Intercity

Visit our community sponsor

Thanks Thanks:  0
Likes Likes:  0
Page 9 of 9 FirstFirst ... 789
Results 321 to 349 of 349

Thread: svl 818

  1. #321
    Senior Member flynntuna's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    San Diego Ca 92106
    Posts
    1,831
    Post Thanks / Like
    Congrats, with the mild winter were having, it should make for some great driving days.

  2. #322
    Senior Member svanlare's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    San Jose, CA
    Posts
    536
    Post Thanks / Like
    We have had great weather for driving around!

    First thing I did this weekend is open up the transmission to see if I couldn't get 5th gear sorted out. A mechanic friend said it is usually synchro (in which case I'll be getting another transmission) or the nut at the end of the gear train. Since that was work I did converting to 2wd, I'm hoping that was it. So I opened everything up, torqued it to 120 Nm and re-bent the end to secure it. It was about an 8th of a turn further than when I did it the first time, so I did have it loose.

    The project went quicker than I expected and everything is now back together, but I need to add oil. I didn't have any oil to refill the transmission, so I'll run and get that in the morning and give the car a nice run and see how 5th gear works.

    -Steve

  3. #323
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    QC, Canada
    Posts
    5,168
    Post Thanks / Like
    Hey Steve, so how's that 5th gear running?
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 GT3582R ~400whp/wtq+
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017

    Bulid time, including registration 3283.5h in 148 work week time and 3.5 years elapsed

  4. #324
    Senior Member svanlare's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    San Jose, CA
    Posts
    536
    Post Thanks / Like
    Progress has been slow.

    Wayne had a similar MT5 transmission, and so I purchased that and got the shipment. I have had time to clean it, paint it, and add new seals. I've done most of the dismantling of the back of the car and have everything but the axels disconnected from the transmission. Once i get that one off the car, I'll have to move the shift fork, electrical connectors, Speedo, and re-do the 2wd conversion. While I would love to finish this weekend, but I'm behind getting a car ready for the next Lemons race, so that will take priority until the end of the month.

    I would REALLY like to the get transmission in and the car running again in time for FF's show in Huntington Beach this year. The body is still exactly as it came from factory five and i've done very little work on the interior, but I would still love to get the down to so-cal and back. So push come to shove, I might have to take a day off from work to get there.


    -Steve

  5. #325
    Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Atlanta, GA
    Posts
    87
    Post Thanks / Like
    Blog Entries
    2
    How'd you prep the transmission for paint? I degreased mine with foaming degreaser but I'd say it's a long way from being clean enough to be paintable.

  6. #326
    Senior Member svanlare's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    San Jose, CA
    Posts
    536
    Post Thanks / Like
    It wasn't too bad to clean up. I did a better job on this one than the last one. This transmission was cleaner than the last, more "crusty" than greasy. So here is the before picture. First step was I wire brushed it, then I used a little simple green to clean up some more of the oil, and then dried and went at it with a smaller wire brush. After that I sprayed a metal prep (I no longer know the name as the label is gone), dried and then painted. I wasn't looking for perfection and there is plenty of dirt in the corners that I just sprayed over :-)

    -Steve

  7. #327
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Location
    Hamersville, Ohio
    Posts
    254
    Post Thanks / Like
    Do you have plans for your old transmission?

  8. #328

    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Scottsdale, AZ
    Posts
    2,054
    Post Thanks / Like
    Steve, for incentive to get that tranny in and running, I'll buy your first 3 beers at HB. Get to work!
    818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities.
    Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).

  9. #329
    Senior Member svanlare's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    San Jose, CA
    Posts
    536
    Post Thanks / Like
    @Lance, I have no plans for the transmission.

    I've never rebuilt one before, so I have this thought that if I store it in the garage, some day after the body and interior of the 818 is done, I'll open it up and see if I figure out what was wrong. Of course, it may just sit in the garage until I move and have to deal with it...
    -Steve

  10. #330
    Senior Member svanlare's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    San Jose, CA
    Posts
    536
    Post Thanks / Like
    @Pete, I'm making progress and hoping to take you up on it.

