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Thread: Quiny's 818s build

  1. #1
    Senior Member Quiny's Avatar
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    Quiny's 818s build

    Well I figured it was about time to start a build thread. This will be my first FFR car, I have done some minor restores but nothing really cool. I really wanted to build a roadster but my kids saw the 818 and we decided to make it a father and sons project. I only live about 40 minutes from FFR so I made the trip checked out the cars, spoke with Jason and dropped some cash on an 818. Looks like I will not see my kit until Oct 11 2014. I found a 2002 WRX in Wrentham, MA about 10 minutes from my house. It started and ran, was hit hard front left. The guy took $2200.00 and I towed it home. The boys and I began the dismantling, all went pretty well. Toughest part was the big bolts on the rear knuckles but they eventually lost. Here is some pics of the car and the work so far. Turns out my kids are pretty good at stripping a car, not sure if I should be concerned or not.

    100_0783.JPG100_0784.JPG100_0785.JPG100_0787.JPG100_0604.JPG100_0605.JPG100_0606.JPG100_0624.JPG100_0644.JPG100_0645.JPG

  2. #2
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    Looks like a great donor. I know you will have fun with your sons working on it. Welcome to the FFR family.

  3. #3
    Senior Member Quiny's Avatar
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    Thanks, so far we have sold off all the stuff we do not need and made back about $1000.00 I did run into an issue with the front lower control arms. Left side was horribly bent.100_0597.JPG
    I was able to find a set of aluminum ones on ebay, they are used but seem pretty good. If anyone needs a left front lower control arm let me know just pay for shipping.
    We also put together a shelf just for build parts, looks like a need another.100_0607.JPG100_0608.JPG

  4. #4

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    Quiny. Your welcome to come poke around at my shop. I am only a few minutes from you. My car is about 30% done
    Mike

  5. #5
    fasterer and furiouser longislandwrx's Avatar
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    Ouch, driver must have lost some fillings when he bent that arm!
    A well stocked beverage fridge is the key to any successful project.

  6. #6
    Senior Member Quiny's Avatar
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    Went to visit Michael at Replicarparts.com in Norton. Turns out he is only about 7 miles away. Great guy with a whole bunch of knowledge and experiance. I couldn't resist buying one of his alternator mounting setups. It's amazing all the parts and fixes that he has come up with. His shop is like candyland.

    Cleaned up the rack and pulled the seals, anyone else have an issue with the aluminum endcap? dissassenbly was no problem but when I reinstalled the endcap it snapped. It still holds the snap ring in place just not sure if it will be ok missing 1/4 of the cap. If anyone has an old rack and is willing to part with the endcap i would love to buy it from you, they dont seem to sell just that part. Also still looking for a rear ABS tone ring if anyone has one that they are not using. I did the TVG delete, pretty straight forward. I left the baffels I dont think it will make a difference with my build. I like the idea of getting rid of all the extra stuff that goes along with them. Cleaning, sanding and painting seems endless.

  7. #7
    Senior Member Quiny's Avatar
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    My kit went from being ready in September to Jan 18th. Picked up my kit but haven't had much time to work on it. My neighbor went with me, I had a hard time getting him out of the showroom, he fell in love with the 33.
    100_0818.JPG100_0819.JPG
    I had both my boys help me lift it out of the truck. It wasn't to bad once you remove all the body panels. I figured I would post some pics of the progress so far.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  8. #8
    Senior Member Quiny's Avatar
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    100_0716.JPG100_0717.JPG100_0718.JPG100_0719.JPG
    Attached Images Attached Images

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    Senior Member Quiny's Avatar
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  10. #10
    Senior Member Quiny's Avatar
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    100_0729.JPG100_0730.JPG
    Some bad news, after cleaning up the heads I found cracks from the valve seats to the plug holes
    100_0726.JPG100_0728.JPG
    After a little research it seems these cracks are not uncommon. Some people just run the heads that way. I'm leaning in that direction.

  11. #11
    Senior Member Quiny's Avatar
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    some catch up pics
    100_0680.JPG100_0681.JPG100_0682.JPG100_0683.JPG100_0684.JPG100_0685.JPG
    Think I will replace the front wheel bearings and do the axles at the same time. Why make that mess twice.

