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Thread: Trying to find a good engine/transmission

  1. #1
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    Trying to find a good engine/transmission

    Hey all, this is my first post. I am looking for advice on either what I need to get to build a 250-290 HP 302 computerless, or a good engine shop to work with that can build me one that I can just drop in. I do not understand engine internals, but am ready to learn. I am planning on building my '33 Hot Rod over the next 4-5 years. I am planning on ordering the Ford Windsor Small Block Performance book off of Amazon over the next couple weeks to help me learn the engine inside and out. I am looking forward to crossing build your own car off my bucket list over the next few years.

    Thanks,

    Galuf

  2. #2
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    Welcome to the forum and the FFR community. I didn't have any experience with engine building but I learned all I could from reading..books..online and youtube and I also got a SBF 302/351 engine rebuild video from ebay. Did it myself..it was easy and I am at about 320 HP crank...which is more than enough for a basic build. After that you are very traction limited anyways.

  3. #3
    Senior Member 68GT500MAN's Avatar
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    Welcome to the forum. If you are not set on building your engine, you can get a nice crate engine making your HP requirements ready to drop in for a good price.
    Doug

  4. #4
    Senior Member maczter's Avatar
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    Here would be a good start for your search at a decent price...

    http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ml...view/make/ford

    Add another grand for a carb, intake and distributor and you have a nice little motor.
    FFR HR #530
    Race car theme, Tim Whitaker roll bar, Autometer Autolite Gauges, Satin Black, SBC 383/700R4, 8.8 rear with Cobra Brakes, 3.29 gear, Boyd Tank, QA1 springs and shocks,

    My build blog: http://jacks33hotrod.blogspot.com/

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    That looks like a great deal...

  6. #6
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    I'm looking for almost 100HP less power though. I am planning on using the '33 as my daily driver, and I need something that won't be too overpowered when the Ohio snow hits each winter. I want something that is streetable in the snow. :-)

  7. #7
    Senior Member maczter's Avatar
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    You are going to drive this in snow? Brave man. With this car being so light, 2100-2300 lbs, ANY motor can give you traction issues. What part of Ohio are you in?
    FFR HR #530
    Race car theme, Tim Whitaker roll bar, Autometer Autolite Gauges, Satin Black, SBC 383/700R4, 8.8 rear with Cobra Brakes, 3.29 gear, Boyd Tank, QA1 springs and shocks,

    My build blog: http://jacks33hotrod.blogspot.com/

  8. #8
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Galuf1024 View Post
    I'm looking for almost 100HP less power though. I am planning on using the '33 as my daily driver, and I need something that won't be too overpowered when the Ohio snow hits each winter. I want something that is streetable in the snow. :-)
    Short of going with a stock donor style motor, or going really off the wall with a V-6 or something like that, a 302 crate motor is about entry level. I don't personally have any experience with it, but I don't quite buy the 390 HP noted for that Blueprint crate motor. That's pretty high without more exotic parts than what they list. A tried and proven start point is the Ford Racing 306 crate motor. Part number M-6007-X302. It's rated at 340 HP. Most reviews show it somewhere around that. Keep in mind that's at the flywheel. What you have end up with at the back wheels will be 15-20% less. Or in that range.

    Have to agree with comments that these may not be the best snow/cold weather cars. I agree with the comment that any engine is going to be challenging in the slippery stuff. With the right tires, careful driving, and easy on the accelerator and it could work. But it's going to be hard to duplicate the stability that modern cars with a little more weight, ABS, traction control etc., are able to deliver. For your sake, and those around you, may want to think about your plan a bit. JMHO.
    Last edited by edwardb; 12-11-2014 at 01:53 PM.
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  9. #9
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    I'm in western Ohio just a little south of Columbus, and I have years of snow experience. I'm planning on a set of Michelin X-Ice Xi3 tires for the winter roads, I've had good luck with them on my friend's Corvette, and also have a few years of Drifting experience in my past. :-) That's why I'm aiming for the lowest power range I can find in a 302.

  10. #10
    Senior Member maczter's Avatar
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    Hey Galuf....I am in Xenia, we will have to get together to talk about the 33, not too many of us in this area. If you are interested, I will message you my number. I just bought my Stage 2 kit and having a blast.

    On a lesser HP motor, this one popped up:

    http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hp...view/make/ford
    FFR HR #530
    Race car theme, Tim Whitaker roll bar, Autometer Autolite Gauges, Satin Black, SBC 383/700R4, 8.8 rear with Cobra Brakes, 3.29 gear, Boyd Tank, QA1 springs and shocks,

    My build blog: http://jacks33hotrod.blogspot.com/

  11. #11
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    I like that ATK one. Just found the stage 3 version, and I am thinking that is what I will go with. I'll call Summit Racing over the next few days, and make sure that It'll be good as a stage 3 kit to be computer free. I am not entirely sure what I have to do to be able to get rid of the ECM, but I don't want anything computerized in this car except the Stereo. :-)

