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Thread: FFRSpec72 818R Build Seattle WA

  1. #41
    818 builder metalmaker12's Avatar
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    Nice engine!!!!!

  2. #42
    Tazio Nuvolari wannabe Scargo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sgt.Gator View Post
    I wish every nut and bolt was metric. It seems crazy that the kit parts are SAE and the donor parts are Metric. That will drive me insane trying to make repairs at a race track.
    I think this is a huge mistake on FFR's part. Is it because the SAE parts are cheaper and more plentiful?

  3. #43
    Senior Member Rasmus's Avatar
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    I think the rack and spindles will be the first things tackled on my R. Nice work there. What finish is on the spindles?

  4. #44
    Senior Member FFRSpec72's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rasmus View Post
    I think the rack and spindles will be the first things tackled on my R. Nice work there. What finish is on the spindles?
    I used POR 15 http://www.por15.com/BLACKCOTE_p_36.html as I use it on my challenge car and holds up very well
    Tony Nadalin
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  5. #45
    Senior Member wleehendrick's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scargo View Post
    I think this is a huge mistake on FFR's part. Is it because the SAE parts are cheaper and more plentiful?
    Probably because their supply chain is all built around SAE parts given their previous kits.

  6. #46
    Senior Member Xusia's Avatar
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    When I went to source some bolts separately, I found that the metric ones were significantly harder to come by in the higher grades than SAE. Still, it would be a nice upgrade option...

  7. #47
    818 builder metalmaker12's Avatar
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    I use Poe 15 or chassis saver brand, pretty much the same stuff

  8. #48
    Senior Member FFRSpec72's Avatar
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    More parts on the way

    I ordered my Wilwood Brake Kits, I only have $2000 to spend so was going to order the black 12" front/rear kit from FFR but found the red 12" from Autoplicity for cheaper than what FFR wanted for the black. So the I went for the Wilwood 140-9193-DR and the 140-7006-DR where just a tad over $1800 shipped.

    I also ordered my Mishimoto Aluminum Performance Radiator MMRAD-WRX-01 from AutoAnything for just under $250 shipped, so the savings on the brakes pretty much paid for the new radiator.

    I'm going with the StopTech brake line kit (front and rear) for just under $100 shipped form AutoAnything.
    Last edited by FFRSpec72; 02-17-2014 at 01:10 PM.
    Tony Nadalin
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  9. #49
    Senior Member Rasmus's Avatar
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    Autoplicity prices are hard to beat.

  10. #50
    Senior Member FFRSpec72's Avatar
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    I just boxed up all my wire harness (big box 18x18x20) and sent all 49lbs of it off to a service to get it dieted into something I can use, this should be an experience

    WP_20140126_012.jpg
    Last edited by FFRSpec72; 02-21-2014 at 07:11 PM.
    Tony Nadalin
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  11. #51
    Senior Member FFRSpec72's Avatar
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    One step closer

    818AtTheDock.jpg
    Tony Nadalin
    2018 SOVREN Big Bore Champion
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  12. #52
    Senior Member EODTech87's Avatar
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    Your bare frame looks so clean it almost looks powdercoated.

  13. #53
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    Congrats on the new kit!

    One comment about the Whiteline KTA109 rear trailing arms. I ran these for about 6 years on my daily driver wrx and they worked great but did end up rusting and seizing up eventually. So don't be afraid to coat them with WD40 or some sort of other rust inhibitor from time to time. Granted, your R probably won't see as much rain or snow as my daily driver did.

  14. #54
    Sgt.Gator's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scargo View Post
    I think this is a huge mistake on FFR's part. Is it because the SAE parts are cheaper and more plentiful?
    I don't know the reason, my guess is institutional momentum. SAE parts are not going to do well for the "World Car" concept. I doubt SAE bolts/nuts are plentiful or cheap in most other countries.

  15. #55
    Senior Member Xusia's Avatar
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    Good point.

  16. #56
    Tazio Nuvolari wannabe Scargo's Avatar
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    Excellent point. FFR, are you listening? I think being a "World Class", "World Car" kit car maker would be of interest.

