-
25th Anniversary #9772
-
On a roll
I have mine held in place with sheet metal screws. The access panels are covered by carpet. But.... it's not the end of the world if you rivet them in place: you can always drill them out if you have to.
Mk IV Roadster - #8650 - delivered 7-17-2015 - first start 7-28-2018 - first go-kart 10-13-2018 - licensed and on the road 9-9-19: body/paint completed 3-17-2020.
Complete kit / 2015 Coyote / TKO600 / IRS / Wilwood brakes / Mid-Shift mod / Power Steering / Heater and Seat Heaters / RT turn signal / Breeze radiator shroud and mount
-
Post Thanks / Like - 0 Thanks, 1 Likes
-
Not a waxer
On my own car I've had to go through the trunk access panels the same number of times I've needed to drop the dashboard and remove the transmission tunnel top---which in 14 years is exactly zero.
Jeff
-
Post Thanks / Like - 0 Thanks, 3 Likes
-
I riveted them and carpeted over because I will never need to access. My gas gauge is now going nuts and likely the sender....... :-)
-
I guess you could go wild and install PEM or rivnuts into the holes in the underlying panel, increase the rivet holes to allow a short machine screw to pass, and then fasten them into place that way.
-
Senior Member
Button head hex drive screws. Operating under the theory that access panels need to provide access.
-
Post Thanks / Like - 0 Thanks, 1 Likes
-
Senior Member
I am in the riveted shut and carpeted over group. Have had to access once to replace the in tank fuel pump for the Sniper upgrade. Pulling the carpet up was a bigger deal than drilling the rivets and that was still easy.
Norm
Mk4 base kit 7721, 331 Stroker, Holley Sniper EFI, Wipers, Heater, Whitby Soft Top, Drop trunk mod and more
-
Post Thanks / Like - 0 Thanks, 1 Likes
-
25th Anniversary #9772
Originally Posted by
BEAR-AvHistory
Button head hex drive screws. Operating under the theory that access panels need to provide access.
ah that's pretty smart looking!
-
Post Thanks / Like - 1 Thanks, 0 Likes
-
Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
Everything on my car is accessible because the O.C.D. Gene Runs Strong in my bloodline:
1. Dashboard
2. Transmission Tunnel Top
3. Stereo
4. Stereo Speakers
5. Brake & Clutch Master Cylinders
6. Clutch Slave Cylinder
7. Fuel Line Pick Up
8. Fuel Gauge Sending Unit
Just understand that it is a Personality Disorder or something like that because only one fastener was used so only one tool is needed.
On that note please pray for my wife for putting up with me for 40 years.
Last edited by GoDadGo; 04-06-2021 at 05:15 PM.
-
Post Thanks / Like - 0 Thanks, 5 Likes
-
Senior Member
I riveted them and carpeted over them. I used a lighter adhesive on the carpet in those areas so I can pull it up and get access by drilling out rivits. Don't plan on needing access but can get to it if needed with little to no pain.
MKIV #7275 Acquired June 2019 (2010 partial build), Gen 2 Coyote by Forte w/TK600- PRO 5.0 - McLeod RST twin Clutch-QT Bell, old style IRS, 8.8 3.55 Rear, Gas'n Headers/Pipes, Power Steering, Hydroboost by Forte, Breeze Roll Bar, Heated Seats, 17" halibrand w/ Nitto G2, Maradyne Fan Controller, Paul Proe Vent Kit, Russ Thompson Signal w/ FTP- Received June 2019/First Start April 2020/Go Cart May 2020/Legal September 2020/PAINT BY SPOTLIGHT CUSTOMS JAN 2021
-
Post Thanks / Like - 0 Thanks, 1 Likes
-
Senior Member
I did rivnuts and black screws. I may never need access, but I like the peace of mind that I have it. If you carpet the access panel, you can barely tell it's there:
MKIV Complete Kit #9822 l BluePrint 347 EFI l TKO600 l Power Steering l Heater/Defrost l
Build Thread
-
Post Thanks / Like - 0 Thanks, 1 Likes
-
Senior Member
I wouldn't use anything less than Inconel screws purchased from NASA. God knows once something is riveted you can't drill them out.
Mrk III, 331 stroker, Borla stack injection, T5, 3:55 IRS, Power steering and brakes. Kleiner body & paint
-
Post Thanks / Like - 0 Thanks, 1 Likes
-
Senior Member
I used rivnuts on those access panels then I powder coated the access panels matte black to match the frame that is exposed in my drop trunk mod.
Last edited by nucjd19; 04-06-2021 at 08:46 PM.