  12. #12
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Galuf1024 View Post
    I like that ATK one. Just found the stage 3 version, and I am thinking that is what I will go with. I'll call Summit Racing over the next few days, and make sure that It'll be good as a stage 3 kit to be computer free. I am not entirely sure what I have to do to be able to get rid of the ECM, but I don't want anything computerized in this car except the Stereo. :-)
    That engine -- like most carb'd crate motors -- won't have an ECM. Won't see an ECM until fuel injection (EFI) is used. For the record, I don't think that particular engine is pictured correctly by Summit. The description says OE iron heads. The picture is aftermarket aluminum heads. I did a quick search on that mfg number, and it shows an Edelbrock carb, not the Quick Fuel pictured. The Ford Racing 306 I mentioned previously would be a better choice IMO. Aluminum heads and you can pick the best accessories for your build. About the same money.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
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    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

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    Getting ready to start a new build and looking for engine/transmission choices. Want something for cruising/street use, not the drag strip. Would like reasonably good performance and reliability. A turn key engine and transmission would be nice. We have read the link above, just looking for more options.

  14. #14
    Senior Member AJT '33's Avatar
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    This note may be a little late but have you considered an engine from a 2011-2014 F-150 that uses the same 5L Coyote engine (bottom end is exactly the same) as the Mustang GT of the same years with only minor differences in the HP and high end torque? I just got myself one out of a rear ended F-150 and it is exactly the same with only 30HP difference to the wheels but has more low end torque than the GT 5L coyote engine. The difference is a little different compression ratio but for the most part. I expect to use mine as a daily driver so even if I did nothing I would have 400 RWHP due to the lighter weight of the car even if the motor specs at 360 in the truck.
    Here is a link on the motor in the F-150, you can also see what the GT uses as well. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Modular_engine look about half way down the page for the 5L 4V motor. You get 412 hp (307 kW) at 6500 rpm, 390 lb·ft (529 N·m) at 4250 rpm from the 2011-12 GT, and you get 360 hp (268 kW) at 5500 rpm, 380 lb·ft (515 N·m) at 4250 rpm from the F-150. from a spec standpoint I have found virtually no difference in putting GT or even GT Cobra cams, lifters etc... on this motors foundation. Here is a picture of the motor once we got in on the engine stand to start working on it. 20150910_205237.jpg The engine cost me only $1700 USD, all I really need to do is add a transmission and a few other parts and I could start it and put it in for under about 5K!

    We expect that once complete we will have about 480-520 RWHP before we even think about putting a supercharger on it, if not more!
    if interested I have more links with more info if you would like more info.

  15. #15
    Senior Member 6t8dart's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AJT '33 View Post
    This note may be a little late but have you considered an engine from a 2011-2014 F-150 that uses the same 5L Coyote engine (bottom end is exactly the same) as the Mustang GT of the same years with only minor differences in the HP and high end torque? I just got myself one out of a rear ended F-150 and it is exactly the same with only 30HP difference to the wheels but has more low end torque than the GT 5L coyote engine. The difference is a little different compression ratio but for the most part. I expect to use mine as a daily driver so even if I did nothing I would have 400 RWHP due to the lighter weight of the car even if the motor specs at 360 in the truck.
    Here is a link on the motor in the F-150, you can also see what the GT uses as well. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Modular_engine look about half way down the page for the 5L 4V motor. You get 412 hp (307 kW) at 6500 rpm, 390 lb·ft (529 N·m) at 4250 rpm from the 2011-12 GT, and you get 360 hp (268 kW) at 5500 rpm, 380 lb·ft (515 N·m) at 4250 rpm from the F-150. from a spec standpoint I have found virtually no difference in putting GT or even GT Cobra cams, lifters etc... on this motors foundation. Here is a picture of the motor once we got in on the engine stand to start working on it. 20150910_205237.jpg The engine cost me only $1700 USD, all I really need to do is add a transmission and a few other parts and I could start it and put it in for under about 5K!

    We expect that once complete we will have about 480-520 RWHP before we even think about putting a supercharger on it, if not more!
    if interested I have more links with more info if you would like more info.
    Thats good info, i wish you would post an thread on how to do this with all the specifics and links, it would help a loot of us.

  16. #16
    Tool Baron frankeeski's Avatar
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    $1910 from your local O'Reily auto parts. Approx 225 HP from Ford when new. You'll need to finish up the engine with a front cover, water pump and add an intake, distributor and carb.

    http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...2239&ppt=C0332
    Frank
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  17. #17
    Senior Member AJT '33's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 6t8dart View Post
    Thats good info, i wish you would post an thread on how to do this with all the specifics and links, it would help a loot of us.
    It will be my intent to detail this as we build it during this winter. As my son is a mechanic he will be responsible to blueprint the engine to ensure that we do this correctly. At this point we are not finding very many differences (three to date) between the two, and you start with a complete engine other than the transmission, starter and alternator which most of us would change regardless. When I start the thread I will post what its called in this one. The adventure starts!!!

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