818Rasmus E Modified

[Rasmus]

Honing Plate just arrived. AKA Torque Plate.

[Scargo]

Cool. Can you do a before and after measurement on one side or one cylinder? I have a motor with 17K on it that I'm building for the 818. I measured it, then lightly honed/deglazed it without the plate. All of the surfaces honed nicely. I remeasured it and it still is within specs (marginally). I'm putting fully coated CP pistons in it. They seemed spot-on dimensionally, even with the coating. We'll see how it works. It is a race motor.

[Rasmus]

Cool. Can you do a before and after measurement on one side or one cylinder?

I'll give it the ol' college try. I'm gonna have a machine shop do mine, since my pistons are slightly over bore. 99.5mm to a whopping 99.75mm. MONSTER OVER BORE!

[Frank818]

since my pistons are slightly over bore. 99.5mm to a whopping 99.75mm. MONSTER OVER BORE!

LOLLLLL!!!!! That is equal to the human's biggest hair. Man you'll get so much more torque with that over bore!

[Rasmus]

That is equal to the human's biggest hair. Man you'll get so much more torque with that over bore!

Just wait 'til I put the NOS stickers on! Much torque. Fast very.

[longislandwrx]

IMG_0270.jpg

[Mechie3]

HAHAHA! Doge!

[Rasmus]

Actually laughing at that image, LongIsland. Much funny.

[apexanimal]

brilliant!

[Rasmus]

Been working on the rear spindles, knuckles, and brake assemblies. Rusty, crusty.


This BOLT! I never understood why the wetter/colder parts of the world complained about this bolt. Then I bought this setup from the North East United States...


**** it with a cactus!

[Frank818]

Do you remove grease first or do you do some kind of washing before you electrify them in water?

[Rasmus]

Do you remove grease first or do you do some kind of washing before you electrify them in water?

Two things to always keep in mind with rust electrolysis:
1. The negative terminal (black) must go on the work. Unless you want your part to get rustier.
2. The process works by line-of-sight. If your rusty area is covered in grease and can't see the anode it won't de-rust. I usually wipe off any heavy grease areas with a shop rag. Not to "clean" just to expose enough of the rust to to let the process work. I wire brush the crustys off. The flaky stuff. Think: 30 second, high schooler effort. Then dunk.

[Rasmus]

It amazes me how well and easy this rust electrolysis process performs. The above rear knuckle has been cathodizing for about 6 hours. All those rusty bits are just business card to postage stamp size surface flakes now. 95% of it came off with a 2 minute wire brushing and a garden hosing. Missed a few areas so I realigned the part and dunked it for another session. Line-of-sight issue. The anode got super rusty funky for session one.

And that's the same water and washing soda solution with which I started. I had to add a pint of water or so due to evaporation but the solution doesn't go bad. You just keep reusing it until the wife threatens to SuperFund the garage if you don't change it out.

[Frank818]

Do you really need to use a metal container or a 5-gal plastic one would work?

[Rasmus]

Do you really need to use a metal container or a 5-gal plastic one would work?

My current set up sits in a 5 gallon plastic bucket. The anode must be steel/iron. So you could use a steel bucket and the whole bucket could be the anode. Problem is the more anode you've got the larger your power supply will need to be.


I would love to have a 15 gallon plastic tub, but I just make due with the 5 gallon. Plus I can pickup the 5'er when it's full of water. I'd need help moving 15 gallons of water and the wife would be none to thrilled if I she was the one doing the helping.

[Greg G]

I would love to have a 15 gallon plastic tub, but I just make due with the 5 gallon. Plus I can pickup the 5'er when it's full of water. I'd need help moving 15 gallons of water and the wife would be none to thrilled if I she was the one doing the helping.

How about something like this?

55 gallon plastic barrel:
http://bloomington.craigslist.org/mat/4334407788.html

You could put it on a wheeled dolly, cut the sides down to the desired height/volume, and you are set!

[longislandwrx]

http://www.amsperformance.com/cart/A...Kit-Front.html

saw that and thought of you 15" fitment.

[Rasmus]

How about something like this?
You could put it on a wheeled dolly, cut the sides down to the desired height/volume, and you are set!

