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Thread: Bompus 818S Build

  1. #41
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    $459 for all 4 of these tire sizes is cheap!
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  2. #42
    Senior Member wleehendrick's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bompus View Post
    Thoughts?
    I approve of the wheels! Especially since I recently got the same (but added my own touch):



    I'm in the same situation, originally planning on the Federals, but need to find something else due to availability, and I don't want to spend a grand on nice Yoko's. I have no experience with Nexen, but I'm leaning to Maxxis Victra MA-Z1. They're available in the same sizes, have gotten good reviews, and are even a little cheaper than the Nexen. With a 280 treadwear rating, I'm hoping they'll be a good balance for a 818 street tire.


    31 Wheels.jpg

    P.S. I lived in Scottsdale from 2000-2002; a co-worker would commute on his bike year-round, and on one 120F+ day, one of his bike tires did melt into the pavement while he was stopped at a red light!

  3. #43
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    Thanks for the info. For tires, Maxxis Victra MA-Z1 are now at the top of my list. Not bad for 400 from onlinetires. The tread looks sexier too

    And I wasn't kidding about tires melting to the pavement in Arizona. The heat here is horrible on soft tires.

  4. #44
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    Onlinetires apparently does not have anything in stock, so I ditched them. I ended up ordering the NFera SU1 tires from a local dealer for $585 out the door. I may have been able to save a little by going with simpletire, but didn't like their installer. I'll post pics once they are mounted on the XXR 530 wheels.

  5. #45
    Senior Member wleehendrick's Avatar
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    tell me about it. That's two orders of mine Onlinetires has been unable to fulfill. If they can't/won't update inventory they don't get a third try. I went back to good old TireRack and ordered a set of Kumho Ecsta LE Sports for $644 total; coming from NV, I should get them tomorrow. They're an 280 treadwear, assymetric tread. Hope I'll be happy with them, and that you are with your tire choice!

  6. #46
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    Well, this is embarrassing.. Just noticed the last post on my build thread was about 1.5 years ago.. wow! A lot has happened since then.. moved out of my old house, into a temporary one ( dad's house ) which only had a carport, so nothing got done there. Finally in the new house with a large garage and a decent amount of space to work. Now that I've given you a good excuse why I haven't posted in a while...

    Past year and half
    -- a lot of aluminum on

    -- wiring harness is in a position where I think it needs to be ( every time I think that, I notice something I need to rearrange though )

    -- wheels are on the car

    -- coolant pipes run. I went for the hard lines, since the corrugated stuff wanted to leak and I didn't feel like dealing with that long term.

    -- steering column shortened

    -- Corbeau FX1 Pro seats bought and test mounted with conbination sparco side mounts + aluminum bar, they seem to fit ok. I was going to try to fit the stock seats in, but couldn't figure out how to mount them. The stock seats didn't seem to match the manual instructions, and they seemed too wide, touching metal on both sides, and that was with a lot of effort to shove them into position. Even if I could have figured out a way to mount them, I wouldn't have been able to get the center console metal on afterward. With these seats, and the shortened column, I still barely fit in. I'm 5'9" 160lb. Contemplating a Boyd tank, but don't know if I want to deal with changing it out at this point. I think I can live with the gen 1 FFR tank + firewall for now, unless the coupe kit doesn't work with that firewall for whatever reason.

    -- probably a ton more that I forgot. I've been watching the forums daily though, so hopefully all the knowledge and tips can help me out when it comes to the body.

    Last month
    -- went to the Factory Five Huntington Beach Cruise-In, as a spectator. Saw a couple of coupes, the only two 818's at the show. I'm very close to buying the coupe retrofit kit. Then I'll want A/C ( please provide an A/C kit Factory Five! ).. it never ends!

    Past week
    -- loomed up my wires to look less messy

    -- ensured seats mounted and fit reasonably well

    -- wired up some PLX sensors + digital gauge to make sure the daisy chain sensor system worked - it does.

    Today
    -- Filled up the coolant

    -- fired up the engine, first time with coolant actually in it. I fired it up a few times before, but only let it run for < 30 seconds.

    -- burped some air out of the system! Only did one heat cycle, so I'm sure there is air left in there. I did Wayne's mod + ran a line from passenger side of radiator to the overflow as well, so it should take care of itself for the most part. It's drank about 3.5 gallons of Peak Global Lifetime so far, not sure how much more it can hold. I looked around and it seemed like most folks were fitting between 3.5 - 4.0 gallons. I have a Koyo aluminum radiator, so it might have more capacity over stock.. pretty sure it's thicker.

