Tanderson1's build thread..

[Edgeman]

I have seen this many times where the builder has not tamped the garage floor or watered the sand or gravel to prevent this. Time is money to them so they just get it done. Same with a drive way, if you pour it with in the first year you are going to have settling. This is why you have the void. If you tap the floor and drive way you will be able to tell all the hollow spots. You can get slab jackers in to fill that void. They will mix up a slurry and pump it under the slab and fill.

[tanderson1]

Yesterday I pulled both my van and my truck into the garage to ensure that the mounting points were close enough to the car yet far enough away that the doors could still allow me to climb in and out. I might have got a little carried away and decided to see if the weight of my 6000 lb truck would be ok... I lifted the truck 2" off the ground and the concrete gave way. Pulled the rear anchors right out of the slab. (that's why i only raised it 2 inches, truck didn't have far to fall.)

So now to fixing the problem. I used a side grinder (big one) with a masonry blade and cut out a square that is 3" wider then the lift plate in all directions. The blade is round so i cant get all the way into the corners without making a mess. I then went to the hardware store and bought a 10lb sledge hammer and started to beat the crap out of the square. Unsurprisingly it came out pretty easy. This did leave a substantial amount of dust on everything in the garage, i put plastic over the engine so no concrete dust would enter the intake/exhaust ports.

Now that the holes are done you can see what happened. The builder started by putting Re-bar directly onto the ground (not elevated at all). It would appear that the re-bar sunk into the soil a little before a 2" concrete slab was poured. The re-bar was sunk into the ground so the concrete never touched it (it floats under the floor). Many years pass and the ground started to sink leaving the re-bar just below the slab and creating a void.

You can see all of the cracks in the slab in the photos... now i know why.
IMG_0404.JPGIMG_0406.JPGIMG_0411.JPGIMG_0414.JPGIMG_0415.JPGIMG_0416.JPGIMG_0413.JPG


The thickest point is 2"... most of the slab is thinner...
IMG_0408.JPG

So the plan is to first call a slab jacking company to come look, I would like them to pump their liquid concrete under the complete slab. I think it would be best to put the 6000PSI footings in first, then have them drill a series of 1" holes around the slab to pump in their mixture.

In other news I finished off the last of the brake assemblies now the the parts have arrived. I was side tracked with the concrete work but i should have the column done today or tomorrow.

[tanderson1]

IMG_0420.JPG

Steering column is now completed. Taped up the lower portion to throw a quick coat of black paint on it. I bought the motorized column, i read that it was harder to modify... truth be told it was really easy to complete the modifications and i think it will be a priceless feature for getting in and out of the car.

I have now completed everything I can before the kit arrives..... fingers crossed for customs paperwork....

In the meanwhile i plan on
-fixing the concrete in the garage
- putting up the last of the drywall around the outside edges
- getting the lift reinstalled
- maybe build a bigger work bench.
- Costco has a sale on garage cabinets.... tempting.
- I bought a jack shaft garage door opener and high lift kit so i can lift cars higher... that has to be installed.

[tanderson1]

IMG_0422.JPG
Had to modify the new rubber dust covers for the e-brake. A few seconds on the belt sander and they fit perfect.


IMG_0427.JPGIMG_0426.JPGIMG_0428.JPGIMG_0430.JPG
I put the spindles/bearings/brakes together. I will attach the upper and lower A arms after the body arrives, for now the units remain smaller if there not assembled.

Tomorrow the first contracting company comes to look at the concrete floor.... Fingers crossed.

[TouchStone]

the brake disks look like they are made of plastic. Are they zinc plated?

[crash]

Um, you have a serious flaw in your buildings slab. You need to talk to the builder about this. It is not going to be fixed by pumping more concrete in under what you have there.

[LCD Gauges]

Why is the re-bar exposed? Isn't that supposed to be embedded in the concrete (IE: steel reinforced concrete)?

