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Thread: Goldwing's 818 Street, The Phoenix

  1. #241
    Senior Member Hobby Racer's Avatar
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    Making a box out of the scrap aluminum panels from the kit works nicely also!

    Cold Air Intake from the side vents
    MK3.1 Roadster completed 2011
    818R built with EZ36R H6 completed 2018

  2. #242
    Senior Member DSR-3's Avatar
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    Here is another option that worked pretty well. I was all set to copy Hobby's nice work and started getting hung up on the materials and design and remembered these cheap plastic ducts/adapters.
    Duct1.jpgDuct2.jpgDuct3.jpgDuct4.jpg
    818S #332, EZ30R H6, California licensed 01/2019

  3. #243
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    FFR now sells the side ducts:
    http://www.factoryfiveparts.com/8114...oop-air-ducts/

    I got a set of these a few months ago but haven't installed them yet - it'll be a winter project.

  4. #244
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    Octobersknight here, glad you're back! I'm a "new" builder and am part way through my build. I'm still a little way from go-karting, but am pushing to get there! Good luck finishing up, I'll be right along there with you.
    818C chassis #546. Ordered 8/14/18, picked up 10/6/18.
    Donor: 2006 WRX wagon, 108k miles.
    Options: Chassis powder coat, CF street splitter, rockers, diffuser, and spoiler, polished shift knob, adjustable rear lower lateral control arms, vinyl padded dash/door, complete carpet set, battery cut-off switch, wiper kit, aluminum shifter assembly, complete CV axles, harness bar mount, matte gunmetal wheels.

  5. #245
    Senior Member Goldwing's Avatar
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    I started installing the AWIC kit I bought from Zero Decibel 4 years ago. Which led to a need to finally delete the secondary air pump system and deciding to swap in the VF48 turbo I had planned to save for later. With all the stuff needed to remove to access all this, figured I might as well do it now. Stopped short of a TGV delete. Waiting for gaskets to arrive now so I can throw it all back together. This evening, I assembled my new hat while sitting with my daughter. Used a Factpry Five patch and installed it on a cap I found on Amazon. I’ll leave a link to the hat in case anyone has similar tastes.
    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TM4GL3H..._WDdJDbY494Z4M
    C9A0E492-DEED-4C22-8F72-95FA3B5B3A6F.jpg
    Rich

    818S in progress. 2007 WRX sedan donor.
    Powered up: 7-8-14, First Start: 7-20-14, Go kart: 8-19-14

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  7. #246
    Senior Member Goldwing's Avatar
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    Thanks for the replies guys. The page break kept me from seeing your comments until I added something myself. Those scoop shroud things look helpful to transition to hoses. The airbox for the intake is built. Waiting to sand and paint. I tried using a little wax as a release agent rather than sourcing pva release. It didn’t work, lol. So, I’ll need to paint to cover up the mess of embedded masking tape. I think it’ll work for my needs. I’ll post pics as I get it painted and/or installed.
    Rich

    818S in progress. 2007 WRX sedan donor.
    Powered up: 7-8-14, First Start: 7-20-14, Go kart: 8-19-14

  8. #247
    Senior Member Goldwing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hobby Racer View Post
    Making a box out of the scrap aluminum panels from the kit works nicely also!

    Cold Air Intake from the side vents
    Hobby Racer, I like what you did. I guess our thinking was along similar lines, I just used all fiberglass mat rather than dive right into metal working. My plan to cut it into a few pieces never really happened. I wound up cutting the cobbled together jugs out from inside the airbox. So, it’s all just one piece. I can access the filter’s clamp from outside the box, then take the box and filter out together. I can fit the filter out of the scoop side.

    I guess I’ll save the other side sail vent for engine bay cooling.

    Octobersnight, the go kart day does feel pretty good. I hope you get there soon. Welcome!
    Rich

    818S in progress. 2007 WRX sedan donor.
    Powered up: 7-8-14, First Start: 7-20-14, Go kart: 8-19-14

  9. #248
    Senior Member AZPete's Avatar
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    Re the side vent ducts from FFR, I have them and like them for engine intake air and to the A2A intercooler plenum. The duct on the left side, however, could hold a pool of gas if you dribble while filling the tank (kaboom!), so I drilled a 3/8" drain hole. The same may apply to any left side DIY duct.
    818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities.
    Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).

