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Thread: Tanderson1's build thread..

  1. #241
    Senior Member tanderson1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC View Post
    On the harness and wiper washer pump.....that wire is part of the donor wiper harness...so there is no need for the painless harness to have that circuit. If you have the donor wiper harness, the pink wire runs direct from the column stalk switches to the washer pump. You will have to create your own ground for the pump.

    As for the 2 aluminum pieces, I think I used to know what those were for, but I have never used them....they end up going right in the alum recycling bin.
    Time to crack out the donor bins. I should have the old harness around somewhere.

    good to hear about the aluminum pieces not being required... i am however still curious what they are for.

  2. #242
    Member claybags's Avatar
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    Hi,
    The "L" shaped piece(if I remember correctly) was a drilling template for mounting the throttle pedal, and the other piece is used to mount the front clip cable release under the dash. …..maybe?
    Cheers, Jeff
    GTM 422, LS6, cam, heads, Mendeola trans

  3. #243
    Senior Member beeman's Avatar
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    I might have my C5 washer pigtail if you can't find yours, I'm using aftermarket.
    MK3.1 2004 Mach 1 donor. ABS, PS, TC.
    GTM #304 LPE 525hp LS3
    2000 C5 Lingenfelter [email protected]

  4. #244
    Senior Member tanderson1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by beeman View Post
    I might have my C5 washer pigtail if you can't find yours, I'm using aftermarket.

    Thanks for the offer, i think i know where it is, I will keep you posted. Its time for me to pull out the next set of parts anyway, my parts shelf is almost empty.

  5. #245
    Senior Member tanderson1's Avatar
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    I managed to find all of the wiring harnesses i need to modify (thanks again beeman for your offer)

    I decided now would be a good time to empty every parts box and pull out the next set of required parts.

    I found this close out panel that i had previously forgotten.
    20190406_090346.jpg 20190406_090359.jpg
    I think its to cover the vintage air unit and close out the rest of the tunnel. To be honest it would be a ***** to get it in there now but i honestly think it would cause problems. This closeout panel would prevent air from flowing though the tunnel, instead hot air will stew inside the tunnel. Anyone else leave this off their build? or were you happy that you added it.

    and as before, this is still bugging me... what is this last piece of aluminum for.
    20190404_211153.jpg

  6. #246
    Senior Member tanderson1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tanderson1 View Post
    and as before, this is still bugging me... what is this last piece of aluminum for.
    20190404_211153.jpg
    Ah ha, figured the aluminum piece it out.

    If you bend the 2 short tabs 90 degrees, and the long tab 30ish degrees and drill 2 holes in the wider tab, this hood release fits into it. Claybags was right on the money... i just didn't realize that the bracket had to be bent to make it work... the rest of the aluminum pieces are pre-bent. weird that this one is not.
    20190408_173834.jpg

    Also i opened the last box of parts in the garage today and found my wiper motor... I think i now know where everything is again.

    (PS i'm still looking for an answer to the question above about the Vintage Air cover plastics)
    Last edited by tanderson1; 04-08-2019 at 09:04 PM.

  7. #247
    Member claybags's Avatar
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    You can S---tcan the plastic cover, unless you can find a use for it around the garage.
    Cheers, Jeff
    GTM 422, LS6, cam, heads, Mendeola trans

  8. #248
    VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC's Avatar
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    Yes, you can toss the plastic cover. I think the original thought was that you could use the plastic cover to seal off the chassis in that area and leave out the front alum panel of the passenger footwell and that would allow the blower to pull air from inside the car and recirculate it thru the system. Problem is, there is no way to seal everything up to make that happen and absolutely no way to get that plastic cover in where it needs to be once everything is assembled. That is the main reason I came up with the blower relocate plenum to relocate the blower motor to the pass footwell instead of having it hang out under the hood sucking in hot air and everything that comes off the front tires.
    Shane Vacek
    VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC
    www.vraptorspeedworks.com
    Turn-key GTM, SL-C & Ultima GTR Built to Your Specs!
    Offering a full line of GTM Upgrades and Custom Parts

  9. #249
    Senior Member tanderson1's Avatar
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    Great to hear that i dont need it because it would be a TON of work to try to get it in there and sealed up. I tried to find as many GTM photos as i could and none of them had that plastic piece mounted.

    I spent tonight cleaning up my garage, it was starting to get a little hard to concentrate on one task. I have 28 feet of counter top to work on and not a square inch of it was clear.

    I then cleaned the wiper motor and cut off the old ball joint that wont be needed anymore. I also removed the rubber seal on the wiper motor.

