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Thread: Rear Body Panels

  1. #1
    Senior Member FFRSpec72's Avatar
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    Rear Body Panels

    So after getting the side panels mounted and rear taillight/bumper mounted, I was play around with the decking (2 pieces). The forward most deck is a pain to put on and get off as it curves around the roll cage bars, this will not work well at the track, the rear most part of the deck, there is no way that I can use hinges there, so that will have to be totally removable.

    I was thinking that the forward most piece will have to be cut to allow easy removal, that is the curved piece around the roll cage bar will have to be mounted to fender and somewhere around the roll cage down tube is to cut the deck and add some lip to it.

    I will most likely slot the rear most deck for the wing as I don't want to have to keep taking wing off (too expensive to have something happen to it) so I can pull the rear mist deck off. This will also be pined/latched. This brings up another point, as I'm not sure I trust mounting the pins/latches to just the fiberglass.

    Thoughts ?

    WP_20150224_20_28_37_Pro.jpg

    Also my intercooler is right up against the forward most deck, so no need for a support brace here

    WP_20150224_20_28_22_Pro.jpg
    Tony Nadalin
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    2015 SCCA Oregon Region VP3 Champion
    2012 ICSCC ITE Class Champion
    FFR MkII Challenge Car, Spec Racer, Street Legal, SCCA, ICSCC and NASA Racing
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  2. #2
    Mechie3's Avatar
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    I dont recall the name, but the guy with the Gulf livery did exactly what you described as far as cutting the engine cover.
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  3. #3
    Senior Member FFRSpec72's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mechie3 View Post
    I dont recall the name, but the guy with the Gulf livery did exactly what you described as far as cutting the engine cover.
    Found it, thanks for the reminder as this is almost exactly what we wanted to do (minus the hinges), also as I read the thread it seems he did this because the lid was not trimmed properly around the roll cage down tube from FFR to start with and that he did not know this and went this route so maybe I need to just look at trimming that piece but that still leaves the gap where the roll cage sits so maybe cutting is the best thing to do and then seal up where FFR cut for the roll cage support
    Last edited by FFRSpec72; 02-25-2015 at 02:31 PM.
    Tony Nadalin
    2018 SOVREN Big Bore Champion
    2015 SCCA Oregon Region VP3 Champion
    2012 ICSCC ITE Class Champion
    FFR MkII Challenge Car, Spec Racer, Street Legal, SCCA, ICSCC and NASA Racing
    818R Build in progress

  4. #4
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    Tony, I not even close to mounting the body but look forward to your solution. I have laid the body out and clamped it together on the shop floor and thought that and a few other things might be an issue..
    Something to ponder at the office.

  5. #5
    Tazio Nuvolari wannabe Scargo's Avatar
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    nuisance's solution to the rear is like what I'm up to. I am puzzled that he filled-in the depression. I intend to cut out the back of that area so it is functional and allows air in.
    Here is my current idea of an approach to fixing panels together (until I decide that they are ready to be permanently glassed together). I will use this on the hood, front and fenders and I intend to bolt the orphan piece (being discussed) to the door in the front.
    small bracket.jpg
    I have ordered this Loctite epoxy based on the specs, viscosity and temperature rating. I will report back when I have results. Bonding stud pates are on their way to me.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  6. #6
    Senior Member FFRSpec72's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scargo View Post
    I am puzzled that he filled-in the depression.
    So I assume you are talking about the slot for the rear cage support tube ? I was going to fill that in also. I assume you are making the fender and hood one piece ? What about the nose ?
    Tony Nadalin
    2018 SOVREN Big Bore Champion
    2015 SCCA Oregon Region VP3 Champion
    2012 ICSCC ITE Class Champion
    FFR MkII Challenge Car, Spec Racer, Street Legal, SCCA, ICSCC and NASA Racing
    818R Build in progress

  7. #7
    Tazio Nuvolari wannabe Scargo's Avatar
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    No... Here is a shot of an S where you see the area cutout as I intend to do.

    I will integrate the nose, hood and fenders. I will then hinge it forward.

  8. #8
    Member nuisance's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FFRSpec72 View Post
    So after getting the side panels mounted and rear taillight/bumper mounted, I was play around with the decking (2 pieces). The forward most deck is a pain to put on and get off as it curves around the roll cage bars, this will not work well at the track, the rear most part of the deck, there is no way that I can use hinges there, so that will have to be totally removable.

    I was thinking that the forward most piece will have to be cut to allow easy removal, that is the curved piece around the roll cage bar will have to be mounted to fender and somewhere around the roll cage down tube is to cut the deck and add some lip to it.

    I will most likely slot the rear most deck for the wing as I don't want to have to keep taking wing off (too expensive to have something happen to it) so I can pull the rear mist deck off. This will also be pined/latched. This brings up another point, as I'm not sure I trust mounting the pins/latches to just the fiberglass.

    Thoughts ?

    WP_20150224_20_28_37_Pro.jpg

    Also my intercooler is right up against the forward most deck, so no need for a support brace here

    WP_20150224_20_28_22_Pro.jpg
    I came to the conclusion that the "hook" at the forward end of the engine cover is not supposed to be there. If you look at Brando's thread you can see his came with it trimmed off.

    My version has been working well, and it is easy to access the engine compartment to check fluids etc.

    Good luck!
    John Huft -- #154 R

  9. #9
    Tazio Nuvolari wannabe Scargo's Avatar
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    Here's mine. No big deal to lop it of and attach it to the sail. I have other photos of additional bodywork on my build thread.
    FullSizeRender (26).jpg

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