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Thread: Frank's 818R build

  1. #41
    Senior Member Pearldrummer7's Avatar
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    Whew, last few weeks have been pretty busy! Lots of little work whenever I can get the time. I started to work on de-powering the steering last night:





    Went pretty quick so far. I'm just going to weld the threaded ends once I get to that point, I think. And I will be removing that slop (to the best of my ability), I suppose having someone TIG it would be the best way. I don't have any welder of my own at this time.
    Last edited by Pearldrummer7; 06-17-2014 at 06:27 AM.

  2. #42
    Senior Member Pearldrummer7's Avatar
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    More steering work! I tried drilling into that valve-body-thing...whew, that stuff is hard! Grabbed an angle grinder and knicked a piece of it off, then got a friend at work to tig it up for me. It certainly doesn't move now!




  3. #43
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Any reason why you decided to keep the triple-cork-layer valve piece? I found out the shaft was staying in place very solid without it so I ditched it. But I also have seen that there are many little differences in the racks depending on the year-model we got, so maybe for you it was better to keep it?

    Ok I found the answer after you posted on De-Powering the rack thread.
    Last edited by Frank818; 06-19-2014 at 08:14 PM.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  4. #44
    Senior Member Pearldrummer7's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frank818 View Post
    Any reason why you decided to keep the triple-cork-layer valve piece? I found out the shaft was staying in place very solid without it so I ditched it. But I also have seen that there are many little differences in the racks depending on the year-model we got, so maybe for you it was better to keep it?

    Ok I found the answer after you posted on De-Powering the rack thread.
    Frank,

    Yup, I posted it there. I think it'll help support the shaft inside of the steel housing. I'm not sure about that, of course. But, it was easy enough to keep. How does yours fit?

  5. #45
    Senior Member Pearldrummer7's Avatar
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    Woohoo! Joe Scott and I confirmed my pick up date. How did you guys last the final 2 weeks?!? I'm already so excited/anxious!

  6. #46
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    I had stomach issues in the last week to 2 weeks. Which lasted until I crossed the Canadian border on my way back. Then I shouted at the Canadian border and Transport Canada cuz I succeeded through my first huge step and I was so happy. loll Good thing none of them heard me, it wasn't pretty. lolll

    I test fitted the shaft with and without that valve and didn't see any difference. The thing is, it was just by hand, not on the car and driving it, so I don't know if under load (steering load that is, not engine) it will be ok. Others have trashed that valve too so that's why I decided to do it as well. On the long rod though, some have remove everything but the end cap. Mine looked a little different than most of the pix I've seen here, still I tried to remove all but there was a bigger piece I had to keep on one end of the rod, otherwise the rod was moving up and down and that was bad.

    Back to the shaft, mine is maintained solidly in place by the bottom bearing and the very bottom tip of the shaft, the portion that goes in the hole inside the rack itself and maintained a little by the upper rubber (but that's just a rubber). I hope I am not wrong, I still have the valve, so if I have problems, a couple of days work to remove the rack and put back the valve would be ok, though not very funny.

    I don't think the valve is harming anything anyway and it's not like you are adding 100kg to the car for so little benefits, so I say you did good.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  7. #47
    Senior Member Pearldrummer7's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frank818 View Post
    I had stomach issues in the last week to 2 weeks. Which lasted until I crossed the Canadian border on my way back. Then I shouted at the Canadian border and Transport Canada cuz I succeeded through my first huge step and I was so happy. loll Good thing none of them heard me, it wasn't pretty. lolll
    haha! They would have been so confused. That's great

    I test fitted the shaft with and without that valve and didn't see any difference. The thing is, it was just by hand, not on the car and driving it, so I don't know if under load (steering load that is, not engine) it will be ok. Others have trashed that valve too so that's why I decided to do it as well. On the long rod though, some have remove everything but the end cap. Mine looked a little different than most of the pix I've seen here, still I tried to remove all but there was a bigger piece I had to keep on one end of the rod, otherwise the rod was moving up and down and that was bad.
    I did the same and didn't notice a difference. But, like you said, it's just a little weight and I'm not too worried about it. It will probably be fine either way.
    Which rod are you talking about? The one with splines for the steering joint before the column?


