed out coolant and never draw any back in so my level kept dropping. I actually thought it was overheating but it was my temp sensor reading steam since the coolant level was low. I just put a plug the little nipple where coolant bleeds out under the rad cap and now it functions properly and bleeds/draws normally at the rear cap.
    Adam __________________ Instagram @brap818
    818 SRX - #91
    Arrived 01/02/2014
    First Start 10/31/2016
    First Drive 05/22/2017
    My widebody 13b-REW powered build thread

  6. #1765
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frank818 View Post
    But I'm asking myself the same question as you, slightly differently. If that cap opened up, then what pressure am I running? My VW expansion tank (not overflow) has a 20-21psi cap.

    Bob's rules of physics. Pressure is close to the same everywhere in the cooling system. I use the word "close" as the output side of the pump is higher the input side. Also, the pressure is higher at the bottom because of head pressure.


    In your case, I don't think you front 38-42 psi cap is sealing properly.
    Bob
    818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
    My Son Michael's Turbo ICE Build X22 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rts-818S-Build
    My Electric Supercar Build X21 (on hold until winter) http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-Build-Thread

  7. #1766
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob_n_Cincy View Post
    I don't think you front 38-42 psi cap is sealing properly.
    I don't either. I think it's a cap you need to push-twist and lock twice, but I cannot, it doesn't push neither twist at all after one PT'nL. Anyway, we'll see how blocking off the nipple will work.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 GT3582R ~400whp/wtq+
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017

    Bulid time, including registration 3283.5h in 148 work week time and 3.5 years elapsed

  8. #1767
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Did you guys know the 90's McLaren F1 was using Corrado mirrors? You can see that in Jay Leno's review of the F1 but here are some pix comparison:

    Corrado.jpegMcLarenF1.jpeg
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 GT3582R ~400whp/wtq+
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017

    Bulid time, including registration 3283.5h in 148 work week time and 3.5 years elapsed

  9. #1768
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 GT3582R ~400whp/wtq+
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017

    Bulid time, including registration 3283.5h in 148 work week time and 3.5 years elapsed

  10. #1769
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    2019-05-03 06.43.08.jpg2019-05-03 06.43.14.jpg2019-05-03 06.43.40.jpg


    So tight I needed to cut the washer and make sure the bolt was lined up with the alu panel.

    2019-05-03 06.49.51.jpg
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 GT3582R ~400whp/wtq+
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017

    Bulid time, including registration 3283.5h in 148 work week time and 3.5 years elapsed

  11. #1770
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Corner weights time!!!!

    2019-05-11 06.22.06.jpg2019-05-11 06.22.16.jpg

    It's a bit unstable, I adjust the spring a little and then I'm at 49.9% cross, I adjust back, 50.1%, I jump my behind in the seat and I hit 50.2%. So I decided to leave it like this.

    Heavy car, heavy drivetrain! More traction? Let's hope so.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 GT3582R ~400whp/wtq+
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017

    Bulid time, including registration 3283.5h in 148 work week time and 3.5 years elapsed

  12. #1771
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 GT3582R ~400whp/wtq+
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017

    Bulid time, including registration 3283.5h in 148 work week time and 3.5 years elapsed

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  14. #1772
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 GT3582R ~400whp/wtq+
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017

    Bulid time, including registration 3283.5h in 148 work week time and 3.5 years elapsed

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  16. #1773

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    Looks awesome. Love the side scoops and the mud flaps. Gonna steal that idea

  17. #1774
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    Great looking car!!! Nice job!!

  18. #1775
    Senior Member q4stix's Avatar
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    It's looking great! Glad to see it finally back together and just in time for spring!
    Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe builder

  19. #1776
    Senior Member AZPete's Avatar
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    Looks beautiful! I like all the detail with blue in the steering wheel, the 2-piece dash, e-brake handle and more. Very nicely done, again. Is your weather getting warm enough to take it out?
    818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities.
    Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).