    Here is my list of items to complete before i can mount the body
    • Mount the ODB2 connector by the steering wheel (to the square tubing between the console and the column
    • make a metal plate to fill the factory fuse panel hole in the back. Then mount the fan fuses and relays to it
    • My engine harness has a fuse block of 5 fuses... needs a place to live under the dash.
    • move the fuel pump filter to make room for the dual FF cold air intake.
    • finish off the wiring and test it all out
    • mount the passenger seat (driver side required some welding, i will do the same to the other side)
    • Weld nuts to the drivers seat brackets + paint black (so i don't need two wrenches to remove the seats)
    • finish the tunnel aluminum
    • finish bolting AC accumulator together (pressure test it)
    • Add the drain line to the AC unit and route it out the bottom
    • Wrap the headers
    • rivet in the front piece of aluminum above the AC unit.
    • Add the small piece of aluminum in the top of the passenger foot well
    • cut the holes in the top aluminum for the AC vent ducts
    • put safety wire on the rear axle bolts again (removed a while ago to fix something)
    • Mount the horn
    • make a bracket to support the Kooks exhaust
    • install the fuel tank vents + roll over valves
    • Install the fuel pump controller

  10. #250
    Senior Member tanderson1's Avatar
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    I started off this weekend by mounting the passenger seat, I cut some triangle pieces of metal to give me something solid to bolt the seat to.
    20190413_092530.jpg20190413_092530.jpg20190413_101953.jpg

    I welded the nut to the metal seat bracket so i can detach the seats easily without finding a way to get a wrench wedged under the seat
    20190413_104644.jpg

    At this point i drained and pulled out the fuel tank and started to dry run the tunnel aluminum into place. This is where i rean into my first problem. With the aluminum in place the parking break wont move. It turned out that i had to remove the wire from the bottom of the boot so it would move easier, then bend the parking brake handle toward the passenger side.
    20190413_123240.jpg

    gotta love clecos
    20190413_192128.jpg

    painted the metal triangles that i had welded in.
    20190413_192133.jpg

    I then riveted in the floor aluminum on both sides as it became evident that this piece has to be in before the tunnel aluminum.
    20190413_192154.jpg

    I cut a piece of metal to fit in the factory fuse box location. I then tapped in holes to mount the fan relays, fan relays and engine harness relays. I then primed and painted the plate and the seat brackets.
    20190413_192233.jpg

    I bought this on Aliexpress, it came today. It holds 8 relays and easily panel mounts. I will be using this for the lock/unlock, headlights, fog lights, hazard lights, etc.
    20190413_192253.jpg

    I have had this tap and die set for years and finally got to use it. After welding on the nuts the bolts started to foul where the hit the metal brackets, Chased the threads and cut the last few and all was well.
    20190413_192307.jpg

  11. #251
    Senior Member tanderson1's Avatar
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    my old makita grinder finally let out the magical smoke, so i went out and bought another one used for $60... was still in the box. Makita makes some solid tools, my last grinder was at least 20 years old.
    20190413_192313.jpg

    Everything mocked up now (had to come off one more time for silicone. After this i removed all of the aluminum from the tunnel, made a wiring harness for the AC compressor complete with an ECU wire and put it all into split loom with heat shrink on the ends. I then attached both of the front mounted Vintage Air vent lines to the Vintage air unit. It was at this point that i noticed that the vintage air electrical unit on top was mounted so tight to the aluminum panel that the connectors would not fit.
    20190414_101524.jpg


    Here you can see how i moved the Vintage Air electrical box. It was a pain in the *** to move as the screws were not not accessable. This one is on me, i should have noticed when i was mounting the foot box aluminum that i was blocking both the electrical connections and the mounting screws. I used a pair of needle nose channel locks to spin the screws out slowly from the top then bent the ends of the bracket out so i could mount it on the vertical aluminum on the passenger footwell. I also mounted a piece of rubber to the bottom of the control unit so it mounted tightly without it being able to vibrate when the car moves.
    20190414_161249.jpg

    Time to hit the other side, i removed the driver seat, floor, gas tank, etc. I also had to move some wiring harnesses that i stupidly put though the frame where the aluminum needed to mount.
    20190414_161304.jpg

    Before closing up the tunnel i drilled in 4 rivnuts and mounted the coolant lines as secure as possible.
    20190414_161311.jpg


    This is where i stopped taking photos but i did get some more stuff completed.
    • I mounted the small piece of aluminum to the passenger side foot well at the top and sealed all the holes
    • mounted all of the tunnel aluminum with sealant and rivets
    • Riveted on the AC compressor cover.
    • Mounted the front aluminum piece that mounts beside the master cylinders


    So here is my updated list
    • Mount the ODB2 connector by the steering wheel (to the square tubing between the console and the column
    • My engine harness has a fuse block of 5 fuses... needs a place to live under the dash.
    • move the fuel pump filter to make room for the dual FF cold air intake.
    • finish off the wiring and test it all out
    • Weld nuts to the drivers seat brackets + paint black (so i don't need two wrenches to remove the seats)
    • finish the tunnel aluminum
    • finish bolting AC accumulator together (pressure test it)
    • Add the drain line to the AC unit and route it out the bottom
    • Wrap the headers
    • cut the holes in the top aluminum for the AC vent ducts
    • put safety wire on the rear axle bolts again (removed a while ago to fix something)
    • Mount the horn
    • make a bracket to support the Kooks exhaust
    • install the fuel tank vents + roll over valves
    • Install the fuel pump controller


    And here are the 4 items i finished after my 18 hours in the garage.
    • mount the passenger seat (driver side required some welding, i will do the same to the other side)
    • rivet in the front piece of aluminum above the AC unit.
    • Add the small piece of aluminum in the top of the passenger foot well
    • make a metal plate to fill the factory fuse panel hole in the back. Then mount the fan fuses and relays to it


    as i type this my fingers can barely move, drilling holes and putting in a few hundred rivets is really hard on the hands.

    but i loved every minute of it.

