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Thread: Ron Francis wiring + Autometer Gauge setup : only works when lights are on

  1. #1
    Senior Member jakester888's Avatar
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    Ron Francis wiring + Autometer Gauge setup : only works when lights are on

    Just wondering if anyone else has experienced this problem. Using the Ron Francis harness coupled with the Autometer gauges. They all work fine but only when either the parking light or head lights are on. When the lights are off, so are the gauges. I mean the function of the gauges (not merely the back-lights) are not operable unless the main or parking lights are on.

    Anyone else experienced this?

  2. #2
    Senior Member DaleG's Avatar
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    Hi, jakester. Has to be a wiring issue; review the schematics very closely and trace all wires and I'm sure you'll solve the problem. I have speedhut gauges, so a whole different schematic.
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  3. #3
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Sounds like you're powering the gauges off the lighting circuit marked WHT-DASH LIGHTS in the RF harness instead of the gauge power circuit marked BRN-GAUGE-FEED. Each gauge, whether Speedhut or Autometer, has separate connections for lighting, power, and sending unit.
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  4. #4
    Senior Member jakester888's Avatar
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    Ed : sounds right. I guess I've got to take the body off to solve this. Just as well since I also need to adjust the loose steering.

    Thanks for the tip.

  5. #5
    Senior Member DaleG's Avatar
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    Jakester,

    Do you have to remove the body to remove the dash? If so, then before the body goes back on, revise the dash attachment method so you can remove it in the future with the body on...plenty of methods that are easy.

    Loose steering: remove the bolt from the center of the steering wheel. Then turn the steering wheel slightly from left to right; does the steering wheel have play without actually turning the shaft? If so, the solution is to place very thin steel wire (as shims) in the area between both the upper and lower "flats" on the column and the wheel hub. Wiggle the steering wheel up and down to enable the wires to slip in the void. I was able to get 4 or 5 wires in both the top and bottom. Snip the wires off flush with hub, replace the center bolt and you should be ready to go.
    SOLD 03/2013: MK II #5004: 5.0 EFI: 8.8, 3.55, E303, TW heads, GT40 intake, 24#, 70mm MAF

    Ordered MK IV Coyote Complete Kit.

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