    Back to the shaft, mine is maintained solidly in place by the bottom bearing and the very bottom tip of the shaft, the portion that goes in the hole inside the rack itself and maintained a little by the upper rubber (but that's just a rubber). I hope I am not wrong, I still have the valve, so if I have problems, a couple of days work to remove the rack and put back the valve would be ok, though not very funny.
    It wouldn't be all too much work. What year is your rack from? I think ours looked very similar, unlike all those "newer rack" guys (mine is from an 02)

    I don't think the valve is harming anything anyway and it's not like you are adding 100kg to the car for so little benefits, so I say you did good.
    Replies in red!

  8. #48
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Yes, the rod with splines, that beautiful smooth mirror-finish rod.

    I have a 03 rack from an auto NA 2.5TS. 02 and 03 are supposed to be identical as far as I have read, but if I recall some 02 pix I have seen here, mine wasn't 100% identical on the rod stuff. But for the small shaft with valve, it looks exactly the same.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  9. #49
    Senior Member Pearldrummer7's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frank818 View Post
    Yes, the rod with splines, that beautiful smooth mirror-finish rod.

    I have a 03 rack from an auto NA 2.5TS. 02 and 03 are supposed to be identical as far as I have read, but if I recall some 02 pix I have seen here, mine wasn't 100% identical on the rod stuff. But for the small shaft with valve, it looks exactly the same.
    LOL mirror-finish. Not in NY!

    Ah, gotcha. similar to mine for sure.



    My big issue now is replacing the tie-rod boot. How the hell do you get that thing off without cutting it?? Mine is so unbelievably rusted.

  10. #50
    Senior Member Pearldrummer7's Avatar
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    Carnage! Liberated my steering rack of that power steering piston/seal/thing. Also cleaned it up a bit. Definitely a lot of little stuff to button up (and a trans to rebuild....oh man) in the next two weeks.


  11. #51
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pearldrummer7 View Post
    How the hell do you get that thing off without cutting it?? Mine is so unbelievably rusted.
    The boot is rusted? Do you have a pic of that?
    Normally you cut the rings that tie it in place and it slides off the tie-rod. I can't recall I got mines of cuz I changed the boots and tie-rods. So I didn't mind much of breaking them apart.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  12. #52
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pearldrummer7 View Post
    Carnage! Liberated my steering rack of that power steering piston/seal/thing. Also cleaned it up a bit. Definitely a lot of little stuff to button up (and a trans to rebuild....oh man) in the next two weeks.

    Yeah that looks pretty much like mine. Keep that c clip on the rod, you need it to prevent the piston from going to far away. You do have a piston that was lying just besides that big ring you cut off?
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  13. #53
    Senior Member Pearldrummer7's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frank818 View Post
    The boot is rusted? Do you have a pic of that?
    Normally you cut the rings that tie it in place and it slides off the tie-rod. I can't recall I got mines of cuz I changed the boots and tie-rods. So I didn't mind much of breaking them apart.
    The tie-rod is rusted at the threads. Boot is torn in half so I'll need a new one. I'll add a pic tonight. What tie rods did you go to?

    Quote Originally Posted by Frank818 View Post
    Yeah that looks pretty much like mine. Keep that c clip on the rod, you need it to prevent the piston from going to far away. You do have a piston that was lying just besides that big ring you cut off?
    I'm not removing the c-clip from the rod. I am glad you're a few weeks ahead of me to work out these problems, Frank. I have a piston with a beveled section and a little black gasket on it. It slid around on the shaft pretty freely. I keep that, right?



    Edit:
    I reassembled part of the rack. Kept the little piston and the c-clip. It stops nicely at the end of the rack threads, and I think it's going to work nicely now. Here's the pic of the tie-rod that I can't get loose. I can't think of another way to get a new boot on there without breaking this thread loose:

    Last edited by Pearldrummer7; 06-24-2014 at 07:30 AM.

  14. #54
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    I got the CTR tie-rods, powder coated black already (not the tie-rod end though). Just OEM-like replacement.

