Frank818 -1993 VW VR6 Turbo donor- Build Thread

[Frank818]

Weigh what options? I have no option now, I have to accept as is. If DSS cannot build strong enough CVs using the seals, then I have to run without them and change them often. But no one knows how often, of course. Will never see water and dust here isn't bad, we never have South West or CA weather/droughts. But I don't want to change them every 2k miles, it's already extremely difficult to put the axles in place (impossible when spindle is installed), it's not a job I want to do every year. But I will if DSS cannot build proper CVs. That's where I have no choice. For now. I'll see later if STI spindles could solve the issue but at the moment, the faster I get the freakin car on the road and register it, the better. Then after registration, during a winter season, I'll upgrade whatever needs to be upgraded for safety or long term reliability/wear. That's my plan, if I do all the R&D now, in 2-3 years I'll still be at the same point, no body on, no wheels, no registration.

What pisses me is that these black CVs can't make a full turn cuz of the metal clip on the retaining clamp. The other CVs they sent me in November were ok or spindles in need of light grinding, but it was doable. They have regressed with these black CVs and we're 4 months after 1st delivery. That's the frustrating part.


My CV issues would happen to anyone with a Subaru engine in need of stronger CVs. But once I find the workable solution, everyone will know what to order and should not come across these issues.

[STiPWRD]

Frank, from what you're describing, DSS cannot machine outer CV's that are equivalent to the Subaru ones you have. You sent them your donor axles so they could use them as a reference right? So why didn't they machine the new axles to the same dimensions? This isn't rocket science. Another option you have is to take your parts to a local machine shop and have them remove the interfering metal. I wouldn't give up on that second seal, hang in there!

[Frank818]

Yes those are good points.

If DSS builds the same CVs as OEM, I gain nothing in terms of strenght. That is must as I will have too much torque and they will break. Many already prove that on the forum with much less power than me.

I thought of having the DSS CVs re-machined locally, but I don't know how it would affect strenght, comes back to point above.

I'm waiting for the response of the guy at DSS and see what's the catch about the too big metal clip preventing a full turn (that really is not acceptable considering I sent them the spindle to ref to) and then what he can do to keep the seals in. If he says strenght would greatly decrease, then I rather change my bearings often than have a CV break. Yes I do have a little straw to hang onto still, until DSS responds.

[STiPWRD]

Strength depends on both dimensions (i.e. a larger diameter is stronger) but it also depends on the material. For instance, the strength of steel can vary quite a bit depending on temper, heat treatment, constituent alloys, processing (forging, casting), etc. You could have two axles that are the same exact dimensions and one could be 3-4 times stronger than the other because it's heat treated. I don't know what is the strength of the Subaru axle material relative to what DSS uses.

If strength is an issue, you may want to go with sti rear spindles on the next go-around. They use a larger axle diameter.

[Frank818]

Ok I see your point.

In Sep when I ordered the shafts I told DSS to build me the strongest driveshafts possible for this application. I assume they did that. Then, it's fair to think that a smaller CV will not have as much strength as a big one like those they provided to me.


STI spindles might be a way to go at some point, but not in the short term. It's not just a matter of buying STI spindles. I need 5x114 hubs, 5x114 rear wheels (and I would like to keep the style I have, Rota Torque) and of course new CVs. If all goes well, it's probably around 1500 bucks + say 500 for losses of unused parts I have bought already. If not all goes well, well I could have to make compromises + pay 1500-2000 bucks + 500. Also, many many many hours of work. Since now my goal is to build what's required to get that dead weight registered, this is why I'll keep the STI spindles on the back burner. If I knew about that before buying my wheels, I might have gone straight to them, but then again I'm the first with this kit and apparently the first to try to have the strongest driveshafts possible too.

[STiPWRD]

04 (and earlier) sti spindles are 5x100. They switched to 5x114 in 05 and onward. The only mod you'd have to make is your rear outer CV ends on the axles.

[Frank818]

Oh cool! I thought only the 5x114 had a bigger center hole and hub shaft. Then a 02-04 could be a choice. I'll ask DSS how much for 02-04 STI CVs and if they keep seals on. My guess around 250 each. Then I'd need to source spindles, 175 each new (#28411FA010), hubs, bearings and seals, another 250 probably. Backplates seem different (#26704FE010 for one), 115 each, hopefully not the e-brake hardware. Then I have to modify the FFR IFS bracket cuz I think the holes aren't at the same place, or source the FFR part directly from them, another 100. Shipping and whatnot, let's say 1400+ project and 100+ hours.

