1997 Factory Five Mk ? Roadster

[Brada]

Hello Factory Five,
Building a Cobra has long been a dream of mine. Cost and time restraints have been holding me back but I think I have come upon a unique opportunity? I'm considering a purchase of a 1997 Factory Five Mk? Cobra. I would say that the build is about 50% complete and it supposedly includes everything to finish the build minus the gauges. I believe it was built with a 1996 5.0 Mustang donor car.

Here are my questions;
1) I know the entire kit has had numerous improvements, especially to the frame. Is there any way I can make some of the upgrades to my frame by ordering the pieces and putting them in myself?
Particularly to the foot wells and passenger roll bar mount?

2) What series car do I have here? (Mk1 or 2)?

3) Is there anything I should be concerned about with this model, safety issues in particular?

4) Can I put the stainless side pipes on the car and what will it take to do so?
I appreciate your help and I look forward to finishing this kit and doing business with you.

Sincerely,
Brad

[2FAST4U]

You have a Mark 1 chassis

[Jeff Kleiner]

If it was produced in 1997 it is a Mk1, and a very early one at that. Yes, there have been updates, upgrades and revisions to the chassis and body but that doesn't mean that you shouldn't consider it if it's a screaming good deal. You could make some of the chassis upgrades but you will have to do the fabrication yourself. If it has a 5.0 it was not built with a '96 donor; last year for the Windsor engine in a Mustang was '95.

Jeff

[skullandbones]

If you are getting a deal that justifies the older version (quite a bit of extra fabrication to improve foot boxes, etc....) then go for it. But you should weigh that against a purchase of the basic kit now (MKIV) and the 50/50 sale. In 1997, FFR didn't offer a complete roadster kit. Not that you are really going to buy it but to compare cost and inventory. Unless you are getting a very good price, you may get a better value by spending a little more. It depends on a lot of factors but it would be worth the calculations to get the best bang for the buck. BTW, I am doing my own body work/paint so that is a real consideration if you are thinking of a MKI (lots of work and labor to finish and paint). Just make sure the deal is as good on paper as it sounds to you right now. BTW: the side pipes should be no problem but another suggestion is to get 4x4 headers as they really improve breathing of 5.0 (along with good heads) and they make the installation of the side pipes much easier than J pipes. Sorry but you knew when you came here that it is our job to spend your money!!!

Good luck on which ever choice you make,

WEK.

[Brada]

Considering that this kit is over 15 years old, and that the driveline stuff is all done with the older 5.0 FI,freshened w/ new pistons, larger intake;under drive pulleys along with T-5 transmission new clutch and pressure plate and drive shaft all installed. That s as far as the build is at this point. Everything is supposedly included but the gauges. In your opinion, What would constitute a good deal? FYI It has the FFR Hal wheels w/BF's that are also over 15 years old.

[mrmustang]

Considering that this kit is over 15 years old, and that the driveline stuff is all done with the older 5.0 FI,freshened w/ new pistons, larger intake;under drive pulleys along with T-5 transmission new clutch and pressure plate and drive shaft all installed. That s as far as the build is at this point. Everything is supposedly included but the gauges. In your opinion, What would constitute a good deal? FYI It has the FFR Hal wheels w/BF's that are also over 15 years old.

You really need to give a LOT more details.

What motor? (value is all in the details)
What transmission? (which T5)
What brakes? (front and rear, disk/disk, disk/drum, etc)?
What suspension pieces? (tubular vs stock donor)
Which shocks and spring set up?(donor vs coil overs, etc)
Which HAL (?) wheels? (Bolt on, true knock off, 4 lug, 5 lug)
Chrome rollbar?
Powdercoated side pipes?
Powdercoated chassis/frame?

Has any bodywork been started?


Again the value is all in the details.


Bill S.

