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Thread: Tanderson1's build thread..

  1. #201
    Senior Member tanderson1's Avatar
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    Pictures or it didnt happen 1/2

    I think this was the end of day one
    IMG_2736.JPG

    Fuel pump and filter location
    IMG_2741.JPGIMG_2742.JPG

    This is how i mounted them, they are SOLID as a rock, the filters are bolted together and then held in place by the solid AN fittings. I was a little worried at first by putting the weight on them like this but you can use the filters as a handle and hang off this thing, its solid.
    IMG_2745.JPG

    Regulator mounting location, i cut a piece of steel, it will be welded in soon. (I have since replaced some of these AN fittings to change the routing.
    IMG_2747.JPGIMG_2748.JPGIMG_2749.JPG

    It was the first really nice day of the year so i brought out the RV batteries and went out to un-winterize the Winnebago.
    IMG_2753.JPG

    This is the grease i used on the ball joints
    IMG_2756.JPG

    Cont....

  2. #202
    Senior Member tanderson1's Avatar
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    Pictures or it didnt happen 2/2

    This is the 3/4 thick rubber sheet... or at least part of it. I cut all the gas tank bases out of it (2 strips 2 layers each side)
    IMG_2779.JPG

    More shots of the rubber, i used black silicone to stick the rubber to the metal and the top rubber piece to the bottom rubber piece.
    IMG_2778.JPGIMG_2780.JPGIMG_2781.JPGIMG_2782.JPG

    tank set back in now sits perfectly level.
    IMG_2784.JPG

    Some photos of the progress before the last day.
    IMG_2785.JPGIMG_2786.JPGIMG_2787.JPGIMG_2789.JPG

    I will get some photos tomorrow of the exhaust installed.

    Its funny how it really doesn't look much different then it did 8 days ago but it sure does have allot more effort into it.

  3. #203
    Senior Member Edgeman's Avatar
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    I posted some reply's on the other thread.
    GTM #370
    Car was completed and I have SOLD my car
    http://edgemansgtm.weebly.com/index.html
    Doing what you like is freedom - liking what you do is happiness
    later,
    Doug

  4. #204
    Senior Member tanderson1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Edgeman View Post
    I posted some reply's on the other thread.
    saw those thanks, i will try and get the compressor back out tomorrow and see if i cant get it over to an AC shop to reindex. Those photos were very handy thanks.

    I also bought some 200 and 250 amp fuses today after i read your post. I didn't realize that the Alberta inspector would look for a main fuse. The unit i ordered was from binnacle.com (Canadian), the fuses are marine grade and mount directly to the battery post so the install will be clean.

    Anything else you can remember the inspector was looking for? (side marker lights, fuse, and....)

  5. #205
    Senior Member tanderson1's Avatar
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    Parts have started rolling in,
    • MAF sensor is now in place
    • Exhaust (temporary one) is now installed.
    • Accumulator bracket is here. (still have to make a mount)
    • New shift boot and handle arrived, it happens to have come with the full assembly, and it looks brand new, so i will replace the one i have.
    • Still waiting on fan connectors
    • Still waiting on seat rails
    • Trans gear oil is full now (the proper stuff was ordered from the USA)
    • Kooks exhaust is also about a month or so away.


    Exhaust was a problem and may foreshadow what the Kooks will have to go through.

    Here you can see that the starter gets in the way of the pipe between the headers and the H pipe.
    IMG_2822.jpg

    This picture shows how it fails to line up.
    IMG_2819.jpg

    I don't have a photo of it (i can take one) but i figured this exhaust was only temporary so i hit the side of it with a hammer until it fit. Not elegant i know but amazingly it looks perfect once installed. The part i hit now perfectly follows the contour of the starter. It easily bolted into place after that "modification".

    Does anyone know if the kooks exhaust needs the same clearance?
    If it does i think i will start looking for other starter options.

  6. #206
    Senior Member tanderson1's Avatar
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    I found this photo online of the Kooks headers installed.

    Looks to be enough of a gap to clear the existing starter.
    7222278.jpg

  7. #207
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    Great build.
    Been great to follow along.

    Also you bought at the right time. The dollar exchange rate hurts more now.
    Last edited by Goodmanners; 05-16-2016 at 08:24 AM.

  8. #208
    Senior Member tanderson1's Avatar
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    I'm Back

    Howdy, again.

    The GTM has been sitting in my garage untouched for 2 years now... I would like to say life got in the way, which is true to some extent but i think it was mostly a lack of motivation. The last thing i tried to do was run the starter and was greeted with a horrible metal on metal noise from inside the engine.... around that time i also switched jobs, so it sat... and i moved on to some of my other unfinished projects.

