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Thread: Tanderson1's build thread..

  1. #281
    VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC's Avatar
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    Best be careful!!!...that rubber grommet causes cancer in CA.....
    Shane Vacek
    VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC
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    Turn-key GTM, SL-C & Ultima GTR Built to Your Specs!
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  2. #282
    Senior Member beeman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC View Post
    Best be careful!!!...that rubber grommet causes cancer in CA.....
    Is California still a location? Or a disease? What do they say about that big cancer-causing ball in the sky?
    MK3.1 2004 Mach 1 donor. ABS, PS, TC.
    GTM #304 LPE 525hp LS3
    2000 C5 Lingenfelter [email protected]

  3. #283
    Senior Member tanderson1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC View Post
    Best be careful!!!...that rubber grommet causes cancer in CA.....
    i noticed that... i will try my hardest not to eat the grommet.

  4. #284
    VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC's Avatar
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    As far as the law goes in CA....I don't think you need to eat it.....it just needs to be in the same room with you and it can give you cancer.
    Shane Vacek
    VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC
    www.vraptorspeedworks.com
    Turn-key GTM, SL-C & Ultima GTR Built to Your Specs!
    Offering a full line of GTM Upgrades and Custom Parts

  5. #285
    Senior Member tanderson1's Avatar
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    im sure thats the outside portion of the grommet that causes cancer right.... not the part inside the cabin with me :-)

    I wonder if they tell you when you buy a car that cars are known by the state of California to give you cancer.

  6. #286
    Senior member Roger Reid's Avatar
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    Prop 65 is not funny. My company got caught up in it and it cost us half a mil to get through it. My company builds water filters for drinking water. Prop 65 allows individual California residents (IE lawyers) to sue individuals and companies who sell products into California that have detectable levels of any substance they currently ban. The USEPA has used a lead level of 10 milligrams or parts per billion (PPB) for many years. Yes I repeat Billion. Recently California legislated language banning "any detectable level of lead". Yes zero. Testing procedures have improved now to detect less than 1 PPB. The lawyers jumped on it. If a filter producer used brass fittings to assemble a drinking water system you were sued. I didn't matter if the USEPA continues to use 10 PPB, California language said any detectable level. Well the lawyers got together with all those being sued and settled on 5 PPB. Just enough to catch all the manufacturers and fine each manufacturer hundreds of thousands of dollars payable to the lawyers themselves according to Prop 65. Prop 65 allowed the lawyers the ability to be the enforcement arm of the California lawmakers. So most everyone selling any product in California has added warning labels to their products.
    Just an old man with a great hobby

  7. #287

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    Quote Originally Posted by Roger Reid View Post
    Prop 65 is not funny. My company got caught up in it and it cost us half a mil to get through it. My company builds water filters for drinking water. Prop 65 allows individual California residents (IE lawyers) to sue individuals and companies who sell products into California that have detectable levels of any substance they currently ban. The USEPA has used a lead level of 10 milligrams or parts per billion (PPB) for many years. Yes I repeat Billion. Recently California legislated language banning "any detectable level of lead". Yes zero. Testing procedures have improved now to detect less than 1 PPB. The lawyers jumped on it. If a filter producer used brass fittings to assemble a drinking water system you were sued. I didn't matter if the USEPA continues to use 10 PPB, California language said any detectable level. Well the lawyers got together with all those being sued and settled on 5 PPB. Just enough to catch all the manufacturers and fine each manufacturer hundreds of thousands of dollars payable to the lawyers themselves according to Prop 65. Prop 65 allowed the lawyers the ability to be the enforcement arm of the California lawmakers. So most everyone selling any product in California has added warning labels to their products.
    Yep. We got notices to update our labels or face litigation. Everything needs to be labeled as potentially cancer causing and dangerous. If you walk around San Diego/California and look at all the entrances to the buildings you will notice, if you are looking for them, postings that say that the premises has products on site known to the state of California to cause cancer. EVERY SINGLE BUILDING. No matter when it was built. What they have done here is go so crazy with identifying ANYTHING that could ever possibly be harmful, no matter how unlikely, and forced people to post those warnings so that now one cannot tell if there is actually any danger anywhere because they claim there is danger everywhere! Stupid is as stupid does.

    Seriously, when was the last time you felt the urge to take a giant bite of bearing grease? And if you did, would a warning saying that the product might give you cancer stop you? It's ridiculous.
    www.myraceshop.com

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  8. #288
    Senior Member tanderson1's Avatar
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    I ended up taking a week off away from the car, stuff kept coming up, one night we had over a foot of snow fall over 2 hours and my family and i got stuck on a hill (on a highway) in the middle lane. There were 100+ other cars stuck along with us, even the snow plow that came to save us got stuck right beside us... fun night. My oldest son has been having some medical problems lately so we have had a variety of doctors appointments, Xrays, blood tests, etc. We have pretty good handle on everything now so life should be getting back to normal around here.

