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Thread: MRG MotorSports 818S Build

  1. #401
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by STiPWRD View Post
    Bob, that looks great, I may have to borrow. Can you take 1 or 2 more pics from the driver side?
    Quote Originally Posted by RM1SepEx View Post
    Looks great Bob... Shifter is pretty low since you dropped it into the tunnel 2 inches. What did you use for a clevis on the fore and aft motion? I've been looking a how to best mate up the 1/4 -28 threaded cable with the huge stock MR2 attachment hole. I have my MR2 shifter rebuilt and mounted on a single 1/4 inch thick AL plate on top of the tunnel. I'll be making my tunnel about 3 inches taller than stock. Should be ready for a video in a couple days, the rear bell crank came out sweet and those cables are sooooooo much better! No slop at all.

    The cables are so good that I think that my upgraded billet FFR shifter (for sale BTW) with just longer Teleflex vs the junk cables would have solved many of the inherant shifting issues!
    Thanks guys.
    I used the same clevis for each. McMaster http://www.mcmaster.com/#6414k13/=w2w4je
    I drilled them out to 1.00 mm. And taped them to 1/4-28.
    On the fore-aft one, I cut on of the legs off the clevis.
    Bob

    A couple more pictures


    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Bob_n_Cincy; 02-26-2015 at 02:22 PM.
    818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
    My Son Michael's Turbo ICE Build X22 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rts-818S-Build
    My Electric Supercar Build X21 (on hold until winter) http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-Build-Thread

  2. #402
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    That's perfect, much appreciated! Was there anything else needed to make this setup work? Are those 1" aluminum spacers and can I find those cable tie downs on McMaster also? Just trying to order everything at once to avoid multiple shipping costs.

  3. #403
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by STiPWRD View Post
    That's perfect, much appreciated! Was there anything else needed to make this setup work? Are those 1" aluminum spacers and can I find those cable tie downs on McMaster also? Just trying to order everything at once to avoid multiple shipping costs.
    Yes, 1/4" x 1" long unthreaded spacers and straps from MMC.
    I thought the MMC straps were weak. But I'm sticking with them.

    I did use the blue plate off of post#388. You could use the MR2 plate cut down.
    I used 7ft cables with my side shift trans. You will need longer if you go with FFR shift brackets.
    Bob
    Last edited by Bob_n_Cincy; 02-26-2015 at 03:09 PM.
    818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
    My Son Michael's Turbo ICE Build X22 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rts-818S-Build
    My Electric Supercar Build X21 (on hold until winter) http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-Build-Thread

  4. #404
    Senior Member RM1SepEx's Avatar
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    Bob, even with the stock rear shift location my new cables are 7 feet. I cut off the side to side stud and redrilled it for a 1/4 inch bolt. I used a 1/4 -28 threaded female rod end. I drilled the front to back hole 3/8 and inserted a 3/8 OD, 1/4 ID bronze bushing so that I could use a female rod end on that one too. My plate is on top of the tunnel so I need to shim up the clamps from McMaster for the cables. I'll have photos tomorrow, just started mounting it this afternoon. While I can easily heat the garage a bit to make it livable, my feet get cold and I have to come in to warm them!

    I modified the rear brackets and added a bell crank for the twist motion. I mounted that cable to a piece of 2 x 2 aluminum and bolted it with the same holes as the chopped up stock bracket. Photos tomorrow on my thread... ???

    Cables I used http://www.boatersland.com/telccx43307.html
    Last edited by RM1SepEx; 02-27-2015 at 10:56 AM.
    Dan

    818S #17 Picked up 8/1/13 First start 11/1/13 Go Kart 3/28/14

  5. #405
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RM1SepEx View Post
    Bob, even with the stock rear shift location my new cables are 7 feet. I cut off the side to side stud and redrilled it for a 1/4 inch bolt. I used a 1/4 -28 threaded female rod end. I drilled the front to back hole 3/8 and inserted a 3/8 OD, 1/4 ID bronze bushing so that I could use a female rod end on that one too. My plate is on top of the tunnel so I need to shim up the clamps from McMaster for the cables. I'll have photos tomorrow, just started mounting it this afternoon. While I can easily heat the garage a bit to make it livable, my feet get cold and I have to come in to warm them!

