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Thread: Chedda's 818S build thread

  1. #161
    Mechie3's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by chedda View Post
    Has anyone gotten burnt out on this project? I'm tired of things going wrong all the time and frustrations galore.
    I have had moments were I just didn't feel like working on the car. It was mostly after I got to body stuff and wrapping up details. Sometimes progress is just slow and it feels like the work in and the results out don't match. Usually I get most frustrated when things that are supposed to work don't (or don't work as well as I think they should). One big thing for a long time was harness mounts. The R has them, the S doesn't, probably about $5 in material, $10 in labor to bend them, $20 in labor to have them welded. Would save a lot of time for the majority of S users that don't use factory seatbelts yet....they're not there. IMO, it's one of the "we can save money here, but we shouldn't". I've finally gotten around to making some mounts and have 1 welded in.
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  2. #162
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by chedda View Post
    Things don't sound right, shut it off and retune for what it needs. Troubleshot the motor and since it has a vf39 maybe it was looking for more fuel. Put in WRX dark blue 560cc injectors. Tuned it once again and still runs the same.
    When you retune, is this happening on a dyno? If not, how are you tuning? Are you monitoring AFR, if so, what is it at idle and under boost? Did you scale the larger injectors in your ECU? Do you have a large fuel trim happening? Maybe it's a bad upstream O2 sensor? As far as the engine building - did you record your bucket to cam shaft clearances? And are you using shimless buckets (sti)? I wouldn't pull the motor out just yet, there's still a lot of data logging and troubleshooting that could be done. Have you checked your oil pan for metal shavings?

    Quote Originally Posted by Mechie3 View Post
    One big thing for a long time was harness mounts. The R has them, the S doesn't, probably about $5 in material, $10 in labor to bend them, $20 in labor to have them welded.
    The newer S chassis started adding harness mounts. Mine (#150) has them.

  3. #163
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    Quote Originally Posted by 508wrx View Post
    That sounds exactly like my car did on first start. Try to get a new cam position sensor (its on the driver side near the oil filler neck) or make sure it is plugged in. Mine ran like that when it had no cam sensor.

    Also, Are you running open turbo in that video? I can't see a downpipe... maybe its just the angle of the video.
    I can try another sensor. It is connected but the driver side is ok with compression. The passenger side has less compression. That has to be mechanical right?

    Yes it is open turbo and could explain no boost since there isn't any back pressure at all.


    Quote Originally Posted by Mechie3 View Post
    I have had moments were I just didn't feel like working on the car. It was mostly after I got to body stuff and wrapping up details. Sometimes progress is just slow and it feels like the work in and the results out don't match. Usually I get most frustrated when things that are supposed to work don't (or don't work as well as I think they should). One big thing for a long time was harness mounts. The R has them, the S doesn't, probably about $5 in material, $10 in labor to bend them, $20 in labor to have them welded. Would save a lot of time for the majority of S users that don't use factory seatbelts yet....they're not there. IMO, it's one of the "we can save money here, but we shouldn't". I've finally gotten around to making some mounts and have 1 welded in.

    I have a 5 point as well and I think I have a solution without welding anything new. Just sucks being kit #9*something and there isn't anything to attach to.

    I guess I'll figure it out somehow.
    Last edited by chedda; 07-15-2015 at 02:50 PM.

  4. #164
    Mechie3's Avatar
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    DOH!!

    The upside (and downside) of being an early kit. Well, good to know that someone at FFR realized it would be very good to add them in.
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  5. #165
    Senior Member Tamra's Avatar
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    Ours is 297 and we did not have seat belt mounting tabs. I'm jealous!
    Tamra
    Building 818SR #297 picked up 10/25/14 with Andrew (xxguitarist)
    First start 12/21/14, First "drive" 1/17/15
    First Dyno at EFI Logics 3/7/15- 310whp at 15psi for break in, full spool by ~3500rpm!
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  6. #166
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    Mine is mid 200 I think.... 220-something maybe? I have a tab for OEM seat belts but not for a harness. I'm going to have to weld something on.

  7. #167
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    I hope I'm not confused but I'm referring to the harness bar mounting tabs, not any mounting tabs on the floor.
    tabs.jpg

  8. #168
    Senior Member Tamra's Avatar
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    I was referring to tabs on the floor. Our kit came with the harness bar tabs.
    Tamra
    Building 818SR #297 picked up 10/25/14 with Andrew (xxguitarist)
    First start 12/21/14, First "drive" 1/17/15
    First Dyno at EFI Logics 3/7/15- 310whp at 15psi for break in, full spool by ~3500rpm!
    First autocross 3/29/15
    1st Registered 818 in Connecticut 7/24/2015. 9 months - 1 day from kit pickup!