[skullandbones]

Bill S is right. If you've got a bare frame that is rusty that could be a deal breaker for me. If it has been stored in a good environment and everything is in decent condition that could be worth while. If you have a chance to survey the project in person that would be the best way. If you don't feel comfortable making the evaluations have someone you know or someone is willing to look it over with a critical eye. It also depends on whether the guy is willing to negotiate. You didn't say what was being asked. If he says 15k firm, I would walk away if the project is ragged. If he is negotiable then you might pick it up for 12k. It depends on his needs and the condition of the project. There are just too many variables. If it's in great shape, motor runs and all components and accessories are there then 15k might be worth it. Just having all the things together and ready to use on that particular project is a time saver. You will be investing time, labor (clean up, modifications, etc....) so that needs to be adjusted into the mix. If you buy a kit that is in bad condition you will regret all the extra work going forward. For instance, are the brake rotors calipers, and other small suspension parts already reconditioned or replaced. I got exactly the donor parts I wanted by picking them myself and reconditioning. So I'm not stuck with someone else's poor choice of components. That's a compromise you will have to consider as you may have to replace some of those. In your case, those throwaways would have no value.

You would have to include a lot of specifics to really get any accurate advice. Also, you have to decide how much is it worth to save time getting this started and will the time be well spent.

Good luck,

WEK.

[michael everson]

I don't even take interest in partial kits until the are 50% of new. I have bought and assembled many of them. Nothing wrong with a mark one. Once it's built, it's all smile and miles. Build it and enjoy.
Mike

[Brada]

Ok, I'll try and give you a better idea what I'm looking at. From what I can tell this person is legitimate and trustworthy. He is an older gentleman who purchased directly from Dave back in the day, he even went to the build class that they had back in 1997. I have seen the frame and motor, tranny setup complete with driveshaft installed. The entire project has been stored in his garage and looks to be in perfect shape, with black powder coating and black powder coating on the side pipes too. He told me ( and I don't know that much about all this stuff) that the 5.0 was the best year out of the series with the most improvements. I can't remember but an early 90's motor I think. It has the stock 5.0 mustang tranny out of an donor car. He told me the motor has had new pistons, connecting rods, and rings, it has a larger intake, 62mm I think he said. All the stock brakes are on and have new linings an have been cleaned up and re painted. Everything on the frame looks great and new. No rusty anything. The motor has not been fired up yet since the rebuild, and there is no quick way for me to see it run. If I buy it, then I'm going to have to take his word that everything has been done correctly. He seems like the kind of guy that does things right? But who knows. No body work has been done and it looks to have the white gel coat finish. I have not seen anything but the doors. The shell is stored someplace else. He has boxes and boxes of stuff. Carefully stored and he even sprung for the leather seats, window side shield, heater box and controls, oil filter relocation kit, radiator in line fill kit. The wheels are the 15" Halibrand replica wheels that FFR sells today, again everything looks to be in like new condition. The 5.0 seems to have some type of equal length tube headers (chrome or SS) new water pump, alt, and under drive pulleys. No fan so I'm assuming he has the electric fan for the radiator?. That's about all I have for details thus far. So if I could pick this up for 15k or a little better VS $20k for the complete kit plus another $10+ K for new 5.0 and the Tremic 5 speed, plus all the other little things, plus paint... I'll be into the dream Cobra for around$35 large if I'm lucky, right?
This other way, possible $20 K if nothing goes terribly wrong? Does that sound close to reality? Again, I appreciate all your input! Thanks, B-Rad

[skullandbones]

The engine would concern me. I would have a look into the cylinders with an inspection camera if available. Make sure it turns freely. BTW 62mm throttle body is only slightly larger than the GT or may be a late model GT. Great chassis, 4x4 headers, new wheels, engine, trans, diff (check the plate on the cover for ratio etc) is all good. You must be close as you have seen this right? So if that is true you are at an advantage with shipping which could be 800 to 1000. If he has been to build school and you are close you might make a friend who will help you on the build! You will save on some transactions such as sales tax, freight, and the whole logistics of gathering up these components. Parts still in boxes is good, too.