    Fast forward to this week (I started Monday morning)
    • I got some time off work
    • Figured out the engine noise (My uncle was over, he's a car guy, he asked to hear the noise, i cranked it over... 5 seconds pass as he thinks, he points to the trans adapter and says "loosen those bolts"..... sure enough, noise goes away. The bolts on the trans adapter were contacting the flywheel.... didn't think it would be that easy. )
    • I yanked off the GTM exhaust and put on the Kooks that has been sitting in its box for 2 years
    • Now the air filter wouldn't fit because it hit the exhaust, i ordered the cold air intake kit from FF but its still in the box.. i found the box and just used the rubber piece with slight slope on it to raise the air filter up. This will work for now.
    • Reinstalled the starter (it misses the kooks by about 2mm)
    • Moved the fuel pump behind the drivers head, my old location made filter changes almost impossible. I am running the Aeromotive A1000 pump and its not small.
    • Wired up the fuel pump (temporary relay setup for now, it will need a fuel pump controller)
    • Installed the Aeromotive fuel rails, pressure gauge, and all AN fittings with braided lines (bought all this 2 years ago as well)
    • Dug though boxes for hours to find the fan plugs i bought years ago and wired up the fans. (
    • Checked all the fluid levels
    • Wednesday morning, gathered the family, turned the key and crossed my fingers.


    No hesitation, started right up, ran smooth. That's the first time that engine has run since it came out of the Vett 3 years ago. Had i known it would take me less then 2 days of work to get it running i think i would have done it years ago.

    So, it looks like i am motivated again :-) Next step is to get it go-karting this week..

    Before Karting, i need to:
    • Finish the AC lines and charge them. (was just going to use a cheap Walmart charge kit for now)
    • Mount the AC accumulator (right now its kind of floating)
    • Mount the seats, I bought the tabs and rails, i just have to mount them
    • Make a wiring harness for the gauge cluster wires (temp, oil pressure, tach, speed, also running a Tach wire to the fuel pump controller)
    • secure the ebrake cable assembly, right now they could get caught in the axles
    • Create a home for and secure the engine relays (fuel pump, etc)
    • Check all bolts...
    • Tear up the neighborhood :-)


    I have also had a few problems i have not been able to find solutions to yet... would love some thoughts from you guys.
    • I bought aluminum tanks, they have a vent line.... the garage now smells like gas. What is the best way to prevent the smell. Is there a smaller charcoal canister that is easier to hide then the factory unit? or do people just generally get a roll over valve and call it a day.
    • I have a check engine light and a code for EVAP. Makes sense as i have completely remove the factory evap system. How do i get rid of the code so i can trust the check engine light, should i find someone to reprogram the ECU or is there a way to trick the wiring into thinking its there?

  9. #209
    VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC's Avatar
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    Not sure I can help you with the gas smell problem...we normally just vent the fuel tanks thru a large lawn-mower style inline fuel filter.

    The check engine light...yes, you will have to find someone to hook up the ECU to something like HP Tuners so you can go in and manually turn off all of the codes that you don't want the ECU to look for.

    One other thing to warn you about....if you mounted your fuel pump up above the fuel tank, you will probably eventually get a situation where your car won't start because you have pressure in the fuel line already...and the pump won't be able to create enough vacuum to pull fuel up out of the tank. We always mount the fuel pump as low on the chassis as possible to avoid this situation.....so there is always liquid fuel to the pump inlet no matter what.
    Shane Vacek
    VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC
    www.vraptorspeedworks.com
    Turn-key GTM, SL-C & Ultima GTR Built to Your Specs!
    Offering a full line of GTM Upgrades and Custom Parts

  10. #210
    Senior Member tanderson1's Avatar
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    For the filter are you using something like this?
    120-444_L.jpg


    I did read in the manual that it was best to mount the fuel pump at or below the bottom of the tank. The manual indicated that the fuel pump would have to work harder and may wear faster being at the top of the tank. I plan to test the setup as a go-kart quite a bit to see if there are any side effects. This is the pump i am using

    FED85B60-16F2-4A07-B8D3-2186DC3E1066-1711-000001514658EF45.jpg

    i figured it shouldn't have any problem pulling fuel because its huge.... maybe i was wrong in that assumption.

  11. #211
    Senior Member Big Blocker's Avatar
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    Been following this from day one . . . Sweet build!!

    [Some of the] Roadster guys build/use a 1" PVC tube filled with charcoal purchased from an aquarium / pet supply store. Cap both ends of a 4" tube, put a fitting in one end, connect other end to your gas tank vent port, make the other end removable. Drill the removable end with a bunch of holes (small - 1/16") to let the fumes out. Fill it with charcoal - Works perfect. Mount it somewhere easily accessed, mine is in the right rear wheel well. Replace charcoal every few years or when you start to smell gas again. My Roadster needs it replaced every two to three years.

