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Thread: Oil issues: Dry Sump, Accusump for road racing?

  1. #41
    Tazio Nuvolari wannabe Scargo's Avatar
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    I may have to play the Devil's Advocate. I will run this by you guys anyway. My experience has been with two STis and three different motors. First a 2011 STi that I started tracking right out of the box. I did headers and put out 300WHP and 360FPT. After several thousand miles of track time on it I totaled it at WGI. That motor was still fine.
    The current car is an '08 STi. It got all the goodies off the '11 and 285x35x18 Hoosiers, Stoptech BBK, aero and Motion Control Suspension two-way gas shocks.
    I have about two seasons on the new shortblock with CP pistons. I broke the original motor when I sucked oil from the catch can back into the intake and broke ring-lands.
    I have had no issues with the Full Race modified Moroso pan, external oil filter, Accusump, oil cooler and thermostatic bypass valve on this motor. I just finished installing a KillerB pan setup on it since I had the motor out to do a close-ratio gearbox and OS Giken diffs.

    I run almost nine quarts of oil in the system (leaving it a half-quart low on the stick) including the two quart Accusump. I run Royal Purple XPR 5-30 or 10-40. I have 85 PSI cold at idle and it runs around 65 hot on the track.
    I run New Jersey Motorsports Park and the "lightbulb" or carousel gives me about eight seconds of high Gs. BTW, I have experienced fuel starvation in the carousel when I didn't run enough gas.
    I calculated Road America's carousel to be more like eleven seconds of high Gs.

    Here's where I question writing off the Accusump. Even if the math is correct, and I base it on 50 GPM@5,000 (average) RPM, then can I do the carousel with or perhaps without the Accusump? I don't know how you can make the assumption that the pickup will starve right away. With the Accusump's volume expended you have to ask where is eight quarts of oil going (with two quarts staying in the other components)? Eight quarts can stay in one head? None comes down? Even with my open breather, with an open oil return, I do not lose significant oil in a track day. In other words it is not getting pumped up and out with blow-by or Gs.
    This is all speculation on my part other than I have not had an engine failure over the course of many hard track days. I have been able to watch my gauges with the video camera at times but no data logging and I have no data about whether or if I have ever lost oil pressure other than the warning light I can set on my SPA gauge, has never come on during cornering (to my knowledge). I have the Accusump to kick in below 30 PSI and I think that's where I have the warning light set to come on. SO, I have no empirical data unless I can find an old video of me in that carousel and watch for a light or dropping pressure. Sometimes I can actually read the gauges in the video. I haven't done that kind of evaluation of my gauges except for at WGI. On review of a video, I did not have any pressure drop in the carousel, but I don't know the Gs.
    This exchange on NASIOC and information about pans and pickups may be of interest to the members here. All Subaru pans and pickups are not created equal. Seems late model STi pans can hold oil better than other Subaru pans. Chris/KillerB shows and contrasts pans in post #36.

    Edit: I do have both head vents in each head utilized and tied together. The larger ports on my W25 heads T's to the center, top case vent in the top of the case. This forms a closed loop that extends well above the case. The other, smaller ports tie to the breather tank and can drain back to the motor via the ex-PCV port (top-rear near the turbo). Blowby pressure cannot build to push oil out.
    Last edited by Scargo; 05-30-2015 at 05:29 AM. Reason: Adding or expanding on previous

  2. #42
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    Devil's advocates are a good thing. I think there's a difference between inquiring into what can work and what one wants to rely upon. So when I write off the Accusump it isn't because I think it won't work, it's because I don't want to rely upon a 2 second buffer (give or take).

    I certainly don't think oil instantly moves out of range for the pickup to do its job, but then again, I don't know how long it takes either or under what level of lateral load the established fixes run out of headroom. So there's an unknown amount of time at an unknown lateral load + 2 seconds security, and then we're in danger. Will this set up be enough to work? Definitely. At least, I'm 100% confident that it will work in a lot of situations. I'm just not confident enough in it to want to rely upon those unknowns, all the more so in light of a history of Subaru owners confronting oil starvation once they're pulling serious lateral loads.

