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Thread: Harley's 818S

  1. #81
    Harley818's Avatar
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    OK time for Brake lines.

    I wanted to set up the proportional valve out of the way, so I picked a spot between the brake and Clutch master cylinders.
    My goal is to keep the battery and open area in the front as uncluttered as possible as a possible mod later to add fuel tank in the front like Xusia and a couple others.
    Or..... its an area to put some storage.

    In any case, here's how it ended up.

    DSCF4691.jpgDSCF4692.jpgDSCF4693.jpgDSCF4694.jpg

    Then routing down through the lower access area - you can also see the clutch line is not terminated yet. I am going to terminate and finish with a flex line from there.
    DSCF4695.jpgDSCF4704.jpg

    and routing down the side - and split to two sides. I ran the line under the motor along the frame behind the engine mount supports to the other side.
    DSCF4696.jpgDSCF4697.jpgDSCF4698.jpg

    and to the back flex connection
    DSCF4700.jpg
    Last edited by Harley818; 11-20-2014 at 10:53 PM.

  2. #82
    Harley818's Avatar
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    and to the other side
    DSCF4701.jpg

    Here is a picture of the master cylinder and proportional valve from above.
    DSCF4706.jpg

    I started to tie the lines down, but haven't finished yet......

    In the meantime, got the ceramic coated, titanium tape, and silicone sprayed manifolds bolted in, and intercooler back on.
    Looks like a mean BEAST!
    DSCF4711.jpg
    Last edited by Harley818; 11-22-2014 at 02:14 AM.

  3. #83
    Senior Member AZPete's Avatar
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    2 photos in your 2nd post not working.
    Harley, if you haven't looked at your post in the Brake Line thread, see my photo of the alum panel at the left front before you add fluid.
    818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities. Sold 10/19 with 5,800 miles.
    Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).

  4. #84
    Harley818's Avatar
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    Hi Pete,
    Fixed the pictures.

    I'll go check your picture of the front left..... but what are you saying i need to look out for?

    Edit.... OK, I see what you are saying... need to look out for the aluminum wheel wells... and where they install right where I go through the access way.
    Thanks for the heads up.
    Last edited by Harley818; 11-22-2014 at 02:41 AM.

  5. #85
    Harley818's Avatar
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    OK, been busy, just not posting for a week.
    I guess you guys are all having your Turkey this week.

    Ordered my wheels and tires. XXR530's and Maaxis Z1's from Online tires.com (same as americaswheels.com). Includes mounting, balancing and wheel lugs and locks.
    Also ordered some seats, but I'll have to wait to see them before I report on them. Took a gamble, but the price was right.

    Here are some pics of the installed exhaust with ceramic coating and titanium wrap with silicone spray.
    DSCF4714.jpgDSCF4715.jpg

    I thought some of you may be interested in clearance at the bottom. My STI pan and oil filter are the only items that are below the frame.
    DSCF4716.jpg

    Here is a shot of the throttle cable penetration through the firewall. The cable isn't long enough to go around. Has to go through and up the center tunnel and its barely long enough.
    DSCF4722.jpg

    I made a bracket to mount the coolant fill reservoir, but its not as nice as Mechies. No CNC....I had to use an angle grinder and bench grinder to get it to look decent.
    DSCF4723.jpg

  6. #86
    Harley818's Avatar
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    I'm making a custom shifter bracket for the end of the shifter rod.
    Basically, I had a friend weld a solid steel block into the FFR bracket, then drill for the rod and securing pin, then I will drill and tap for the attachment ball.
    This should provide an additional 1.5 to 2 inches of clearance to the back fiberglass (I hope - haven't put the body on yet).
    Original bracket location, and new one.
    DSCF4742.jpgDSCF4743.jpgDSCF4744.jpg

    And, last but not least, I took out the wiring again. I had put it away for a couple months after starting earlier. Decided to take out the ABS, cruise control and a couple other items I originally left in.
    Dieting, dieting, dieting. Decided to just take the plunge and I'm cutting wires and lengthening or re-arranging where its a mess.
    I just threw a piece of plywood on top of the rollbar so I could get the rough position as I'm dieting the harness. Seems to work quite well and i can work at waist height.
    DSCF4737.jpgDSCF4739.jpg

    I didn't like the routing of the cooling I had done first, so I decided to re-do it and move the side tubes more towards the front. I like it alot better now.
    Old way,
    DSCF4731.jpg
    New look
    DSCF4733.jpgDSCF4734.jpgDSCF4735.jpg
    Attached Images Attached Images

  7. #87
    Harley818's Avatar
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    I am almost ready to start it up.... goal is to fire it up before new years.....