  9. #169
    Senior Member matteo92065's Avatar
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    My S #222 has no other brackets/tabs other than what is shown on this picture. STiPWRD's picture shows the tab for the factory belts shoulder guide.
    I welded in 5 point harness tabs last night. I never thought I would want or use them, but after experiencing the speed of this car I don't want anything less than 4 point.
    seat belt.jpg

    And I guess the harness bar attaches to that tab also.
    Last edited by matteo92065; 07-15-2015 at 04:14 PM.

  10. #170
    Mechie3's Avatar
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    Yeah, floor mounted brackets for the lap and crotch belts.
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  11. #171
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    I have quite an interesting update for you all. Last night I broke down and figured it was time to take the motor out again.

    I started at draining the coolant, depressurized the fuel lines, disconnected the shifting mechanism, removed all the beautiful wiring from iWire. I took off the intercooler and started on the intake manifold. Since I left the turbo on, I had to take one of the TGV assembly/injector housing. I was just about to remove the throttle body/intake manifold, I noticed something a little weird on the wire harness that wraps around it. There are some exposed wires where it T's off from the main harness. I further investigate and to my surprise, there are 4 wires cut. I thought that was mildly interesting and followed the wires down to where they go. They went to the coilpacks on the passenger side that holds compression but at a lower rate than expected. hmmmmm I thought... This could really be the reason as to why the engine ran like crap since it was only firing on 2 cylinders.

    I was mildy excited by this... Last week I went to my parts guy for bigger injectors (06-07 dark blue 560cc) and picked up a intake manifold harness just in case. I quickly ran to my STI since I never took it out of the hatch and kind of danced for a minute haha! Very funny for a chunky white guy trying to dance.

    So I swapped out the harness and put it all back together. All that is left is to put the battery back in and verify all the grounds are good to go. I left the shop around 2AM trying to button everything up on the motor. I got to work at 6AM and all gitty like a school girl on prom night. I won't be able to hit the shop tonight since I have decided to start working out again. I hope to have some good news over the weekend.


    So our thought process for the low compression is that since the one side hasn't burned or anything, the piston rings have not set in yet. They have only gone back and forth without the proper heat. It would make perfect sense as to hold constantly at 120PSI without any issues. *crosses fingers* that is all that it was.

  12. #172

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    So excited to hear it running like a dream for you. Totally know and love the feeling you're experiencing.

    Looking forward to a perfectly running engine video.

  13. #173
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    Well, Friday night it started right up after a few troubleshootings with the new harness. It didn't have some crap sensor that doesn't mean anything. It ran for a good hour or so. The header wrap smoked for a good 30 minutes. Things were looking really really good. Took it out for a spin around the neighborhood and just after doing so, put it in neutral and was about to turn off the motor and it abruptly stopped. It was a sound that was not a good stop. We tried to hand move the crank it wouldn't budge. Hmmm that was weird. So we brought out the breaker bar and the timing belt "jumped" 3 teeth on the driver side intake cam. so gravy train... another hiccup. Drained all the fluids including oil and there were very very small metal flakes. All I can think of was the worse. Opened up the valve cover on the driver side and holy crap batman! With the motor running on just that side for a minute with all the previous troubles, the cam cover bolts came loose and walked themselves out. The cam went crooked and seized into the head. what a major pain it was to get that dang thing off! Good thing I had ARP headstuds and was able to take them all out to remove the head. No need to pull the motor I was able to track down another set of heads for super cheap from another subaru member in the local car club. I cleaned the head up with some ammonia and pressure washed it. Looked like he also had them machined but sat in storage and got dirty. The good news is that none of the valves or anything on the previous head got damaged. I will be transferring all those over to the replacement head and lashing them properly.

    Hopefully the new head will go successfully and start it back up later this week.

    tl;dr - things broke and new/old parts have been purchased.

  14. #174
    Senior Member Flamshackle's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by chedda View Post
    Well, Friday night it started right up after a few troubleshootings with the new harness. It didn't have some crap sensor that doesn't mean anything. It ran for a good hour or so. The header wrap smoked for a good 30 minutes. Things were looking really really good. Took it out for a spin around the neighborhood and just after doing so, put it in neutral and was about to turn off the motor and it abruptly stopped. It was a sound that was not a good stop. We tried to hand move the crank it wouldn't budge. Hmmm that was weird. So we brought out the breaker bar and the timing belt "jumped" 3 teeth on the driver side intake cam. so gravy train... another hiccup. Drained all the fluids including oil and there were very very small metal flakes. All I can think of was the worse. Opened up the valve cover on the driver side and holy crap batman! With the motor running on just that side for a minute with all the previous troubles, the cam cover bolts came loose and walked themselves out. The cam went crooked and seized into the head. what a major pain it was to get that dang thing off! Good thing I had ARP headstuds and was able to take them all out to remove the head. No need to pull the motor I was able to track down another set of heads for super cheap from another subaru member in the local car club. I cleaned the head up with some ammonia and pressure washed it. Looked like he also had them machined but sat in storage and got dirty. The good news is that none of the valves or anything on the previous head got damaged. I will be transferring all those over to the replacement head and lashing them properly.