FFR MK4 Roadster (9945) complete kit, delivered 12/4/2020, First start and go kart 5/7/2021. Legal 8/14/2021, Paint finished 7/18/2022 (Viking Blue). 347BPE CI, TKO600, Moser 8.8 3link 3.55, Halibrand 17x9 17x10.5, power steering. Carbon Fiber Dash. Carbon Fiber trans tunnel, adjustable Kirkey Lowback Vintage seats, Vintage gauges, RT drop trunk mod, FFmetal drop battery mod and trans tunnel, Forte front sway bar. Forte mechanical throttle linkage, RT gas pedal.
www.covespringsfarm.com
-
Post Thanks / Like - 0 Thanks, 1 Likes
-
Enlarged the opening and used rivnuts and machine screws to make it accessible. Probably overkill.
2643029A-9342-42E8-AEEF-133E722BD56D.jpeg
894F0A8B-F0BC-44DF-BCEB-6CB53B015558.jpeg
Last edited by RJD; 04-06-2021 at 09:34 PM.
MKIV complete kit w/powder coating and cut outs, serial #9189 delivered 10/10/17, first start - 10/5/18, legal - 10/08/20. Blueprint 306 w/Holley Sniper EFI, TKO 600, power steering, Breeze fan shroud, trunk cubby, & engine compartment battery kit, CNC brake reservoirs, RT turn signal & gas pedal, mechanical throttle linkage, METCO safety loop, GASN side pipes, drop trunk, dual chrome roll bars, vintage gauges, glove box, custom center console, cup holders, and speakers.
-
Post Thanks / Like - 0 Thanks, 1 Likes
-
Senior Member
I riveted and carpeted over them out of sheer laziness. I did mask the area over the access panels so no adhesive stuck. Figured I could cut out the carpet over the panels if I really needed to in the future.
MK IV Roadster #7999
Ford Racing 427x; QF 670 Carb; TKO 600; 3.31 Rear End; 3-link; 17” Halibrand Replicas (9” front, 10.5” rear), Khumo Ecstas (245 front, 315 rear), EPAS Power Steering; Power Brakes; 8/1/19 - Legal in gelcoat!; 12/1/20 - Paint & bodywork in progress! Silver, no black, no red, wait now silver....
-
Post Thanks / Like - 0 Thanks, 2 Likes
-
Senior Member
An3-6 bolts , Rivnuts powder coated panels and carpeted over.
-
Senior Member
It's a car, a not Lego set. :-) No need for it to click apart.
Mine are also riveted and carpeted. I broke my fuel level sender during an autocross. How's that for lateral Gs? I dropped the tank to replace it. I was curious, so I timed it. After the car was jacked up......12 minutes. Big deal once in 7 years.
The last thing you want is to make your trunk less watertight.
-
Post Thanks / Like - 0 Thanks, 1 Likes
-
Rivets are easy enough to drill out if you need access, provided you didn't glue the carpet down so well that you pull all the fibers through the backing when you try to pull it up. I used nut-certs and screws. If I never have to remove the covers, no big deal. If I do, easy to do now.
-
Senior Member
To the OP,
It depends.
If you have an in-tank fuel pump, you may want to be able to access it from time to time for replacement (ask me how I know). If you have a lift, disregard it.
If you have a mechanical fuel pump or one that is not in the tank, feel free to rivet it.
There may come a day when you would need fuel tank access for other reasons (fuel sock replacement, fuel level sender R&R, etc.), so there are some wildcards to consider.
15+ years since my Mark 3 build, I'll offer you that having access to the driver-side footbox (from the top) is far more important!
HTH,
Will
FFR MK III picked up 9/24/05 Roller 9/28/05 First start & go-cart 11/28/05 red w/white stripes, PC Chassis, heat/defrost, FFR 15's, pwr footbox vents, radio delete, dual quad 427W, 4 link w/3.27's, Koni's all around, Gen 1 rag top, snapless tonneau, Herb's door panels, NRC rear discs, Breeze head rest, ********** emblems, Paint by Gino's in Rowley, MA
2011 ffcars.com calendar Cover Car Yes, that's me in the avatar with Dave Smith in front of my roadster at the '06 FFR Open House!
-
Post Thanks / Like - 1 Thanks, 1 Likes
-
25th Anniversary #9772
Originally Posted by
luvaz
To the OP,
It depends.
If you have an in-tank fuel pump, you may want to be able to access it from time to time for replacement (ask me how I know). If you have a lift, disregard it.
If you have a mechanical fuel pump or one that is not in the tank, feel free to rivet it.
There may come a day when you would need fuel tank access for other reasons (fuel sock replacement, fuel level sender R&R, etc.), so there are some wildcards to consider.
