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Thread: NoVa 818 Build

  1. #41
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by STiPWRD View Post
    1. Will an 02 wrx fuel sender work with the Boyd tank? I'll have to research the Boyd tank thread but wanted to see if I could get a quick answer. I know they offer a 90 ohm sender for $48 and that the wrx sender is more like 16-158 ohms. Is is possible to fix the Boyd sender with a few resistors?
    Just measured my Subaru sending unit.
    52 ohms empty and 2 ohms full. There are 2 sending units in series on the Subaru tank, so 104 ohms empty to 4 ohms full.
    I have a 12" tall tank that I am filling with safety foam, so I can't use the Subaru or Boyd (float on arm) type sending unit.
    I am using a VDO unit #224-229 which is 90 empty and 0 ohms full. This will read pretty close, but I can add a 10 ohm resistor to make empty read perfect.
    Bob
    vdo.jpg

  2. #42
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    Thanks Bob, I guess I'll grab the Boyd sender along with the tank and rig up some resistors to get the correct empty level.

  3. #43
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    Does anyone have an extra set of rear outer CV joints from an sti? After assembling my FFR axles with my old wrx CV joints and trying to insert them into my sti rear spindles, I quickly realized the wrx CV shafts were too small and wouldn't fit, major bummer

    It seems the wrx rear outer joints are 24 splines (0.970 diameter) and the sti wheel hubs are 27 splines (1.087 diameter). Also, does anyone know if the FFR axles will work with sti outer CV joints? I guess I'll find out eventually but I'm hoping they'll slide in, otherwise I'd hate to have custom axles shafts made.

  4. #44
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    I cant seem to find if you are going for a 5 or 6 speed along with your 5x114.3 knuckles.

    I trust it as much as anything on the internet (needs verification), but I have read that the male stub axles from a 5mt plug into a 6mt. This makes me hopeful that an STI front inner CV can be used with a 5mt, which matches the STI axle shaft and outer CV. Its not a solution but it does give more puzzle pieces to play with.

    I can see all this trial and error getting expensive quickly.

  5. #45
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Boog View Post
    I cant seem to find if you are going for a 5 or 6 speed along with your 5x114.3 knuckles.

    I trust it as much as anything on the internet (needs verification), but I have read that the male stub axles from a 5mt plug into a 6mt. This makes me hopeful that an STI front inner CV can be used with a 5mt, which matches the STI axle shaft and outer CV. Its not a solution but it does give more puzzle pieces to play with.

    I can see all this trial and error getting expensive quickly.
    I'm running an 02 wrx 5 speed trans with male stubs and the knuckles are 02 JDM STI so they are actually 5x100. I'm calling a few local shops to see if they have sti rear outer cv jounts but I too am worried about this getting expensive - that's what I get for trying to run brembos :/

  6. #46
    Mechie3's Avatar
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    I think you can run brembos on 06WRX knuckles. On the rear, I'm not sure if you need the full knuckle or if you just need the appropriate backing plate. I never fully looked into this so might be confusing two things, but it's worth taking a look.
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  7. #47
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    I looked through Sponaugle's build thread since it looks like he is running the same setup and judging from the picture of the sti front and rear axles, it looks like they use a different spline count and will not work with the front inner wrx joints that attach to the 5 speed mt.

    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...l=1#post158780

    It seems I might end up getting one of these rear brembo adapter kits and try to sell my freshly rebuilt rear sti spindles and rotors. Oh well 2 steps forward, 1 step back.
    http://www.fastwrx.com/products/rear...-kit-02-05-wrx

  8. #48
    Senior Member Brando's Avatar
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    And quite the bargain at $600

  9. #49
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brando View Post
    And quite the bargain at $600
    Yea, my head hurts today. But the alternative would be to buy sti rear axles, which aren't cheap either and they try to figure out how to connect them to my 5 speed trans. I've done some searching and haven't found inner cv joints that will work with sti axles and wrx trans stubs. Or I'd have to replace my diff to accept sti rear inner stubs, which I don't even know if such a thing exists. I just hope I can re-coupe some of the cost by selling those spindles. There's just no easy (or cheap) way out... sigh

  10. #50
    Senior Member Brando's Avatar
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    I tried doing exactly what you are doing with STI hubs. I ended up throwing in the towel and just going with the 5 x 100's. I didn't realize that the 2002 WRX STI was a 5x100, maybe there is something there to work with.
    Buying used WRX knuckles would probably be the cheapest way out wouldn't it?