  12. #252
    Senior Member beeman's Avatar
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    Great progress, sounds like things are moving along!

    One of the things about building the the GTM is packaging. How to get X into 0.9X space. Or maybe 0.8X space. Roadster builders don't get it (I certainly didn't at the time). OEM-based car builders don't have a clue. It really comes down to millimeters fairly often.
    MK3.1 2004 Mach 1 donor. ABS, PS, TC.
    GTM #304 LPE 525hp LS3
    2000 C5 Lingenfelter [email protected]

  13. #253
    Senior Member tanderson1's Avatar
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    I find myself still stumped with the AC wiring to the ECU.

    i already have a fan override relay that will kick the fans on when i ground it out. What i need now is the PCM to disengage the compressors clutch above a certain RPM. I believe the PCM will also slightly increase idle while the AC is on. (not sure if that is true, i read it on a corvette forum)

    I found the PCM pinouts for my factory C5 Corvette ECU.
    2002_pcm_red (1).gif2002_pcm_red2 (1).gif2002_pcm_blue.gif2002_pcm_blue2.gif

    As i mentioned (almost a year ago) in this thread these are the pins that i think i need.
    C2 Pin 14 A/C Refrigerant Pressure Sensor Signal
    C2 Pin 17 A/C Request Signal
    C2 Pin 18 A/C Compressor clutch supply voltage

    But it looks like these pins may also be involved.
    C2 Pin 43 A/C Clutch relay control
    C1 Pin 45 A/C 5 volt reference for Refrigerant Pressure Sensor

    So here is what i am currently thinking.
    • There has to be a way to program the PCM to ignore the pressure Sensor, I shouldn't need it as i believe that the Trinary switch does this already. This means i can ignore C1 45 and C2 14
    • I believe the request to turn on the AC compressor should go to pin C2 17 (my guess is pulling this to 12 volts tells the PCM that we are requesting the compressor to turn on)
    • I believe the C2 43 grounds out when all of the conditions are positive and the AC clutch should be engaged. I think this should be fed into a relay that drives the clutch on the compressor, or maybe its goes high to 12 volts when conditions are met?
    • c2 Pin 18 could help drive that relay above but is not required, i could just pull IGN +12 instead.


    Anyone out there done this before with a stock PCM?

  14. #254
    Senior Member beeman's Avatar
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    Have you looked at the Automatic and Manual A/C systems and A/C compressor schematics in the C5 wiring diagrams?
    Here's a link
    http://www.tuningconcepts.com/Cars/C...0%20WIRING.pdf
    MK3.1 2004 Mach 1 donor. ABS, PS, TC.
    GTM #304 LPE 525hp LS3
    2000 C5 Lingenfelter [email protected]

  15. #255
    Senior Member tanderson1's Avatar
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    Thanks Beeman, i think this will answer a lot of my questions. I am printing it out right now to study.

    I did not have a copy of the corvette wiring diagram, I searched on google before but there seems to be more miss information on the net the facts.

    Ok, here is what i learned from Beeman's fantastic document

    How to trigger the AC compressor
    - C1 43 goes to ground, this wires to a relay with a 10 amp fuse on the positive wire, the triggered lines of the relay go to +12V (on the same 10Amp fuse) and the compressor + line. The compressor Neg line goes straight to a ground.
    - I need a diode across the Compressor ground and 12V (not sure why, but not a problem)
    - C1 18 ties in to the switched 12V after the relay, this must sense the function of the relay. I assume a check engine light pops up if this is left out.
    - the pressure sensor is a variable resistor... should be able to fake this out with a resistor or just reprogram the ECU to not care.

    How to request the PCM to run the AC compressor
    - C1 17 is responsible (pg 752 of the GTM manual says that this wire color has to connect to the "blue 12V source wire from the Vintage air unit to the A/C signal wire (the vintage air power wire is Blue).")


    So i guess the only question left is around the lack of pressure switch signal. Will the ECU notice? Do i have to reprogram the ECU to ignore it?
    Last edited by tanderson1; 04-15-2019 at 09:36 PM.

