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Thread: Quiny's 818s build

  1. #81
    Senior Member RM1SepEx's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Quiny View Post
    Picked up an aftermarket transmission mount. It should reduce engine rocking with the added benefit of being 1/4" thinner so it will level out the engine a bit more. It's really heavy, not something you would want to add if your looking to reduce weight.
    Attachment 35739

    Here is a question for someone ahead of me, do these triangular front door cavity block off pieces go with the lip covering the fiberglass or on the inside of the fiberglass. They fit better on the inside but I think it would look better with the fiberglass edge hidden.
    Attachment 35740Attachment 35741
    cover the fiberglass
    Dan

    818S #17 Picked up 8/1/13 First start 11/1/13 Go Kart 3/28/14

  2. #82
    Senior Member Quiny's Avatar
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    I haven't been able to do much lately but here is my progress to date. I have the rear fiberglass mounted roughly where it will stay, still fighting with the front fenders and nose. I just seen to have to force the fenders more than I think I should to get them to line up. It's too cold to think about any body repairs but I figure I should have everything ready for the spring. I wired and installed the headlights and taillights. I may have to do something different for the plate light, they are not long enough to illuminate the front of the plate using the FFR supplied bracket. Other than that everything worked well, blinker speed, reverse lights, hazards, etc.. Being in Massachusetts I will need a front plate as well, at least for the inspection. Here are some pics to date.
    101_0977.JPG101_0978.JPG101_0979.JPG

    I did run into an issue with the windshield cowl. The only way for me to get the recommended dimensions is to cut out the area around the master cylinder reservoir. I was planning on getting the wiper kit and I don't want the cutout to show. I was planning on using Mike's relocation kit at some point so maybe I should do it now. Any one know if the cutout will show with the wipers? Any suggestions?
    101_0976.JPG

  3. #83
    Senior Member Quiny's Avatar
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    My build has slowed a bit since starting the nose and fenders. It has been a little frustrating so I have been switching between the car and other household projects. I did need to add an aluminum angle extension on the nose to allow the fiberglass to mount to something. I also had to trim the hood and fenders a lot where they meet the windshield cowl. I still have some fine tuning to do but it's good enough to start on the doors. I found that my Dremel using the drum sander was the most useful tool for the trimming. It's funny I very rarely used them but I have a bunch of them that I have acquired over the years. They last a long time and remove a lot of fiberglass so be careful. A belt sander did a nice job of trimming the edges to make the hood sit flush to the fenders. For those of you struggling with the nose my recommendation is go slow and remember its easier to remove material than put it back. I also noticed that how the windshield cowl is mounted makes a big difference in how the fenders and hood get trimmed. I set the windscreen according to the manual update and found that I almost needed more finished black area on the cowl, I was right at the very bottom. See pics below.

    101_0996.JPG101_0997.JPG101_0998.JPG101_0999.JPG101_1000.JPG101_1001.JPG101_1002.JPG

  4. #84
    Senior Member RM1SepEx's Avatar
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    You will need to trim a bunch off the return on the back edge of those fenders for your doors to open... I'm not sure why they leave so much, it needs to be almost all removed esp at the bottom
    Dan

    818S #17 Picked up 8/1/13 First start 11/1/13 Go Kart 3/28/14

  5. #85
    Senior Member wleehendrick's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Quiny View Post
    I found that my Dremel using the drum sander was the most useful tool for the trimming. It's funny I very rarely used them but I have a bunch of them that I have acquired over the years. They last a long time and remove a lot of fiberglass so be careful.
    Agreed... good tip (that's what I've used a lot). However, it can end up a bit wavy, since it's such a small diameter it's hard to make a clean straight edge. I clean it up afterwards with hand files.

  6. #86

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    Nomination for Quote of the Month:
    Quiny: "I'm not sure how my wife will respond to stealing the shower curtain rod for a hood prop, maybe she won't notice."
    (From Everson's engine cover thread)
    818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities.
    Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).