Quite a few of these parts are hard to get, ebay does not list a lot.

If DSS can build STI CVs and still use seals, I'll put that on my list for the future (1-2 years). But nothing tells me yet they can build it with seals.

[Frank818]

Interesting for anyone in need of stronger CVs.

DSS confirmed they cannot build a strong enough CV if they were to use any of the inner seals on our spindles. Replicating the OEM CV their way may increase slightly the strength, but for something in the territory of 400-500wtq they have to remove the seals and use all that space to inject steroids into the CV.

Interesting note, they say for a non-dirt car (like mine) they believe the bearings' life should not be shorten compared to those with seals. It's true the space in there is so damn tight it helps a bit, but the guy was confident the life of my bearings should be "decent".

I've asked about the STI spindles, will comment when I get an answer.

I am sending back the axles to DSS a second time, they will extent the boot with a cover in order to clear the metal retaining clip that prevents full turn. I don't believe I'll get them back until, hum, say April 15th. I have a few days off at the very end of April, my new target date for 1st start.

I really need my nose upgrade Courtnie, it's the only thing I can work on until then.

[Frank818]

Well I got a second opinion on the bearings without seals. My old time mech told me there shouldn't be any problems as long as I don't put water on the spindles (or drive in water of course). He said no worries about dust on a road car. That's reassuring. I've got 2 main reasons not to drive in water now, no roof and no seals. lol

Sending back the axles on Monday to get the retaining clip cleared out. In the end what you need is a Level 5 02-07 WRX outer CV with a boot cover or something to clear the clip. Should handle 450-500whp. The axles are made of chromoly and should handle about the same or more.

[nkw8181]

Nice to know. Umm now how do you put that kind of power to the ground??

[Frank818]

Lol, good question. Since the Catherham 620R with 550kg or so is able to stretch to 62mph in 2.8s, I believe putting the power on the ground for a light car is possible. I'll have more weight in the back than any Subaru engine, that should help. Maybe larger tires (have 265 now), stickier would be hard since I already got one of the stickiest road legal tire. A good boost controller by either speed or RPM is also handy. Traction control too pricey for now.

Putting the power to the ground will be part of my fine tuning after I get that thing registered.

[nkw8181]

Good luck putting the power down. I have 265 toyo r888's and mine still likes to spin

[choobs]

Did you put a limited slip diff in your g50 box, Frank?

[Frank818]

No luck required Nolan, cuz it will spin in 3rd and possibly in 4th anyway. loll Judging by Wayne's 400whp Subaru engine (smaller) on same tires as I have (except 255s for him and 265s for me), he was spinning in 4th. Now I will have more weight in the back and taller 3rd-4th gears. We'll see about that, but I am 90% sure 3rd will spin. The goal will be to smooth out the kick of torque provided by the turbo.

Hey choobs, oh yeah hell damn yeah! I have put Wavetrac diff http://www.wavetrac.net/, I had one on my Corrado, love it. If a wheel doesn't touch the ground or spins freely, that diff transfers 100% of the power on the other wheel instead of no power at all like on some diffs. It's well priced too.

[choobs]

Hey choobs, oh yeah hell damn yeah! I have put Wavetrac diff http://www.wavetrac.net/, I had one on my Corrado, love it. If a wheel doesn't touch the ground or spins freely, that diff transfers 100% of the power on the other wheel instead of no power at all like on some diffs. It's well priced too.

Good to hear! I've read very little on Wavetrac but its nice to hear some first hand experience. Most VW guys look at quaife or peloquin. And the daring buy OBX stuff lol

[Frank818]

I had a Peloquin before. Makes noise at idle when not pressing the clutch (they all do), the other brands don't. Overall was happier with Wavetrac.