    I modified the rear brackets and added a bell crank for the twist motion. I mounted that cable to a piece of 2 x 2 aluminum and bolted it with the same holes as the chopped up stock bracket. Photos tomorrow on my thread... ???
    Hey Dan,
    Throw some cardboard on the floor. Keep those toes warm.
    818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
    My Son Michael's Turbo ICE Build X22 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rts-818S-Build
    My Electric Supercar Build X21 (on hold until winter) http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-Build-Thread

  6. #406
    Senior Member RM1SepEx's Avatar
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    Bob, almost done... here are some teaser shots. A friend turned the link for the rear twist linkage, I'll assemble tomorrow after my solar EV meeting... attempting to justify PV panels using a 30% tax credit!

    Bob, my ball and socket joint allows too much movement of the ball, I've obviously assembled something wrong!

    P1120397.JPG P1120398.JPG P1120400.JPG P1120401.JPG

    Edit: Figured it out, too much clearance around the hole, doesn't hold the socket down well, will "fix" tomorrow with a thin piece of aluminum to hold it down
    Last edited by RM1SepEx; 02-26-2015 at 08:35 PM.
    Dan

    818S #17 Picked up 8/1/13 First start 11/1/13 Go Kart 3/28/14

  7. #407
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RM1SepEx View Post
    Bob, almost done... here are some teaser shots. A friend turned the link for the rear twist linkage, I'll assemble tomorrow after my solar EV meeting... attempting to justify PV panels using a 30% tax credit!

    Bob, my ball and socket joint allows too much movement of the ball, I've obviously assembled something wrong!

    P1120397.JPG P1120398.JPG P1120400.JPG P1120401.JPG

    Edit: Figured it out, too much clearance around the hole, doesn't hold the socket down well, will "fix" tomorrow with a thin piece of aluminum to hold it down
    Looks good Dan
    Bob
    818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
    My Son Michael's Turbo ICE Build X22 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rts-818S-Build
    My Electric Supercar Build X21 (on hold until winter) http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-Build-Thread

  8. #408
    Senior Member RM1SepEx's Avatar
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    I added a .050 sheet of aluminum with the proper sized hole on top of the shifter "cup", now it feels AWESOME
    Dan

    818S #17 Picked up 8/1/13 First start 11/1/13 Go Kart 3/28/14

  9. #409
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    Guys, thanks for the great MR2 shifter idea's

  10. #410
    Senior Member RM1SepEx's Avatar
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    You could do the same thing by reversing the std shifter and either use a second bellcrank to revrse the fore and aft movement or do what Andrew and Tamra did and relocate the fore aft cable to above the pivot point. I have one of FFR's billet shifters for sale that would work awesome in that orientation if you want to show off some nice aluminum machining http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...Billet-Shifter $50 less than from FFR with free shipping. I actually think that if you used long Teleflex cables instead of the cheap ones provided with the kit the loops wouldn't be an issue
    Dan

    818S #17 Picked up 8/1/13 First start 11/1/13 Go Kart 3/28/14

  11. #411
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Just thought I'd post this for all my auto crosser friends

    818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
    My Son Michael's Turbo ICE Build X22 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rts-818S-Build
    My Electric Supercar Build X21 (on hold until winter) http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-Build-Thread

  12. #412
    Senior Member Tamra's Avatar
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    Such a great video! Our first autox is next weekend, weather dependent. We won't be bringing the 818 out yet, but we'll likely make an appearance in our Miata and see if we remember how to drive.
    Tamra
    Building 818SR #297 picked up 10/25/14 with Andrew (xxguitarist)
    First start 12/21/14, First "drive" 1/17/15
    First Dyno at EFI Logics 3/7/15- 310whp at 15psi for break in, full spool by ~3500rpm!
    First autocross 3/29/15
    1st Registered 818 in Connecticut 7/24/2015. 9 months - 1 day from kit pickup!

