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Thread: Lower Ball joint castle nut installation issue?

  1. #1
    Senior Member Mslone's Avatar
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    Lower Ball joint castle nut installation issue?

    Had a question about the ball joint installation, the instructions say to install spacer then the castle nut, torque and then install the cotter pin.

    However when I install the castle nut on top of the spacer and try to torque the ball joint stud just spins?
    Also if I could torque the castle nut the nut would be below the cotter pin hole in the stud...

    Anyone else run it to this issue?

    Suggestions

    image.jpg

    Thanks,

    Michael

  2. #2
    Member
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    Lower Ball Joint Stud Turns

    Quote Originally Posted by Mslone View Post
    Had a question about the ball joint installation, the instructions say to install spacer then the castle nut, torque and then install the cotter pin.

    However when I install the castle nut on top of the spacer and try to torque the ball joint stud just spins?
    Also if I could torque the castle nut the nut would be below the cotter pin hole in the stud...

    Anyone else run it to this issue?

    Suggestions

    image.jpg

    Thanks,

    Michael
    Michael,

    I had the same issue with my build. The spacer is not going down far enough on the tapered shaft of the ball joint. All you need to do is taper bore your spacer on the bottom side with a Dremmel tool. I also had to install a larger diameter washer below the spacer for the cotter pin to engage with the castle nut. It worked like a charm and I was able to tighten it down. Good luck on trying to torque either the upper or lower castle nut. I tightened mine to what I estimated to be about 75 to 80 ftlbs and lined up the cotter pins.

    Good Luck,
    Bob

  3. #3
    Not a waxer Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    Support the lower control arm with a jack then give the spindle a couple of good solid hammer blows downward. This should seat the stud taper into the spindle enough to allow tightening the nut without it spinning. If you find that the cotter pin hole is above the castle nut slots add a hardened washer or two to the stack-up so that they align.

    Jeff

  4. #4
    Senior Member smithbks's Avatar
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    I too went with the taper on the bottom of the spacer. It doesn't take much with a Dremel - just a little taper without much material removal. After that the installation was real easy.

  5. #5
    Junior Member
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    I went to use the Dremel and found that the spacer was already beveled on one side, so I just flipped it. That helped. I wish the build manual pointed this out since I wasted a bunch of time trying to figure this out including renting a ball joint press and calling Factory Five Tech support. They did not mention that the spacer was not symmetrical. Since it is black, and a minor detail not mentioned in the build manual or the build vide episodes, I missed that. I would suggest either beveling both sides of the spacer or making note of this in both the video and the build manual.

  6. #6
    Tech Support Manager, FFR Tony Zullo's Avatar
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    Hey guys if the stud keeps spinning you may not have the taperd spacer . If not contact FFR and we'll get you a set out ..Thanks!!

  7. #7
    Senior Member smithbks's Avatar
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    The tapered spacer must be new. I know I didn't have one and I received my kit in July. Glad to hear FFR has fixed that for new builds.
    Mk4 #8340, 351w/427, 3-link, Wilwood 4 piston rear brakes, 3.27 gear, TKO600, delivered June 18th, 2014

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