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Thread: Chedda's 818S build thread

  1. #41
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    Well, I gotta put the project on hold for a couple of days. I ended up getting sick. We had our first snow last night and I wasn't up for the challenge on working on the car. What I can do for you guys is provide a pic of the progress on the front end.

    http://i.imgur.com/J2jWhCb.jpg

  2. #42
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    First, get well.
    Second, until the last few words, I thought you were to provide us a pic of the damn snow, but thankfully you posted a car pic.
    Third, which brings me to a question, I can't clearly see due to the angle, but were you able to screw all the threads in on the longer sleeves of the UCA?
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
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    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  3. #43
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    The UCA has not been tightened down yet. I wanted to get all pieces on first and then adjust. I havent gotten that far.

  4. #44
    Senior Member RM1SepEx's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by chedda View Post
    Well, I gotta put the project on hold for a couple of days. I ended up getting sick. We had our first snow last night and I wasn't up for the challenge on working on the car. What I can do for you guys is provide a pic of the progress on the front end.

    http://i.imgur.com/J2jWhCb.jpg
    The right side triangle piece is mounted wrong, the holes are supposed to be on the vertical tube in front of the end of the tunnel, one hole for the shift cable the other big one for wiring
    Dan

    818S #17 Picked up 8/1/13 First start 11/1/13 Go Kart 3/28/14

  5. #45
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RM1SepEx View Post
    The right side triangle piece is mounted wrong, the holes are supposed to be on the vertical tube in front of the end of the tunnel, one hole for the shift cable the other big one for wiring
    While we're being picky. You are missing the aluminum block off plate behind the master cylinder.
    I would not fix the triangle. Drill a new hole for the shifter cable. Use the existing holes for wiring.
    Happy building
    Bob
    Last edited by Bob_n_Cincy; 11-12-2014 at 10:51 AM.
    818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
    My Son Michael's Turbo ICE Build X22 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rts-818S-Build
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  6. #46
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    the aluminum block off plate, I could not find in the kit. I looked in all the boxes and found none.

    everything else, what?

  7. #47
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    It's in a small bag with some other aluminum parts. It should be with the rest of the sheet metal aluminum or the expanded metal mesh.

  8. #48
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by chedda View Post
    the aluminum block off plate, I could not find in the kit. I looked in all the boxes and found none.

    everything else, what?
    Here is where the book says the hole go.
    P1050076s.jpg
    818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
    My Son Michael's Turbo ICE Build X22 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rts-818S-Build
    My Electric Supercar Build X21 (on hold until winter) http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-Build-Thread

  9. #49
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    oh snap! uhhh shwing... LOL

  10. #50
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob_n_Cincy View Post
    Here is where the book says the hole go.
    P1050076s.jpg
    The short sleeve of your UCA is toward the rear?
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  11. #51
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frank818 View Post
    The short sleeve of your UCA is toward the rear?
    Yes, yours are backwards. see below.

    attachmentH90J663S.jpg
    818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
    My Son Michael's Turbo ICE Build X22 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rts-818S-Build
    My Electric Supercar Build X21 (on hold until winter) http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-Build-Thread

  12. #52
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob_n_Cincy View Post
    Yes, yours are backwards. see below.

    attachmentH90J663S.jpg
    Yeah that's an old picture. I switched back months ago.

    Then why did I ask the question?
    Last edited by Frank818; 11-12-2014 at 01:09 PM.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  13. #53
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    in the instructions, it showed that as followed for the UCA to have the shorter arm in back.

  14. #54
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    That's correct and I must have known cuz I checked again yesterday for another reason. I guess I need some vacations...
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  15. #55
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    I got some sad news everyone... I was replacing the heads on the motor and while putting on the new heads, the headbolt snapped. So now I am in search for a new block. Unfortunately it is outside my scope on how to do. A couple of guys on the south denver subaru club page are helping me out. Hopefully I will have an update after the holidays.

  16. #56
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Yeah that's sad news. I know how you feel, I've been through a ton of such sad news cuz of one other person.

