bbjones121 - Denver build

[Canadian818]

Great progress! I bet it's motivating knowing everything is now a final assembly.

[bbjones121]

Coming along really well! Nice to see a fully carpeted interior.

Thanks! Yeah, i had to order some more from FFR to cover everything.

[bbjones121]

Great progress! I bet it's motivating knowing everything is now a final assembly.

Thanks! Yes definitely, the mid assembly was very very de-motivating. I probably could have had everything done last year if I didn't know I had to take it all apart again during the first build process.

[bbjones121]

I decided to build a different way for the parking brake cables to be held instead of the aluminum piece that FFR has you attach the cable retainer to. I just ran a metal strip from the chassis bar behind the gas tank. It holds the gas tank down also.




Here is the original Subaru parking brake.




Here is the smaller Lokar EHB-7000F Floor Mount Emergency Hand Brake. I modified it to attach back further so I could have two cup holders. The factory OEM parking brake button/electrical contact could be removed from the original parking brake and attached to this model fairly easy. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1









Then I sandblasted and powder coated the handle gunmetal and left the button on the end chrome.

[bbjones121]

I probably got a little carried away with gauges, but whatever...
I settled on:

• Oil Pressure
• Oil Temperature
• Coolant Temperature
• Turbo Boost
• Air temp in and out of intercooler
• Wideband O2

To get all these cables back to the dash I bought a multi-conductor cable so that I wouldn't have to run every single sensor individually. I also got an 8 pin waterproof connector so that I could disconnect easily.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1








To locate the gauges, I sat in the car and tried to angle them to match the curvature of the steering wheel so that I could see these four main ones while driving. The other two gauges will go down on the center console bridge.

[bbjones121]

Almost forgot one of my experimental systems. I am using the Vintage Air 66005-VUZ-A Gen II Mini System for my A/C and heating. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1. The problem with this system, as you may have read elsewhere, is that it comes with a valve that is either open or closed. The Subaru coolant system must continue to run a loop to the coil that is inside the car. So typically others have replaced the 2 way valve with a 3 way or run tubing configurations to make this work.

I have a theory that the loop tubing that FFR has you put in the top engine coolant manifold to the smaller suction on the water pump causes a drop in coolant efficiency. If you own a subaru, you know that hot air is typically always coming out the side vents. This is because the coil inside the car is continuously dispersing heat. In the FFR, there is nothing to do this.

To fix this issue, in my car, the smallest diameter tubing for coolant is right off the engine. I used the supplied FFR corrugated stainless tubes right off the engine down to hose fittings, then into aluminum 90 degree bends that I welded to the side tubes factory five provides. From there to the radiator, the inside diameter is larger. So I welded barb fittings into these 90 degree bends back at the engine. Rather than installing FFR's U bend tubing for the coolant, I route the manifold connection down to the new barb fitting in the 90 degree bend going to the front radiator on the right side of the car. The suction of the water pump is connected to a barb fitting in the return 90 degree on the left side of the car. This means that even before the thermostat opens, there is a continuous slow flow of coolant up to the radiator. It may take my car longer to warm up now, but I am hopeful that my engine is getting as much cooling as possible.

For the vintage air HVAC system, I am relying solely on the small pressure differential across the radiator to pull a little coolant through the coil. I welded another barb fitting in the right side coolant line just below the HVAC system and installed another barb fitting in the left side coolant line running back to the engine. The Vintage Air valve is installed in this circuit to close and open as needed. If I can't get enough flow, then I will buy a little pump and replace the valve with a pump that the Vintage air system will turn off and on as needed.

Please don't judge me on these welds. I was in a hurry and did not properly clean the aluminum the first time.

[bbjones121]

After thinking that my stock headers where cracked, I purchased some STI P&Pned headers. In this picture you can see my original 2006 WRX headers below with the UpPipe attached still and the 04 STI headers above them. The geometry is slightly different. This is to accommodate different size oil pans. Thankfully, the STI headers clear my WRX oil pan. I do not believe that the WRX headers clear the STI oil pan.




I decided to get rid of the stock heat shields and wrap the headers. So I ground off all the tabs.

[bbjones121]

Since the registration process takes so long for a kit, I decided to store my hardtop until next fall. Plus I wan't to get it painted before I install windows on it and I need a windshield for the inspection. I purchased a jeep roof pulley system. It was expensive, but saved me the time of finding all the individual pieces. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I should be able to back my car in and lower on top.

I also had to modify my garage door support to allow the hardtop to sit perfectly between my lights. Eventually I hope to get a screw type garage door opener and a high lift track system.

[bbjones121]

I had a hard time trying to figure out where exactly these should go. I wish that factory five would have provided some guidance on where they weld them currently. I clamped them on and test fit everything and this seemed to be a good location.