What Michael said is a good rule of thumbs. I could only come up with around $9000 if I calced the components correctly (just a guess). If you get it between 9 and 12K you are golden as it would give you some breathing room. It comes down to how valuable your time is to you. If you get this partially done project, I can see you saving a ton of time which will put you much closer to the painter.

Sorry if I've chimed in too much. I just got kind of excited. If it's as good as you say it is, that's one of those things that comes along only once or twice.

Good luck,

WEK.

[MPTech]

Assuming you buy it, a couple things I would highly recommend for your build:

• Speedhut electronic gauges (w / GPS speedo) I REALLY like mine and they are customizable
• if it has a donor wiring harness, I'd suggest replacing with a Ron Francis or Painless wiring harness
• upgrade to the current shock setup
• lookup and install the PS FB Mod, it will make the footbox HUGE on the early MK1 (I think it will work and also give you a dropped floor)

Good luck, hope your dreams work out for you!

[Jeff Kleiner]

In my opinion $9,000 would be a stretch (and that assumes he can produce receipts for all of the engine work and components). I completed a partially built roadster last year that the owner got for a good price but after getting it here and looking over the work that had been done by the previous builder I decided to completely disassemble it and do a complete ground up. Just something to keep in mind when you're inheriting someone else's work on a partially built car.

Jeff

[edwardb]

A completed, painted, and running Mk1 donor build wouldn't bring much more than the numbers you're describing. I agree with Bill, that many other details (specifically brakes, suspension, wiring, gauges, etc.) are missing. I also agree with the Mike and Jeff. 50% is a stretch, at best. This is hard for the seller, because it will sound like low-balling something that was probably his life long dream and he has put a lot of work into. But it's the reality of the situation. A Mk1 is fine, but the new Mk's have a ton of improvements that would be challenging (and not too cost effective IMHO) to add to an early model. The 15 year old tires are good for the build and pushing around in the shop, but I wouldn't use them. 15 inch rims have their own challenges, although many use them. The engine is a gamble, if for no other reason than it's been sitting for a long time, and even if OK and running, is at the lower end of what is put in many builds.

My two builds (a Mk3 and a Mk4) were both bought partially started from the original owners. They both represented significant savings. So there are deals out there.

[mrmustang]

$7,500-$9,000 would be about it. The drivetrain is a mystery and needs to be treated as such. The early gelcoat body is going to need ALOT of work, better factor that in. Maybe even consider trashing the body and getting a "McBruce" replacement.



Bill S.

[Brada]

You mentioned the 50/50 sale at FFR, What's the deal there?

[Brada]

What's a McBruce replacement body? And where can I get info on one?

[edwardb]

I see no one else has responded. I don't have specific personal knowledge, but can give ideas.

You mentioned the 50/50 sale at FFR, What's the deal there?

Factory Five often has sales. Maybe a couple times a year, although I don't keep track. One of the more recent was 50% off on options added to kit purchases. I don't see any sales offers right now.

What's a McBruce replacement body? And where can I get info on one?

There is a guy over on the other forum (FFCars.com) that made molds and sold a few FIA and Slabside bodies to fit Mk3 Roadsters. They're not marketed, and don't know if still available. These are very specialized, e.g. for guys looking for something other than the normal 427 SC style body. I looked, and he hasn't even been on the forum for several years. I personally wouldn't consider this a real strong lead. Others may think/know otherwise.

I just noticed you posted this thread in the "Ask Factory Five" forum. They will occasionally answer very specific technical questions on this forum. But your best bet always to get help from them is to call and speak to them directly. But questions about a used Mk1 purchase are probably best answered as they have been already by forum members.

I also just noticed no one answered your stainless pipe question. I'm pretty sure the answer is "yes" they should fit a Mk1. There is no physical difference between the plain steel and stainless side pipes. Only the material and finish.

