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Thread: Nuisance Build Thread

  1. #41
    Member nuisance's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wleehendrick View Post
    Looks nice. I have the original fiberglass console, which I'll probably ditch for something similar. You don't, by chance, happen to have saved your template?
    wlee -- I dug the template out of the trash...I will try to use Sketchup or something to do better, but this gives an idea of the shapes. My fiberglass original resides in the county landfill.

    template1.jpg

    Brian, there is room there, but I didn't put it there...no particular reason. Is that bad?
    John Huft -- #154 R

  2. #42
    Senior Member wleehendrick's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nuisance View Post
    wlee -- I dug the template out of the trash...I will try to use Sketchup or something to do better, but this gives an idea of the shapes. My fiberglass original resides in the county landfill.

    template1.jpg
    Awesome... I wasn't asking for you to go to that much effort, but if you don't mind doing so and sharing your design, it would be greatly appreciated!

  3. #43
    Senior Member Tamra's Avatar
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    Wow, considering you got your donor and your 818 in May... you're making pretty fast progress. We got our donor in May and spent all summer just working on it and cleaning up parts.

  4. #44
    Member nuisance's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tamra View Post
    Wow, considering you got your donor and your 818 in May... you're making pretty fast progress. We got our donor in May and spent all summer just working on it and cleaning up parts.
    Thanks Tamra, its nice to be retired, and though I have many irons in the fire, I have been able to spend quite a few hours on this project.
    John Huft -- #154 R

  5. #45
    Member nuisance's Avatar
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    My Advise

    Is, if you live on a dirt road, wait until you can haul the car to pavement to try out the go cart routine. I have gravel in my ears, shoes, and every possible nook and cranny of the car.

    But, it was fun!

    first drive.jpg
    John Huft -- #154 R

  6. #46
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nuisance View Post
    Is, if you live on a dirt road, wait until you can haul the car to pavement to try out the go cart routine. I have gravel in my ears, shoes, and every possible nook and cranny of the car.

    But, it was fun!

    first drive.jpg
    Great picture,
    Do you mind sharing you wheel and tire information.
    Thanks
    Bob
    818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
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  7. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by nuisance View Post
    Is, if you live on a dirt road, wait until you can haul the car to pavement to try out the go cart routine. I have gravel in my ears, shoes, and every possible nook and cranny of the car.

    But, it was fun!

    first drive.jpg
    Awesome!
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  8. #48
    Member nuisance's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob_n_Cincy View Post
    Great picture,
    Do you mind sharing you wheel and tire information.
    Thanks
    Bob
    All are Hoosier A6
    Front - 225-40 R17 on 17x8 +40 offset
    Rear - 275-35 R17 on 17x9 + 40 offset

    I have 10mm spacers on the rear.

    None of them actually fit.

    In the front, the tires are spec'd to be 23.8" in diameter, but they hit the front fenders quite badly. I made 1.5" spacers for the shocks to stop that for now, but eventually I'll have to flair the fenders. I think this is what we saw on factoryfive's video of the red race car when the front tires smoked under heavy braking.

    In the rear, the spacers make it so the tires hit the fenders and the frame at the same time. So, I made 1" spacers for the shocks there.

    Long term, I will have to do the fiberglass work, but right now I would like to autocross and track day the car a little.
    John Huft -- #154 R

  9. #49
    Member nuisance's Avatar
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    Back to body work

    So, back to itchy fiberglass...

    Here are pics of the engine cover, and the way I cut it , and added to the rear quarters so that it would open easily.

    I didn't like the gap under the roll bar tube, so

    gap.jpg

    Then, the engine cover swings up on hinges

    eng cover.jpg

    And finally, just showing off a minimal interior

    int.jpg

    There is just a little gravel here and there for character.
    John Huft -- #154 R

  10. #50
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    Nice. Pretty work!

  11. #51
    Member nuisance's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wleehendrick View Post
    Awesome... I wasn't asking for you to go to that much effort, but if you don't mind doing so and sharing your design, it would be greatly appreciated!
    If you PM me an email address, I will send you a PDF
    John Huft -- #154 R

  12. #52
    fasterer and furiouser longislandwrx's Avatar
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    I didn't think that front aluminum attached to the front assembly, I believe it attaches to the bottom aluminum. I could be wrong though.
    A well stocked beverage fridge is the key to any successful project.

  13. #53
    Member nuisance's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by longislandwrx View Post
    I didn't think that front aluminum attached to the front assembly, I believe it attaches to the bottom aluminum. I could be wrong though.
    hmmm, not sure what you mean.
    John Huft -- #154 R

  14. #54
    Member nuisance's Avatar
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    Finally, done for now

    Here she is, on the scales. 1872 lbs. I will have to rename it the model 851. One seat and one gallon of gas.

    on the scales.jpg

    See Jerome's signature as far as being done goes.
    John Huft -- #154 R

  15. #55
    Mechie3's Avatar
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    Painted or wrapped? How much body sanding/filling did you do?
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  16. #56
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    Wow congrats! I wasn't so sure about the baby blue frame but it all comes together with the body on. Great job!