    Doc
    FFR3712K (MKII) in Lost Wages Nevada.
    5.0 w/tubular GT-40 EFI, E303 cam, Custom 4 into 4 headers, T5, 3-Link 3.73 rear. Full F5 tubular suspension. Drop Butt mod, Dash forward mod, custom foot box air vents, custom turn signal system. 13" PBR brakes, Fiero E-Brake mod, Flaming River 18:1 rack w/ F5 bump steer kit on Breeze bushings. 17" Chrome Cobra "R's" w/ 275 fronts and 315 rears. MKIV seats. FORD Royal Blue w/ Arctic White stripes.

  12. #212
    Senior Member beeman's Avatar
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    Good luck getting back into your build! Glad to hear the engine noise was an easy fix!
    MK3.1 2004 Mach 1 donor. ABS, PS, TC.
    GTM #304 LPE 525hp LS3
    2000 C5 Lingenfelter LS1@489hp
    1999 Corvette FRC/Z06 track car

  13. #213
    VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tanderson1 View Post
    For the filter are you using something like this?
    120-444_L.jpg


    I did read in the manual that it was best to mount the fuel pump at or below the bottom of the tank. The manual indicated that the fuel pump would have to work harder and may wear faster being at the top of the tank. I plan to test the setup as a go-kart quite a bit to see if there are any side effects. This is the pump i am using

    FED85B60-16F2-4A07-B8D3-2186DC3E1066-1711-000001514658EF45.jpg

    i figured it shouldn't have any problem pulling fuel because its huge.... maybe i was wrong in that assumption.
    Yes, that looks just like the filter I use....all it needs to do is keep dirt/dust/bugs out of the fuel system.

    The problem with the pump mounted high (that is the very same pump others have had problems with mounted high) is pretty simple.....if the fuel rail is full of liquid fuel....and thru the heat of the engine bay, the fuel input to the pump turns from liquid to vapor or the supply line loses it's prime for any reason (pressurized fuel is not going to turn to vapor...but fuel under vacuum will).....there is only one way for the pump the re-prime and that is to "push" that vapor (or air lock) from the supply side to the pressure side.....and if the pressure side already has pressure, you're trying to use the pump to pump fuel vapors or air....to create enough pressure to overcome the pressure that's already on the outlet side. The pump is only built to create pressure using liquid...not built to create vacuum.
    Shane Vacek
    VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC
    www.vraptorspeedworks.com
    Turn-key GTM, SL-C & Ultima GTR Built to Your Specs!
    Offering a full line of GTM Upgrades and Custom Parts

  14. #214
    Senior Member tanderson1's Avatar
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    So while i was not spending time on the car over the last two years i did put some time into the garage...

    The company i work for moved to a new building that was previously owned by an oil company. They left tons of heavy duty filing cabinets behind, I work for a tech company, we dont have much use for paper... so i was told i could take some home... cant argue with the free price tag. I have hundreds of pounds of tools in the drawers and they still roll smooth. I then took boardroom tables (also free) and cut them down the middle to create the counter tops. Each filing cabinet is bolted to the wall and to the cabinet next to it. There is also a slab of marble at the bottom of each filing cabinet. This all makes for a very solid bench that is at the perfect height for me.

    If you look close you can see all the magnetic labels, these were made by taking magnetic white boards (left behind by the oil company again) and sticking label maker labels to them then cutting them out. Now i can find any tool fast. I then mounted an all in one computer to the wall for bringing up the GTM manuals and searching the internet for wisdom.

    To mount tools on the wall i found a company that was going out of business that had painted slatwall in their space that they had to remove at the end of their lease. I did the work removing the slat wall for free and used the best sheets in my garage. I found that slatwall hooks are easy to find at most hardware stores and many specialty hooks can be found online for things like drills or paper towel, etc.
    IMG_6510.JPGIMG_6511.JPG

    I built some shelves at the end of both sides to house my larger tools and a mini-fridge for some beverages. I'm not sure if you can see them very well but i also added some hanging retractable systems from the roof that include an air hose, 2 power cords and a trouble light.
    IMG_6512.JPGIMG_6514.JPG

    I added an Amazon Echo, and wired her into the roof speakers for some tunes and quick unit conversions.
    IMG_6513.JPG

    Some car photos taken today... Kooks Exhaust
    IMG_6517.JPG

    Fuel pump mounting, the wiring is temporary until my fuel pump controller comes in
    IMG_6518.JPG

    Today was seat day... this proved to be more challenging to do alone then i though so i had a friend come over to mark bracket positions while i sat in the seat while working the peddles. I am a little over 6 foot 2 and found that no matter how tried to position the sliders they took up to much valuable seat height. On top of that my legs require the seat to be as back as far as possible anyway... so i ditched the sliders and used the brackets i bought (i think i got them from Shane) without the sliders. now the seats sit perfect all the time. I don't plan on letting anyone drive my car anyway :-)
    IMG_6519.JPG

    You cant see it in this photo but we also got the AC Accumulator bracket bent, painted and installed.
    IMG_6521.JPG

    Last month i finally got around to buying my own welder, its a small gas MIG, should be good enough for what i need to do.
    IMG_6509.JPG

    So I had some time today to run the engine long enough for the coolant to start pumping, everything seems to cool just fine. Engine maxed out at about 210 degrees while idling, the fans never kicked on but i think that's because it didn't get hot enough. I also routed the shift cables further away from the exhaust, melting those wouldn't be good.