  17. #57
    Sgt.Gator's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scargo View Post
    Excellent point. FFR, are you listening? I think being a "World Class", "World Car" kit car maker would be of interest.
    I sure hope so. Right on the first page of the 818 page:

    "New Markets: It’s a global marketplace and the 818 is destined to bring the Factory Five experience to a whole new group of people, not just in the U.S., but all over the world. Designed to be affordable to build, right or left-hand drive capable, and with components that are readily available in other countries, the 818 is Factory Five’s first “World Car”. But it’s not just exporting the FFR experience to other countries… at the same time we are also inviting an entire new generation of Subaru-knowledgeable car-builders to the Factory Five community."
    https://www.factoryfive.com/kits/project-818/

    How's SAE going to work in that program?

    Sorry for the thread hijack.....back to the real subject of the build now.

  18. #58
    Senior Member Xusia's Avatar
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    While I think metric hardware would be a very nice thing to do, they do SHIP the SAE hardware with the kit, so it's not like those in foreign countries would need to go hunting for them...

  19. #59
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    So then you would just need to buy a new set of tools.

  20. #60
    Senior Member Canadian818's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Xusia View Post
    While I think metric hardware would be a very nice thing to do, they do SHIP the SAE hardware with the kit, so it's not like those in foreign countries would need to go hunting for them...
    They don't send the sockets and wrenches, :/
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  21. #61
    Senior Member FFRSpec72's Avatar
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    The Wilwood brake kits (front and rear) came from Autoplicity today, all intact and great price, saved like $500 over FFR price.


    Engine/transmission on the way, JDM EJ207v7 and JDM 5sp (TY754VBBAA) with 4.444 final drive.

    DSC_6676.jpg


    So still have to get new clutch/pressure plate and flywheel and timing belt kit w/water pump, looking at GATES Part # TCKWP328A {#WPK43513} 7 Components (1 Belt, 1 Hydraulic Tensioner, 4 Idlers, 1 Water Pump) PowerGrip Premium OE Timing Belt Component Kit W/Water Pump
    Last edited by FFRSpec72; 03-01-2014 at 07:44 PM.
    Tony Nadalin
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  22. #62
    Tazio Nuvolari wannabe Scargo's Avatar
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    It probably won't make any difference to how your stock engine cools, but the Subaru water pump PN 21111AA026 performs better than the Gates pump or others with the "open paddle wheel" design as is the pump on the right in the picture.
    wrx-stiwaterpumps001-4254761.jpg
    Last edited by Scargo; 03-02-2014 at 07:10 AM.

  23. #63
    Senior Member FFRSpec72's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scargo View Post
    It probably won't make any difference to how your stock engine cools, but the Subaru water pump PN 21111AA026 performs better than the Gates pump or others with the "open paddle wheel" design as is the pump on the right in the picture.
    Thanks, I will look into this as I believe in the most cooling potential I can get for the track. I assume it fits a JDM 207 engine?
    Tony Nadalin
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    FFR MkII Challenge Car, Spec Racer, Street Legal, SCCA, ICSCC and NASA Racing
    818R Build in progress

  24. #64
    Tazio Nuvolari wannabe Scargo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FFRSpec72 View Post
    ... I believe in the most cooling potential I can get for the track. I assume it fits a JDM 207 engine?
    Yes. This may be very helpful to you, as an EJ207 engine owner. Ankur's Garage Part number Compendium.
    I thought I knew a lot about engines till I had an ah-ha moment about the oil. Please excuse me if I am saying something amateurish.
    Oil circulating is like our blood circulating. Blood movement cools our body, more-so than sweat. Oil cooling is just as important as water to me as a racer. It's amazing the temperature correlation between the two that I'm seeing. One helps the other.

  25. #65
    818 builder metalmaker12's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FFRSpec72 View Post
    Thanks, I will look into this as I believe in the most cooling potential I can get for the track. I assume it fits a JDM 207 engine?
    Back some months ago or more we covered this somewhere on here lol, try to find it. Most JDM Engines and early Wrx usdms have the closed style pump which far better than the open fan style. My Version 8 ej207 has the closed style, I am 90 percent sure yours came with it, but obviously double check. If it got changed or you want a new one just get the old style with the part number provided. Also get the subie water pump gasket, the gates is paper crap.