  11. #51
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brando View Post
    I tried doing exactly what you are doing with STI hubs. I ended up throwing in the towel and just going with the 5 x 100's. I didn't realize that the 2002 WRX STI was a 5x100, maybe there is something there to work with.
    Buying used WRX knuckles would probably be the cheapest way out wouldn't it?
    Yep, I still have my passenger side rear spindle from my 02 wrx donor but I sold the rear driver spindle, so now I have to find a replacement. I'll probably end up rebuilding these wrx rear spindle with new bearings and paint, more fun! That rear caliper bracket is $200 and the special rotors are $377 ($577 total). Mach V Motorsports right down the street from me sells these adapter kits. By the way, I love your race videos on youtube.

  12. #52
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    Well, thought I'd clear the dust from my build thread and post a few progress pics.

    Lately I've been trying to get the motor together which has involved a whole lot of research and buying a few specialty tools such as a micrometer for measuring piston diameter, digital cylinder bore gauge, piston ring file, 2' straight edge tool for checking flatness, and a piston ring compressor (the HF one worked fine). I started with a stock EJ257 short block and replaced the cast pistons with forged JE pistons (291059) meant for the 2.0 wrx heads I'll be running - these bring the compression ration back to 8.5:1. The most time consuming part of building the short block was measuring the piston to bore clearances and filing the rings. Every ring needed filing and the Proform 66785 ring file tool worked well. Be sure to sand down the rough edges every time the ring is filed. It also takes some finesse to get the stock pistons out and the new pistons in without scraping the cylinder wall with the rod, but it can be done by holding the rod through the wrist pin hole. I used a 1/4" rod with some tape on the end for cushion to knock out the wrist pins from the opposite side of the block. Youtube, as always, was a huge help.
    IMAG0863.jpg
    Installed ARP Head studs
    IMAG0885.jpg
    Went with the stock subaru head gaskets
    IMAG0892.jpg
    Re-decked 2.0 cylinder heads with Ferrea valves
    IMAG0894.jpg
    New Crower 264 cams and springs/retainers underneath
    IMAG0896.jpg
    Head installed on the short block with sti shimless buckets
    IMAG0899.jpg
    Thanks for the tip Andrew and Tamra on those two smaller cam bearing bolts, I could've easily over torqued those.

  13. #53
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    Rear brakes
    IMAG0901.jpg
    Brake line routing
    IMAG0903.jpgIMAG0904.jpgIMAG0905.jpg
    The remote reservoir mod from Mike Everson worked great, I also picked up his clutch line and coolant hard lines.
    Front brakes
    IMAG0906.jpg
    Long block finally assembled with the powder coated valve covers
    IMAG0908.jpg

    I would highly recommend going with the copper nickel brake lines, metric fittings, and using the eastwood brake flaring tool (Thanks metros for letting me borrow yours!). The copper nickel bends way easier, looks better, and you can get rid of all those adapters. Be sure to get more than 25' - this will only be enough to do the brakes but not the clutch line. I ended up not having to use any adapters or couplers in the brake lines.

  14. #54
    Senior Member Tamra's Avatar
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    Everything looks really really tidy and clean! Nice job!

