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Thread: JJ's 818s Build

  1. #1
    Senior Member TouchStone's Avatar
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    JJ's 818s Build

    Hi All,

    I got my kit and donor last October and I've been putting off my build thread till I've made some decent progress. As this is my first auto build I'm hoping that other members reading this thread may catch any mistakes I've made. Also It would be helpful if you suggest easy tips and tricks for areas where I struggled with.

    I really want to end up with an excellent looking 818 similar to many other members on this forum.

    Full build photo album https://flic.kr/s/aHskbCzjtJ
    Last edited by TouchStone; 06-02-2015 at 08:54 AM.

  2. #2
    Senior Member TouchStone's Avatar
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    Donor Arrived

    Since this is my first build I decided to get a donor kit from Wayne. I didn't want to deal with the Impreza tear down, maybe next time. I got a 2003 WRX with about 120K miles.

    My donor arrived early October and this is the shipping crate it came in. The size of it immediately turned my 2 car garage into 1 and a quarter car garage.

    2014-10-06 15.01.38.jpg

    After un-crating it I left the engine sit in the bottom of the crate until just last week. That rats nets of wires is rather unsettling.

    2014-10-06 18.08.21.jpg

    More donor parts.
    2014-10-06 16.53.13.jpg2014-10-06 16.53.27.jpg

    The first thing I did was clean up the donor's brakes and front control arms with a wire wheel. Here they are about half way cleaned.
    2014-10-17 22.44.53.jpg2014-10-17 22.45.08.jpg

    I didn't do much else until the kit arrived.
    Last edited by TouchStone; 07-30-2015 at 10:20 PM.

  3. #3
    Senior Member TouchStone's Avatar
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    Kit Arrived - Nov 02, 2014

    And it begins!
    2014-11-02 18.35.55.jpg

    First thing was to install the front firewall. I'd never spray painted before but I think it went pretty well. I also through together a cardboard paint booth with a box fan in the back. With the booth I put a black gloss on the cockpit side and a rubberized coating on the other side of the aluminum panels.

    2014-11-03 17.59.19.jpg2014-11-03 17.58.33.jpgIMAG0240.jpgIMAG0241.jpg

    All in place and riveted.

  4. #4
    Senior Member TouchStone's Avatar
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    Adding the front suspension, left side first. I don't have a press to get out the wheel bearings so for now Ill be leaving it as is.
    IMAG0244cp.jpgIMAG0245.jpg

    Following another members post I de-powered the steering rack.

    IMAG0260.jpgDSC_0056.jpgDSC_0058.jpg

    It was difficult to remove the piston without damaging the rack. I got it off by grinding both sides and then wedging apart the 2 halves with a flat head, this made it super easy.

    DSC_0059.jpgDSC_0062.jpg

    Below I removed and cleaned the front axle and universal joint bearings.

    IMAG0250.jpgIMAG0252.jpg

    Here is the completed front suspension including the Koni shocks.

    IMAG0253.jpg
    *This picture was taken just before I de-powered the rack, notice the hydraulic lines still in place

  5. #5
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Hey JJ,
    Welcome and great start,
    Flip the big bushing over on the end of the lower control arms.
    This will actually move your front tires about 3/8" forward giving you much needed tire clearance.
    Where are you at? I hope you have a warm garage.
    Bob
    818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
    My Son Michael's Turbo ICE Build X22 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rts-818S-Build
    My Electric Supercar Build X21 (on hold until winter) http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-Build-Thread

  6. #6
    Senior Member svanlare's Avatar
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    Welcome. Looks like good progress and nice work.
    -Steve

  7. #7
    Senior Member wleehendrick's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TouchStone View Post
    As this is my first auto build I'm hoping that other members reading this thread may catch any mistakes I've made. Also It would be helpful if you suggest easy tips and tricks for areas where I struggled with.
    Welcome! Post pix and ask questions... people aren't shy around here. There is a tips and tricks thread, which is good to read through. The most common errors I've seen have been suspension pieces installed backwards/swapped/upside down, etc... the fact that there are two mirror image pieces lends itself to that goof.