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  3. #43
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    This is my opinion about the Subaru oil pump, I have no facts to back it up.
    The specification say 49.7 US qt per minute. So almost 1 quart per second.
    I think that is it's capability.

    The actual flow is determined by the pressure, viscosity and the bearing clearances.
    If the full flow isn't needed the pressure relief valve allows oil to flow from the high side of the pump back to the low side. I suspect at high RPM's this is always active. The spring at the pump is set at 85 psi. The pressure goes down the further from the pump. like a skinny long garden hose.

    I am going with a 2 qt accusump.
    I think it might supply oil for 10 seconds.(just a guess)
    With 7 quarts of oil in the engine, I can't imagine the bottom of the pan being dry.
    Remember, just my opinion.
    Bob
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  4. #44
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    I'm glad to see someone else had the same thought as me. Everyone seems to assume that the engine is flowing as much oil as the pump will flow, when the reality is probably somewhat or significantly lower. I doubt that Subaru designed the system such that the pump is the limiting factor. Everyone seems to mention the Accusump 2 qt, is there something wrong with their 3 quart model?

  5. #45
    Tazio Nuvolari wannabe Scargo's Avatar
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    I'm not aware of anything wrong with the three quart version. I just looked and I could have fit the longer (16 inch) version in front of my passenger seat.
    Another thing I thought of just now regarding this discussion (which may have been forgotten or shuffled to the back row) is the significant advantage of dry sump when it comes to performance. Vacuum on the engine and little or no parasitic loss from windage.
    The Dailey system is looking better to me all the time. So clean an install.

  6. #46
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    Great discussions in here. I'm planning on running my S during HPDEs w/ a sticky street tire and S aero, therefore I think I'm going to just proceed w/the Killer B stuff and an accusump. If I get more aggressive w/ aero and tire setup I may consider a dry sump system. My budget just doesn't allow for it now so I will need to go w/ the accusump route.

  7. #47
    Senior Member FFRSpec72's Avatar
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    I'm still confused and undecided as I know folks in Subaru based EJ20 planes that are not running dry sumps but just Killer-B pans (not sure if these are special order or what) and they can pull high Gs for long duration.
    Tony Nadalin
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  8. #48
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    Do they pull high lateral Gs? I don't know much about planes, but from what I've seen, they seem to rotate so that they can use lift to execute a turn which results in increased vertical G which would just force the oil into the pan where the pickup is.

  9. #49
    Senior Member FFRSpec72's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Evan78 View Post
    Do they pull high lateral Gs? I don't know much about planes, but from what I've seen, they seem to rotate so that they can use lift to execute a turn which results in increased vertical G which would just force the oil into the pan where the pickup is.
    The guys I know that run the Subaru engines race through gates with the plane on it's side (right and left) and make a high G sweeping turn to next gate.
    Tony Nadalin
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  10. #50
    Senior Member matteo92065's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FFRSpec72 View Post
    I'm still confused and undecided as I know folks in Subaru based EJ20 planes that are not running dry sumps but just Killer-B pans (not sure if these are special order or what) and they can pull high Gs for long duration.
    Planes "bank" or roll when they turn. The normal force is always perpendicular to the motor.
    Am I right?

    edit; thinking about it... In fact their oil system works BETTER the harder they turn. The force of gravity is multiplied and oil rushes to the bottom of motor faster.
    Last edited by matteo92065; 10-23-2014 at 10:37 AM.

  11. #51
    Senior Member wleehendrick's Avatar
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    Yes, fixed-wing aircraft don't experience significant lateral g's, as they bank. Some acrobatic aircraft do experience zero/negative vertical g's in pushovers, but their fuel and oiling systems are specifically designed for it. Those maneuvers are outside the typical performance envelop and most GA craft will stall out if it's attempted.