  16. #256
    VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC's Avatar
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    You will have to wire in the donor C5 Trinary switch. FFR puts a port in the AC line specifically for that...you should see that port in the AC hose near the engine crank pulley. So in the end, the whole AC system is wired up just like it was in the Corvette.....the C5 Trinary switch will determine if/when the AC compressor will cycle as well as turn on the cooling fans if you have the cooling fans wired per the FFR manual so that they are controlled by the ECU. This is by far the easiest way to do it since you retain all of the production Corvette functionality including the ECU kicking the AC compressor off at WOT and above a certain RPM so you don't grenade your AC compressor, controls the idle speed when the AC is on, controls the cooling fans, etc.
    Shane Vacek
    VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC
    www.vraptorspeedworks.com
    Turn-key GTM, SL-C & Ultima GTR Built to Your Specs!
    Offering a full line of GTM Upgrades and Custom Parts

  17. #257
    Senior Member tanderson1's Avatar
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    i was wondering what that little port was for on the AC line. Now i know.

    I think the C5 sensor looks like this

    My donor is long gone but i think i kept all of the factory AC lines and wiring harnesses. I will have a look when i get home tonight.

    I only had an hour to spare last night, so i managed to rivet in the fuse panel closeout and mount my engine harness fuses and relays to it. The FFR cold air kit will still have enough room to fit.
    20190415_192516.jpg20190415_192536.jpg

    This is what all of the freshly riveted passenger side panels look like.
    20190415_192656.jpg

    With the little bit of time i had left i predrilled 2 of the 4 driver side tunnel panels.
    20190415_195732.jpg

    Tonight i only have an hour or so, but I should be able to figure out the C5 AC pressure switch and predrill the last 2 Tunnel panels.

  18. #258
    VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tanderson1 View Post
    i was wondering what that little port was for on the AC line. Now i know.

    I think the C5 sensor looks like this
    Yes, that is the correct sensor...and you will need the pigtail connector to go with it....which should be with the donor harness of course.
    Shane Vacek
    VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC
    www.vraptorspeedworks.com
    Turn-key GTM, SL-C & Ultima GTR Built to Your Specs!
    Offering a full line of GTM Upgrades and Custom Parts

  19. #259
    Senior Member tanderson1's Avatar
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    I found the sensor and the connector on the wiring harness. Tonight i will make some time to strip back the harness and de-pin them from the ECU connector. I should be able to just slide those pins into the new harness.
    20190416_185922.jpg

    I finished drilling all the holes for the rest of the tunnel aluminum. I should be done drilling for a while now :-)
    20190416_194727.jpg

    So am i correct in assuming that i no longer need the FF trinary switch that is mounted at the front. I believe the ECU will now handle that function as well as the activation of the fan's. So i should only need to supply the Vintage air unit with fused power and take the blue vintage air (activation) wire and splice it off to also feed the ECU A/C input.

    I also downloaded my local jurisdictions vehicle requirement list. I plan to go through all 83 pages and make sure that i have provisions for each requirement. It covers items like side marker lights and their locations, parking brakes, wipers, horn, etc and all of the specific laws around each one.

  20. #260
    VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tanderson1 View Post

    So am i correct in assuming that i no longer need the FF trinary switch that is mounted at the front. I believe the ECU will now handle that function as well as the activation of the fan's. So i should only need to supply the Vintage air unit with fused power and take the blue vintage air (activation) wire and splice it off to also feed the ECU A/C input.
    Correct.....there should be no need for the VA pressure/trinary switch at the front. The blue VA wire...no need to splice it into any other circuit....it should only run to the ECU "AC Request" input and that's it.....where else did you have that going?

    BTW....yes you do need the diode at the compressor coil connection and that is a shunt diode to dump the voltage spike of the compressor coil back into the coil. Just like an ignition coil, once the AC clutch coil (or any relay coil) is energized and then you disconnect power, the magnetic field collapses and creates a huge voltage spike. The ignition coils use this huge spike to jump the gap at the spark plugs. With the AC clutch, it just dumps that huge voltage spike back into the electrical system which can fry electronic components in a heartbeat. The diode takes that voltage spike and dumps it right back into the clutch coil to prevent the spike from ever happening.
    Shane Vacek
    VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC
    www.vraptorspeedworks.com
    Turn-key GTM, SL-C & Ultima GTR Built to Your Specs!
    Offering a full line of GTM Upgrades and Custom Parts

  21. #261
    Senior Member tanderson1's Avatar
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    I performed a little wiring harness surgery yesterday. I didn't have the original AC pressure switch connector as it sits on the opposite side of the large round connector on the engine harness and I no longer have that part of the harness. But good news, there is an identical connector on the engine harness with slightly different wire colors, also as a bonus if you use it the wire lengths are a perfect length to get from the factory GTM PCM location to the factory GTM pressure sensor location. The connector has a grey, black and brown wire. Grey and black match the old connector, the brown wire can be treated as if its red.