  20. #1777
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    We are stuck at 12C-16C for weeks now, usually it's around 18-20C at this time, but sun is hot so on sunny days it'd be just perfect. My hope is this coming w-e. Crossing fingers nothing major will force me from dismantling parts again and wasting weeks working on the issues.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 GT3582R ~400whp/wtq+
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017

    Bulid time, including registration 3283.5h in 148 work week time and 3.5 years elapsed

  21. #1778

    Yes, I love Technology
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    Looks great - thanks for all the pics and details.
    Art Quillen

  22. #1779
    Harley818's Avatar
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    Nice work Frank. Your patience is amazing. Good luck and hope its a good season for you.
    Harley
    Bought 2002 Donor Jan 2014
    First Start Jan 18, 2015
    First Drive Feb 14, 2015

  23. #1780
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kurk818 View Post
    and the mud flaps. Gonna steal that idea
    Actually I stole it myself from someone, I think it was Harley...
    Pretty quick to design by re-using an unused alu sheet from FFR. I got very lucky I used one that already had the edge slightly bent on the width to give it that curve at the bottom.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 GT3582R ~400whp/wtq+
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017

    Bulid time, including registration 3283.5h in 148 work week time and 3.5 years elapsed

  24. #1781
    Senior Member Pearldrummer7's Avatar
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    Damn, those mudflaps are nice. You have such an awesome looking car, Frank!
    Frank - Build thread

  25. #1782
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Went for a spin this morning, finally!


    Did only 2 miles. You'll see why later.


    Good news are multiple.


    - Suspension is in working condition. Stiff, but driveable, not my concern anymore at the moment. I think 375 in the back instead of 400 and 325 up front would be better, but having 400 in the back prevents the tires from rubbing the rear splash guards on compression, even though I have 1 finger clearance between tire and fender edge.
    - No noticeable bumpsteer! Did not try on highway but around the block and holes, cracks and bumps it was fine. Time will tell.
    - Acceleration is pretty quick for an engine not yet tuned. Engine sound under slow accel is not one of the best around but if you press on it a bit more it's a lot better! Impressed by its quickness so far.
    - No startup issues, no stalls.
    - Electric fan I put above the turbo DOES extract hot air from the engine bay through Craig's humps louvers when I shut down the engine.
    - Alignment seems fine, the best I can do manually before I get it laser aligned, feels like a normal car alignment.
    - Nothing fell on the ground or disconnected!
    - No dust and gravel around the doors.
    - No clutch noise.
    - No wheel bearing noise.
    - Exhaust smell is very minimal! Couldn't smell any while driving around the block.
    - My inner CV boots don't seem to rub on the inner CV metal cup, which means even though the clearance is 1-2mm, it's sufficient in most driving conditions, I believe. Time will tell.



    So following all this it means the car IS driveable. Why did I stop after 2 miles?



    What I feared the most happened:

    2019-05-18 09.44.11.jpg2019-05-18 09.44.17.jpg2019-05-18 09.44.28.jpg2019-05-18 09.44.38.jpg2019-05-18 09.50.58.jpg2019-05-18 09.51.07.jpg2019-05-18 09.51.19.jpg2019-05-18 10.41.51.jpg2019-05-18 14.13.25.jpg





    The ****ing rad cap again! 4th time it pisses on me, this little tabarnak! The cap was loose!!! It was hardly in place before and now it wobbles in all directions. Somehow, the pressure loosened the cap and it poured all around it while driving.


    I lost so much coolant my in-dash low level warning light flashed. At least it's working.


    It splashed everywhere up front. I even have coolant inside the front wheels and along side the side pod, inside the pods. I am not removing the side pods, too bad.
    I have to remove most alu panels up front, the splitter again as it's filled up with coolant and... and so many other things.


    Good news is the mud flaps did their job, they have coolant on them and prevented from splashing under the side pods, outside.



    Then I have to find a way to fix that damn cap, but I am out of ideas.
    Replace the rad cap hole hose by a solid pipe without cap hole? Maybe, but I am unsure how to fill up coolant in the rad, then. My thermostat is closed, the VW expansion tank is connected to the closed circuit, not the open circuit.





    I understand now why I have so many problems on this build. I am a good show car builder, but a very bad road car builder...
    Last edited by Frank818; 05-18-2019 at 06:43 PM.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 GT3582R ~400whp/wtq+
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017

    Bulid time, including registration 3283.5h in 148 work week time and 3.5 years elapsed

  26. #1783
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Good ol' Bob was right yet again when he said, and I quote "It's not sealed properly you MF". lolll
    I knew something was wrong with the cap but didn't think it was not sealed AT ALL!

    2019-05-19 18.07.21_1.jpg

    I found the double twist and lock thing. The problem was related to the metal notches on either side of the cap, noted by the red top arrow. Those notches were too tight so when I was twisting and locking they were following the green line but couldn't go further than the bottom red arrow. Cuz it couldn't push down enough to let the plastic notch pass between the metal notch and top of cap.

    So I took a big flat head screwdriver and pryed (pried? Pry in past tense) just a little those metal notches. Now when I push down the second time it goes under the plastic notch and twists further in! The plastic notch will prevent the cap from unscrewing. Yesterday it unscrewed by pressure cuz there wasn't any plastic notch to keep it in place.