  12. #52
    Senior Member Rasmus's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scargo View Post
    The Dailey system is looking better to me all the time. So clean an install.
    The Dailey system is super clean looking. But $4,600 USD ($5,200 AU) is steep.
    *EDIT: Was wrong on the price.
    Last edited by Rasmus; 10-23-2014 at 07:10 PM.
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  13. #53
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    The Daily set up is suuuuuppppeeerrr nice and is really great to work with. We had one built for a 427 FE. Worked great, looks fabulous.
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  14. #54
    Senior Member Doowop's Avatar
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    People are starting to get more into this. This is good!
    this was my original reason for this thread. Trying to figure out what would a sufficient way of solving the oil issue without having to use a drysump for sure if there are other solutions that will work. Obviously FFR is not using one, but how much are they really racing the car? We see the track videos, but is there a plan to do a full season, if yes, are they thinking about a dry sump or other oiling system.
    I'm checking with a couple friends in Europe to see if somebody has anything else.
    ALso, I contacted Dailey. Here is Bill Dailey's response:

    Retail is $3100 ish plus shipping

    Attached is an installation drawing for the system.

    Below is my standard disclaimer for it…

    This is not a simple plug and play system. You will have be qualified in custom fabrication work to modify the motor.

    Headers are one of the issues with clearance across the front of the motor to my drive pulley setup.

    There are 2 fittings on the pan that need to be connected to the valve covers so you will need to add -10 fittings to the valve covers. If you can deal with this the rest is easy. I am led to believe it is very difficult to add the -10 fittings on the valve covers in a production car setup. So be for-warned. I can turn you over to some engine builders who have done this.

    The drive setup is a pulley to replace the idler pulley bolted to the water pump. You can either get a new bearing or remove the original and install it into my pulley and bolt it back on the water pump. You will have to bore a hole in the front cover for the pulley to stick thru.

    The only other mod is to remove the stock oil pan and windage tray and remove the stock oil pump gears from the front cover. I find it best to remove the backing plate and leave it off so oil can splash on the front main seal. The front cover can retain all the internal parts for the pressure regulator as they will no longer do anything.

    My kit is the engine portion only. You will need to procure the car installation components, tank, filters and plumbing. I can make some recommendations if you like on what and where to get them. Some of it will depend your actual installation.

    There are some options for feeding oil into the motor. Most use the sandwich style oil filter connection to allow the line to come out of the motor to an oil cooler. If you do this you will simply cap off the outlet fitting which will in turn seal off the hole feeding backwards to the oil pump which is not there anymore. Since the oil pump is already outside of the motor you will connect the pressure outlet from the oil pump to the oil cooler and back to the inlet on the sandwich plate. If use an external remote mounted oil filter you will have to source a cover plate with a -12 inlet fitting for the oil filter pad to feed oil into the motor.

  15. #55
    Senior Member FFRSpec72's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Doowop View Post
    People are starting to get more into this. This is good!
    My R will run a full season in NASA (ST2 Class), ICSCC (SPM or ITE Class) and a few SCCA races, so about 20-30 races, right now I'm un decided what to do all I have right now is STi pan, Killer-B pickup. Killer-B Windage tray.
    Tony Nadalin
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  16. #56
    Senior Member Doowop's Avatar
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    I know, it's tough to decide with the little info that we have for this particular car.
    It's basically spending $1500 on killer B stuff + accusump, or $4000+ on a drysump system, knowing that is the $1500 setup doesn't work well and you discover you actually really need a drysump, you just wasted $1500, a motor, and still have to spend the $4k+.....

  17. #57
    818r center seat biknman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Doowop View Post
    Attached is an installation drawing for the system.

    [/I]
    Can you post the drawing?

    Thanks
    Dave

  18. #58
    818r center seat biknman's Avatar
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    FYI here what I've done :-)

    Attached are price list I got from ARE.

    I'm using their pan and Peterson vacuum control valve (on Valve cover). Using a reconditioned AVAID pump ($150) and Peterson oil tank w/ heater and brackets ($100) and breather tank ($40) I got used from a NASCAR teams of Ebay. Rebuilt the pump (rebuild kit from AVAID $40 with univ blade mounts http://aviaid.com/pdfs/uni_mounts.pdf $45) and made my own brackets. Was going to make my own pan just easier to use the ARE pan. Bought all my -12 -16 AN push lock fittings (+-$100) used from NASCAR teams also. New AN hose and "push-on" clamps from Speedway ($100).