    Here are some overall progress shots.

    DSCF4718.jpgDSCF4719.jpgDSCF4720.jpgDSCF4721.jpgDSCF4725.jpgDSCF4726.jpgDSCF4727.jpgDSCF4728.jpgDSCF4730.jpgDSCF4732.jpg

  8. #88
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    The axles going into the transmission do not look fully locked in. I could be wrong, but I'd give them a good shove in toward the transmission case on each side to see if they lock in any farther. Apart from that, looking good

  9. #89
    Senior Member RM1SepEx's Avatar
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    Your shifter mod is similar to mine, I cut off and flipped the stock bracket around 180 degrees, welded it back on. I then had to slide the cable brackets forward 1.5 inches (the transaxle bolt spacing, tons of room to the bodywork and screen. The FFR red car has the shifter bracket grinding vs the mesh

    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...-Thread/page14 post 543
    Dan

    818S #17 Picked up 8/1/13 First start 11/1/13 Go Kart 3/28/14

  10. #90
    Harley818's Avatar
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    good catch Bompus. You guys are GOOD!. I don't have the pins in yet. My donor came with the shafts removed, so I need to buy new ones......

  11. #91
    818 builder metalmaker12's Avatar
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    Looking nice man!!
    818S frame #13 Jdm version 8 ej207

  12. #92
    Harley818's Avatar
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    Wow, life gets in the way and now my thread is down to page 3 of the Builds.....
    Mexico for a week of R&R, then a busy work week, and in between......head down into the wiring......

    Just to show you that not all is standing still, I received my ebay seats. I gambled on ebay.....Advertized as JDM Recaro, made in China I am sure. Quality is not bad, they look good, and the fit is great. Comes with slider mounts. $258 for the pair with red stitching. They fit well and feel perfect in the hips and side bolsters. Who knows how long they will last. I'm happy with them for the price and they will get me going. If I don't like them I can sell them and buy a better pair.

    I laid out a piece of plywood above the rollbar, marked out where the routing is going, and am cutting/lengthening the wires a bundle at a time, only if needed to get where I want them to go. Looks like the computer will be above the fuel tank with the fuel pump controller, with the fuse panel and relays at the front of the tunnel near the dash or under the dash area.
    I had to lengthen some of the front lights, one of the rad fans, and a few misc wires here and there if they got tight when I stretched everything to where I wanted.
    I will have to get a longer battery cable as the firewall extends the required length.
    I will also have to lengthen the alternator wires, and the wire from the relay panel to the battery.
    Otherwise, most fits although a bit tight, it should be OK.

    DSCF4747.jpgDSCF4745.jpg
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Harley818; 12-18-2014 at 01:24 AM.

  13. #93
    Harley818's Avatar
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    OK, Santa came early...... New Wheels and tires.
    XXR 530's.
    Front 17 x 8.25 with Maaxis 235/40-17
    Rear 18 x 8.75 with Maaxis 255/35-18

    photo 1.JPGphoto 2.JPGphoto 3.JPGphoto 1-1.JPGphoto 3-1.JPG

    I am really happy with the look, the colour and the fit.

    Here is how they fit with the rear clearances - about 1/8 in clearance to the trailing link. Lots of clearance everywhere else.
    DSCF4748.jpgDSCF4749.jpgDSCF4750.jpg
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Harley818; 12-28-2014 at 01:28 AM.

  14. #94
    Harley818's Avatar
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    Here is the fit on the fronts:

    There is about a 1/4 in clearance to the front corner of the firewall. Exactly what the calculations show......


    DSCF4751.jpgDSCF4752.jpgDSCF4753.jpgDSCF4754.jpgDSCF4755.jpg


    Back to the wiring.....

    I laid out the pattern of the tunnel and firewalls on a piece of plywood, then placed the plywood above the car resting on the rollbar and a support on the front.
    I wanted to lay it all out, make the modifications to length where needed, then drop it in place.

