MRG MotorSports 818S Build

[Mechie3]

I see now what you mean about aluminum on the outside. I kinda like that and would make mounting seatbelts easier too.

[DMC7492]

Hi Bob the video of the morphed lotus that was on post 321 is not working, I wanted to review the part where he mentioned the cooling vents on the hood where recontoured to allow a low pressure area for the vent to pull air out of the hood, I wanted to post this in the thread about the air to air cooling. Someone mentioned the hood vents. Not being efficient. Any idea what happened to the Utube video?

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Hi Bob the video of the morphed lotus that was on post 321 is not working, I wanted to review the part where he mentioned the cooling vents on the hood where recontoured to allow a low pressure area for the vent to pull air out of the hood, I wanted to post this in the thread about the air to air cooling. Someone mentioned the hood vents. Not being efficient. Any idea what happened to the Utube video?

Don, I replaced the video with another of the same car.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...l=1#post181879

[metalmaker12]

I see now what you mean about aluminum on the outside. I kinda like that and would make mounting seatbelts easier too.

I thought of doing this, I like it a lot

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Michael and I were working on aligning the body tonight. We moved the body 7/8" off the front firewall instead of the recommended 5/8". We did this to avoid trimming engine cover / roll bar interference.
Will the extra 1/4" come back to haunt us somewhere else?
Bob

[K3LAG]

Michael and I were working on aligning the body tonight. We moved the body 7/8" off the from firewall instead of the recommended 5/8". We did this to avoid trimming engine cover / roll bar interference.
Will the extra 1/4" come back to haunt us somewhere else?
Bob

It might create less clearance where the front fender, hood and windshield frame meet. Even with mine at 5/8ths it's pretty tight.

Larry

[Bob_n_Cincy]

It might create less clearance where the front fender, hood and windshield frame meet. Even with mine at 5/8ths it's pretty tight.
Larry

Thanks Larry
I guess the bumper also might not fit on the steel nose.
Bob

[K3LAG]

Thanks Larry
I guess the bumper also might not fit on the steel nose.
Bob

The bumper shouldn't be a problem. Most seem to find that there is a gap between the front of the radiator support and the bumper which has required making a bracket anyway. It might cause some extra trimming where the mounting tabs are up by the headlights though.

Larry

[RM1SepEx]

Bob, I'd be more concerned with the door latch brackets, they only adjust so far back so make sure that you can swing them up to sit flush against the fiberglass. I also had to add an aluminum bracket under the radiator support. I cleaned up the nose pads to allow space to move the nose into a square position.

[DMC7492]

Hi Bob I'm looking at your shifter cables. How did you route around or through the engine. I am planning on A/C so the compressor is kind of in the way to go under the intake. If I go below engine the Exhaust cross pipe is smack dab in the middle. Any suggestions?

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Hi Bob I'm looking at your shifter cables. How did you route around or through the engine. I am planning on A/C so the compressor is kind of in the way to go under the intake. If I go below engine the Exhaust cross pipe is smack dab in the middle. Any suggestions?

Hi Don,
I went around the driver side of the engine. No gas tank in the way helps.
cables.jpg

cab2.jpg


Bob

[Mechie3]

Bob, I'd be more concerned with the door latch brackets, they only adjust so far back so make sure that you can swing them up to sit flush against the fiberglass. I also had to add an aluminum bracket under the radiator support. I cleaned up the nose pads to allow space to move the nose into a square position.

My body is too far back adn this is about my biggest problem. I need to clearance those brackets or the frame for a nicer fit.

[RM1SepEx]

My body is too far back adn this is about my biggest problem. I need to clearance those brackets or the frame for a nicer fit.

Decisions, decisions... so many areas create issues in other areas, I wanted to go farther back for roll bar clearance but it screws up the latch brackets and my hood clearance for wipers. And there is no way I'll cut my hood for the FFR wiper solution, looks like an afterthought IMNSHO

[DMC7492]

Hi Don,
I went around the driver side of the engine. No gas tank in the way helps.
cables.jpg

cab2.jpg


Bob

Thanks Bob, I was wondering if the cables were that flexible, now I know!!

[Frank818]

And there is no way I'll cut my hood for the FFR wiper solution

I second that. I have 3 ideas in mind right now, but I am far from test fitting wipers.

Bob you fitted the FFR's?

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I second that. I have 3 ideas in mind right now, but I am far from test fitting wipers.

Bob you fitted the FFR's?

