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Thread: Jazzman’s #8745 "Flip Top" Build

  1. #41
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Regarding the center sections installation -- you've made good progress getting it that far. It's one of the more challenging steps, at least for me so far in the build. I've seen other posts where guys experienced the gap like you're showing at the front mounts. Not sure who might have changed something. Ford or Factory Five. Mine was wedged in tight, but some others not. Something has changed. But the proper sized washer to fill the space will solve it. As far as the front bolts, they are definitely 16mm. You did drill out the front center section mount holes to 5/8 inch, per the instructions, right? Sure hope so because it wouldn't be fun to drill them in place. With the 5/8 hole, the 16mm bolt will go through, and that's what's required for the front bushings. I too received 4 16mm locknuts and have 2 not used. Kind of ironic. We chase backorders and missing parts, but then have lots of stuff left over too.
    Last edited by edwardb; 12-02-2015 at 08:46 PM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

  2. #42
    Senior Member Paul Mischenko's Avatar
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    Hey Jazzman, I installed the rear diff the other week, my 11 year old was manning the jack while I was navigating it into place. I got it in relatively quick was surprised. At first I was sent the wrong sleeves so they sent me the correct ones. I think I have a similar small gap on the passenger side front mount. I have all the bolts torqued to correct specs but don't see how this is going to line up at all given how tight everything is. The passenger side wont get any closer. I included a photo

    IMG_3410.JPG

    I was missing the rear sway bar mounts, they just arrived today so will get them powder coated and continue with the IRS.
    I'll send Tony a note but maybe will try and put a washer as you suggest.

  3. #43
    Senior Member Paul Mischenko's Avatar
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    Just saw Edwards posting, I also received the 4 16mm locknuts. I also found it helped to drill out the powder coating from the frame mounts as well. I seem to be doing that on all the suspension stuff.

  4. #44

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    If you have problems getting the bolts to start - check out my post #58 in Edwardb's IRS thread.
    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...s-So-it-begins

    The key is to leave the sleeve out a bit so you have some room to get the bolt though everything. Once the bolt gets inside the sleeve and semi-lined up, I used a little hand bar clamp to squeeze the bolt into the sleeve as far as possible. Then just tap the sleeve/bolt the rest of the way through the sleeve until you can get the nut started. We fought it for quite some time before we figured it out but it went smooth after that.

    The hardest part was convincing ourselves to pull everything out and start over in order the pull out the sleeve because we were 'sooooo close' already.

  5. #45
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Paul_M View Post
    I also found it helped to drill out the powder coating from the frame mounts as well. I seem to be doing that on all the suspension stuff.
    Yes, the holes are all laser cut and very precise to the bolt sizes. The added powder coat can make them hard to assemble. I use a rat tail file. Couple of strokes around the inside of the holes and the powder coating comes right out.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

  6. #46
    Jazzman's Avatar
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    By taking all of your suggestion and adding a little grease to the bolts, I finally got the differential installed. It fought me at every turn, but we finally got it. I did take it out, chase all the holes with a drill bit, and then had to use some "creative persuasion" to get all the bolts in. I ended up using four washers to fill the excess space, one on each bolt. I guess that given the alternatives, I prefer a little extra space to fill rather than fighting it because it is just too tight.

    All the suspension bolts are in but none are torqued to specs. I have to get a stronger torque wrench to do them. Any suggestions of a good quality torque wrench? I am looking into a craftsman right now. I like their lifetime warranty. I am also finding an ever growing list of sockets and box wrenches that I need to add to my already overflowing collection.
    Jazzman

    MKIV #8745 "Flip Top" Roadster, Custom Tilt front, Coyote Engine, Tremec TKO600, Custom Interior. Best of Show winner, Huntington Beach Cruise In 2018.

    1967 Ford Mustang Coupe build thread updated 1/22/2021

    Roadster Frame Dolly Plan

  7. #47
    Senior Member Paul Mischenko's Avatar
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    Jazzman, I bought a CDI 2503 1/2 30-250 lbs wrench for this build and so far I'm really please with it. Got it from Amazon,
    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...rch_detailpage
    I also spoke Tony today. I pulled out a few of the bolts, filed down one spacer in the front. Now both my front mounts are tight and I used 2 washers on the rear mounts. Think I'm good now, debating with some slightly larger washers on the rear.
    IMG_3413.JPGIMG_3419.JPGIMG_3420.JPGIMG_3424.JPGIMG_3425.JPG