    I have to say, i have never actually seen a finished GTM, never heard one run until yesterday... The LS1 with the Kooks exhaust sounds amazing, youtube videos do not do the noise justice.

  15. #215
    Senior Member tanderson1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC View Post
    The problem with the pump mounted high (that is the very same pump others have had problems with mounted high) is pretty simple.....if the fuel rail is full of liquid fuel....and thru the heat of the engine bay, the fuel input to the pump turns from liquid to vapor or the supply line loses it's prime for any reason (pressurized fuel is not going to turn to vapor...but fuel under vacuum will).....there is only one way for the pump the re-prime and that is to "push" that vapor (or air lock) from the supply side to the pressure side.....and if the pressure side already has pressure, you're trying to use the pump to pump fuel vapors or air....to create enough pressure to overcome the pressure that's already on the outlet side. The pump is only built to create pressure using liquid...not built to create vacuum.
    ok, I will take a look, i could always mount he pump in the old location that i had made, then run the lines up to the filters. That would make the pump hard to replace but the filters would be easy. That would also provide me enough room to mount the cold air kit that i bought from FFR...... that could work.

  16. #216
    Senior Member tanderson1's Avatar
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    hard to find parts

    So its time to start planning ahead for some harder to find items. What comes to mind right off the bat is the reverse switch plug on the Porsche 996 trans.

    The connector looks like this
    reverse plug.jpg

    So far i have been unable to find the connector, another option i have is to replace the switch completely with the switch from a Porsche 997 Turbo/GT3. It looks like this, which is a little more standard.
    reverse plug 2.jpg

    Or maybe i could find a wrecker that could cut that connector off a used harness.

  17. #217
    VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tanderson1 View Post
    So its time to start planning ahead for some harder to find items. What comes to mind right off the bat is the reverse switch plug on the Porsche 996 trans.

    The connector looks like this
    reverse plug.jpg

    So far i have been unable to find the connector, another option i have is to replace the switch completely with the switch from a Porsche 997 Turbo/GT3. It looks like this, which is a little more standard.
    reverse plug 2.jpg

    Or maybe i could find a wrecker that could cut that connector off a used harness.
    I have that connector here...brand new for the reverse switch. Email me thru my website.......
    Shane Vacek
    VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC
    www.vraptorspeedworks.com
    Turn-key GTM, SL-C & Ultima GTR Built to Your Specs!
    Offering a full line of GTM Upgrades and Custom Parts

  18. #218
    Senior Member tanderson1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC View Post
    I have that connector here...brand new for the reverse switch. Email me thru my website.......
    Great, I will email you today... i have some other items i have to buy from you as well. I will have to dig up my list. :-)

  19. #219
    Senior Member Edgeman's Avatar
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    Good to see that you are making a run at it again. If you need any help give me a call and maybe I can help over the phone.
    GTM #370
    Car was completed and I have SOLD my car
    http://edgemansgtm.weebly.com/index.html
    Doing what you like is freedom - liking what you do is happiness
    later,
    Doug

  20. #220
    Senior Member tanderson1's Avatar
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    I figured i would post to say that i'm not dead.

    1. I have ordered the rear wing supports from vspeed, i need these before i can throw the body on.
    2. I have ordered the trans reverse switch plug from vspeed, i need that to complete the wiring.
    3. I have ordered the rear hatch hinges from vspeed, body mounting is coming up fast, this will be important soon.
    4. I have ordered the Aeromotive fuel pump controller from Summit, the pump runs flat out all the time, its loud, this should increase it's life... and my the life of my hearing.
    5. I have ordered 2 tank vent roll over valves from Summit, this will help me not die by fire in a rollover.


    While i am waiting for parts i am trying to complete the last of the items between me and go-kart.

    I have the telescoping steering kit but the brake light bracket that i got with the kit was the shorter one for the non telescoping kit.... So i decided to take the new welder for a test drive and make the bracket bigger to accommodate the pillow block bearing. Finished and looks good, paint is drying now (I will get some photos up soon)

    FF sent me a set of gauges with the car that are in MPH not KPH... i guess that's just what they do for some annoying reason even though they sell this car globally, I contacted the manufacturer to see if the gauge could be changed over to KPH and it cant. So i asked if they had a matching gauge i could just buy, they don't.... so if i want matching gauges it looks like i need to buy a complete new set. I have also read that you can calibrate the MPH gauge to KM, however i'm not sure how the inspector is going to like that when i go to plate the car.

