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Thread: Frank818 -1993 VW VR6 Turbo donor- Build Thread

  1. #2001
    Senior Member AZPete's Avatar
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    Yes, it's good to hear you are driving, with a smile! But, be careful. These lightweight, short wheelbase, high power toys can hurt you.
    818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities.
    Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).

  2. #2002
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    So many surprises to share!
    I'll make 1 post per subject so you guys can focus on the ones you prefer.


    ANOTHER FUEL PUMP issue

    Believe or not, I won the Power Ball for a 3 time in a few weeks!
    And believe it or not, when the car stalled I was... right in front of my garage door!! This is the 3rd time with these 3 fuel pump issues I am in front my door. How improbable.

    Speaking of which, check out what failed this time:

    2019-10-19 09.18.34.jpg

    The hose popped!
    Cause: too short hose and clamp not tight enough.

    I am now using a hose the full length, it cannot pop even without clamps. I tightened the clamps a lot more. Back in tank, car ready for tomorrow's drive.

    I checked the electrical mod I did. All seems fine electrically speaking. But the sealant I used, from Permatex, inside the tank to cover the brass screws, is all gone! What a crap that sealant. I am very happy Jet sent me some powerful aerospace sealant, I will have to redo all the places where I put sealant, cuz it seems with time fuel will eat it up.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 GT3582R one-time dyno target 500whp/wtq+
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Bulid time before being driveable: over 5000h
    Driveable since Sep 27th 2019!

  3. #2003
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    FLETCH CAME BY

    Yes, the lucky who got Bob's red chassis, now in NM, spent the whole afternoon yesterday with his wife in my garage and driving around.

    Here's finally a video of my car from outside while I drive (kinda hard to record when you're alone loll):



    It was cold (9C-48F), overcast, windy and humid. But once the car warmed up, it was ok inside the cockpit! Definitely I can drive this car until temps are too low for the tires. Without the need of my heated seats! I implemented that solution for nothing. loll
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 GT3582R one-time dyno target 500whp/wtq+
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Bulid time before being driveable: over 5000h
    Driveable since Sep 27th 2019!

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  5. #2004
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    A BIT OF THE METALLIC RATTLE

    The damn metallica rattle, I mean metallic rattle, is still there and sometimes could be heard so loud. We didn't catch those moments on video though, but on this one you can hear it a little bit. It's too bad the video sound doesn't give it justice.

    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 GT3582R one-time dyno target 500whp/wtq+
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Bulid time before being driveable: over 5000h
    Driveable since Sep 27th 2019!

  6. #2005
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    AGAIN A BIT OF METALLIC RATTLE

    Same as above.

    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 GT3582R one-time dyno target 500whp/wtq+
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Bulid time before being driveable: over 5000h
    Driveable since Sep 27th 2019!

  7. #2006
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    AMAZED BY THE 818's SUSPENSION

    I'd like to share my impressions of the 818's driving capabilities.

    What amazed me the most is how DAMN WELL the suspension absorbs pavement irregularities. And we got some very bad around, Brian can vouch for that.
    I was expecting this car to be HARSH and almost undriveable on bad pavement. Turns out it drives BETTER than my Kona EV! My electric Kona bounces around on bumpy roads due to its soft suspension. And I can feel the short frequency hits on the suspension (big cracks, stuff like that).
    When driving with the 818 you can feel it's sporty, yes, but it does not bounce at all and does not hit you. The rebound is amazing it absorbs everything and the car remains extremely stable even on quite bad pavement.

    Mind you, I'm using #400 springs in the back due to the added weight compared to an H4. But I'm pretty sure you guys with #275 would feel something similar.

    I was also expecting many car parts to shake or move or make noise on rough pavement. But since the suspension is perfection, it's just like a normal great quality car. Very impressed.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 GT3582R one-time dyno target 500whp/wtq+
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Bulid time before being driveable: over 5000h
    Driveable since Sep 27th 2019!

  8. #2007
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    MAJOR RE-TUNE ON MY ENGINE

    For quite some time I was always making adjustments on my ECU, live. Mainly fuel and compensation maps.
    The car was also hesitating a lot at low rpms, when launching or shifting gears at low rpm. I was applying small changes to 1 or 2 things, but it was not getting better.

