Oil issues: Dry Sump, Accusump for road racing?

[Sgt.Gator]

I'm 2/3 done with the dry sump install. I'm doing things with the PCV just slightly different from Chad. He tied the the two vents on each valve cover together. I'm not going to do that. Instead the back vents will remain stock, the front vents will follow the path Chad is using: Front Vents to a Tee, from Tee a short hose to another Tee. That Tee is tied down to the old PCV block fitting, and on to the tank.

Why am I keeping the back vents stock? Well for one thing, simplicity. The back vents are tied together by a pipe and hose that has a Tee in the middle that goes down to another block vent. (Not the same as the PVC Block Vent). This plumbing is not connected to the Intake system, it just goes from one head to the other with a Tee to the crankcase. Less installation time and effort.
But the main reason is what I read in the Perrin AOS installation instructions. They say that the back vents and block are tied together to balance pressures between both heads and the block. They are explicit that this balance system is not to be modified or removed.
Does it matter? Probably not. Chad's system should balance anyway since his method ties the old PVC vent and the two heads to open air thru the tank and vented catch can. So the block and heads should all be the same pressure, or come to equal pressures very quickly.

One other possible benefit is if the heads fill up with oil in a turn and start to back up the hoses, the stock balance system is lower and shorter than going all the way to the tank, so the oil should drain from the heads more quickly.

And for those of you looking at getting an AOS: My Spec B had a Crawford AOS and after the motor blew I discovered the FMIC and all the intake tract had a ridiculous amount of oil in it. I've downloaded both the Perrin and Crawford AOS installation instructions and IMHO the Perrin instructions are far superior, and it appears the product looks superior too.

I'll post up some pics of the dry sump in operation, hopefully by Tuesday.

EDIT: After seeing Chad's post about air in the oil I'm rethinking running a hose from the crankcase PCV vent to the hose that comes from the front head vents to the tank. Now I'm thinking I'll just cap the old PVC crankcase vent. The crankcase should still get enough air to avoid problems because it will get air from the front head vents> inside the valve covers> to the rear vents and into the crankcase via the rear vent balance system.
At least that's the theory!

[Scargo]

Please correct me if this doesn't make sense, but I thought one major advantage to a dry-sump system was the ability to pull a vacuum on the crankcase. If you vent it (front head vents to a T and then to another T and on to the oil accumulator tank) aren't you negating that benefit? Other than that I like what you say you're doing and agree the rear vents should just be T'd back to the crankcase. I know some systems have valves for adjusting crankcase vacuum.

[C.Plavan]

Please correct me if this doesn't make sense, but I thought one major advantage to a dry-sump system was the ability to pull a vacuum on the crankcase. If you vent it (front head vents to a T and then to another T and on to the oil accumulator tank) aren't you negating that benefit? Other than that I like what you say you're doing and agree the rear vents should just be T'd back to the crankcase. I know some systems have valves for adjusting crankcase vacuum.

IIRC The dry sump is still pulling a vacuum to some extent. I think it's the nature of the flat motor and heads filling with oil in high g turns. Make a bigger vacuum, oil to heads slosh gets worse.

[Scargo]

I'm not buying it. None of it. How can a vacuum cause oil slosh? Even so, with dry-sump you have a vacuum and are sucking oil out if designed properly. If you vent the case then you have only suction at the bottom of the case "as the oil collects normally" and do nothing for ring seal or the parasitic loses from oil splashing around or oil collecting in the heads. Chris, of Killer B, says you need to scavenge the oil from the heads as well as the case bottom.

[C.Plavan]

Then don't buy it. . I would take Chris with a grain of salt too. Porsche has been using a dry sump and not savaging the heads since 1965 on the oil cooled cars.

[Scargo]

It is not a take it or leave it proposition. I do take what Chris says with reservations, but his input does not have anything to do with the basic functions of dry-sump. If you vent the case then its scavenging vacuum is lost and it cannot do anything for assisting the rings to seal or for parasitic oil particles flying around.

[C.Plavan]

http://nutterracingengines.com/racin...uum_facts.html

Good info- I meant windage, not slosh, but kinda the same thing.