  13. #413
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Building Doghouse on my pool table

    I decided to bring the dog house home to assemble it.
    From what I'm learning, I am thinking that it would have been much more difficult on the car.
    I have not trimmed anything yet. Putting the fender, hood and bumpers together. Everything had to be pulled in place. I am hoping that leaving it all set together for a few days, the parts will start to play together.

    P1050241s.jpg

    P1050243s.jpg

    P10502421.jpg

    I tried to put the headlight buckets in with no success. The headlights were sitting way to high for the nose of the fender to meet the bumper.
    Right know I have the headlights in with no buckets. I only have some minor trimming to do to get a good fit of the lens of the headlight to the bumper. I probably won't trim the fenders headlight interface.

    I will have to get creative with the buckets to hold the headlights in. Here is what it looks like from the inside right now.
    Bob

    P1050244.jpg

    .
    Last edited by Bob_n_Cincy; 03-07-2015 at 09:30 PM.
    818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
    My Son Michael's Turbo ICE Build X22 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rts-818S-Build
    My Electric Supercar Build X21 (on hold until winter) http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-Build-Thread

  14. #414
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Bob, the FFR black headlights supports (plastic) aren't fitted on your last pic, those are the ones that make the headlights sit way too high?
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  15. #415
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frank818 View Post
    Bob, the FFR black headlights supports (plastic) aren't fitted on your last pic, those are the ones that make the headlights sit way too high?
    I tried both the Fiberglass buckets and the Plastic buckets. I could not get close with either type.
    So temporarily, I put the headlights in with NO buckets. (as shown in the pictures above)
    Now that I know where they headlights have to be, I will try and make the buckets work.
    Bob
    Last edited by Bob_n_Cincy; 03-08-2015 at 08:47 PM.
    818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
    My Son Michael's Turbo ICE Build X22 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rts-818S-Build
    My Electric Supercar Build X21 (on hold until winter) http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-Build-Thread

  16. #416
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    In Michael's impreza there are 3 plastic buttons for the horn.
    They are on the back of the steering wheel air bag.
    Does somebody have some extra ones or know the part number so I can buy them.

    $_57.jpg

    Thanks
    Bob
    818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
    My Son Michael's Turbo ICE Build X22 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rts-818S-Build
    My Electric Supercar Build X21 (on hold until winter) http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-Build-Thread

  17. #417
    Senior Member RM1SepEx's Avatar
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    I'll look this AM Bob...
    Dan

    818S #17 Picked up 8/1/13 First start 11/1/13 Go Kart 3/28/14

  18. #418
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    I'm a happy camper

    I'm a very happy camper.
    Just completed my first headlight.
    No cutting or trimming fiberglass.
    No Gaps, looks great. IMO.
    Spent about 6-8 hours on this one. A lot of trial and error.
    The next light should take about an hour now that I know what to do.
    I will take pictures and do a write up on the next one.
    Don't even think about doing this on the car, that would be ridicules.
    Bob

    PS: here is a like to my real job.
    http://www.gizmag.com/lightning-ls21...36470/pictures




    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Bob_n_Cincy; 03-11-2015 at 02:52 AM.
    818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
    My Son Michael's Turbo ICE Build X22 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rts-818S-Build
    My Electric Supercar Build X21 (on hold until winter) http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-Build-Thread

  19. #419

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    Id like to see it installed on the chassis. Gaps definitely change once you try to bolt everything together.

  20. #420
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Can't wait to see your procedure Bob, I'll try to mimic it (will certainly fail cuz I am not as good as you but at least I'll try ). Interesting point Kurk brought up, hopefully it fits well once bolted on.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  21. #421

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    Another tip: I cut off approx 1/2" from the side of the mounting points on the frame where the bumper mounts behind the headlight and rounded the corner to match the fiberglass more or less. That mount created a lot of fitment frustration before realizing that it was the culprit.