    I'll make no progress this week as we are racing at Sears this weekend, but after that I should be able to get it running again. I managed to remove the old one, and get the new one partially installed this weekend. I couldn't figure out how to get the axels out without mostly disassembling the rear suspension, so I'll be redoing the alignment too. I have 1 half back together, now I need to get the other half, then convert to 2wd, hook the rest up of the bits, bolt on the rear, fill it up and drive south to meet you for a beer. It will definitely won't be a show car as it will be a still be a work in progress, but hoping to be ready for a road trip.
    -Steve

  11. #331
    Senior Member svanlare's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    San Jose, CA
    Posts
    536
    Post Thanks / Like
    OK, the rear suspension is hung again. Being able to put the car back on its feet feels like a good step. Once I convert to 2wd, torque and seal the transmission I should be able to sneak in a little time each night after work hooking things back up. Then alignment, fill and test!
    -Steve

  12. #332
    Senior Member svanlare's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    San Jose, CA
    Posts
    536
    Post Thanks / Like
    Last weekend I missed out on a ski trip, but I did get to work in the garage! So I finished putting the car back together, did the alignment again, filled it up transmission with plenty of fluid (after talking to Wayne, too little is way worse that too much as 5th gear is the one that will get starved for oil). So after a quick run to warm it up and make sure nothing fell off, I went for a 30 mile freeway trip to spend some quality time in 5th gear. Success! The new transmission is working just fine.

    With that done, I sent in my money to Factory Five for a slot at Huntington Beach. It will definitely be in the "under construction" category, but I'm committed to making it down now. I'm hoping there will be a group from NorCal this year I can tag along with for the drive down.

    The only problem I'm still trying to sort out is the car gets pretty hot before the thermostat opens. It seems like the heat from the turbo makes it to the expansion tank which starts filling the overflow tank (and overflowing that tank). But once the thermostat opens and hot water runs to the radiator and back, everything stabilizes and temps stay nice and steady from there. I have a small aluminum tank that I think I'll swap out for a larger (or stock) overflow and see if that contains everything through the warm-up phase.

    If I can solve that, then I might get rid of the Cleco's holding the interior panels in place and make the car generally more presentable. If not, it is a go-kart with the body tacked in place, but I'm still up for the road trip!
    -Steve

  13. #333
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Location
    Hamersville, Ohio
    Posts
    254
    Post Thanks / Like
    Steve, the reason the temps spike is that Subaru put the thermostat on the inlet side of the engine. All other thermostats I know of are placed on the outlet side of the engine cooling circuit, which means that as the thermostat opens, hot fluid in the engine is purged until cooler fluid reaches the bimetallic thermostat spring, then closing the thermostat. On the subie, as the thermostat opens, cool fluid is immediately brought into the engine, thereby closing the thermostat before the engine has a chance to purge the hot fluid on to the radiator. Once the incoming fluid is warmed up, the thermostat can remain open, but it is this delay that causes the hot fluid to overflow your catch can.
    To remedy this situation, I have chosen to run without a thermostat, but instead use a temp sensor to monitor fluid and operate an in-line electric water pump, which will modulate flow to control engine temps. I've also removed the impeller inside my stock water pump to facilitate fluid flow through the system. I'm also using a dual pass radiator and Evans waterless coolant.
    Subaru used to have their thermostat on the exit side, but have since changed to the present setup. It probably provides quicker warm-up times in the cold climates.

  14. #334
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Cincinnati OH
    Posts
    3,391
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by svanlare View Post
    The only problem I'm still trying to sort out is the car gets pretty hot before the thermostat opens. It seems like the heat from the turbo makes it to the expansion tank which starts filling the overflow tank (and overflowing that tank). But once the thermostat opens and hot water runs to the radiator and back, everything stabilizes and temps stay nice and steady from there. I have a small aluminum tank that I think I'll swap out for a larger (or stock) overflow and see if that contains everything through the warm-up phase.
    Steve,
    Sound like you have some air in the system causing you temp surge.
    Do you have the heater tubes looped together?