    I didn't mention before but someone broke into my car the other day, took the garage door opener and used it to gain entry into my garage while my family and i were asleep. They stole all of my hunting gear and seemly random tools and parts from around the garage. The annoying part is not that they stole thousands of dollars worth of stuff but more that fact that ever time i go out there and try to find a part i get frustrated because i don't know if i misplaced it or if it was stolen. The latest one i noticed was a bucket i had filled with new AN fittings, it also had the little wire for calibrating the gauges in it along with the wires for controlling the gauge backlights..... Gone!. I ordered two new cables from SpeedHut, cost was about $26USD, but shipping was $44USD. So those two small cables just cost me $100 Cad... arg. So far i have counted up $4000 worth of missing tools and parts.


    20190428_200325.jpg
    KGTM was nice enough to send me his unused floor vents.

    O6izlVE.png
    I found this picture from an old post made by Shoeless, this is how he made a opening for those vents just under the AC unit. I plan to install them just like this. Should be fairly easy to drill holes on each side then make two straight cuts with the side grinder. I did think about making these openings above the AC unit but that wont be possible, space up there is at a premium.

    20190429_193629.jpg
    here are the cancer causing grommets installed. I love these grommets, they will seal very well and can be sized by cutting away the back half of the grommet. After i ordered these i saw a post where someone just took a PVC pipe and put it straight over and sealed around the pipe. Thats a great idea, if i had do do this again i would do it that way as it would provide more space, and after the dash is closed up it would remain accessible.

    20190429_193722.jpg
    I realized i have not had a picture of the whole car in a while, truthfully its less together now then it was a month ago... two steps forward, sometimes 5 steps back :-)

    20190505_191624.jpg20190505_191641.jpg
    My Alarm finally arrived, its a Viper 5706. It has remote start, alarm, vibration sensor, tilt sensor, window roll up module, 2 way remote, and it has a phone app with GPS tracking. I am installing this unit now because it has to wire into all of the core cars systems like ignition, door sensors, hood switches, windows, door locks. I have to find a home for this somewhere up under the dash, space under there is hard to find right now.

    20190505_191841.jpg
    I complained before that FF didn't supply the fog light wiring. I was wrong, they did supply it, it was in the packaging for the fog lights themselves. They come with a switch, fuses and a relay holder. I think i will just use some of the raw wire around the car, I will cut out the fuses, relay and switch.

    For the headlights/brights and daytime running lights i did something a little different. I wired the headlights to be always on (along with the tail lights). This fits my countries laws for day time running lights. The headlight switch on the stalk now controls the fog lights when headlights are selected. Switching on the brights will turn off the fog lights and switch the headlights to brights. This also helps me remove one more switch from the dash.

  9. #289
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    So Sorry to hear about your loss, I have lots of extra aluminum panels so if you lost any of then let me know, have few brake parts also, all new.

    Mostafa

  10. #290
    Senior Member tanderson1's Avatar
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    Thanks for the offer KGTM. brakes were installed and working so i am good there and i went through each piece of aluminum, it seems i have them all.

    I just received my SpeedHut order today. I got the gauge dimmer and my programming cable. Followed by disappointment!!! I hooked up all the gauge back-lights for the first time and instant surprise when i powered them on and the back-light colors were different. The gauges that came from FF have a blue back-light while the KPH gauge that i ordered from SpeedHut has a white back-light. I checked SpeedHut and white was the only option. The gauge is a perfect match other then that.

    So my choices are,
    1. Open up the old gauge with a dremel, figure out how the back-light comes out and then cut open the new one to transplant the back-light. (not a fan of this one)
    2. Spend $280 to buy a new tach that looks exactly like the one i have but has a white back-light. (so all 4" gauges look the same and the 2" gauges look the same). They have a model with shift led's on it... i do like that.
    3. Go all out and buy the new tach, and 3 new white gauges for Volts. Air fuel, Fuel PSI, mount those in the dash and put the 3 other blue gauges in gauge pods up the A piller.
    4. Do nothing for now, but leave some extra wires with weather proof connectors on both ends under the dash, fed through to the engine bay, these could be used later when i figure out what to do.


    honestly i am leaning toward option 4... this seems like a problem i can put off for a while.

  11. #291
    Senior Member beeman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by beeman View Post
    Here's the one I ended up buying based on good reviews, but I haven't installed it yet.