  22. #422
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kurk818 View Post
    Another tip: I cut off approx 1/2" from the side of the mounting points on the frame where the bumper mounts behind the headlight
    On the frame behind the headlights? Close to the rad frame support? Not too sure where you made that cut.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  23. #423

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    Quote Originally Posted by Frank818 View Post
    On the frame behind the headlights? Close to the rad frame support? Not too sure where you made that cut.
    Yes, on the frame behind the headlights. I cut off approx 1/2" from the wheel side in. It basically narrowed up the width of the mounting points. The same mount where the headlight tab is mounted.

    Hope this helps. Ill try to post a photo

  24. #424
    Senior Member FFRSpec72's Avatar
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    Why are the headlights such a pain ? Seems like you just slap that puppy in ?
    Tony Nadalin
    2018 SOVREN Big Bore Champion
    2015 SCCA Oregon Region VP3 Champion
    2012 ICSCC ITE Class Champion
    FFR MkII Challenge Car, Spec Racer, Street Legal, SCCA, ICSCC and NASA Racing
    818R Build in progress

  25. #425

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    Quote Originally Posted by FFRSpec72 View Post
    Why are the headlights such a pain ? Seems like you just slap that puppy in ?
    Ha! Quote of the century

    To make them look like they belong in that area and to have the beam pointed in somewhat of a correct direction, id say yes, they are a pain.

  26. #426
    Senior Member FFRSpec72's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kurk818 View Post
    Ha! Quote of the century

    To make them look like they belong in that area and to have the beam pointed in somewhat of a correct direction, id say yes, they are a pain.
    Hmmm, maybe I will have to wait until you are back in the Redmond/Bellevue area and you can come do mine !!!!
    Tony Nadalin
    2018 SOVREN Big Bore Champion
    2015 SCCA Oregon Region VP3 Champion
    2012 ICSCC ITE Class Champion
    FFR MkII Challenge Car, Spec Racer, Street Legal, SCCA, ICSCC and NASA Racing
    818R Build in progress

  27. #427

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    Quote Originally Posted by FFRSpec72 View Post
    Hmmm, maybe I will have to wait until you are back in the Redmond/Bellevue area and you can come do mine !!!!
    Im in Bellevue daily. I could definitely give you some pointers.

  28. #428
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Wait till I post the video before comments. That will make it much clearer.

    Kurk818, I am going to try and install my dog house as one complete (propery gapped) assembly.
    Then wedge,shim,cut,cuss,fill,cuss,grind,cuss as necessary, or I might just "slap that puppy"
    Do you think that will work?
    Bob
    818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
    My Son Michael's Turbo ICE Build X22 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rts-818S-Build
    My Electric Supercar Build X21 (on hold until winter) http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-Build-Thread

  29. #429

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob_n_Cincy View Post
    Wait till I post the video before comments. That will make it much clearer.

    Kurk818, I am going to try and install my dog house as one complete (propery gapped) assembly.
    Then wedge,shim,cut,cuss,fill,cuss,grind,cuss as necessary, or I might just "slap that puppy"
    Do you think that will work?
    Bob
    I really hope yours goes in easier than mine. Eager to find out

  30. #430
    Senior Member RM1SepEx's Avatar
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    Bob, you have to clip the front mounting pads almost everyone finds that the front bracing sits too far to the left, Do some simple diagonal measurements and you will see, once you cut them back 3/8 or so you can get the nose on square, as is the nose just fits on those pads, you can't shift it around to get it even and square

    I have fiberglass buckets, you need to cut them back where the diagonal brace comes up from the bottom. My headlights fit fine with the buckets up tight to the nose

    I'm working out an alternative brace for the front under the bucket. The steel "Z" braces are a joke, far too long. I want to bond in a 1/4 20 stud so I don't have an exposed screw under the headlight and use a spacer so I can adjust the height of the headlight from underneath... http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-threaded-rods/=w9mdsx
    Last edited by RM1SepEx; 03-11-2015 at 04:05 PM.
    Dan