    Yes that piston moves freely on one end, hits the end cap and C-clip. Without it, the rack rod will wobble on that end and that's very bad. I put a lot of grease to make it slide better and more freely, but most of the grease is pushed on the sides cuz the piston fits like a piston ring in a cylinder, it's very tight.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  15. #55
    Senior Member Pearldrummer7's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frank818 View Post
    I got the CTR tie-rods, powder coated black already (not the tie-rod end though). Just OEM-like replacement.

    Yes that piston moves freely on one end, hits the end cap and C-clip. Without it, the rack rod will wobble on that end and that's very bad. I put a lot of grease to make it slide better and more freely, but most of the grease is pushed on the sides cuz the piston fits like a piston ring in a cylinder, it's very tight.
    Ah, maybe I'll just get some replacement ones then. Might be worth it at this point.


    Yup. I noticed that. With the piston in and end caps it moves pretty nicely and stops when it should. I just loaded it up with regular old automotive grease. Is that what you did too? I hope it has enough lube!

    Edit: Ah, hell. They're only ~$35 a pop for replacements. I think that's what I'll do then. Thanks for the advice, Frank! A lifesaver per usual
    Last edited by Pearldrummer7; 06-24-2014 at 09:34 AM.

  16. #56
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    I use sort of automotive grease, yeah, lithium based that work on motorcycles, cars, etc. Anything mechanical like rods, bearings, gears...

    http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com...erproof-grease

    $35 is about the price, I can't recall if that is with or without the tie-rod end (with ball joint), I think it's without... If I remember, it cost me about $CAD200, but I replaced everything, the boots (20 each or so), tie-rods, tie-rod ends, ball joints, crush washers.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  17. #57
    Senior Member Pearldrummer7's Avatar
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    GOT IT!

    Before:


    After electrolysis:



    Frank: 1, Rust: ~400
    I'll take any win I can get over rust at this point.



    Also found an unused pegboard in our basement. Awesome!

  18. #58
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    That rust removal certainly did work as hell! lolll You could save yourself some bucks by simply cleaning up the rods and painting/coating them. Don't forgot to remove the grease and put on some new.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  19. #59
    Senior Member Pearldrummer7's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frank818 View Post
    That rust removal certainly did work as hell! lolll You could save yourself some bucks by simply cleaning up the rods and painting/coating them. Don't forgot to remove the grease and put on some new.
    Some new what? haha

  20. #60
    Senior Member Pearldrummer7's Avatar
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    Here it is at FFR! Can't wait to grab it this Saturday!



    And here's what I worked on this weekend, along with another 5MT (man I'm getting good at splitting them apart), steering, and some random parts preparation.


    I'm the one under the car, actually doing work. Just kidding. We did a lot on both bugeyes this weekend, and everyone was a big help. Good way to distract myself to help time pass till Saturday....it's like waiting for Christmas as a little kid!

  21. #61
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Have a nice trip!
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  22. #62
    Member projectrally's Avatar
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    [QUOTE=Pearldrummer7;159889]Here it is at FFR! Can't wait to grab it this Saturday!



    Ha! I was down at FFR this week working on a new video (I'm the guy who made FFR's current promo DVD), and we filmed with your chassis a little bit. It looks great. You must be jumping out of your skin with excitement. I know I will be when I pick up mine!

  23. #63
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by projectrally View Post
    and we filmed with your chassis a little bit.
    Well there you go Frank, you're now even most famous than you were!
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  24. #64
    Senior Member Pearldrummer7's Avatar
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    [QUOTE=projectrally;160354]
    Quote Originally Posted by Pearldrummer7 View Post
    Here it is at FFR! Can't wait to grab it this Saturday!



    Ha! I was down at FFR this week working on a new video (I'm the guy who made FFR's current promo DVD), and we filmed with your chassis a little bit. It looks great. You must be jumping out of your skin with excitement. I know I will be when I pick up mine!
    Quote Originally Posted by Frank818 View Post
    Well there you go Frank, you're now even most famous than you were!
    *blushes* I'm so flattered! That's awesome! Can't wait to see what you end up making for a video.

