What iteration is my Roadster? MK 1, 2, 3 or 4? Was built in 2004.

[1965cobra302]

cobra 8.jpgI bought my FFR Roadster already built and am not sure if it's a Mk 1, 2, 3 or 4. I am pretty sure it isn't a 4 because it doesn't have the round tube cross member up front.


Thanks for your help,


Greg

[skullandbones]

Hi Greg,

It's most likely a 2 or 3. Someone could have had it in storage or bought a used kit and built it so it could be earlier. If the steering shaft comes out the front of the foot box it is a 3 and if it comes out the inside (next to the engine) and has a support bearing on the shaft as it goes forward to the universal at the front it is an earlier model. Also, the frame number is a clue. Mine is RD6046 from Apr 2007 and it is a MKIII. If you have all the paper work, the answer could be there as well. Sometimes the investigative side of this is as interesting as the building and upgrading.

WEK.

[rmiller64]

Beautiful Roadster! Congratulations

[jceckard]

Congrats. Maybe the info is embedded in the VIN?

[1965cobra302]

cobra 7.jpgThank you for your quick response, it's appreciated. I have the assembly manual but not the build sheet. May I ask where the frame number is located? I have a VIN number but don't know if that has the kind of information that a regular vehicles VIN has? My VIN # is IA followed by 6 #s. I read a book by Carroll Shelby (Shelby's Wildlife) in 1977 and have loved the Cobra since. In my view, the best looking car on the planet. There are no bad angles, looks good from anywhere. I'm thankful for FFR making an accurate, affordable version that so many can enjoy. I love my car.

[edwardb]

Learned from your two pics:
- Mk2 or earlier. Definitely not Mk3 or Mk4. Most obvious because of the steering column location described by WEK.
- 5.0 engine with fuel injection
- Manual steering and brakes
- Cable clutch (vs. hydraulic)
- Shorty headers (vs. 4-into-4's)
- Heater, no wipers
- Hood pins vs. hinges
Mk3 and Mk4 chassis numbers are on the 2 inch tube just below the steering column by your left knee. As I recall, earlier models are in a different location. Others will know.

[68GT500MAN]

Chassis numbers on the early (MKI and MKII) were welded in the square tube behind the seat (not visible with the body on). The VIN you see was applied by whatever state the car was first registered in (here in California, the CHP applies a blue tag to the frame).
Doug

[Jeff Kleiner]

Taking edwardb's extrapolation a little further---in the underhood photo I can see Pole Position/SPC upper control arms which would peg it as a Mk2 (or perhaps a Mk1 that got reconfigured and updated but not likely).

Enjoy it Greg!

Jeff

[1965cobra302]

I want to thank all of you for your information and let you know I like all the cars on here. For an earlier model it's in spectacular condition. I should have mentioned it had a whopping 5200 miles on it when I got it four weeks ago. I've already put 1000 miles on it which is more impressive when you understand I live in Iowa and haven't had a lot of good weather. I'm in it every chance I get. I am gad there are so many people out there that enjoy the same type of experience.

Thanks to all,

Greg

[skullandbones]

Hey Greg,

I think you will find as you become more familiar with your roadster and others around you that the MK number doesn't really matter. Some of the best ones I've seen are well build MK I and IIs. It's the care and attention to detail from each builder. You have a nice roadster there. Learn as much as you can about it from help from the forum guys and other research. It will make your journey even better. Glad to see you on the forum. WEK.

[CraigS]

Looks just like my MkII

[1965cobra302]

I am a Journeyman Machinist and also used to do body work so I really planned on building my own car. 10 years ago, I filled out an order sheet from FFR and by the time I added the options I had to have, I was over $20,000. So I started tracking FFRs on Ebay and found I could purchase one already built for another $5,000 or so. 10 years later I found what I believe to be a decent deal. I had to sell my 1991 Mustang GT 347 stroker with nitrous (10 sec car) and apply that money to my new toy. My only regret is that I didn't do it sooner. The person who built my car did it almost exactly how I would have except I might have put a stroker in it. Probably good it has a moderate 302 so I don't get into trouble. Great to be on this sight and be able to exchange ideas with like minded people.

[jakester888]

I am a Journeyman Machinist and also used to do body work so I really planned on building my own car. 10 years ago, I filled out an order sheet from FFR and by the time I added the options I had to have, I was over $20,000. So I started tracking FFRs on Ebay and found I could purchase one already built for another $5,000 or so. 10 years later I found what I believe to be a decent deal. I had to sell my 1991 Mustang GT 347 stroker with nitrous (10 sec car) and apply that money to my new toy. My only regret is that I didn't do it sooner. The person who built my car did it almost exactly how I would have except I might have put a stroker in it. Probably good it has a moderate 302 so I don't get into trouble. Great to be on this sight and be able to exchange ideas with like minded people.

Great story.

[mrmustang]

cobra 8.jpgI bought my FFR Roadster already built and am not sure if it's a Mk 1, 2, 3 or 4. I am pretty sure it isn't a 4 because it doesn't have the round tube cross member up front.


Thanks for your help,


Greg

As stated already, it could be a MK I or MK II, open your trunk, take a picture and post it here and we can then tell you which one you have. Also if you know the FFR chassis number, that too will assist in identifying your chassis version.

Bill S.