  10. #249
    Senior Member Goldwing's Avatar
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    When I made my snorkel, I tried to leave the bottom edge such that water would just drain out the bottom. Thankfully, my mind was already there, but THANK YOU for the heads up! That sort of thing can make for a very bad day!

    I just finished the AWIC kit install by Zero decibel motorsports. This was purchased 4 years ago, so revisions could have been made in the interim. It’s a great kit! I did have to make a few revisions to get things to fit. My push clutch made things really tight, so I had to put a dimple in the cross pipe. I almost went to clock the turbo (the VF 48 turbo is pretty easy to rotate the compressor housing, but I didn’t want to tackle TGV deletes too at this time. The tgv motor or sensor was going to interfere if I clocked it), but maintained the original plan. If I deleted a few more things it could have been a bit more straightforward of an install. I’m going to have to make my own forward IC bracket as the provided one didn’t fit around the turbo. I have a plan, but didn’t want to drag the welder out just for that. I used a different recirc valve tubing since something I had lying around had very convenient bends for the layout (71794 was the number on it). The recirc hose gets a pretty good squeeze behind the clutch, but it lets air pass. I still have to wire power to the water pump. I have some homework to find a convenient source for that.

    Does anyone have a COBB tune for an 07 with VF48 to throw in there until I can get this properly tuned? COBB doesn’t have any off the shelf tunes for that turbo. I may stick an economy vf39 tune in to keep me out of trouble, but have a few feelers out for advice. Can’t drive it anywhere yet to get it done, but would still like to be able to start it and test things here and there. I forgot I intended to wait for the turbo swap for this exact reason. But, one thing led to another...

    B1BC8420-FE6B-4F0A-8D4F-5205DAA6DCF2.jpg
    Rich

    818S in progress. 2007 WRX sedan donor.
    Powered up: 7-8-14, First Start: 7-20-14, Go kart: 8-19-14

  11. #250
    Senior Member Pearldrummer7's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Goldwing View Post
    Thanks everyone for the welcome back! I was wiring headlights when I ran out of steam starting to look at bumper design. Did any of run into any snags in that department or learn anything along the way? I remember you having a few pictures, Bob. I’ll need to look through a few builds to see what’s been learned while I was playing Mr. Mom. Design, thickness of steel? Can the fiberglass be utilized as a bumper if reinforced and tied to the frame?

    I’m still in digging out mode. Funny how things pile up! I have a window to work while my wife is off work on maternity leave. (We welcomed our third in August). Especially if the window comes to a close without plates bolted on this thing, some help with a last minute push to get me across the finish line would be in “make a wish” territory.
    I know this is a little old but I saw that you were looking at bumper stuff in another thread. If you're just looking to pass legality, this was totally cool in NY state:
    https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...l=1#post215816
    Frank - Build thread

  12. #251
    Senior Member Goldwing's Avatar
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    I’m definitely looking for ideas. Especially where to tie in. I worked on the front yesterday. Put a couple plumb verticals in the front triangle forward if the radiator. Then cut a rectangle of box tube steel to tie into the verticals. Might use it to stabilize the front corners while I’m at it or support fog lamps if I decide to install them.

    On the rear I was planning to tie into the horizontal rear tube at the rear. I have a trunk kit and a muffler exiting the right rear, so I’ll have to get pretty creative tying in the top of the bumper and reaching the right rear wheel track.
    Rich

    818S in progress. 2007 WRX sedan donor.
    Powered up: 7-8-14, First Start: 7-20-14, Go kart: 8-19-14

  13. #252
    Senior Member Goldwing's Avatar
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    This was the legal front bumper arrangement I came up with for Ohio. Needs to be 4.5”+ tall and below 22” off the ground and extend across the wheel track (wheel center lines). The second part won’t be an issue, lol. I welded in some matching thick wall tubing verticals, then a simple rectangle and a bracket. The pic was when it was just tacked together. Since I stuck with small tubing up front, I used 1/8” wall tubing. If a 2x6 can pass in Ohio, this shouldn’t be a concern at inspection and work well with the crumple zone angle iron design. I think I’ll anchor the outside corners to this as well to stiffen the fiberglass bumper cover up as well.