    Other then that i have been drawing tons of wiring diagrams on paper for the cabin/ac/lights/av,etc Once i have all the wires in place (and maybe a few spares) i will start closing up the tunnel.

  21. #221
    LCD Gauges's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Edgeman View Post
    Speedhut has the gauges that you want. These are the same gauges. I also had to go to the metric. You can custom fit it as well.
    https://www.speedhut.com/gauges/Spee...|f158|f159|f40
    ~ $400 USD for one gauge?

    Just going to leave this here...

    centenario_gauge.jpg LCDi100_Aventador_promo.jpgFordGT_Digital2.jpg
    Last edited by LCD Gauges; 04-11-2018 at 09:13 PM.
    Custom LCD Gauges , Data Loggers, Control Touch Screens
    www.LCDdash.com \\ 647-522-9953 \\ Voice & Text
    Proud new owner of GTM Gen 1., #105 - 08/27/11
    LQ9 Powered, G96.00 6 speed transaxle

  22. #222
    Senior Member Edgeman's Avatar
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    https://www.speedhut.com/gauges/Spee...|f158|f159|f40
    Speedhut has the gauges you want. They are a perfect match. I also had to replace with the metric one and can be customized to have your car # put on the face plate. Tino, I would use your system! WOW

    Capture.PNG
    Last edited by Edgeman; 04-11-2018 at 09:35 PM.
    GTM #370
    Car was completed and I have SOLD my car
    http://edgemansgtm.weebly.com/index.html
    Doing what you like is freedom - liking what you do is happiness
    later,
    Doug

  23. #223
    Senior Member tanderson1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Procision-Auto View Post
    ~ $400 USD for one gauge?
    Just going to leave this here...
    yah I Have seen your dash in the past... Looks cool, i love to do stuff like that myself :-). My 9-5 jop is to create items like that, both hardware and software and build prototypes to proove that a hardware or software concept could work and fit a purpose. That being said if i head the digital dash route i would want to do something on my own.

    Last night i found this little jem again. its an Audio Virtual Dashboard that they include in a few of their models. People have successfully transfered them into other models of vehicles (all audi as far as i can tell). The unit comes complete with Nav, cameras, streering consols, etc.... It gets its data from Canbus for the steering controls, RPM, Speed, etc.
    A1511730_medium-679x485.jpg

    Pair that with something like this for $3, to spoof the proper canbus commands.
    https://hackaday.com/2018/04/11/emul...-on-the-esp32/

    or this (I acutally own one of these... somewhere... I have to find it). This unit is capable of taking canbus commands from one ECU and rewriting the packets to new canbus commands. Like a man in the middle attack. This device can also be hooked up to an actual working audi cluster to record every canbus command that the dash receive. This would be required to document the canbus commands that the dash expects to see.
    https://www.kickstarter.com/projects...cursor=7786318

    This would allow anyone to put this dash in any vehicle.


    OR... if i couldnt find an Audi to play with.....

    audi_vc_5.jpg
    Plan B. The Actual LCD panel is a 12.3" 1,440px/540px made by a company called Japan Display Inc. I believe the panel should have a standard LVDS connector on the back. This would be quite easy to adapt to HDMI, add a small Raspberry PI and a bluetooth or wifi ODB2 adapter and i could create a similar onscreen menu to the Audi.

    Of course all of this takes time... which i dont have a ton of :-)
    This brings me back to the traction control system i was talking about creating a while back... which i do still plan to do.... that as well takes time.

    Quote Originally Posted by Edgeman View Post
    https://www.speedhut.com/gauges/Spee...|f158|f159|f40
    Speedhut has the gauges you want. They are a perfect match. I also had to replace with the metric one and can be customized to have your car # put on the face plate. Tino, I would use your system! WOW

    Capture.PNG
    I think this might be what i do for now, it will work and will get my car approved for road use. Once the car is done and i am looking for a new project I think i will buy an Audi dash and start playing.

  24. #224
    Senior Member rev2xs's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tanderson1 View Post
    yah I Have seen your dash in the past... Looks cool, i love to do stuff like that myself :-). My 9-5 jop is to create items like that, both hardware and software and build prototypes to proove that a hardware or software concept could work and fit a purpose. That being said if i head the digital dash route i would want to do something on my own.

    Last night i found this little jem again. its an Audio Virtual Dashboard that they include in a few of their models. People have successfully transfered them into other models of vehicles (all audi as far as i can tell). The unit comes complete with Nav, cameras, streering consols, etc.... It gets its data from Canbus for the steering controls, RPM, Speed, etc.
    A1511730_medium-679x485.jpg

    Pair that with something like this for $3, to spoof the proper canbus commands.
    https://hackaday.com/2018/04/11/emul...-on-the-esp32/

    or this (I acutally own one of these... somewhere... I have to find it). This unit is capable of taking canbus commands from one ECU and rewriting the packets to new canbus commands. Like a man in the middle attack. This device can also be hooked up to an actual working audi cluster to record every canbus command that the dash receive. This would be required to document the canbus commands that the dash expects to see.
    https://www.kickstarter.com/projects...cursor=7786318

    This would allow anyone to put this dash in any vehicle.


