MRG MotorSports 818S Build

[Brando]

No problem. I love the OpposedForces website for things like that.

That saved me so much legwork looking for a few random missing parts. Thanks!

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I'm Doing my wiring dissection.
I am going to keep the OBDII connector in this diagram.
Do I need the rest and what are they for?
connectors.jpg

Bob

[Ravendas]

You'll need B75/B76 if you want to flash the ECU. You might also need B300, depends on the year.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

You'll need B75/B76 if you want to flash the ECU. You might also need B300, depends on the year.

It was an 04 forester XT
Bob

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I am doing a wire dissection not a wire diet.
Instead of pulling out all the all the unneeded wires, I am removing all the needed wires.
This is something I can do without going out in the cold garage.
A couple of pictures.
P1040850s.jpgP1040863s.jpgP1040864s.jpg

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I pulled out each of the sub harnesses that I need.
Wayne's Harness is looking better every day.
Bob

[Ravendas]

It was an 04 forester XT
Bob

Ok, then you just need the test connectors. No jumper block is necessary.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I thought I'd put up a couple of pictures of the 818 ICE
Bob
P1040891S.jpg
P1040895S.jpg

[AZPete]

Please stop posting pictures of your blue frame. It makes me jealous and regretful. :-)

[Rasmus]

I admire that you're doing the wiring. Stay the course.

The site of your green table makes my forearms phantom itch. Dah!

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Please stop posting pictures of your blue frame. It makes me jealous and regretful. :-)

ok, here is a picture of my 818 BEV
P1040654s.jpg

[AZPete]

Thanks. I'm feeling better now and capped the vodka.

[metalmaker12]

ok, here is a picture of my 818 BEV
P1040654s.jpg

Hey your missing a body lol

[gwarden]

ok, here is a picture of my 818 BEV
P1040654s.jpg

Who made the seat your using?

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Hey your missing a body lol

P1040674s.jpg

Who made the seat your using?

That was just a temporary seat from Jegs $40
Note: That seat is only 1" from the floor and my daughter in the picture is only 5'4"
Bob

[Bob_n_Cincy]

What is the most desirable physical location for a battery disconnect switch to meet racing rules?

In the circuit it obvious that the switch goes between the battery plus and the fuse block.
Does the main starter cable got through the switch or not?
Does the alternator main wire attach before or after the switch?

Thanks Bob

[longislandwrx]

"It shall be mounted so that it is easily accessible from the outside"

Either outside the car or right inside the body to the left of the steering wheel would be the best spot.

You want to eliminate all live circuits in the car, so severing the connection as close to the battery is what you are trying to accomplish.

to do it right, a kill switch with alternator protection is probably your best bet.

It will short out the alternator and eliminate the chance of the car continuing to run

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...asp?RecID=1464

killswitchengage.JPG

[Bob_n_Cincy]

"It shall be mounted so that it is easily accessible from the outside" Either outside the car or right inside the body to the left of the steering wheel would be the best spot. You want to eliminate all live circuits in the car, so severing the connection as close to the battery is what you are trying to accomplish. to do it right, a kill switch with alternator protection is probably your best bet. It will short out the alternator and eliminate the chance of the car continuing to run
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...asp?RecID=1464
killswitchengage.JPG

Thanks LongIsland,
I'm glad I don't have to run the #2 starter wire through the switch.
I see they use and auxiliary contact to the ignition coils. This is because things like radiator fans, alternator and blower motors act as generators to hold up the 12 volts for a few seconds after power is disconnected.
Bob

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I need to buy some aluminum for the rear firewall. Where do I buy a 24" x 48" sheet from?
Motor side of wall. Has somebody made a sketch for this piece?
Bob

[RM1SepEx]

I buy full 4 x 8 sheets from my local steel and other metal supplier. Check online When I ran a search 5-6 popped up in the Cincy area. They may sell sheared, partial sheets and will def. shear to any size you want for a fee

[wleehendrick]

If you don't have a local place, this week, I bought some steel and Al from:

onlinemetals.com

Great selection and they'll cut to spec. Really fast for the first shipment, still waiting on a couple pieces. They even provide cert sheets.

[AZPete]

It much easier before you drop the engine in! I bought a piece of .040 aluminum big enough for the rear firewall (17" x 50") but then could not get it in place with the enginein, so I cut it into 3 pieces. Now, I can easily remove & install any of the three with the engine in place. I'll post a photo when I get home that shows 2 panels removed as I work on wiring.

Edit: See new Rear Firewall thread in Body section.

[RM1SepEx]

Pete, my engine's been in for months... I want to do pieces, photos please... I'd love outlines...

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I'm Working on a cad drawing. I still have to measure a couple more time before I trust it's accuracy.
Bob

[AZPete]

Hey guys, we've highjacked the MRG build thread! I just added a new thread in the Body section about the rear firewall.
Okay, MRG, continue on.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

As the transmission is so exposed to the rear of the car. I decide to find a way to make it shorter.
This is my solution.



The plain white box is a hole cut in the side of the transmission. The red box is a bar attached to the front of the shifter shaft.
A bellows would be added to keep oil from splashing out the hole.



