Harley's 818S

[Scargo]

I think you said that you are just running the damper, true? If so I am very concerned about two things. You don't have a regulator and your fuel pressure may be way too high to be safe. You have more of a potential of a leak occurring or even something blowing.
The other is that now you have cut off the ridge on the fuel line. While you do have two clamps, and it may never be an issue, the hose could slide right off. While this was not a fuel line, I give you an example of what can occur. I shortened one of my 2" FMIC pipes and the hose kept blowing off. Now, mind you that this is only 22 pounds of boost, but no matter what I tried (like two clamps) I could not keep the rubber from sliding off. This, because the rolled bead was missing.

[xxguitarist]

Glyn, The 02 has a FPR built into the fuel rail, so it's probably still there.

The lack of the retaining bead would worry me a little also on the fuel line. FFR ought to send you a new one if you explain the situation?

[RM1SepEx]

Scargo, my friend works with aluminum a bunch, key trick:

make a special tool, he uses cheap vice grip pliers, modify the jaws, cut in a notch in one jaw and build up the jaw opposing it, clamp them tight and you can rotate around the pipe and make 3 or 4 nice, consistent bumps that work just like the beaded edge to hold on the tubing.

[Harley818]

Thanks for the input guys
Scargo- there is a fuel reg on the 02 fuel rails.
I'll talk to FFR about a replacement. I don't want a fuel problem.
In the meantime I'll try RM's suggestion but I suspect the tube is too small.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Thanks for the input guys
Scargo- there is a fuel reg on the 02 fuel rails.
I'll talk to FFR about a replacement. I don't want a fuel problem.
In the meantime I'll try RM's suggestion but I suspect the tube is too small.

Harley
Did you see my suggestion here
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...l=1#post186508

[RM1SepEx]

Harley, that tip will work for stuff down to the size of the coolant tubes, you can also just lay down some "bumps" with a Mig or Tig to give the same effect as a beaded end. Craig (Mechie) made a smaller bead roller die to do his!

[Scargo]

A flaring tool might be a start. Then, with the tube well-supported, use an inverse tool with a concave taper to knock the edge back down. You dont need much to stop the clamp from sliding.
Sorry about the false alarm about the fuel pump regulator. I believe, in some Subarus, the FPR is near the tank. Allz I know is when I put in a Walbro, and was heading for 300 WHP, EFI Logics (our best known local shop and East Coast dynotuner) said to put in a good FPR... so I did. They set it for 37 PSI and it's been perfect all the way up to ID1000cc injectors and 400 WHP. I also run a Grimmspeed BCS (boost control solenoid).

[Harley818]

A flaring tool might be a start. Then, with the tube well-supported, use an inverse tool with a concave taper to knock the edge back down. You dont need much to stop the clamp from sliding.
Sorry about the false alarm about the fuel pump regulator. I believe, in some Subarus, the FPR is near the tank. Allz I know is when I put in a Walbro, and was heading for 300 WHP, EFI Logics (our best known local shop and East Coast dynotuner) said to put in a good FPR... so I did. They set it for 37 PSI and it's been perfect all the way up to ID1000cc injectors and 400 WHP. I also run a Grimmspeed BCS (boost control solenoid).

Thanks Scargo & Bob.

I'm thinking that using both your suggestions.....Bobs suggestion to use a 5/16 ferrule, but then flare the end to ensure that it doesn't slip off. I'll give it a try.

[Harley818]

Made a little progress today.
Mounted my fuel filter. Made the bracket out of 3/4 in PVC.
fuel lines 2.jpgfuel lines.jpg

I made a similar one for the catch cans that I will mount on the opposite side by the air intake. Pictures when its mounted.

I finished my firewall today after all the electrical and gas lines were run through to the engine area.
firewall2.jpg

And.... continuing the wiring saga..... I mounted my fuse block and relay panel up front. Right at the front of the tunnel
fuse and relay panel.jpg
Just roughed in place, but this will be behind a panel for protection but access when needed.