[Brada]

Thank you

[Brada]

I see that you have purchased two kits from people who's started them and didn't finish. Is there a specific place to look for these deals other than eBay? I would like to do some comparison shopping before I over pay the kit I'm looking at now. And what should I be looking to pay?
Thanks....

[edwardb]

I see that you have purchased two kits from people who's started them and didn't finish. Is there a specific place to look for these deals other than eBay? I would like to do some comparison shopping before I over pay the kit I'm looking at now. And what should I be looking to pay?
Thanks....

Both of my partial kits were from for sale listings over on the other forum FFCars.com. It's been around a long time and has a lot of traffic and members. More than this newer one from Factory Five. You can watch the for sale listings over there, or even post a wanted ad. Other options are clubcobra and cobracountry. Both are for all brands though, not just Factory Five. Cobracountry is mainly completed cars. eBay will have listings occasionally, but my observation is mainly completed cars vs. kits. Never know though.

Comparison shopping is not going to be too easy because there aren't a ton that come up for sale and the good deals typically go pretty fast. Especially newer versions with good quality parts and build choices. Personally I would be looking for a Mk4 first. They've been out long enough that there are quite a few in the pipeline. Mk3's are a good alternate. I guess my main thought to you is yes there are savings to be had, but buyer beware. The build quality is all over the map. My first one was started by a professional fabricator and was absolutely top notch. My main job was to not mess it up. My second was barely started. So it was nearly like getting one from the factory. There is opportunity to save some money if you're patient and flexible. But be realistic. Buying from the factory is still the best way to get exactly what you want and do it your way.

[Brada]

I would prefer to buy directly from FFR but I have kids and a wife in collage and by my math, it's going to take a minimum of $40 grand to build the dream cobra. so I'm thinking that around $20 grand is a lot more realistic at this point in my game....
Thanks for the input and I'll keep my eyes open for other mk4's or 3's

[skullandbones]

You've gotten good advice. I may have been a little high on the numbers but that may not be your best deal anyway. I would suggest the basic kit and the 50/50 sale would be a great savings for you (it will not get cheaper). Over time you can add to that as I did. I took a long time partially due to expense. When you spread the expense over several years it is much more manageable. I got immense enjoyment out of having the roadster in my garage. BTW, you can plan all you want but there is no substitute for putting your hands on one of these projects. Mine is not a premium build but it is far from a budget build also. I'm into it for about 28k driving in primer (1020 miles). So keep your eyes pealed. You could find a very good quality built roadster. But if you just have to get your hands "dirty" then you should build it. Then you can say you know every rivet, bolt, nut, washer, in the whole car! That's pretty awesome.

Good luck,

WEK.

Good luck,

WEK.

[Brada]

WEK,
Thanks for the advice! Because of time and money constraints, I think the perfect combo for me at this point is to get one that was started by someone else, hopefully someone who knew what they were doing and take it from there. I agree! I do I want to build it. I always liked building models as a kid and to me, this looks just like a model for big kids. So I'm really looking forward to it. This Mk1 I'm looking at now just might be the ticket if I can figure out what to offer. He's asking around $16k, but that where he started, who really know what he'll settle for? What do you know about the white gel coat on the Mk1 "VS" the red gel coat on the Mk4? Why are people saying it take much more time to prep for paint with the white?

[edwardb]

WEK,
Thanks for the advice! Because of time and money constraints, I think the perfect combo for me at this point is to get one that was started by someone else, hopefully someone who knew what they were doing and take it from there. I agree! I do I want to build it. I always liked building models as a kid and to me, this looks just like a model for big kids. So I'm really looking forward to it. This Mk1 I'm looking at now just might be the ticket if I can figure out what to offer. He's asking around $16k, but that where he started, who really know what he'll settle for? What do you know about the white gel coat on the Mk1 "VS" the red gel coat on the Mk4? Why are people saying it take much more time to prep for paint with the white?