    DEDA272A-15A4-4AFE-8A48-CD27F4684091.jpg
    Rich

    818S in progress. 2007 WRX sedan donor.
    Powered up: 7-8-14, First Start: 7-20-14, Go kart: 8-19-14

  14. #253
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Goldwing View Post
    This was the legal front bumper arrangement I came up with for Ohio. Needs to be 4.5”+ tall and below 22” off the ground and extend across the wheel track (wheel center lines). The second part won’t be an issue, lol. I welded in some matching thick wall tubing verticals, then a simple rectangle and a bracket. The pic was when it was just tacked together. Since I stuck with small tubing up front, I used 1/8” wall tubing. If a 2x6 can pass in Ohio, this shouldn’t be a concern at inspection and work well with the crumple zone angle iron design. I think I’ll anchor the outside corners to this as well to stiffen the fiberglass bumper cover up as well.

    DEDA272A-15A4-4AFE-8A48-CD27F4684091.jpg
    Rich, I tied my Ohio bars back to the main frame.
    I don't think the bolt on portion of frame as a crumple zone. At one time I was thinking of filling the radiator area with Nascar crush foam. Below is what I ended up width.
    Bob
    P1050805.jpg
    818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
    My Son Michael's Turbo ICE Build X22 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rts-818S-Build
    My Electric Supercar Build X21 (on hold until winter) http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-Build-Thread

  15. #254
    Senior Member Goldwing's Avatar
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    I like your setup out front a lot more than what I came up with. Unfortunately, I’m low on available time and energy to do the reworking required to do something similar. I’d have to move two heat exchangers (radiator and AWIC) and still try and find room for my planned AC condenser. I had thoughts of foam at one point too, I forgot about those plans in my absence. I had thoughts of tying in an extra triangular brace to the front bumper ends, but wanted to see how a few more things fit together before welding that in. My wife is getting impatient with my garage time, so I’m sprinting forward for now.

    I started planning the rear bumper today. Came up with a plan, but didn’t get as far as mocking it up just yet. I could not find a way to run anything straight across, so I’m trying to follow the contour of the rear bumper shell. I ran a solid 3/4” steel dowel through the transmission tail horizontal, and fitting 1/8” wall 1” tubing over that to tie in at the bottom. A bolt through each to keep the dowel from sliding out. From there a riser to the rectangular bumper that will straddle the gear selector and follow the contour with two bends. I have a big ol’ muffler in the way on the passenger side to snake past. I think I got it past, but didn’t finish mocking up to verify. Fingers crossed. The top of the bumper will have a brace running below the trunk at the seams to mounting plates that will tie in at the shock tower brace lower mount. Because I installed a VF48 turbo, I need to modify the shock tower brace to detour around the turbo waste gate actuator. This turbo’s actuator is clocked more to the center and has a taller waste gate post to clear an exhaust turbo to downpipe flange. It was pointed out that modifying the shock tower brace could cause problems for dynamic loading on the street or track. While I will move forward with that modification taking inspiration from bolt in tow hitch designs, I’ll run an extra straight bar between the upper bumper mounting plates to more than make up for any loss of stiffness of the shock tower brace. I hope to brace the ends of the bumper back to the bracing but couldn’t visualize all that just yet. Too many things up in the air. I’ll mount the trunk to the upper bumper brace running below it, so I don’t have to screw it to the engine cover. I can still screw the rear lip of the trunk to the rear bumper shell. I’ll post pics once mocked up or complete. I also noticed I’ll have to notch out the center trunk tray where my zero decibel motorsports AWIC brace interferes. Of course it does, lol. Like moving the remote mount brake reservoir twice already, and soon a third time when I install FFR’s new single wiper kit, lol. Why I waited to finish front bumper bracing. Legal for now, working on safer.

    Looking at how long that got, a picture truly is worth a thousand words, lol.
    Last edited by Goldwing; 10-10-2019 at 09:33 PM.
    Rich

    818S in progress. 2007 WRX sedan donor.
    Powered up: 7-8-14, First Start: 7-20-14, Go kart: 8-19-14

  16. #255
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Here is a pic of my rear bumper.
    bump.jpg

    let me know if you need a hand.
    Bob
    818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
    My Son Michael's Turbo ICE Build X22 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rts-818S-Build
    My Electric Supercar Build X21 (on hold until winter) http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-Build-Thread

  17. #256
    Senior Member Goldwing's Avatar
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    9ECD21E9-48E4-41D6-926A-0B2E84F4CBBA.jpg9ECD21E9-48E4-41D6-926A-0B2E84F4CBBA.jpg83484F77-B2D2-4B2F-A876-6413BFDEB4FE.jpg83484F77-B2D2-4B2F-A876-6413BFDEB4FE.jpg