When I had my hoist installed, the tech cautioned that the slab was 0.5-1.0" too thin. Recommended minimum was 4.0 inches
(you are showing 2.0!). He said that pouring footing would solve the issue, but I had to wait 3 months for the concrete to harden,
and he advised not to fully load the max capacity hoist for at least a year (as the concrete hardened more).

[tanderson1]

the brake disks look like they are made of plastic. Are they zinc plated?

Here are the pictures of the box... according to the box its "MetaCote Protective Coating"... not sure what that means
IMG_0436.JPGIMG_0437.JPGIMG_0438.JPGIMG_0439.JPG

Um, you have a serious flaw in your buildings slab. You need to talk to the builder about this. It is not going to be fixed by pumping more concrete in under what you have there.

2 concrete companies today came to look and both recommended pumping 6-8" of concrete or poly under the slab that will make contact with the existing rebar. Before that i will dig down 4 feet to create footings for the lift. These footings will overlap under the existing slab locking them in. I will also put new rebar into the footings to lock them into the existing Rebar. My house is 11 years old, in Canada the home warranty forced by the government only covers 10 years, also i checked and 11 years ago they only forced a 5 year warranty.

Why is the re-bar exposed? Isn't that supposed to be embedded in the concrete (IE: steel reinforced concrete)?
When I had my hoist installed, the tech cautioned that the slab was 0.5-1.0" too thin. Recommended minimum was 4.0 inches
(you are showing 2.0!). He said that pouring footing would solve the issue, but I had to wait 3 months for the concrete to harden,
and he advised not to fully load the max capacity hoist for at least a year (as the concrete hardened more).

Ya, its supposed to be locked in... this i'm sure is what the lowest bid supplied. 4" is what my lift indicates as well. 3000psi concrete takes 30-60 days to get to 3000psi but i am going to use 6000psi concrete which should harden to 3000psi within 28 days. We don't have humid air here that may be why we don't have to wait 3 months. Regardless the lift can lift 6000 lbs, the frame of the GTM is <1000 lbs so i don't plan to fully load it for some time anyway.

while I was waiting for the concrete guys i finished removing the tape from the now freshly painted column. Looks good enough to be hidden in the dash :-)
IMG_0441.JPG

Concrete quotes are around $1800 not including the lift footings. I can live with that. (they are also going to repair the driveway which i didn't even notice was cracking as well). I will finish the footings on my own this weekend and set the calendar for 28 days.

[tanderson1]

Tomorrow marks the 2 week mark for my resubmitted paperwork to Transport Canada. (5 weeks since i sent it in the first time but they lost it that time).... hope to have that paperwork back soon.

did anyone else have this much trouble with transport Canada? (obviously a question for the other Canadians)

[tanderson1]

Customs paperwork came today. 2 weeks to the day of when i submitted the second time.
(I did send them an email yesterday asking about the status so its possible the poking is what make it come)

Update: Talked to Factory Five, kit is completely built and waiting for pickup. I called Stewart transport, waiting for a call back.
Update2: SMC Performance quote was completed for my complete wiring harness (fuel/rad/engine). price is <$1000 so I am ordering that today.
Update3: Stewart Transport is estimating that the the kit will be in Montana by the week of March 16th.... this gives me just shy of a month to finish the concrete work.

[LCD Gauges]

its possible the poking is what make it come

This has the same effect on women as well.


Come on, tell me that wasn't funny!?

[tanderson1]

This has the same effect on women as well.


Come on, tell me that wasn't funny!?

cant say i didn't laugh....
images.jpg

[tanderson1]

found a cool rearview mirror today (actually a coworker found it for me)
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/5-inc...363649043.html

Might help with the lack of rear visibility, just leave the rear camera on all the time showing whats behind you. I tried to find one that was 100% LCD but this is the biggest i could find.