[Harley818]

Time for an update.
Been picking away at a few things.
Got my catch cans mounted and ready to finalize the hoses. Mounted the wastegate solonoid on the firewall as well.
one for the valve cover breathers.... through the stock intercooler hardlines, through the catch can #1 and to the intake.
Second one from the crankcase vent to the catchcan #2 and to the intake.
DSCF4785.jpg

Still chipping away at the wiring. I'm hesitant to finalize and close it all off till I finish and test it. Otherwise I'll have to open it up again......
Heres the bin of dieted wiring...... one whole rubbermaid. Probably half the wiring.
I just dieted one system at a time, making sure I cut out the right wires.... cutting and re-connecting the others as required. So far so good.
DSCF4782.jpg

Here is my final layout above the fuel tank.
Airflow sensor, first O2 sensor, right e-brake cable and turbo wastegate solonoid on the passenger side through the firewall.
DSCF4789.jpg
3 engine connectors, Starter power wires, and rear lights wiring out the drivers side with the ebrake cable.
You can also see the ECM, fuel controller and a couple relays mounted on the firewall. Everything else is mounted at the front of the shifter tunnel.
DSCF4787.jpgDSCF4790.jpg

I also finished running the wires to the front rad fans and lighting.... more pics tomorrow.

[wallace18]

Looks good! You may want to try test fitting the aluminum pieces that go on top of the chassis for the hump area. In one picture your catch cans look to me to be too close for these to fit. Worth checking out now instead of finding out later IMO. Here is a pic from the K818S that shows the parts I mean.
IMG_0951.JPG

[Harley818]

Thanks for the heads up Wallace.
Looks like it will directly interfere..... so I'll just have to mount it on the side or a bit lower.

[Harley818]

Trying to get the coolant burped.
Did what metalmaker said and unbolted the radiator and stood it up vertical, filled it till it was full, and coming out the coolant tank on the engine. Then I started it up and let it run.

slowly heated up the radiator lines, then the rad till it was too hot to touch, then lines heated up back to the engine. Coolant temp was constant at just less than halfway up the dash gauge. let it run a little longer hoping the fans would come one.......coolant expanded to the top of the overflow tank, but temps remaining constant. I shut it off.
When should the radiator fans come on??

Checked the coolant overflow tank in the morning and it was completely empty.
I guess I'll try again.

When should the fans come on?

[Tamra]

The fans kick on at a little over 200 degrees

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I like Tama's simple answer. I would like it to be able to program when the fan come on. I wonder if open-source or Accesport can do that.
This is the complicated answer out of the 06 Mechanism and function manual.
fan.jpg

[Harley818]

I am planning gauges but haven't bought them yet.
I guess I'll have to get them soon.
Does the ACCESSPORT show temps in degrees?

[Scargo]

Yes, and you can data log. If you can afford them I think the SPA dual digital lit readout gauges are the cat's meow. They are programmable to to perform certain functions, too. They also have analog.
• SELECTABLE BACKLIGHT COLOUR AND BRIGHTNESS• HIGH RESOLUTION MODE, 0.1 PSI, 0.1 DEGREE ETC.• PROGAMMABLE BUTTON OPTION, RECALL+MENU ETC• MAXIMUM VALUES STORED AND RECALLED FROM MEMORY.• INDEPENDENT EXTERNAL & INTERNAL WARNING ALARMS• EXTERNAL WARNINGS FOR LARGE LED’S OR CONTROL RELAYS• PROGRAMMABLE LOW BATTERY WARNING• SELECTABLE AVERAGING FOR PRESSURE.• SELECTABLE UNITS FOR PRESSURE AND TEMPERATURE• SOLID STAINLESS PRESSURE SENSORS MEASURE PRESSURE AND VACUUM.• SPLASH PROOF SENSOR CONNECTORS• EXTENDED TEMPERATURE RANGE FOR HOT AND COLD CONDITIONS• THERMOCOUPLE OPTIONS AVAILABLE
I sent you a PM.

