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Thread: JeromeS13's 818S

  1. #1
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    JeromeS13's 818S

    Well, I guess it's time to start a build thread...

    I've been in the Subaru family since 2009. I previously had a 2008 Subaru Impreza STi that I purchased nearly stock (had a Cobb Accessport). After getting pretty heavy into HPDE with NASA AZ, the car was eventually turned into a completely gutted Time Attack car.







    Well, the car was making almost 500 AWHP and apparently I have bad luck with motors... After breaking a few, I decided that I wanted to change to a lighter platform, which would require less power/stress to go fast. That's when I stumbled across the Factory Five Racing Project 818.

    I placed my pre-order for my 818S on 7 December 2012. Initially, I had a build date of 14 February 2014. After Factory Five established a "Hot List" for people who wanted to get theirs quicker (due to other people cancelling or pushing their production dates back), I ended up with a final production date of 9 November 2013!!!

    I purchased my donor (2006 WRX with 123k miles) in May 2013 from Copart for $4,800 (includes shipping). The car had a fair amount of front end damage, which didn't really concern me because I have planned on upgrading the shortblock and heads from the beginning.



    So far, I've sold $3,150 worth of parts from the donor. So, I'm only into my donor for $1,650. Off to a good start.

    818 Parts List
    Engine

    LIC Motorsports B1 Short Block (2.5L)
    B25 Heads (’06 WRX)
    Supertech Valves / Springs / Titanium Retainers
    LIC Motorsports Timing Belt Idlers
    LIC Motorsports Air Pump Delete Kit
    ARP Head Studs
    Gates Timing Belt Kit
    Grimmspeed Crank Pulley
    Cosworth TGV Deletes
    Moroso Oil Pickup
    OEM ’06 WRX Oil Pump
    Tomei Turbo Inlet
    Custom Extended Intake / Intercooler Piping / Exhaust (Fathead Fabrication)
    JDM VF37 Twin Scroll Turbo / Header / Uppipe
    Boyd Welding Aluminum Fuel Tank
    Cusco Engine Mounts
    FrozenBoost Type 3 Air-to-Water Intercooler
    FrozenBoost Type 118 Heat Exchanger
    FrozenBoost Reservoir

    Suspension

    VeryCoolParts Trailing Arms
    Whiteline Rear Lateral Links
    ARP Wheel Studs
    Perrin Fuel Rail Kit
    TurboSmart FPR-1200 Fuel Pressure Regulator
    Injector Dynamics 1000cc Injectors
    TurboSmart Race Port Blowoff Valve
    Cobb Accessport w/ Snail Performance Pro Tune
    NGK LFR7AIX Spark Plugs
    ReplicaParts.com Alternator Mount Kit
    ReplicaParts.com Brake/Clutch Master Cylinder Remove Reservoir Kit
    Zero Decibel Motorsports Upper Coolant Reservoir Relocation Kit
    Zero Decibel Motorsports Upper Radiator Brackets
    Deka ETX14 Battery (11 lbs)

    Drivetrain

    VeryCoolParts K-Tuned Shifter
    Cusco Transmission Mount
    Rori’s Shifter Rod Arm
    Rori’s Push/Pull Bracket
    2012 WRX Transmission

    Brakes

    OEM 4/2 Pot Brakes (’06 WRX)
    Centric Premium Rotors
    Centric PosiQuiet Pads (Street)
    Hawk Blue Pads (Track)
    Stainless Braided Lines
    ATE Type 200 Brake Fluid
    Exterior
    Enkei Kojin 17x8 +45 (10mm spacers) Front
    Enkei Kojin 18x9.5 +45 (13mm spacers) Rear
    Federal 595 RS-R 235/40/17 Front
    Federal 595 RS-R 265/35/18 Rear

    Interior

    AiM Sport MXL Pista Digital Dash
    Sparco 353 Steering Wheel
    Sparco Steering Wheel Hub
    Sparco Ergo M Driver Seat
    Sparco Evo II Passenger Seat
    Rori’s Steering Column Spacer
    Sparco 6 Point Harnesses (Driver is HANS version)

    Last edited by JeromeS13; 05-28-2014 at 11:18 PM.