    This week I found out the timing map of the VR6 naturally aspirated, probably close to what OEM uses, if not the one from OEM. I realized I was way too low on timing values under 2500 rpm.
    I also found a map of a guy with a VR6 turbo.
    So I analyzed both maps and I built a completely new one for myself. I'd say 98% of the numbers are different now.

    I also decided to go all in. I changed quite a lot my fuel map and compensation maps as well. Sometimes making small changes just don't work.

    I tested all this for the first time when Brian was here yesterday. Turned out the car drove so well I did not apply any change on my maps during the ride. Which was close to 1h I believe. Never done so long without a live change.

    I do have changes to apply after the fact while reading my log file, but I mean the changes were not important enough to be done live while driving.

    Now the car launches so damn well, very smooth, no hesitation at all.

    I also did not experience the weird pop noises or weird lean fuel situations at idle I had before.

    I'm getting there. Someday it will be close to perfection, tuned on a dyno and a joy to ride! Once I find out what that metallic rattle is...
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 GT3582R one-time dyno target 500whp/wtq+
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Bulid time before being driveable: over 5000h
    Driveable since Sep 27th 2019!

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  10. #2008
    Senior Member Jetfuel's Avatar
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    Freaking awesome Frank..
    Drive the wheels off of that car...metallic rattle??? Any loose chain in your pockets??? lol

    Jet

  11. #2009
    Senior Member flynntuna's Avatar
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    That rattle almost sounds like something broken in the muffler?

  12. #2010
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by flynntuna View Post
    That rattle almost sounds like something broken in the muffler?
    It certainly does. But no matter how I hit on the muffler and exhaust I cannot reproduce. I also secured and changed a bit 3 installation points and it didn't do anything.

    I'm still thinking it could be something inside the muffler.

    Not sure how to test that!

    I can remove the muffler but then what, how to test the muffler itself, maybe it needs to be hot for the rattle to happen.
    I would like to test the engine without that muffler, I could use another muffler that I hang in there temporarily and I drive without the engine covers (the muffler sits at a good 45-deg angle, maybe 60, the back being higher, throwing above the bumper).

    If I don't find it before the winter, maybe I'll get a cheap 3" muffler, make some cheap welds for v-band and one time test next Spring.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 GT3582R one-time dyno target 500whp/wtq+
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Bulid time before being driveable: over 5000h
    Driveable since Sep 27th 2019!

  13. #2011
    Member fletch's Avatar
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    I’ve spent all day traveling but just wanted to say it was a thrill being with you Frank and getting to experience your amazing car. My thoughts on the suspension are the same as yours. I was surprised at how smooth the car felt over those roads. Thanks again. I’ll check back soon once I have some more time to write.

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  15. #2012

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    Thanks for catching us up on things. Seems all pretty good save the little rattle issue. A ride in Jetfuel's 818 and my own go-carting agree with your suspension comments. Very decent ride, certainly not the hard knock stuff I had anticipated. This car is going to be a lot of fun to run around in.
    Art Quillen

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  17. #2013
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    Glad to hear you're putting down more miles! I'm surprised the permatex failed, I'm curious how you did the prep/cleaning before you applied it and how long did you let it cure? Any chance the temperature was below 50F?

    For the muffler, I'd suggest removing it and shaking the pipe by hand to see if something is loose inside. Again, great to see you having more successful drives!

  18. #2014
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    I think the surface might not have been very good for the Permatex. I let it cure I can't recall how long, but at least 24h. Although it was already in tank. But the fuel was very low, it only got in contact with fuel vapors during curing time.


    According to you, what would make it different between shaking the pipe and muffler outside the car vs hammering on it with my fist from every angle while in the car?

    I'll definately take it out this winter and use a small camera to go see inside, in case I find something weird. It's a fully straight open muffler so easy to poke inside from the inlet side. I have a 90-deg welded on the outlet so that's a little more difficult.


    On a side note, I drove the car at 6h45AM this morning in the dark. Less people on the road, but colder too, although it was fine when engine hot. Got a video and pix, will post this week. It makes it different driving in the dark. Need to raise a little my headlights for better lighting.