[Sgt.Gator]

Scargo this is a great question and caused me to do a lot more reading. My research shows there are people who insist the system should be sealed to get the extra HP from vacuum. There are others who don't care for the last 5-10 or at most 20HP, they want the original main reason for a dry sump, controlling the oil at high G's. And they point out that DrySump.com (ARE) recommends venting the valve covers to the tank. All these plumbing schematics include a return line from the tank to the PCV or valve covers:
http://drysump.com/LS%20Plumbing%20Schematics.htm
are-plumbing-schematic.jpg

Also Aviaid, the maker of my pump, also shows the tank vented the valve cover in this installation document, and they've been at this for 40 years: http://aviaid.com/pdfs/dsp_install.pdf

Burton Power Systems: "On dry sump systems, the scavenging action of the pump should evacuate any excess blow by gases in the crankcase and, in an ideal situation, maintain pressures at or below 2 inches of water. Depending on the practicalities of individual engine types and installations, both ‘open’ and ‘closed’ systems can be adopted with some tuners preferring the closed system. Providing a closed system (incorporating a PCV or similar check valve between the engine and oil tank) can be seen to function efficiently, it can offer added benefits. The closed system allows the scavenge pump to reduce crankcase pressures to a minimum, in some cases as low as zero or even a slight vacuum. In such situations a small bhp gain is achieved by eliminating combustion chamber contamination and reducing any residual oil drag (clinging to crank, rods, etc.) to a bare minimum."

And I've also read a guy on the Corvette forum who claims that venting the valve covers to the tank can be a cause of aeration in the oil. Chad note! He advocates a total seal, or at most a separate small vent with fresh air, NOT from the tank.He does have a good point, the oil and combustion gases that pour into the tank from the scavenge line will make nasty gases and oil saturated air. The vacuum created by the pump will be pulling those gases and air suspended droplets of oil back from the tank, thru the vent lines back into the heads or directly back into the crankcase thru the old PCV vent if that's teed into the line. That will cause the aeration. The vent plumbed to the tank sucks air in, not lets air out.
Is this correct? I'm not sure!

For me the HP increase is not needed, I'm already at the max HP for my class and I have more room in my turbo if I wanted 10 more HP. So the HP requirement doesn't apply.

So who do I follow, the the makers of my sump casting (ARE) and my pump (Aviaaid) or internet experts? Obviously Nutter falls into the sealed crankcase camp because of the write up Chad cited.

However if :
A) I could just seal the front vents and the old PCV vent, that would make the installation easier, reduce some weight, and declutter my engine compartment.
B) If running it vented is a cause of oil aeration that would be enough reason right there. I'm not too worried about the heads filling with oil and not draining back since I will be keeping the stock balance system on the back vents and block. I'm certain they would drain before the front vent hoses ever got close to sending head oil all the way back to my tank.

So Scargo you have changed my mind, at least for now! I'm going to complete my installation this weekend running a sealed block and see what happens when I dyno it next week and track test next Sunday.

[Sgt.Gator]

Two more thoughts:
The Avaiad pump and pulley we are using may not have the juice to run a closed system. Ours are setup with a a/c belt, not a cogged belt, and the pump has the minimum number of stages. I guess I'll find out. If it doesn't work I have the setup ready to install in 15 minutes to vent the front valve covers to the tank.

Running the system closed frees up an inlet on the tank which I'll cap. If a Spintric becomes necessary I can use that inlet for the mixed air/oil from the Spintric.

[Sgt.Gator]

This engine build thread on NASIOC is very interesting for lots of reasons, including a mention of our own Jeff Sponaugle! The thread starts because he blew his first motor on the track because of oil starvation, so this time around he went dry sump. He originally vented to the catch can directly, and the catch can had a drain back to the oil tank. That didn't work.
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1272571

To the point on the venting you should just read the last page, but I'll summarize here:
"Oil fill is blocked off. Engine pulls vac under idle but quickly goes positive under boost. Had to vent to the rear tank as the engine likes to push oil out the crank case under boost. Mike of GST had similar issues.
I only run my engines for 2000 miles before a refresh so the engine in this thread has been refreshed already. I've had no oiling issues since the oil dry sump. I've busted a lot of other things but no spun bearings. I spin the blocks to 8500.
It's does not happen every time and I'm not 100% sure as to why it does it but you get oil shooting out of the crank case breather on the track. My custom drain back catch can takes about 1.5 quarts to fill before oil would also shoot out of the breather. You cannot reproduce this on the dyno and it's not oil coming from the heads as i disconnected those as a test one day.