    OR... if i couldnt find an Audi to play with.....

    audi_vc_5.jpg
    Plan B. The Actual LCD panel is a 12.3" 1,440px/540px made by a company called Japan Display Inc. I believe the panel should have a standard LVDS connector on the back. This would be quite easy to adapt to HDMI, add a small Raspberry PI and a bluetooth or wifi ODB2 adapter and i could create a similar onscreen menu to the Audi.

    Of course all of this takes time... which i dont have a ton of :-)
    This brings me back to the traction control system i was talking about creating a while back... which i do still plan to do.... that as well takes time.


    I think this might be what i do for now, it will work and will get my car approved for road use. Once the car is done and i am looking for a new project I think i will buy an Audi dash and start playing.
    A friend of mine here in the UK has a new Audi S3, only picked it up 2 weeks ago. Its got that fancy dash in your pic. That LCD HUD already $hit the bed on him. So yeah, warranty job after 2 weeks. He was livid to say the least..

  25. #225
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    I've purchased several Speedhut gauges for several different car projects, all customized to some extent. They have two or three 25%-40% off sales per year, so if you're willing to wait you can save a bit there.

    -Michael
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    SOLD JUNE 2018 - GTM #327, LS3, G50/20, Kooks, AC, Ron's Tanks, Crash's 4-port HCV, Shane's Bolts & Plenum & etc., plus a lot of other stuff. Finished November 2013.

    Not-up-to-date Build Site: http://rumrunnergtm.weebly.com

  26. #226
    Senior Member tanderson1's Avatar
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    More progress,

    For the replacement gauge i think i am going to pick this one up.
    https://www.speedhut.com/gauge/GRM4-...and-high-beam) ( i am undecided if i want one that goes to 400KPH, less practical but does have a bit of wow factor.) They also have this one that tops out at at 300KPH which would mean i would be able to use more of the gauge during normal driving. I also like that these have built in signal indicators and high beams indicator. Makes things easier to wire up.

    crimp tools and connectors.jpg
    I now have proper crimping tools so i can make secure water tight connections. I have also ordered 10 weatherpack connector sets in each size (1, 2, 4, 6 pins). I will use them for wiring the AC, Audio system, gauge cluster, wiper, signal lights, etc.

    socket holding trans.jpg
    I had to take the rear transmission support off to weld in the wing mounts, i jacked up the trans, pulled the bolts then slowly lowered it onto a socket to keep the weight off the axles. Worked like a charm.

    I found this great video for wiring the Trinary switch. https://www.vintageair.com/tech-vide...rinary-switch/ Seems easy enough.

    wing mounts.jpg
    Wing mounts are now welded on along with the braces that come with the kit. They look a little uneven in this photo but they are exactly equal on both sides. I ground the welds down with a flap wheel on the top before painting so it all looks like one piece of steel. I then painted the whole assembly gloss black so everything matches and nothing rusts. I also took the time to paint the AC Accumulator bracket, i found that it was easiest to mount the bracket by bending over the mounting piece and screwing it into the top of the square tube.

    Before i put the rear mount back on i am going to use this convenient access to the rear end to finish securing all the e-brake cables and shifter cables so they stay clear of the exhaust. I may even pull the trans one last time to double check the clutch install.

    van and truck parts.jpg
    For some reason all my other vehicles decided to cry for attention, this stack of parts will take me away from the GTM for a few days. My minivan has a stuck rear caliper, and it has a leaking heater core, my 4x4 GMC broke 2 door handles and needs front U-joints. Parts are starting to roll in for those projects as well.

  27. #227
    VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tanderson1 View Post

    wing mounts.jpg
    Wing mounts are now welded on along with the braces that come with the kit. They look a little uneven in this photo but they are exactly equal on both sides. I ground the welds down with a flap wheel on the top before painting so it all looks like one piece of steel. I then painted the whole assembly gloss black so everything matches and nothing rusts. I also took the time to paint the AC Accumulator bracket, i found that it was easiest to mount the bracket by bending over the mounting piece and screwing it into the top of the square tube.
    Wow....that looks great!!
    Shane Vacek
    VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC
    www.vraptorspeedworks.com
    Turn-key GTM, SL-C & Ultima GTR Built to Your Specs!
    Offering a full line of GTM Upgrades and Custom Parts

  28. #228
    Senior Member tanderson1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC View Post
    Wow....that looks great!!
    you make it easy Shane, everything i buy from you is always a quality well thought out part.