    I really start to get sick of that rattle, but I can't spend too much time now cuz I need to drive and in a couple of weeks it's over until April.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 GT3582R one-time dyno target 500whp/wtq+
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Bulid time before being driveable: over 5000h
    Driveable since Sep 27th 2019!

  19. #2015
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frank818 View Post
    I think the surface might not have been very good for the Permatex. I let it cure I can't recall how long, but at least 24h. Although it was already in tank. But the fuel was very low, it only got in contact with fuel vapors during curing time.
    I would definitely let the permatex cure in fresh air at the right temperature for at least a day or more. The fuel molecules in the vapor may have permeated through the sealer before it was cured causing premature delamination - kind of like small cracks that start at the surface and work their way in. The seal is only as good as the prep and the cure.

    Quote Originally Posted by Frank818 View Post
    According to you, what would make it different between shaking the pipe and muffler outside the car vs hammering on it with my fist from every angle while in the car?
    When it's on the car, it's constrained and can't move very much. When it's off the car you can really shake up anything that may be inside. It's just a thought, I assumed the exhaust would be easy to remove since it's so short and accessible. It's tough to tell from the video if something is rattling in there or the piping itself is just hitting a resonance frequency at the same rpm every time. If it's the latter, you may need to put in a "resonator" or something to damp out that frequency response.

  20. #2016
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    I get your point on Permatex, thought about it but had no proof, since you confirm my thoughts, it's now anchored hard in my brain and I won't make that mistake when using Jet's aerospace sealant. Hell no.


    Makes sense on the muffler, one of the first things to get removed once I store for the winter.
    If I need to add something to the exhaust, then I need to find a muffler that is at least half the lenght (currently 20in I think) of my current one, cuz otherwise there is less than 2" long anywhere else on the piping to fit another piece.

    I must say it did NOT rattle like that in 2017 when I went twice on a race track and clocked overall 105km. So my fair guess is it's not resonance related. It started on the day I cranked it for the 1st time with my new internals.

    And it's not always at the same RPM (but 90% of the time at 2500), sometimes it rattles a bit at 2000, 2200, 3000, even 3200. But only under driving, coasting, load or downshifting. At idle if you have a great ear like me you may hear it but only 5% the loudness it is when driving. Brian went in the back with his head inside the engine bay while I was revving at idle and he didn't hear anything, but I was hearing it very so slightly. The muffler must have made the overall noise too high so he couldn't hear the rattle.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 GT3582R one-time dyno target 500whp/wtq+
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Bulid time before being driveable: over 5000h
    Driveable since Sep 27th 2019!

  21. #2017
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    This is my driving in the dark this morning. Finger in the camera and rattle, those are the main topics. loll

    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 GT3582R one-time dyno target 500whp/wtq+
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Bulid time before being driveable: over 5000h
    Driveable since Sep 27th 2019!

  22. #2018
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    And this is the unstable idle I get since I fixed my fuel pump hose.

    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 GT3582R one-time dyno target 500whp/wtq+
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Bulid time before being driveable: over 5000h
    Driveable since Sep 27th 2019!

  23. #2019
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Went for a drive yesterday.

    This is the highlight of it:

    2019-10-26 13.49.40.jpg

    Guess what failed?

    That's right, that's right, the GOD DAMN FUEL PUMP DELIVERY again. The hose slipped off from the pump again!! Honestly I'm not sure how to make that any better, it seems the pump twists with pressure and even though the clamp was tight the pump's outlet slipped off the hose.

    I need to keep some twist play on the unit otherwise it's not possible to drop or remove the pump unit from the tank, due to the hole not being large enough, tnx to FFR for that. In the manual for those who got the 1st gen tank that's what they do, you slide the pump in and you need to flex the alu unit (at the hanger bolt and hose) in order to get the return tubing and other metal parts inside the damn hole.

    On the other hand, why is this only happening to me?? I believe...

    This damn thing failed 4 times in 250km and you know you cannot mess with fuel delivery. This time I didn't get lucky and was driving.