This is why I now vent the block back into the rear oil tank. If oil does vent from the block it safely vents into the rear tank. I run a -12 breather hose to the rear tank. Mike at GST I think runs a -16 on his. We have both had oil shooting out of the crank case breathers.

Note it only does this under high G on the track so it's something to do with the oil drain back through the block."

At least in his case the turbo pressure blowby overcomes the dry sump's vacuum ability, so running a sealed-closed system won't net any vacuum benefit. Worse case the crankcase pressure could build so high that gaskets start leaking or damage occurs.
So now I'm thinking of going back to the open vent to tank method.

[Scargo]

Obviously, this is not a simple problem and perhaps there is no, one, ideal solution. What is the NASIOC thread? I know I have read it and believe I subscribed to it so perhaps it has been inactive? I'm going to ask a lot of questions because I am at my cabin and internet access and data throughput is limited. When I return and over the course of the winter I will have my de-stroker motor to build and am following all of this closely. In my ST2 level STi I have not needed to go dry-sump. Perhaps not making enough G's? I also only turn 7 grand in it. I am making about 500 crank HP.

In the NASIOC thread, I wonder if the PCV port is blocked off and is he referring to only using the smaller, more central case vent? Why couldn't it be baffled, as I believe the PCV port is?
Also, what is his dry-sump setup? Certainly you could have enough scavenging to overcome boost blowby and deal with any excess negative pressure, when off-boost) by regulating it. Does he run any de-aeration? He says he does not spin bearings any longer so that might be a clue as to what is minimally needed.

[Sgt.Gator]

Scargo, dang I thought I posted the thread link! My Bad. Here it is and I'll edit the post above. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1272571

The NASIOC thread starts in 2007, pretty much when no one else was running a dry sump, and it's 22 pages long. For me it's extra interesting because he's a Portland guy doing his work at PDX Tuning, started by Jeff Sponaugle, which becomes Cobb Surgeline. So there's pictures of Jeff dynoing this car. And pics of PIR and ORP.
There is also a followup thread here at his 2000 mile rebuild: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1651984
I'm going to PM him for advice now.
He's using all Peterson parts. No deaereation other than the tank and catch cans. He had to custom fab a dry sump pan because no one made one then. His is the full pressure system, replacing (actually de-commissioning) the oem oil pump.

Here's his Peterson Pump: img_1797.jpg

The pressure from the Turbo adds a new factor into the mix when we're reading about vacuum scavenge. The system Chad and I have is the minimum pump we can get by with. 2 scavenge, one output, uses the OEM oil pump for engine oil pressure, a/c belt. Possibly to get a real vacuum going on a turbo we'd need a much more powerful setup like a Dailey: "Dailey Engineering oil pumps with the pressure section located in the front of the oil pump can be fitted with an optional Air/Oil Separator. The Air/Oil Separator routes pure oil (rather than foamy oil) back to the oil tank. This centrifugal hydrodynamic device mechanically separates the air from the foamy oil and then routes pure oil and air back to the tank thru separator lines. http://www.daileyengineering.com/oil_pumps.htm There is a video of the pump + AOS here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qJxM...em-uploademail

And for those folks who are going with an accumulator like an Accusump or Moroso I found this Moroso video excellent:

[Scargo]

Great idea. Note the last post was over three years ago. I PM'd Mick in February of last year and this is his response:

Hi Glyn,
I travel a lot so sorry for the delay in responding.

The dry sump is a PITA but it works very well after 4 years of fiddling and changes. The main thing is to vent anything that's not being scavenged into the oil tank. Myself and mike of gst had issues with oil blowing out the head and crank vents, more than just blowby.

To be honest I'm not sure a dry sump is needed if you have a good pan, baffles, windage control and maybe an accusump to help with dry start. But if you want to do one you better tell me what you've looked at already. There are a couple of kits available now.. Look for something that has a pick up pan and maybe integrated pump.

In respect to turbos I'm afraid I might not be very much help. I run a classic GT30R with a .82 exhaust or a GT35R with I think a .92. The 35 has lots more power but the 30 is a blast and rips my 295 Hoosiers loose in the corners. The 30 hits hard and hits 600 rpm lower than the 35.