[tanderson1]

IMG_0447.JPGIMG_0448.JPGIMG_0449.JPGIMG_0450.JPGIMG_0451.JPG

Dug a bit, slow progress because i cant fit a shovel in between the re-bar holes. I ended up using a metal crow bar and a blue parts bin as a scoop, I originally planned to dig down 4' but after getting to 3' and struggling to reach the bottom i decided that 3' is deep enough. :-). Not to worried about the frost line as the garage is heated and I don't think the ground under the garage freezes.


Untitled.jpg
So this is a picture of what the plan is.
Black is the current slab
Green is the new concrete i will be pouring in to make the footings
Grey is the existing mud/dirt under the pad

The new concrete will be poured though the existing re-bar, I will also add 16' of Re-bar into the new holes. The holes are 1.5' wide and 3' deep, it will also lock into the bottom of the existing slab. This should produce a safe footing for the lift.

Also think i might pick up one of the 996 "budget" gearboxes from "The Race Line".... just need to make time to call Erik and talk about gearing and the options for limited slip.

[tanderson1]

so I took the time to put together a quick spreadsheet today (I know "budget" is a dirty word on this forum)

So far it looks like the total build cost is going to be $86,902.15 CAD. A few pieces drive that cost higher then the initial estimate... mostly the value of the Canadian dollar ($.20 on the dollar right now). This price also includes money spent on tools that i didn't have already (lift, engine hoist, engine stand, brake line benders, etc)

I only have a few big purchases left.
$6600 CAD for VSpeedWorks for Exhaust, brackets and body mods.
$500 CAD or so from My Race Shop for heater bypass, etc.
$10K-$15K CAD for the transaxel
$8K CAD for Misc parts (Fuel System, Aluminum tanks, belts, tools, traction Control, shifter, Powder coating)

no one tell my wife. :-)
(I will be purchasing LS7 parts (like Exhaust) whenever possible as I think i might be upgrading the LS1 to an LS7 in the first few years of driving it)

PS. Tonight I will be working on Rebar and the last prep for the concrete work that needs to be completed.

[tanderson1]

IMG_0458.JPGIMG_0459.JPGIMG_0460.JPGIMG_0461.JPG

Rebar done, not the prettiest but functional. I used green epoxy rebar and i sprayed the old rebar with an epoxy coat as well.

Bending the rebar was a little problematic and i managed to catch my leg with my BFH while trying to bend the last piece. I am only walking with a bit of a limp :-).

I picked up 10 bags of 6000 PSI concrete, i bet its not enough but i should get a better idea after i fill the first hole tomorrow.

(about two weeks until the kit arrives... which is perfect because i have some work to finish.

[fastthings]

You remind me of me, getting all your ducks in a row. I had to build a garage while my kit was sitting/waiting. Fun to follow a new build thread.

I need some kind of lift, what a crazy find, with your floor.

[tanderson1]

You remind me of me, getting all your ducks in a row. I had to build a garage while my kit was sitting/waiting. Fun to follow a new build thread.
I need some kind of lift, what a crazy find, with your floor.

Thanks, i have enjoyed your thread/video's... your getting close to the finish line.

I think the build will go much smoother and I will have a little more patience if I have a nice clean and easy to use work environment. I also plan on having my kids out there with me so it also needs to be safe for them.

Once the concrete is completed I have:

1. Some drywall to hang on the lower 3rd of the wall surrounding the garage
2. Fill the drywall holes along both walls (leave the roof the way it is for now)
3. hang some slat wall for handy tool storage (like wrenches, hammers/mallets, etc)
4. Build a wood box out of scraps i have in my garage to space cabinets around one of the support beams (gets the scraps out of the way)
5. If i have time i will order some cabinets (looking at the 18 gauge steel NewAge cabinets)
6. with any luck everything will be cleaned up and ready to set the chassis on the lift when it arrives.

[The Stig]

You remind me of me, getting all your ducks in a row. I had to build a garage while my kit was sitting/waiting. Fun to follow a new build thread.