  17. #57
    Tazio Nuvolari wannabe Scargo's Avatar
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    Very nice! Please share your corner balance numbers.

    I see others are discussing finish. It talked to a guy about that this weekend. He suggested that for racing I use Plastidip paint.I'm wondering if that would be heavy finish?
    Last edited by Scargo; 12-01-2014 at 04:06 PM.

  18. #58
    Senior Member FFRSpec72's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nuisance View Post
    Here she is, on the scales. 1872 lbs. I will have to rename it the model 851. One seat and one gallon of gas.
    Looks fantastic, great job, nice final weight also, is that paint or wrap on the body ?
    Last edited by FFRSpec72; 12-01-2014 at 04:46 PM.
    Tony Nadalin
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  19. #59
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    One pic!! One pic!! Are you kidding me?!?

    She's too pretty to be treated so crudely. We respectfully request more. Lots.

    And I love the door treatment - THAT is how you do it (or at least that's the direction I was also thinking; good confirmation of concept). Very nice indeed.

    Best,
    -j
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  20. #60
    Senior Member wleehendrick's Avatar
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    Love the Gulf Oil livery!

  21. #61
    Member nuisance's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mechie3 View Post
    Painted or wrapped? How much body sanding/filling did you do?
    It is paint. It is Sherwin Williams single stage, and I think I have about $800 in all the materials. I did what seemed like a lot of filling and sanding, but really, I think I got a pretty good set of body panels. I did have to build up the corners. The panels are not all that flat, but I left them that way. I can sympathize with those (like Honalulu hana ) who were looking for OEM, but this is pretty good for a race car. I still need to do some wet sanding and buffing.

    I don't know anything about Plastidip.

    Corner balance -- I was able to get very close to equal cross weights. Front to rear about 42/58.

    Thanks all! More pics coming.
    John Huft -- #154 R

  22. #62
    Member nuisance's Avatar
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    Here are a few new pics. Going to the tuner next week, track soon I hope.

    front low.jpgfront quarter.jpgrear view.jpglid open.jpg
    John Huft -- #154 R

  23. #63
    Senior Member Tamra's Avatar
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    That car definitely makes a statement. Great job! I bet you can't wait to really drive it.
    Tamra
    Building 818SR #297 picked up 10/25/14 with Andrew (xxguitarist)
    First start 12/21/14, First "drive" 1/17/15
    First Dyno at EFI Logics 3/7/15- 310whp at 15psi for break in, full spool by ~3500rpm!
    First autocross 3/29/15
    1st Registered 818 in Connecticut 7/24/2015. 9 months - 1 day from kit pickup!

  24. #64
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    Let me know when you track it, I want to come watch.

  25. #65
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    I never realized how awesome a job you did on that car.
    And your deck lid shocks are making me jealous!!!!! Which post mentions details about what they are and what you did to make them fit?
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  26. #66
    Member nuisance's Avatar
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    Trip to the dyno!

    First, thanks for the nice comments. Frank, I will put together a post on the engine cover system.

    So yesterday I drug the lil' monster down for a tune

    Dyno results (Mustang dyno at PSI Performance in Tucson) 296 RWHP. 252 ft-lbs torque.

    On E85
    internally stock 2.0L (he offers to build me one like Tamra and XXXguitarist ... you guys must have made a good choice!)
    Stock headers with Perrin up pipe
    16G turbo
    home made exhaust (minimal muffler)
    homemade short ram intake
    Very Cool Wayne's AWIC (115*F after numerous pulls at 70 degrees ambient)

    The DAM showed the ecu was not completely happy...pulling some timing at times. The knock sensor showed 0, injector duty cycles around 70%, 17.7 psi. The tuner was unsure why the DAM problem...any ideas?

    It runs and sounds really good, and the tuner feels it is safe to run, so as soon as I get my datalogging working I will take it out and see what happens.

    on dyno.jpg
    John Huft -- #154 R

  27. #67
    Member nuisance's Avatar
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    Well, back on page 3 again... It is time to end this build thread (I guess I'm in maintenance mode now). On Sunday I ran my first autocross. I was very tentative as a driver, and didn't do well, but it was a ton of fun. After the first couple of runs I took a second off my time each run. I could easily break the tires loose in second gear unless I was careful. Brake bias needs some work. The Boyd fuel tank seemed to be fuel starving at 1/3 full, adding fuel fixed it.

    The good news is that the data logger showed no change in oil pressure during a run. This with a Killer B pan and pickup, but no Accusump or dry sump.