    100% my mistake. Which confirms how bad a road car builder I am.


    Make sure your rad cap is Bob sealed!!!
    You ain't want a coolant mess up front the 818...
    Last edited by Frank818; 05-19-2019 at 06:59 PM.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 GT3582R ~400whp/wtq+
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017

    Bulid time, including registration 3283.5h in 148 work week time and 3.5 years elapsed

  27. #1784
    Senior Member AZPete's Avatar
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    Whew, I'm glad it was just a simple fix. you deserve it. Now, out for a longer drive?
    818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities.
    Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).

  28. #1785
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AZPete View Post
    Whew, I'm glad it was just a simple fix. you deserve it. Now, out for a longer drive?
    Won't seal as far as I thought compared to the plastic notch, I cannot go over that notch for basic reasons I cannot explain well without pictures, but I made it tighter and I thought of 2 ways to secure it in place as much as possible.
    So it's ready for a longer drive assuming it won't pop again. Unfortunately, job and weather are not much aligned at the moment (I don't live in the Mojave desert like you), so my target is Sunday and if I take Monday off to celebrate the day off with you guys, Monday looks promising too.

    Curiously when I filled it up with coolant it filled up the rad as well! Although my thermostat is closed. So either I did something wrong many years ago and plugged hoses in the wrong thermostat housing holes, or VW designed the thermostat housing to be that way. No worries worst case it makes the engine warm up slower but so far it didn't seem out of the ordinary.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 GT3582R ~400whp/wtq+
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017

    Bulid time, including registration 3283.5h in 148 work week time and 3.5 years elapsed

  29. #1786
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Some people here are like me and also love powerful electric drivetrains (cars or bikes, right Bob? ). I've always been a huge fan of Rimac's out of the box thinking to be one of if not the leader in terms of powerful electric motors and batteries. Here's one for you:

    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 GT3582R ~400whp/wtq+
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017

    Bulid time, including registration 3283.5h in 148 work week time and 3.5 years elapsed

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  31. #1787
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frank818 View Post
    cars or bikes, right Bob?
    Last week I was working on putting a modern electric powertrain in a 70+ year old car. I will post a video when it's done with owners permission. Don't forget I've also done electric boats and trucks.
    riverwalk.jpg balqon_electrictruck.jpg

    Bob
    Last edited by Bob_n_Cincy; 05-23-2019 at 11:31 PM.
    818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
    My Son Michael's Turbo ICE Build X22 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rts-818S-Build
    My Electric Supercar Build X21 (on hold until winter) http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-Build-Thread

  32. #1788
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Looks cool Bob! I should have gone electric on the 818... see next post.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 GT3582R ~400whp/wtq+
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017

    Bulid time, including registration 3283.5h in 148 work week time and 3.5 years elapsed

  33. #1789
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    This time the rad cap is staying in place.
    However one of my rear coolant hose, right above the exhaust, blew up. 5 sec before I shut down the engine in my garage, that is the only relief! I heard a POP and then I saw thick white smoke coming out of my rear hump louver cuz the fan is pushing out air through the louver and all of the coolant was pouring on the hot exhaust.

    Stupid hose popped. It was fine for over 120km and then pop! The pink thing around the hose is a pink rag to hold it angled upwards.

    2019-05-27 09.34.25.jpg2019-05-27 10.54.51.jpg


    If anyone wants to buy the car at a decent price I'm willing to sell. 50 to 200h to make it reliable and it would be a blast to drive, capable of 600bhp if tuned properly.
    I might part it out too, cuz the newly rebuilt engine and G50 box are worth a huge chunk.

    In the meantime I'll repair it and we'll see what comes up first: me driving again the car but without issues for the 1st time, or selling it.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 GT3582R ~400whp/wtq+
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017

    Bulid time, including registration 3283.5h in 148 work week time and 3.5 years elapsed

  34. #1790
    Senior Member AZPete's Avatar
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    Frank, step away from it for a few days. It's just a hose - easy to replace. Vodka helps.
    818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities.
    Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).

  35. #1791
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AZPete View Post
    It's just a hose - easy to replace.
    Normally yes. This one is particular.

    I have a bad setup (remember what I said about being a bad road car builder), it's a T-fitting with a 3/4 hose on top, 3/4 on the bottom right and 20 or 21mm on the bottom left.
    3/4 = 19mm.
    The bottom left is 1-2mm larger and I couldn't find a t-fitting that is 3/4-3/4-20/21mm. So I put some high temp tape to enlarge the barb fitting, 3-4 years ago. But pressure made it slip away, probably cuz it wasn't tight enough and some coolant slipped through between the hose and barb, lubricating the space more. Don't know.