I need some kind of lift, what a crazy find, with your floor.

Agreed! Something tells me that this one will be fun to follow. It's already obvious that you're able convert adversity into something positive for you.

Rock on Mr. Anderson

[tanderson1]

Thanks Stig, I think you will find that i am always a glass half full kind of guy who enjoys a good challenge. I really think you have to be like that to complete a build like this.


Today was concrete day, I searched online and found a guy down the street from me that bought a cement mixer and rents it out to people in the community for $25, I thought that was a hell of a deal. I bought 10 bags of 6000PSI concrete (twice the PSI spec that is required in the lift guidelines). I started mixing bags and shoveling them into the holes and it became very evident that 10 bags was no where close to what was required. I left the mixer running and quickly made it to the hardware store to buy 11 more bags before they closed for the night. In total 21 bags left me with about half a bag of extra concrete. I used my hands to push as much concrete as i could up and under the slab to lock the lift footing into the existing slab/rebar.

I also took the time to level the footings even though the garage floor is not level (slopes toward the door). This way the lift will be mounted without shims and will lift the vehicle vertically.

The concrete mixer was a great idea that i feel did save a lot of time however it took about 2.5 hours to clean it. If it was summer i could use a hose but its winter and -20 outside so i had to clean it in the garage using hot water in buckets, SOS pads, and a flat screw driver. It's important to me that it be returned cleaner then i when i got it, I just didn't realize how hard that would be.

IMG_0463.JPGIMG_0464.JPGIMG_0465.JPG

Parts should be here Thursday to convert the garage door over to high lift so i can lift vehicles all the way up to the roof without the garage door or opener getting in the way. I will take some pictures of that as i go. Cost to buy the opener, drums, cables, spring bars, springs, track extensions, etc all totaled a little under $1000. I called around before buying the parts myself and the cheapest bid was $700 just for labor, parts were an additional $900. Figured I could do it myself, I watched a YouTube video.... that makes me an expert now. :-)

[fastthings]

I agree, got to love youtube.

[tanderson1]

G96.01.jpg

Erik (The Race Line) sent me a picture of the transaxel today. Erik promised me some photos as its torn down and and modified, i will be sure to post those as well.

The high lift garage door parts should be here tomorrow, might be a few days before i have the time to install it.

[tanderson1]

Trans questions.

looks like i will have to create my own rear trans mount.

The Porsche uses a mount like this
index.jpg

When mounted it looks like this
images.jpgpic11.jpg

am i correct in assuming that this whole unit will mount upside down?
Does anyone have photos of a 996 trans being mounted in a GTM?

PS I have read a bit about solid mounts (still rubber but no spacers). Are these the units i should pick up..
http://www.maperformance.com/torque-...1998-2011.html
http://www.torquesolution.com/product-p/ts-por-012.htm

or the factory type
http://www.suncoastparts.com/product/99737503303.html

or for $130 i have found rubber pieces that make the stock unit solid.
http://function-first.com/products/e...s-mount-insert

or complete replacement bushings
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Porsche-911-...886733&vxp=mtr

Update 1:
or do i have this all wrong, because the picture that Eric sent me as a rubber mount on the trans. Should i just bolt that to two solid metal plates welded and re-enforced to the frame. (more like the image below)
carrier.jpg

Update 2:
Did some more reading and i think the mount i am looking for looks like the "update 1" image. I can make this myself using some steel.... thoughts?