  8. #48
    Jazzman's Avatar
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    I've had a productive couple of days, but not much that is photo worthy. I'm sort of stalled now. I have gone as far as I can go on the front and rear suspensions. I'm still waiting on spindles, hubs, shocks, brakes, etc etc. I spent most of the last two days marking, measuring, and drilling holes to attach the aluminum panels. I lost count of how many holes, but I didn't break any drill bits. The drill press came in very handy. I have now separated the panels that need to be powder coated from those that will not be powder coated. I took the F panels and 8 various unfinished parts to the powder coater on Friday. I wanted to give him a chance to prove his skills before I gave him the entire box of panels. The first batch should be ready mid next week. I ordered a new Torque wrench and it should be here Tuesday. I guess I'll clean the garage tomorrow.
    Last edited by Jazzman; 12-07-2015 at 02:34 AM.
    Jazzman

    MKIV #8745 "Flip Top" Roadster, Custom Tilt front, Coyote Engine, Tremec TKO600, Custom Interior. Best of Show winner, Huntington Beach Cruise In 2018.

    1967 Ford Mustang Coupe build thread updated 1/22/2021

    Roadster Frame Dolly Plan

  9. #49
    Jazzman's Avatar
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    IFS Control Arms

    I am pleased to report that the ball joints went into the IFS upper control arms with little trouble. I buffed the threads of the ball joints to smooth out any imperfections, applied blue locktite, and threaded them in. I was surprised to not have much problem with this step. I know others have fought the ball joints, found them to be too tight, but I did not have this experience. I think the buffing of the powder coat on the threads created just enough space to make them thread right in. Whatever the reason, they worked well. As you can see from the photo, the parts are in the right place, but nothing is tightened. The heavier duty torque wrench will be here Tuesday, and I can get to work next weekend tightening everything up to specs.


    Now on to a few questions. First these two pieces. The top one is the top inside DS footbox cover, and the lower looks like it is the same shape as the opening and is the size that should be the cover for the opening in the top part. however, the lower piece is bent the wrongway to fit as the cover. The bend should go the other direction but the same diagonal. Do I have my parts mixed up, or did the lower cover piece get bent the wrong way?


    The piece below is the tunnel for the clutch cable. I plan to use the Forte Hydrolic clutch. As such, do I still need this tunnel on the front wall of the DS footbox? If I don't need it, can I cover the hole before I have the panel Powder coated? I don't want to Powder coat this part if I am not going to use it.


    Edwardb did a beautiful job of painting or powdercoating this driveshaft adapter before he installed it. (I'm not sure which one, but would love to know!) Does this part need that type of protection? Will it be seen after it is installed? If powder coated, how do you keep the threads clean, or do you chase them after coating?


    I think I have all the parts sorted for powder coating. I have a stack for black PC and all the visible aluminum panels. I think I will drop them off to the powder coater tomorrow before I leave for a business trip. With a bit of luck, they will be done after I return.
    Last edited by Jazzman; 01-01-2016 at 08:09 PM.
    Jazzman

    MKIV #8745 "Flip Top" Roadster, Custom Tilt front, Coyote Engine, Tremec TKO600, Custom Interior. Best of Show winner, Huntington Beach Cruise In 2018.

    1967 Ford Mustang Coupe build thread updated 1/22/2021

    Roadster Frame Dolly Plan

  10. #50
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Looking good! The variation on those upper ball joints is a mystery. Glad yours went in OK. For your questions: Looks like Factory Five did a nice job with the modded DS Coyote footbox, but sent you the previous design top cover. I'm assuming they would send you the right one, but it would be super easy to make one or just adjust the piece you have. You won't use that clutch cable piece with a hydraulic clutch setup, and yes you can add the filler piece to the footbox front before powder coat. Thanks for the nice compliment for my driveshaft adapter, except I didn't do anything to it. Mine came with the black finish. Yours looks like it came with a zinc coating. I would use it as is. It's properly protected, is almost completely covered once installed, plus not exactly in an area where visible. Have you checked to make sure it fits OK? I've heard a couple of builders with the new IRS had trouble with this piece. I would check that it fits into the flange and bolts properly to the center section. Also check that the driveshaft U-joint fits to it properly.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

  11. #51
    Jazzman's Avatar
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    Due to a short business trip and waiting for parts from FFR, I have made very little progress this week. However, a few things have been accomplished.