15+ years since my Mark 3 build, I'll offer you that having access to the driver-side footbox (from the top) is far more important!
HTH,
Will
yup in tank pump, I got a piano hinge from McMaster and will configure a door and secure with rivnuts, if nothing else it will be an easy access panel
-
Senior Member
Originally Posted by
toadster
yup in tank pump, I got a piano hinge from McMaster and will configure a door and secure with rivnuts, if nothing else it will be an easy access panel
you might not need the hinge. I just used rivnuts to make the panel removable. I didn't carpet over the access panels and have the aluminum over the cut outs. I initially tried brushing the panels, but ended up spraying them black with truck bed liner.
-
Post Thanks / Like - 0 Thanks, 1 Likes
-
25th Anniversary #9772
Originally Posted by
egchewy79
you might not need the hinge. I just used rivnuts to make the panel removable. I didn't carpet over the access panels and have the aluminum over the cut outs. I initially tried brushing the panels, but ended up spraying them black with truck bed liner.
thanks! I got a 12" aluminum hinge from mcmaster/carr for ~$2.50 if it works - great, if not, just a simple nutsert job then
-
Senior Member
Bumping up an old thread.
Question (trying to see if I am missing something): on the rare occasion where you need to change your in-tank pump or sender, can't you just raise the car and drop the trunk?
I am not suggesting people shouldn't have access, I want to make sure I am not missing something obvious.
Complete novice who doesn't know what he's doing.
MKIV with BPE 347 & TKX. IRS. A crap ton of mods.
Build thread
-
Not a waxer
Originally Posted by
zee
Bumping up an old thread.
Question (trying to see if I am missing something): on the rare occasion where you need to change your in-tank pump or sender, can't you just raise the car and drop the trunk?
I am not suggesting people shouldn't have access, I want to make sure I am not missing something obvious.
I'm betting that what you really mean is "drop the tank", not "drop the trunk". Yes, you can but if you need to get at the sender or pump/pickup it's just much easier to remove an access panel, be it by drilling out rivets or removing screws run into rivnuts, than it is to remove the tank. No need to raise the car, drain the tank (because Murphy's law says that the need to remove the tank will always happen when it's full ), disconnect the fill tube and fuel lines, etc.
Jeff
-
Post Thanks / Like - 0 Thanks, 2 Likes
-
25th Anniversary #9772
Originally Posted by
zee
Bumping up an old thread.
Question (trying to see if I am missing something): on the rare occasion where you need to change your in-tank pump or sender, can't you just raise the car and drop the trunk?
I am not suggesting people shouldn't have access, I want to make sure I am not missing something obvious.
yep that's doable! but depending on how full the tank is, it can be a total PITA
in my case it's a 26 gallon tank so I opted for the above the tank route
IMG_3520.jpg
-
Senior Member
Totally makes sense, I knew I was missing something :-).
Complete novice who doesn't know what he's doing.
MKIV with BPE 347 & TKX. IRS. A crap ton of mods.
Build thread
-
When I had to replace my tank, I was able to use my lift to raise the car after disconnecting the fuel lines, sender, and fill tube. I then rolled a cart under the car and lowered the car until the tank was just touching the cart. I then just removed the strap bolts and raised the car leaving the tank on the cart. It would have been a lot more work without the lift.
Dave
-
On a roll
Originally Posted by
zee
Bumping up an old thread.
Question (trying to see if I am missing something): on the rare occasion where you need to change your in-tank pump or sender, can't you just raise the car and drop the trunk?
I am not suggesting people shouldn't have access, I want to make sure I am not missing something obvious.
The responses you have received so far are pretty interesting; please allow me to offer mine: Yes, I had to replace my in-tank pump. Twice.
I have an access panel in my trunk so I can get at the tank/hanger. I did not move the tank. I did not mess with the trunk. It was "relatively" easy to pull the pump/hanger through the access panel. There is no way I would want to mess with the tank, full or empty. It's enough trouble dealing with it as it is. I can't imagine making this more difficult. If you don't have an access panel, please make one. You can thank me later.
Mk IV Roadster - #8650 - delivered 7-17-2015 - first start 7-28-2018 - first go-kart 10-13-2018 - licensed and on the road 9-9-19: body/paint completed 3-17-2020.
Complete kit / 2015 Coyote / TKO600 / IRS / Wilwood brakes / Mid-Shift mod / Power Steering / Heater and Seat Heaters / RT turn signal / Breeze radiator shroud and mount
-
Post Thanks / Like - 1 Thanks, 1 Likes
zee thanked for this post
zee liked this post