And yes, both hips replaced.

Cheers

Mick (from Amsterdam).

I have emailed to a higher power for recommendations of who has successfully built and run dry-sump setups since this seems to be more complex than I thought. BTW, the Daily setup is my dry-sump of choice so far. It has the integrated pumps and pan... In January I had a brief interchange with Bill Dailey. Bill Dailey<[email protected]>

Note: "... rips my 295 Hoosiers loose in the corners." I don't think we will need huge power to do that.

This somewhat picks up where Mick left off, and its last post is a year old. I've not had a chance to read all the way through it. Two friends now have KB's valve on their track cars.

[C.Plavan]

I hope I am almost done with the dry sump "fiddling". I keep telling myself, "this time will fix it". I do know with the G's the 818R pulls, a wet sump would of cost me a motor already. Another fact- If you drive a 818R like a sissy on a race track with long turns or banking, you wont need a dry sump.

As for an Accusump.......where does all that oil go? Out the breathers? Yikes.

[Sgt.Gator]

As for an Accusump.......where does all that oil go? Out the breathers? Yikes.

And into the Intake tract!

[Scargo]

No, no! You sissies! Had to say that...
What category am I in? The sissy, don't need a dry-sump or the real G'man racer category?

When you run a Accusump it has air pressure behind the piston in the chamber. When oil pressure falls below that pressure it pushes the oil out AND vice-versa. When oil pressure builds it goes back where it came from. It never hangs around if there is sufficient pressure to put the genie back in the bottle.
Only if, like me, you have a manual valve, can you forget to shut it off and oil accumulates in the pan when you shut the motor off. Yet it disappears back into the Accusump as soon as pressure builds.

[C.Plavan]

You have to treat the 818R like a red headed step child...... Wait, I think it's been treating me like one. haha

[Sgt.Gator]

I emailed Phil at Element about the correct vent routing:

"Hi Phil,
I plugged the former PCV block vent.
I left the stock rear valve cover vents- crankcase vent balance system alone since it doesn't connect to the intake system.
I plan to vent the front vents on the valve covers back to the tank.
Should I unplug the former PCV vent and tee it to the valve cover line going to the tank?
Thanks,
Gator

Yes exactly.
Thank you,
Philip Grabow
Element Tuning"

So I'm taking his response to be I have everything correct if I tee in the PCV block vent. The stock rear balance system stays unmolested.

That said I'm going to setup the system to run either PCV teed or blocked. Initially the PCV vent will be blocked, if I run into an issue I will simply connect the line. The reason is I like the airflow path (theoretically) both under vacuum and under boost with it blocked. However if the under boost is too much blowby causing more pressure in the crankcase than I expect I can vent it off thru the PCV vent.

R&D, I feel like Chad!

[Scargo]

Gator, and all,
From your post #90 and the reference to the NASIOC thread and specifically Mick's final remarks, do you think they are blocking off the large PCV port?
I'm baffled (or perhaps baffles are needed) by why oil would be pushed out of the case vent unless too much was getting blocked off and/or a closed loop created. Especially when the heads are vented via the smaller sized, baffled head ports. Perhaps with a lot of boost they need more head venting or also venting from the PCV port to prevent this high-G puking. Mick do not mention the PCV port, so I want to assume it's blocked off... but on the other hand he says "crank case breathers", which is breathers, plural.
Note: The crankcase does have two places it breathes from. One is typically tied to the head's baffled breathers (the smaller nipples) and T'd to the smaller middle of case vent nipple (thus a closed loop) and the other, larger nipple is from the separator and for the PCV connection.

A source told me that of those he knew running Element Tuning's dry-sump setup, all have had issues. Mike, of GST seems to like his pricey, but simple, Cosworth setup. He also said that of the Dailey setups he's been involved with that he has had no concerns about using them.
THEN, OTOH he made reference to TIC's Subie race car, which does no have a dry-sump or even an Accusump...and run's VIR at 1:54's.

Note: NASIOC link fixed.

[Wayne Presley]

Gator, and all,
NASIOC thread

linky no worky

[Sgt.Gator]

Scargo I can't see how oil could be forced out of either of the crankcase vents. At least not anything larger than oil droplets in the air as it's all churning around.
Mick is using a Peterson Pump. Element is the smallest, the Aviaid version I'm using is the smallest of them all. Maybe neither is strong enough to create enough vacuum to prevent this. Maybe the Dailey and Cosworth are strong enough.