    Quote Originally Posted by TouchStone View Post
    I really want to end up with an excellent looking 818 similar to many other members on this forum.
    I'm sure you will.

  8. #8
    Senior Member billjr212's Avatar
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    let me just say your "paint booth" is awesome. I made a little tower out of PVC (kind of like ladder ball, if you've ever played that) so i could hang the various pieces that needed to be painted and hit all sides at once.

    Definitely bookmark and catch up on the "tips and tricks" thread as mentioned above. Make sure to read it all the way through since there have been a few amendments/modifications to the tips along the way.

    Here is a link: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...tips-add-yours

  9. #9
    Senior Member TouchStone's Avatar
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    I'm in Dallas Texas. This last weekend's weather was amazing, I got a bunch of painting done and ready for install.
    IMAG0492.jpgIMAG0493.jpgIMAG0495.jpg

  10. #10
    Senior Member TouchStone's Avatar
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    The donor brakes are a nice and pretty yellow.

    2014-10-31 17.11.24.jpg

    Installed the donor pedal box and steering wheel. Wasn't too difficult, just some weird fitment between the aluminum panel, steel frame and pedal box.

    DSC_0064.jpgDSC_0063.jpg

    After installing the accelerator pedal according to the 818 manual I decided I really didn't like the position of the pedal or the short pedal throw due to the pedal box being in the way. So I cut off the top section of the FFR supplied bracket to recess the top mount. You can see the rivnut where the pedal used to mount to. Not only did this move the pedal forward aligning with the brake almost perfectly, it increased the pedal throw by over an inch. I had to drill out several more holes in the firewall because the FFR bracket is now sitting flush which leaves no clearance for the bolts that mount the pedal to the bracket. Instead all 4 bolts mount directly to the firewall. I left the metal bracket in place just as a stiffener to the aluminum.

    bracket scrap.jpgDSC_0102.jpgDSC_0103.jpgDSC_0101.jpg

    Since I had cut of the top mount point I drilled out another mount point just below the cable.

    DSC_0104.jpg

    I was rather upset when I went to connect the cable to the pedal because the plastic clip that seats the cable ball broke while I was trying to seat it. It looked like the pedal hole was too small for the plastic clip. I may fix this better later but currently I just silicone it in place which works well since I could now align the mount point to the firewall pass-through.

  11. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by TouchStone View Post
    I was rather upset when I went to connect the cable to the pedal because the plastic clip that seats the cable ball broke while I was trying to seat it. It looked like the pedal hole was too small for the plastic clip. I may fix this better later but currently I just silicone it in place which works well since I could now align the mount point to the firewall pass-through.
    I broke mine too. I designed a replacement fitting and 3D printed it. If anyone wants the .stl file PM me.

    Screen Shot 2015-01-22 at 6.38.06 PM.png

    Larry
    Last edited by K3LAG; 01-22-2015 at 06:42 PM.

  12. #12
    Senior Member TouchStone's Avatar
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    Ill take the stl file. I've got a printer at work.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by K3LAG View Post
    I broke mine too. I designed a replacement fitting and 3D printed it. If anyone wants the .stl file PM me.

    Screen Shot 2015-01-22 at 6.38.06 PM.png

    Larry
    I can host the file forever if you want. I also would like a copy.

    TouchStone, good job so far. Things are looking great.

