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Thread: Frank's 818R build

  1. #921
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pearldrummer7 View Post
    Garage is warm in the winter, and (more importantly, in NC) cool in the summer.
    Say that again? NC? Where has gone CO?
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  2. #922
    Senior Member Pearldrummer7's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frank818 View Post
    Say that again? NC? Where has gone CO?
    I moved from NY to NC with New Belgium ~2.5 years ago. I spend some time out at our first plant (CO) but I'm mostly down South (and more importantly, that's where my garage/house are)
    Frank - Build thread

  3. #923
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Oh! Ok I thought you fully moved to CO back then.

    Well as long as you continue painting on your wall every single track you track onto, that is really awesome! I love the idea! Those are trophies, even when you get disqualified from some of those races due to, I dunno, lack of fuel, say... loollll
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  4. #924
    Senior Member Pearldrummer7's Avatar
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    about 90% done with the re-wiring. Trimmed a lot of stuff, made things the right length (less there and back), separated them into distinct harnesses a bit better, and color coded the sections. Check out how clean my rear light harness is! Hoping to shove the harness into the car this weekend



    Frank - Build thread

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  6. #925
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    You trimmed to save weight?

    You did that lime green wire sleeve? Looks nice!
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  7. #926
    Senior Member Pearldrummer7's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frank818 View Post
    You trimmed to save weight?

    You did that lime green wire sleeve? Looks nice!
    I actually mostly trimmed it while waiting for my transmission to be fixed (it's back now), but it was kind of a mess and not color coded at all. It's a lot prettier now. This wrap SUCKS to apply but it's quite nice.


    filled this box up twice with scrap wire.

    This is what it looks like laid out. Not great but a lot nicer than before. Bunch less wires, nicer connectors, some color coding, and a lot less messy
    Frank - Build thread

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  9. #927
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    That's nice, man!
    A couple hours more and your awesome race car will look like mine (but running well).
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

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  11. #928
    Senior Member Pearldrummer7's Avatar
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    So, I put the harness in the car. It feels much more organized and protected than before! Still not as clean as an iWire harness, but I've had fun and the price is certainly right.

    I'm thinking I'm gonna put the engine compartment fuse box and the interior fuse box in the center tunnel, and build a little hatch to access them. Thinking I'll put it here and then cut out the red section of the tunnel cover to make it accessible (hinged or clipped in, perhaps?)


    Frank - Build thread

  12. #929
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Yes make sure the fuse box is accessible!! Don't do like me... loll
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  13. #930
    Senior Member Pearldrummer7's Avatar
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    I had it very inaccessible too at first. It totally sucked lol I don't know what I was thinking. Here's some before and after of the trans tunnel cover










    I'll take any tips anyone can give on making it prettier in there. Functional enough for me right now, but looks pretty meh


    I had all my switches on this little plate I made. I'm nervous to cut into the dash because I don't have the highest confidence making a hole for each of these and I worry I'll be outta luck if I ever change switches. Any dashboard thoughts?
    Frank - Build thread

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  15. #931

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    You could play around with using thin aluminum sheet (super thin stuff - hardware store flashing is cheap but a little hard to work without crinkling it) as a dash cover plate. Then if holes need to be changed later you just make a new aluminum plate. Aluminum can be painted or powder coated although it can be fussy about "stick" sometimes. Or if you are into wood grain, some veneer or wood look vinyl over aluminum or direct to the dash, again something that lets you re-do if ever needed. Done carefully even a sheet of thin lexan / polycarbonate would work.

    So possible materials to make a face plate, most of which are Home Depot, Menards, etc:
    aluminum sheet such as .03 thick
    aluminum flashing
    plastic sheet - lexan / polycarbonate
    formica / equivalent laminate
    Vinyl / Naugahyde with/without a stiffener backing like al flashing / even thin cardboard
    wood grain - veneer products
    wood grain look - automotive stick on vinyls
    hobby craft type plywood panels - some are incredibly thin - hobby stores, hobby lobby, Menards (not sure they go thin enough)

    For bonding to the dash consider some screws or rivets, otherwise glue it on. That adhesive I used in my build thread to do the vinyl to the dash holds like crazy.

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  17. #932
    Senior Member Pearldrummer7's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by aquillen View Post
    You could play around with using thin aluminum sheet (super thin stuff - hardware store flashing is cheap but a little hard to work without crinkling it) as a dash cover plate. Then if holes need to be changed later you just make a new aluminum plate. Aluminum can be painted or powder coated although it can be fussy about "stick" sometimes. Or if you are into wood grain, some veneer or wood look vinyl over aluminum or direct to the dash, again something that lets you re-do if ever needed. Done carefully even a sheet of thin lexan / polycarbonate would work.