  26. #66
    Senior Member FFRSpec72's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scargo View Post
    Yes. This may be very helpful to you, as an EJ207 engine owner. Ankur's Garage Part number Compendium.
    great link, many thanks
    Tony Nadalin
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    2015 SCCA Oregon Region VP3 Champion
    2012 ICSCC ITE Class Champion
    FFR MkII Challenge Car, Spec Racer, Street Legal, SCCA, ICSCC and NASA Racing
    818R Build in progress

  27. #67
    Senior Member FFRSpec72's Avatar
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    Engine and transmission have been shipped

    DSC_6928.jpgDSC_6932.jpg
    Tony Nadalin
    2018 SOVREN Big Bore Champion
    2015 SCCA Oregon Region VP3 Champion
    2012 ICSCC ITE Class Champion
    FFR MkII Challenge Car, Spec Racer, Street Legal, SCCA, ICSCC and NASA Racing
    818R Build in progress

  28. #68
    Senior Member FFRSpec72's Avatar
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    My 2000lb per rack (8000lb total), Gladiator shelf came in today, so all set to accept the boxes when they deliver the 818

    WP_20140311_001.jpg
    Tony Nadalin
    2018 SOVREN Big Bore Champion
    2015 SCCA Oregon Region VP3 Champion
    2012 ICSCC ITE Class Champion
    FFR MkII Challenge Car, Spec Racer, Street Legal, SCCA, ICSCC and NASA Racing
    818R Build in progress

  29. #69
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    The JDM ej207...ahhh, how sweet is that thing! Seems that only a handful of us are going with it, and that seems insane to me. This is the engine for an R-car. Nice pick Tony! But of course I'm biased as this is the engine I'm going with as well. ST2 power levels in stock trim...add e85, crank up the boost (swap injectors), and you've got ST1 levels. Man I love that engine!

    Best,
    -j
    Last edited by Santiago; 03-12-2014 at 02:35 PM.
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  30. #70
    818 builder metalmaker12's Avatar
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    Ditto!! On board and I am the first to put it in an 818

  31. #71
    Senior Member Rasmus's Avatar
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    Nice rack. You're gonna fill it up so fast.

  32. #72
    Senior Member FFRSpec72's Avatar
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    Engine and transmission arrived today w/o damage, delivered into my garage

    EJ207v7EngineArrived.jpg
    Tony Nadalin
    2018 SOVREN Big Bore Champion
    2015 SCCA Oregon Region VP3 Champion
    2012 ICSCC ITE Class Champion
    FFR MkII Challenge Car, Spec Racer, Street Legal, SCCA, ICSCC and NASA Racing
    818R Build in progress

  33. #73
    818 builder metalmaker12's Avatar
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    Nice, looks familiar

  34. #74
    Senior Member FFRSpec72's Avatar
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    OK, after seeing a co-workers oil pickup in his 07 Sti break, I have decided to go with an STi oil pan, Killer B pickup and baffle, I was on the fence about this but the damage caused was something I don't want to see and since this is a race car it will even go through worse conditions. So all that is now ordered.
    Tony Nadalin
    2018 SOVREN Big Bore Champion
    2015 SCCA Oregon Region VP3 Champion
    2012 ICSCC ITE Class Champion
    FFR MkII Challenge Car, Spec Racer, Street Legal, SCCA, ICSCC and NASA Racing
    818R Build in progress

  35. #75
    Tazio Nuvolari wannabe Scargo's Avatar
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    I hope all racers think an oil cooler is a necessity. I have one, a thermostatic valve, Accusump and a remote filter block on my STi. Nine quart total capacity.
    Recently I removed the oil heater where I had perched my Canton oil filter bypass block.
    074-22-597.jpg
    I removed this:

    Now, my oil lines have a straight shot towards the front and clear the header pipes a lot better. To do this you must block off the water lines or put a jumper hose between the nippled block plug and the water pump. You can also buy the plain Subaru block plug # 11021AA121. I chose to put a pipe plug where the nipple was and block off a very short length of the water pump return hose because I didn't want to pull the water pump off to drill and tap it. See last photo.
    You will also need a short shaft, Subaru part #15018AA050, to replace the long one shown above.