    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H3NCMXN

    So the problem with a system like this is that I'm going to use it as a dedicated rear view mirror, but the rear cameras are wide angle so you can't really see what kind of traffic is coming up behind you.

    Does anyone know of a waterproof hi-res narrow angle camera to toggle with the backup camera?
    Well, I just ordered a different rear view system that has the forward facing camera hanging below the unit, so it will look under the front windshield roll hoop. It also rotates if you want cockpit video. Reviews look good.

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MLHXNSK

    Big coupon code today, $58 off, I only paid $88!

    https://www.dealnews.com/Chicom-1080.../18004218.html
    MK3.1 2004 Mach 1 donor. ABS, PS, TC.
    GTM #304 LPE 525hp LS3
    2000 C5 Lingenfelter [email protected]

  12. #292
    Senior Member tanderson1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by beeman View Post
    Well, I just ordered a different rear view system that has the forward facing camera hanging below the unit, so it will look under the front windshield roll hoop. It also rotates if you want cockpit video. Reviews look good.

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MLHXNSK

    Big coupon code today, $58 off, I only paid $88!

    https://www.dealnews.com/Chicom-1080.../18004218.html
    let me know how it works out, amazon.com wont ship that unit to Canada, but i do travel to the USA for work often so i could have it shipped to a hotel.

  13. #293
    Senior Member narkosys's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tanderson1 View Post
    let me know how it works out, amazon.com wont ship that unit to Canada, but i do travel to the USA for work often so i could have it shipped to a hotel.
    You should look into using a parcel receiving place just across the border. I use these guys but I am sure that there are some closer to you.

  14. #294
    Senior Member tanderson1's Avatar
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    Things finished today

    1. Viper alarm with car starter is 100& wired in (No small Feet, this took most of the day). I also found a place to mount it.
    2. AC Compressor wiring is 100% complete, wired into factory ECU.
    3. AC Air unit is 100% complete
    4. Heater Bypass is installed and wired in
    5. Ign switch is 100% wired in.
    6. All relays are 80% wired in. (Fuses are all installed, Diodes are installed,
    7. Master fuse is installed and 30 amp self resetting fuses are installed for the Engine harness/Painless harness/AC unit/Fuel pump
    8. Hazard lights wiring is complete (diodes installed)
    9. Fog light wiring is complete.


    if i can find time tomorrow i will
    1. Wire the rear lights
    2. Wire the Front lights
    3. Wire the horn
    4. Wire the wiper spray pump
    5. Wire the column switches
    6. Extend the wires for the gauges so they fit better.

  15. #295
    Senior Member jamesfr58's Avatar
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    Tanderson1,

    I have a full gauge set for the GTM from FFR that I did not use if it would help you out let me know.

  16. #296
    Senior Member tanderson1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jamesfr58 View Post
    Tanderson1,

    I have a full gauge set for the GTM from FFR that I did not use if it would help you out let me know.
    I assume all of the gauges from FFR have the same light blue backlight, i need a set with white backlights. I don't suppose yours have a clear white backlight?

  17. #297
    Senior Member jamesfr58's Avatar
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    You might be right, I will try to check them today and let you know.

  18. #298
    Senior Member tanderson1's Avatar
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    Relays.jpg

    I finished the majority of the wiring today, i made some changes to my diagram.

    1. The reverse relay now triggers with a ground (this uses less wire from the front to the back)
    2. I changed the parking light wiring. The old wiring would only light up the low beams on the front signal lights. There was nothing illuminated on the rear of the vehicle. I'm pretty sure that the law here is that the tail lights need to also light up. I checked all of my factory vehicles, they all light the brakes and the front signals. This needs one more diode, it will also light the side marker lights and the license plate.


    Horn is now complete
    Wiper fluid motor is now wired.
    all front lights and back lights are wired up to the front and rear of the vehicle. I will do the rest once the body is on and i know where the lights end up
    I removed all of the unneeded pins from the column harness