  14. #14
    Senior Member TouchStone's Avatar
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    Engine Dissasembly


    Removed alternator and compressor


    Left: Removed Intake Manifold Right: Removed Exhaust Manifold


    Removed timing belt and pulleys. Removed camshaft covers, dont forget to catch the oil

  15. #15
    Senior Member TouchStone's Avatar
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    Removed camshafts and buckets. Cylinder head valves


    Short block



    List of issues found

    • Cracks were found on the cylinder heads from the spark plug to each the valves.
    • Crackshaft had score-marks on the journals.
    • Cylinders out of round with scratches
    • Piston with broken 2nd land

  16. #16
    Senior Member Tamra's Avatar
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    Were you planning on a full engine rebuild? We weren't and found some unfortunate surprises that kind of forced us to. Then, the, "well while we're at it" took over and we went all out (watch out it adds up quick!), but it's been fun. What's your plan?
    Tamra
    Building 818SR #297 picked up 10/25/14 with Andrew (xxguitarist)
    First start 12/21/14, First "drive" 1/17/15
    First Dyno at EFI Logics 3/7/15- 310whp at 15psi for break in, full spool by ~3500rpm!
    First autocross 3/29/15
    1st Registered 818 in Connecticut 7/24/2015. 9 months - 1 day from kit pickup!

  17. #17
    Senior Member TouchStone's Avatar
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    My goal in this build is to learn as much as I can so I was planning to rebuild the motor. However with these issues I didn't feel comfortable rebuilding it myself so I took it to a shop and they recommended scrapping most of the engine. I'm having them build a 2.5L engine out of the few useful parts leftover.

  18. #18
    Senior Member TouchStone's Avatar
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    Taking apart my donor transmission I found a damaged part in between the 3rd/4th syncro and 3rd gear. It looks like a plate to keep the shift sleeve from moving to far is pretty chewed up. I think it was fine running the transmission like this but I want to replace it so doesn't cause any other problems. I looked on parts.subaru.com but it looks like this plate is actually attached to a gear and I cant tell if its p/n 32214 or 32650. Anyone know where I can get just the plate?
    http://parts.subaru.com/showAssembly...bly=g11-114-02




    I also need to replace the 5th-Rev fork as the plastic bushing is cracked.

    Last edited by TouchStone; 02-09-2015 at 08:55 PM.
    818S Chassis #288 2.5L 323hp
    Ordered: 9/19/14 Received Kit: 11/2/14 First Start: 5/31/15 First Drive: 6/7/15 Registered: 3/10/2016 Completed: 2/10/2017
    Status: Complete Build Thread Sold 9/22/2017
    joshuajach.com

  19. #19
    Senior Member TouchStone's Avatar
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    This weekend I cleaned up the air intake manifold, removed the tumble generator valves and took percautionary measures to beat the clearance issue between the transmission and bumper.



    I'm planning on sealing the left over valve holes by tapping them and installing a bolt.



    I cut off a tab from the supplied FFR bracket and welded it on in reverse. Should help a bit.

    818S Chassis #288 2.5L 323hp
    Ordered: 9/19/14 Received Kit: 11/2/14 First Start: 5/31/15 First Drive: 6/7/15 Registered: 3/10/2016 Completed: 2/10/2017
    Status: Complete Build Thread Sold 9/22/2017
    joshuajach.com

  20. #20
    Member sbak's Avatar
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    When you get down to the brakes; I had, until recently a '05 Forester XT MT. That car went through a few mods added and retuned (323 hp) including bigger brakes. To save some $$ I ordered rebuilt '06 WRX 4 pot/2pot calipers from one of the online tire retailers. (not sure if I can say their name here so I won't ). The worked great.. stiffened up the pedal and response over stock subie calipers.