    Another option is to just use the outlet of the adapter block and return the oil to the top (by the dipstick) on a Moroso pan, or to the bottom, next to the drain hole, on a KillerB pan.
    image1046.jpg

    Recently I bought this cap, or block-off plate, to take oil out of the oil filter area or just close it off. Moroso adapter 23815 - Moroso Oil Filter Block Off Plate.
    41t7Vx-JY-L.jpg
    This lets you get the outlet line far away from the exhaust by going down first. The area is cleaner still. The outlet hose can drop straight down and away, clearing the headers by 2-1/2 inches. I'd probably still sleeve the oil line again. The return line can angle in from above and enter with a 45° or 90° and be well away from the headers. Where does the oil come out if you block it off? Good question. I think just below the oil pressure sensor on the main galley, but I haven't confirmed this yet.

    This is similar, but they've left the filter in the stock location and used a piece of scrap metal tubing from cooling plumbing on top to create the bypass. Not that clean and the headers go right by there. That's also why I like to get the filter out of there; it's surrounded by red-hot pipes. One friend has already had an oil fire in this area while on the track.
    Photo0182.jpg

  36. #76
    Senior Member FFRSpec72's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scargo View Post
    I hope all racers think an oil cooler is a necessity.
    Thanks for the write up, I use one on my Challenge car (I use the top Canton remote filter), mainly due to the fact that I originally had cooling problems and installed the oil cooler to help. I still have it but no longer have a cooling problem. I was going to look into the options for the Subaru (you now saved me some searching). I may or may not install something before I race, as I want to see what the temps are and then decide. Once again thanks!
    Last edited by FFRSpec72; 03-14-2014 at 04:51 PM.
    Tony Nadalin
    2018 SOVREN Big Bore Champion
    2015 SCCA Oregon Region VP3 Champion
    2012 ICSCC ITE Class Champion
    FFR MkII Challenge Car, Spec Racer, Street Legal, SCCA, ICSCC and NASA Racing
    818R Build in progress

  37. #77
    Senior Member FFRSpec72's Avatar
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    Engine on stand now

    WP_20140316_013.jpg

    Removed the AC and PS

    WP_20140316_020.jpg

    Transmission on shelf

    WP_20140316_003.jpg
    Tony Nadalin
    2018 SOVREN Big Bore Champion
    2015 SCCA Oregon Region VP3 Champion
    2012 ICSCC ITE Class Champion
    FFR MkII Challenge Car, Spec Racer, Street Legal, SCCA, ICSCC and NASA Racing
    818R Build in progress

  38. #78
    Senior Member FFRSpec72's Avatar
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    Car will be delivered tomorrow, would have been today but driver had reached his drive limits so will stay in Portland for the night.
    Tony Nadalin
    2018 SOVREN Big Bore Champion
    2015 SCCA Oregon Region VP3 Champion
    2012 ICSCC ITE Class Champion
    FFR MkII Challenge Car, Spec Racer, Street Legal, SCCA, ICSCC and NASA Racing
    818R Build in progress

  39. #79
    Senior Member FFRSpec72's Avatar
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    Car was delivered, took 2 hours to get it off the truck, what a disaster.


    Trying to get the hoist to work

    WP_20140317_005.jpg

    In my garage next to the challenge car

    WP_20140317_006.jpg
    Tony Nadalin
    2018 SOVREN Big Bore Champion
    2015 SCCA Oregon Region VP3 Champion
    2012 ICSCC ITE Class Champion
    FFR MkII Challenge Car, Spec Racer, Street Legal, SCCA, ICSCC and NASA Racing
    818R Build in progress

  40. #80
    Senior Member Rasmus's Avatar
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    That must have been a nightmare.

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