    Hopefully the new head will go successfully and start it back up later this week.

    tl;dr - things broke and new/old parts have been purchased.
    Wowsers!
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  15. #175
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Wow, holy crap batman and robin!!!
    Frank
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  16. #176
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    All the goodies from the old head were still good thankfully. I transferred all the parts to the new/used head. It was already machined and ready to rock and roll. I put the head on and sealed it up. I had to wait for the half moons to dry before I can add oil and stuff. The cam gears have to be tightened and the timing belt still needs to go back on. Hopefully after all the double and triple checks, we can start it again tonight

  17. #177
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    She lives once again!!!!

    Only thing wrong at this point is that the water reservoir leaks on the tube going down. It doesn't hold too much pressure. It is a very very slow leak and leaks under temp. This issue I can handle at this point.

  18. #178
    Senior Member xxguitarist's Avatar
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    Did you re-measure valve lash & replace buckets/shims on the new head?
    -Andrew

    Building 818S/R #297 with Tamra
    08 Mazdaspeed3 | '12 F800R | '97 Miata

  19. #179
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by chedda View Post
    All the goodies from the old head were still good thankfully. I transferred all the parts to the new/used head. It was already machined and ready to rock and roll. I put the head on and sealed it up. I had to wait for the half moons to dry before I can add oil and stuff. The cam gears have to be tightened and the timing belt still needs to go back on. Hopefully after all the double and triple checks, we can start it again tonight
    Chedda,
    Did you do all this with the engine in the car?
    Bob
    818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
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  20. #180
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    Quote Originally Posted by xxguitarist View Post
    Did you re-measure valve lash & replace buckets/shims on the new head?
    Absolutely!

    Quote Originally Posted by Bob_n_Cincy View Post
    Chedda,
    Did you do all this with the engine in the car?
    Bob
    Having ARP head studs makes life so much easier. I totally left the motor in while replacing the head this time around.

    The carnaged head....

    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by chedda; 07-21-2015 at 11:51 PM.

  21. #181
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    I've been busy trying to get to this point but here is a drive. The reference in the beginning were to my friends not believing me that it doesn't run/drive.


  22. #182
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    Congrats! Despite the issues you had with the engine, you got to go-kart stage pretty quickly.

  23. #183
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    Thanks!

    I do however have to drain the coolant this weekend for an extra little cooling goodies being installed. New mishimoto radiator and something a little more powerful to pump the coolant through the system. Too many blown motors on the forums due to cooling issues. I am making damn sure it won't happen again.

  24. #184
    Senior Member wleehendrick's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by chedda View Post
    Thanks!

    I do however have to drain the coolant this weekend for an extra little cooling goodies being installed. New mishimoto radiator and something a little more powerful to pump the coolant through the system. Too many blown motors on the forums due to cooling issues. I am making damn sure it won't happen again.
    Congrats on the 1st drive! Are you putting a AWIC in? That'll provide more protection for the motor than just upgrading the radiator.

  25. #185
    Senior Member Tamra's Avatar
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    I believe the primary cooling issue is the intercooler temps, not the engine coolant temps. The OEM top mount intercooler does not do well due to lack of cold airflow, so most people are switching to an AWIC. I don't think I've seen anyone on the forums have cooling problems relating to the OEM radiator.
    Tamra
    Building 818SR #297 picked up 10/25/14 with Andrew (xxguitarist)
    First start 12/21/14, First "drive" 1/17/15
    First Dyno at EFI Logics 3/7/15- 310whp at 15psi for break in, full spool by ~3500rpm!
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    1st Registered 818 in Connecticut 7/24/2015. 9 months - 1 day from kit pickup!

  26. #186
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    Quote Originally Posted by chedda View Post
    I've been busy trying to get to this point but here is a drive. The reference in the beginning were to my friends not believing me that it doesn't run/drive.

    Awesome! Congrats!

  27. #187
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tamra View Post
    I believe the primary cooling issue is the intercooler temps, not the engine coolant temps. The OEM top mount intercooler does not do well due to lack of cold airflow, so most people are switching to an AWIC. I don't think I've seen anyone on the forums have cooling problems relating to the OEM radiator.
    I've been trying to eliminate any kind of cooling issue that there might be. I will eventually go with a AWIC but haven't gotten that far.