No wipers for me. Just some rain-x.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

My fiberglass panels are from 2013.
I need to pull the panels in with 20-40 pounds of force to get them to line up with my engine covers. (Mechie3 bar)

My Question. Well the panels conform to this shape with time?
Thanks
Bob

[freds]

[QUOTE=RM1SepEx;193175]Decisions, decisions... so many areas create issues in other areas, I wanted to go farther back for roll bar clearance but it screws up the latch brackets and my hood clearance for wipers. And there is no way I'll cut my hood for the FFR wiper solution, looks like an afterthought IMNSHO [/QUOTE

I think they look OK
Wipers.jpg

[RM1SepEx]

Bob, I installed the Craig's bar yesterday, it does pull them in. Your gap looks tight at the rear corner, it can't be that tight on the other side... my sides are new but the rear clip is older...

Bob can you measure up from the side panels to the windshield frame and from the top square tube across in back of the seats? I found that to get the measurements even close, side to side my driver's side windshield frame is down and forward and my passenger side is up and back

my targets are 20 inches from sidepod to the cut off windshield post and 47.5 inches from the frame tube to the rear lower point of that same cut... I've been measuring all damn day

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Bob, I installed the Craig's bar yesterday, it does pull them in. Your gap looks tight at the rear corner, it can't be that tight on the other side... my sides are new but the rear clip is older...

Bob can you measure up from the side panels to the windshield frame and from the top square tube across in back of the seats? I found that to get the measurements even close, side to side my driver's side windshield frame is down and forward and my passenger side is up and back

my targets are 20 inches from sidepod to the cut off windshield post and 47.5 inches from the frame tube to the rear lower point of that same cut... I've been measuring all damn day

Hi Dan,
My rear engine cover is tight on both sides.
I have 3 set of panels. 2 (2013) and 1 (2014 crashed) . I should mix and match to see if anything fits.

I have not even thought about my windshield yet. I'll have install it before I get any of your measurements.
Bob

[AZPete]

Bob, try this since your rear engine cover is tight at both sides. I had the same problem and there was also a large gap between the engine cover and the bumper at the center. I made a bracket and used a coat hanger and turnbuckle to pull the center of the bumper inward. This also pushed the outer edges outward and eased the sides. Now, after about 2 months, I removed the coat hanger brace and the bumper remembers the shape.
rear bumper brace.jpg

[RM1SepEx]

Nice Pete, I need to do that with mine as well as the rear clip doesn't match the engine cover well on mine too... The only problem is that it does match my nice $$$ CF street spoiler... ???? another UGH! Time for a beer I guess

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Bob, try this since your rear engine cover is tight at both sides. I had the same problem and there was also a large gap between the engine cover and the bumper at the center. I made a bracket and used a coat hanger and turnbuckle to pull the center of the bumper inward. This also pushed the outer edges outward and eased the sides. Now, after about 2 months, I removed the coat hanger brace and the bumper remembers the shape.
rear bumper brace.jpg

Great info Pete. Good to hear that the FG conforms to the shape. My 2 horizontal gaps are even, just way to big. I 'll put pictures in my next post.
Bob

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Today I spent a lot of time aligning my rear panels. I used turn buckles to pull my side sails in to close the gaps. I am happy with those results.
P1050281s.jpg P1050280s.jpg

I was not happy with the gaps going across the car.
With my humps lined up with my side sail door openings. The total gaps between the humps, trunk, and rear bumper was 0.9 inches. They are very large. Has anyone else had this problem? Or is it just me?
Bob

P1050278s.jpg P1050276s.jpg P1050275s.jpg

[Hindsight]

When it comes to panels that need to "settle" into place, I wonder if using weights or wires or whatever to get them bent/flexed properly and then putting a halogen lamp a couple feet away shining shining on the panel for a couple days would "set" it?

[RM1SepEx]

I use gallon jugs, gravity, time and temp will indeed help them to conform to shape

Bob the gaps are indeed large, like Pete the rear arcs don't match, you need a larger gap at the engine cover to trunk joint as they are curved and need to be able to rotate. That's why I said screw it to hinges. They have to be in the humps and I didn't like the complexity, too easy to damage the finish. That's why I bolted the engine cover down... I'm going to make a small hinged cover in the hump aluminum to access the oil fill and dipstick.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I put my Race splitter on just to see what it looks like.
I LIKE IT.
What is the little diffuser on the splitter for?
Bob

[Frank818]

Hey me too I got the race. What are you going to fit between the splitter and under battery tray (under gas tank for you)? There is an open section in the floor before and under the steering rack, I was just measuring that this morning at 3am, couldn't sleep cuz I thought I was missing a part or something in the build process...

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Michael and I have spent the last 12 hours of 818 time working on the front hood, bumpers and fenders.
We are slowly getting close.
Our gaps are pretty good now. Once we are done with the gaps we will start trimming al the returns on hood, humps, and trunk.
So far we have done very little panel trimming.

Bob

[RM1SepEx]

Looks great Bob, you need the windshield too because that area can be a bear!

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Looks great Bob, you need the windshield too because that area can be a bear!