    I'll try to take some progress photos on all of the above over the next week or so. Hopefully my photos can help others out and you folks can take a second look at what I am doing to inform me of any stupidity on my part.

    If you don't hear back from me in a week or so, somebody revive the thread and wake me up again

  7. #47
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    Discouraged today. Was going to take it for it's first spin around the block, go-kart style. However, the engine was idling very lean ( 17-19 AFR ).. adjusting the fuel trim to bring that back down to the 13-14 level, but then I revved it up a bit to 3k rpm, let off the accelerator, and it stays there ( around 3k ) +/- 200 rpm. I also noticed as the engine warms, up the idle climbs up to about the 2k level. If it give it a bit of gas to raise to 2.5k, it stays there as well. Tried pushing the throttle assembly on the TB back to make sure it wasn't sticking, and didn't seem to be, but I can't for the life of me figure out the lean + high idle problem.

    I'm running the Electromotive TECs ECU, so I have some logging available, but it can only tell me so much. It seems to be slightly triggering the knock sensor / retard at idle even after the AFR is raised up to ~ 14, with 91 octane. Fuel pressure is adjusted to 42 psi @ idle. Coolant temp ~ 200. To me, the engine seems to be really hot for just idling with no real load.

    Ideas?

  8. #48
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    The IAC is probably sticking, common Subaru issue. I cleaned 2 recently. I soaked mine in gas until it spins freely. I sprayed it with some light oil and reassembled. the barrel on the end has a tab that fits in a slot on the black motor housing. The valve when assembled rocks back and forth about 90°.
    http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=781242

    Coolant temp of 200 while idling is fairly normal.
    Wayne Presley www.verycoolparts.com
    Xterminator 705 RWHP supercharged 4.6 DOHC with twin turbos

  9. #49
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    Thoroughly cleaned the IACV. It wasn't spinning very freely before, but now it is. I verified that the motor does move it by holding it grounded to the engine upside down while watching it. When I turn the key on, it moves back and forth quickly to reset itself to some position. I guess I'll try to smoke the engine area next to see if I can find a vacuum leak past the throttle body. Right now, it idles about 300-500 rpm higher than commanded, and if I rev it up to 2000 rpm, it just stays hovering at 2000 then until I kill the engine and start it up again, then back to 1200 - 1400 idle instead of the expected 900 - 1000. It seems to be worse when the engine is warm. Cold it seems to rev up to 2k then back down fine, but still idling high.

  10. #50
    Senior Member Tamra's Avatar
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    Do you have cruise control? I read about an issue with the earlier WRX's and the cruise control cable tightening as the engine bay heats up. Make sure both your throttle cable and cruise control cable have a little slack in them at idle.
    Tamra
    Building 818SR #297 picked up 10/25/14 with Andrew (xxguitarist)
    First start 12/21/14, First "drive" 1/17/15
    First Dyno at EFI Logics 3/7/15- 310whp at 15psi for break in, full spool by ~3500rpm!
    First autocross 3/29/15
    1st Registered 818 in Connecticut 7/24/2015. 9 months - 1 day from kit pickup!

  11. #51
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    No cruise control, throttle cable has plenty of slack, even when engine is hot. Built a smoke can last night, so I'll see if there are any vacuum leaks in the intake system. If not, guess I'll be replacing the IACV with a different branch ( Standard Motor Products AC524 ) and hope they improved on the internals a bit. Hopefully I find something silly with the smoke test though and don't need it.

  12. #52
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    Smoked it today, no leaks at all in the intake system. I purposely created one just to make sure it was working, and smoke came out when I loosened up something, so the $5 paint can smoker method does work.

    After that, decided to start it up with the intercooler unhooked from the throttle body, so I could spray-clean the TB and also feel how much air the IAC ( Idle Air Control Valve ) was pulling. After the engine warmed up a bit, it had the same exact symptoms, idles about 300-400 rpm high, and revving up to 2k, it just stays hovering there. At the 2k level, I could hear the IAC sucking a TON of air in. Verified throttle body was closed all the way. I sprayed some TB cleaner at it, and it sat in the bottom of the TB, so don't think the issue is with that not closing enough.

    While the engine is cold, I can command the Electromotive TECs ECU to put the IAC at 0%, 40%, etc, and the idle responds to the change, so it seems that the IAC motor is at least partially working. However, when it heats up, this doesn't seem to make any difference, so either the metal expanding causes it to hang up inside or the IAC motor being weak makes it fail.