[Harley818]

Things are moving forward, but I'm playing catchup.
Applied the Rhino-liner to the interior for sound deadening.
Building some seat mounting brackets so I can retain my 1 in front to back seat adjustment! lol
Figuring out how to mount my wagon seat belts without bolting through the firewall and undoing them everytime I want access.
Continueing the start/warm-up/check coolant level cycle to make sure its burped properly.
This weekend I'll see if I can hook up the Cobb AP and get some real coolant temp to see why my fans don't come on. Supposedly when I hook it up it will cycle the fans, so maybe that will tell me if I have a problem.
Been looking at gauges......I like the options from Prosport. Any other suggestions I should look at?
I'm thinking similar to Andrew and Tamra...... oil temp and pressure, coolant temp, Boost, and maybe A/F ratio. Not sure about intake temps.... maybe one after the turbo. I haven't made the decision yet whether to go AWIC or not.

[Harley818]

Had a productive day today.

Got the seat brackets mounted and seats ready to bolt in.
Now working on placement of seatbelts. I think I'll put the wagon retractor bolted inside behind the firewall. The FFR location actually interferes with my seat when reclined to my driving position.
I'm going to bolt it to the lower frame cross bar that the upper trailing link bolts to.

Hooked up my Accessport V3, downloaded Stage 1, and fired up the engine.
I had it set up to monitor coolant temps so I could do the final checkout of the rad and fans.
It heated up to about 178 degrees, then stayed constant until the heat made its way to the front and back the other side to the engine. Then it climbed to 205/206F when the fans kicked in. Both came on and rapidly cooled the temp to 178/180F when they shut off again (took like 20-30 seconds).
So now its all burped and working as planned.

While I was running the engine, I also checked the A/F ratio.... steady around 14.5 - 15.
With the Stage 1 downloaded and installed, the engine ran much smoother than previously.
I can probably go to Stage II, but I think I'll just leave it as is till I get it tuned/dyno'd.
Feeling much better now with the way it runs with the Stage I flash.

[Scargo]

With the Cobb intake, TGVs deleted, cat removed and decked heads you needed a re-tune. Don't let it slip your mind that you have stock pistons. I never saw anything in your posts that definitely said that you honed the cylinders or gapped the rings. That worries me. Take it easy for a while.

[Harley818]

Hi Scargo,
Thanks for the comments.

I am going to get it tuned at Rocket Rally. They specialize in subaru rally cars here in Squamish. They have a pretty good reputation. Hopefully line something up in the next 3-4 weeks.

When I rebuilt the engine I did have the cylinders honed and checked the gap on the new rings. They were all within tolerance. I also checked the ring to groove clearances and they were good.
The one thing I probably should have done that I didn't was to check the clearances on the main bearings and connecting rods...... Now that I'm watching Rasmus and Sponagule be so careful, I'm thinking I should have....
Next time. I'm not planning to track it, so maybe I'm OK. And I will take it easy for a while before I flog it.

[Scargo]

Great! So, my misunderstanding of that part of the build. Carry on... Good luck.

[Harley818]

Finished installing seat belts.
Mounted them behind the firewall, with a slot for the belting.
photo 1.JPGphoto 2.JPGphoto 3.JPG
Did the child lock delete on the seat belt mechanism.

Heres a pic of my interior now.
console in place, ready for seats to be bolted in.
The Cobb Accessport is an awesome feature. You can check up on any of the sensors already on the engine using the gauge mode or data aquisition.
photo 4.JPGphoto.JPG

[Harley818]

wow, my pics all rotated when I uploaded them..... never happened before..... Dave Hodgins upgrade???

Try it again.....
photo 1.jpgphoto 2.jpgphoto 3.jpgphoto 4.jpgphoto.jpg


This is the slot I cut for the seatbelt
DSCF4795.jpg

Here is the child lock delete for my 2002 wagon. Slightly different than someone posted before but same technique.
I removed the lower plastic pawl shaped like a J.
DSCF4799.jpgDSCF4800.jpg

[Harley818]

Got started on the body yesterday!
DSCF4810.jpgDSCF4811.jpgDSCF4809.jpg
DSCF4813.jpgDSCF4814.jpgDSCF4816.jpg

Looking like a car!

