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Thread: Which FFR provided Rivets to use where?

  1. #1
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Which FFR provided Rivets to use where?

    In our rivets box we got 2 types of 1/8 rivets, 1/8 - 1/4 and 1/8 - 1/2. 200 in one bag and 300 in the other, can't recall which one has 200 vs 300.

    In the build manual when riveting the front FW it says "use rivets". Yeah ok but which ones? The 1/8 - 1/2 or 1/8 - 1/4?

    How can we determine which rivet type to use where or when?


    tnx
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  2. #2
    Senior Member 68GT500MAN's Avatar
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    When connection thinner materials (aluminum to aluminum) I always used the shorter ones. The longer ones were used when connecting aluminum to the steel tubing.
    Doug

  3. #3
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    So far I've been mostly using the 1/8D - 1/4L rivets on the firewall and aluminum panels. In a few cases, the panel and the frame had a larger gap, that's when I had to use the 1/2L rivets . There's some guessing and checking as you go but drilling out rivets isn't as bad as I thought.

  4. #4
    K3LAG's Avatar
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    I used the shorter ones on aluminum to aluminum and when attaching aluminum to smaller tubes. The wall thickness of the larger tubes is such that I thought it better to use the longer ones for them.

    Larry

  5. #5
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    If I miss a few and use long ones where I should/could use short ones, I won't have a shortage of long rivets?
    I mean I don't know if FFR counted the number of rivets required for the kit so that if I don't do things right and use the wrong ones I would be missing them when I'll need them for real.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  6. #6
    Senior Member billjr212's Avatar
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    I'm not sure how exact they were on the 818 quantity, but on the Mk3, I ended up buying at least 100+ extras of various sizes by the end. (except the fatties - they were pretty accurate on the count there). May want to scout out your favorite forum vendors or local hardware store to find good pricing on some extras because you may need them at the end of the day and it's a major annoyance to run out in the middle of a project. Maybe scoop up some of the fancy colored ones if you like them for an area where they will be visible and you'll give yourself some cushion that way.

  7. #7
    cobra Handler skullandbones's Avatar
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    I ended up with 3 boxes of left over rivets of varying sizes. I found that I just wanted certain lengths for certain cases. I also found some that I liked better because they installed smoother than the kit ones. Since I was a sail maker and rigger, it was only natural to look at each application rather critically. After all, those rivets are what's holding the thing together. Don't scrimp on rivets and don't use one if it seems like the wrong rivet for the application. You will start getting the hang of it as you get deeper into the build.

    Good luck,

    WEK.
    FFR MkIII 302 (ATK), EFI 75mm TB with custom box plenum chamber, 24# injectors, 4 tube BBK ceramic, cold air sys, alum flywheel, crane roller rockers, T5, Wilwood pedals, custom five link with Watt's link, 4 rotors, coil overs, power steering with Heidt valve, alum FFR rad, driver's crash bar mod, mini dead pedal mod, quick release steering wheel hub #6046

  8. #8
    Tazio Nuvolari wannabe Scargo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by skullandbones View Post
    ...I also found some that I liked better because they installed smoother than the kit ones. Since I was a sail maker and rigger, it was only natural to look at each application rather critically. After all, those rivets are what's holding the thing together. Don't scrimp on rivets and don't use one if it seems like the wrong rivet for the application.... WEK.
    Would you elaborate on brands, sources, etc. for high quality pop rivets? As to what's in my kit, I haven't even opened a box yet, but in the past I've experienced some junk that I sure don't want on my 818R. Same applies for nut-serts. A good brand for them?

  9. #9
    cobra Handler skullandbones's Avatar
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    I don't have a favorite brand. I go by how they look and how well they pull up and pop in the tool. You can tell by just installing a couple in a test panel like two pieces of aluminum put together. I remember getting some from Ace and some from Best Hardware (local so I get to inspect them closely). Then I got an assorted shrink pack that had various length shanks. I like to have enough meat on the shank to pull the head down solid. That's mainly what I was referring to when I said quality. Sorry for the generic use of quality. I know some like certain brand names and other favorites. I plan to remove some of the rivets in my build but it is mostly for looks and replace them with stainless steel ones. Rivnuts used very little but got them at Ace as well. Good luck, WEK.
    FFR MkIII 302 (ATK), EFI 75mm TB with custom box plenum chamber, 24# injectors, 4 tube BBK ceramic, cold air sys, alum flywheel, crane roller rockers, T5, Wilwood pedals, custom five link with Watt's link, 4 rotors, coil overs, power steering with Heidt valve, alum FFR rad, driver's crash bar mod, mini dead pedal mod, quick release steering wheel hub #6046

  10. #10
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    How can we determine which rivet type to use where or when?
    Great question! I was just getting ready to install the first piece of sheet metal last night and started staring at the bags of rivets and wondering the same thing. Which rivets go where!?? I guess I'll start with the longer ones for aluminum to steel and shorter ones for aluminum to aluminum as a general guideline.

    Good thing I was so lost... while I was searching for info about the rivet lengths, I found the tip to install the pedal box bracket before the aluminum panels (on newer chassis only).

  11. #11
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    I measured the combined thickness or the thin aluminum and a frame tube wall and it's in the clamp range of the smaller rivets. That fact combined with the fact that the kit contains more short rivets than anything else led me to use short rivets for aluminum-to-aluminum and for one-piece-of-aluminum-to-frame connections. All of the places where a rivet goes through two pieces of aluminum and a frame tube, I used the long rivets. I'll use the long ones for the brake line tabs too.

  12. #12
    Senior Member 68GT500MAN's Avatar
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    Another thing to remember, everyone spaces their rivets differently, so the quantity you receive with the kit may or may not be enough to finish. I found the quality of rivets in the kit quite good compared to some I have bought elsewhere.
    Doug

  13. #13
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrprgrmr View Post
    Good thing I was so lost... while I was searching for info about the rivet lengths, I found the tip to install the pedal box bracket before the aluminum panels (on newer chassis only).
    Yeah, but in my case the pedal box metal panel is kinked about 1/4in to the front, from driver to passenger's side. Which makes the alu panel in the center very very hard to fit. I ended up with a forced-in and stretched panel installed, with a gap between the pedal box mount and the alu panel. One gap that will squeeze once I install whatever goes there with bolts and nuts, but still, there is a torsion and will always be. I cut the panel a bit to make a relief point of some sort.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  14. #14
    Tazio Nuvolari wannabe Scargo's Avatar
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    I found Cherry rivets. They seems to be aerospace/aircraft grade rivets.
    I was wondering if anyone has tried an alternative method of mounting non-structural panels in their cars?
    I was thinking that I might use rivets or sheetmetal screws on a few spots for positioning and use a structural adhesive for the adhering and sealing. Something like a LockTite product for outdoor use. I can see that the biggest challenge might be holding the sheets in place, under pressure, (if required) while the adhesive sets.

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