    Here is how I removed the old pins from the old harness and moved them to the new harness

    Step 1 remove the plastic colored plug end by inserting a small flat blade screwdriver into the left and right side of each colored plastic cap. Pull up on the colored cap at the same time. it will pop off.
    20190417_175329.jpg20190417_175347.jpg

    Now remove the plastic cap from the back with the same small flat blade screwdriver. There are 6 plastic clips that need to be pried off, i found it was easiest to work on them in pairs from left to right popping them out one by one being careful not to let them pop back into place.
    20190417_175406.jpg20190417_175500.jpg

    Now you can remove the pin by applying a slight amount of pressure to the latch and pushing the pin back through the connector (toward the wire side)
    20190417_175519.jpg

    Now strip back all the old wire loom and tape and you will have a stand-alone harness
    20190417_175754.jpg

    Apply new wire loom and heat shrink tubing to make it look like new.
    20190417_190139.jpg

    I then took apart my new engine harness and pushed each wire into the correct pin.

    I did the same for the AC request wire and AC trigger wire. Those two cables go from the PCM to the round connector as well. I took those wires and fed them into a new female weatherpac connector with some new wire loom. I will plug that female connector into a new male connector that will go though the tunnel toward the vintage air unit. I will place the relay and diode in the tunnel under right near the front of the engine. I started working on the diode and relay portion of the AC harness. I finished it but figured it was best to leave it out and double check all the wiring tomorrow.

  22. #262
    Senior Member tanderson1's Avatar
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    OK, onto the body portion of the wiring. Some of this may be wrong, looking for feedback

    5 pole relays
    - #1 High beam relay (use the 5th pole to disable the fog lights when the high beams are on)
    - #2 Door Locks (lock)
    - #3 Door Locks (unlock)
    - #4 Column In ? (this may be low enough current to not need a relay)
    - #5 Column Out ? (this may be low enough current to not need a relay)

    4 pole relays
    - #6 Fog light relay (wired through High beam relays off pole)
    - #7 Park light relay
    - #8 Horn
    - #9 Brake Lights

    Engine Bay relays
    - #1 AC Compressor Trigger
    - #2 Fan 1
    - #3 Fan 2

    Diodes
    - Hazard lights (left signal)
    - Hazard lights (right signal)
    - AC Compressor

    Hazard lights.
    I am going to wire them up like this photo
    Attachment 106028

    Brake lights
    At the peddle the switch needs 2 wires, one to the PCM to cancel cruise and the other to a relay to run to a relay that operates the brake lights.

    Fog lights.
    The fog lights cannot function at the same time as the high beams in my province (this is in the government regulations document). I plan to use the 5th pin on the high beams relay to deliver power to the fog light relay. This will ensure that they cannot be used together.

    High Beams
    Provincial rules again, i have to have a high beam indicator on the dash, a simple blue led drilled into the gauge cluster should take care of it.

    low beams
    Provincial rules , i need to have day time running lights in the front. I think i will run the low beam filament all the time, then use the high beam 5th relay pole to disable the low beam filament so i don't run both at the same time. The low beam switch on the column would just turn on the tail lights and the side marker lights (another provincial requirement)

    Side Markers
    By law where i live 4 side marker lights are required. two in the front (amber) and 2 in the back (red). These have to light up with the high beams and the low beams. This should also include the license plate light. I can use 2 diodes, one off the high beams and one off the low beams to run this circuit.

    License plate light
    Triggered along with the low beams or high beams, Just wire this into the same circuit as the Side Marker lights. (see above)

    Door Locks
    I need a lock and unlock wire to ground out for the alarm system, may as well use it for the center console as well.
    DoorAnimation1.gif

    Fans
    these are wired in to the PCM using 1 relay for each fan. I have located these relays next to the PCM in the engine bay.

    Cruise
    This all goes directly back to the PCM, I need one additional wire for the brake signal to head back to the PCM to cancel cruise.

    Reverse lights
    Ign + run back to the switch on the trans, then to the reverse lights. I am also going to feed the switched signal back up to the dash. I can use this to flip on a rear view camera.

    Radio
    Acc +, 12v+, Speaker left door, Speaker right door, Amp wire to run behind passenger seat, RCA cables to run behind passenger seat, then one last set of speaker wire between the passenger and driver seats. The end result would be some kind of deck or computer in the dash, a small amp behind the passenger seat and a sub-woofer behind the driver seat.

    Parking Lights
    I still need to figure this out, are these separate filaments in the bulbs? Do Parking lights turn on the side markers as well?

    Wiper Spray
    No relay, straight from switch to the pump.

    Wiper Speeds
    factory harness straight from column to motor.

    Power column
    There are 2 wires that control the motor and another pair of wires that look like they go to a variable resistor. I was thinking about making a little box that takes Acc and 12v+, the resistor outputs, the switch inputs and the motor outputs. This would then make note of the columns distance when turning off the ignition and restore it when turning the ign back on. I could use a small Arduino that goes to sleep until it sees Acc come back on so it draws very little power. I think i will create the wiring harnesses now and leave them under the column and finish this project later.