    As an experiment, when it was idling at the 2k level, I put my finger over the IAC inlet, inside of the throttle body. I covered it up 1/2 - 3/4 of the way with a finger, and like magic, the idle went back down to 1.2k, and stayed there until I revved up again. I'm fairly confident the IAC motor is either weak, or the flapper is messed up somehow. I replicated this experiment a few times, and same result each time. Once it starts pulling air in, it seems like the IAC motor isn't powerful enough to block it off again, especially after it has warmed up.

    I ordered a new ~$215 Standard Motor Products AC524 Idle Air Control Valve from Amazon. It has a warranty, comes with new gasket and bolts, and is made by a different company than OEM, so hopefully they worked out some of the issues over the stock brand. I'm 50/50 on whether this will fix the problem, so crossing my fingers it isn't something more serious or stupid on my part.

    Guess I'll let you know how it goes when I get the new one shipped and installed.

  13. #53
    Senior Member AZPete's Avatar
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    Aaron, at least you are eliminating suspects like vacuum leaks, cruise/throttle, dirty IAC, etc. and I know you'll find the solution. Please let us know what you find so we'll all learn.
    818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities. Sold 10/19 with 5,800 miles.
    Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).

  14. #54
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    New iacv lowered by about 200rpm, but still idles at 1600-1800rpm warm. I can hear and feel the iacv port sucking air, so maybe it's wired up backwards or something. I reset the electromotive ecu to default settings and followed their initial setup / tuning guide and it responds very well off idle now, which I can live with.

    Anyway, took it for the first Drive today. Needs some tuning, but not horrible for the first time.

    https://youtu.be/qzKyvVZQthw

    Pretty sure my son was more excited than I was.

  15. #55
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    Your wife had a little of the " i can't believe it actually runs" in her voice talking to your son.
    Congrats on the first drive!
    Wayne Presley www.verycoolparts.com
    Xterminator 705 RWHP supercharged 4.6 DOHC with twin turbos

  16. #56
    Senior Member AZPete's Avatar
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    Congrats Aaron! Sounds good and it's rewarding to have solved the problem.
    818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities. Sold 10/19 with 5,800 miles.
    Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).

  17. #57
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    I didn't really solve the problem, still idles way too fast, but after having thoughts of selling the car to ease my frustration, decided to take it for a spin for motivation. Slightly more motivated to finish it now, but still wish I could get the idle down.

    I have an oil leak also, possibly the front main seal. I have a decent amount of oil dripping from the bottom passenger side of the plastic timing belt cover, so have to pull the cover off and see where it's coming from. It wouldn't bother me so much, but it's dripping directly on the exhaust manifold and I don't appreciate the smoke and possibility of fire from it.

  18. #58
    Moonlight Performance
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    Congrats on the first start and drive!

  19. #59
    Senior Member Tamra's Avatar
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    Congrats!
    Tamra
    Building 818SR #297 picked up 10/25/14 with Andrew (xxguitarist)
    First start 12/21/14, First "drive" 1/17/15
    First Dyno at EFI Logics 3/7/15- 310whp at 15psi for break in, full spool by ~3500rpm!
    First autocross 3/29/15
    1st Registered 818 in Connecticut 7/24/2015. 9 months - 1 day from kit pickup!

  20. #60
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    Pulled the engine + trans out to address some oil leaking onto the exhaust manifold from the lower passenger side timing cover. What a pain to pull it out! Had to remove the exhaust manifold piece between the up-pipe and cross-pipe on the passenger side so it would clear the engine bay, but finally got it out.

    Next step is popping off the timing cover and finding out where that oil is leaking from.

    While the engine is out, I'll may also replace some of the hose clamps on coolant lines with OEM-style spring clamps. I may have tossed all of the factory ones, hopefully not. I previously used Gates PowerGrip clamps, but some of them are still leaking, so not sure if I shrunk them enough or not. I'm also using lined silicone hoses for coolant, so might switch those back to rubber also.

  21. #61
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    You couldn't access the timing cover with the engine installed? There should be enough clearance there.

  22. #62
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    Absolutely not. Even if I took my added engine-side firewall off ( three triangles up top, one full wide rectangle at the bottom ), I wouldn't have been able to get in there enough to do much of anything. Maybe others are more patient than me, but I couldn't see a way to easily access that entire area without pulling the engine out. I might be able to change a timing belt without taking it out, but that would probably also involve removing at least one seat to have somewhere to stand and access it from - not a lot of room If somebody else has done something like this without pulling the motor, let me know how.