  2. #2
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    Prep Work:

    Replaced all bearings/seals, painted hubs and installed ARP wheel studs:

    Before:



    After:





    Cleaned and painted transmission:



    Cleaned nuts/bolts by soaking in vinegar, then placing in a vibratory tumbler. Finally had them coated with black oxide to prevent rust/corrosion. I don't have a picture prior the vinegar or before the tumbling.

    After tumbling:



    After coating:


  3. #3
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    Disassembled and had my calipers, valve covers and intake manifold coated (Thanks Ken and Jay!):







    And cleaned up my control arms:



    Had the heads decked and cleaned. Starting to rebuild them with Supertech stock sized valves and 64 lb dual valve springs.



    Pretty cool tool from Company23. Makes installing valves fairly easy.




  4. #4
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    And got a present from Noah and Adam at LIC Motorsports. It's their B1 shortblock assembly (OEM shortblock with upgraded JE Pistons):



    My turbo setup will be a JDM twin scroll VF37 setup:


  5. #5
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    Finally got the CAR!!!!

    Day 1... Went through and verified the inventory. Unfortunately, some of the parts are back ordered. :-/

    Sooooo many boxes!!!





    Next step. Remove all of the temporarily installed body parts, aluminum pieces, dash, windshield, etc.




  6. #6
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    Bare chassis:







    Then, start fitting, marking, drilling panels. Rivets for days!!!






  7. #7
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    Prepping firewall panels. Scuffed them with a Scotchbrite pad and cleaned with brake parts cleaner:



    Sprayed with 2 coats of Rustoleum truck bedliner (has a grainy, sandpaper-ish texture):



    All panels painted, sealed and installed:



    Lots of rivets...



    Just playing around and comparing the two shifters. The plastic one on the left is the FFR supplied unit. The one on the right is a K-Tuned billet piece from Wayne @ VeryCoolParts.


  8. #8
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    Day 3:

    Not much to do today. I just installed the mid/forward interior panels. With these, I wanted to try something different. The Rustoleum bed liner was ok, but it was fairly inconsistent and left SOME striping. In the interior, I tried the bed liner spray from Dupli-Color. It has more of a soft rubber feels and it takes FOREVER to dry. I ended up just installing them after about 3 hours of drying (and I still left some fingerprints in some areas....) If I had to do it over again, I would have stuck with the Rustoleum...







    Placed some EZ Cool (from lobucrod.com) under the tank. I'll also be placing some of this in various places to dissipate heat transfer.



    Tank installed (from Boyd Welding):


  9. #9
    818 builder metalmaker12's Avatar
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    With any bed liner on aluminum I recommend a primer first, at least a flap wheel sand with 60 to have any good results. For roll on herculiner is good, for spray, sem, for sent out liner x

  10. #10
    AZPete's Avatar
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    Great start, Jerome. I look forward to seeing more of your fine work as you progress. Aarrgh, at the rate you're going I think my 818S will not be the first one on AZ roads. I sent a PM asking if you still have the donor HVAC system. If so, I'll buy.
    Pete
    818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities.
    Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).

  11. #11
    Senior Member 68GT500MAN's Avatar
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    You are off to a great start.
    Doug

  12. #12
    Senior Member waruaki's Avatar
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    Nice build!

  13. #13
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Beautiful!!!

    Though I thought the alu control arms were only on the NA 2006. Oh well anyway who cares you got them.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 GT3582R ~400whp/wtq+
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017

    Bulid time, including registration 3283.5h in 148 work week time and 3.5 years elapsed

  14. #14
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    Frank,

    The aluminum control arms came on the 2006 WRX Sedan only, as far as I know.

  15. #15
    Senior Member riptide motorsport's Avatar
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    Congrats............nice work too.
    FFR Daytona Type 65 Coupe
    67 427 Cobra
    57' Belair
    72 Pinto Wagon ,306" 1/4 miler
    34 5 window coupe Ford
    2003 Mustang GT
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    All toys still in the Scuderia!