The body is not a white vs. red discussion. The color of the gel coat doesn't change anything. FFR used different colors for the different Mk's to differentiate them. Mk3's were black, Mk4's red, etc. The point is that the bodies are like the rest of the car. Each subsequent generation had new molds and incorporated upgrades plus quality improvements. The newest versions have inner and outer molded shells on the hood, trunk and doors. Hinges in all cases are improved. The Mk4 body mounts are completely hidden. Etc. I personally have not seen an unfinished Mk1 body. I can tell you there is a major difference in quality between the Mk3 body I have completed and the Mk4 body still under construction.

One other thing I have to say, and take it for what it's worth. These are not a big version of the models you (and I) made as kids. Each is a custom project with a fair number of challenges that will come up, and require a reasonable degree of patience, mechanical ability and problem solving. Many of the partially built kits on the market are because people underestimated one of these aspects. I see people getting frustrated because these aren't "insert tab A into slot B" kind of projects. If that's really what you're expecting, it may not be for you. Factory Five is a great company, and I have tremendous respect for what they do. But they're not perfect, every build is different so there are a ton of variables, and very likely you will have to work through some things. To be honest, I'm not sure how much support could be realistically expected from them on an older model like the one you're looking at. At the very least, I would expect it to be less than for more current models. Not trying to be negative, because I find this to be tremendously rewarding. The driving is a blast, but the planning and building is as rewarding as it comes as well. But it's not for everyone. If you haven't already, really suggest you try to find people in your area that have builds underway, where you could maybe get some rides, etc. (Don't expect anyone to let you drive one...). You will learn a lot and really help you decide. Again, good luck.

[skullandbones]

Hi Brada,

Listen to edwardb (experience trumps enthusiasm). He has built multiple of these projects. I have only one FFR under my belt although I have built many hot rods and engines over the years. But he and people like Jeff K. have hands on experience with the variations of the different FFRs. The work to get the MkI to the same level of perfection as the MKIV is more than you can imagine. Just the quality of the hinge kit and reinforced hood and inner liner is amazing. As far as the analogy of the model building, I understand where you are coming from (I had 150 model cars). This is not a model car. Nothing fits perfectly. I have tweeked so many things to adjust the fit, I just expect it now. If I built another, I could probably do it in half the time but that is not likely to happen. I might help someone build theirs if requested. The MKIV is a much better value. After reading the other posts, I would go with their recommendations. I love my MKIII and wouldn't do anything to change the experience but personally I don't think I would attempt a build of another MKIII. It would have to be a MKIV because I have done mods that make it like an MKIV from the clutch quadrant and rebuilding the foot box top to my front suspension. If you get the MKIV you are miles ahead.

WEK.

[Jeff Kleiner]

...One other thing I have to say, and take it for what it's worth. These are not a big version of the models you (and I) made as kids. Each is a custom project with a fair number of challenges that will come up, and require a reasonable degree of patience, mechanical ability and problem solving. Many of the partially built kits on the market are because people underestimated one of these aspects. I see people getting frustrated because these aren't "insert tab A into slot B" kind of projects. If that's really what you're expecting, it may not be for you...

Thank you, thank you thank you! We see examples of this here as well as on the other forum almost daily. I'm afraid that at times FFR's marketing makes it sound almost TOO simple which sometimes leads to people thinking if they can assemble a gas grille from Lowes they can put together a car. The builder still needs to understand how all of the auto's systems function, and if they do not then I'm not sure I want to share the road, much less a track, with a car they screwed together.

At your price point Brad I think your best bet is to shop for a basic older completed car, probably a Mk1 or 2,that you can use immediately and make upgrades/improvements as time and finances allow. Take your time and don't jump on the first thing you see unless it's a screaming deal. Frankly, from what you have told us the incomplete Mk1 you found is not. Good luck with your search; it will be part of the adventure!