[Frank818]

Update on Steps before 1st start:
1- Getting my rear spindles ready
2- Installing axles and rear spindles
3- Completing wiring
4- Plugging wiring
5- Finishing coolant lines (Since Dec 6th from China, bought from 3 places in 3 months and still missing pieces)
6- Stiffening throttle cable
7- Upgrading my InfinitiBox with new rules
8- Installing shift cables
9- Fixing shifter brackets
10-Installing tunnel cover and rear ebrake cover
11- Completing AWIC tank support bracket
12- Bleeding brakes
13- Fixing and Bleeding clutch
14- Fixing rear shock tower brace
15- Filling engine with oil
16- Filling trans with oil
17- Filling engine with coolant
18- Filling AWIC with coolant
19- Upgrading ECU to latest software
20- Tuning a few ECU parms
21- Testing wiring
22- Fixing DSS CV issue
23- Replacing front spindles
24- First start!

#22 is preventing me from first start.

[Frank818]

Moving ahead somehow!


AXLES
I should get my axles back tomorrow the 1st. Hopefully that's not an April fool...


COOLANT LINES
FINALLY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I got my brass fittings after almost 4 months!!! I am currently installing the lines left over. Not perfect, many fittings are in the way of other things (like O2 sensor) and the line coming off the head will be about 1" from my exhaust pipe and WG. Oh well, it's that or I waste a lot of time designing differently and a lot of money to get different parts that won't arrive until another 2-3 months, so screw that.


CLUSTER
After blowing up my fuel gauge, I fixed it by bypassing the cluster circuit board itself. It will read 5-90ohms from the FFR fuel sender.


2016-03-13 07.08.31_1.jpg2016-03-15 05.53.03_1.jpg


NOSE UPGRADE
I was sick of waiting since Dec, it seems FFR only has the headlights lenses BOed, so I made a deal with Courtnie, she will ship my nose upgrade without the lenses and once they come in FFR will ship them to me, with or without fees, I told her I don't give a crap to get the lenses in Sept but I need the nose by April 25th.


FRONT SPINDLES
Got some replacement seals (which don't look like OEM ones, although they fit) and installed my spindles. The hubs are harder/stiffer to turn than on the rear spindles, hopefully that'll ease out after a few miles, I don't want to use too much unnecessary hps to drive the wheels.

At the same time I changed my pinch bolts. Damn, my mech torqued those bolts before using an air gun at probably 100-150lbs (saw him doing it 2 years ago)!!! Should be torqued at 37! That explains why my OEM bolts where bent.
This time I bought some socket caps screws, with an A4 washer and some nuts. M10x60x1.25 bolts. Those are grade 12.9 bolts. They fit just fine and torqued at OEM 37lbs.
Around 6 bucks per side for 3 items.


2016-03-30 16.10.58_1.jpg2016-03-30 16.11.17_1.jpg



I am still on target for first start before April 30th 2016.

[Hindsight]

Nice to see some progress. Got my fingers crossed for you that the axles work out right this time.

[Frank818]

It was an April fool. Axles should have arrived on 31st, got held. Then on 1st, got held again. Customs are looking at my package and no one knows when they will release it. Could take a few days, I've seen 1 month in the past... I can't believe I get all those non-build-related issues, it's frustrating.


I've completed my cooling lines. Check out the stupidest thing ever:

2016-04-02 08.13.04.jpg

All the space in the world and the small O2 sensor harness is squeezed right on my brass fitting. What are the ****ing odds, hey? I designed the cooling lines before I had my exhaust fitted, so I pay the price now. I am using an OEM line that has a T in it which connects to the fitting, hard to fix this. I could buy another T fitting, other hoses and fix it, but by the time I get my T I know it'll be too late, I need to start that engine soon. Will take the risk, if it's bad, I'll flush coolant and take a few months elapsed (waiting most of the time) to fix it.


Second stupidest thing:

2016-04-02 08.12.53.jpg2016-04-02 08.16.09.jpg

Had to move back the overflow tank cuz I couldn't fit the humps block-off plate. By pushing backwards, the cap cannot be removed unless I unbolt the overflow from it's bracket. Since I should not remove the cap often, I can live with that compromise. Another one on the list. Water level sensor is also on the alu plate, but not squeezed, I can remove it.



I had to tie-wrap the hoses in order to attach them and secure them somehow. Also cuz the U at the bottom was half an inch over my exhaust pipe!

2016-04-02 08.15.36.jpg2016-04-02 08.15.54.jpg

On that second pic above is the OEM T hose I mentioned earlier, see what I mean.