    This is the exact reason why I am very very very afraid of driving the car more than 5-6km away from home....
    Not sure when I'll build trust in this car but so far my trust is going down.

    The problem is I cannot test my fuel solutions other than by driving the car.

    I was thinking maybe 4bar pressure is too much and I should swap for a 3bar FPR, but who knows if it'll help... and if I do swap, then what's gonna change on my fuel map and will it be a problem at full boost once I get the car on the dyno and will it make the engine less driveable (some say yes on google)... no one knows cuz even after googling I could not determine if I need a 4bar FPR or if with 3bar I would be ok.

    A lot of uncertain stuff here and I'm playing with fuel, so not very good.


    No I am not frustrated. That is long gone. Now I have rage inside. I had so much rage yesterday that I could have exploded a 3-feet thick concrete wall with my bare hands. All this sucks so much and I don't understand why I get all these issues or what I could do wrong in order for that to happen so many times. But that's how it is and I can't change the past. Can't hardly change the future as well cuz I can't know for sure if my fixes will work. I gotta try something, drive and tow the car if it fails. Very sad situation, but again that's life of a full custom car, I've got only ME to complain about.


    One thing to note, have gone 100% FFR standard I would still have gotten that problem, cuz fuel delivery here is independent from the VR6 transplant and I would have done the same thing with a Subaru engine.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 GT3582R one-time dyno target 500whp/wtq+
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Bulid time before being driveable: over 5000h
    Driveable since Sep 27th 2019!

  24. #2020
    Tazio Nuvolari wannabe Scargo's Avatar
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    How is the hose retained other than the clamps? Is there any barb or raised bead on the end of the tube from the pump?
    I ask because I could not keep an intercooler hose on without a raised bead. No matter how tight it was clamped, it slid off, and that was only 21 PSI!
    Fuel makes for a good lubricant too.
    "Scotty, give me all the TRACTION she's got!" Pictures of what I drive till 818R is finished

  25. #2021
    Senior Member Jetfuel's Avatar
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    Oh man...we didn't want to hear that...anyways..
    Totally agree with Scargo...
    Get rid of that clamp...create some type of barb on the pump outlet tube...a dremel comes to mind...stager the half moon cuts and double clamp it

    Jet

  26. #2022
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    Borrow a bubble flare tool and put a flare on it and then use a stepless clamp.

  27. #2023
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scargo View Post
    How is the hose retained other than the clamps? Is there any barb or raised bead on the end of the tube from the pump?
    I ask because I could not keep an intercooler hose on without a raised bead. No matter how tight it was clamped, it slid off, and that was only 21 PSI!
    Fuel makes for a good lubricant too.
    Exactly that's the problem. But it's not on the metal tubing, it's on the plastic outlet of the pump itself, so I cannot barb that thing.

    Take a look at the pix on their website: https://www.aemelectronics.com/produ...p-offset-inlet


    This is how I'm trying now...

    2019-10-27 17.41.05.jpg
    Last edited by Frank818; 10-27-2019 at 05:58 PM.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 GT3582R one-time dyno target 500whp/wtq+
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Bulid time before being driveable: over 5000h
    Driveable since Sep 27th 2019!

  28. #2024
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Still managed to record a video yesterday, I got a new phone this week so I was trying it. I think the sound is clearer with that phone.

    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 GT3582R one-time dyno target 500whp/wtq+
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Bulid time before being driveable: over 5000h
    Driveable since Sep 27th 2019!

  29. #2025
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    Build a psuedo-flare using JBWeld to help hold the hose on.

  30. #2026
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Hum, will it work, the 5/16 hose is very tigth to slide over the outlet nipple, I think if I make it any bigger it will not slide in. I could try and see but if it doesn't work I have to dremmel it off and it's plastic I wouldn't want to break the outlet. Rollbacking the JB Weld may not be easy, that's what I mean. I'll take a closer look.

    On the other hand I could just buy another brand pump with a better bead on the outlet.

    Anyone know a good brand for such type of pump?
    Aeromotive maybe? Needs to support at least 60psi pressure, I think this AEM goes to 90 or 100.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 GT3582R one-time dyno target 500whp/wtq+
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Bulid time before being driveable: over 5000h
    Driveable since Sep 27th 2019!