    Every Saint has a past..................every sinner a future

    Don't take yourself so seriously........no one else does.

    You never see a motorcycle parked outside a Psychiatrists office.

  16. #16
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Sorry Jerome I was mixing up with the Z25 heads which came only on the 2005 NA. So nothing to do with 2006 and nothing to do with WRX. lolll
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 GT3582R ~400whp/wtq+
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017

    Bulid time, including registration 3283.5h in 148 work week time and 3.5 years elapsed

  17. #17
    818 builder metalmaker12's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JeromeS13 View Post
    And got a present from Noah and Adam at LIC Motorsports. It's their B1 shortblock assembly (OEM shortblock with upgraded JE Pistons):



    My turbo setup will be a JDM twin scroll VF37 setup:


    Yea man, awesome too see another twin scroller

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by metalmaker12 View Post
    Yea man, awesome too see another twin scroller
    You're using a EJ20 though? Hopefully I'll get stupid throttle/boost response with an EJ25. :-D

  19. #19
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    Day 4:

    Another slow day today. Still waiting on parts from the powder coater.... I did manage to install the pedal box, some suspension arms and temporarily install the steering column (I sent the spacers for powder).





    Oh, and the coolant tubes are in:



    Then Santa came early:





    I do wish that the crossbars for the seat allowed using standard aftermarket seat rails... I'll have to come up with something to mount the seat rails to, along with some anchor points for the 6 point harnesses...

    More to come!

  20. #20
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    Day 5:

    Well, today was a little more productive. :-D

    I got my front and rear brakes installed, along with the hubs. (I'm still waiting on my Whiteline adjustable lateral links).





    Also installed my steering rack (will be replacing the bushings with Whiteline bushings).



    Installed the throttle pedal and fully installed the steering column. I was trying to not use a quick release... Looks like I might need one after all, or just a thicker hub... Hmm...



    I also got the seat fully installed. Ended up using 1/4" aluminum to mount the Sparco rails to. The rear mounting point goes through the 1x1 section of the chassis, the aluminum, and the Sparco rails. It also looks like I'll be able to use the upper 2x2 bar as my anchor points for my 6 point harnesses. :-D


  21. #21
    818 builder metalmaker12's Avatar
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    Yea ej207, the heads flow great numbers for higher rev range, which is what I was going for. I have seen 8k already with the cart, let's just say, damnnnn fast. It's got power everywhere since it is so lite, but say 2,500-8k, it is like you get hit by a train and thrown forward and than kinda lwarp speed, it's like a 600 street bike launch feeling , but your on the ground and it's four wheels.

  22. #22
    818 builder metalmaker12's Avatar
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    Btw, sweet seats and wheel, I am putting a similar wheel on once I get a little further

  23. #23
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Are those VCP's rear trailing arms?

    And I see your steering rack's bellows are not crushed, on either side. They look perfect. You don't have the problem some others had?
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 GT3582R ~400whp/wtq+
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017

    Bulid time, including registration 3283.5h in 148 work week time and 3.5 years elapsed

  24. #24
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    Thanks guys.

    @Frank. Everything is just lined up by eye on the rack. It looks like both hubs are pointed straight and the rack should be centered. Hopefully I'm good. :-D

  25. #25
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    Do you mind taking a picture of your seat mounts? I ordered a similar style and would like a visual aid to help with install. Great job on your build so far.

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by GUNS View Post
    Do you mind taking a picture of your seat mounts? I ordered a similar style and would like a visual aid to help with install. Great job on your build so far.
    I think you can get the idea from these pictures... If not, let me know. Looks like I'll be needing some longer bolts when I install the floor aluminum.



  27. #27
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    Thanks!

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    Senior Member RM1SepEx's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frank818 View Post
    Are those VCP's rear trailing arms?