[tanderson1]

More pictures of the Trans

$(KGrHqFHJ!8E9!82sfnMBPgi+YqNJ!~~60_1.JPG$(KGrHqFHJBkE9r6,rl!(BPgi+Ffm6w~~60_1.JPG$(KGrHqFHJDME91DEEbR-BPgi+Q6pNQ~~60_1.JPG$(KGrHqJ,!oQE9fivOIzPBPgkr-HnkQ~~60_1.JPG$(KGrHqRHJEEE94gWt8S1BPgi+Zb27Q~~60_1.JPG$(KGrHqVHJFYE916-2RLnBPgi+NVil!~~60_1.JPG

[tanderson1]

So the driver from Stewart Transport called me to tell me he is on his way, he has over 1000 miles to cover first but he is on his way. With weather the way it sits now it looks like the kit will be in Sweetgrass on the 17th or 18th of March (early next week). I will drive down early in the AM and cross the border into Montana, I will then wait in the big parking lot (eagerly) until he arrives.

I will be sure to get lots of photos including the iconic "car hanging from crane on tractor trailer"

[tanderson1]

little update.

1) Transmission looks like it should come close to aligning with tabs that are already welded to the GTM frame, When the unit is shipped to me i can double check how close those tabs really are. I think those tabs and a couple of gussets welded to reinforce from the side should be sufficient. (means i don't have to buy anything additional)

2) Haven't heard from the Stewart Transport driver in a few days, I think that means the delivery wont be Monday, hoping for Tuesday or Wednesday. Monday is my wife's birthday anyway, that would not be a good start to the project, I will say something like "honey i need to go out of town on your birthday....", she will hear "Honey i bought a car that is becoming more important then you" :-)

3) I have all my paperwork in order ready to go at a moments notice
Passport, invoice, customs letter, declaration to import, etc.
I also loaded up the trailer with tarps, straps, etc.

4) Cant secure the 2 post lift down for a few more days. Everything I read said to wait 28 days for the concrete to complete its curing.

5) Engine harness was completed by SMC Performance. I dealt with Shaun Carter, they were great to work with, I provided them pictures of my sensors and ECU, sent them my VIN so they could verify the year/etc. From that they created a harness complete with extended fan wires and fuel harness. Its in the mail now, should be here soon.

6) The Canadian GTM kit was partially shipped from Factory Five to Breeze Automotive, still missing the steering rack... unfortunately that's one of the first parts that i need.


Once the kit comes the plan is to
1) Verify all the parts are there and arrived intact.
2) take the body and body pieces to another garage for storage.
2) Identify all of the aluminum parts that require powder coating and send them away.
3) Start mounting Aluminum and mounting the suspension so the chassis can roll.
4) I can then mount the new engine parts (relocation brackets) and get the engine mounted.

My goal is to push for starting the engine as fast as possible, I figure the longer the engine sits, the more likely the valves are to rust.... and i really want to start it :-), after that I will start with brakes and finished wiring.

I intend to leave the body work until last, the chassis will be completed, aligned and drive-able (not legally) before the body gets put back on.

[Edgeman]

I think the tabs were for the G50 trans to bolt on to. Same as the 966 on the back end.

[tanderson1]

Stewart Transport Truck will be meeting me at the border crossing in 20 hours.... (Driver called this morning). I cant say enough kind things about Stewart Transport, the driver is super friendly and calls me every day to let me know how the schedule is holding up.

I have my paperwork, passport, straps, tarps, truck and flat deck all fueled up and ready to go....

Funny, tomorrow will be the first time i will have ever seen a GTM in person, hope i like it :-). I have seen many photos but never actually seen one in person.
(As far as i know i will be the first in my City to build one, I only know of one in my province (Edgeman)).

Quite excited, Actually kinda happy that i have to go on a road trip to go pick it up... adds to the whole experience.

[kabacj]

Bring a few 2/4s to put across on the deck so you can support the frame and body above the actual flatbed. That will get your car home blemish free.

Good luck.

John

[tanderson1]

Bring a few 2/4s to put across on the deck so you can support the frame and body above the actual flatbed. That will get your car home blemish free.

Good luck.

John

Good advice,

So 3x 8' 2x4's screwed to the deck width wise to set the frame on?
Or do you run two on the left and right sides of the frame so the frame doesn't slide around?

My flat deck already has a wood floor, so im thinking putting one on the left and one on the right to lock the frame in, that should work best.