  12. #12
    Senior Member Quiny's Avatar
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    Made a trip to pick up some of the BO parts at FFR. I installed the front coilovers and also started working on mounting the rack. I started on the cockpit aluminum as well. It took a little trimming and tweaking to get things to line up but not too bad.

    In one of my pics it shows the space between the steel frame gussets and were the 2 large pieces of cockpit aluminum meet. Are most people just riviting the aluminum sheet together or are some of you guys adding a spacer and mounting to the frame as well?
    100_0731.JPG100_0735.JPG

    some more pics of progress
    100_0732.JPG100_0733.JPG100_0734.JPG

  13. #13
    Mechie3's Avatar
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    There's another sheet metal piece that goes in the foot well corner. Its not in my instructions so I didn't do it yet. Fate066 did it at the same time so he could tuck the tabs underneath. It looks much nicer that way.
    Zero Decibel Motorsports
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  14. #14
    Senior Member Quiny's Avatar
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    Haven't had much time lately to work on the car. Also waiting on the block and rods from the machine shop. Here is what I have done since last post.

    Installed the axles(needed to but one inner joint mine was aftermarket and didn't fit)100_0751.JPG

    Installed the column (I like Rori's shortening solution, I always thought once the column started to collapse that it would no longer be strong. Like a detent position that takes a lot of force to start then move easy after that.)

    Mounted ABS 100_0746.JPG100_0747.JPG100_0753.JPG100_0754.JPG100_0755.JPG100_0756.JPG100_0757.JPG100_0758.JPG100_0759.JPG

  15. #15
    Senior Member Quiny's Avatar
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    Is my swaybar upside down? It has good clearance.
    100_0760.JPG100_0761.JPG100_0762.JPG100_0763.JPG100_0764.JPG

  16. #16
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    Your swaybar is mounted correctly.
    818S - #67 (SOLD IT!)
    Delivered: 18 November 2013
    Go Karted: 29 December 2013
    Titled/Registered: 28 March 2014
    Finished: NEVER!
    341 hp @ 4844 RPM / 389 tq @ 3717 RPM

  17. #17
    Senior Member Quiny's Avatar
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    Well haven't posted to my build thread in a while. Figured I should post something since I am always asking questions. Fantastic advice on this forum it has saved me a lot of time and money I really do appreciate all the help. I haven't been able to do much on the frame but I did finish rebuilding the motor (EJ205) and reseal and install an LSD on the MT5. Like most of you life gets in the way so I only get an hour or 2 here and there. I'm hoping to have some more free time soon. Here are some pics of what I have done to date.

    101_0889.JPG101_0890.JPG101_0891.JPG101_0892.JPG

  18. #18
    Senior Member Quiny's Avatar
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    Rebuilding the engine was something I will probably never do again. I have rebuilt dozens of engines but never a Subaru. It is basically a water cooled VW motor. It required way more time effort and jig building than I have ever had to deal with before. Don't get me wrong it is a very compact/efficient design but I can rebuild a Chevy, Ford, Chrysler, Toyota, Honda, etc.. in way less time with way less effort. I would have bought a built motor or at least a short-block if I had known better. It was a good experience for me but I think it turned off my kids, I had to explain that all engines were not that difficult to rebuild. The transmission on the other hand was a joy to work on. My donor tranny was in great shape, looks like it was just replaced, and came apart and went together great. No issues with the LSD just needed to set backlash. The die pattern was perfect and I do not anticipate any issues with it. I do have pics if anyone wants them on the tranny work. The engine is another story. The heads have hairline cracks and I regret buying I cheap set of ebay rings. Time will tell but this is a budget job. I am trying to use as much as the donor as possible. So far my biggest expense has been the Boyd tank. I tried the stock one and it was just too tight.

  19. #19
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    Do you have any recomm. or tricks on setting the pinion to ring gear backlash in the tranny? I have yet to do that after installing the limited slip and am a little intimidated. What is best way to use dial gauge?

  20. #20
    Senior Member Quiny's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tmoretta View Post
    Do you have any recomm. or tricks on setting the pinion to ring gear backlash in the tranny? I have yet to do that after installing the limited slip and am a little intimidated. What is best way to use dial gauge?