I am going to cut everything off at the neutral safety switch. I could go a couple of inches shorter but I have to leave enough for the shifter shaft slide bearing.

The rear of the transmission will be sealed by welding plates over exposed holes.

The green bar sticking out the side can be connected to cables or a linkage to the shifter.

Let me know if I was clear on this modification or if you have questions.
Bob

[STiPWRD]

Wow that seems like a complex modification. I'm curious to see how it will look when finished. How are you planning on sealing the bellows to the transfer case housing and attaching the bar to the shift selector shaft? I hope none of the bearings supporting the lower pinion shaft and selector shaft will be impacted by cutting the transfer case at the neutral safety switch.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Wow that seems like a complex modification. I'm curious to see how it will look when finished. How are you planning on sealing the bellows to the transfer case housing and attaching the bar to the shift selector shaft? I hope none of the bearings supporting the lower pinion shaft and selector shaft will be impacted by cutting the transfer case at the neutral safety switch.

No bearings will be affected. See this picture. all the bearing in in that section are for the center dif.
This picture also is a good shot of where the locking collar goes.
5th gear.jpg
Sealing the bellows to the case is not totally worked out yet. I'm looking at something like this:
billows.jpg
I will have the bar welded to the shift selector.
Up would be 5th and reverse
down would be 1st & 2nd
forward would be 1st,3rd,5th
backward would be 2nd,4th, rev.
Bob

[RM1SepEx]

It will work but seems to be too complicated... there is tons of empty space in the transaxle case.

why not just shorten the shaft and modify the shifter brackets, that should leave a couple inches

the rear of the bumper should have been a couple inches longer, leaving room for a proper bumper behind the fiberglass

[Bob_n_Cincy]

It will work but seems to be too complicated... there is tons of empty space in the transaxle case.

why not just shorten the shaft and modify the shifter brackets, that should leave a couple inches

the rear of the bumper should have been a couple inches longer, leaving room for a proper bumper behind the fiberglass

I was looking at this from a racer point of view. With my set up the car can get bumped in the back and the shifter mechanism will survive. Also have 6-7" between the trans and the fiberglass leaving plenty of room for some nerf bars.

[icky]

No bearings will be affected. See this picture. all the bearing in in that section are for the center dif.
This picture also is a good shot of where the locking collar goes.
5th gear.jpg
Sealing the bellows to the case is not totally worked out yet. I'm looking at something like this:
billows.jpg
I will have the bar welded to the shift selector.
Up would be 5th and reverse
down would be 1st & 2nd
forward would be 1st,3rd,5th
backward would be 2nd,4th, rev.
Bob

This might be an option, too.

http://www.subarugears.com/FAQ/FAQ.html
if you read through their guide, you will need a certain center housing and one of "their plugs", or the right size freeze plug.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

This might be an option, too.

http://www.subarugears.com/FAQ/FAQ.html
if you read through their guide, you will need a certain center housing and one of "their plugs", or the right size freeze plug.

Great find ICKY
The below pictures show the locking collar installed. The second picture shows the transmission shortened to the max.
You have me debating on where to connect to the shifter shaft.
As you can see in the second picture almost 6" (eyeball measurement) could be cut off.
Bob

[Slatt]

Creating room at the back would help so many of us for so many different reasons. I enthusiastically say follow your muse on this one. And let us know what the machine costs look like.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Does any one have an extra center diff housing laying around for me to practice on?
Or can I buy them somewhere?
Bob

[Bob_n_Cincy]

No, this has nothing to do with my BRAKES,
As the temps got up into the high forties today. Mike wanted to go play in the mud.
See before after pictures below.
clean ATV.jpg

after
mud.jpg

It was a very sticky mud and clay mess.
took it to the carwash, it was frozen
carwash.jpg


Spent about an hour with hose and pressure washer cleaning it up.
Bob

[metalmaker12]

Does any one have an extra center diff housing laying around for me to practice on?
Or can I buy them somewhere?
Bob

Go on Nasioc, you will find one

[Mechie3]

Great find ICKY
The below pictures show the locking collar installed. The second picture shows the transmission shortened to the max.
You have me debating on where to connect to the shifter shaft.
As you can see in the second picture almost 6" (eyeball measurement) could be cut off.
Bob

Where did that piece come from? I have a transmission case with broken gears that i intended to get rebuilt but would be interested in try to replicate what you see in that photo and sharing what i find.

Edit: found the video you got those shots from.

[icky]

for those that are internet handicapped. After watching again, you can just tig all the holes with 1/8" aluminium plate.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Where did that piece come from? I have a transmission case with broken gears that i intended to get rebuilt but would be interested in try to replicate what you see in that photo and sharing what i find.

Edit: found the video you got those shots from.

Hi Mechie3
That will definitely shorten thing by 4 or 5 inches.
I'm going to leave the case the same length as the outer tube shown in the picture. That way if you get bumped, nothing gets hurt internal.
I will attach my shifting mechanism to the other end of the shaft.
Busy right now with my wire dissection.
Bob

[Mechie3]

I like the super cut down version with the custom sleeve. They could probably cut the shaft a bit too.