    On your remote reservoir, I believe where you currently have it mounted will be in direct interference with the windshield surround. In this thread here, AZPete looks like he shifted his forward so he would only have to cut a portion of the surround. Although, now that I'm looking more closely, it looks like that might be temporary for you (is that a ziptie I see?), If so, please disregard


    Edit: and you're welcome on the cam bolts! So glad we spared you that terrifying headache of a broken bolt in a freshly machined head. -shudder-
    Last edited by Tamra; 12-29-2014 at 02:02 PM.
    Tamra
    Building 818SR #297 picked up 10/25/14 with Andrew (xxguitarist)
    First start 12/21/14, First "drive" 1/17/15
    First Dyno at EFI Logics 3/7/15- 310whp at 15psi for break in, full spool by ~3500rpm!
    First autocross 3/29/15
    1st Registered 818 in Connecticut 7/24/2015. 9 months - 1 day from kit pickup!

  15. #55
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tamra View Post
    Everything looks really really tidy and clean! Nice job!

    On your remote reservoir, I believe where you currently have it mounted will be in direct interference with the windshield surround. In this thread here, AZPete looks like he shifted his forward so he would only have to cut a portion of the surround. Although, now that I'm looking more closely, it looks like that might be temporary for you (is that a ziptie I see?), If so, please disregard


    Edit: and you're welcome on the cam bolts! So glad we spared you that terrifying headache of a broken bolt in a freshly machined head. -shudder-
    Yes, the remote reservoir is temporarily attached with a zip tie and I'll most likely mount it somewhere to the frame above the battery to make room for the wipers.

    Speaking of stripped bolts, I did manage to strip one of those philips countersunk screws on the back of the block that holds the left wrist pin cover so I did have to drill that out but luckily everything went well and I got a fresh one from subaru. I had to pick up one of those impact screw drivers for $6 from HF which worked really well for the other screw. I'm gonna use this tool from now on.
    http://www.harborfreight.com/impact-...ase-37530.html

  16. #56
    Moonlight Performance
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    Nice progress! Had to do a double take when this popped up.... been so long! Glad you are making steady progress.

  17. #57
    Senior Member AZPete's Avatar
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    Nice neat brake lines. On the left front you may want to move the two lines that go down and through the opening to the outside. There is an aluminum splash panel that goes at the inside/rear of the front wheel so it's best to have those two lines enter the opening from the inside, near the lower control arm mount.

    818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities. Sold 10/19 with 5,800 miles.
    Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).

  18. #58
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AZPete View Post
    Nice neat brake lines. On the left front you may want to move the two lines that go down and through the opening to the outside. There is an aluminum splash panel that goes at the inside/rear of the front wheel so it's best to have those two lines enter the opening from the inside, near the lower control arm mount.
    Pete, thanks for the tip but I was planning on just cutting some holes in that aluminum panel to clear the brake lines. I thought about routing them more inside but wanted the lines to hug the firewall as much as possible to avoid vibration. I might re-route them later on, we'll see.

  19. #59
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hindsight View Post
    Nice progress! Had to do a double take when this popped up.... been so long! Glad you are making steady progress.
    Thanks, I saw your post in another thread about the upper coolant line and just using the existing nipple instead of tapping a hole for a barbed fitting and I think I'll use that approach as well. That existing nipple is at nearly the same elevation and I didn't see any obstructions to the air getting out to the de-gas tank.

  20. #60
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    I like the rear rotors but I was surprised to see the front ones are plain. Any reason to be different than the rears?
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  21. #61
    Senior Member metros's Avatar
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    Congrats on getting the engine mostly together! That's another big step forward in the build.

  22. #62
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frank818 View Post
    I like the rear rotors but I was surprised to see the front ones are plain. Any reason to be different than the rears?
    Mostly cost, the fronts are $35 (ea) centric blanks and the rear are special $350 (both) DBA rotors that have the sti rear diameter but fit on wrx rear spindles and e-brake. If I could've put cheaper rotors on the rear, I probably would have. I might upgrade the front rotors later but there have been so many recent part purchases (and more to come), I'm just trying to manage cost. Project creep... it's real In fact, I've got my eyes on a Quaife LSD $$$ ouch.

    Quote Originally Posted by metros View Post
    Congrats on getting the engine mostly together! That's another big step forward in the build.
    Thanks man, I just want to put the engine in the 818 and start it up but I'm a long ways out. Just enjoying the build process and taking my time. Next things on the list are finishing the engine, rear firewall, and diet the harness. How's your build going?