    IMG_6757-X3.jpg

    Wrap up: specs--
    '02 WRX donor
    aluminum LCAs
    Front - 225-40 R17 on 17x8 +40 offset
    Rear - 275-35 R17 on 17x9 + 40 offset
    16G turbo
    ACT lightweight flywheel and street clutch
    Very Cool Wayne's AWIC kit
    iWire harness
    stock brakes
    Perrin up pipe, stock headers
    homemade intake


    Overall, I feel that at the price, the Factory Five kit is an OK deal. The quality level is abysmal, but with enough work a builder can make up for that and build a decent kit car. It will never be any more than a kit car however. I do believe that the most used expression around Factory Five is "good enough".

    Best of luck to you all, thanks for all the tips and support. You feel like family!

    John
    John Huft -- #154 R

  28. #68
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    Nice Build John

  29. #69
    Senior Member AZPete's Avatar
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    John, nicely done. Do you have a photo of the bottom (body side) of your front hood hinges? I have the photo you posted of the hinges where you attached them to the hood but I can't figure out the bottom part. Thanks! Again, nice work!
    818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities. Sold 10/19 with 5,800 miles.
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  30. #70
    Senior Member Tamra's Avatar
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    Any videos from autox?

    The car looks great.
    Tamra
    Building 818SR #297 picked up 10/25/14 with Andrew (xxguitarist)
    First start 12/21/14, First "drive" 1/17/15
    First Dyno at EFI Logics 3/7/15- 310whp at 15psi for break in, full spool by ~3500rpm!
    First autocross 3/29/15
    1st Registered 818 in Connecticut 7/24/2015. 9 months - 1 day from kit pickup!

  31. #71
    Member nuisance's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AZPete View Post
    John, nicely done. Do you have a photo of the bottom (body side) of your front hood hinges? I have the photo you posted of the hinges where you attached them to the hood but I can't figure out the bottom part. Thanks! Again, nice work!
    Thanks Pete. Here is the pic I have, I'm not exactly clear on what you're asking. The bottom of the hinges bolt onto the wing support (see post 28)

    hinge detail.jpg

    Thank you Tamra too. My camera battery died halfway through, but I will look and try to get some sort of video up.
    John Huft -- #154 R

  32. #72
    Senior Member Brando's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nuisance View Post
    The Boyd fuel tank seemed to be fuel starving at 1/3 full, adding fuel fixed it.
    I am having the same issue. Kind of sketchy having sudden oversteer as your throttle cuts out cornering hard in 4th. I found that if I start a 20 min session with a 1/2 tank i'm going to have issues.

    Sick build. I was curious about your front fender rub. Are you still limiting the shock travel with spacers? My fender rubbing went away with -3* camber.
    Best of luck with your future track days.

  33. #73
    Tazio Nuvolari wannabe Scargo's Avatar
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    Interesting that you have no openings cut in the body other than the hood. Autocrossing with a KB pan should be fine. I think it's only when you see ten seconds or more of high Gs that you might see oil starvation.
    Nice build. Good luck!

  34. #74
    Member nuisance's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brando View Post
    I am having the same issue. Kind of sketchy having sudden oversteer as your throttle cuts out cornering hard in 4th. I found that if I start a 20 min session with a 1/2 tank i'm going to have issues.

    Sick build. I was curious about your front fender rub. Are you still limiting the shock travel with spacers? My fender rubbing went away with -3* camber.
    Best of luck with your future track days.
    Yes, I still have the blocks on the shock shafts. Even with 3* camber, when I took the springs off and swung the wheels, they hit the fender hard. Without the blocks, the only thing saving it is the stiff shocks, and the potential is there, as we saw in Factory Five's last race video.
    John Huft -- #154 R

  35. #75
    Senior Member FFRSpec72's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nuisance View Post
    So, back to itchy fiberglass...

    Here are pics of the engine cover, and the way I cut it , and added to the rear quarters so that it would open easily.
    We were playing with the lids last night and came to same conclusion that it needed to be cut and then Mechie3 pointed out you had already been through this, so what is holding down the cut piece around the roll cage down tube? Is that just bonded to the fender now ? Also what is holding down the front most lid (the one you added hinges) ?
    Last edited by FFRSpec72; 02-25-2015 at 01:49 PM.
    Tony Nadalin
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    FFR MkII Challenge Car, Spec Racer, Street Legal, SCCA, ICSCC and NASA Racing
    818R Build in progress

  36. #76

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    Do you mind filling us in on what adhesive you used to attach the hinge to the fiberglass?

  37. #77
    Member nuisance's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FFRSpec72 View Post
    We were playing with the lids last night and came to same conclusion that it needed to be cut and then Mechie3 pointed out you had already been through this, so what is holding down the cut piece around the roll cage down tube? Is that just bonded to the fender now ? Also what is holding down the front most lid (the one you added hinges) ?
    Yes, it is just bonded to the fender. The front of the engine cover is held on with a piece of piano hinge (stainless, with a 3/16" pin, from Aircraft Spruce).

    Kurk, I use West System six-ten adhesive for all of this
    John Huft -- #154 R

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