    Mine is working well and doesn't need any exotic bleeding procedure.
    1. I have to bleed line coming from the crossover tube. (wayne's mod) I have an 1/8" pill in this line to let air flow but restrict water.
    2. I have a 1/4" hose from the bleed port on the radiator to degas tank to automatically bleed the radiator.
    Works great.

    Attached is a 4th gear chart at NCM. Temp hold at 190.
    Bob

    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Bob_n_Cincy; 04-04-2018 at 09:11 AM.
    818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
    My Son Michael's Turbo ICE Build X22 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rts-818S-Build
    My Electric Supercar Build X21 (on hold until winter) http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-Build-Thread

  15. #335
    Senior Member svanlare's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    San Jose, CA
    Posts
    536
    Post Thanks / Like
    Lance and Bob, thanks for the ideas. I've made Waynes suggested mod and I copied from someone the idea of hose up front with a ball valve to fill the fluids.

    Once the car gets to temp, it stays very consistently between 185/190, so this is really only an issue with warmup. I've been very temped to pull the thermostat, I may do that as a test.

    Not sure I'm ready to move to an electric pump and controller, but we did that on one of the race cars for a bit before we swapped engines again (we have now stuffed a 2007 350Z motor into our 94 300Z body). I think all the pumps and parts I used are still floating around. No way that will all be done by the end of the month, but now you have me thinking.
    -Steve

  16. #336
    Senior Member svanlare's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    San Jose, CA
    Posts
    536
    Post Thanks / Like
    1 weeks to go and I sure wish I was working on cosmetics instead of plumbing…

    Last weekend I pulled the thermostat, drilled a 1/8th hole in the plate so that there would be some water flowing no matter what. I put it all back together, and took a test drive. It seemed to help the warm-up phase as the car didn’t overheat and then settle down. The bad news was the thermostat housing was leaking. Cranked the bolts down a little more and that seemed to solve that. So then I went on a 30 mile freeway drive. The warmup phase is indeed better but the car runs at about 220-225 as I roll down the freeway, so I drove slow and made the temps stayed just below 220. When I got home, the front was leaking too. Argh!

    I assumed that I had air in the system and that the bleed didn’t go as well as I hoped. I have done Wayne’s mod for the rear, but the front driver side has hard tubes that go up and over the steering rack leaving a high spot there. So I ordered some various tubing and a bleed valve so that I could do something about the high spot this weekend.

    With a handful of various elbows, joiners, a straight tube with a tap I cut off some of the hard tube I had, and added a bleed valve to the high spot up front. Everything went together pretty smooth and the fill worked easily as well. I ran the car up to temp in the garage and it seemed good. So I let it cool off and then went for a drive. The warmup didn’t peak out, but once I got onto the freeway I had the same problem of the temp running up past 220. At least this time I didn’t have to slow down to have them stabilize but still warmer than I would like.

    So back to the garage, and this time I decided to pull the thermostat, and just deal with getting this dialed in right after the Huntington Beach show. After I put it back together, of course the thermostat leaked, but at least the front isn’t. There must be some trick to the subaru thermostat that I don’t get as I every time i put it back together it leaks and I have to crank it down harder to get it to seal. So I cranked harder (I am worried about snaping the bolts off, but they held) and I think I have it. I ran the car around the block pretty hard, and temps stayed below 190. I will try the freeway tomorrow and hopefully get a long run in so that I feel confident I can make the 400 mile drive to LA next weekend.

    A 1/8th hole was probably too small, but it did make a difference. While I have the thermostat out, I’ll probably test it and then maybe drill two more holes.