Brilliant idea! Could you pick me one up from that CL ad and drop it off at my place. Pay you the price you get it for; I'll even give you $5 extra for gas.

saw that and thought of you 15" fitment.

My current thought is to use a modified version of the 12" Wilwood kit offered by FFR for the front of my rollerskate.


Instead of the 12" Rotor No: 160-8495 costing $164.93 MSRP


I'm looking at using the 12.19" Rotor No: 160-0277 costing $35.63 MSRP

Let that price difference sink in: $330 vs $72 for full front replacement. Track days eat rotors. It looks like Wilwoods caliper adapter can easily be spaced out the additional .095 inches. But I don't know if that'll make the caliper too close to a 15" wheel.

Plus if I get really crazy I could have a lightweight 12.19" setup dedicated just to autocross:


Rotor No: 160-5865 or,


Rotor No: 160-8136

[longislandwrx]

That's the nice thing about Wilwood, they list all the components in the "kit" I thought about nixing the slotted rotors for solid ones, I didn't realize the cost savings would be so substantial!

on the 13.06 rotors you only save $15 each, but that's still $60 on all 4.

[Racebrewer]

My current thought is to use a modified version of the 12" Wilwood kit offered by FFR for the front of my rollerskate.


Instead of the 12" Rotor No: 160-8495 costing $164.93 MSRP


I'm looking at using the 12.19" Rotor No: 160-0277 costing $35.63 MSRP

Let that price difference sink in: $330 vs $72 for full front replacement. Track days eat rotors. It looks like Wilwoods caliper adapter can easily be spaced out the additional .095 inches. But I don't know if that'll make the caliper too close to a 15" wheel.


Great idea!!!

How about just cutting the bigger disks down to 12" on a lathe? That's the kind of job that can be bought for a couple six-packs.

John

[Rasmus]

Here's a better before/after shot. After pulling the part out I wire brushed it down for 5 minutes then misted it with WD-40, to Displace the Water. Parts come out dull charcoal black. I hypothesize the black is the "good rust", aka magnetite. Magnetite is Fe3O4. Red rust (or “hematite”) is Fe2O3. Unlike red rust, black rust is protective and prevents corrosion. Also, things bond better to magnetite than bare iron (for example, polymerized fat). Black rust is not sufficient by itself to protect cast iron from corrosion. Also, it’s easily removed.

[Scargo]

Where do I get this "polymerized fat"? What colors does it come in? Nice looking part, BTW.

[Greg G]

Brilliant idea! Could you pick me one up from that CL ad and drop it off at my place. Pay you the price you get it for; I'll even give you $5 extra for gas.

$5? Naw, you buy the beers and we are even

[Rasmus]

Well I dun did it.


Trying to press out the long bolt from the Left Rear Knuckle I cracked it. Not the bolt. The knuckle. That long bolt is IN THERE. Almost like it was welded.

Anyone got a extra one they'd be willing to sell?

[Rasmus]

Where do I get this "polymerized fat"? What colors does it come in? Nice looking part, BTW.

Comes in blackish brown. You coat the part in motor oil and bake it at 450F for about an hour. No really. It's like seasoning a cast iron pan, except you're seasoning a cast iron car part.

[Greg G]

Holy crap!

[metalmaker12]

Use pb blast and a little heat carefully next time, I will check, I might have one. Btw nice job on cleaning them up, pretty cool way to do it.

[Greg G]

Shall I drop off one of those plastic barrels to your house too while I am on my way to Vegas? lol ROADTRIP!

[Rasmus]

Use pb blast and a little heat carefully next time, I will check, I might have one. Btw nice job on cleaning them up, pretty cool way to do it.

Thanks for checking.

And I actually did heat it up with a MAP gas torch just before I started pressing. Heated up each hole for about 1 minute per. I'd also PB blaster'ed it at least 5 times prior to using the press.

Shall I drop off one of those plastic barrels to your house too while I am on my way to Vegas? lol ROADTRIP!

See you when you get here. And like I ask all people who come to visit me in Vegas, "What hotel you staying at?"

[metros]

Nice find out those rotor rings. I'm also planning on using the wilwood set up. I'm going to try to order that kit with the cheaper blank rotor faces and spare rings to keep in the garage. Should be a substantial savings for a lot of us.