    Here is the rear layout. ECM & fuel controller in the center, split down the left side with 3 connectors to the engine, and 3 to the transmission/rear O2, and split to the right side for 3 connections to the intake airflow, front O2 and turbo temp sensor (turbo temp sensor? can't remember what this one is for). That leaves one set of connections for the rear lights. I rolled up the wires and bagged them so they would be easy to keep track of.
    DSCF4756.jpgDSCF4758.jpg

    Then a couple relays that can go anywhere located on the left side:
    DSCF4759.jpg

    Front of the harness separated into instrument cluster, combination switch, ignition switch on the left side, with fuse block and relays on the right side.
    Front lights and rad fan wires are lengthed bagged and located at the front.
    DSCF4760.jpgDSCF4761.jpg

    I pulled the plywood out to the side and then carefully moved the harness down into the car. Worked like a charm.
    Now I have started to pull the wires into position hook them up, and figuring out final position and mounting for the relays, fuse blocks etc.

  15. #95
    Harley818's Avatar
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    This give you the view of what the front harness looks like all spread out.
    DSCF4762.jpg

    I'll post more pictures of the hook-ups and routing.
    Looks like a couple more days off before new years......

  16. #96
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    I like the purple lug nuts! Gives a little touch of distinction, well thought.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  17. #97
    Harley818's Avatar
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    Update on wiring.

    I finished the wiring to the engine and routed the wires through the firewall to the central tunnel. Looks like lots of room now that I have it organized.
    I still have to finish the wiring to the back lights, but I'm not worried about that.
    I also have to run the main battery/starter wire.
    I bolted the ECM to the firewall, and will also bolt the fuel pump controller.
    DSCF4774.jpgDSCF4775.jpg

    I also have the wiring to the front pretty much organized. I'm going to locate the fusebox just near the top of the tunnel at the front, and the relay panel just below it. I'll add an access panel so I can reach it easily. I'm building a mount for them, but this is what it looks like now.
    DSCF4776.jpgDSCF4777.jpg

    I was worried how I would fit in the shifter, so I worked on that as well.

    I did the longislandwrx mod, lowering it into the tunnel.
    I used long bolts up from the bottom and coupler nuts to adjust the height to where I wanted it, then used shorter bolts with coupler nuts from the top.
    So I used 3/8 button head bolts x 3.5 in long with washers and a coupler nut to secure it to the bottom of the FFR shifter.
    Then I added coupler nuts to the top of the 3.5 in bolts, threading them on only 1/2 way.
    I drilled through the tunnel steel tube so that I could use 3/8 x 1 inch long socket head cap screws recessed in from the top and into the top of the coupler nuts.
    Its really secure and I can adjust it to any height I want by just cutting the bolts shorter if I wanted. I wanted flexibility to ensure I had enough clearance for the wiring.
    In fact, I need to adjust it up a bit at the front still so it is level.
    As it is, its OK and the top of the shifter is about 1 inch above tunnel height.
    Its located as far back as the tunnel vertical tubes will allow - and its position is great for my shift position.

    DSCF4769.jpgDSCF4770.jpgDSCF4771.jpgDSCF4773.jpg
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Harley818; 01-05-2015 at 01:21 AM.

  18. #98
    Harley818's Avatar
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    First Start!!!!

    Filled up the tranny (3.8 liters of uncle scotty's mix), added the coolant (2.5 gals so far), and checked everything over.
    No leaks so far.

    Filled the gastank with about 25 liters of gas hoping it wouldn't leak. Held my breath and it was OK.

    Hooked up the battery, turned it on..... instrument panel came one but not start.
    First try..... clutch pedal not grounded.
    Second try...... ECM and fuel pump/controller not grounded
    Third try..... Started!!!!!
    Awesome!

    But..... fuel leaking all over the top of the tank.....these damn white connectors are leaking.....I tried replacing with another one.... just don't seal on the FFR supplied pump inlet/outlet bracket.

    I tried taking the white connector off and tightening the clamp, but it doesn't have a decent barb on the fitting, so it still doesn't seal.
    What are the rest of you doing? I think I'll abandon it...... anyone got better ideas.

  19. #99
    Senior Member svanlare's Avatar
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    Congrats on the start, that is a huge accomplishment! I have no idea what to suggest about the fuel lines, not that far along yet and haven't yet researched fuel options.
    -Steve

  20. #100
    Harley818's Avatar
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    Yah, when you spend so much time organizing, cleaning, replacing, and taking things apart, taking the engine down to the last bolt, and then putting it all back together.... getting it ready...... anticipating whether it will start...... and it doesn't start.......then you go into diagnostic mode... what could it be... electric, fuel, etc...... work on it a bit more..... and then it fires......I'm still on a high!!!!