    IMG_20130504_160705.jpg

    1 Optional Components 09-2014-PR.GIF




    Good luck!
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by biknman; 10-23-2014 at 07:00 PM.

  19. #59
    Senior Member Doowop's Avatar
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  20. #60
    Senior Member Doowop's Avatar
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    Hey Biknman, is yours for the 818 or what you are running in your suby? do you have pics of the finished product? is it running and dialed in? cool stuff! thanks

  21. #61
    Tazio Nuvolari wannabe Scargo's Avatar
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    Thanks Michael/Doowop for sharing. I believe that price is a little less than Cosworth's equivalent offering which looks more basic.
    I documented all I could find about dry sumps here, in thread called "Oil pan suggestions". I may copy that over.
    My reading says the Roots style rotors are superior for generating suction, or a vacuum in the case. That's what the Dailey design has.

    I am perplexed about where the oil pump's output goes. They show some pictures on their website but it looks as if the oil filter area just has a Canton (or the like) aluminum filter cartridge in the spot. I don't see a bypass adapter plate there, though there may be one that's hidden from view. The oil's got to go back in somewhere!
    And cool beans, Biknman's here! At least he's got his hands dirty with dry sump. We have communicated in the past.

  22. #62
    Tazio Nuvolari wannabe Scargo's Avatar
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    Collection of Dry Sump systems

    Dry Sump Systems and components

    Cosworth
    in UK: $3,600 for an incomplete setup.
    I believe the Cosworth kit uses a standard fitting, but high volume, Subaru-type, gerotor-style pumps oil pump; meaning the pump is not gutted and blocked off as in other systems. It looks to have a vacuum regulator. Huge bucks for such a minimal design. You don't get hoses, reservoir or breather tank.
    Element Tuning makes a kit which uses an ARE pan and standard parts for $2,499. 2 stage AVIAD, bottom scavenging only and OEM pump for pressure.
    Peterson in Colorado: List of components for use on a Suabru, but no specific kit is listed. Four lobe pumps. Peterson has a good reputation.
    Dailey Engineering in California: $3,100 and up for what goes on the motor only. Undermount style like Zen's. They also offer top mount pumps. Roots Style Rotors are used in the scavenge sections for both style pumps and bronze spur gears are used for the pressure section. Machined from Billet 7075 T6511 aluminum. See post 23. Wayne vouches for this system.
    RCM, Roger Clark Motorsports
    , sells their own pricey system which looks much like Zen's. Available in the US for less at Rallispec for $3,250. Does not include tank, hoses, etc. RCM has a custom tank they offer, but specific for Subaru engine bays.
    Auto Verdi in Sweden: lobed, Roots style scavenging pumps. AN fitting machined integral to pump, teflon coated.
    Zen Performance in UK: "Dry sump system for Subaru". No specifics on the site. This is an undermount pump attaching directly to the collecting pan. Does not appeal to me due to all the exhaust heat down there. Could be insulated. Leaves things clean on top. Fewer lines.
    I believe the following companies make all spur gear type pumps:
    ARE in California: Complete Subaru kit... no price listed. Machined from 6061 T-6 Billet Aluminum. Spur gear scavenging.
    Aviaid: Quote, "For supercharged, turbocharged or nitrous-boosted applications a three-stage pump (two for suction, one for pressure) is offered."
    Moroso sells their own line of pumps. They are gerotor and multi-lobe type pumps.
    Nutter Racing Engines
    in Vancouver, Washington: Extruded housings, inexpensive (?) spur gear type pumps. Not much detail on this page.
    Articles by them: Important Facts about Dry-Sump Oil Pumps, The truth about some popular MYTHS and CLAIMS
    FACTS ABOUT CRANKCASE VACUUM, The Cheapest Power You Can Buy
    Razor Performance in MESA, AZ: All spur gear style.
    Barnes in Torrance, CA: I believe theirs are all spur gear pumps. Machined from 7075 T-6 billet aluminum. Has interesting accessory take-off drives for fuel pump, etc. and built-on oil filter mount.
    SCP (Stock Car Products) in La Habra, CA: Internals and materials unknown. Seem low~medium priced.
    Frank Weiss Racing Components in Indianapolis, IN: No details within skimpy website. Out of business.