    All I know is the t-fitting is not the correct size and I pushed the installation anyway.

    Now trying to use some aeroquip barb fitting push-on, correct sizes, and one size t-fitting screw-on (threads). But then again I have a hard time finding the right fittings.


    My problem is only a problem of fitting sizes! That's so stupid.

    Any advice on the right solution here would be awesome. I can take better pictures of the area if required.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 GT3582R ~400whp/wtq+
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017

    Bulid time, including registration 3283.5h in 148 work week time and 3.5 years elapsed

  36. #1792
    Senior Member DSR-3's Avatar
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    Sorry to hear about the challenges, and not to kick you while down, but that was not a great idea... I suggest that you sketch the perfect fitting/solution and find a way to have it made. I have at least 2 custom fittings in my system. I typically buy the parts/materials and do all the fab work and have a skilled welder do it right. There are also reducing hoses both straight and elbow.
    Good luck, don't give up!
    818S #332, EZ30R H6, California licensed 01/2019

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  38. #1793
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DSR-3 View Post
    that was not a great idea...
    Precisely my point.
    Which means, for anyone reading this, if you are somewhat unsure of your solution, or you needed to cheat to make it work, undo everything and redo it differently, cuz it's not normal to not have confidence on the end result. If you are asking yourself "is this going to last?", redo the solution. 8 times out of 10 I've asked myself that question things blew up on me.


    Quote Originally Posted by DSR-3 View Post
    I suggest that you sketch the perfect fitting/solution and find a way to have it made.
    I ordered a straight reducer 20mm to 18mm. Seems on barb fittings with a hose ID of x the correct size fitting is x-1. So 21mm-1=20. And 19mm-1=18. I test fitted the fittings I have with 20mm and 18mm (they are not reducers) and it worked perfectly.

    I am limited on the length cuz my hose makes an elbow pretty quickly, but it's 75mm long and I take an absolute max of 82mm. Should be ok! I'm adding 2 extra clamps to the solution, 2 potential point of failures, but with the perfect fittings and clamps that should not happen anyway.

    Need to wait 3 weeks for shipping, ordered from UK. Usually faster than that, maybe I'll get lucky.


    I guess during those 3 weeks I'll take some vodka and get to bed later so I don't need to wake up at 4h30 7 days a week to work on the car. Correct, Pete?
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 GT3582R ~400whp/wtq+
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017

    Bulid time, including registration 3283.5h in 148 work week time and 3.5 years elapsed

  39. #1794
    Senior Member svanlare's Avatar
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    I feel your pain here.

    I realized working on this project that I dislike plumbing on a car just as much as I dislike it under the sink. In the month before I drove round trip to LA, I think I had the coolant system apart 6 times or more. Nothing like inspiring confidence before my first big drive. I feel like every single joint leaked or I couldn't get the system bleed right and it kept overheating.

    These things saved me. "power grip clamps" that I shrink wrapped at first on the hard to get to spots, later I got them all. That and Vodka. Hang in there.
    Power Grip.png
    -Steve

  40. #1795
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Thanks Steve, that does help to know I'm not the only one. If I knew about those heatshrink clamps before I'd use them.

    My fitting is due around June 20, 1 month for shipping from UK, that means someone is delivering on a kayak for sure but anyway... The good news is the engine seems to work so well and burn fuel SO MUCH better than the setup I had before. That's what I have to focus on.

    However, maybe I should have gone electric still!! 5 years ago it wasn't as evolved as it is now, so starting my project now I'd freakin seriously consider electric. Lots of electricity, at least 400wtq.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 GT3582R ~400whp/wtq+
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017

    Bulid time, including registration 3283.5h in 148 work week time and 3.5 years elapsed

  41. #1796
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Koenigsegg... these guys have RE-invented the wheel for many car parts already... And they did it again with this awesome gearbox, who would have thought of such an out of the box design but them...

    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 GT3582R ~400whp/wtq+
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017

    Bulid time, including registration 3283.5h in 148 work week time and 3.5 years elapsed

  42. Thanks AZPete thanked for this post
  43. #1797
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    I'm exhausted of this project, but still moving fwd.

    Since my UK ebay guy hasn't delivered in 3 weeks (FedEx Swim service I guess), I turned around. I don't know why but I didn't think about this solution 3 weeks ago and then when txting with the other 818 in QC I did it.