    818S #17 Picked up 8/1/13 First start 11/1/13 Go Kart 3/28/14

  31. #431
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RM1SepEx View Post
    Bob, you have to clip the front mounting pads almost everyone finds that the front bracing sits too far to the left, Do some simple diagonal measurements and you will see, once you cut them back 3/8 or so you can get the nose on square, as is the nose just fits on those pads, you can't shift it around to get it even and square

    I have fiberglass buckets, you need to cut them back where the diagonal brace comes up from the bottom. My headlights fit fine with the buckets up tight to the nose

    I'm working out an alternative brace for the front under the bucket. The steel "Z" braces are a joke, far too long. I want to bond in a 1/4 20 stud so I don't have an exposed screw under the headlight and use a spacer so I can adjust the height of the headlight from underneath... http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-threaded-rods/=w9mdsx
    Hey Dan
    I don't know if my frame will be to far to the left. Remember my steering rack is 20mm to far to the right.
    Correction: my rack is 20mm to far left.

    But I will measure once and cut 6 times.

    I have both kinds of buckets. Tony suggested the plastic ones, so that is what I used.
    I made a z brace with an adjustable bonded stud.
    Bob

    P1050249s.jpg
    Last edited by Bob_n_Cincy; 03-11-2015 at 04:22 PM.
    818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
    My Son Michael's Turbo ICE Build X22 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rts-818S-Build
    My Electric Supercar Build X21 (on hold until winter) http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-Build-Thread

  32. #432
    Senior Member RM1SepEx's Avatar
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    that's the ticket, same as my idea...

    the rack isn't the issue it's those rectangular pads that the nose sits on. Measure diagonally from the windshield tubing or some other easy to get to spot. When they weld up the radiator frame it distorts to the left due to how it is fixtured (as per Chris, our resident welding poohbah) If you look at the online GRM video they clip the left pads to even it out. Right now the spacing is such that it forces the nose to be crooked. I clipped 3/8 off the front, 3/8 off the outside of the left pad. I also put a nice 3/8 radius on the outside points of those brackets. This allows you to move the nose side to side and front to back. See how I can slide my nose onto the pads to totally cover the pads...

    P1120411.JPG P1120412.JPG P1120413.JPG P1120414.JPG

    P1120415.JPG P1120416.JPG P1120417.JPG

    You can see how much I had to cut the buckets to allow the nose to slide back. I still need a piece of aluminum angle at the bottom for the front lower attachment.

    you can also see how my nose has to be pushed to the right to square up, the fiberglass is at the edge of the radiator on the right and over it about 1/4 on the left...

    Oh yeah, I loosened all the bolts and used a ratchet strap to pull it to the right and still had to grind the pad. You can move it quite a bit just by pulling it against the mounting brackets due to hole clearance etc...
    Last edited by RM1SepEx; 03-11-2015 at 07:33 PM. Reason: spelling
    Dan

    818S #17 Picked up 8/1/13 First start 11/1/13 Go Kart 3/28/14

  33. #433

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    Quote Originally Posted by RM1SepEx View Post
    that's the ticket, same as my idea...

    the rack isn't the issue it's those rectangular pads that the nose sits on. Measure diagonally from the windshield tubing or some other easy to get to spot. When they weld up the radiator frame it distorts to the left due to how it is fixtured (as per Chris, our resident welding poohbah) If you look at the online GRM video they clip the left pads to even it out. Right now the spacing is such that it forces the nose to be crooked. I clipped 3/8 off the front, 3/8 off the outside of the left pad. I also put a nice 3/8 radius on the outside points of those brackets. This allows you to move the nose side to side and front to back. See how I can slide my nose onto the pads to totally cover the pads...

    P1120411.JPG P1120412.JPG P1120413.JPG P1120414.JPG

    P1120415.JPG P1120416.JPG P1120417.JPG

    You can see how much I had to cut the buckets to allow the nose to slide back. I still need a piece of aluminum angle at the bottom for the front lower attachment.

    you can also see how my nose has to be pushed to the right to square up, the fiberglass is at the edge of the radiator on the right and over it about 1/4 on the left...