    So possible materials to make a face plate, most of which are Home Depot, Menards, etc:
    aluminum sheet such as .03 thick
    aluminum flashing
    plastic sheet - lexan / polycarbonate
    formica / equivalent laminate
    Vinyl / Naugahyde with/without a stiffener backing like al flashing / even thin cardboard
    wood grain - veneer products
    wood grain look - automotive stick on vinyls
    hobby craft type plywood panels - some are incredibly thin - hobby stores, hobby lobby, Menards (not sure they go thin enough)

    For bonding to the dash consider some screws or rivets, otherwise glue it on. That adhesive I used in my build thread to do the vinyl to the dash holds like crazy.
    Art-- I just looked through your thread extensively. It's extremely impressive what you've done to the interior. I think I'm going to take a page (or a chapter) out of your book. Appreciate the suggestions man
    Frank - Build thread

  18. #933
    Senior Member Pearldrummer7's Avatar
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    So, while the engine is out, I figured I would (re) replace my leaking cam seal and try to figure out why that happened. I took off the timing belt following the FSM, and when I did the tensioner sprung and spun the driver's side cams. Not a lot, but the valve can interfere with both the piston and each other. So I've ordered a leakdown tester (happy to receive any advice on giving it a test). A few friends said it's unlikely that they're damaged but I am worried about it. Anyone with experience on that front?


    Good excuse to clean the engine up a bit.
    Frank - Build thread

  19. #934
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    Hey frank which radiator shroud did you go with?

  20. #935
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pearldrummer7 View Post
    So, while the engine is out, I figured I would (re) replace my leaking cam seal and try to figure out why that happened. I took off the timing belt following the FSM, and when I did the tensioner sprung and spun the driver's side cams. Not a lot, but the valve can interfere with both the piston and each other. So I've ordered a leakdown tester (happy to receive any advice on giving it a test). A few friends said it's unlikely that they're damaged but I am worried about it. Anyone with experience on that front?


    Good excuse to clean the engine up a bit.

    It's extremely unlikely the valves are damaged if you had the crank in the correct position when you took the belt off. If you think about it, what causes the cams to spin a little? It's because they are slightly under tension of the valve springs. When you take the belt off and they turn they are just being turned by the valve spring pressure, and that pressure is closing the valves, not opening them further. So they are moving away from interference, not towards it. And they only spin enough to bring all the valves to closed so the tension is gone.

    Of course it's completely different if you lose a timing belt while the engine is running.

    A leak down test is good anyways for lots of reasons, so go ahead and do it, but if you have a leakdown issue it's probably not because the valves are damaged from taking the belt off.
    "Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement"
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  22. #936
    Senior Member Pearldrummer7's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sgt.Gator View Post
    It's extremely unlikely the valves are damaged if you had the crank in the correct position when you took the belt off. If you think about it, what causes the cams to spin a little? It's because they are slightly under tension of the valve springs. When you take the belt off and they turn they are just being turned by the valve spring pressure, and that pressure is closing the valves, not opening them further. So they are moving away from interference, not towards it. And they only spin enough to bring all the valves to closed so the tension is gone.

    Of course it's completely different if you lose a timing belt while the engine is running.

    A leak down test is good anyways for lots of reasons, so go ahead and do it, but if you have a leakdown issue it's probably not because the valves are damaged from taking the belt off.
    I was not thinking about which way the valves were springing, which is of course away from the piston. I just got nervous with the bolded warning in the FSM. I'm still gonna do a leakdown test (hopefully tonight) and see how it is, but the more I read and think about it, the less likely it seems that it's damaged while not running. It'll be telling!

    I appreciate the reassurance, Gator!
    Frank - Build thread

  23. #937
    Senior Member Pearldrummer7's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Newkitguy View Post
    Hey frank which radiator shroud did you go with?
    Hey! I have no radiator shroud; just running with the mounts from Mechie3/Zero Decibel Motorsports and the stock radiator. Were you thinking of Canadian Frank with his (now blue) new-front-end 818? Can't find exactly where the shroud is but it's around or after here

    https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...-Thread/page36


    Fun fact, I have his old spare nose from when he upgraded (years ago)
    Frank - Build thread

  24. #938
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    Perhaps....my mistake

  25. #939
    Senior Member Pearldrummer7's Avatar
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    Leakdown tested the engine this weekend with a friend. I had concerns about being TDC and holding timing steady after a few little slip ups, so we did it both with the timing system in and without (valve covers off and valves closed, just held the crank) and the results [which were almost exactly the same]:

    11%-----9%
    15%----15%

    (with the bottom text being the front of the engine). Not bad; fairly consistent? Little high; heard it through the crankcase breathers and oil, but again not a huge cause for concern for me. Thinking this means I will not pull the heads. What is, however, a cause for concern:


    Why is there so much Fuji Bond (RTV, whatever) covering the engine? Gonna take a deeper look, clean everything up, replace all gaskets nearby.