[bbjones121]

I painted a black line around my lenses. Don't mess these up, they cost 90 a piece to replace. I highly recommend that you test fit these to the body first. They are not the exact shape. Sand the edge to fit evenly and use a heat gun to get them in the correct shape. Use something to press down on them to shape them properly before painting the line on the lenses. I used these suction cup clamps and they seemed to work very well: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I ran a tape line all the way around the outside of the lens. This marked my line, then I ran another on the inside and removed the outside tape to leave me a consistent width line around the perimeter.









I wanted to make my headlights serviceable, so I recessed 8 screws around the outside of the lens. These were kept loose. I purchased high strength double sided tape to install the lens so that it can be removed later. I will add non permanent caulk all around the lenses soon to water-seal them.



I purchased Eagle Eye LEDs on amazon. I was extremely impressed by the quality. I had to pick through the bunch of them to find the best. If you tug on the cord, it will move the little LED panel inside the lenses. I also purchased these little connectors so that I could remove the LEDS easily later if needed. The connectors are small enough that they fit through the LED drilled holes.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[bbjones121]

Even though Factory Five spent a lot of time creating these headlights, the rotation of the projector cutoff line is way off!!! I do not believe that you can adjust the cutoff angle later. Before gluing the projector into the housing, get a dremel cutout bit and make the three projector mounting holes oblong. I bolted my housings on the car and held the projectors in the housing while on. I could then rotate the housing to adjust the angle of the light cutoff. I used hot glue and coated each of the three projector mounting clips and held it in place while the hot glue dried. I then took the entire assembly with the projectors temporarily held in place off the car. I used plastic epoxy and coated the 3 clips. I had to remove a little hot glue from one clip at a time to get good epoxy contact with the clips.

[bbjones121]

I also used windshield super fast dry urethane to fill the gaps between the rear projector mount and the housing. It can fill large voids, you just build it up pass by pass.

[bbjones121]

Geico offers insurance for kit cars! You will probably need to talk with several different people, some will send you to home owners insurance group, others will tell you that Geico does not offer insurance for these cars. To save you the trouble I went through, ask to get transferred to the classic cars group. They know exactly what this car is. The coverage is an agreed value with mileage restriction. I got 25k with 6k miles a year estimate for less than 400 a year. It sounds like they third party it out to American Classic insurance. I don't really care as long as I have one servicing company for all our vehicles.

The unfortunate part is that they will do not have temporary coverage for a non-VIN vehicle. If they did, I could have gone to the DMV and gotten two day temp tags to drive the kit car to the state patrol. Instead, I had to rent a U-Haul car trailer. FYI the 818 is a PITA to get on one of these!!! I had to cut up several 2x4s and keep placing them in various places under the tires to get the car loaded. Anyways, I finally got it and made it to the State Patrol just in time.










One look around the car and I now have sign-off by the state patrol to apply for a VIN!!!! Now I just have to wait another 6 wks for the VIN plate to get created and mailed....

[bbjones121]

I now have a little time to get the body ready for paint. My color scheme will be Subaru World Rally Blue body, Gloss black (including carbon fiber bits) accents, Matte Gunmetal metal components, and a touch of bare aluminum here and there.

[AZPete]

Your update has included several creative mods that will help me and others. Though I've completed my shifter, E-brake, and HVAC coolant lines, I admire your work. I also found that it's necessary to paint the headlight lenses - carefully - and just ordered a set of the "Suck & Clamp" clamps for other projects. Thanks for spending my money! My only problem with your post is the empty parking lot at the DMV. I'm jealous because my DMV had a line of 12 people at 7 AM all waiting for inspections by one slow-moving, grouchy agent. Very nice work and great descriptions.

[bbjones121]

Your update has included several creative mods that will help me and others. Though I've completed my shifter, E-brake, and HVAC coolant lines, I admire your work. I also found that it's necessary to paint the headlight lenses - carefully - and just ordered a set of the "Suck & Clamp" clamps for other projects. Thanks for spending my money! My only problem with your post is the empty parking lot at the DMV. I'm jealous because my DMV had a line of 12 people at 7 AM all waiting for inspections by one slow-moving, grouchy agent. Very nice work and great descriptions.

Thanks Pete! I wouldn't have known where to begin with some of my build and especially the HVAC if it wasn't for your extremely helpful thread and guide. I have gotten some great ideas from your build as well and will continue to since I am not complete yet. I was extremely thankful that there was no line at the inspection, I would have had to reschedule if there was since I was running late. I believe that the county office will be a different story when I go there next.

[turbomacncheese]

Oh man, what a great build thread!! Thanks for the detail!

[Frank818]

Really looks like a Ferrari (rear end, color, style and 4 tips)!

[STiPWRD]

Excellent attention to detail and great tips on the head lights!

[Mechie3]

Headlight screws were kept loose? Why did you do that? How did the bucket get held on then? I'll probably end up doing something like you. I don't like the permanence to several of FFR's solutions for things that will likely require servicing (like, an LED dying). What tape are you using?

Thanks.

[bbjones121]

Headlight screws were kept loose? Why did you do that? How did the bucket get held on then? I'll probably end up doing something like you. I don't like the permanence to several of FFR's solutions for things that will likely require servicing (like, an LED dying). What tape are you using?