    I also like Lance’s idea of using an electric pump, but that will have to wait a bit before I attempt it.

    If this works, I think I’ll pop some rivets in the car to get rid of some of the cleco’s holding it together and build something to attach a phone charger to and a cubby to to hold my wallet and phone. That will be the maximum extent of body work and interior that I think I’ll be able to accomplish before the trip.

    Bob, is your radiator still at the rear of the car? I do believe I had air in the system, but I think I finally have a way to get it all removed during the fill. I don’t have a restrictor in the hose on Wayne’s mod, and that line does get very hot quickly.
    -Steve

  17. #337
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Cincinnati OH
    Posts
    3,391
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by svanlare View Post
    Bob, is your radiator still at the rear of the car?
    No, could not get enough air through it in the rear. Switched to the front.

    https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...l=1#post225632

    Bob
    818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
    My Son Michael's Turbo ICE Build X22 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rts-818S-Build
    My Electric Supercar Build X21 (on hold until winter) http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-Build-Thread

  18. #338

    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Scottsdale, AZ
    Posts
    2,054
    Post Thanks / Like
    Steve, the thermostat should have a rubber gasket around the outside edge. The FSM shows it separate but the OE thermostat comes with it. Could your thermostat housing leak be from a missing or damaged rubber gasket? The thermostat toggle goes at the top.

    I've had some coolant problems recently that turned out to be a leaking cap on the coolant reservoir - the small tank on the top of the engine, not the expansion tank. So, check that cap for wear.

    To bleed the system I've previously followed the suggestions here for multiple heat/cool cycles, but this time I followed the FSM and it's much easier & faster. Fill coolant reservoir, replace cap, start the engine and rev 5 or 6 times to <3K RPM within 40 seconds, kill engine, fill reservoir . . . repeat until the reservoir stays full. This worked for me and was much faster than waiting for the engine to reach full temp each time.

    As incentive, I remember saying I'll buy the first 3 beers at HB11. Also, see David's thread about the Best Under Construction Award!
    818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities.
    Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).

  19. #339
    Sgt.Gator's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Bend, Oregon
    Posts
    1,126
    Post Thanks / Like
    This may have nothing to do with your issues, but whenever I see perplexing temp problems I always start at the radiator caps. Subaru uses two different caps that unfortunately both fit and accidentally get swapped all the time. So the first check is if the right cap is on the expansion tank and on the radiator. This has been noted in some other threads on this forum but it's easy to overlook.

    A copy of a post I made on the LGT forum.:

    Note the Expansion Tank (up by the turbo) uses a different cap from the Radiator! Because they look alike and fit alike it is common to reverse them or replace a defective one with the wrong cap. There is a difference!
    If you get them wrong it can lead to weird cooling issues that will drive you insane trying to track down what the problem is. If you have cooling issues the first thing to do is check you have the right cap in the right place.

    Be wary of aftermarket performance radiator caps with a higher bypass.

    For example Mishimoto states clearly that you do not use the 1.3 bar cap supplied with their performance radiator for the radiator!

    Here's what they say:
    "Included 1.3 bar radiator cap raises the boiling point of engine coolant to provide a safer and more efficient system"

    But then the fine print!
    "Caution
    The provided Mishimoto radiator cap should replace the stock cap located on the expansion tank. The stock cap attached to the radiator should be installed on the Mishimoto Performance Aluminum Radiator. The Mishimoto radiator cap is a two way valve, while the stock radiator cap is a single valve. Due to the difference in construction, the Mishimoto cap cannot be used on the radiator. If the Mishimoto cap is fit on the radiator, overheating may occur."