    I left out the seals and o-rings, followed the procedures then made reference points on the case so I could remove the side bearing retainers (count the turns) and then install the seals and o-rings. you get a much better feel without them in place. In a nutshell you bring in the ringgear side till it stops then bring in the other side and achieve 0 backlash. You then adjust the ring-gear side only for backlash and the otherside for bearing preload. The manual gives a really good starting point based on the notches. Final check is through the drainplug with a dial indicator. I used die to check tooth engagment but since it is the same ring and pinion the only thing that will change is backlash. I wouldn't bother if I did it again.

    PM me your e-mail and I will send you a copy of the factory manual

  21. #21
    Senior Member gwarden's Avatar
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    I would like to see pics of tranny just got my engine mostly put back together but tranny and lsd are next

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    Pics are in my build thread.

  23. #23
    Senior Member Quiny's Avatar
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    Senior Member Quiny's Avatar
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    Well I had some time today (rainy day) and both my boys were home to help so we dropped the engine and transmission in. Pretty uneventful and didn't take very long. It lined up and dropped right in with one kid on each side guiding and me on the hoist. It seems square but I'm concerned about the angle. The whole assembly leans forward a couple of degrees. I can't imagine that is good for the oiling of the trany or engine. Anyone else see this? I'm thinking about adding some washers under the engine mounts to level it. I read somewhere about someone destroying a transmission because it didn't read right on the dipstick. I can definitely see that happening. Please give me your thoughts.
    101_0895.JPG101_0896.JPG101_0897.JPG

  25. #25
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    Just put the correct amount of fluid in and you'll be fine. Now that mine is full, it reads pretty high on the dipstick.
    818S - #67 (SOLD IT!)
    Delivered: 18 November 2013
    Go Karted: 29 December 2013
    Titled/Registered: 28 March 2014
    Finished: NEVER!
    341 hp @ 4844 RPM / 389 tq @ 3717 RPM

  26. #26
    Senior Member Quiny's Avatar
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    I will definitely do that, I also cut up some 1/4" plate steel and made spacers for underneath the engine mounts and it corrected 90% of the problem. I would guess that bigger wheels in the back would make this more of an issue. I think you are correct that as long is there is the proper amount of fluid in the trany that it will be OK. I just cant help myself, if it's not straight, level and square I need to fix or question it.

  27. #27
    Senior Member Quiny's Avatar
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    Made a little more progress, brakes are in and bled, clutch in and bled, cooling system in but not filled yet. I used Mike E.'s front pipes(replicaparts.com) and the FFR supplied pipes for the rear. I figured going with the original mounts there would be a lot of movement in the engine mounts so "flex" would be good. I did assemble the accelerator cable and checked for full throttle. It has enough travel but the pedal feels "rough" I'm going to look into that. I started working on the shifter and I really want to buy Waynes shifter but I'm still recovering from the Boyd tank purchase. Did I say I'm cheap. So far I'm still under 13k for the build but just barley. I also purchased the new center console piece from FFR. I couldn't see using the fiberglass one it just didn't fit well. Here are some current pictures
    101_0901.JPG101_0902.JPG101_0903.JPG101_0904.JPG

  28. #28
    Senior Member Quiny's Avatar
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    excuse the dates on the pictures, fresh batteries and a lazy photographer.

  29. #29
    Senior Member wleehendrick's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Quiny View Post
    I really want to buy Waynes shifter but I'm still recovering from the Boyd tank purchase.
    Looking good... The Boyd tank and VCP shifter blew my budget, but no regrets! I'll have to think about the new console when I get there; it's not on the parts catalog; you mind sharing how much you paid?

  30. #30
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    How come you didn't get the solid radiator piping for the rear as well? I'm in the same boat, trying to recover after the Boyd tank and saving for Mike Everson's radiator piping, clutch slave cylinder kit and brake reservoir kit.

  31. #31
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    Nice use of cleco's on the center console piece. How much was it to buy after the fact?

  32. #32
    Senior Member Quiny's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aero STI View Post
    Nice use of cleco's on the center console piece. How much was it to buy after the fact?
    The new center console is 3 pieces. They charged me $50 per piece. So $150 before tax. Well worth it IMOP after trying to make the other piece work. Don't get me wrong I could have made the original piece work but I would have spent days doing it. I think I will use the origin one to reinforce some of the other things that I haven't installed yet. The new setup is not perfect it requires some patience and time to assemble you will also have to trim it if you are more than 6' tall.