  21. #21
    Senior Member dallas_'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TouchStone View Post
    I'm in Dallas Texas.
    Looks good JJ.
    I haven't seen an 818 before. If you're up for a visitor I'd love to check it out one of these days.
    John
    FFR 7123 tilt front, Levy 5link/wilwoods/LCA's, webers.
    SL-C, LS3 525, Mendeola SDR5,

  22. #22
    nkw8181's Avatar
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    Another dallas build. We need to meet up and compare notes lol. Looking good. I decided to leave the engine alone other the maintenance stuff.
    Nolan
    65 coupe Gen 3 "Phoenix" build
    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...032#post297032

    818 s (with r windscreen ) 350 rwhp. Registered and street legal (SOLD)

  23. #23
    Senior Member TouchStone's Avatar
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    The engine was pretty beat up, so I took it to auto science and they are gonna build me a long block 2.5L. Should be ready sometime next week.
    818S Chassis #288 2.5L 323hp
    Ordered: 9/19/14 Received Kit: 11/2/14 First Start: 5/31/15 First Drive: 6/7/15 Registered: 3/10/2016 Completed: 2/10/2017
    Status: Complete Build Thread Sold 9/22/2017
    joshuajach.com

  24. #24
    Senior Member TouchStone's Avatar
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    I'm adding a personal touch to the FFR transmission backplate next week. I'm going to engrave and color fill one of the three designs into the aluminum transmission backplate.

    Last edited by TouchStone; 03-08-2015 at 12:22 AM.
    818S Chassis #288 2.5L 323hp
    Ordered: 9/19/14 Received Kit: 11/2/14 First Start: 5/31/15 First Drive: 6/7/15 Registered: 3/10/2016 Completed: 2/10/2017
    Status: Complete Build Thread Sold 9/22/2017
    joshuajach.com

  25. #25
    Senior Member TouchStone's Avatar
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    Last week I routed a dragon design into the back tranny plate. Finally got to put my CNC machine to good use. Here is where I got it from https://www.buildyourcnc.com/blueChi...achineKit.aspx.





    After cleaning and light buffing heres the result. I'm planning on painting the groves black to make really stand out.
    818S Chassis #288 2.5L 323hp
    Ordered: 9/19/14 Received Kit: 11/2/14 First Start: 5/31/15 First Drive: 6/7/15 Registered: 3/10/2016 Completed: 2/10/2017
    Status: Complete Build Thread Sold 9/22/2017
    joshuajach.com

  26. #26
    Senior Member TouchStone's Avatar
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    Picked up engine from the shop!

    Today I dissembled, cleaned and rebuilt the throttle body. I broke a little plastic washer in the process, the washer was used as a bearing/spacer for the throttle cable mechanism. I dont think this part is necessary and it works just fine without it. Since I wont be using them I cut off the coolant connection points to clean up the final look.

    Before:


    Dissembled:


    I also plugged the open TGV holes by tapping and bolting a 10x1.25m and using liquid gasket to create a seal.





    Also picked up my engine today from the shop. Its now 2.5L with 2.0 STi heads. Installed a new gates timing kit, new water and oil pumps.

    Set some shiny parts on top and took these photos


    818S Chassis #288 2.5L 323hp
    Ordered: 9/19/14 Received Kit: 11/2/14 First Start: 5/31/15 First Drive: 6/7/15 Registered: 3/10/2016 Completed: 2/10/2017
    Status: Complete Build Thread Sold 9/22/2017
    joshuajach.com

  27. #27
    Harley818's Avatar
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    Nice job so far.
    I like your CNC, and great job on the trans plate.
    Harley
    Bought 2002 Donor Jan 2014
    First Start Jan 18, 2015
    First Drive Feb 14, 2015

  28. #28
    Mechie3's Avatar
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    I like the trans plate.
    Zero Decibel Motorsports
    Check out my new website!
    www.zerodecibelmotorsports.com
    www.facebook.com/zero.decibel.motorsports

  29. #29
    Senior Member TouchStone's Avatar
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    Reassembled most of the transmission today. Very happy that I could find all the little bits and pieces. When dissasembling I highly recommend labeling and bagging everything that gets removed. It makes the process of reassembling "uneventfull", which is a good thing.