  29. #229
    Senior Member Edgeman's Avatar
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    I would go with the 200, a lot easier to read at the low end. JMHO
    Yes the turn signal and high beam are incorporated in to the face.
    GTM #370
    Car was completed and I have SOLD my car
    http://edgemansgtm.weebly.com/index.html
    Doing what you like is freedom - liking what you do is happiness
    later,
    Doug

  30. #230
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    Quote Originally Posted by VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC View Post
    Wow....that looks great!!
    I agree, I'll likely have my welder do the same thing. I was going to re-powdercoat this support since FF was nice enough to ship my kit without the rear body mount on the frame, and therefore the powder coating got all jacked up even before I got it.

  31. #231
    Senior Member tanderson1's Avatar
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    got back from vacation a little early and had some free time.

    I mounted the AC accumulator bracket that i had previously painted. I also mounted the brake switch and pillow bearing piece behind the column. I then jacked up the front of the GTM and bled all of the air out of the coolant system.

    I then used the cardboard box that came with the gauges to make a temporary gauge pod and wired up all the necessary gauges so i could take a spin around the block.

    This is when i started to run into a new set of problems.
    1. The RPM gauge wont work.... I found some documents online, seems i may just need a 1K resistor wired into a 12v line.
    2. When the engine gets to 220 degrees or so only one fan kicks in.... shouldn't both kick in?
    3. The clutch peddle doesn't work right. No matter how much i depress the clutch it never disengages. I tried bleeding it again but that did nothing.


    if anyone has any ideas i am open to suggestions.

  32. #232
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    For #1, you likely do need a pull-up resistor (1k-5k ohm) wired to +12V.

    For #3, bleed the clutch again. The manual talks about bleeding the clutch with the bleed screw pointing up, off the transaxle. Do that. Make sure you hold the slave cylinder push rod with a clamp so it doesn't move when you bleed the system. When it's bled correctly, it will work.

    -Michael
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    SOLD JUNE 2018 - GTM #327, LS3, G50/20, Kooks, AC, Ron's Tanks, Crash's 4-port HCV, Shane's Bolts & Plenum & etc., plus a lot of other stuff. Finished November 2013.

    Not-up-to-date Build Site: http://rumrunnergtm.weebly.com

  33. #233
    Senior Member tanderson1's Avatar
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    how right you were.

    The pull up resister fixed the tach and the clutch just needed to be bled.... i tried to bleed it 5 times by myself, no luck. I changed the master configuration around so the line comes out the bottom and the bleeder is at the top which makes more sense. I then took a small hose and used that to bleed the master back into itself., i saw no air come out. The clutch still didn't work so i got a friend to sit inside and pump the peddle while i used a clamp to keep the slave pushed in... I then bled out the air while holding the bleeder as high as i could.... I found the air pocket, it was in the slave, pushing it in with the clamp released the air. After that it worked great. I readjusted the clutch stop so i don't wreck anything.

    After that i bolted in the seat, did a quick alignment with it on its tires and went for a rip down the block.

    First gear sounded great so i sped up and shifted into second and laid into it... then i saw my life flash before my eyes as the rear end shot out to the passenger side like a rocket and sent me straight toward the drivers side curb. I managed to regain control and just missed the curb but damn the car is touchy when it doesn't have any weight on it and the tires are cold. I now remember the manual mentioning that the car without the body weight was uncontrollable.

    i cant imagine driving one of these cars with more horse power...

  34. #234
    Senior Member beeman's Avatar
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    Ha, glad you didn't have an incident! The car won't be THAT much heavier with the body!
    Nice to hear you got those 2 issues sorted out.
    MK3.1 2004 Mach 1 donor. ABS, PS, TC.
    GTM #304 LPE 525hp LS3
    2000 C5 Lingenfelter LS1@489hp
    1999 Corvette FRC/Z06 track car

  35. #235
    LCD Gauges's Avatar
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    1. When the engine gets to 220 degrees or so only one fan kicks in.... shouldn't both kick in?
    It depends on the tune. Also check the wiring from the PCM/ECU

    What are you using to read the temperature and where are you reading the temperature?

    Custom LCD Gauges , Data Loggers, Control Touch Screens
    www.LCDdash.com \\ 647-522-9953 \\ Voice & Text
    Proud new owner of GTM Gen 1., #105 - 08/27/11
    LQ9 Powered, G96.00 6 speed transaxle

  36. #236
    Senior Member tanderson1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Procision-Auto View Post
    It depends on the tune. Also check the wiring from the PCM/ECU
    What are you using to read the temperature and where are you reading the temperature?
    funny i just downloaded the HPTuner app an hour ago and was looking at the same screen. Before I was reading the temp off the sensor that is installed in the block down by the starter, it reads out on the supplied autometer gauge. I did notice that in HP Tuner it shows two fan engagement temps. So chances are that my fans work fine and i just have not hit the second temp yet.