And some overall pix of the engine and accessories:


2016-04-02 08.12.36.jpg2016-04-02 08.13.19.jpg2016-04-02 08.13.31.jpg2016-04-02 08.14.12.jpg


NO, the air filter will not remain like this, otherwise it'll heatsoak the engine, it's forward from the side scoop. I have to come up with a design to redirect scooped air into the filter and also protect the filter from turbo's heat and hot coolant lines heat from the bottom. I have not found a solution yet.

[Hindsight]

Looks like the inside of a NASA satellite Frank!

Edit, auto corrected NASA to NASAL.

[Scargo]

I'm sure there's an engine in there, somewhere. Hard to make it out for all the bling.

[Frank818]

Yeah well I need to drive to the moon with this thing, heat management obligation. I must admit I didn't do it for the bling at all, since I don't plan on showing off the engine nor driving without the engine covers on. Could have been any other color or colorless I wouldn't care.

I found a solution for my intake filter. I just need to make sure it'll clear out VRaptor's fins on the side scoop, if yes then I approve the solution.
4" filter is freakin tight in there!

[svanlare]

I have to say, I left the FFR script less than you did and I have a similar list of zip-ties and "stupid-things" that all need to be sorted. I'm now describing this part of the build as the fiddly bits. lots of head scratching, building small brackets and moving things an inch here and there. A ton of work to decide where a screw needs to go before I can then put something on for good.

In good news, yours screams NASA, so I think I need to order some gold foil.

[Frank818]

The "fiddly bits", as you say, are a big chunk of the build, yeah, it's amazing (not in the cool way of saying it, though).


Axles still held at customs! Like I said on the New Nose Upgrade thread, if Trump could buy Canada and that way "make America great again", I would be starting my engine by now!!

Anywho, I am pretty stuck at the moment on the car. I have secured everything, waiting for axles to be installed and then I put fluid in, drop it on wheels, adjust alignment (need axles in to install spindles first) and it's a start.

I try to start on making holes on the body, like fuel cap, rear lights, scoops. Maybe I could fit the many 0DB louvers I bought. But that's pretty much it. Very boring at this time I must say. I believe I have all the chances to get my axles before April 25th and also the new nose upgrade. If I get this one first, I will start fitting the front end.

On a side note, thought my 818 could be the fastest no-top car in the world at a theoretical 173ischmph (280kmh) using OEM Porsche ratios (could make 5th taller in a few years), but I guess I am not. And to "try" to be I'd have to buy one of these (probably all sold-out already):



Ok they tricked it a little by blocking some of the front bumper's scoops to increase speed, but hey they did it!

God Bless America (the real America), man, yo!


But seriously (well it was serious!), the Venom GT is truely my favourite car. And it's made in USA on top of that. Who said US couldn't build a non-plastic interior harsh suspension super fast car? And now super fast convertible car... Take THAT, Veyron.

[wleehendrick]

But seriously (well it was serious!), the Venom GT is truely my favourite car. And it's made in USA on top of that. Who said US couldn't build a non-plastic interior harsh suspension super fast car?

Thanks to Lotus!

Manufacturer Hennessey Performance Engineering
Model years 2011 – present
Assembly Hethel, England (chassis components)

[STiPWRD]

Frank, how come you need the axles to start the motor? Couldn't you just put in fluids and start it now? In the meantime, there is plenty of body work that can be had and letting the panels rest on the chassis is a great way for the fiberglass to "learn" its resting shape. You'll see that when you start putting stuff in place, there will be lots of test fitting, trimming, test fitting, trimming... etc. There's also stuff like installing the tail lights into the rear bumper, cutting out the side and top scoops.

[Frank818]

Yeah Lotus Exige, one beautiful car too, but it misses what the Venom has. lolll

STI, yeah I have started on cutting panels and fitting lights (it's boring loll), but since I need the front end to place the panels on the car I have to wait until I get my nose upgrade panels.

I need the axles to start the engine for a couple of reasons. Apparently, according to my mech, it's not good to start the engine without inertia on the gearbox (only that one or all gearboxes, don't know), the weight of the axles and force required to turn the bearings are needed. Maybe I could block the inner CVs from turning at all.

But also cuz I need to move the car. The rear is facing a wall very close in an area where air pressure goes straight to the door and into the inside of the shared spaces of the condo. It would also be very loud in that place in the garage (it was loud on my Corrado facing the other way around, away from the wall).

Those are the reasons. All in all, if I have enough time and I'm really committed to it, I could fit the rear spindles (which I need to remove to fit those axles), put wheels on, push the car outside, close the exterior garage door to prevent fumes coming in, start the car, stop the car, push it back in, remove spindles and that's it.