    Power Mirrors
    I need a switch (i found some online but they are very expensive). I think a trip to the junkyard should turn up a small switch with a joystick and a switch that selects the left and right mirrors. For now i will extend all of the passenger side mirror wires over into the driver side door. All of the logic and control will end up in the driver side door.

    Power Windows
    The two wires on the window motor for the driver and passenger door will both run to the center console. These then wire into the FF window motor switches. I plan to add a window roll up module to the alarm at some point. This will roll the windows back up. The viper alarm system needs a wire for up and a wire for down, the module then wires in between the switch and the motor. I have to sit down and work this one out on paper.

    Horn
    The horn needs a relay according to what i have read. seems easy enough.

    Heater
    There is a wire on the vintage air unit to trigger the heater bypass to stop bypassing. This will feed to a small vacuum pump, that will trigger the unit i bought that will send hot coolant though the vintage air unit. I don't think i need a relay for this.

    Alarm
    I think the right unit for me is the Viper 5904 2 way with remote start. This will need to wire into the lock/unlock, ignition, window motors, siren, horn.


    Things i may still add

    • HDMI or other cable to run a camera mounted to the back. I would also need power for that camera and a trigger reverse wire to make the whole thing turn on.
    • Door poppers, hooked to the alarm
    • dome light switches on the doors + a dome light. I think the remote start needs this as well.
    • 12v Acc (lighter plug)



    Do i have anything wrong? or am i missing something?
    Last edited by tanderson1; 04-19-2019 at 11:27 AM.

  23. #263
    Senior Member tanderson1's Avatar
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    I found some LCD mirrors that could work out.
    This one doesn't have the windshield mount but looks good.

    Same with this one.

    I like the Edge to edge LCD, I think i would just leave it in rearview mode at all time.

  24. #264
    Senior Member beeman's Avatar
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    Here's the one I ended up buying based on good reviews, but I haven't installed it yet.

    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H3NCMXN

    So the problem with a system like this is that I'm going to use it as a dedicated rear view mirror, but the rear cameras are wide angle so you can't really see what kind of traffic is coming up behind you.

    Does anyone know of a waterproof hi-res narrow angle camera to toggle with the backup camera?
    Last edited by beeman; 04-19-2019 at 07:24 PM.
    MK3.1 2004 Mach 1 donor. ABS, PS, TC.
    GTM #304 LPE 525hp LS3
    2000 C5 Lingenfelter [email protected]

  25. #265
    Senior Member tanderson1's Avatar
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    Beeman, that mirror looks great. Do you plan on mounting that to the kit mirror or modifying it to work on its own? I am also curious if the unit defaults to the rear view camera when the car starts or do you have to hit a button to get it into that mode. I also found this unit that has the windshield mount as well. Here is a list of cameras that may work with your unit, some of these should be narrow angle.

    had a few hours to spare today so i got a few things done.

    • Mounted the ODB2 connector by the steering wheel (to the square tubing between the console and the column. I used 2 rivnuts.
    • Added a series of rivnuts and wire clips to the foot wells and tunnel. These will be used to secure up wires so they don't get stuck in moving items like the power column
    • My engine harness has a fuse block of 5 fuses... it is now mounted under the dash securely.
    • Added the drain line to the AC unit and routed it out the bottom of the car
    • Found a home for the relay holder. I ended up putting it on the passenger side and will run the wires over, space is at a premium in the drivers foot well right now. It will hold 8 relays, although i may need more then 8 once the alarm system is added into the mix.
    • install steering wheel horn wire. This was harder then i planned. The ground ring that was supplied didn't fit, i had to modify it with the side grinder to get it to fit around the horn button. I also added the clock spring that i had bought previously.
    • Weld nuts to the drivers seat brackets + paint black (so i don't need two wrenches to remove the seat)
    • Completed a lot of wiring and put it in loom.


    on top of that i made another order, i picked up door switches (for the alarm/dome light), new power mirror switch, and 2 door lock solenoids.

    I think i have 1 or two more days of wiring and testing before i am ready to throw on the top aluminum and mount the body.

    If anyone has any input on the circuits that they put on relays because the switches coudn't handle the current i am all ears.... Painless instructions seem light on relays in my opinion.
    Last edited by tanderson1; 04-20-2019 at 12:31 AM.

  26. #266
    Senior Member beeman's Avatar
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    I'll mount it on the front roof bar, probably incorporated into an overhead console. So I might have to tear it apart to move the forward facing DVR camera since it'll be looking at the chassis tubing.
    MK3.1 2004 Mach 1 donor. ABS, PS, TC.
    GTM #304 LPE 525hp LS3
    2000 C5 Lingenfelter [email protected]

  27. #267
    Senior Member tanderson1's Avatar
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    Today:
    • Drilled holes in the tunnel aluminum for the fuel crossover.
    • experienced pain while installing the painless harness.... They lie!!
    • decided it was easier to remove most of the wires from the painless harness, cut all the zipties and put the wires in one by one to the locations that i needed them.
    • Drew out some more wiring diagrams.
    • put a second coat of paint on the drivers side seat brackets i welded up yesterday.
    • received the stuff i ordered yesterday, power mirror controls, power door locks, door switches
    • ordered a set of grommets to use where wires have to pass through aluminum.