    I think i am going to pick up the HPTuner MPVI2 unit, I can use that to eliminate the last of my engine codes (emissions stuff) and get to play with lots of the other features.

    One of the features i was just looking at was around the AC system. I know that some people wire in an after market RPM switch into the AC compressor clutch so that it does not engage at high RPM. It seems that the factory ECU has that feature built in and its adjustable from HPTuners. I assume i would just need to wire in these 3 pins to make it work

    C2 Pin 14 A/C Refrigerant Pressure Sensor Signal (might just have to pull this high or ground it to trick the ECU... the trinary switch should provide the safety for me)
    C2 Pin 17 A/C Request Signal (I believe this would be the wire that would normally go to the compressor clutch)
    C2 Pin 18 A/C Status Signal (I believe this wire would now go to the compressor clutch)

    If i understand correctly the ECU would only pass the signal request to the compressor clutch if the RPM were not over the disable RPM or the disable TPS settings that can be changed in HPTuners.

  37. #237
    VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC's Avatar
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    In order to use the ECU to control the AC, you will have to have the donor C5 ECU. If that's what you have, then yes, I would highly recommend wiring the AC so it is controlled by the ECU....you'll need to wire up the C5 pressure switch to the ECU (3 wires), the AC request (blue wire from VA). If you have a crate ECU or later model (C6 or CTS-V) ECU, you will not be able to use the ECU to control the AC.

    Yes, on the fan settings, I've seen some GM ECU's that had the fan setting set to something like 225 degrees for the low speed fan and 336 degrees for the high speed fan. I would highly recommend getting in there and programming some much lower temps in if that is the case!
    Shane Vacek
    VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC
    www.vraptorspeedworks.com
    Turn-key GTM, SL-C & Ultima GTR Built to Your Specs!
    Offering a full line of GTM Upgrades and Custom Parts

  38. #238
    Senior Member tanderson1's Avatar
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    On-Again

    started working on the car again... i have an on-again off-again relationship with the car..... i am back to on-again.

    Wiring harness is now in, extra wires have been removed, I had to add a few new wires
    • Wiper fluid spray pump, not sure why this is missing from the painless harness, it has wires for the motor power, but not the sprayer
    • Door plungers (for dome light)
    • 2nd switched dome light wire
    • in the door i added a ground wire (not sure how good the ground would be as the door is not metal
    • electric mirror wires.
    • lock motor +
    • lock motor - (these are after the relays under the dash)
    • Power window wires, current wiring assumes the switches are in the door but i will put them in the center console as thats what the manual calls for.
    • electric column motor (for sliding it in and out)
    • ECU AC signal
    • side markers (the law where i live)
    • Fog lights


    I was surprised the so much was missing from the harness. Also i found it frustrating that the harness is clearly made for a front engine car. Also the documentation for wiring the vintage air unit was somewhat lacking. A quick google search turned up some good videos and a wiring diagram for trinary switches.

    But if it wasn't hard it wouldn't be worth doing. :-)

    I had to buy a few parts
    • Speedos were on sale at speed hut so i picked up a KPH unit, should be here in a few weeks.
    • I bought loom that was not split loom, i ended up getting rid of that and buying painless split loom, its much easier to use.
    • 12 gauge and 18 gauge wire in a variety of colors.
    • a vacuum coolant filling system, sucked the bubble right out of the coolant system.
    • I picked up an 8 relay holder that will bolt up under the dash to run the locks/highbeams/lowbeams/park lights/fog lights/vintage air/hazard lights. I found it weird that the kit only comes with 2 relays.


    I now have to test all of my wiring and complete a short 12 item list of picky little items before mounting the body on. Then its on to figuring out doors!

    And while i am giving updates i may as well ask a question. Does anyone know what these two pieces of aluminum are for?

    20190404_202657.jpg20190404_202726.jpg

  39. #239
    Senior Member beeman's Avatar
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    I'm right along side of you with the wiring process. Thanks for reminding me to run wires for door plungers to activate the dome light!
    MK3.1 2004 Mach 1 donor. ABS, PS, TC.
    GTM #304 LPE 525hp LS3
    2000 C5 Lingenfelter LS1@489hp
    1999 Corvette FRC/Z06 track car

  40. #240
    VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC's Avatar
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    On the harness and wiper washer pump.....that wire is part of the donor wiper harness...so there is no need for the painless harness to have that circuit. If you have the donor wiper harness, the pink wire runs direct from the column stalk switches to the washer pump. You will have to create your own ground for the pump.

    As for the 2 aluminum pieces, I think I used to know what those were for, but I have never used them....they end up going right in the alum recycling bin.
    Shane Vacek
    VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC
    www.vraptorspeedworks.com
    Turn-key GTM, SL-C & Ultima GTR Built to Your Specs!
    Offering a full line of GTM Upgrades and Custom Parts

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