  31. #2027
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Yeah how about this one?

    https://aeromotiveinc.com/product/34...ffset-inlet-2/

    It has a metal bead, seems a little bigger.


    And here's a list of various intank pumps, that could be helpful!

    https://www.realstreetperformance.com/blog/fuel-pump-test-2018-real-street-performance/




    Whoa! Check out the double bead on this one!!
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/340-LPH-In-tank-high-pressure-Universal-fuel-pump-E85-OK-Proflow-PFEFS11150-/151916611254
    Last edited by Frank818; 10-27-2019 at 06:56 PM.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 GT3582R one-time dyno target 500whp/wtq+
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Bulid time before being driveable: over 5000h
    Driveable since Sep 27th 2019!

  32. #2028
    Senior Member Jetfuel's Avatar
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    Good idea to hold the hose back
    Try safety wire instead of tye-wrap just in case the fuel dries up the plastic
    On the plastic outlet of the pump just rough up the smooth finish of the plastic to give the hose something extra to bite on

    Jet

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  34. #2029

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    aquillen's Avatar
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    Jetfuel's plan to rough the plastic surface somewhat makes sense. If I understand correctly the short hose between the pump outlet and the bottom of the tank plate pipe stub slips off of the pump nipple - because it has enough curve in the hose to handle flex/install needs such that it can bend under pressure and vibration then slide off.

    If there is room for a regular hose clamp of larger size I'd try this - put a larger piece of scrap hose (fuel line rated & slit to make it easy to install over the problem hose). Do this to protect the hose from rubbing through against a hose clamp. Then cut a small bit of the aluminum frame away to ensure the new hose clamp cannot slide up or down over time. Put the new clamp over the middle of the bend so it can't work out of there. Then the hose should not be able to bow out enough to work free. It can still flex a bit when needed but you have something that should not come apart later on.

    For ty-wraps inside the tank I'd only trust the low temp rated 6/6 type nylon, others may be fine but I think these are the best as far as I could find reading up on them. But even then I'd only use them to secure wiring, not mechanical parts like the hose, pump, etc., go safety wire like JF says.

    Mock up on your image:

    Last edited by aquillen; 10-27-2019 at 10:11 PM.
    Art Quillen

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  36. #2030
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    I will implement those ideas.

    But not with my current pump. I ordered a new one from DeatschWerks that has a nice double barbed outlet. Sounded like a very slightly better architecture behind it as well but that’s not the reason for this choice. At the minimum it needed to meet my fuel requirements of course and then a solid outlet.

    No matter the solution with my current AEM pump, I will NOT trust it again. And I can tell you that feeling of driving with a big Damocles sword over your head is not pleasant at all. Right, Adam?

    I want to remove that sword, I want to gain confidence in the car and that was the only way regarding the fuel pump.

    Speaking of which, the fuel pick-up unit from FFR comes from an OEM 86-93 Mustang…

    https://lmr.com/item/LRS-9407B/1987-...l-Pump-Bracket

    However I found out the way FFR flared the pump hole on the tank is different than how Ford did it on their Mustang tank. This may explain why the seal on FFR’s tank is very very bad.




    The car is now stored until March or April. I’ve got so much to work on + fixing my bike, it will be a very busy winter.

    However after 260km in 1 month NOTHING got worse on the car. Assuming this new pump will fix the hose sliding off, then I should be good for a long drive next year, hopefully without my annoying and very embarrassing rattle.

    My humongous rage of the pump failing again has passed away, temps are going down this week and will continue to drop for months, so maybe I lost 2-3 rides and not very cool ones anyway. Since I have a lot to work on, it’s better if I stop now and have those 3-4 weeks more to work on the car rather than keep it running for 2-3 so-so rides.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 GT3582R one-time dyno target 500whp/wtq+
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Bulid time before being driveable: over 5000h
    Driveable since Sep 27th 2019!

  37. #2031
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    My last comment on my recent rides has nothing to do with FFR or Subaru. This rebuilt VR6 engine is hard to tune.