Jeff

[OCCPete]

One issue you could have that no one has mentioned - many of the parts you list FFR did not sell with the kit in '97 (Halibrand wheels for example). The seller must have purchased them from a third party. Those parts may or may not end up working. Just something to consider.

[Brada]

The wheels and tires are on the car so I think they will be ok.

[Brada]

Ok, I may have led you guys astray a little bit. If I gave you the impression that I was hoping to put this Mk1 together with a little Testors glue and a Xacto knife, than I gave you the wrong impression of me. I have a fairly well stocked garage, I'm no stranger to working on automobiles either. I do a lot of fabrication and welding too. So none of the above challenges associated with the build worries me in the least. Are you guys trying to tell me I can find a fully completed Mk1 or Mk2 for under $15, 000? If so Where? I haven't seen anything like that. Every thing on the market right now that I can see is $25 to $30 grand minimum... SO back to the beginning... If this MK1 kit I'm looking at has all the parts and pieces minus the gauges, and the fellow who is selling it, has done a good job putting the complete drivetrain, suspension, brakes, wheels and tires to the frame. Are you guys saying that $10,000 would be too much to pay for this kit? (I saw $7 to $9 K suggested in previous post as the most you would pay). Why is that? Is the MK1 that bad of a design? What if I didn't try to improve it or bring it up to MK4 standards and just built it as a true blue Mk1?
Is it safe? Will it go fast and be fun to drive? And if not, where can I get something better for around $20 grand. I haven't see anything at that price completely built, not even off brand kits with stress cracks in the fiberglass... So I'm thinking this Mk1 still might be my best chance of getting into a FFR Cobra anytime soon. Any real solid reasons why this is a bad idea?
Bottom line, If the Mk1 is not a real dud or unsafe, what's the max I should offer this guy who's had it for 15 years?

[bil1024]

I would offer 10k,

[edwardb]

Ok, I may have led you guys astray a little bit. If I gave you the impression that I was hoping to put this Mk1 together with a little Testors glue and a Xacto knife, than I gave you the wrong impression of me. I have a fairly well stocked garage, I'm no stranger to working on automobiles either. I do a lot of fabrication and welding too. So none of the above challenges associated with the build worries me in the least. Are you guys trying to tell me I can find a fully completed Mk1 or Mk2 for under $15, 000? If so Where? I haven't seen anything like that. Every thing on the market right now that I can see is $25 to $30 grand minimum... SO back to the beginning... If this MK1 kit I'm looking at has all the parts and pieces minus the gauges, and the fellow who is selling it, has done a good job putting the complete drivetrain, suspension, brakes, wheels and tires to the frame. Are you guys saying that $10,000 would be too much to pay for this kit? (I saw $7 to $9 K suggested in previous post as the most you would pay). Why is that? Is the MK1 that bad of a design? What if I didn't try to improve it or bring it up to MK4 standards and just built it as a true blue Mk1?
Is it safe? Will it go fast and be fun to drive? And if not, where can I get something better for around $20 grand. I haven't see anything at that price completely built, not even off brand kits with stress cracks in the fiberglass... So I'm thinking this Mk1 still might be my best chance of getting into a FFR Cobra anytime soon. Any real solid reasons why this is a bad idea?
Bottom line, If the Mk1 is not a real dud or unsafe, what's the max I should offer this guy who's had it for 15 years?