    My wife just walked in and says the garage smells like gas!...... I don't care!. It started. I'll deal with that tomorrow!

  21. #101
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    Congratulation on your first start! Great milestone.

  22. #102
    Senior Member Tamra's Avatar
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    Congrats on the first start! I know when we started ours, we could not decide whether it was a feeling of relief or excitement or both.

    Ours did not leak (yet - knock on wood), so no advice here. Our fuel line were pretty tight over them (we did not use the FFR fuel line - it seemed too big.) Plus, the white FFR fitting on our fuel filter did not seem to fit right, so we did not use it there. We used some smaller line that we already had plus clamps, and it seemed to fit snug.
    Tamra
    Building 818SR #297 picked up 10/25/14 with Andrew (xxguitarist)
    First start 12/21/14, First "drive" 1/17/15
    First Dyno at EFI Logics 3/7/15- 310whp at 15psi for break in, full spool by ~3500rpm!
    First autocross 3/29/15
    1st Registered 818 in Connecticut 7/24/2015. 9 months - 1 day from kit pickup!

  23. #103
    Moonlight Performance
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    Congrats on the milestone!

  24. #104
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Harley818 View Post
    But..... fuel leaking all over the top of the tank.....these damn white connectors are leaking.....I tried replacing with another one.... just don't seal on the FFR supplied pump inlet/outlet bracket.

    I tried taking the white connector off and tightening the clamp, but it doesn't have a decent barb on the fitting, so it still doesn't seal.
    What are the rest of you doing? I think I'll abandon it...... anyone got better ideas.
    Congrats on the start! Let's keep it living.

    About that fuel leak, maybe my posts towards the end of my thread may give you ideas.

    When you say "white connectors", do you mean leaking around the chrome cover or just the connector itself?
    Sorry if there are pix, I don't see them from work.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  25. #105
    Senior Member xxguitarist's Avatar
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    Here's what we used for fuel line, it was purchased for the semi-parallel mod that we did, but I think it's going from the tank to the filter too.
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/110986661871

    Gates 5/16" EFI hose. Note that the Injection stuff is pressure rated.

  26. #106
    Harley818's Avatar
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    I was in a hurry last night so I wasn't clear on what leaked.

    The gas is squirting out between the white FFR supplied quick connect and the chrome fuel tube that extends up from the FFR supplied fuel pump housing.
    Hose connection to white quick connect is good.

    Maybe I'll have to do what Tamra says. just buy a smaller diameter fuel line with good clamps over the chrome fuel line.

  27. #107
    Senior Member xxguitarist's Avatar
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    Ah. Tamra and I did use the white connectors on the tank end. We thought maybe it was leaking hose to white fitting. We haven't had any leaks from the fitting to the chrome fuel supply line (though I was surprised that it sealed, for how easily it installed)

    You could try some Parker O-lube, and inspect if you've damaged the o-ring inside.

    We didn't use the white connectors on the fuel filter end.

  28. #108
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Harley to answer both here and what you posted on my thread, I VERY SURPRISINGLY did not have any leak, not even vapor leak, on both sides of the white QC fitting. And all good on the black one as well. They did not seem to fit tight so I was expecting a huge blow up when I started the pump, but no, nothing and it ran for a good 10-12mins totalling the 2-3 times I used it. I suspect you just got a defect part. I kept FFR hoses.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  29. #109
    Harley818's Avatar
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    Gas squirting out from between the white connector and the chrome outlet fuel line.??????
    I tried two different white FFR connectors and they both leak when pressurized.

    Should I try the 3rd white connector I received in my kit from FFR??? I guess I have it, may as well if you guys are all OK.
    Just might end up with gas all over my tank again.........
    I'll let you know what happens.
    Harley
    Bought 2002 Donor Jan 2014
    First Start Jan 18, 2015
    First Drive Feb 14, 2015

  30. #110
    Harley818's Avatar
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    xxguitarist,

    First, guitar is my favorite instrument when I listen to music and I have lots of music that my wife makes me listen to in the car. "Car music" she calls it. The more wailing the better. So you have my vote there for your name.