Thanks.

You could probably epoxy or fiberglass the screws in place like some others have done, but it makes getting the nut off the back very difficult. The screws on the outside of the headlight buckets are not perpendicular to the body, so it prevents you from pulling the bucket straight back to remove. Without significant modifications to the back rim of headlight bucket to make a nut sit flush on a surface, I think it would be nearly impossible to pull the bucket straight off the body with 8 permanent studs.

3m VHB 1/2 wide mounting tape is what I used. It fits the mounting lip edge perfectly.

If I need to remove my lenses, I just run a razor blade along outside of lens to cut a thin bead of black silicone caulk, then just pull the double sided tape off. I can then still use a screw driver topside instead of trying to get at a tiny nut on the back side.

Just FYI. If you need to do minor touch up or replace LED lights, you can remove the projector easily from the back and get a small hand to reach in.

[Mitch Wright]

Nice build and the car looks great, just in time to enjoy it this spring.

[bbjones121]

Thanks everyone. I actually got a VIN rejection letter Thursday last week, the DMV forgot to include a copy of my $3.50 fee receipt and the form from the Colorado State Patrol was missing a comment in the notes section stating that there is no VIN found. Thankfully I didn't have to go back to the DMV, I just directly mailed it to the state office. I just hope it didn't put me in the back of the pile again.

[bbjones121]

I was upset at first about the deficiencies they rejected it for, but considering that nobody at the DMV knew what to do for a kit, I should feel lucky...

[Mechie3]

Ahh, loose meaning not epoxied in place. I thought you meant not tightened and couldn't figure out how that worked. Thanks. I think this is the route I'll take.

[Shawn818c]

Awesome build thus far!

Just one thing I noticed. Wrapping cast iron manifolds is not recommended as it makes them more prone to cracking.

[bbjones121]

Awesome build thus far!

Just one thing I noticed. Wrapping cast iron manifolds is not recommended as it makes them more prone to cracking.

Thanks. I am hoping it has heat cycled slot. The crossover pipe is stainless ceramic coated I think. I will keep the spare I have just in case.

[bbjones121]

Ahh, loose meaning not epoxied in place. I thought you meant not tightened and couldn't figure out how that worked. Thanks. I think this is the route I'll take.

Yeah sorry that is what I meant, not epoxied or fiberglass in place. Way easy to unscrew. You have to work a little on the countersinking. Some are angled.

[bbjones121]

Been awhile, my car is tuned and I am having a blast with it!
I have lots of photos to upload. Hopefully I can get them done this weekend.

I decided to go ahead and attach my rear louvers before i plastidip the car. It isn't going to be that hard to tape them off. I powder coated the louvers gunmetal to match my chassis and wheel color.

[bbjones121]

I decided to make the hood louvers removable since they come up next to the fiberglass recess. Without them being removed, it might be hard to get a good paint spray. I used small rivnuts flipped over and fiberglassed them into place. The washers are to allow some gap, so once the fiberglass hardened and I screw the louvers back on, I can make them tight.

[bbjones121]

These fit perfectly. You just rotate them until they cover the entire headlight and then mark the edges with a permanent marker. Then it is easier to line them up. See photos.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[bbjones121]

So the factory center console does not work with the upgraded shifter. Plus, i wanted to give if a better look with a cup holder or radio. So I cut the aluminum into three pieces. On mine, the aluminum piece was wider than the chassis steel. If I would have bolted it from the sides, it would have bent.

I cut the top off the supplied aluminum piece with a little of the rounded edge still attached, then I vinyl wrapped it with carbon fiber. It looks real, especially with the edge that bends down on the sides.

For the sides, I made them longer to go all the way up to the front firewall and riveted them in place and made the top removable so I could access everything inside easily.

[bbjones121]

I decided not to take the center console all the way to the dash. Gives it a more open feeling and helps my HVAC system disperse better. I may end up putting a lock box or something down there for insurance and registration.

I used various extra aluminum pieces for this...

[Jim Haar]

Really nice work and great build posts !
How do you like the SPARCO seats? I am considering
the same.

[bbjones121]

Really nice work and great build posts !
How do you like the SPARCO seats? I am considering
the same.

I like them alot. They can slide forward and recline. I made the rails so they tilt up going forward allowing the cushion to go over top of chassis bar if needed. The recline lever is tight, but fits. It is nice to be able to tilt them forward to access behind the seats.

[Jim Haar]

Sounds good , did you use the Sparco sliders ?

[bbjones121]

Sounds good , did you use the Sparco sliders ?

Yep

[bbjones121]

I purchased this 3d plastic mesh on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I routed out a groove in the back side so that it would protrude out past the back side of the cutout to give it more of a factory look. I sprayed black rubber paint inside once I was done.

[bbjones121]

[aquillen]

BB - re the grill material from Amazon - I was looking at that for the same purpose a while back but had not decided yet. Looks good but wondering now that you have seen it in person - do you recommend it? Thanks!