    I made a new todo list before mounting the body.... somehow the list got longer, but it is more specific. Here is what i have now.
    1. Wrap Headers
    2. Truck Switch (for alarm), I bought it, need to run the wires for it.
    3. Hood Switch (for alarm), I bought it, need to run the wires for it.
    4. AC illumination wire needs to run to cluster (then i need to find a way to wire it into the dimmer for the existing gauges)
    5. Door Switches (for alarm/foot well lights) I think i will need yet another 5 pole relay for this. (Put the old licence plate lights into each foot well)
    6. Side Marker lights (I have the relays all working, just need wires that go to all 4 corners)
    7. Run reverse light wire to stereo (i have the wires hanging, need loom and to feed it through the grommets)
    8. Assemble and mount cold air intake (ff unit)
    9. Cut floor vent holes in aluminium and rivet the vents on
    10. install the orifice tube in the AC line.... I thought i did this but i found the tube in a box
    11. Extend all the gauge sensor wires so they follow the rest of the loom under the dash.
    12. Extend the wiper motor wires over to the motor.
    13. Finish column wires
    14. Put welding blanket into the tunnel
    15. Get 3M double stick tape to attach the alarm vibration module.
    16. Create wire loom to go into each door (locks/mirrors/windows/speakers/poppers)
    17. Make a bracket to mount the kooks exhaust to the G96 trans
    18. Fix coolant leak (this just started, coming from where the tube connects to the flex line)
    19. Drill the top aluminum sheet (on the dash). cleco it in place for now.
    20. Safety wire the rear axle bolts again.
    21. Rivet on the driver side tunnel aluminum
    22. Install the drivers side gas tank
    23. Install the fuel tank roll over valves
    24. Install the Aeromotive fuel pump controller
    25. Wire the electric column extend wires into the switch (needs a fuse)
    26. Secure the heater bypass valve (need to make a bracket to hold it steady)
    27. put some vacuum line to the heater bypass from the vacuum pump
    28. I need a cigarette lighter power plug somewhere... maybe install the seats to see where there is room.
    29. I bought an amp wiring kit to go behind the passenger seat, need to put in some grommets and get it run though the tunnel


    Once thats done i might let some feature creep back in.
    1. Door Poppers, there are lots of extra channels on the alarm, Seems i could use 2 to pop the driver/passenger doors
    2. Rear camera (i ran the power wire already, but need some kind of signal wire, HDMI or RCA)
    3. Line lock (not sure why i want this, spinning R888's would most likely kill the trans quickly)

  19. #299
    Senior Member beeman's Avatar
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    Make a bracket to mount the kooks exhaust to the G96 trans
    I'm curious how you are planning on doing this, I need to do this as well.
    MK3.1 2004 Mach 1 donor. ABS, PS, TC.
    GTM #304 LPE 525hp LS3
    2000 C5 Lingenfelter [email protected]

  20. #300
    VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by beeman View Post
    I'm curious how you are planning on doing this, I need to do this as well.
    If it's a G96-50, I have a brackets designed to mount both sides of the muffler stands.....similar to the G50 bracket but for the G96-50 bolt pattern....one bracket for the LH side and one for the RH side...similar to these:

    http://vraptorspeedworks.com/g50-to-...nting-bracket/
    Shane Vacek
    VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC
    www.vraptorspeedworks.com
    Turn-key GTM, SL-C & Ultima GTR Built to Your Specs!
    Offering a full line of GTM Upgrades and Custom Parts

  21. #301
    Senior Member beeman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC View Post
    If it's a G96-50, I have a brackets designed to mount both sides of the muffler stands.....similar to the G50 bracket but for the G96-50 bolt pattern....one bracket for the LH side and one for the RH side...similar to these:

    http://vraptorspeedworks.com/g50-to-...nting-bracket/
    Perfect, I'll contact you. Thanks!

    EDIT: Communicated with Shane, I have a g96.01, his bracket is specific to the g96.50
    Last edited by beeman; 05-13-2019 at 10:12 AM.
    MK3.1 2004 Mach 1 donor. ABS, PS, TC.
    GTM #304 LPE 525hp LS3
    2000 C5 Lingenfelter [email protected]

  22. #302
    Senior Member tanderson1's Avatar
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    I also have a G96.01

    I made a few cardboard templates, none that i was really happy with so far. I think it should be possible to create a similar bracket to what Shane showed however there are less bolt holes to use then the G50.

  23. #303
    VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC's Avatar
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    Can one of you guys send me or post a pic of the bolt pattern at the rear of the trans (that holds the rear case of the trans to the front case where we normally mount these brackets) for both the LH side and RH side? Maybe the bolt pattern is the same as a G96-50? I have never had a G96-01 here in person to look at, so maybe I'm wrong in that the bolt pattern is different?
    Shane Vacek
    VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC
    www.vraptorspeedworks.com
    Turn-key GTM, SL-C & Ultima GTR Built to Your Specs!
    Offering a full line of GTM Upgrades and Custom Parts

  24. #304
    Senior Member beeman's Avatar
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    I could probably run out there this evening if tanderson1 can't get to it, make some measurements between the bolts as well.
    MK3.1 2004 Mach 1 donor. ABS, PS, TC.
    GTM #304 LPE 525hp LS3
    2000 C5 Lingenfelter [email protected]

  25. #305
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    Quote Originally Posted by tanderson1 View Post
    I assume all of the gauges from FFR have the same light blue backlight, i need a set with white backlights. I don't suppose yours have a clear white backlight?
    had the same issue when i ordered some additional gauges from Speedhut, I recall that they said they send about a 50/50 mix to F5. The individual at Speedhut that I talked to said that it was easy to change out the color, might want to give them a call.