I went ahead and setup the initial plumbing to Phil's reccomendation, that is the PCV port teed to the front head vents and then to the tank. I can easily just plug the Tee and the line down to the PCV port if I want to try it the other way.

I've thought about adding a simple in-out catch can to that line near the tank just to trap up to a liter of oil on the way to the tank and try to get an idea of just how much oil is being pushed from the heads and pcv vent.
Almost done with my install. I discovered last night I need a couple of different -12AN fittings than I had planned on.

[Scargo]

I believe now that Mick meant the head vents. If you think in terms of engines other than flat, or boxer design, the valve covers, ie, the heads, are on top and where an engine is vented. I will communicate with him to confirm this. If that's the case and this is an issue of semantics, then it makes all the sense in the world and is in line with what Chris of KB and others have said about oil surge into the heads in high-G capable cars.

[Sgt.Gator]

I just got this from Mick and am posting it with his permission. It's actually two emails combined to make best sense here. Keep in mind these are 500 AWHP builds:

"Hi Gator,
Phil from Element and Mike from GST are the only two people I spoke with as we built up experience in running dry sump setups. I was one of the first but they raced more than me so built up experience that I rolled into my setup.

Phil’s input seems sound. My race block (the one which needs a rebuild) has the baffled head breathers blocked off, I didn’t experience any issue with that. The block is a sleeved and bored 2.2T so it only have one crank case breather.

My spare 2.5L backup block which I’m running at the moment has the setup as below.

In respect to your dry sump question, you must vent the engine as the dry sump cannot pull a vacuum under boost.

At some point under boost and G’s you will blow oil out of pretty much every engine vent, heads and block.

The Baffled breathers are teed with each other and teed into the smaller port on top of the 2.5L block. The un-baffled head vents go into a drain back catch can with drain back to main crank case breather as well as venting as described below. The drain back catch can itself hooks up to the main block vent which doubles up as the drain back but also allows oil to “blow” out the vent.

The drain back catch can itself is vented to the main oil storage dry sump tank. I have a check valve on the catch can vent so that air/oil can only exit. Amazingly on the track I have had a couple of cases where this catch can completely fills and blows oil out the top vent!!! (This was before I had it venting as seen below)


At the dry sump tank I have the oil vent from the catch can “T”ed into the pre-tank oil filter, again with a check valve to ensure that the oil from the main oil return does not back feed into the vent line.



One other note, but this might be specific to my setup. If I run 80 psi oil pressure my oil ends up getting very hot, somewhat seems to overrun coolant and the two oil coolers I have installed. At 65psi this is not so much of an issue. No joke, at 80psi once the oil warms up I can do like 2 laps before the oil temp goes crazy. At 65psi I can go lap after lap with hardly any issue. I have to think I am flowing too much oil through the engine at 80psi….

Cheers

Mick"

I bolded the text just for Chad's benefit!

[C.Plavan]

That kinda goes along with the theory of higher oil pressure, more aeration, less oil cooler efficiency. (hotter oil)
https://www.highpowermedia.com/blog/3733/oil-aeration

[C.Plavan]

Look what showed up. I hope it works!!!!!!

[Scargo]

"Altering the shear rate within the bearing assembly by increasing the clearance can reduce friction, but the extra clearance will need higher oil 'make up' or flow, and so any performance released by reducing the friction may be consumed again by the extra lubricant to be pumped. On the other hand, too fine a clearance will never allow the oil to flow, and the heat generated - which is otherwise taken away with the oil as it leaks away - will inevitably lead to bearing failure."*
I take this to also mean that too high an oil pressure negatively affects the shear rate and drives up the heat of the oil.
*https://www.highpowermedia.com/blog/...ng-lubrication
Similarly, there have been many that say that you shouldn't put a 12mm JDM oil pump in a high-performance motor.

12-10-2017 Update: I ran over 20 track hours in my STi with a ported 12mm pump and external Peterson pressure relief valve in this new built EJ257 engine. Oil pressure's typically 70 to 85. I ran either 430 or 470 horsepower (I can select between three maps). Engine is ready to go in the spring, as-is. UOA's have been OK.