It is feasible, yes, but then I know I need to do it again, cuz I want to test the clutch engagement, roll in 1-2nd gears, test the brakes, steering, etc. Not sure going through twice is worth it, assuming I get the axles next week. If I don't have the axles on April 22nd, I could try that or start working on the new body panels. Then again I believe my time is better invested in the body rather than doing some job twice on the car (I know I'm already very good at that lolll).

But yes, I could start it without the axles.

[STiPWRD]

If it were me, I'd try to start it and let it run for 5 seconds but to each his own. I've never heard of inertia needing to be on a transmission in order to run the engine - that just doesn't make any sense to me but I'd be curious to know why if there is a real reason. Starting the engine would also be a great way to flush out your wiring.

[wleehendrick]

Apparently, according to my mech, it's not good to start the engine without inertia on the gearbox (only that one or all gearboxes, don't know), the weight of the axles and force required to turn the bearings are needed. Maybe I could block the inner CVs from turning at all.

Don't you normally start an engine with your foot on the clutch or in neutral? I don't understand how the presence, or lack of, the axles has anything to do with it.

[Frank818]

I know I know.... couldn't have a good explanation yet, something about the gears spinning freely is bad, but I too thought about the clutch thing. I'll make sure to ask this Saturday when I go at the shop to get my pink coolant and oils.

Either way good or bad doesn't matter cuz I can easily prevent them from spinning without the axles in. So far I should get the nose upgrade this Friday which means I will probably start bolting the front nose brackets and stuff like that. If time is with me, I'd check very quickly how my 2yo panels line up to give me an idea of the work ahead.

[Frank818]

Moving ahead!

Still waiting for my axles held at customs, but in the meantime I have completed my gauge cluster repair.

Following the diagram (sorry it's in French) I got the final module to bypass my cluster and give fuel level to the gauge. I can adjust the 0% and 100%, the needle will show wherever I want it to. Of course it won't drop under 100% until half a tank cuz I have FFR's tank but it'll work just like you guys.

2016-04-14 17.12.52_1.jpg2016-04-14 17.22.07_1.jpg2016-04-15 14.22.57_1.jpg2016-04-17 07.20.10_1.jpg


Then I got my nose upgrade. Big box.

2016-04-15 14.21.23_1.jpg


Now started on the nose brackets install and I'm stuck. Measuring the bottom bracket at 9/16 I am unsure if it's from the blue dots/line or the green dots/line and is it really to the outer edge of the bracket or the inner section just besides? I have asked metros he went through that already.

2016-04-17 09.46.59_1.jpg


I have all my fluids too, CAD$450 of fluids! I need to mix my coolant and it's ready to pour. I will wait until the last activity prior to start before I fill up all the fluids, just in case I need to remove something!! I have a week off starting April 23rd, the car will be ready then, if I don't have my axles I will start it anyway (for about a good 5-8mins until it warms up a little).

[svanlare]

Glad the fuel gauge is working. Between fluids and axels you should be ready for a start soon!

[JC Of NM]

Looking good, keep making updates for all of to see.

[Frank818]

I don't think I'll get my axles before my week off, still held at customs. This is just stupid.

To answer the Q about the need to have axles if I start the engine, it's if I want to engage gears. There's no problem to start it with foot on clutch and no prob to leave it running at idle. I can even press the clutch and engage 1st, but not remove foot, than put back to neutral and remove foot. I have to test 1st gear engagement since I couldn't make it when engine off, oddly.

I'm planning for a start before May 2nd. Oh crap, I don't have my outer CVs, they are on the axles at Customs. I think those I need in order to drop the car on its wheels. Obviously the OEM CVs don't fit in my bored out hubs...

[Frank818]

Hum, well they released my axles last night (will get it today or tom). I should be happy, but they charged me more than the declared value in Brokerage Fees. Over 100 bucks. This means I paid 100 bucks to have a 17 days delay. Since my taxes are paying the Customs agents' salary, this "service" should be free. How ironic for me to pay them a second time and then get a delay on delivery. I wlil see if I can contest this, after paying and having my axles, don't want to keep them held.

Beware all Canadians, if you build something custom, you will pay many 1000s for no logical reasons, add that in your build budget. + you will have delivery delays, plan well in advance.