    Got this sweet cam holder. It makes working on timing a lot less frustrating.
    Frank - Build thread

  26. #940
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    No way!!!! That red carpet is exactly the same my parents had until 2 months ago! Did you steal it from them? hahahahahahah

    That's a nice cam holder tool, you got 2 sides to work on and I guess it's a lot easier when the engine is out. Happy I got a VR6 for those 2 reasons, though.

    Are those the corrugated hoses you got from me?
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  27. #941
    Senior Member Pearldrummer7's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frank818 View Post
    No way!!!! That red carpet is exactly the same my parents had until 2 months ago! Did you steal it from them? hahahahahahah

    That's a nice cam holder tool, you got 2 sides to work on and I guess it's a lot easier when the engine is out. Happy I got a VR6 for those 2 reasons, though.

    Are those the corrugated hoses you got from me?
    haha they're actually from my SO's parents. Her father collects foreign rugs and gave us a ton of them. I had to pinky promise to not damage the few in the shop

    Yes they are the hoses from you; I love these things. Jealous of VR6 timing; seems easier than the Subie
    Frank - Build thread

  28. #942
    Senior Member Pearldrummer7's Avatar
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    I checked valve clearances while in here. Pretty close, but all a little loose. Intake range from 0.23mm to 0.25mm (spec is 0.20 +- 0.02), and exhaust is anywhere from 0.30 to 0.38(spec is 0.25 +- 0.02). I have the old shim over bucket style, which isn't fantastic. But since loose is conservative vs tight, I'll take a little power loss and leave well enough alone, don't y'all agree?
    Frank - Build thread

  29. #943
    Tazio Nuvolari wannabe Scargo's Avatar
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    I think I'd leave it. I don't know if more heat makes clearances close, but certainly the wear of seat and valve close up the gap. Mods can effect it.
    ON my race engine, with beehive springs and 272 high lift cams, I once set the valves on the tight side and after a year and something I burnt two valves (started seeing compression loss).

  30. #944
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pearldrummer7 View Post
    Jealous of VR6 timing; seems easier than the Subie
    I'm really happy my body parts and tubing are in good use on your car, keep things going, man.
    Speaking of cam timing, https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...l=1#post388687


    Quote Originally Posted by Pearldrummer7 View Post
    I'll take a little power loss and leave well enough alone, don't y'all agree?
    It's a race car, no power loss allowed (no out of gas as well!), make it as powerful as possible and rebuild the engine after every track day. loolll

    Sorry I can't seriously help on this one.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  31. #945
    Senior Member Pearldrummer7's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scargo View Post
    I think I'd leave it. I don't know if more heat makes clearances close, but certainly the wear of seat and valve close up the gap. Mods can effect it.
    ON my race engine, with beehive springs and 272 high lift cams, I once set the valves on the tight side and after a year and something I burnt two valves (started seeing compression loss).
    Figured, I've heard these horror stories enough times. Trying not to see the valves again for a few years.


    I started to torque the caps back to spec and it felt WAY too difficult, and the cam shafts couldn't even rotate freely at that torque. I started looking around and found a thread talking about how 14.5 ft*lbs is a misprint and is only for the rear camshalt bolts (8mm). The cap 6mm ones are 7 ft*lbs, which feels MUCH more correct. I got to thinking about it, dug out some old RTV from that mess on the engine, and found where this got the previous owner too. Explains the gobs of RTV there. Careful if you're torquing a bolt according to the FSM, there's mistakes in it!!

    Frank - Build thread

  32. #946
    Senior Member C.Plavan's Avatar
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    Make sure to change those sub strap mount points- They are very unsafe there. They need to be under the seat. Your Family Jewels with thank you if you have an accident.
    Thanks- Chad
    818R-SOLD!!!- Go Karted 7/20/14/ Officially raced NASA ST2- 2/28/15
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  33. #947
    Senior Member Pearldrummer7's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by C.Plavan View Post
    Make sure to change those sub strap mount points- They are very unsafe there. They need to be under the seat. Your Family Jewels with thank you if you have an accident.
    added to the to-do list. Thanks for the suggestion, Chad!