    Thanks for all the help guys! I do appreciate it. It was hilarious driving this thing to the subaru dealership since it is just down the street from the house. I pulled all the managers, sales guys, tech guys, parts guys and even the owner since he was there. They were all asking questions and having a ball with it.

  28. #188
    Senior Member wleehendrick's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by chedda View Post
    It was hilarious driving this thing to the subaru dealership since it is just down the street from the house. I pulled all the managers, sales guys, tech guys, parts guys and even the owner since he was there. They were all asking questions and having a ball with it.
    I bet they were all...

    i-hear-a-subaru-where-is-it-cat.jpg

  29. #189
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    Is it sad that now that the car is go-kart mode, I've lost all interest in doing the body? I have odds and ends to do before the body but my god is this kit a piece of crap to put together. If I had someone with me that was going to help me be motivated, I'd finish it. I have zero fiberglass experience and it scares the hell outta me.

  30. #190

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    Oh no, I think maybe you have been reading the complaints by a few whiners who are having trouble getting body panels to fit. Many others of us have made things fit and look good but not posted our successes. I have no fiberglass experience but I'm able to think about how to make things fit, think twice before cutting/sanding, and ignore the few guys here who always complain. To get a running go-kart you've already cleared most hurdles so have confidence that you'll figure out the body and be cruisin' soon. Like your go-kart, it's just lots of baby steps so start by clamping the side sails and rear "bumper" in place. Don't let the whiners take you down.
    818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities.
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  31. #191
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    It's primarily a crap kit that we have to fabricate so much to get things to fit properly. FF still denies that there is a heating issue with the coolant system. Engineer this, engineer that, I was not expecting this much engineering to go into a kit of here, put this together. I'm just frustrated with the build process. My biggest gripe is the seat brackets at the moment. None of the brackets fit at all for the seats I have and they were mixed and matched from the get go. You don't know that you have the wrong brackets until you get to that point. If I had to do this all over again, I would have just bought an Alpha 4C. The time and money spent on this build to get this far would have paid for that car lol.

  32. #192
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    Just look forward to how awesome it will feel when things start fitting together Knowing that everything put into the car was customized by you. Nothing can be more exciting and make you more proud than knowing exactly the amount of effort put into your project

  33. #193
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    The body isn't the most fun, but it's doable. I likely won't do the major body filler others have done to make the lines perfect. Fill some voids or holes, yeah. But it'll be a 5 footer.
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  34. #194
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    I hear you Chedda. You don't need to know how to work with fiberglass to get it done though. And honestly glass work is pretty easy. Basically just buy glass cloth, wet the surface you apply it to with a good slow cure epoxy, then lay the cloth on, wet out with more epoxy, add more layers. You shouldn't need to do much, if any of that. But yes this isn't like working on an OEM vehicle where everything just bolts on. At the $10k kit price, I'm not sure how feasible that would be, but I'd certainly love it if it were like that!

    Check out my post here for some hints: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...l=1#post237176

    In the back, the engine cover, trunk, and rear bumper set the width of the side sails. Not much adjustability there. Pull up at the rear side sail fender arches and push inward onto their perches and bolt/clamp in place to get the gaps how you want back there. Use washers underneath if you need them.

  35. #195
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by chedda View Post
    I would have just bought an Alpha 4C.
    That's such a nice car, itsn't it? It's my second choice after the 818. But, take a break for a while then come back on the body and I'm sure you'll make it. Some other people here have done a lot of engineering on their kit that's not even in go-kart yet, there's no reason you can't. Maybe don't want to, but think of the result after some good work. You'll smoke those 4Cs in every aspect (but the carbon fibre frame, but the electronic cluster loll).
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 GT3582R ~400whp/wtq+
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017

    Bulid time, including registration 3283.5h in 148 work week time and 3.5 years elapsed

  36. #196
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    Ok guys, I know it has been a long time. I am resurrecting the build thread. I figured, I should post updates on the build. I can only do that with pictures.








  37. #197
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  38. #198
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Biker guy.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 GT3582R ~400whp/wtq+
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017

    Bulid time, including registration 3283.5h in 148 work week time and 3.5 years elapsed

  39. #199
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    The blue one is hers and the black one is mine. We have a riding relationship

  40. #200
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    Chedda, I lost my momentum last year and took most of it off, but when I returned, it was with renewed enthusiasm. I first tackled things that were obviously needing finishing before moving on to the next step. Next, I picked out something that I would have fun with, then throw in a mundane task or two, then back to some fun stuff. If my build takes 3 years, then so be it, four years, whatever, but there's no turning back at this point. Do I wish it were less complicated? Yes. Are there other cars I'd rather have built? Not really. I've looked at the rest of available kits and none fill my needs quite like the 818.
    You should think about visiting someone else who is or has built one of these. Maybe that will spur you to get back on course. You can do it!

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