[Sgt.Gator]

Look what showed up. I hope it works!!!!!!

What is the cost of this unit, they don't say on the web page.

[C.Plavan]

What is the cost of this unit, they don't say on the web page.

~$800.....

I also bought a special fitting that will go into the aluminum oil tank (ARE provided- Gary suggestion since my tank only has one top vent). I bought a -12 aluminum bung to weld into the top of the aluminum tank (female O ring type). It has a flow fitting on it that will help the air/oil exit hose further. It will reduce the amount of air in the oil going into the tank from the air relief valve on the Spintric.

I have to take the tank out to drill and weld the bung in. I'm also going to weld in a 1/8" NPT bung at the bottom to make you crazy oil temp guys happy.

[Pearldrummer7]

I'm also going to weld in a 1/8" NPT bung at the bottom to make you crazy oil temp guys happy.

haha it might be worth the time/effort to relocate the sensor. That time spent is easily made up with how many times you've written "there's no problem with temperature location, guys"


Nice unit. I hope it fixes the temperature problem, Chad!

[flynntuna]

Fingers crossed

[Flamshackle]

~$800.....

I also bought a special fitting that will go into the aluminum oil tank (ARE provided- Gary suggestion since my tank only has one top vent). I bought a -12 aluminum bung to weld into the top of the aluminum tank (female O ring type). It has a flow fitting on it that will help the air/oil exit hose further. It will reduce the amount of air in the oil going into the tank from the air relief valve on the Spintric.

I have to take the tank out to drill and weld the bung in. I'm also going to weld in a 1/8" NPT bung at the bottom to make you crazy oil temp guys happy.

Man oh Man I hope this is it!

[Sgt.Gator]

Finished up my dry sump install and took the car to Cobb for tune. Everything went fine on the dyno. Sunday I'll take it to ORP for a test & tune. I went thru a bunch of -12AN hose and fittings!

[Mitch Wright]

Look forward to some completed Dry Sump pictures and test report.

[C.Plavan]

Look forward to some completed Dry Sump pictures and test report.

FYI- Sgt. Gator does not have an 818- Its on his Legacy racer. So his findings may be different, since its a different car/configuration/weight/speed/g's. etc All that stuff.

[Sgt.Gator]

I replicated Chad's problem. Massive oil temp spikes on track. I'll write up a full report.
The good news is I think I know why, but I want to talk with Chad first.
More to come soon!

[Pearldrummer7]

I replicated Chad's problem. Massive oil temp spikes on track. I'll write up a full report.
The good news is I think I know why, but I want to talk with Chad first.
More to come soon!

I can't tell if that's concerning or exciting....

Keep us posted!

[Mitch Wright]

Great news

[Sgt.Gator]

Well what I thought was the problem, is probably not the problem. After talking with John at Aviaid I was probably wrong in my theory of the problem.

First here's a graph of my track session. You can see the normal drop in oil pressure as the oil temp rises. Then suddenly the average oil pressure climbs and so does the oil temp until there is a dramatic increase oil temps and oil pressure falls way off. The oil pressure falls way off because I saw the temps climbing like crazy and backed off the throttle until I was coasting and the engine stopped running. I fired it back up right away and kept it idling and coasting as much as possible til I left the track, that restart is not on the graph:




Tonight I found this when checking the belt tension. Although it looked ok on the engine when I started turning the adjuster it didn't feel right:



Element Tuning dry sump does NOT provide engine pressure, but if it's not working right the engine block will fill with oil and could cause the rise in temps as the oil gets whipped by the crank. That might explain the sudden rise in temps if it broke and the pump wasn't spinning correctly. See the far right side of the graph.

Thanks,
Gator

[C.Plavan]

See I'm not crazy!!!!

I checked my belt, I could probably tighten it down a bit more just in case. I'm still leaning towards oil aeration and will be installing that trick air/oil separator. If that does not work...... We are screwed.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Sgt.Gator and Chad,

Chad, you are not crazy, just going broke.
Great Job Sgt,Gator

I'm still leaning toward my theory that when the oil gets hot AND 85psi, the flow is to much for the scavenge pumps to keep up.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...l=1#post204761

A quick fix might be to change pulleys and spin the scavenge pump a little faster.
Bob

PS: The chances of both Chad and Sgt.Gator of having the same broken bracket is pretty slim.