    Second. I was interested in a parallel fuel line mod earlier on this year, but abandoned it when I couldn't find good reliable info. I'm not a subaru guy (although I just re-built my 2.0 with most mods from the simplifying the EJ thread from Longislandwrx and it started first try). What did you do and can you share it?

    Third. I used the white connector on the tank only since that was FFR supplied, but used the fuel line with hose clamp connections elsewhere and on fuel filter like you did.

    Last. I just clued into the fact that you and Tamra are both racing miatas..... but one is coming and one is going... which is which? Who is coming, who is going? lol
    I see now from Tamras signature that you are building a car together.
    Harley
    Bought 2002 Donor Jan 2014
    First Start Jan 18, 2015
    First Drive Feb 14, 2015

  31. #111
    Senior Member xxguitarist's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Harley818 View Post
    xxguitarist,

    First, guitar is my favorite instrument when I listen to music and I have lots of music that my wife makes me listen to in the car. "Car music" she calls it. The more wailing the better. So you have my vote there for your name.

    Second. I was interested in a parallel fuel line mod earlier on this year, but abandoned it when I couldn't find good reliable info. I'm not a subaru guy (although I just re-built my 2.0 with most mods from the simplifying the EJ thread from Longislandwrx and it started first try). What did you do and can you share it?

    Third. I used the white connector on the tank only since that was FFR supplied, but used the fuel line with hose clamp connections elsewhere and on fuel filter like you did.

    Last. I just clued into the fact that you and Tamra are both racing miatas..... but one is coming and one is going... which is which? Who is coming, who is going? lol
    I see now from Tamras signature that you are building a car together.
    Harley,
    I wish I played more still. Been busy with things, building a car and whatnot :-)

    We used the above mentioned fuel hose to do ours, and added a fuel pressure regulator adapter, and an OEM STi FPR.
    The standard wrx setup has fuel flow in by one injector, past the next, through the hardlines, past the next, past the last, and out through the FPR to return to the tank.
    What we did was throw away the hardlines, run the fuel from the pump to a brass T, to both OEM wrx fuel rails, past one injector on each side, then past the next on each side, then out of the rails (use adapter on one side), up to a T, through the STi FPR, and on to the return.

    The idea is to reduce the chance of uneven pressure at the injectors, from the first to the last. Ours is the much less expensive way to do it.

    Is your gas tank chrome fitting nice and round, and is the white connector going on, past the "bump" of a lip back a bit? Not sure why it's acting up for you.

    Yep! That's Frog, our happy fun easy ES car. I should probably add a signature to reduce confusion!

  32. #112
    Harley818's Avatar
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    thanks Andrew, I'll take another look at it tomorrow.
    I used the stock fuel pressure regulator (the little black round pot) in the return line after the injectors.
    White connector slides on nice, i can feel the extra drag from the orings, then it goes past the bump and holds in place.
    I originally thought it was kind of loose, but the black one is the same and it seals fine.
    I tried two different white connectors..... maybe its the chrome fuel pump tube.
    Harley
    Bought 2002 Donor Jan 2014
    First Start Jan 18, 2015
    First Drive Feb 14, 2015

  33. #113
    Harley818's Avatar
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    OK, looked at it again. the fuel pump chrome pipe looks good - no dents or irregularities. tried a 3rd white connector..... leaks again.
    Then tried with just the 5/16 fuel line clamped on the chrome pipe with two clamps ... still leaks.

    I replaced the subaru fuel pump with a new walbro fuel pump. could it be producing too much pressure? or could the black pressure regulator be faulty and therefore producing too much pressure in the line?
    Last edited by Harley818; 01-25-2015 at 03:07 AM.
    Harley
    Bought 2002 Donor Jan 2014
    First Start Jan 18, 2015
    First Drive Feb 14, 2015

  34. #114
    Tazio Nuvolari wannabe Scargo's Avatar
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    You mentioned "(the little black round pot)". You may be mistaking a fuel pressure damper for the fuel regulator.
    Is this what you think is a regulator?
    32568_primary.jpg
    If so, you will have big pressure! That could be causing your leaks.

  35. #115
    Senior Member xxguitarist's Avatar
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    Yep, a FPR has 3 hose fittings- In, out, and vac source

  36. #116
    Harley818's Avatar
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    OK Scargo and Andrew, Thanks for the help.
    I guess i am running with a fuel pressure damper in-line back to the tank.