    Here I go and plan things that don’t let me copy your designs again, lol. My trunk kit would interfere with that. My phone or the site is acting up tonight. Third attempt to respond. I’ll tie in the same way up top. I’ll either add bracing to reinforce the bends or add a solid bar behind the upper bar to tackle any weakness introduced by the bends. Maybe an extra hoop up higher, but these bars sit at what seems an average bumper height for cars.. Tacked together a start:
    Rich

    818S in progress. 2007 WRX sedan donor.
    Powered up: 7-8-14, First Start: 7-20-14, Go kart: 8-19-14

  18. #257
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Goldwing View Post
    9ECD21E9-48E4-41D6-926A-0B2E84F4CBBA.jpg9ECD21E9-48E4-41D6-926A-0B2E84F4CBBA.jpg83484F77-B2D2-4B2F-A876-6413BFDEB4FE.jpg83484F77-B2D2-4B2F-A876-6413BFDEB4FE.jpg

    Here I go and plan things that don’t let me copy your designs again, lol. My trunk kit would interfere with that. My phone or the site is acting up tonight. Third attempt to respond. I’ll tie in the same way up top. I’ll either add bracing to reinforce the bends or add a solid bar behind the upper bar to tackle any weakness introduced by the bends. Maybe an extra hoop up higher, but these bars sit at what seems an average bumper height for cars.. Tacked together a start:
    looks good. When I did mine I had a rear radiator. I like your solution better.
    Bob
    818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
    My Son Michael's Turbo ICE Build X22 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rts-818S-Build
    My Electric Supercar Build X21 (on hold until winter) http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-Build-Thread

  19. #258
    Senior Member Goldwing's Avatar
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    I had the welder out to assemble the rear bumper and modify the shock tower brace to clear the VF48 turbo I installed. I’ll add bracing further towards the bumper ends once the car is closer to completion. I’m getting fatigued with adjusting stuff because I didn’t foresee it interfering with another component further down the build. I know I’m not the only one to move the remote brake reservoir...more than once, lol. I added tabs to the upper bumper brace to attach the trunk tray. I didn’t want to bolt the trunk to the engine cover. That just sounds like a pain for access.

    Separately, after installing a VF48 ‘08 STI turbo, I ran into the interference issue with the waste gate hitting the shock tower brace. I rerouted the main 1” bar along the 3/4” angle brace, mitering a piece to rejoin. When I add bracing to both bumpers, I think I’ll add an extra plate between the bars to spread the forces out a bit more. My goodness was this a mission creep experience. Hmm, let’s install the AWIC I bought 4 years ago. Oh, well while all this stuff is disassembled, let’s put that turbo in and clean the parts shelf off a bit more. Crap! It interferes with the shock brace! Now on to modify the trunk tray so it doesn’t interfere with the beautiful AWIC brace it sadly covers. Maybe I should just install a plexiglass window in the trunk tray where I trim it so we can still see it! Think it would melt?
    F86659A3-D0ED-44A9-B650-E35E28B49F8D.jpg
    068D2CA3-63B1-44E3-B77F-C6207AEFECFC.jpg
    Rich

    818S in progress. 2007 WRX sedan donor.
    Powered up: 7-8-14, First Start: 7-20-14, Go kart: 8-19-14

  20. #259

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    Here is my rear bumper/intercooler support. It is removable (Intercooler will be moved to side scoops at some point as the rear is not a good place for it)





    and the turbo clearance notch.


  21. #260
    Senior Member Goldwing's Avatar
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    Intercooler location is a tough one in this car. I almost went to the sides as well. I went AWIC instead. That bumper is multitasking nicely! Attachment points kept me guessing. I loathe scraping off the powder coating.
    Rich

    818S in progress. 2007 WRX sedan donor.
    Powered up: 7-8-14, First Start: 7-20-14, Go kart: 8-19-14

  22. #261
    Senior Member Goldwing's Avatar
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    Cut the trunk tray to make clearance for the AWIC bracket. Boxed in the notch, I’ll add fiberglass cloth to reinforce after easing the corners a bit so the cloth can wrap the corners and fillet the inside corners. Hoping to get the the hood hinge epoxied down that same day. 5DAF3D18-F511-4E9F-9F00-0512B716F95C.jpg

    The shock tower mod allowed for the turbo shield as well. Lowered 3/4”, cut a wing out for the waste gate, and expanded the dimple to clear the bar. I had figured it was a no go, surprised it fits. That’s why all the tubes are covered in silicone or heat shield tubing. Trying to manage the heat with a turbo blanket. Now both. 62254E1B-E763-4025-A78D-A25FDCC1425F.jpg
    Rich