[Fraser D]

With the body on the frame the rocker panels roll back under the frame. You will see when you unload the truck. Hope that you brought a screw gun. Sorry if this comes too late. Congrats on picking up your kit

[tanderson1]

With the body on the frame the rocker panels roll back under the frame. You will see when you unload the truck. Hope that you brought a screw gun. Sorry if this comes too late. Congrats on picking up your kit

not to late, just heading out the door now, screws and drill are now loaded in the truck :-)

Thanks.

[mikespms]

not to late, just heading out the door now, screws and drill are now loaded in the truck :-)

Thanks.

Another indispensable item is duct tape, It works great for securing panels and things. You will see that factory five uses duct tape on the windows and door but if you are using an open trailer I would double up on the windows and doors. A couple of wood pallets with carpet to put under the frame and ratchet straps to tie the frame to the trailer.

[tanderson1]

Car is now safely at my house (still on the trailer for now), sorry for the novel but its been a long and interesting day.

The day started off at 7AM, I picked up my friend Robb and started the drive from Calgary AB Canada to Sweetgrass MT USA .

It took about 3.5 hours to get to Lethbridge Alberta, we stopped at the Home Depot and picked up 3 2x4's, some screws and duct tape (thanks guys). We received a call from Jim (the Stewart Transport driver), he let us know that he was running about one hour behind. From there we headed off to the border crossing, the customs agent on the USA side was a bit harsh but a common border crossing attitude, "why do you need a trailer to haul car parts, why couldn't you buy these parts in Canada? Why dont you have money, how are you going to pay for the parts". It wasn't so much the questions but the tone of voice. Regardless he let us go though.

We arrived in Sweetgrass at 11:30AM. Both of us were unable to get cell phone reception, the Stewart Transport driver asked us to wait in "the big parking lot on the US side" so we figured that meant the lot across from the duty free. Jim (truck driver) arrived around 1:10PM (on time). He opened up the back of his trailer and in i went to get my first look at the car. To be honest its almost exactly what i expected. The Fiberglass seams are a little rougher then i expected but the size and overall look of the car are exactly what i was expecting.

I backed my trailer up to his in one of the truck rest stop lanes. Jim indicated that he has done this many times and there were no signs around to indicate that this was against any rules. About 5 minutes into the move an unmarked truck with a border official in it came around to tell us that were not allowed to transfer trucks at this specific rest stop .... So we closed up the truck and headed down the road. It had snowed the day before so it was easy to tell what roads were used and which roads in the small town had 0 traffic. So we found a road with no tire marks on it (most roads in sweet grass are dead ends at the border and just have storage yards), we started transferring boxes again (no traffic around) and the owner of "at the border storage" walked over from his warehouse that was nearby to tell us that he was going to "phone the cops" and we would have to pay him to be able to move the contents over on his property.

If your reading this please never use or pay the jack A$$ that owns "at the border storage", he could have been polite about the whole thing and maybe earned some business but he decided it would be easier to threaten the Stewart Transport driver. (I will be posting some negative reviews around the web about him and his company as a result, what goes around..... )

So instead i drove to a nearby meat packing plant and asked at their head office if we could use the large lot at the back of their building. Nicest guy in the world, i honestly tried to offer him money but he wouldn't take it. I believe his words were "my guys aren't moving the boxes, you don't owe me anything". The world needs more people like him. We setup at the meat packing plant and started moving boxes over. One by one we moved boxes into the bed of my GMC 2500HD, there were a lot more boxes then i though there would be, the boxes filled the bed past the roof and filled the back seat of the truck.

Jims truck had a wood floor just like my trailer and the GTM was sitting directly on that floor (there was some cardboard between them). I decided to put the GTM directly on my trailer using the same cardboard. We then used 2 4" straps to hold the car down the the trailer and put a tarp over the car. We then used the 3 2x4's screwed down to the deck with the tarp sandwiched between them. This worked great, the car never moved the whole trip.