    And I see your steering rack's bellows are not crushed, on either side. They look perfect. You don't have the problem some others had?
    slide off the rack boots and see where the inner tie rod pivots are... The steering wheel has just over 3 turns, lock to lock, easy to make sure that it is in the middle. The inner tie rods are the travel stops. You should see just over 2.5 inches sticking out of each side when the rack is centered.
    Dan

    818S #17 Picked up 8/1/13 First start 11/1/13 Go Kart 3/28/14

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by RM1SepEx View Post
    slide off the rack boots and see where the inner tie rod pivots are... The steering wheel has just over 3 turns, lock to lock, easy to make sure that it is in the middle. The inner tie rods are the travel stops. You should see just over 2.5 inches sticking out of each side when the rack is centered.
    Then, yes. It's centered.

  30. #30
    fasterer and furiouser longislandwrx's Avatar
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    20131123_093334_zpsb850f71f.jpg

    If you haven't done so already, i'd put a bolt through the seat rail here so you have two points on each side tied directly to the frame.
    A well stocked beverage fridge is the key to any successful project.

  31. #31
    Senior Member RM1SepEx's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JeromeS13 View Post
    Then, yes. It's centered.
    when I centered mine I had almost no threads visible at the left outer tie rod end and only 2 threads inserted on the right!
    Dan

    818S #17 Picked up 8/1/13 First start 11/1/13 Go Kart 3/28/14

  32. #32
    Senior Member C.Plavan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by longislandwrx View Post
    20131123_093334_zpsb850f71f.jpg

    If you haven't done so already, i'd put a bolt through the seat rail here so you have two points on each side tied directly to the frame.
    It looks as if he has one father back.
    Thanks- Chad
    818R-SOLD!!!- Go Karted 7/20/14/ Officially raced NASA ST2- 2/28/15
    2016 Elan NP01 Prototype Racecar Chassis #20
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  33. #33
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    Not much to report from this weekend. I decided to take a break and relax a bit.

    Day 7:

    Started assembling the motor. Started with a sweet B1 short block assembly (OEM short block with JE pistons) from LIC Motorsports. The block has all matching BB cylinders. I just need to clean and paint a few things and I'll finish buttoning it up this week. Hopefully it'll be in the car by this weekend. :-D








  34. #34
    Mechie3's Avatar
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    Your oil sensor might hit the tmic hose there. I use a remote mount kit for mine.
    Zero Decibel Motorsports
    Check out my new website!
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  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mechie3 View Post
    Your oil sensor might hit the tmic hose there. I use a remote mount kit for mine.
    I'll be running an AWIC, similar to Wayne's.

  36. #36
    fasterer and furiouser longislandwrx's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by C.Plavan View Post
    It looks as if he has one father back.
    Yes but it looks like only one goes through bracket/aluminum stock/frame.
    A well stocked beverage fridge is the key to any successful project.

  37. #37
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    I actually need to move the seat forward 2 inches or so. At that point, the seat rails will only be over the two points that longislandwrx previously pointed out...

  38. #38
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    Started installing my rear firewall. The lower section will be permanently mounted, but the top section will be removable. I'm using 1/4" button head bolts and rivnuts. I'll probably be having these powder coated wrinkle black, since they'll be fully exposed.



    Also got the clutch and brake master cylinders in, as well as the front section of the clutch line and the rear brake line. The brake line was the first one that I did, as can be seen by the super nasty looking bend going into the chassis.





    Worked on assembling the engine a little more. All of the main parts are mounted. I've also started looking at how I want to route the harness. I'll get everything running first, then I'll cut out more of the engine harness.





    Oh, this is how much I've already cut out of the entire wiring harness. It's about 16 lbs worth.


  39. #39
    Senior Member Canadian818's Avatar
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    Thats quite the rats nest!
    Adam __________________ Instagram @brap818
    818 SRX - #91
    Arrived 01/02/2014
    First Start 10/31/2016
    First Drive 05/22/2017
    My widebody 13b-REW powered build thread

  40. #40

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    How the heck do you know what to take out and not compromise the ECU...where is that described...or have I missed it?

    BC

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