    Steve

  26. #306
    VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by beeman View Post
    I could probably run out there this evening if tanderson1 can't get to it, make some measurements between the bolts as well.
    I just added this to my website. If you're mounting bosses don't look like this, then these won't work for you.....

    http://vraptorspeedworks.com/g96-50-...ting-brackets/
    Shane Vacek
    VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC
    www.vraptorspeedworks.com
    Turn-key GTM, SL-C & Ultima GTR Built to Your Specs!
    Offering a full line of GTM Upgrades and Custom Parts

  27. #307
    Senior Member beeman's Avatar
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    Yeah this one doesn't look anything like that..
    20190515_171408.jpg

    20190515_171404.jpg
    MK3.1 2004 Mach 1 donor. ABS, PS, TC.
    GTM #304 LPE 525hp LS3
    2000 C5 Lingenfelter [email protected]

  28. #308
    Senior Member jamesfr58's Avatar
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    I am not using the Kooks exhaust, but my G96 looks just like the one Beeman posted pictures of and there are no ears as indicated in the picture Shane posted to mount the brackets to on the transmission.

  29. #309
    VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC's Avatar
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    Yeah....that is indeed a whole different animal there....
    Shane Vacek
    VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC
    www.vraptorspeedworks.com
    Turn-key GTM, SL-C & Ultima GTR Built to Your Specs!
    Offering a full line of GTM Upgrades and Custom Parts

  30. #310
    Senior Member tanderson1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC View Post
    Yeah....that is indeed a whole different animal there....
    Yup. Not a lot of mounting options.

    Those bolts are pretty far back and there is only one place on the other side to anchor too.

  31. #311
    VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC's Avatar
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    If it were me, I'd most likely drill and tap that big, flat aluminum flange on the trans right in front of the rear mount and use that as a platform to bolt some sort of bracket to for the exhaust....
    Shane Vacek
    VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC
    www.vraptorspeedworks.com
    Turn-key GTM, SL-C & Ultima GTR Built to Your Specs!
    Offering a full line of GTM Upgrades and Custom Parts

  32. #312
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    [QUOTE=tanderson1;367267]Relays.jpg

    I finished the majority of the wiring today, i made some changes to my diagram.

    BTW, general rule for driving relays in cars is to drive them low (GND) and not high(12v).

    Mostafa

  33. #313
    Senior Member tanderson1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kgtm View Post

    i finished the majority of the wiring today, i made some changes to my diagram.

    Btw, general rule for driving relays in cars is to drive them low (gnd) and not high(12v).

    Mostafa
    i used the painless harness, it outputs +12. So to prevent too much surgery i stuck with it.

    Family and i went camping this weekend, came home because it was raining and snowing the whole time. So figured i would spend an hour out in the garage and a few hours running around town shopping.

    I bought more wire to complete the power mirror wiring and power window wiring. This wire will also be used for door locks and door poppers.
    20190516_070151.jpg

    I went to the junk yard and picked up for wiring harness for the power mirrors. Total cost was $8 with a switch. The switch i bought new has power fold (so it has a silk screen that says power fold)
    20190516_070211.jpg
    20190516_070223.jpg

    I bought a small amp wiring kit. I plan to put a small amp behind the passenger seat.
    20190516_070259.jpg

    Amp kit came with RCA cables that were way to long, so i bought shorter cables. I also received the new relay box (also in the photo)
    20190516_070303.jpg

    These are the two different switches
    20190520_112537.jpg

    Wired up to the mirrors on the bench, turns out they are wired differently. The unit with power fold has the motor polarity opposite to the one without power fold. It also turns out that my old diagram had the left and right mirrors backwards.
    20190520_115837.jpg

    Here are the new wiring diagrams with the correct right/left mirror and positive to the right side of the motor (so left is left, right is right, etc.)
    column wires.jpgcolumn wires v2.jpg


    The silk screen at the bottom of the mirror switch would bug me so i sanded it off with a sugar cube. Sugar cubes work great for removing silk screen from plastic. Now i wont have to use the junk yard unit, I will use the new unit instead.
    20190520_120340.jpg

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