    Does it block you from moving on on other things on your build or you can still progress somewhere else?
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  17. #57
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    Why do you need a new block?
    Zero Decibel Motorsports
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  18. #58
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by chedda View Post
    I got some sad news everyone... I was replacing the heads on the motor and while putting on the new heads, the headbolt snapped. So now I am in search for a new block. Unfortunately it is outside my scope on how to do. A couple of guys on the south denver subaru club page are helping me out. Hopefully I will have an update after the holidays.
    Chedda
    please explain why this is a big deal.
    My first thought is to take the head off and use an easy out screw extractor then reassemble. There must be more to your decision to get a new block.
    Bob
    818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
    My Son Michael's Turbo ICE Build X22 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rts-818S-Build
    My Electric Supercar Build X21 (on hold until winter) http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-Build-Thread

  19. #59
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    Sorry to hear it Chedda. Were you re-using an old head bolt or something? Do you know why it broke?

    If you can't extract it yourself, I'm sure a machine shop could do it for you.

  20. #60
    818 builder metalmaker12's Avatar
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    Why do you need a new block, you can get it out, or a macine shop will. You certainly don't need a new block man.
    818S frame #13 Jdm version 8 ej207

  21. #61
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    The reason for the new block is because the steel head bolt (re-used) snapped in the threads while trying to tighten it down to spec (75lbs). I got to 35 lbs of torque and it snapped. The bolt goes into the block 3-4 inches before it starts to thread. I guess about 1.5 inches of thread is stuck inside the block. It is highly recommended by all shops and subaru to replace the block. Yes, a machine shop could drill it out and then use a larger bolt with thread but you would have to do it on every single one. Now it is out of spec and trying to find the right threads in the size could be dangerous. Instead of hassling with it, a new block it is.

  22. #62
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    You can still extract the part of the bolt that broke off in the block without drilling the hole out and making it bigger. Just saying, you don't have to scrap your block. All you need to do is drill a small hole into the part of the bolt that is broken, and use a bolt extractor bit to pull out the thread. The thread is just sitting there and should spin out easily since there's no bolt pre-tension anymore. I've used this technique before multiple times. Since it's a deeper hole as you mention, I'd recommend securing the block on a drill press or mill for stability. Once the broken bolt is out, chase the threads and you're good to go.

  23. #63
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by STiPWRD View Post
    You can still extract the part of the bolt that broke off in the block without drilling the hole out and making it bigger. Just saying, you don't have to scrap your block. All you need to do is drill a small hole into the part of the bolt that is broken, and use a bolt extractor bit to pull out the thread. The thread is just sitting there and should spin out easily since there's no bolt pre-tension anymore. I've used this technique before multiple times. Since it's a deeper hole as you mention, I'd recommend securing the block on a drill press or mill for stability. Once the broken bolt is out, chase the threads and you're good to go.
    When drilling the small hole in bolts that is way down in there. I use a bushing around the drill bit to keep it centered. With this method a drill press really isn't necessary.
    Bob
    818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
    My Son Michael's Turbo ICE Build X22 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rts-818S-Build
    My Electric Supercar Build X21 (on hold until winter) http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-Build-Thread

  24. #64
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    The problem I need a drill bit long enough that is on the smaller side. Anything that is too long, it will snap.

  25. #65
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    I drilled a 1/16" hole in a titanium piece with a 6" long drill bit the other day. I had to be careful, but it was doable and precise enough to press in a roll pin when I was done.

    If you want a new block it's a good excuse to get a new one. If you don't want one/budget won't take it you don't need a new one.
    Zero Decibel Motorsports
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  26. #66
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob_n_Cincy View Post
    When drilling the small hole in bolts that is way down in there. I use a bushing around the drill bit to keep it centered. With this method a drill press really isn't necessary.
    Bob
    I like the bushing idea but since a small drill bit needs to be used, the drill is still prone to tilting if held by hand, which can snap the bit. A drill press or mill will keep everything square.

    Quote Originally Posted by chedda View Post
    The problem I need a drill bit long enough that is on the smaller side. Anything that is too long, it will snap.
    Correct, doing the repair is easier said than done but a drill bit is much cheaper than buying a new block. I'd at least give it a shot. Good luck either way

  27. #67
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by STiPWRD View Post
    I like the bushing idea but since a small drill bit needs to be used, the drill is still prone to tilting if held by hand, which can snap the bit. A drill press or mill will keep everything square.

    Correct, doing the repair is easier said than done but a drill bit is much cheaper than buying a new block. I'd at least give it a shot. Good luck either way
    The drill bit really isn't that small.
    For the M11 bolt the recommended drill bit is 1/4"
    I don't have a drill press or a mill that an engine block will fit in.