[Harley818]

Details from my seats intall.

I drilled and tapped 4 button heads up from underneath the pan, then located my brackets on them, with nuts on from above.
Then bolted the seats in.
DSCF4801.jpgDSCF4802.jpg
DSCF4803.jpgDSCF4806.jpgDSCF4807.jpg

Forgot I didn't show a picture of my seatbelt attachment under the firewall.

DSCF4796.jpgDSCF4797.jpg

[tebriel]

Looking great!

[Frank818]

What body issues you ran into so far?

[Harley818]

Body issues?.......Well, for starters, I followed the manual and lined it up to the 5/8 in mark on the front.
Then I went and looked at where the wheel was centered on the rear quarter panel.
The wheel looked like it was slightly forward from the center of the wheelwell. This is a pet peeve of mine when I look at the Factory Five cars...... looks like the wheels aren't centered inthe wheelwells.
So I adjusted the panel until the wheel was centered.
Then I thought that could be the wrong move as the wheel position is determined by the trailing link. I have the adjustable trailing links, which have quite a bit of adjustment front to back.
RMSEPex said a key measurement is 8 inches from the frame to the fiberglass at the back of the opening for the door.
I measured mine, and with the rear side sail all the way to the front, I measured 8 inches. (drop from 5/8" to zero - right flush with the front). so this sounds like it is set up correctly.
However, I decided to go look at a couple threads and started with Aloha818, who did a lot of detail pictures and description on the process. I think I have a good idea of what I need to do.

I plan to resume with the following:
- determine the stock trailing arm length and set it correctly to start.
- bolt the bumper to the side sails, and get the joint fit correct
- set the trunk and top hump panels in place and move the whole assembly to get the best fit for the rollbar-hump fit, trunk to side sail joint alignments, and rear wheel centering as best as possible.
- Then clamp it in place to hold it while I set up the front.
- start on the front by bolting the side fenders to the front bumper to get good joint fit.
- fit the front assembly to the car and placement at the front of the rear side sails.
- place the front hood and see how well it fits. Aloha had to make a lot of adjustment at the front leading edge to the bumper, and I believe he said he had to make cuts in the side fenders to enable him to get the right hood gaps at the fender.
- make any trim cuts to get it to fit & clamp it in place.
- try to get the doors to fit.
- adjust, adjust, adjust to get it to fit.
..........hoping for the best.

anyone have the correct length for the stock trailing arms center to center?

[Frank818]

Tnx for those details!

Mind detailing a little on the 8" measurement? Which part of the fiberglass you measure it from? Is that to have the correct width of the fender panels, where the coolant lines come back into the engine bay?

[Scargo]

I think mine ended up at 7/8". At one time I had everything fitted. Could be that in trying to square up the rear axle and lateral links as best I could that I moved my rear wheel center point back. I did look at the centering of the wheels in the wheel wells and "looks" as well when I did it, but I focused more on centering towards eliminating rubbing at the max top of bump travel.

[tebriel]

Then I went and looked at where the wheel was centered on the rear quarter panel.
The wheel looked like it was slightly forward from the center of the wheelwell. This is a pet peeve of mine when I look at the Factory Five cars...... looks like the wheels aren't centered inthe wheelwells.
?

Ive noticed that many of them look this way and have wondered why. It's kind of goofy looking and one of the few visual flaws I've noticed in the design. But is it design, or is it a fitment issue?

[RM1SepEx]

Tnx for those details!

Mind detailing a little on the 8" measurement? Which part of the fiberglass you measure it from? Is that to have the correct width of the fender panels, where the coolant lines come back into the engine bay?

inside of the 1 1/2 tube to the edge of the fiberglass tip of the door opening, upon more alignment of my new panels and other's measurements from 7 3/4 to 8 inches is typical. It is an easy way to verify that both sides are at the same distance. My rear clip is now in place and to get the door latch brackets to sit flush I ended up with 7 7/8 on this second set of panels, the first set was at 8 inches... And yes there is a bit of variation in all of our builds.