  23. #63
    Senior Member metros's Avatar
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    I've got my eye on the same Quaife LSD. It's the one part of my build that I'm not really satisfied with as it currently is. The thought of pulling the trans back out of the car now is not very appealing though.

    My build got sidelined today as I had a hernia repaired. I did leave several little jobs that can be done standing straight up so that as I feel a little better I can continue working on it. My seats should be arriving in the next couple weeks. I decided for my 2nd try I'd go with Bimarco Futura seats.

  24. #64
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by metros View Post
    My build got sidelined today as I had a hernia repaired. I did leave several little jobs that can be done standing straight up so that as I feel a little better I can continue working on it. My seats should be arriving in the next couple weeks. I decided for my 2nd try I'd go with Bimarco Futura seats.
    Hope get well soon and enjoy the time with the family. Those seats look cool and light weight, should be a nice touch.

  25. #65
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    The weather has been cold lately so I headed into the basement and decided to tackled the wiring. Over the past 2 weeks I've spent about 30 hours on it and am at a point where most of the trimming is done and the harness is ready to be test fit into the car. I found Larry's (K3LAG) guide very helpful in terms of figuring out where to start, I'm sure it saved me a lot of frustration and I'm also sure I'll do more tweaking to the wiring later on. All of the cut-away wiring, connectors, and harness wrap came out to 20 lbs.

    Before:
    IMAG0992.jpg

    After:
    IMAG1012.jpg

    What was cut away:
    IMAG1014.jpg

  26. #66
    K3LAG's Avatar
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    Nice job. I really should write Part 4 of my process one of these days.

    Larry

  27. #67
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by K3LAG View Post
    Nice job. I really should write Part 4 of my process one of these days.

    Larry
    Thanks Larry, I just hope the car starts I'd be interested in checking out your 818 sometime this spring when the weather gets warmer, maybe go for a ride?

    One other tip about the wiring - it really does help to label all of the connectors first, especially around the bulkhead area. I found myself eager to start cutting wires and it does help to identify connectors when other ones are near by for reference.

  28. #68
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    I had the day off yesterday due to snow so I spent it tearing down my turbo. It turns out what I thought (and what the seller claimed) was a blouch 2.5R is actually a TD05H 18G.
    IMAG1030.jpgIMAG1034.jpgIMAG1057.jpg
    I bought this turbo back in 2008 but it had been sitting in a box since then. Not only that but turns out it had some shaft play (hence the rebuild). At least taking it apart allowed me to measure things and figure out that the mystery turbo was indeed an 18G. Also, the $40 rebuild kit is much cheaper than buying a new turbo.

    Any recommendations for places that do turbo balancing? I called blouch but they seem to be closed for the day.

    Also, the new engine is pretty much complete so I'll be installing that soon.
    IMAG1036.jpgIMAG1037.jpg

    My old 2.0 short block and heads are posted on craigslist
    IMAG1038.jpg

  29. #69

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    Man that is a pretty engine. Good work. There is definitely a sense of satisfaction installing clean, refreshed bits on the 818. I dont enjoy doing things twice.

  30. #70
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kurk818 View Post
    Man that is a pretty engine. Good work. There is definitely a sense of satisfaction installing clean, refreshed bits on the 818. I dont enjoy doing things twice.
    Thanks man, I know how you feel. I spent a lot of time on the intake manifold shaving off the casting imperfections and some of the tabs and then had it, the TGVs, and valve covers powder coated. Also, pretty much every bolt has been soaked in evaporust.

  31. #71
    Senior Member metros's Avatar
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    Looking good!

    BTW, is that the correct spot for the Michael Everson alternator turn buckle? I have mine oriented in a more vertical orientation.
    Last edited by metros; 03-06-2015 at 07:32 PM.

  32. #72
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by metros View Post
    Looking good!