    Caveat: I cannot vouch for any of these manufacturers. I am still in a research mode.
    The best advice I have been given, IMHO, is that you want a four stage pump with one for the pan, one for each head and one gear-style stage for pressure. Multi-lobe and Roots style scavenging pumps seem to pull better vacuums and are possibly preferred (though more costly) over spur gear styles.
    You can keep adding stages, but with more than three (most typical size of pump) you start to run out of room for the pump assembly where the AC compressor used to be. Stages can vary in thickness as the volume they move varies. Hoses are usually -12 for scavenging. Hoses can take up a lot of space; sometimes outlets are combined and feed a single -16 hose. A vacuum regulator may be required. The accumulator or reservoir needs to be vented. Some use a deaerator. Most use a catch-can/breather off the accumulator. Some vent the accumulator. Most have an in-line filter or in-line filter block. Heaters are used to warm the oil since there is usually 10 quarts or so.
    I believe that in some cases a new system can be built for around $4K. There seems to be a plethora of used pumps available on Ebay and the like (and begs the question why). Some are rebuildable.
    Last edited by Scargo; 10-13-2017 at 09:15 AM. Reason: Updated with more accurate information

  23. #63
    Senior Member C.Plavan's Avatar
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    I'll add this video here- The Element kit up and running.

    Thanks- Chad
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  24. #64
    Sgt.Gator's Avatar
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    I spun a bearing in my Spec B at ORP a couple of months ago. I blame the AOS installation, the drain line was kinked about 75% closed going back to the block under the intake. The entire intake tract was full of oil. I tipped the FMIC up and it drained for three days.

    I've probably spun a bearing at Pacific Raceways this last weekend in my Legacy race car. The block is cracked at the knock sensor for sure. 2 STIs in our ICSCC ST class spun bearings last year. Both racers sold/are selling their STIs and going on to other cars.

    Enough is enough for me!

    I've just ordered the Element Tuning Dry Sump Kit. There is a 3 week backlog because Peterson is behind on making the custom tanks.
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  25. #65
    Tazio Nuvolari wannabe Scargo's Avatar
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    Sorry to hear that. I've seen several engines where the front, #1 piston/rod fails and leaves a gaping hole at the top of the case. This just happened to a buddy with an '08 STi. A stock, well used motor, making about 370 and driving the piss out of it on the track. He had an A/OS but did not have oil drain-back to the case. As it was with my STi, where I just broke ring lands on the stock pistons, oil got into the intake. I was making 373/377 @ 21.5 PSI.
    Depending on boost, your fuel and whether the pistons are forged or not, it can mean the beginning of the destruction of the motor.

    In most applications, oil can be controlled without dry-sump, but it must be done so that oil blowby from the heads is minimized, and if it gets out, it is allowed to flow back into the motor. I've been doing it for years/50-60 hours (on this motor with forged CP pistons) with my ST2 level track car.
    The 818 may be an animal that generates enough G's that a dry-sump or KillerB's clever little control valve may be required.
    Do you have an 11mm oil pump? There are lots of little tricks to making the engine last. Taking a tired, stock motor to the track without proper prepping is a recipe for disaster. Even built motors will fail if not built and clearanced properly. I was just on the phone with the owner of a race car business who wished to not have his comments publicized. Let's say he was intimately involved in Subaru racing for several years. He said Subarus were not meant to be road raced. That, for one, the engines could not survive. Then, you look at FFR and their 818 engine failures. Possibly simple mistakes that could have been avoided. I have another friend/instructor/ex-racer who went from an E30 to a new 2009 STi and then to an M3 when he got fed up with Subaru engine reliability. After the original engine and several built motors he gave up on Subies.
    Still, there are success stories. An friend and instructor has been doing track days on the same Subie motor for years. His setup is well thought-out and he runs a Crawford A/OS.