  23. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by bompus View Post
    Pulled the engine + trans out to address some oil leaking onto the exhaust manifold from the lower passenger side timing cover. What a pain to pull it out! Had to remove the exhaust manifold piece between the up-pipe and cross-pipe on the passenger side so it would clear the engine bay, but finally got it out.

    Next step is popping off the timing cover and finding out where that oil is leaking from.

    While the engine is out, I'll may also replace some of the hose clamps on coolant lines with OEM-style spring clamps. I may have tossed all of the factory ones, hopefully not. I previously used Gates PowerGrip clamps, but some of them are still leaking, so not sure if I shrunk them enough or not. I'm also using lined silicone hoses for coolant, so might switch those back to rubber also.
    My guess is one of the cam seals.
    818S - #67 (SOLD IT!)
    Delivered: 18 November 2013
    Go Karted: 29 December 2013
    Titled/Registered: 28 March 2014
    Finished: NEVER!
    341 hp @ 4844 RPM / 389 tq @ 3717 RPM

  24. #64
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    Check out this thread, Andrew and Tamra were able to replace the oil pump with the engine in place. This means you should also be able to access the cam seals.

    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...01-Leaking-Oil

  25. #65
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    I've changed the cams, and valve springs and retainers with the motor installed
    Wayne Presley www.verycoolparts.com
    Xterminator 705 RWHP supercharged 4.6 DOHC with twin turbos

  26. #66
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    Well. It's been a while.

    A long time ago, I replaced cam seals, oil pump sealed up much better than it was previously. No more signs of oil leak, at least not anywhere near the extent it was before.

    After I got the motor back in, life got busy. I took a very long break from the 818.

    Started working on it again a few weeks ago when outside temps dipped below 90. Had to reroute some wiring, fuel hose, breather hose, aos, fuel regulator, fuel filter, and more. This is my first kit, so learning a lot about placement and routing of various components.

    This week, I think I have the wiring harness positions much better , which allowed me to clean up my fuel, vacuum, breather hoses as well. I wasn't happy with seeing hoses and wires covering the view of the shiny intake manifold. Much better now!

    Also think I have a good location for the VCP shifter and stock ebrake. I ended up mounting the ebrake to the k-tuned shifter base, behind the shifter assembly. Took some chopping and drilling of the ebrake mount, but I'm happy with it so far. Cleverly? used the FFR supplied shift boot for the stock ebrake boot, with some modification. Not sure how it'll look in the end, but better than nothing.

    I was planning on running AC, but in the interest of finishing the build, I'm saving the AC for later/never.

    Also got a alum project box to mount the TECs ECU and several PLX sensor boxes. Planning to mount it on the firewall between the seats for easy access, but we'll see.

    I'll try to upload some pics of some of the above soon.

  27. Likes Mitch Wright, Canadian818 liked this post
  28. #67
    Senior Member AZPete's Avatar
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    Aaron, it's good to see you back here. Whenever I get busy with other stuff and ignore the 818 project for a while, it's tough to get started again . . . where was I? what's next? what's done? . . . but once I get out in the garage it starts to make sense and becomes fun again. I'm glad you jumped back in the pool and look forward to you getting back on the road. We've got 8 months of beautiful weather ahead, so now's the time.
    Pete
    818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities. Sold 10/19 with 5,800 miles.
    Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).

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  30. #68
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    Well then.. life is interesting.

    If anyone is looking for an 818, I might be moving out of Arizona and likely won't be able to take my build. It's almost completed. I can even throw in some tools if you need them �� It sucks for me, but if anyone is looking to build or resell, you'll probably save a lot of $ and time with this one.

    Photos : https://photos.app.goo.gl/CHHR6pxfRLS7PdULA

    Windshield and soft top (optional) are currently in unopened boxes.
    Last edited by bompus; 10-15-2019 at 08:10 PM.

  31. #69
    Senior Member AZPete's Avatar
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    Oh no, Aaron, I'm sad to see you won't finish your 818 but someone will get a very well-made car to finish!
    818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities. Sold 10/19 with 5,800 miles.
    Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).

  32. #70
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Man that sucks, life is "not" interesting. Hopefully you'll have great projects in AZ, there are so many awesome 818 guys around there you can meet. Like the one in the above post, for instance... loll

    If you ever decide to sell your PLX wideband alone, let me know.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

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