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Thread: Silicon Prairie 818s Build

  1. #1
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    Silicon Prairie 818s Build

    Excited. First time FFR builder, but looking forward to the journey with my 14 year old son. ....Hoping this will be a creative way to have him off his phone or PlayStation for at least a few hours a week, and will create a life long memory for him.

    Here is my planned build:
    818s (Although may pivot to c later on so compensating for that)
    Kirkey seats and various other FFR Options including all the air flow mods
    Hybrid EJ257 (2.0 Heads) 91 Octane Map right now
    2002 WRX ECU
    Cobb TD05 20G Turbo
    Perrin Fuel Rails
    Deatschwerks DW300 Fuel Pump
    Cobb Fuel Regulator
    1050cc Cobb Fuel Injectors
    NGK Irridium IX Plugs
    TGV Delete
    Zero DB AWIC Kit
    Tomei Expreme Exhaust, Up pipe
    Mike Everson Stainless with Cat exhaust OEM Front and Rear 02 Sensors installed. No EGT
    iWire Harness
    No PS or AC (although wiring for it if I want to add later)
    FFR Wheels and Spec Tires
    Lots of mods for dress up of engine bay, cabin, etc,

    And so it begins...

    20160410_184659.jpg
    Last edited by mrbiglar; 04-14-2018 at 05:41 PM.

  2. #2
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    Does anyone have any good pics or diagrams on how to run emissions and vent hoses when you use a Zero DB (or similar) AWIC? Not tracking how you adjust. Have read the simplifying the EJ Part 1 and 2, but can't tell from the pcitures what you cap, what you don't etc.

  3. #3
    Senior Member wleehendrick's Avatar
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    Welcome! Sounds like a great plan.

  4. #4
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    Welcome, that sounds like a great engine setup and very similar to what I'm running. This thread contains pictures and descriptions of each of the engine hoses:
    http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2614458

    You can either remove the metal pipes off of the stock intercooler and plug them back into the vacuum hoses on the engine or replace them with some rubber hoses, Y-fitting and barb fittings. I got rid of many of the stock hoses and replaced them with some oil catch cans and new rubber hoses.

  5. #5
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    Not quite finished, but you get the idea:

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  6. #6
    Senior Member Pearldrummer7's Avatar
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    Welcome to the forum! I also am running a hybrid motor. If you're remotely close to me (upstate NY) you're welcome to visit and check out my 818. I think this is the coolest father-son project!!
    Frank - Build thread

  7. #7
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    Actually, I am in Iowa. I think I am one of the first 818 builds in the state. That said would love to come and taken a look at your setup
    Last edited by mrbiglar; 02-22-2018 at 06:33 PM.

  8. #8
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    STIPWRD....Cool. That makes sense. Didn't think to go the catch can route....trying to get rid of as many of the hoses as I can.

    One other quick item. Am I dreaming, or should there be a bracket between the turbo and the engine head? Went through my picture from the donor tear down and I don't think I took one of this area before I pulled the turbo and exhaust. Also, I get an error every time I try to insert an image to a post. Am I doing something wrong?

  9. #9
    Senior Member Solidworks-Mike's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrbiglar View Post
    STIPWRD....Cool. That makes sense. Didn't think to go the catch can route....trying to get rid of as many of the hoses as I can.

    One other quick item. Am I dreaming, or should there be a bracket between the turbo and the engine head? Went through my picture from the donor tear down and I don't think I took one of this area before I pulled the turbo and exhaust. Also, I get an error every time I try to insert an image to a post. Am I doing something wrong?
    There are two brackets. They bolt to the two extra studs on the up pipe.

    You can see them here (14421 and 14427):

    http://parts.subaru.com/a/Subaru_200...11-073-04.html

    After 25 posts you'll be bale to attach pictures.
    Last edited by Solidworks-Mike; 04-29-2016 at 12:15 AM.
    818-S 2.5L Turbo Chassis Number: 404
    Kit Order Date: February 19, 2016 Kit Completion Date: March 19, 2016 Kit Ship Date: March 26, 2016 Build Start Date: April 22, 2016
    Build Thread: Click Here

  10. #10
    Senior Member Rasmus's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrbiglar View Post
    I get an error every time I try to insert an image to a post. Am I doing something wrong?
    As much as I like our little community here. I host my images on Imgur. Accounts are free. You're able to host hunderds of pictures. Plus, you have the added beneift of being able to control your pictures a little better. You also don't commit the internet sin of linking to your images here on F.F. Forums when you visit other forums using F. F. Forums bandwidth.