    Got myself a custom fitting machined. Turns out he's got a couple of machines, computer ones and manual ones. Alu 6061 SUPER light fitting, I've never had such a light fitting, I feel great now that I removed a couple of ounces from the car... and added a few more by using more clamps. loll

    2019-06-22 16.52.31.jpg2019-06-22 16.54.01.jpg2019-06-22 17.13.01.jpg2019-06-22 17.23.36.jpg2019-06-22 17.37.44.jpg



    Check out the thin wall on the smaller end. Still very strong and since coolant pressure will push out while clamps are crushing in, it shouldn't blow up.
    As you can notice the inside diameter (ID) is the same all across, not reducing like you usually get.

    2019-06-23 18.16.57.jpg2019-06-23 18.17.03.jpg2019-06-23 18.17.10.jpg

    Cost? 10 to 15 times more expensive than ebay but exactly my specs and I could have had it the next day my old fitting popped out. Took me 1h to drive to his home, 1h to machine and 1h to drive back. I got to see his race 818, he came back from work with it. Totally different goal than mine.

    So now the car is back up in ONE piece, however I finished it too late today to get it out for tuning. It's not a drive, it's a tune, I need to watch every single thing that happens on the car, at the same time. Hard for the brain since it's not an ECU.

    I'll try to take a sunny day off this week or next w-e is another 3-day w-e here so there should be at least one day without rain. This 3-day w-e was all without rain, but car wasn't ready.



    What's your gamble for the next issue?
    Last edited by Frank818; 06-24-2019 at 06:07 PM.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 GT3582R ~400whp/wtq+
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017

    Bulid time, including registration 3283.5h in 148 work week time and 3.5 years elapsed

  44. #1798

    Yes, I love Technology
    aquillen's Avatar
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    Let's pretend everything will go great from here on. I don't believe in optimism much but worth a try
    Art Quillen

  45. #1799
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    It's dead.

    This time the engine broke. I was able to run the engine for about 1h, all went fine! I drove 4km, my longest distance so far.

    Then I came back in driveway, lifted the rear engine cover for the 7th or 8th time during the run to check everything's ok. While I was checking the engine was idling of course and then all of a sudden CLING CLING CLING CLING! No warning.

    I saw the AFRs in the high 9s-low 10s and I shut it down after maybe 5sec of clinging.

    I was able alone to get the car down the driveway and up the garage, was very hard by turning the wheels with my hands on the rims' spokes. I tried to start it up again, a quarter of a turn, and it felt like a very low voltage battery with pistons seizing up.

    I'll remove the plugs if I can see anything there, but everything external to the engine seems ok at the moment. I didn't check around the clutch yet.

    Have no idea what that could be!!!

    But if I need to get the engine out and dismantled again, it's the end for a 3rd year in a row. Didn't seem something easy to fix or without damaging the internals, though.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 GT3582R ~400whp/wtq+
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017

    Bulid time, including registration 3283.5h in 148 work week time and 3.5 years elapsed

  46. #1800
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Wow my fuel pressure was at 92psi! That's 6.3bar... usually it's at 60-66psi. Good thing those injectors support up to 10bar. I don't know how long it was at 92psi and whether that is or not a problem. I saw that either before the engine issue or at the engine issue when I press the stop button, can't recall. Something to remember next time, if there is a next time.



    My ECU log showed that when the issue happened, my MAP values started to rise from 40kpa (normal idle) up to 90-95 (WOT on an NA engine). Something increased pressure in the intake manifold, which yields me to a valve problem. This explains the 9-10AFR I had, 90-95kpa MAP injects a lot more fuel.



    If the problem was in the short block, the engine would have stopped turning and mostly my oil pressure would have dropped, which it didn't. The engine turned hardly cuz there was way too much fuel due to high MAP.





    Anyway here's my troubleshooting plan:


    - Remove cam cover to press every valve lifter with a screwdriver to see if they have the same tension. Maybe a spring broke or some other part.
    - Try to turn the engine by hand and if it works see if it blocks somewhere, if it doesn't, find TDC and ensure everything is still aligned normally.
    - If all is right move to short block, remove oil filter, pour oil into a paper screen and see if any metal parts are accumulating on the paper.
    - If all is good there too, move to gearbox, around the flywheel and clutch. Not there yet.
    - If all is goof on gearbox, go back to head and remove many parts to look into the manifold and they remove the head altogether.


    Looks like a lot of fun, damn it.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 GT3582R ~400whp/wtq+
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017

    Bulid time, including registration 3283.5h in 148 work week time and 3.5 years elapsed

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