    I am VERY excited still. The haul was long. Took 4.5 hours from my parents' house to Wareham, then ~7 to my new house from Wareham. Lots of stops to check on and fix up the kit. But WOW, what a facility. It's been said before, but that place is absolutely breathtaking. Factory Five is an incredible facility; nearly clean enough to eat off of the floor. Met Dave, the president, who is an awesome guy. FFR even gave us free shirts (just ask when you pick your kits up!) Toured the place, then loaded up!


    The diesel barely noticed the car's weight on the back. Did 75+ mph most of the way home.


    Got it back, did some fiberglass organization, had a bunch of people over to see the kit, and promptly passed out on my couch- like the great host I am.


    Yesterday, did the front firewall and hung up my inventory sheets in an attempt to start taking inventory. Man, there's a lot to do. More pics to come! I've been taking time-lapse photos with the GoPro. This week's goal- front suspension and inventory.

  25. #65
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    Congrats, my kit should be ready for pick up in 4 weeks.
    Get yourself some EvapoRust works great, just finished my front and rear uprights, after a overnight soak and pressure wash they looked new.

  26. #66
    Senior Member Pearldrummer7's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mitch Wright View Post
    Congrats, my kit should be ready for pick up in 4 weeks.
    Get yourself some EvapoRust works great, just finished my front and rear uprights, after a overnight soak and pressure wash they looked new.
    I actually have parts in the electrolysis bucket de rusting right now. Seems to be working for me so far. Thanks!! Get ready, pick up is a big day! Are you far?

  27. #67
    Member projectrally's Avatar
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    Are you building this R with or without a full windshield?

  28. #68
    Senior Member Pearldrummer7's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by projectrally View Post
    Are you building this R with or without a full windshield?
    I will run the street windshield on the street and the R windscreen on tracks. At least, that's the plan.

  29. #69
    Senior Member Pearldrummer7's Avatar
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    So, no power at home. Doing work by day light and flashlights.

    Anyone ever have an issue with pedal fitment? Mine are a good 3/16's off. The pedals either line up with column on top or the supplied OEM pedal brace. Never both. Clutch pedal hits firewall too. Something is way out of whack.

  30. #70
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    You mean the pedals are off so you don't feel comfortable when your feet are on them?

    If I recall, my clutch can hit the firewall, but I doubt it needs to go that far to allow shifting (then I can put a stopper or something), so for now I am not worried.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  31. #71
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    I am in Bowling Green KY, still debating weather I will make the trip to pick it up or have it delivered, I need to decide pretty quick.. We are in getting ready to open a new Motorsports Park (NCM Motorsports Park) in September so time is at a premium. I have the car ordered for over a year so I am excited and ready.
    My R will be track only.

  32. #72
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mitch Wright View Post
    I am in Bowling Green KY, still debating weather I will make the trip to pick it up or have it delivered, I need to decide pretty quick.. We are in getting ready to open a new Motorsports Park (NCM Motorsports Park) in September so time is at a premium. I have the car ordered for over a year so I am excited and ready.
    My R will be track only.
    Hi Mitch,
    I suggest you pick it up yourself.
    Not only do you get to see the place. More importantly, you get to meet the people.
    I have a trailer in Cincinnati you are welcome to barrow.

    My son and I are signed up to do a track day with ten-tenths on 0ctober 10-12
    http://www.1010thsmotorsports.com/ncm-reg_1.html


    loading.jpg

  33. #73
    Senior Member Pearldrummer7's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frank818 View Post
    You mean the pedals are off so you don't feel comfortable when your feet are on them?

    If I recall, my clutch can hit the firewall, but I doubt it needs to go that far to allow shifting (then I can put a stopper or something), so for now I am not worried.
    The pedal mount itself wasn't lining up. I had to do some...modifying. Pics of what I did tonight, nothing fancy.

    Clutch does hit the firewall but just barely, but it shouldn't be an issue, like you said.