    BTW, is that the correct spot for the Michael Everson alternator turn buckle? I have mine oriented in a more vertical orientation.
    You're right, looks like it should be more vertical. Seems to work both ways, I'll probably fix it later though. Thanks

  33. #73
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    I got the motor in the car a few weeks ago and have been working on plumbing all the lines. Here are some pics.
    IMAG1095.jpg
    IMAG1097.jpg
    IMAG1100.jpg
    IMAG1105.jpg
    IMAG1106.jpg
    IMAG1109.jpg

  34. #74
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    I used this throw-out bearing sleeve kit:
    IMAG1110.jpg
    IMAG1111.jpg

    Trans mounted
    IMAG1114.jpg

    18G vs old TD04
    IMAG1120.jpgIMAG1121.jpg

    Tim Scott Turbo's and Fab rebuilt and balanced my turbo, I'd definitely recommend the guy
    IMAG1077.jpg

  35. #75
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    I also bought my AWIC through Craig along with a few other Zero dB parts (rear AWIC bracket, rear fender brace, top radiator mounts, heat exchanger mounts, and turbo heat shield). Craig was a pleasure to work with and I'm sure I'll be coming back for the louvers later on when I do the body. I did have to the massage the bottom of the rear AWIC bracket to fit on my trans, I'm not sure if this is dependent on the model year but the bottom of the bracket measured 4.045 and the trans mounting point was 4.110 so I had to stretch the bottom of the bracket a bit. It worked out in the end and I think looks great.
    IMAG1189.jpg
    IMAG1190.jpg
    IMAG1191.jpg
    IMAG1192.jpg
    IMAG1193.jpg
    IMAG1195.jpg

    I'm hoping to get this thing running before I have my first child in July but at this rate who knows. Either way, just enjoying the ride!

  36. #76

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    That is looking clean.

    Great headway. Keep it up!

  37. #77
    Tazio Nuvolari wannabe Scargo's Avatar
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    Can you clock your compressor? If so you could save over a foot of length in plumbing by pointing the outlet vertically and flipping over the AWIC. You'd remove a warm tube from under a cooled-down inlet hose at the throttle body, too and get less lag.

  38. #78
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    That looks cool!
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  39. #79
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kurk818 View Post
    That is looking clean.

    Great headway. Keep it up!
    Thanks!

    Quote Originally Posted by Scargo View Post
    Can you clock your compressor? If so you could save over a foot of length in plumbing by pointing the outlet vertically and flipping over the AWIC. You'd remove a warm tube from under a cooled-down inlet hose at the throttle body, too and get less lag.
    I played around with clocking the turbo when I was reassembling the compressor housing back on the CHRA but I would have to mod the wastegate bracket for anything but the stock orientation. Plus I wanted to have the BOV located off of the intercooler so that's why I went with my current setup. The run from the AWIC to TB is very short so I'm not too concerned with heat from the lower pipe. In case anyone is interested, the total cost of my AWIC setup was about $660 including the frozen boost parts through Craig, 30' of 0.75 ID hose from Napa for the heat exchanger to AWIC and HKS BOV and adapter pipe from ebay. The rear AWIC bracket was $125 and front heat exchanger bracket was $65, so make that $850 including brackets.

  40. #80
    Research Calibrator sponaugle's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by STiPWRD View Post
    Thanks!


    I played around with clocking the turbo when I was reassembling the compressor housing back on the CHRA but I would have to mod the wastegate bracket for anything but the stock orientation. Plus I wanted to have the BOV located off of the intercooler so that's why I went with my current setup. The run from the AWIC to TB is very short so I'm not too concerned with heat from the lower pipe. In case anyone is interested, the total cost of my AWIC setup was about $660 including the frozen boost parts through Craig, 30' of 0.75 ID hose from Napa for the heat exchanger to AWIC and HKS BOV and adapter pipe from ebay. The rear AWIC bracket was $125 and front heat exchanger bracket was $65, so make that $850 including brackets.

    Nice. Yea with an internal wastegate you are limited in how you can rotate the compressor cover. I have my current setup pretty much as Scargo mentioned:



    I had to order a few different silicone couplers, but in the end it worked out.

    Great to see your progress!

    Jeff

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