[Greg G]

See you when you get here. And like I ask all people who come to visit me in Vegas, "What hotel you staying at?"

That would be the "No-Tell Motel" on 69th Street

[FFRSpec72]

I bet those bearings are in great shape after all that cleaning !

[Rasmus]

I bet those bearings are in great shape after all that cleaning !

Good mind on you. Immersing the bearings and races in water for 12+ hours would have been a bad idea.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Hey Rasmus
Do you have any advice on removing ABS sensors from rusty spindles?

To get the link bolts out of the spindles I cut between the arm and the spindle. Then used a pneumatic hammer from harbor freight to drive it out.
http://www.harborfreight.com/air-imp...kit-92037.html
The hard part is getting the bolt out of the lateral link arms, if you are trying to save the bushing.

Did you have any trouble getting the ball joint out of the front spindles?
Bob

[Scargo]

I think you blew it up with heating. It was the antisocial isotropic thermal expansion behavior of NBR. Hell, it's a guess. I see that NBR has a CTE 20 times that of iron.

[Rasmus]

Hey Rasmus
Do you have any advice on removing ABS sensors from rusty spindles?

Did you have any trouble getting the ball joint out of the front spindles?
Bob

On the ABS sensors I just hit 'em with PB Blaster then after 2 hours reclocked the shoulder tab with a small pry bar ~30 degrees. I didn't pry up on the shoulder tab, just forced it sideways to break the rust bonds. I used a blunt tool to press the sensor out from the "back" side while twisting the sensor top by hand.

I did have trouble with the ball joints. I clamped the knuckle down to my table then reattached a control arm to the ball. BFH to the arm and eventually they came out. I got the them both out without tearing the boots but the cups were so rusted I didn't feel safe reusing them. I've got them in the shed if you want a picture.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

On the ABS sensors I just hit 'em with PB Blaster then after 2 hours reclocked the shoulder tab with a small pry bar ~30 degrees. I didn't pry up on the shoulder tab, just forced it sideways to break the rust bonds. I used a blunt tool to press the sensor out from the "back" side while twisting the sensor top by hand.

I did have trouble with the ball joints. I clamped the knuckle down to my table then reattached a control arm to the ball. BFH to the arm and eventually they came out. I got the them both out without tearing the boots but the cups were so rusted I didn't feel safe reusing them. I've got them in the shed if you want a picture.

I've soaked my ABS sensors many times and still no movement. Good Idea to press the rears out but you can't do that on the fronts.

The front ball joints on the 818 support the weight of the of the car as compared to the WRX were it is just a carrier joint. Put some quality new ones in. I used MOOG K9513 about $25 each from Rock Auto.
Bob

[Frank818]

I did have trouble with the ball joints. I clamped the knuckle down to my table then reattached a control arm to the ball. BFH to the arm and eventually they came out. I got the them both out without tearing the boots but the cups were so rusted I didn't feel safe reusing them.

That seems to be common.
I'll have to go through that as I will replace my ball joints for new ones. For the price of them, it would be much more expensive to remove the parts after installation in order to change the balls then.

[FFRSpec72]

I love the e-brake setup, what a freaking pain to disassemble and assemble. Pressing the bearing out of the rear hubs was a pain because of the backing plate and ebrake setup.

[Rasmus]

While working on all that other stuff over the weekend I finally finished a large upgrade to the garage.


I've owned epoxy floors before. Though nice it never really helped with my problem areas. The cracks. Even with epoxy floors I would spent 40% of the time cleaning the floors and 60% cleaning the cracks.



And with my all the metal shavings, grinding dust (steel, iron, aluminum), the grinding discs and flap wheels (aluminum oxide), paint dust, and just plain desert dust I can literally fill up my cracks. Especially around the work bench.



So with 200' of 5/8" diameter closed cell foam backer rod (think: solid nerf dart material)



And more tubes of concrete and masonry self-leveling stuff than I care to admit using, I filled my cracks in. Once it fully cures it should be easy to broom up all my messes. I'll no longer have to worry about the cracks swallowing up nuts, rivet mandrels, and other tiny parts.