    Made a new switch panel, because my old one was embarrassingly bad.

    The second I sat down Vern joined me. Doesn't like being in the race car but loves to be around it.
    Frank - Build thread

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  35. #948
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Just make sure there won't be any cat fur flying around and sticking on those cams!
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  36. #949
    Senior Member Pearldrummer7's Avatar
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    a few tries later, I got the right covers in, and set out to destroy, er, repair the stuck bolts in the block. There are so many of them! Not like they're easy to tap.




    it ain't super pretty, but it's buttoned up! feels nice
    Frank - Build thread

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  38. #950
    Senior Member Pearldrummer7's Avatar
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    engine is in! wiring, plumbing, clutch tonight or tomorrow, then tranny!

    Frank - Build thread

  39. #951
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    You can save yourself some potential challenges if you remove that metal shield plate from the bottom of the engine before you try to slide the tranny in. It is much easier to take it on and off than it is to line up the tranny with it in place.

  40. #952
    Senior Member Pearldrummer7's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sgarrett View Post
    You can save yourself some potential challenges if you remove that metal shield plate from the bottom of the engine before you try to slide the tranny in. It is much easier to take it on and off than it is to line up the tranny with it in place.
    I did that, and it was much easier. Also, I didn't realize how gross that little plate was until I took it off and started cleaning....ew.



    Got a bunch of stuff in! Lot left to do (torque things, intercooler pluming, fluids, plugging tons of stuff in) but it's getting closer!
    Frank - Build thread

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  42. #953
    Senior Member Pearldrummer7's Avatar
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    So, while I have been quarantined (working from home), I've had plenty of time to be buttoning up the race car....and scope creeping! wooooo.

    Was just going to tighten up the throttle, and I broke this little plastic piece when I took it out, so I made a new one from a bolt I had that had a pretty close looking countersink angle:




    Just popped a small hole in that, and got some new cable and a new end (from Summit racing, it's a Dorman Cable End 3337, fits perfectly in the throttle!)
    Since I used a 7x7 1/16th" cable I ended up needing to drill out the cable end a bit (5/64th, just a 1/64 bigger). I also popped the same size hole in the little end I "fabricated"



    Also got rid of 2 washers per bolt that hold in the throttle bracket but shortening the bolts a touch, using the tried and true die-and-hacksaw method:
    Frank - Build thread

  43. #954
    Senior Member AZPete's Avatar
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    Good thinking!
    818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities. Sold 10/19 with 5,800 miles.
    Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).

  44. #955
    Senior Member Pearldrummer7's Avatar
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    Put the seat in to recruit my lovely SO to help me bleed brakes and clutch. Getting really close to a test-start. Sounds silly since it ran last time I started it (1.5 years ago or so) but I'm still nervous about all the changes working smoothly.

    Sat in that seat for WAY too long. I'm so excited!
    Frank - Build thread

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  46. #956

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    Sitting in the seat now and then, but not being able to drive = excellent motivator.

  47. #957
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    Quote Originally Posted by aquillen View Post
    Sitting in the seat now and then, but not being able to drive = excellent motivator.
    YES!!! I totally agree.

  48. #958
    Senior Member Pearldrummer7's Avatar
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    Got a used GTC-250 with the Gurney flaps for a few hundred bucks (thank you the internet!). My friend owns a fab shop and has a huge plasma table, so sometime we're gonna crack some beers and start designing a better rear bumper (as I lost the removable one in the move down south) and wing support. Been looking at a few of your mounts and love what you have going on.



    Needs fluids, battery hooked up (on the charger now), shifter adjustment, and a once over to make sure everything is tight, and then we'll go for a start/drive!



    ....but that got interrupted by moving our entire ~750 sq ft garage into the shop so we can paint the walls. Yes, I have too many motorcycles.




    Also, we got a kitten! Had a foster that we thought was forever, and the original owner came back for it. New kitten loves the shop, so expect shop cat pics soon.
    Frank - Build thread

  49. #959
    Senior Member Hobby Racer's Avatar
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    Oh man, that's a smoking deal on that wing. I have the same one, but paid full price
    MK3.1 Roadster completed 2011
    818R built with EZ36R H6 completed 2018
    818R rebuild with a JDM Honda K24A

  50. #960
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    QC, Canada
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    5,732
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    Your garage is really cool, is that the one with wall drawings of every race tracks you raced on?

    And do you have more pix of that black and red bike?
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

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