    Here is what i ended up with for relays.

    Mounted to 8 relay block in the passenger foot well.
    - #1 High beam relay (use the 5th pole to disable the fog lights when the high beams are on)
    - #2 Low Beams
    - #3 Park light relay (the gauge of wire that painless uses makes me think that maybe these done need a relay)
    - #4 Brake Lights
    - #5 reverse lights
    - #6 left signal
    - #7 right signal

    The 8 relay block is modular and i can buy another one and click in more relay slots... so i ordered another one to add these relays
    - #9 Fog light relay (wired through High beam relays off pole)
    - #10 Door Locks (lock) I am using a Viper alarm, needs a ground trigger
    - #11 Door Locks (unlock) I am using a Viper alarm, needs a ground trigger
    - #12 Column In ? (this may be low enough current to not need a relay)
    - #13 Column Out ? (this may be low enough current to not need a relay)

    AC unit (mounted in passenger foot well)
    - #1 Heater Valve (already in VA harness)
    - #2 Compressor relay (Already in VA harness... I believe i could remove this)

    Engine Bay relays
    - #1 AC Compressor Trigger (from PCM, lets the PCM toggle the compressor)
    - #2 Fan 1
    - #3 Fan 2

    Painless harness
    - #4 Horn (the gauge of wire that painless uses makes me think that maybe these done need a relay)
    Last edited by tanderson1; 04-20-2019 at 10:13 PM.

  28. #268
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    lots of wire/slices to do, make sure these all are fused as something always goes wrong want to make sure it is all protected.

  29. #269
    Senior Member tanderson1's Avatar
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    Click on this image to get the larger version.
    Relays.jpg

    So far this is my wiring, i know some of these dont technically need relays but it makes me feel better having them. I couldnt find the maximum amp raitings of the column controls so this is the safest option and easy to diagnose.


    • All painless wires are used as low current inputs (so i can downgrade the painless fuses to match).
    • All painless + triggers are brought into relay terminal 86 so the integrated diodes can do their job.
    • Fog lights and headlights will function properly and not operate at the same time (as per code here in Canada)
    • license plate and marker lights will work (as per code here in Canada)
    • All high current circuits get their own fuse (these are integrated into the relay block)
    • hazard lights will work using 2 diodes
    • Day time running lights (as per code here in Canada) will be accomplished by just wiring past the switch and leaving the the lows on all the time (including tail lights)
    • Turning the high beams on will turn off the low beams
    • door locks will be compatible with the Viper alarm i am installing
    • AC compressor uses the factory PCM, (so i can remove one relay from the Vintage Air harness)

  30. #270
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    Boy have fun wiring, lot of wires if any thing goes wrong later will be hell to debug specially after the car is all closed up.

    Be careful with the diodes, they could get hot depending on the load, specially if one is driving several lights. also they are fused with 30A any shorts on the lights may blow then up before the fuse unless it is really a large diode.

    Mostafa

  31. #271
    Senior Member tanderson1's Avatar
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    I'm not to worried about having any electrical problems down the road, i have left all junctions and relays in accessible locations, there is nothing that will be "closed up" and inaccessible and it will be easy to diagnose issues with all of the documentation i am creating. All of my wires pass through grommets and are also in split loom so the chances of a short are very low. I have also used the proper crimping tools and used proper practices for all of the junctions and connectors. Cars have been wired this way for many years, i have no doubt it will be reliable.

    On top of all of that i have left the engine harness and body harness as completely different harnesses wired to separate master fuses.

    The diodes i am using are large socketed automotive diodes, I bought a bunch of diodes and sockets just in case.

    My plan is to put some diodes, fuses short lengths of wire and a few relays in a zip lock bag and secure it up under the dash. If anything does happen i will be ready. :-)

  32. #272
    Senior Member tanderson1's Avatar
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    Power Mirrors.

    Onto the wiring for the power mirrors.

    I bought a mirror switch that i liked the look of for $26CAD on Amazon
    mirrorswitch.jpg

    Now that i have a switch i need the wiring pigtail for it. I have 2 options:
    1. Get it from one of the vehicles on this site and cut it off. (junk yard run)
    2. buy it new.


    Here are the mouser part numbers and prices to but it new. (about $3.00)
    mirrorconnector.jpg

    Now we need to figure out the pinout. Lucky for me someone has already figured that out.
    mirrorconnectorwires.jpg

    So onto how we will wire this up. I think 18 gauge wire should be sufficent for this task. Now i may have the polarity wrong on this diagram, so up may be down, down may be up.... i need to wire it all up on the bench first to see if this is right. If this all works out i only need 4 wires to travel from the drivers door to the passenger door
    column wires.jpg

  33. #273
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    Is that the Side mirror mating connectors? I need them for 2004 also.