  26. #66
    Senior Member C.Plavan's Avatar
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    Having logged the most race/track miles of any 818R in the world with a dry sump, I'm not too worried at all now. It's just been a long, expensive process. Once the oil temps are fixed (parts ordered) dual coolers, one front, one back. Then I should be able to flog the crap out of the car.

    FFR are just way too absent on the 818R, they either lost total interest, or something new is coming. That makes me think that FFR will be introducing a new drivetrain soon because of their engine woes. Why else have they not been driving the 818R's? So they can develop just a coupe fiberglass roof? I don't believe so. Something else is going on. If they do end up with a new drivetrain, I will be severely disappointed they left us to figure this motor out on the race track.

    Hopefully I never need any bodywork, but if I do, I hope they will send parts to me for free for my R&D. Thats fair right?

    If my motor goes with all the above modifications, I will either sell the car and wash my hands of it, or figure out how to throw a flat six Porsche motor in it.
    Last edited by C.Plavan; 05-23-2015 at 09:28 AM.
    Thanks- Chad
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  27. #67
    Tazio Nuvolari wannabe Scargo's Avatar
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    Not sure of costs and practicality but I sure am curious how the rotary powered 818 will fare. Having owned a twin turbo Rx-7 R1 I have leanings in that direction.

  28. #68
    Senior Member C.Plavan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scargo View Post
    Not sure of costs and practicality but I sure am curious how the rotary powered 818 will fare. Having owned a twin turbo Rx-7 R1 I have leanings in that direction.
    It's funny- We always go for what we are familiar with. Me- Porsche motors, You- Rotary.....

    Edit: What is FFR familiar with???? lol
    Thanks- Chad
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  29. #69
    Tazio Nuvolari wannabe Scargo's Avatar
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    If I went with what I'm really familiar with it would be an old Porsche four-banger or a small-block Chevy. Neither realistic.

  30. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by C.Plavan View Post
    Having logged the most race/track miles of any 818R in the world with a dry sump, I'm not too worried at all now. It's just been a long, expensive process. Once the oil temps are fixed (parts ordered) dual coolers, one front, one back. Then I should be able to flog the crap out of the car.
    That's great to hear you are having no issues. I spent 30 minutes talking with Phil at Element about the dry sump system and he has convinced me. He says he went from blowing 3 engines on 3 consecutive weekends to now having two years on the same engine, and when they tore the engine down for inspection at the end of the season there was almost none of the expected cylinder/ring wear.

    There's just too much upside and almost no downside, except weight and $$$, to running a dry sump. The initial investment seems steep, but it's worth it to me now if it means not worrying about oil issues ever again. And since they don't wear out and can be swapped pretty easily between engines, it's something that once bought, you can use for a very long time.
    "Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement"
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  31. #71
    Sgt.Gator's Avatar
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    I noticed Dailey Engineering has a pan/pump for the Subaru EG33 6 cylinder engine. The lack of a dry sump option for the EZ30R engine was one of the reasons I quit thinking about using it in a 818 or other Subaru race cars. I wonder what it would take to get them to make one for the EZ30R.....

    Dailey Engineering Subaru 6 Cylinder.jpg
    Last edited by Sgt.Gator; 05-24-2015 at 01:28 AM.
    "Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement"
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  32. #72
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    Chad I'm trying to figure out - plan my hoses and fittings. I hope you don't mind a few questions!

    I see the 2 x 12AN scavenge lines from the dry sump to the pump. 4 x 12AN 90 fittings?
    Then 1 x 12AN hose to the oil cooler. 2 x AN12 90s.
    Another 12AN hose from oil cooler to tank. 2 x 12AN 90s or 45s or straight.
    12AN from tank to bottom of dry sump to mate to OEM oil pump. 2 x 12AN 90s.
    One breather line off each head (front vents or back vents?) run separatly to the tank. More 12AN fittings and lines?

    One 12AN line from the top vent on the tank to a catch can breather. A couple of more 12AN fittings.

    What do you do with the left over vents on each head? Could you tee both vents on each together then run them to the tank? And do you plug the former intake inlet? What about the OEM PVC fitting on the back of the block?