  34. #74
    Senior Member Pearldrummer7's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mitch Wright View Post
    I am in Bowling Green KY, still debating weather I will make the trip to pick it up or have it delivered, I need to decide pretty quick.. We are in getting ready to open a new Motorsports Park (NCM Motorsports Park) in September so time is at a premium. I have the car ordered for over a year so I am excited and ready.
    My R will be track only.
    Quote Originally Posted by Bob_n_Cincy View Post
    Hi Mitch,
    I suggest you pick it up yourself.
    Not only do you get to see the place. More importantly, you get to meet the people.
    I have a trailer in Cincinnati you are welcome to barrow.

    My son and I are signed up to do a track day with ten-tenths on 0ctober 10-12
    http://www.1010thsmotorsports.com/ncm-reg_1.html


    loading.jpg
    Mitch, my vote is also on pick up. It's an amazing experience. Frank will tell you the same thing; totally worth the drive. Just make sure to bring lots of ways to secure things if you use an open trailer and open truck bed. The fiberglass is super fragile and definitely can't hold up to much stress from wind.

  35. #75
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob_n_Cincy View Post
    I suggest you pick it up yourself.
    Not only do you get to see the place. More importantly, you get to meet the people.
    This is worth money. Even if you end up paying the pick-up trip a little more than Stewart delivering to you, I very very highly recommend picking it up and seeing the place/people.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  36. #76
    Member projectrally's Avatar
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    I also vote for the self pick-up. They're always happy to give a tour and show you their other cars. Everyone there is very approachable and friendly. It's an amazing facility filled with great people, and it'll make your building experience more enjoyable if it starts there.

  37. #77
    Senior Member Pearldrummer7's Avatar
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    Big update! a week or so into ownership, and here's where we are! (along with a tip and a question)

    Floor is installed; when you're putting in any aluminum, remember- the stencil (dots of ink) go on the non-prime side. i.e. the side with worse quality control. Take that into consideration when you can see some of the aluminum paneling (such as the floor). I asked FFR and the little tab goes towards the front of the car to cover two holes they use to move the frame around during production. Also, I clamped the floor to the frame and traced the edges. Then I measured the distance to the rear of the car in a few easily-perpendicular places, removed the paneling and flipped it, then clamped it once it was re-measured. Made for easy work (though I'm sure many of you figured out this or better solutions already!) :



    Pedals, steering column, and steering rack are all mounted up. Just waiting for a rack boot from Subaru to get here (shipping got delayed...supposed to be here before the weekend). Pic is clearly pre-steering install.



    Prepping the fuel pump(Walbro 255) on the FFR supplied bracketry.





    Here comes the question. Did anyone else have a tough time installing the fuel pump assembly into the tank? It felt like a very tight fit. I finally moved it around from the "correct" position in the manual to one about 90* clockwise(looking down) and it ended up fitting much nicer. Here's what it looks like through the fuel vapor hole in the tank (sorry for bad quality). Is this okay?? It's (fairly lightly) resting the bottom part of the little filter on the base of the fuel tank. The pump itself is not hitting.

  38. #78
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Frank
    The plastic grid on the bottom of the filter sock is designed to lay flat on the bottom of the tank.
    I don't know if this is possible with the ffr tank.
    Bobgrid.jpg
    Last edited by Bob_n_Cincy; 07-13-2014 at 10:44 PM.

  39. #79
    Senior Member Pearldrummer7's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob_n_Cincy View Post
    Frank
    The plastic grid on the bottom of the filter sock is designed to lay flat on the bottom of the tank.
    I don't know if this is possible with the ffr tank.
    Bobgrid.jpg
    Oh cool. My Walbro pump has an aftermarket filter on it I believe (no plastic). It's close to laying flat; hopefully close enough! Thanks Bob!

  40. #80
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Wow the floor is on already. Moving fast! Will you have issues fitting the seat mounts if the floor is fixed? I think some others sweat for a while just cuz the floor was limiting access.

    About fuel, I may change my forecast setup and thought of a Walbro. You are replacing the in-tank OEM pump with the Walbro and that's it? Walbro will fit in-tank? Basically, it's a straight swap, no special brackets or mods required?
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

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