It was then time to head back across the border, I was dreading this part, i have imported cars before and Canadian customs tends to be worse then US customs. I got into the car line up like usual and proceeded to the window, pulled out our passports and paperwork and was greeted by the kindest most open border agent i have ever met. He showed me where to pull over and handed me a paper to hand the agent inside. I went inside and talked to the agent inside and he was incredible, he asked a lot of questions about the car, commented on how nice it was that I had all the paperwork ready. All in all a very pleasant experience. The only negative part was when it came to pay the GST (Tax), I brought the bank transfer document that showed what I paid for the kit in Canadian dollars back when our exchange rate wasn't as bad. Turns out they use the kits USD price and work out the GST (Tax) cost using the exchange rate for the day of import. This amounted to $300 more in GST (Tax).... I was just happy to get through customs so i just smiled, nodded, paid and headed back out to the Truck.

While filling out the paperwork inside the customs office i was watching out the window as people would walk by the car, stop, look at it, walk back, look again, ponder, then walk away.... you could just tell they were trying to figure out what it was.

The whole trip took 13 hours.

We unloaded all of the boxes from the truck into the garage and started checking out the new loot. Some boxes were packed tight, some big boxes have hardly anything in them. My whole garage is full of parts boxes.... I did start looking over the boxes of parts, its seems to be a mix of high quality parts and some (being polite) "budget components". I can tell that some of these pieces will never make it on the car, i will be replacing them before the cause me headaches. Its now dark outside and I'm exhausted so I'm calling it a night. I will now have to compare the contents of each box with the manifest that i was provided, I think this may take a few hours to complete.

I then plan on putting the parts together in boxes by project timeline... that way i can bury the interior in the back of the shed so it doesn't take up valuable garage space.

Then the next challenge is to get the car off the trailer, my plan is to:

1. get the lift mounted to the floor
2. back the flat deck into the garage
3. use a jack to lift the front of the GTM off the trailer and into the air
4. swing the front set of lift arms on the 2 post lift under the front of the GTM
5. jack the back of the GTM off the trailer with the jack
6. swing the rear set of lift arms on the 2 post lift under the back of the GTM
7. use the lift to lift the whole car up past the wheel wells of the trailer
8. pull the trailer out of the way

There are 3 birthdays (Son, Daughter, Wife) over the next 4 days so i may not get any more time this week to move any further.

Pictures or it didn't happen.
IMG_0498.JPGIMG_0499.JPGIMG_0512.JPGIMG_0519.JPGIMG_0525.JPG

[TouchStone]

Congrats on getting your kit and making it through the day.

[Fraser D]

Sounds like it is not all sweet in Sweetgrass.
Great to hear that you now have your little project back to the house.
Now it gets interesting.

[crash]

Just an idea, but instead of all the lifting and positioning of the lift and then lifting to clear the wheel wells, etc. you could also just lift the car like Stewart did, through the windows on the upper cage members. Don't know if you can slide the lift rails in as you back the car/trailer into position or not, as getting them in the windows once the rig is in position may be a bit difficult. Just a thought.

[Edgeman]

You might have a list of back order stuff they will send them to you.
Congrats on getting the car home. I did not have that kind of trouble but you made it ..

[tanderson1]

I went though all the boxes today, took about 5 hours, went slowly package by package dumped one at a time out on a table and counted bolts, washers, etc. There were no back-ordered parts, my GTM shipped complete.

Looks like i am short about 15 parts, i will send that list off to Factory Five. Most of the missing parts are small parts. The rearview mirror is also broken. I sorted all the parts into new boxes organized by the portion of the manual that they line up with. I have a truck full of parts and the body to take to another garage (they wont be needed for a while).

IMG_0526.JPG

[RumRunner]

Is Factory Five now including a pink stroller in the kit to help move the parts/engine/transaxle around?

-Michael