    Right after I fixed the fuel pump hose the 1st time, my 3 exhaust side cylinders started running very rich immediately at cranking. No other change on the car.
    It was so unstable at idle when warm (bouncing rpms) and many times while driving, I had to check what was wrong. Didn’t find any explanation, so I changed the plugs as a start.

    It immediately fixed 2 of the 3 cylinders and helped on the last one.

    Then I had to trim fuel off by 33% on that last cylinder in order to get it about the same as the other 5.

    33% cylinder imbalance, that is a lot. And still no explanation.

    Some will say it doesn’t matter, if I can trim fuel per cylinder, which I can and did, then it fixes it.
    No it may not. Cuz I don’t know why I had to trim fuel off. Is it cuz I had too much fuel or cuz I have not enough air?
    The latter will cut roughly 30% power on that cylinder which may cause other issues on the long run.

    Out of clue on this one, but honestly re-clamping a fuel hose is a rather weird cause of enriching 50% of the cylinders, only the ones on the exhaust side and every other intake runner on the fuel line… That's how it is and how I will drive next spring, we'll see what comes up.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 GT3582R one-time dyno target 500whp/wtq+
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Bulid time before being driveable: over 5000h
    Driveable since Sep 27th 2019!

  38. #2032
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    frank which shroud did you go with and fans have you had luck with?

  39. #2033
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    It was seller "radiator4less" on ebay. He is totally AWESOME and he knows his products and how to calculate the perfect fit for a custom shroud, provided you can show him a picture of your setup/rad or the rad itself from a close-up pic on internet.

    You have some options, like shroud thickness wrt rad fins, normal fans (like mines) or high CFM fans (draw more current and take more space for motor).

    I had a LOT of lucks with this kit, day and night compared to my stupid idea of a one 14" fan and no shroud.
    The fans are dual 12" from that guy, they are quieter than my single 14" fan and each fan flows more CFM than my 14" fan. I admit I must have had a super cheap fan before, but that's the only thing I can compare with anyway.

    I am now able to control the fans and temps as I desire.

    One of the best part I've bought for the car.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 GT3582R one-time dyno target 500whp/wtq+
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Bulid time before being driveable: over 5000h
    Driveable since Sep 27th 2019!

  40. #2034
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Updates on fuel pump and metallic rattle.


    FUEL PUMP

    How complicated!
    The pump I got does not have the barbed outlet type, even though the guy confirmed it was the right part #.
    I decided to start using that pump and securing differently, but while examining the pump, I found this:

    2019-11-09 19.05.44.png2019-11-09 19.05.30_1.jpeg

    That's right! The pump got altered! Someone cut the 2 eye lids or I don't know how to call the extensions that were there. Those extensions are on a different part #, along with the normal flared outlet.

    So it was obvious someone tried to fake part # 9-307 using a 9-309.
    I returned the item and should be fully refunded.

    I then contacted another seller who had the right picture and he told me DW uses BOTH outlet types on part 9-307, it depends what's available during assembly.
    Good god, so complicated to get the pump with triple barb outlet!
    The guy is looking at DW's warehouse if there's one with the barb. Otherwise I have no other option...


    METALLIC RATTLE

    Spoke with my mech today and showed him the multiple videos I recorded. He believes it's something inside the muffler. If that's true, he said I could cut open the muffler and fix the problem there, then weld back the muffler, by a professional. Might cost more than buying a new muffler, but the way I welded my pipes on the muffler I'd have to either buy new pipes, flanges and 90-deg elbow or have them cut with precision and re-welded back, all this would cost more than cutting the muffler and welding it back.

    EDIT:
    I just removed the muffler, there is a very small metallic thing rolling around inside it, but I'd say it's as faint as a nail rolling around inside a muffler, or a bit more. Maybe when things get hot it gets a lot louder, but the sounds seems to come from a very light piece. When hot it seems a heavy piece.

    My mech saw my used oil while I was dumping it and there is no sparkle at all, oil looks perfect for an engine normally breaking in. So it has to be the muffler...
    Last edited by Frank818; 11-11-2019 at 04:15 PM.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 GT3582R one-time dyno target 500whp/wtq+
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Bulid time before being driveable: over 5000h
    Driveable since Sep 27th 2019!