    Oh yeah, I loosened all the bolts and used a ratchet strap to pull it to the right and still had to grind the pad. You can move it quite a bit just by pulling it against the mounting brackets due to hole clearance etc...
    Doesnt the pulling to the side mess with the alignment of the hood with relation to the bumper lines?

  34. #434
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kurk818 View Post
    Doesnt the pulling to the side mess with the alignment of the hood with relation to the bumper lines?
    Moving the nose to the left or right is going to mess with all the gaps..
    Last night I measured my radiator frame about 8 different ways. It is square within an 1/8".
    I will check alignment with the car when I put it on.
    Bob
    818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
    My Son Michael's Turbo ICE Build X22 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rts-818S-Build
    My Electric Supercar Build X21 (on hold until winter) http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-Build-Thread

  35. #435
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    I published my headlight install video in the body & Interior - 818 Forum

    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...l=1#post191708
    818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
    My Son Michael's Turbo ICE Build X22 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rts-818S-Build
    My Electric Supercar Build X21 (on hold until winter) http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-Build-Thread

  36. #436
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    Bob,

    Nicely done. It will be a help when I do mine soon.

    Larry

  37. #437
    Senior Member RM1SepEx's Avatar
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    Nope, my radiator bracket is off to the left, Chris' was too, if you trim the pads it allows you to move the front end around to get it straight. There is some slop in the tabs, holes etc... mine didn't allow you to center the radiator frame. I seem to remember some not even able to get the holes to align, the tabs to slide between each other. Without cutting the pads my nose, like others, could not be put in place centered, just like in the GRM build video

    Bob an 1/8 isn't bad, mine was 3/8 and between the sharp corner forcing the nose into one place and it being the exact width of the fiberglass the nose could only be placed 3/8 off to the left. If you trim the pads the nose can be moved around to center it and to move it back. The manual expects it to bolt to the front lower bar, even trimming the pads my nose can't go back that far...
    Dan

    818S #17 Picked up 8/1/13 First start 11/1/13 Go Kart 3/28/14

  38. #438
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Cockpit aluminum and rear body test fit today.

    Today we installed our rear firewall and cockpit aluminum.
    Michael wants the racecar look. So all the aluminum is outside the frame. It will be a simple interior with no carpet or vinyl.



    We also test fit the rear of the body. The humps hit the roll bar by about 1/4" so I will move the body back about that far.



    Probably going to go with the double trapezoid in the rear to vent my rear radiator.
    Bob
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    818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
    My Son Michael's Turbo ICE Build X22 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rts-818S-Build
    My Electric Supercar Build X21 (on hold until winter) http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-Build-Thread

  39. #439
    Senior Member Tamra's Avatar
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    Is the rear fitment as good as it looks in the photo? Any trimming yet?
    Tamra
    Building 818SR #297 picked up 10/25/14 with Andrew (xxguitarist)
    First start 12/21/14, First "drive" 1/17/15
    First Dyno at EFI Logics 3/7/15- 310whp at 15psi for break in, full spool by ~3500rpm!
    First autocross 3/29/15
    1st Registered 818 in Connecticut 7/24/2015. 9 months - 1 day from kit pickup!

  40. #440
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tamra View Post
    Is the rear fitment as good as it looks in the photo? Any trimming yet?
    No trimming yet.
    The engine cover (humps) is to tight in the front and has a 1/2" gap in the back. We may need on of mechie3 anti spreader bars.
    The trunk cover will easily be pulled down by the pins to fit. Both covers with need edge trimming to fit flush.
    Here is a couple more pictures.

    rear view.jpg

    inside view.jpg
    818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
    My Son Michael's Turbo ICE Build X22 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rts-818S-Build
    My Electric Supercar Build X21 (on hold until winter) http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-Build-Thread

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