Farther back gives better roll bar fitment though pushing too far back is limited by the latch brackets and the nose, fenders, hood, windshield interface. My front lower sail panels are a bit more than 5/8 back from the corner to get the 7 7/8 measurement. I'd love more roll bar room but can't go farther on the door latch brackets, they run out of adjustment

[Scargo]

Don't mind me; I'm building an unconventional R, but I'd say throw numbers out and do what looks good and lets everything function. The body is just that. A skin that can be massaged and moved around a bit. Even pushed and shoved a bit. I suspect the sequence of assembly makes a difference. Fitting hinges/doors to body and hood to fenders, etc... On mine I cut the door hinge mounts off, but I used spacers and nailed down where the doors are in relation to the sails. Same with hood, fenders and nose. Basically, to fit and look good, they fit together only one way (+/- 1/8" "or so"). Get all your trimming on the hood lip and engine covers done* so they all fit flush to the fenders. Lots of duck tape and clamps and viola, a workable solution. It'll never be perfect.
I forgot cardboard. You may be doing that but I didn't see spacing/shimming cardboard in the pics. Use it to maintain the standard gap between parts. That and lots of duct tape.
* refers to the appx. 1/2" I took off the down-turned lips on the hood to get it to fit flush, height-wise. Makes some difference in how the relationship of the fenders and hood align.

[Harley818]

OK, a bit of an update on the body fitting and I'm looking for some advice.....

I've read a few threads like RMSepex, Metalmakers, mechie, Aloha.....etc. lots of good info.

After playing with the back and front and having a few fitment issues with lots of questions......I started over with this:
- bolted the rear bumper together, and got the alignment set between the sides and the bumper.
- aligned the side sails to the starting position of 5/8 in back from the front frame corner.
- bolted the front sides to the front bumper, off the car - as someone suggested, and aligned it to the corners where the hood connects - then lifted it on.
- I trimmed about 1 inch deep to clear the radiator support.

Result:
-the back of the front sides are about 1 1/2 inches from aligning to the triangle on the front of the side sails.
-the back corners of the hood actually hits the corners of the windshield
- if I align the front of the hood flush with the front of the bumper, it doesn't fit in between the bumper hood opening. I need about another 1/4 inch. The angle of the hood edge is opposite to the angle of the bumper at both sides.

More Adjustments:
- So I moved the rear side sails forward right to the front corner of the frame. The rear hood still fits OK on the rollbar, but now the glass on the bottom of the bumper hits the rear transmission mount. Just have to cut out a bit of glass. Otherwise the rear fits OK.
- I also cut the fiberglass trim at the bottom of the windshield so that the corner of the hood would clear the corners.
- now the front sides are about 1/2 in from landing on the front of the rear side sails at the "triangle mark". Hood seems to fit pretty well except for the front is still too narrow.
I can pull the front and side panels back a bit more, but then the rear hood corners will interfere with the windshield supports.

Questions:
- anyone else have this?
- seems like I have the back as far forward as it will go, and the front as far back as it will go.
- Should I keep going? I can move the back forward a bit more, and the front back a bit more. I only need another 1/2 inch between the two. i would probably just move the front back more.
- do most people put it together with the windshield in place or without the windshield?

Any advice would be helpful before I go crazy with the zip disc.
Harley

Front alignment
DSCF4824.jpgDSCF4825.jpgDSCF4826.jpgDSCF4827.jpgDSCF4828.jpg

Rear alignment
DSCF4830.jpgDSCF4831.jpgDSCF4832.jpgDSCF4833.jpg

[RM1SepEx]

Take off the hood, clearance the returns on the hood a bit

show us how the hood fits vs the lower radiator support, most needed a piece of angle to bridge the gaps in both vertical and horizontal directions

I wish my side sail to engine cover fit as well as yours

I'm guessing the nose needs to go back more. I bolted the rear lower fenders first and pushed toe nose back until I could get it aligned and I trimmed the top radiator support pads to allow moving it around to get everything squared up. 1/16 off at the nose leaves like a 1/2 inch gap at a point 5 feet away!