  34. #274
    Senior Member tanderson1's Avatar
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    That connector that i linked to is for the mirror switch off of a Ford.

    Mouser will sell the mirror connector as well but you would have to find it on their site. When i get home i will take a look at the mirror connector and see if i can find it.

  35. #275
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    I have ti check my mirror connectors over the weeks end, since the doors are next.

  36. #276
    Senior Member tanderson1's Avatar
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    Here are the photos of the power mirror connector. My mirrors dont have memory. I believe they both have the same connector. I think the mirrors with memory use an additional plug for the memory functions.

    The connector is not a Molex connector, its made by PED

    The markings on the front say:
    9
    PED
    DCBA

    The markings on the back say:
    HGFE

    20190423_184040.jpg20190423_184110.jpg20190423_184117.jpg20190423_184125.jpg20190423_184142.jpg

    I think this is the Chevy wiring page that relates to this connector. It calls it an "8-way M Metri-Pack 150 Series (BLK)"

    mirror Connector.gif

    Here is the connector on Mouser
    you will also need the pins from Mouser as well (Assuming that is the right connector)
    Last edited by tanderson1; 04-24-2019 at 10:52 AM.

  37. #277
    Senior Member tanderson1's Avatar
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    I mentioned before that the horn ground ring had to be modified to fit. This is what i had to do. After i cut off the majority of the collar i used a file to remove the sharp bits.
    20190419_140217.jpg

    These are the two relays for the VA unit. I had to remove these connectors to fit the wires though a grommet.
    20190419_171902.jpg

    These are the new door switches i bought. Not to be installed soon, need the body on first. They just arrived in the mail.
    20190420_223819.jpg

    This is the new electic mirror control switch, Also just arrived in the mail.
    20190420_223835.jpg20190420_223844.jpg20190420_223855.jpg

    Door unlock solonoids arrived in the mail as well.
    20190420_223902.jpg

    I hooked the mirrors up on the bench and verified that the motors work and the wires work the way i think they do. I still need the connector for the switch before i can test the system as a whole.
    20190423_193719.jpg

    I adjusted the fuel pump filters to make room for the factory five cold air intake. I think this will leave just enough room. It will make it a little hard to read the fuel pressure gauge but i dont see that as a big deal.
    20190423_193958.jpg20190423_194006.jpg

  38. #278
    Senior Member tanderson1's Avatar
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    I have been stopped from finishing the wiring for the last few days because i am waiting for some large firewall grommets to be delivered. I decided that it will be easier to route the main power wires, passenger door wires and relay wires though the AC section under the dash. However the AC section is technically outside the car and needs to be air tight from the inside. So i will use two firewall boots that secure with zip ties to seal off the connections and prevent the wires from touching the aluminum. I tried to buy grommets from the usual places but none had them, or were able to get them... so in the end i had to order 2 from amazon for $50... ouch. I am a little jelous when i see what some of these parts cost in the USA, even with the currency conversion i often pay double.

    So here is my updated list of items that need to be completed before mounting the body:
    • 6 hours finish off the wiring and test it all out. (No small task)
    • 1 hour finish bolting AC accumulator together, check to see if i put the filter in, oil the o rings.
    • 4 hours Take the car to a place that can fill the AC unit.
    • 2 hours Test the AC unit to make sure it works.
    • 3 hours Wrap the headers
    • 1 hour cut the holes in the top aluminum for the AC vent ducts
    • 1 hour Rivet in the top aluminum piece.
    • 1 hour put safety wire on the rear axle bolts again (removed a while ago to fix something)
    • 1 hour reinstall the fuel tanks, vents + roll over valves
    • 1 hour Install the fuel pump controller
    • 2 hours go to the junk yard to find a mirror switch pigtail for the switch i bought.

    (total 23 hours)

    Things i was thinking i might do now or later
    • Install a line lock kit (easy enough to do after the body/hood is installed... maybe i will put the wires in now.
    • Front sway bar (easy enough to do after the body is mounted.
    • Rear sway bar kit. I think this might have to be done before the body goes on for the last time.
    • Trans oil cooler. Radiator mount might be a good thing to work out before the body is mounted.
    • 2 hours make a bracket to support the Kooks exhaust
    • Purchase the rest of the wing and mount it to ensure the spacing is correct before mounting the body.

  39. #279
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    boy this will take me 10 times longer, there are lots of stuff here for few days, I could only do few of then a day, no wonder it has been long time for me.

  40. #280
    Senior Member tanderson1's Avatar
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    the firewall grommets arrived this morning.

    20190425_060701.jpg20190425_060712.jpg

    unfortunately no time to work on the car tonight... or tomorrow.

    but I do have a few dedicated hours on the weekend...

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