Didn't mean to insult you with the model car thing. Like I said, "for what it's worth." Sounds like you have both feet on the ground and the tools/skills necessary. But this sometimes isn't the case, and as Jeff also commented he sees it too. You're obviously pretty focused on making this Mk1 kit work. Is it a "dud or unsafe?" No. Many still on the road with happy owners. It doesn't have some of the same chassis components around the driver/passenger area, so perhaps there's a safety difference in a crash. But you don't want to be crashing in any of these. You have to decide. If you can get in the game for 8-9-10K, I guess that's your choice. It's not a good value at 15K IMO, and as others have said. Just don't underestimate the cost to finish. There are/will be surprises ahead. If you have it painted, depending on the quality level you're going for, this can be a major expense. Think thousands. This was the biggest budget surprise for my first build. I can only recommend (again) to look for owners in your area and get first hand knowledge of the newer versions and then decide if this is really the best value. Tell us where you're located (and on the other forum too) and I'll bet there are guys around you that would be happy to show you their builds or completed cars. I've had several drop in on both of my builds. And yes there are older less featured completed/running cars out there in the $18 -20K range (and up of course) but you have to be patient and wait for them to come around. Again, good luck.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Exactly what edwardb said. Nothing. at all "wrong" or unsafe with a Mk1 we're just trying to help you put a realistic value on it. This car isn't running and you would be taking a leap of faith. Personally I wouldn't take that leap at a price over $8-9k. No, you won't find a running/driving car for $15k but it is possible to find them in the low 20's that you mention as a final goal for the one you're considering.

Truly and sincerely wishing you the best of luck,
Jeff

[MPTech]

If you can do the deal for 9 or 10k, if you can commit to finishing it (it will be more challenging than the later models), and it gets you in the game now. Do it! You won't regret it. How old are you kids? It's a great bonding project for the family too. I wish my kids were young enough to enjoy it and participate.

Have you seen any builds in-process? Just wondering how familiar you are with FFR builds?

Is there a local club? That's a TERRIFIC resource.

[Arrowhead]

I'd be more concerned with the internal condition of the engine than anything else. If it's been sitting stagnant in the chassis for 15+ years, I wouldn't have a lot of faith in it. I'd pull it apart for an inspection and new gaskets at the minimum.

[Brada]

OK, you guys have got me rethinking my strategy!
Just for the heck of it, I started looking at possible donor cars in the area. As it turns out there are at least a dozen less the 2 hours away, even a couple so called Florida cars with supposedly "no Rust". That's the big problem up here in Maine with older car. Everything from the older 5.0 for $2500 to a newer 4.6 for $6800.
Anyway if I go with a new MK4 base kit (and I have some question about that in a minute). What donor car should I shoot for?
I was thinking the '96 to '04 series with the 4.6L. Love to find a wreck with the new 5.0, but its unlikely... Any particular 4.6 I should shoot for? Also there are a couple potential donors that have engine mods all ready, one with a SC and another one that normally aspirated that dyno ed at 404 hp + new clutch and posi rear end.
Also, should I go with the base kit @ $12,990 or is there some value I'm not seeing, that makes more sense to go with the complete kit @ $19,900 + donor car?
I really do appreciate all of you input!
Barad

[68GT500MAN]

One additional thought, do not let the "rust free" comment influence your decision. The parts you need for the build and all be cleaned up with a wire brush, elbow grease ands coated with a product such as POR-15. You may be able to find a "rust bucket" that has great running gear for a steal. I built mine before the complete kit was available and it is great. The complete kit was developed when FFR discovered that a lot of people were going the "non-donor" route to help them out.
Doug

[edwardb]

Generally speaking, the base kit is designed for a donor build and the complete kit a non-donor build, as already pointed out. The right donor and a base kit has the potential for the lowest build cost. Doubt it's your best value to go complete kit plus donor. Having said that, lots of builds are base kits without a donor, e.g. the builder makes all the part selections vs. those provided by FFR. Both of my builds have been this way. Lots of debate about whether this is a better value or not. It probably could be if you're careful, do lots of shopping, and (especially) know what you're doing. But it's nearly impossible to not upgrade as you go, and while you end up with a higher end build you do spend more $$. At least that's what's happened to me...

[Brada]

Yeah... I too tend to get the better more expensive stuff!

[edwardb]

You mentioned the 50/50 sale at FFR, What's the deal there?

There you go... Factory Five just announced today the 50/50 sale is back. https://www.factoryfive.com/whats-ne...e-spring-sale/