    818S Chassis #288 2.5L 323hp
    Ordered: 9/19/14 Received Kit: 11/2/14 First Start: 5/31/15 First Drive: 6/7/15 Registered: 3/10/2016 Completed: 2/10/2017
    Status: Complete Build Thread Sold 9/22/2017
    joshuajach.com

  30. #30
    Senior Member RM1SepEx's Avatar
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    Nice work! Since you flipped the shifter arm like I did you can move the entire rear shift cable bracket forward about 1.5 inches. Just add a 3rd hole at the correct spacing and you have tons of clearance to the rear of the body
    Dan

    818S #17 Picked up 8/1/13 First start 11/1/13 Go Kart 3/28/14

  31. #31
    Senior Member TouchStone's Avatar
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    Well crap! Despite my best efforts I left out a little piece of the transmission that will require a 2nd tear down. I thought this part was important when I first disasembled it so I placed it into its own bag... then miss-placed the bag . This piece is designed to push the shift fork locking tumbler so that you cant engage the 5th or Reverse while in 1st or 2nd gear and vice versa. While this cant happen simply with input from the driver If the checking ball (8) becomes loose then its quite possible that 2 gears may engage simultaneously.

    Capture.PNG
    818S Chassis #288 2.5L 323hp
    Ordered: 9/19/14 Received Kit: 11/2/14 First Start: 5/31/15 First Drive: 6/7/15 Registered: 3/10/2016 Completed: 2/10/2017
    Status: Complete Build Thread Sold 9/22/2017
    joshuajach.com

  32. #32
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TouchStone View Post
    Well crap! Despite my best efforts I left out a little piece of the transmission that will require a 2nd tear down. I thought this part was important when I first disasembled it so I placed it into its own bag... then miss-placed the bag . This piece is designed to push the shift fork locking tumbler so that you cant engage the 5th or Reverse while in 1st or 2nd gear and vice versa. While this cant happen simply with input from the driver If the checking ball (8) becomes loose then its quite possible that 2 gears may engage simultaneously.

    Capture.PNG
    Hi TouchStone, Sorry to hear about you second teardown.
    I love doing the first time and hate it the second time.

    I would like to improve my shifter feel. Do you think the make stiffer springs for the detent balls? They are #7 on your picture.
    Bob
    818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
    My Son Michael's Turbo ICE Build X22 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rts-818S-Build
    My Electric Supercar Build X21 (on hold until winter) http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-Build-Thread

  33. #33
    Senior Member TouchStone's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob_n_Cincy View Post
    I would like to improve my shifter feel. Do you think the make stiffer springs for the detent balls? They are #7 on your picture.
    Bob
    Subaru wont offer stiffer springs for the checking spring, however when I tear this down again I'll take some measurements and spec out a stiffer spring.
    818S Chassis #288 2.5L 323hp
    Ordered: 9/19/14 Received Kit: 11/2/14 First Start: 5/31/15 First Drive: 6/7/15 Registered: 3/10/2016 Completed: 2/10/2017
    Status: Complete Build Thread Sold 9/22/2017
    joshuajach.com

  34. #34
    Senior Member TouchStone's Avatar
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    I got my missing part installed and transmission reassembled. Tomorrow I'll be working on the intake manifold.
    818S Chassis #288 2.5L 323hp
    Ordered: 9/19/14 Received Kit: 11/2/14 First Start: 5/31/15 First Drive: 6/7/15 Registered: 3/10/2016 Completed: 2/10/2017
    Status: Complete Build Thread Sold 9/22/2017
    joshuajach.com

  35. #35
    Senior Member TouchStone's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob_n_Cincy View Post
    I would like to improve my shifter feel. Do you think they make stiffer springs for the detent balls? They are #7 on your picture.
    Bob
    Did some math for fun and found that you can get this spring http://www.mcmaster.com/#9434K161 to increase the checking spring force 75% from OEM. I'm not sure what this equates to in shifter "feel", but for $5 it would be worth a try. An easier thing to try; is to add a spacer (small washer) between the spring and nut about 1mm thick. Let me know if you try it and if it helps or not.