    818S in progress. 2007 WRX sedan donor.
    Powered up: 7-8-14, First Start: 7-20-14, Go kart: 8-19-14

  23. #262
    Senior Member Goldwing's Avatar
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    The headlight fitment and the adjacent seam is officially a PITA, lol. Spent way too much time massaging these. I’m still not happy with the gap along the lower part of the headlight, but too fatigued on the spot to fuss any more.A6E58FCC-158A-4ABE-A97A-BA39A974BF6C.jpg
    Rich

    818S in progress. 2007 WRX sedan donor.
    Powered up: 7-8-14, First Start: 7-20-14, Go kart: 8-19-14

  24. #263
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    It is a PITA! It was with the old nose and the new version nose also the same, a PITA. Once you get it right, you don't want to remove it in case you can't put it back exactly the same way!
    I was not happy about gaps for a looong time, eventually I found a way to minimize them but had to accept the left overs. And now I don't see those gaps anymore cuz I don't touch at all the front end, just in case I mess something up. loll
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 GT3582R one-time dyno target 500whp/wtq+
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Bulid time before being driveable: over 5000h
    Driveable since Sep 27th 2019!

  25. #264

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    POR 15 is on point for matching the existing powdercoating. Its self leveling properties are good for brush on applications as well.

  26. #265
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kurk818 View Post
    POR 15 is on point for matching the existing powdercoating. Its self leveling properties are good for brush on applications as well.
    True. It matches almost perfectly, so close you have to pay attention to see it's different.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 GT3582R one-time dyno target 500whp/wtq+
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Bulid time before being driveable: over 5000h
    Driveable since Sep 27th 2019!

  27. #266

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    I had a similar issue with the gap along the bumper and the headlight. White colored door edging fixed that nicely.


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  29. #267
    Senior Member DSR-3's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kurk818 View Post
    POR 15 is on point for matching the existing powdercoating.
    *And it's a hell of a lot more durable!
    818S #332, EZ30R H6, California licensed 01/2019

  30. #268
    Senior Member Goldwing's Avatar
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    Great ideas! Thanks! Does the white POR15 handle UV exposure better? I had that classified in my head as UV sensitive. Maybe I have that wrong? I guess vinyl wrapped or painted would take care of that. I’ve been letting my head search for trim ideas. The door trim is a great one.
    Rich

    818S in progress. 2007 WRX sedan donor.
    Powered up: 7-8-14, First Start: 7-20-14, Go kart: 8-19-14

  31. #269
    Senior Member Hobby Racer's Avatar
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    POR-15 is not UV stable. It needs a topcoat or something to shield it from direct sunlight.
    MK3.1 Roadster completed 2011
    818R built with EZ36R H6 completed 2018

  32. #270
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    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XKTVXJK..._QF7RDbPZAFXQH

    This white POR15 is labeled as UV resistant.

  33. #271
    Senior Member Hobby Racer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by grabera7 View Post
    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XKTVXJK..._QF7RDbPZAFXQH

    This white POR15 is labeled as UV resistant.
    That's their 2K urethane top coat. You still need the POR-15 RUST PREVENTIVE COATING under the top coat. However, you do not have to use POR's top coat. Any UV resistant top coat will work.
    MK3.1 Roadster completed 2011
    818R built with EZ36R H6 completed 2018

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  35. #272
    Senior Member Goldwing's Avatar
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    Closed the ends of the trunk off, then fiberglassed each side of the panels to seal them. Looks like I’ll need to add a lip to get a good seal along the top. It sits an in inch plus low as it bolts to my bumper brackets. The extra space will be nice.
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    Also finished up the engine air intake snorkel. It bolts to the frame and uses bulb seal where the Cobb shorty intake plugs in to allow for engine movement.
    39B72E93-424B-4E0F-888B-876C9DCB2A2C.jpg
    95A052F0-E37A-4D1A-BEFD-EA7B2D3A86A1.jpg

    Finally, excited to start fitting doors to see how the windshield, doors, hood, and front quarter panels all come together. Exciting, but short lived as it tells me what needs trimmed and what can be modified to allow cabin heat lines to pass through and such so it’ll all be apart next week, lol.
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    Rich

    818S in progress. 2007 WRX sedan donor.
    Powered up: 7-8-14, First Start: 7-20-14, Go kart: 8-19-14

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