    And welcome to the forum, btw.
    Fast Cars, Fast Women, Fast Haircuts!

  11. #11
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    Solidworks Mike - Interesting...when I used the same site to look up my year of a donor 2.0 Heads, it doesn't show the brackets. Thanks!

    Rasmus - ..Just wanted to give you a general thanks. I used a ton of your posts with the tear down, including the electrolysis.....my son thought it was the coolest thing ever, and my wife thought I was out of my mind :-)

    All - Thanks for the pics on hose routing..huge help. I am a visual learner. One other hose (I think emissions or vacuum question)...my stock TD04 Turbo has a t fitting on the small hose between the turbo and wastegate...the TD05 I purchased just has a slightly larger hose with no T, so it runs directly. Do I need to modify, or not care...or just came that way for me to modify. If modify, hose is a little bigger, so assuming I need to modify other hoses on the donor T?

  12. #12
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    Solidworks Mike - Never mind...figured it out. Forgot about the Air Duct Category vs. Turbo itself

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrbiglar View Post
    All - Thanks for the pics on hose routing..huge help. I am a visual learner. One other hose (I think emissions or vacuum question)...my stock TD04 Turbo has a t fitting on the small hose between the turbo and wastegate...the TD05 I purchased just has a slightly larger hose with no T, so it runs directly. Do I need to modify, or not care...or just came that way for me to modify. If modify, hose is a little bigger, so assuming I need to modify other hoses on the donor T?
    Your routing is a little different. My 2.5L heads have two hoses on each side. You just have the one. They'll go over the motor and connect and then T into the turbo inlet (plastic/silicone piece under the manifold).

    You need to modify the hose on the turbo. If you run the stock boost solenoid you'll T into it. you might need a restrictor pill (not sure on size or if you do). If you use a three port boost solenoid you'll go from the compressor to the solenoid then to the wastegate and the third line into the turbo inlet (the solenoid becomes the T).
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  14. #14
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrbiglar View Post
    One other hose (I think emissions or vacuum question)...my stock TD04 Turbo has a t fitting on the small hose between the turbo and wastegate...the TD05 I purchased just has a slightly larger hose with no T, so it runs directly. Do I need to modify, or not care...or just came that way for me to modify. If modify, hose is a little bigger, so assuming I need to modify other hoses on the donor T?
    The hose coming off the T-fitting on your TD04 goes to the boost control solenoid, which controls boost by bleeding air between the compressor and wastegate (i.e. keeping the wastegate closed to build boost). If your TD05 has a hose with no T, it means that your wastegate will open as soon as the compressor pressure overcomes the spring force inside the wastegate. This means you won't be able to build up that much boost and boost control will be purely mechanical (i.e. no ECU in the loop).

    Here's the stock setup
    boost controller connections.jpeg

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    Senior Member Rasmus's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrbiglar View Post
    Rasmus - ..Just wanted to give you a general thanks. I used a ton of your posts with the tear down, including the electrolysis.....my son thought it was the coolest thing ever, and my wife thought I was out of my mind :-)
    You're welcome.

    The electrolysis bucket of doom is always a crowd pleaser.
    Fast Cars, Fast Women, Fast Haircuts!

  16. #16
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    Did some research and going the 3 port route. Probably a GrimmSpeed or a Perrin. Off to do some work on the car for the weekend

  17. #17
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    Mechie3 - Your picture above. Is the bottom blue hose the one going to the crank case vent (the one with the plastic piece on it)? I am assuming yes, which means you have a two port version of the head vents. I only have one on each side...so assuming I need to y pipe that in?

    Also...anyone know why someone would cap off the other crankcase vent? (See Picture)

    http://imgur.com/gallery/Pw0HWwK/new
    Last edited by mrbiglar; 05-22-2016 at 10:08 AM.