  33. #33
    Senior Member Quiny's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by STiPWRD View Post
    How come you didn't get the solid radiator piping for the rear as well? I'm in the same boat, trying to recover after the Boyd tank and saving for Mike Everson's radiator piping, clutch slave cylinder kit and brake reservoir kit.
    I will definitely go with the reservoir kit, there is no way to make the wipers upgrade work without it unless you get really creative. By the way the hard piping was very good, If I wasn't so cheap I would have gone for the engine side as well. I may do it anyway.

  34. #34
    Senior Member Quiny's Avatar
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    I was able to complete most of the mechanicals, shifter went in OK. It really needs to be shaved quite a bit to fit in the console. On to the electrical install. I was able to shorten almost everything so far it looks like the only thing that I will have to extend is the alternator wiring. I did see that the clockspring will not work with my steering wheel adapter, anyone found one that works? I'm not so much worried about the horn it's the canceling of the turn signal that I don't want to lose. I can wire the horn to the rear washer button on the wiper switch. If all else fails I think I can make my own canceling lever with a short piece of 1-3/4" exhaust pipe and a 1-3/4" split collar. I will post pictures tomorrow. I did also mock up the seat belts (wagon donor) they work pretty well. I didn't do anything fancy just some angle iron bolted to the floor frame to mount the belt ends.

  35. #35
    Senior Member RM1SepEx's Avatar
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    Check out AZpete and my threads for the steering adapter to get cancelling and horn working...
    Dan

    818S #17 Picked up 8/1/13 First start 11/1/13 Go Kart 3/28/14

  36. #36

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    Quiny, here's what I did to make the horn and cancelling blinkers work. I hope this helps.

    Mike Eversons reservoir kit? I've got it and after getting the Factory Five instructions for their new wiper kit, I'm thinking I should revert to the regular hidden reservoirs to install wipers. It looks to me like the remote reservoir will obstruct the wipers but do you know otherwise, per Post #33? I previously trashed my clutch reservoir so I have now ordered another one which means $120 because it only comes with the clutch master. Can I really use a remote reservoir with wipers?
    818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities.
    Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).

  37. #37
    Senior Member Quiny's Avatar
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    Mike Eversons reservoir kit? I've got it and after getting the Factory Five instructions for their new wiper kit, I'm thinking I should revert to the regular hidden reservoirs to install wipers. It looks to me like the remote reservoir will obstruct the wipers but do you know otherwise, per Post #33? I previously trashed my clutch reservoir so I have now ordered another one which means $120 because it only comes with the clutch master. Can I really use a remote reservoir with wipers?[/QUOTE]

    I think there is enough room for the remote reservoir, just not in the typical position. It would need to be mounted far left or far right.

  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by AZPete View Post
    Quiny, here's what I did to make the horn and cancelling blinkers work. I hope this helps.

    Mike Eversons reservoir kit? I've got it and after getting the Factory Five instructions for their new wiper kit, I'm thinking I should revert to the regular hidden reservoirs to install wipers. It looks to me like the remote reservoir will obstruct the wipers but do you know otherwise, per Post #33? I previously trashed my clutch reservoir so I have now ordered another one which means $120 because it only comes with the clutch master. Can I really use a remote reservoir with wipers?
    If not, I believe that I still have my reservoir from my clutch master. You can have it if you need it, Pete!
    818S - #67 (SOLD IT!)
    Delivered: 18 November 2013
    Go Karted: 29 December 2013
    Titled/Registered: 28 March 2014
    Finished: NEVER!
    341 hp @ 4844 RPM / 389 tq @ 3717 RPM

  39. #39

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    Jerome, PM sent.

    Quiny here's the link I forgot to add previously about the horn and blinkers.

    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...heel-installed
    Last edited by AZPete; 09-09-2014 at 03:45 PM. Reason: added link
    818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities.
    Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).

  40. #40
    Senior Member mjazzka's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Quiny View Post
    Well haven't posted to my build thread in a while. Figured I should post something since I am always asking questions. Fantastic advice on this forum it has saved me a lot of time and money I really do appreciate all the help. I haven't been able to do much on the frame but I did finish rebuilding the motor (EJ205) and reseal and install an LSD on the MT5. Like most of you life gets in the way so I only get an hour or 2 here and there. I'm hoping to have some more free time soon. Here are some pics of what I have done to date.

    101_0889.JPG101_0890.JPG101_0891.JPG101_0892.JPG
    What is the orange paint you used for your air intake manifold, alternator, etc?

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