    I think if I recall correctly, the 2002 has the fuel pressure regulator right in the hard lines arrangement before it leaves the manifold.
    Then I go through a fuel pressure damper, and back to the tank.

    Today I found my leak. The chrome fitting for the fuel pump that exits the tank was nice and smooth all around.
    I bought some new fuel line - 1/4 in diameter injector line. After connecting it and seeing it still leak, I looked with a magnifying glass while it was leaking.
    After watching really closely, i could see the fuel coming out of a pinhole right on the chrome fitting where it was formed for the ridge that is meant to hold the quick disconnect on.
    fuel lines.JPG
    Must have created the hole when they formed the tube. Thats why all my new hoses and the FFR fitting leaked...... the leak was on the pump side of the ridge.

    Anyways, I cut it off with a hacksaw, sanded it and put on the 5/16 fuel line. No leaks now!!!
    new fuel line.JPG


    I ran the engine till the temp got up to the 2/3 point on the temp guage. Fans didn't come on, and only the radiator line on the passenger side got hot. I thought that with Waynes mod on my water outlet that it would have bled all through. I turned it off and noticed that the water had all been sucked out of the reservoir, and the water in the engine was hot-hot...
    Hopefully not to hot to do anything to the head gaskets!!
    Once it cools I'll check water levels. So far I have put in 2.5 4 liter jugs of premixed subaru coolant (10 liters so far)
    Harley
    Bought 2002 Donor Jan 2014
    First Start Jan 18, 2015
    First Drive Feb 14, 2015

  37. #117
    818 builder metalmaker12's Avatar
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    what radiator do you have, my system took over 3 gallons.
    Fill degas tank and leave cover off it. Un mount radiator mounts leaving all lines and cap installed and pick up higher than degas tank. Coolant should bubble out of degas tank.

    Than use the yellow funnel until thermo opens with degas tank as highest point to further bleed system and you should be good to go bro . Don't keep the funnel on once thermo opens or you will suck in air. Relax, You should be fine as long as temps did not get past 250 .2/3 is like 230 range so you should be ok. It you wanna talk more pm me and I can help ya out.

    Ps fan should have come on. I say fan because the right one is the radiator fan, the left is a/c system. You can tune to run both but let's get yours running first. To test if fan is wired correctly put car in test mode with key on and two green test connectors hooked up. Fan should cycle.
    Last edited by metalmaker12; 01-25-2015 at 10:40 PM.
    818S frame #13 Jdm version 8 ej207

  38. #118
    Senior Member TouchStone's Avatar
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    Is that an aftermarket intake manifold or is it painted?

  39. #119
    Harley818's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by metalmaker12 View Post
    what radiator do you have, my system took over 3 gallons.
    Fill degas tank and leave cover off it. Un mount radiator mounts leaving all lines and cap installed and pick up higher than degas tank. Coolant should bubble out of degas tank.

    Than use the yellow funnel until thermo opens with degas tank as highest point to further bleed system and you should be good to go bro . Don't keep the funnel on once thermo opens or you will suck in air. Relax, You should be fine as long as temps did not get past 250 .2/3 is like 230 range so you should be ok. It you wanna talk more pm me and I can help ya out.

    Ps fan should have come on. I say fan because the right one is the radiator fan, the left is a/c system. You can tune to run both but let's get yours running first. To test if fan is wired correctly put car in test mode with key on and two green test connectors hooked up. Fan should cycle.
    Thanks Chris. I'll try it in the next couple days.
    Its a Mishimoto rad. I guess I have more to go still - I'm not at 3 gal yet.
    I think I need to check the grounds for the fan circuit. When I was doing the wiring diet, I cut all the grounds to make it easier and I haven't checked those lines yet....90% sure they need gnd hooked up. I am surprized the thermostat didn't open though. Waterpump and thermostat are new.

    Touchstone...... its a stock intake, but I sandblasted it and painted it. I also used Zerolift TGV deletes in black phenolic.
    Harley
    Bought 2002 Donor Jan 2014
    First Start Jan 18, 2015
    First Drive Feb 14, 2015

  40. #120
    818 builder metalmaker12's Avatar
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    It did not open because you prob have a large air pocket prior to the thermo. You"ll get it.
    818S frame #13 Jdm version 8 ej207

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