    About 2 years ago I had a starter snap off the bottom of my boat engine.
    (mercruiser small block chevy)
    We only had about 5" of clearance between the bottom of the boat and the engine block.
    Using an angle drill with bushing drilled the hole. Could not even see what we were doing.
    Tapped in eazyout and the bolt came right out.

    Question For Chedda.
    With the head off, how deep is the broken off bolt?
    Bob
    Last edited by Bob_n_Cincy; 11-20-2014 at 10:22 AM.
    818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
    My Son Michael's Turbo ICE Build X22 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rts-818S-Build
    My Electric Supercar Build X21 (on hold until winter) http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-Build-Thread

  28. #68
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    I'll take pictures for you guys tonight and post them. I have avoided the garage since it happened.

    Edit:

    Pics of the bolt that snapped.

    http://imgur.com/a/ZJdVk
    Last edited by chedda; 11-22-2014 at 12:06 AM.

  29. #69
    Senior Member TahoeTim's Avatar
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    back to the front UCA's.

    Do the grease zerks go up or down?

    Yours are up on one side and down on the other. I reassembled mine so they were up.

  30. #70
    Senior Member RM1SepEx's Avatar
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    put them however you like, the effective position of the pivots does not change, up or down... the suspension is defined by a line through the center of the ball joint pivot and the center of the inner arm pivot. Mine are facing down
    Dan

    818S #17 Picked up 8/1/13 First start 11/1/13 Go Kart 3/28/14

  31. #71
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    Gaskets, ARP studs and the new motor will be here this week. Woot!

  32. #72
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    Keith at SixStar has once again delivered! I'd like to thank him for a great price on the new motor and being pretty lax on the getting the old motor to him. I can't wait to start working on the new motor tonight

  33. #73
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    Congrats!!! Glad to see things worked out.

  34. #74
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    Quote Originally Posted by coloskydiver View Post
    Congrats!!! Glad to see things worked out.
    Thanks!

    I have started working on the motor. YAY!!!! I have the heads on and that is about as far as I got last night. I had a buddy get a flat and he didn't know how to change a tire. I lol'd for a second and took his man card. Let me tell you, he knows how to change a tire now.

    updated pics
    http://imgur.com/a/kKJru

  35. #75
    Senior Member wleehendrick's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by chedda View Post
    I have started working on the motor. YAY!!!! I have the heads on and that is about as far as I got last night.
    Congrats... good luck with the build!

    Quote Originally Posted by chedda View Post
    I had a buddy get a flat and he didn't know how to change a tire. I lol'd for a second and took his man card. Let me tell you, he knows how to change a tire now.
    Seriously? Who didn't learn that in drivers' ed? I would have told him to call AAA! The last buddy I had to rescue on the side of road really deserved all the **** we gave him. A bunch of friends were up at Mammoth Mountain; we had skied all day, partied that night. Around midnight one friend who was coming up late called to say he ran out of gas on the highway a few miles short of Mammoth. For those of you who don't know, if you're driving in the High Sierras in winter, you go prepared! chains, water, blankets, etc... (remember the Donner Party?) running out of gas is just so foolish. Well I hopped in the Audi and came to his rescue. His excuse? He filled up before leaving and always made it on one tank before!

  36. #76
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    Quote Originally Posted by wleehendrick View Post
    Congrats... good luck with the build!
    Thanks!

    another update for tonight. I started working on the motor and taking things off the old. I got to the water pump and by gholly, work called. Being on call sucks. Finished the work crap 3 hours later. I came back outside and finished lots of things.

    pics
    http://imgur.com/a/3WeIB

  37. #77

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    Dont forget to install the back timing covers before putting on the pulleys.

  38. #78
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    I don't have the covers. I'm not going to worry about the covers :P

  39. #79
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    They are cheap from the dealer and if some road debris kicks up or falls down into there, you run the risk of bending valves due to timing belt interference, breakage, etc

  40. #80
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    Well, I was able to almost finish up the motor over the weekend.

    Things that are left

    Oil pan install
    Oil cooler transfer (stuck hose on old block)
    2 coolant rubber hoses need to be replaced (knicked while taking the old block out)
    Cam gears for the passenger side (stuck gears - the threads or bolt is not stripped, just being a PETA)
    New engine mounts need to be purchased - the old ones got munched pretty good

    Pics!
    http://imgur.com/a/9TPRl

    Let me know if the headers would not work. It would be a bummer

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