    Here's my messy calculations:
    818S Chassis #288 2.5L 323hp
    Ordered: 9/19/14 Received Kit: 11/2/14 First Start: 5/31/15 First Drive: 6/7/15 Registered: 3/10/2016 Completed: 2/10/2017
    Status: Complete Build Thread Sold 9/22/2017
    joshuajach.com

  36. #36
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TouchStone View Post
    Did some math for fun and found that you can get this spring http://www.mcmaster.com/#9434K161 to increase the checking spring force 75% from OEM. I'm not sure what this equates to in shifter "feel", but for $5 it would be worth a try. An easier thing to try; is to add a spacer (small washer) between the spring and nut about 1mm thick. Let me know if you try it and if it helps or not.

    Here's my messy calculations:
    Wow TouchStone,
    I asked a simple question and I get a precise answer with art. You get extra credit.
    I just added a pack of springs you suggested to my weekly Mcmaster order. I'll report back on how they feel.
    Thanks Again.
    Bob
    818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
    My Son Michael's Turbo ICE Build X22 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rts-818S-Build
    My Electric Supercar Build X21 (on hold until winter) http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-Build-Thread

  37. #37
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    Thanks for the McMaster Carr spring tip.
    Back when we raced Datsun 510's and 240Z's we used pop rivet washers to shim the dents. they worked great for the oil pressure relieve valve too.

  38. #38
    Senior Member TouchStone's Avatar
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    Here's the offending tranny part and the ominous bag I put it in. I still cant believe I left this out during the first build.


    I had to dissemble a majority of the tranny to gain access to the install location of this part.
    818S Chassis #288 2.5L 323hp
    Ordered: 9/19/14 Received Kit: 11/2/14 First Start: 5/31/15 First Drive: 6/7/15 Registered: 3/10/2016 Completed: 2/10/2017
    Status: Complete Build Thread Sold 9/22/2017
    joshuajach.com

  39. #39
    Senior Member TouchStone's Avatar
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    Sep 2014
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    Today I mostly finished assembly of the intake manifold and mounted it to the engine. Just a couple vent hoses left.

    I replaced the following parts from my donor:
    • Coolant cross-over pipe (pitted mating surface)
    • Turbo air intake (Godspeed)
    • Wiring harness (replaced with used harness from an '05)
    • Engine block vent hoses (Mishimoto)
    • Turbo air-bypass and outlet hoses
    • Removed TGV's




    Since I ditched the donor hoses I lost the special preformed evap hoses that connect the intake manifold to the purge solenoid valve. This made it difficult for two reasons; I did not feel like buying a new hose from Subaru, and I did not want to use long lengths of PCV hose to maintain the minimum bend radius. To fix this I made a bracket that reorients the solenoid valve (Bracket mounts to the turbo intake mount point. This only requires two 5in hoses (shorter than the pre-bent OEM hoses). Its new location would probably interfere with the power steering pump but I've already de-powered the steering rack. Also removed the purge valve as suggested by others.

    I want to send in my fuel injectors to be ultasonic cleaned, and flow tested. Can anyone recommend a place?



    818S Chassis #288 2.5L 323hp
    Ordered: 9/19/14 Received Kit: 11/2/14 First Start: 5/31/15 First Drive: 6/7/15 Registered: 3/10/2016 Completed: 2/10/2017
    Status: Complete Build Thread Sold 9/22/2017
    joshuajach.com

  40. #40
    Senior Member TouchStone's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Dallas, TX
    Posts
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    1
    Here's a garage snapshot. See if you can spot the rubber ducky. Enjoy!



    818S Chassis #288 2.5L 323hp
    Ordered: 9/19/14 Received Kit: 11/2/14 First Start: 5/31/15 First Drive: 6/7/15 Registered: 3/10/2016 Completed: 2/10/2017
    Status: Complete Build Thread Sold 9/22/2017
    joshuajach.com

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