Every once in a while I call a friend and vent, or have him come over (yesterday with my windshield position) and have a beer and verify my process and approach. you are not really that far away... more brains focused on it is important, fixing an area removed is a PITA

[wallace18]

I mounted the sides and rear bumper first as in the manual. Then the rear hoods, windshield, doors then the front end, fenders and finally front hood. While I had to trim the front hood in the windshield area every thing fit pretty good as is. Since I built 2 of these it seems to have worked for me both times. If the sides are not correct the rest will be off some. The rear hood will have to be trimmed to fit the roll bar. Heck it hits when they duct tape it for delivery. Just remember there will always be cutting and fitting on these kit cars. They are not like an AMT model car for sure. LOL.

[Harley818]

Thanks Dan and Wallace,
Sounds like I'm on the right path..... and there are no quick fixes.
As you say Dan, sometimes just talking it through helps with a strategy or verifying the method.
I'll take some more pictures of the front rad support and post tomorrow.

[Harley818]

So on this last adjustment go-around here is what I did.

1. Measured top of window to rollbar. 33 inches - check That confirms my windshield is in the correct position and angle per the manual. I want to install the FFR soft-top or hardtop.
2. Set the rear sails in place and bolt to the rear bumper. Roughly clamp in position to the 5/8 mark per FFR instructions. This is just a starting point.
3. Assemble the front bumper to the front side fenders and bolt together on the side, and to the fiberglass at the headlight buckets. No headlights installed yet.
4. lift the front assembly into position sitting on the front of the rear side sails. Mark and cut out clearance for the top rad support - you will have to do this to get it to come back far enough. The assembly should sit on the top of the front supports near the headlight, and on the rear supports near the windshield pillars.
5. pull the front assembly back, and pull the rear assembly forward to line up with the front of the rear side sails. This was an iterative process until I got it aligned. Make sure you get the front wheels centered on the wheelwell opening. There is no other adjustment for this location. The rear wheels aren't as important as I have adjustable rear trailing links.
6. Once I had the rear sails in position and front far enough back to line up correctly, i drilled and installed a rivet nut and bolted it together at the rear sail to front fender connection. Now the whole thing is connected but still not bolted in anywhere.
7. Walk around and make sure the rear trunks fit, and the front hood fits. Clamp and tape parts as necessary to see how well it fits.
8. Trunks fit well, but front hood still has a problem right at the window pillar fender area. I cut away a bit more of the window pillar fiberglass and got a better fit, but hood still seems like the tails are too long. They hit the window pillars.
9. Based on what RMSepEx and Mechie had done for the earlier body, I added a 1/2 in spacer under the rear support for the fender. This helped out quite a bit, and is better, but still not ideal at the window pillar area. The rest of the hood seams to the fenders look quite a bit better and aren't squeezing the hood anymore. Maybe I am too fussy, but it has to look good. I will see it if its not.
10. Good enough for tonight.

Front radiator support cut-outs and fit
DSCF4835.jpgDSCF4836.jpg

Fit to the front frame - fiberglass is right up to the 1 x 1 steel and about 2 inches below the opening.
DSCF4837.jpgDSCF4838.jpg

Fit at the window pillar. Might have to trim back the hood returns on the sides.
DSCF4839.jpgDSCF4844.jpg

Fit at the front of the rear sails where the front fenders attach. Note alignment to the front of the frame. 0.0 inches back.
DSCF4840.jpgDSCF4842.jpg

Front fender connection at the side near the headlight. I'll have to work on these connections, the FRP isn't the greatest and is a bit lumpy!
DSCF4846.jpg

Fit at the rear sail to trunk. Trunk not hitting roll bar yet, but i might have to go forward a bit more.
DSCF4841.jpg


I think I will leave this for a couple days and work on setting ride height before I lock it in.

any suggestions are welcome......I see now why you all took your time on the body fitting. lol.

[Harley818]

Other side to rear sail - trunk.
DSCF4843.jpg

Front wheelwell alignment. Not quite centered yet. Might have to go back a bit more.
DSCF4845.jpg