Then some might say I should be happy cuz I'll start the car next week. Just saw the weather forecast, we might get a very cold period next week, starting this Sunday. If that's the case, I'll have to find the perfect moment to give it a twist, hopefully I will. God doesn't want me to complete this build, I am sure of that since a few months, now. But in this build, I am more powerful than God, I am my own God, I will decide what happens to my build.

[Frank818]

Major updates here.


These are my 3rd gen of axles.

2016-04-23 09.00.24_1.jpg2016-04-23 09.00.32_1.jpg

They clear perfect the spindle. Fit nice, axle nut no problem too.



In order to install the shorter left axle, the most problematic, I had to completely remove the suspension components or loosen them totally. So after 2.5h trying to install (not fit) the axle, it worked and then I started turning the hub. After a couple of turns, this happened:

2016-04-25 09.29.20_1.jpg

Yup, the ****ing boot popped right out! And then the cascade of issues started...



While I was trying to see how to put it back, I saw this:
2016-04-25 09.31.11_1.jpg


Yup, the ****ing shaft rubs hard on the CV boot cup. Due to the different design, the middle hole is much smaller than the CV's diameter, where the clip used to be on the first 2 gens. The shaft hits on the cup and bends it, causing the clip to come off with the help of the wide angle I need. You can see the bends here:

2016-04-25 13.28.48_1.jpg



My axles are so far back this is the angle it's at:

2016-04-25 15.02.39_1.jpg


Now after the entire alignment is messed up, I have no idea if these shafts will rub when the car will be on the ground, I don't know where the alignment should be and I don't know where's full extension. The problem is not under compression, it's under extension.

My ground clearance was set at 5in. I decided to lower it 1in, but I can't cuz the black rings onto which the springs sit are too tight due to the spring compression. When I turn the ring, the long black sleeve turns as well. Can't use a vice, the sleeve turns anyway! I'm stuck on that now.

Then I thought I could use the R ride height at the back, the distance between the S and R suspension holes is 1in and I need to raise the entire suspension components to clear the CV cups. I wonder if I can have S ride height at front and R in the back, with ground clearance being the same overall. Not sure.

My other option is to ship back for a 3rd time the axles and ask for the previous CV boot design. Then I need to grind a lot the spindle and maybe cutting an entire portion out of it (the portion with a small curvature on top of the very long lateral links' bolt).

Spent 8.5h today and I removed more than I installed.

One thing's for sure, the car ain't gonna start for a while. I knew the axles would be the biggest challenge, but that is now way more than just big... I'm exhausted about this thing.


I can't push the gearbox forward, it would hit on the 1.5in lateral bar (the one you guys have your engine mounts soldered onto).
I can't raise the engine and push it fwd, it will be worse on the CV boot.
I can't lower the gearbox, the starter is already under the frame and the bell housing is maybe 1/16 over the lateral frame bar.

[Hindsight]

Darn Frank, sorry to see so many snags!

That forward angle looks like it will be awfully hard on the CV joints. I'm thinking at this point that you may have to move the engine/transmission forward, and consider whatever frame modifications are required to make that happen.

[Frank818]

Thought about it, I'm ready to break a CV before I move onto major frame modifs. I would break the CV on track while I would test drive the car, so less dangerous than on the street.

Moving fwd I would lose all the FW bars. Even the 1.5in lateral one at the top where we bolt the inner top rear FW alu panel. That is serious as I would also need to modify the top rear FW alu panel and of course the fuel tank. We're talking 3in fwd, the engine would be 0.5in inside the cockpit, plus 2in more for the new bars design.
Then moving fwd may or may not fix the issue, if not, then the gearbox is high. Dropping it requires maybe 2in to get good clearance cuz it doesn't move a lot on the CV side. 2in lower and my starter would be at 2in from the ground. No way that's gonna work. Not mentioning completely re-designing the Subaru engine mount 1.5in lateral bar.

It's a complete re-design of the rear end if I do that, probably the body as well if I decide to lengthen the rear instead of moving the engine fwd. Actually that sounds easier than moving the engine fwd.

I'd rather get the old style CV boot, grind the spindles and see how it drives. With the old style CVs the movement was a little more so I would not bet at full angle.

[wleehendrick]

Wow, that's quite an angle... looks like you almost need a portal axle (rotated horizontal)!