Dan,
The windshield frame is installed, even though you can't see it.
I have it down low and leaned all the way back.
What is your distance between the fender tips and the windshield frame.
Bob

[RM1SepEx]

Maybe 3/16 out of town today can't measure until tomorrow
Photos on my thread be sure to measure up from rockers and back from top rear sq tube. You can't expect it to be even just due to slot position. Mine is down and forward on the left and back and up on the right

[Frank818]

Woa, that hood/bumper gap is awesome. 12h at 2 people, I don't wanna know how long it will take for me alone...

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I'm bringing the discussion on rear radiator over to my thread and off Chad's.

I second a quality racing radiator like what Ron Davis makes. 3-4 times thicker than stock.
If you think about it, all of the exhaust, the engine and the tranny are all in that space. The tranny gets hot. Even when moving there is very likely some dead-air spots back there in the stock kit configuration. I do not care for the idea of anything in the back working off pre-heated air; certainly not the radiator. Segregating it and supplying it with fresh air seems impractical.

That's what I meant, all that hot air going through the radiator. I could not keep the engine compartment cool with the rear hatch off (humps). It still caused my oil cooler to get too hot.

Scargo,
I totally agree on using a higher quality radiator.

Mine has a core that is twice the thickness as the OEM.
http://www.cxracing.com/mm5/merchant...Category_Code=

Yes I have a lot of heat producing components in the engine bay. But I also have 2 big *** fans removing heat from the compartment.

The hard part is getting cool air in.
First I will recess the side sails to make each opening 5" x 12".
If that isn't enough, I will add some scoops.

I plan on running my first autocross (body on) in a week or 2. Then a track day in mid May.
Bob

[Tamra]

I hope it works! Can't wait to hear how the autocross goes.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

With all the talk of hot engine bays. Michael and I built our radiator fan shroud tonight to help force hot air out of the engine bay. We are using 2 12" pusher fans.
This should replace all the air in the engine bay every 3 seconds. We should not have a heat problem.

Bob

My radiator without the shroud. Disregard the awic cooler. It's not going there.
radiator.jpg

Fan Shroud inside view
fan schroud.jpg

radiator assembly
fan assembly.jpg

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Building on my 818 sometime take a back seat to my LS218 work.
Here are a couple of new videos.
Bob

https://youtu.be/o3DiAecsh_0

https://youtu.be/_dbuP4vhlPM

[Ellimist]

Building on my 818 sometime take a back seat to my LS218 work.
Here are a couple of new videos.
Bob

https://youtu.be/o3DiAecsh_0

https://youtu.be/_dbuP4vhlPM

That's a seriously cool bike!

[Harley818]

Hi Bob,
I have alot of the same problems you do. I have kit 100.

I have about 5/8 gap between the trunk and bumper and humps.
My philosophy is not to stress the fiberglass to much but work it so it fits without stress.

I started by assembling the front off the car, then setting the front on the car so that the fenders would be centered on the wheels. I radiused the front bumper mounting points so I would have a bit more wiggle room.

When the fender was set, I had to raise the back fender mounts with a 1/2 in spacer to clear the windshield. Initially i had it too high till Dan pointed that out. Now its good.
Once the front is set, I adjusted the side sails front to back till the front could mount correctly on the front of the side sails. You don't really have any adjustment with this. Now double check your windshield rake and position so that you can still add the soft top. Mine needed a bit of adjustment.
That really sets the location of the side sails. Mine are not 5/8, but actually flush with the front. (0 inches instead of 5/8 from the front).
You asked what the impact is if you go back to 7/8. I don't think you will be able to connect the front fenders.
Can you still connect the front fenders with it located at 7/8? Are your front wheels centered in the wheelwells? I based my front location centered on the wheels, then that defines where the back goes. i can adjust the front to back location of my rear wheels with the adjustable trailing links.
Once I did all this, the rear section just barely cleared the rollbar, but ended up with big gaps between the trunks and bumper. i can always add fiberglass to fix that.
I did have to pull up each side sail at the rear mounting location to get it in far enough to give me 1/8 gaps. I have 13 3/4 distance from the top shock bolt to the outside of the rear fender at the wheels. Both sides are a bit different if you measure from the top of the fender to the rear cross-bar. I have different measurements than Dan in this area. For some reason, its not the same side to side, and mine are opposite to Dans.
I'm going into the garage tomorrow to see if I can get it finalized.
Dont forget to install your windshield fiberglass trim..... it will get in the way if you don't factor it in.

Good luck.... nice build so far.... on both.

[RM1SepEx]

Harley, I'm between 5/8 and 7/8 on the side sails, my rear lower brace allows for no additional forward movement on the rear clip! I can't go farther back or the side brackets for the door latch can't meet the body opening. I only have 13 inches to the sides of the rear wheel openings from the shock mount. My back/side fender mounts are tweaked to make them follow the body contour better and shimmed up with a couple washers. My only problem now is the roll bar clearance