    Thanks!
    Sgt.Gator
    "Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement"
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  33. #73
    Senior Member C.Plavan's Avatar
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    That sounds right on the motor/pump/oil cooler fittings. I'll have to look. The tank has a few different ones 45, 90, straight, barbed. I'll take a picture of it, but I have the tank out insulating it. Keep in mind fitting wise, what worked for me may not work for you. It just depends on the hose runs as you know. I'm crazy busy trying to get this thing ready for the race this weekend.

    Remove the whole PVC system and hose clamp a 3/4" hose to the block where the PCV stuff was. I bought plastic tee adapters from McmasterCarr. I basically tied the two head vents together, then those to the 3/4" crankcase hose (From old PVC location), then back to the tank with a 3/4" barbed fitting. It's like a puzzle, but you just need to tie them all together, basically ending up as one line (3/4"), then get it to the oil tank. That way if your head fill with oil in corners, it just goes into the tank. Not all line have to be SS or have expensive fittings (breather tank line etc)
    Thanks- Chad
    818R-SOLD!!!- Go Karted 7/20/14/ Officially raced NASA ST2- 2/28/15
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  34. #74
    Senior Member C.Plavan's Avatar
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    Here are a few pictures:

    Both head vents tee'd together-> to an adapter with bigger step up in hose-> To a Y adapter -> oil tank. The other hose on the Y adapter is the 3/4" hose from the block (old PVC area)




    I had to use a 90 degree plastic adapter so the 3/4" hose from the Block did not kink.

    Thanks- Chad
    818R-SOLD!!!- Go Karted 7/20/14/ Officially raced NASA ST2- 2/28/15
    2016 Elan NP01 Prototype Racecar Chassis #20
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  35. #75
    Sgt.Gator's Avatar
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    Thanks for the pics and the answers!

    Here's the inside of my race car engine:

    ..
    Attached Images Attached Images
    "Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement"
    Owner: Colonel Red Racing
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  36. #76
    Senior Member C.Plavan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sgt.Gator View Post
    Thanks for the pics and the answers!

    Here's the inside of my race car engine:

    ..
    OUCH! No Dry Sump? (EDIT **** I see the oil pick up now- NVM)
    Thanks- Chad
    818R-SOLD!!!- Go Karted 7/20/14/ Officially raced NASA ST2- 2/28/15
    2016 Elan NP01 Prototype Racecar Chassis #20
    1969 Porsche 911ST Vintage Race Car
    1972 Porsche 911T (#'s matching undergoing nut & bolt resto in my garage)

  37. #77
    Senior Member FFRSpec72's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sgt.Gator View Post
    I've just ordered the Element Tuning Dry Sump Kit. There is a 3 week backlog because Peterson is behind on making the custom tanks.
    A co-worker here ordered his 1st week in March and still nothing, don't forget they have an active race program and thus not always around to keep things moving.
    Tony Nadalin
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  38. #78
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    Quote Originally Posted by FFRSpec72 View Post
    A co-worker here ordered his 1st week in March and still nothing, don't forget they have an active race program and thus not always around to keep things moving.
    I got my tracking numbers today!
    "Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement"
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  39. #79
    Senior Member FFRSpec72's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sgt.Gator View Post
    I got my tracking numbers today!
    So I will see you in Spokane this weekend then !
    Tony Nadalin
    2018 SOVREN Big Bore Champion
    2015 SCCA Oregon Region VP3 Champion
    2012 ICSCC ITE Class Champion
    FFR MkII Challenge Car, Spec Racer, Street Legal, SCCA, ICSCC and NASA Racing
    818R Build in progress

  40. #80
    Sgt.Gator's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FFRSpec72 View Post
    So I will see you in Spokane this weekend then !
    Nope, but I better be at Pacific July 31- Aug 2!
    "Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement"
    Owner: Colonel Red Racing
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    818R ICSCC SPM
    2005 Subaru STI Race Car ICSCC ST and SPM
    Palatov DP4 - ICSCC Sports Racer

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