  7. #87
    Senior Member Quiny's Avatar
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    Started a new job so progress has been slow. I have fitted all the body panels, very slow going. I ended up with pretty good gaps and I installed the front wheel well aluminum. I was able to get the little triangular piece that is supposed to fit behind the door near the top. It took a lot of trimming. It needs to be fitted with the side sails on and the door striker and bracket removed.
    101_0011.JPG101_0012.JPG101_0013.JPG

  8. #88
    Senior Member Quiny's Avatar
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    Progress is still slow, been traveling a lot. I do manage to get a few hours here and there. I have stripped the body off to make some fiberglass repairs. I'm hoping santa brings me the new style nose. I also did not like that parking switch on top of the steering column so I removed it and patched the hole.IMG_0041.JPGIMG_0058.JPG

  9. #89
    Senior Member Quiny's Avatar
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    Well its been 2 years and yes is still isn't done, but it's not a race. I have been so busy at work and life that the car needed to take the back seat. I have had a little time here and there so I did get the interior done. I have started to reinstall the body but I made everything removable with screws. It would have gone a lot faster to just rivet everything in place. Things went really fast when it was a father son project but both my boys are working on there future at school now. I am working on the rear wheal well sheet metal, I have not seen a lot about it. Any advice? Do the sheet metal tabs go inside or outside the body? It seems like if I make everything fit well the there will be very little room for wheel travel. Any completed pictures or advice would be appreciated.fender.JPGinterior.JPG

  10. #90
    Moonlight Performance
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    Wow there's a name I haven't seen in a while. Welcome back. Glad you are sticking with it.

    I found it easiest to mount the splash guards with the tabs on the outside. The splash guards are a pain to fit and I had to extend mine to get them to work. I think I have pics in my build thread. I also had to mount them up higher than shown in the build manual to allow for tire and wheel clearance.

  11. #91
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Revived from the dead! Glad you are. I like your S/W btw.

    There isn't much room for the wheel to travel. especially if you have 265s and not modified anything around.

    Unlike Jeff, I fitted mine with the tabs on the INSIDE of the bumper, like on your pic. But I needed to extend that tab a little bit otherwise the metal was stretching too much and it was causing a huge gap, just like on your pic! So I extend it in a way there would be no stretching on the alu.

    I have pix on my build thread, but finding them is another story...
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 GT3582R ~400whp/wtq+
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017

    Bulid time, including registration 3283.5h in 148 work week time and 3.5 years elapsed

  12. #92
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    Good to see your name again. You've been on my mind and I've meant to get in touch. We never expected to have completed our build before you. I don't know what the right approach is, but we mounted our rear splash guards inside the bumper with rivnuts. We let the splash guard follow the contour of the inner fender liner which means there is a gap between the inner part of the splash guard lip and bumper, but that seems preferable to where the gap is on yours. We used the Zero dB mounting tabs which worked very well. No issues with tires rubbing, but did have to do some trimming of the inner liners to clear suspension. Sorry, no pics handy. You'll have to stop by and take a look.
    Ivan

  13. #93
    Senior Member Quiny's Avatar
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    Hey Ivan great to hear from you. I will need to stop by and see your build. I have been so busy at work that I allowed my kit to build some dust for some time. Things are starting to get back to normal so I have some time now.

  14. #94
    Senior Member Quiny's Avatar
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    A few updates, I almost have the rear fiberglass completely fitted. It takes great patience but if you fit it, then adjust, and adjust, and adjust, and adjust, eventually it comes together. They key is make nothing permanent until everything is set. You definitely need to handle the nose all by itself after the doors back. I made some changes to some of the sheet metal. It did start and run great after sitting so long. Took the dash out to make fitting all the fiberglass easier.
    IMG_1749.JPG
    IMG_1750.JPGIMG_1748.JPGIMG_1749.JPGIMG_1750.JPGIMG_1749.JPG
    Last edited by Quiny; 02-25-2018 at 04:14 PM.

  15. #95
    Senior Member Quiny's Avatar
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    Well still working on the body install. Mounted the whole body at least 3 to 4 times and still not happy with it. New and old style nose (116 serial#). I'm now forcing the engine cover and trunk to fit with scraps of aluminum angle iron I have hanging around. I do not like forcing the engine cover and trunk to fit but my thought is that I force them in place and then glass the back of them that they will hold position. It may be that my pieces have been hanging around so long that that they bent and twisted themselves the wrong way, or they were not close from the start, who knows. I also had a thought about the airflow problem with the inter-cooler (see the last few pics). I did not expect the body to be so much trouble. let me know what you think about my inter-cooler solution. If forcing these pieces is the wrong thing to do please let me know. At this point I think it will still be a couple of years before I'm done, providing I get the time from work. I still enjoy working on the car when I can.
    IMG_1830.JPG

  16. #96
    Senior Member Quiny's Avatar
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  17. #97
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    I think the scoop would detract from all the work you're putting in to get the panel fitment right. The air to water intercooler setup is really effective and not too expensive.

  18. #98
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Ha! I'm not the only one who needed to trim A LOT the rear humps to fit around the rollbar... hard for me to understand why some, like you and me, do it that much and others no at all.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 GT3582R ~400whp/wtq+
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017

    Bulid time, including registration 3283.5h in 148 work week time and 3.5 years elapsed

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