  18. #18
    Senior Member wleehendrick's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrbiglar View Post
    Did some research and going the 3 port route. Probably a GrimmSpeed or a Perrin. Off to do some work on the car for the weekend
    I went with a COBB 3-port EBCS since I'm tuning with an AccessPort; Cobb has OTS maps for the 3-port that will be useful until a custom tune is put in. I don't know if the EBCS brand really matters, but the Cobb looked good, so I kept it 'in the family'.

  19. #19
    Senior Member Rasmus's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrbiglar View Post
    Also...anyone know why someone who cap off the other crankcase vent? (See Picture)
    People cap that off that port to the crankcase when they delete the PCV system. Stock, the PCV vents to vacuum post-MAF and pre-Turbo. This is so the engine can attempt to re-burn any blow-by. It's an emissions thing.

    While that's a great idea for the environment, and I love the environment, I'm also a car guy. And having the PCV dump to vaccum there causes the turbo compressor, compressor housing, intercooler, throttlebody, intake manifold and the backs of the intake valve to get covered in oil. With the valves, that oil-mist, eventually gets baked on. Also while you can combust the Oil-Mist... it's not exactly the highest octane addition to your Air-Fuel intake charge. It can cause your ECU to pull timing because the motor starts knocking from a low octane puff or two.

    That's why fellas run catch-can's, or vent to atmo, or vent to exhaust under vacuum (old-school baby!).

    Venting to atmo, is probably what your motor's previous owner was doing.
    Last edited by Rasmus; 05-02-2016 at 01:23 PM.
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  20. #20
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    Any opinions on whether you truly need to install both Turbo mounting brackets? Reason I ask is for weight, and I have a broken off bolt for the larger bracket on the inside

  21. #21
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    Started on the under body aluminum today. Went on a little easier than I thought. although 3 drill bits later I learned to be a little more patient :-)

    Question. I silicone sealed across each cross bar or edge, but there are some pretty big gaps where the frame isn't perfectly aligned. Should I rivet them together past the frame, silicone seal the edges, leave it? Doesn't look very good in my opinion

    http://imgur.com/OBovfDx

  22. #22
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    Great progress made on the engine and transmission this week. Have everything I want done ahead of putting them in the car.

    http://imgur.com/a/Ibv9u

  23. #23
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    Finished the bottom this evening. Decided to go with Herculiner for both durability and for noise reduction

    http://imgur.com/a/D8ABY

    Moving on to the firewall aluminum. Think I am going to go with the Herculiner Gray...

  24. #24
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    Working on the front part of the cockpit today....confused. The picture in the manual doesn't show a hole in the front left vertical piece, but the actual aluminum does on both sides? Was there a design change, and the manual (Version 1q) was not updated? Seems odd there would be a hole straight into the cockpit on both sides, or what am I forgetting?

    Image from the manual
    cockpit.gif

    Picture of my cockpit, with pieces in
    <a href="http://imgur.com/iyMIAni"><img src="http://i.imgur.com/iyMIAni.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrbiglar View Post
    Working on the front part of the cockpit today....confused. The picture in the manual doesn't show a hole in the front left vertical piece, but the actual aluminum does on both sides? Was there a design change, and the manual (Version 1q) was not updated? Seems odd there would be a hole straight into the cockpit on both sides, or what am I forgetting?

    Image from the manual
    cockpit.gif

    Picture of my cockpit, with pieces in
    <a href="http://imgur.com/iyMIAni"><img src="http://i.imgur.com/iyMIAni.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>
    They made a revision there is a panel that ends up covering that half. Here is a pic not the best but what I had in my phone while I'm away from my garage ATM. Let me know if you need a better one.image.jpg

    Also I'm in Omaha NE! Your not to far away Midwest 818 meet! Haha

  26. #26
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    Ah.... I found them in the box with all the Aluminum. Makes sense. On meeting. Absolutely. I hope to have mine driveable by the Fall...we will see

  27. #27
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    Good progress last weekend on the front and rear suspension, steering.
    http://imgur.com/Kp0xgXh
    http://imgur.com/MgT7Ecw
    http://imgur.com/rIpWEDN

    Working on the cockpit aluminum while I wait for my knuckles to have new bearings and hubs pressed in.
    http://imgur.com/mUwKvbt
    http://imgur.com/36VjKsT
    Last edited by mrbiglar; 07-04-2016 at 07:59 PM.