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  42. #2035
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    I noticed it gets very dusty in the engine bay, after only 260km:

    2019-11-05 07.49.03.jpg2019-11-05 07.50.01.jpg2019-11-05 07.50.15.jpg
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 GT3582R one-time dyno target 500whp/wtq+
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Bulid time before being driveable: over 5000h
    Driveable since Sep 27th 2019!

  43. #2036
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    IMG_0010.jpgIMG_0011.jpgIMG_0012.jpg

    I realized I didn't post my 1st external pix of the car while driving, kindly taken by Brian when he and his wife came around in October.
    This allowed me to see my flashers in action from distance on the road (bumper+mirror), for the first time ever. For some reason, Brian took 2 front shots of the car and both times he timed it when the flashers were at their brightest. How smart! Or lucky............... lolll
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 GT3582R one-time dyno target 500whp/wtq+
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Bulid time before being driveable: over 5000h
    Driveable since Sep 27th 2019!

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  45. #2037
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Finished installing my new cam gears. They are pretty much exactly like Porsche's, adjustable cam gears.

    These are very handy when you are not stock (which I'm far from!). Whether you get your head resurfaced, or using gasket spacer to lower engine CR (I got both!), it changes how high the cams sit and therefore it's harder to get 100% timed, as when OEM the parts are built for that spec.

    Well these adjustable cam gears allowed me not only to time 100% perfectly at 0-deg both cams, but they did it with a super tight chain. There are 2 sections where the chain needs to be very tight and one section where all the slack should be. It allowed me for that.

    AND IT'S SUPER EASY TO WORK ON THE CAMS IN THIS ENGINE, FRANK PEARLDRUMMER! loolllllllll

    2019-11-15 06.38.04.jpg2019-11-15 07.01.30.jpg2019-11-16 10.17.03.jpg2019-11-16 15.00.51.jpg


    I also took the time to replace 2 lifters and remove them all in order to pour oil inside, hoping that will help the occasional lifter tapping rattle I get when I push the RPMs more.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 GT3582R one-time dyno target 500whp/wtq+
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Bulid time before being driveable: over 5000h
    Driveable since Sep 27th 2019!

  46. #2038
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Damn I love this car.



    In the modern age to me it's the best looking car and most bang for the bucks car USA has ever designed. Forget the Ford GT, WAY too expensive, but this convertible vette.... with the best looking American S/W ever and probably the best looking American interior as well. God I want one, even though Jeff said it's gonna have a lot of issues cuz it's the 1st year of a new Chevy model. I mean TAKE A LOOK AT THAT AWESOME CAR! Take it to Hennessey and you're off for 1000+hp!
    Last edited by Frank818; 11-18-2019 at 07:50 PM.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 GT3582R one-time dyno target 500whp/wtq+
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Bulid time before being driveable: over 5000h
    Driveable since Sep 27th 2019!

  47. Likes DSR-3 liked this post
  48. #2039
    Senior Member Pearldrummer7's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frank818 View Post
    Finished installing my new cam gears. They are pretty much exactly like Porsche's, adjustable cam gears.

    These are very handy when you are not stock (which I'm far from!). Whether you get your head resurfaced, or using gasket spacer to lower engine CR (I got both!), it changes how high the cams sit and therefore it's harder to get 100% timed, as when OEM the parts are built for that spec.

    Well these adjustable cam gears allowed me not only to time 100% perfectly at 0-deg both cams, but they did it with a super tight chain. There are 2 sections where the chain needs to be very tight and one section where all the slack should be. It allowed me for that.

    AND IT'S SUPER EASY TO WORK ON THE CAMS IN THIS ENGINE, FRANK PEARLDRUMMER! loolllllllll

    2019-11-15 06.38.04.jpg2019-11-15 07.01.30.jpg2019-11-16 10.17.03.jpg2019-11-16 15.00.51.jpg


    I also took the time to replace 2 lifters and remove them all in order to pour oil inside, hoping that will help the occasional lifter tapping rattle I get when I push the RPMs more.
    Oh man those are SO cool. I'm super jealous of such a nice setup compared to the stock Subaru timing system.
    Frank - Build thread

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