    And to confuse you they show the supplied high pressure cap ON the radiator!



    https://www.mishimoto.com/subaru-wrx...diator-01.html


    This is what the LGT Expansion Tank OEM Cap looks like. It has "Ears" and marked 108 KPA. Part Number: 45137AE00B. You can also use the WRX/STI cap: 45137AE003




    This is the Radiator Cap. No "Ears" and marked 137 KPA: Part Number 45137FE002



    You can remember them because Subaru wants you to fill-flush-service thru the expansion tank so that cap has Ears. They don't want you to use the Radiator cap so it has no ears.
    Last edited by Sgt.Gator; 04-23-2018 at 01:38 AM.
    "Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement"
    Owner: Colonel Red Racing
    eBAy Store: http://stores.ebay.com/colonelredracing
    818R ICSCC SPM and HPDE Rental at Oregon Raceway Park
    2005 Subaru STI Race Car ICSCC ST and SPM, NASA ST3
    Palatov DP4 - ICSCC & SCCA Sports Racer and HPDE Rental at Oregon Raceway Park

  20. #340
    Senior Member svanlare's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    San Jose, CA
    Posts
    536
    Post Thanks / Like
    Trying hard to take you up on those beers Peet. I'd really prefer to drive the car as opposed to trailering it, so one more day to get ready. As for the under-construction award, if it goes for the most zip-ties and cleco's I have a good shot.

    Bob, I missed that you moved it back. I have to catch up on your threads a ways it seems.

    Thanks Gator, I'll be double checking the caps this morning!
    -Steve

  21. #341
    Senior Member svanlare's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    San Jose, CA
    Posts
    536
    Post Thanks / Like
    I do have the right caps on the car, so that probably isn't the issue.

    With the thermostat out, the car ran 60 miles between 170 and 180. Going to call that good enough for this weekend and so I'm going to make the drive south and then try fully solving this when I get back.

    I'll do a nut and bolt check tomorrow night and for now, just trying to decide now which tools should go in a bag just in case :-)
    -Steve

  22. #342
    Senior Member svanlare's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    San Jose, CA
    Posts
    536
    Post Thanks / Like
    We all tanked up before the drive down the coast. I'm running in good company and looking forward to a nice drive.

    -Steve

  23. #343
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Bowling Green, KY
    Posts
    1,128
    Post Thanks / Like
    Fun

  24. #344
    Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Atlanta, GA
    Posts
    87
    Post Thanks / Like
    Blog Entries
    2
    If I drove by a gas station with those cars there, I would've stopped for gas even if my tank was full haha

  25. #345
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Posts
    698
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by lsfourwheeler View Post
    If I drove by a gas station with those cars there, I would've stopped for gas even if my tank was full haha
    I was just thinking exactly that, and you beat me to it.

  26. #346
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    QC, Canada
    Posts
    5,168
    Post Thanks / Like
    3 different FFR models at the same gas station... that'll never happen here! You're lucky!
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 GT3582R ~400whp/wtq+
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017

    Bulid time, including registration 3283.5h in 148 work week time and 3.5 years elapsed

  27. #347
    Senior Member svanlare's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    San Jose, CA
    Posts
    536
    Post Thanks / Like
    It got even better! I ran with some great company. I started the trip with ~500 miles on the car and added another 900+. That was an absolute blast, just wish there were a few more 818's at the show.

    -Steve

  28. #348
    Senior Member svanlare's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    San Jose, CA
    Posts
    536
    Post Thanks / Like
    The car ran great with the thermostat out. For most of the drive it was a little cool ~160 degrees, and in LA stop and go traffic is stayed between 190 and 205. I think I'll get a new one (since they are cheap), drill a few more holes than the one hole I did last time, and try that next.

    Great first trip, I have a punch list of things I want to do to the car now, but I'm REALLY happy to have put some serious miles on the car and with how well it did. I'll try to get some more photos pulled together soon.

    As for the show, came in second to Pete's Coupe, but that isn't a surprise, he has built a stunning car.
    -Steve

  29. #349
    Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Location
    Fenton MI
    Posts
    93
    Post Thanks / Like
    Amazing photo!
    Factory Five 818c #456

Page 9 of 9 FirstFirst ... 789

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

Levy Racing

Visit our community sponsor