  28. #28
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrbiglar View Post
    Good progress last weekend on the front and rear suspension, steering.
    http://imgur.com/Kp0xgXh
    The steering rack looks a bit crooked. You may want to measure it with a level and make sure you used the correct spacers. I had a similar issue and had to shim an extra 1/4" under the driver side.

  29. #29
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    Good catch. I am putting on the knuckles tomorrow, so will double check.

    Thanks!

  30. #30
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    Anyone else had trouble getting the Aluminum Control arms into the bottom vs. top front hole. I have tried everything I can think of other than deciding to bend the back hole on the frame out. Thoughts?

  31. #31
    Moonlight Performance
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    I've had a lot of issues with that. When they weld the tabs, the tabs distort a bit and cause this issue. I just bent my tabs out. Don't worry about going a little too far - the bolts will pull them back in.

  32. #32
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    That helps...thanks

  33. #33
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    OEM Pedalbox Alignment to Frame



    Has anyone else had issues where the top holes on the pedal box will not align properly with the frame?

    20160803_215145.jpg

    All the front bolts are all the way in, including the ones on the clutch master cylinder. Seems like either the holes on the frame are off, or the pedal box is? Any ideas how to correct other than just drill out the holes to match?

  34. #34
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    Have not posted in awhile, so thought I would provide some updated pictures

    Engine Mounted Used Perrin Mounts. Love them and the feel. Clutch in as well
    http://i.imgur.com/wbyM32e.jpg
    http://i.imgur.com/xHWH641.jpg
    http://i.imgur.com/SAHTtQR.jpg

    Transmission Mounted Used Perrin Mounts here as well. Had a little trouble getting the holes to line up in the back. Ended up trimming a little
    http://i.imgur.com/vFyzMCM.jpg
    http://i.imgur.com/9U2jgrW.jpg
    http://i.imgur.com/bfyTSRl.jpg

  35. #35
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    Lizard Skinned the cockpit yesterday and today. I used both the sound control and ceramic insulation. Very impressed. Love how easy it easy is sprays on, and the consistency. Definitely need to scuff and prime, especially the aluminum.

    http://i.imgur.com/aZaJ4Fs.jpg
    http://i.imgur.com/iL9Iqs4.jpg
    http://i.imgur.com/pydbcE7.jpg
    http://i.imgur.com/6UZlWgk.jpg
    Last edited by mrbiglar; 08-18-2016 at 10:52 PM.

  36. #36
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    Does anyone know if FFR changed the gas line rubber? Below is what I received in the kit, but the instructions show a different product. It looks like there is 3 inches of rubber I can cut off the end, but then the stsinless line isn't straight like what the picture shows in the manual

    http://i.imgur.com/hJE99Qw.jpg

  37. #37
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    Finished the pedal box and master cylinders today. My OCD isn't dealing with the angle in the BMC very well....I used the replica parts mount. I should have straightened it out....didn't think about it. I also don't like the gap in the hole, since I am not using the booster.
    http://i.imgur.com/Aw6lXo0.jpg
    http://i.imgur.com/T83UsEp.jpg

    Gas Tank and new Wahlbro Pump are also in
    http://i.imgur.com/jfqNaM9.jpg
    http://i.imgur.com/bqRSYfp.jpg
    http://i.imgur.com/AEVmTGj.jpg

    Steering Column
    http://i.imgur.com/LoNm4ex.jpg
    http://i.imgur.com/LoNm4ex.jpg

    It is starting to look like a real car...really cool
    Last edited by mrbiglar; 08-20-2016 at 10:18 AM.

  38. #38
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    I received the same fuel hose. You cut that hose up and really just use the straight sections, one on the bottom to the tank and one on the top to the filler cap.

    Looking good.

    Skip
    Last edited by lclevert; 08-19-2016 at 09:02 AM.

  39. #39
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    Makes sense. Thanks for the help

  40. #40
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    Put in Perrin Fuel Rails...Question. I didn't see anything in the FFR Manual about re-using the Fuel Pressure Regulator Damper? I thought on the Subaru fuel system you needed both the regulator and damper in the system?

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