    1. The new Craftsman Torque wrench arrived. I'm glad it is finally here, but I am not entirely impressed with it. First, it didn't come with the three little batteries that it needed to operate. The instructions said to find an old battery number that no one carries any more. After consulting with the iPhone and the Energizer website, I found the equivalent replacement size, which apparently is still not very common. I had to go to three stores to get them. I finally found them at Home Depot as I was checking out!. After installing them, I discovered that the head is more loose than I would expect for such an expensive tool. It works, but I am concerned about it's longevity. I then discovered that unlike the lifetime Craftsman warranty that I have come to expect, this little gem only has a 90 day warranty! Wow. The last bastion of quality products that a company will stand behind has fallen. Well, lets see how it lasts.

    2. I have gone back and torqued up to spec all the IRS bolts, and the IFS bolts, and have greased every moving piece until grease came out of the indicator holes in the bushings. I wasn't sure about how tight to make the IFS upper control arms. I found discussions about "endplay" and it warned not to tighten them too tight. I discovered what too tight was when I tried to grease the bushings. I backed them off a bit, and the grease went through easily. There is not slop, they move freely, but not loosely. Without the spindles or the lower control arms connected, the upper control arms will stay at any angle you happen to leave them at, but with very little pressure will move easily. It seems reasonable to me.

    3. All the aluminum panels have been sent out for powder coating. The two F panels are back and installed, and look great if I do say so myself. I think I am going to be very pleased with my choice. You will have to wait for pictures on that until I get more installed.

    I had a nice call with several great people at FFR about back ordered parts. The good news is that they seem to be staying on top of it. The bad news is it is still going to be 2-4 weeks for several of the major suspension items, and longer than that for the Willwood brakes. Willwood must have really underestimated the popularity of their new setup because they are really behind. Oh well, I will have to find other things to keep me busy.

    I opened the box with the front sway bar. It has a bunch of parts included, but only directions to install it on a Mazda Miata. I looked in the manual to find instructions. Didn't see anything. Looked in the various pages of additional instruction for the options I selected, still nothing. Searched the forum, and finally found MadDog's thread with the instructions. It goes all the way back to 2012, and the parts aren't exactly the same, but I hope I can figure it out from the pictures that are there. About half of them are missing. If someone has current instructions for installation, I would appreciate your linking them here or PM'ing me. I finally looked through Edwardb's 20th Anniversary thread and found his photos and comments about the sway bars. (Should have looked there in the first place!!) I hope that will provide enough info for me. Thanks Paul! I will work on that tomorrow.

    Someone had posted a modification to the rear quickjack/body mount bolt system to make it easier to remove the body without having to remove the fuel tank. I can't find it but want to do it before I install the fuel tank. Can someone direct me?

    Well, back to finding "make work" while I wait for parts, panels, etc. It is still fun!
    Jazzman

    MKIV #8745 "Flip Top" Roadster, Custom Tilt front, Coyote Engine, Tremec TKO600, Custom Interior. Best of Show winner, Huntington Beach Cruise In 2018.

    1967 Ford Mustang Coupe build thread updated 1/22/2021

    Roadster Frame Dolly Plan

  12. #52
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    If I were you, I would invest in a tap and die set. I've worked as an airplane mechanic and I learned to always run a tap in nuts and female threaded parts and a die over bolts and other male threaded parts. Your life would be much simpler and you won't mess up expensive parts.

    As for as torque wrenches are concerned, you can either borrow them from a place that keeps them calibrated, buy the expensive ones (Snap-On, Cornwall, Matco) or buy cheap ones from Harbor Freight. Just about anything in between is money wasted.

  13. #53
    2bking's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jazzman View Post
    Someone had posted a modification to the rear quickjack/body mount bolt system to make it easier to remove the body without having to remove the fuel tank. I can't find it but want to do it before I install the fuel tank. Can someone direct me?
    I believe this mod is what you are wanting to do.
    King
    Roadster #8127, ordered 7/12/13, received 9/11/13
    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...4-Coyote-Build

  14. #54
    Jazzman's Avatar
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    Rear Quick Jack Mounting Modification

    I thought I remembered that it was one of the "Jeff's" that demonstrated this. Thanks, King, for helping my feeble memory. I thought I had searched for Rear Quick Jack Mounting, but hey, it was late, it was raining (rare in Arizona!!), I had one too many Coke's, who knows. Probably just Adult onset CRS!! Thanks.
    Last edited by Jazzman; 01-01-2016 at 08:12 PM.
    Jazzman

    MKIV #8745 "Flip Top" Roadster, Custom Tilt front, Coyote Engine, Tremec TKO600, Custom Interior. Best of Show winner, Huntington Beach Cruise In 2018.

    1967 Ford Mustang Coupe build thread updated 1/22/2021

    Roadster Frame Dolly Plan

  15. #55
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    Jazzman
    When you get ready to install the rear brakes you might want to download this installation guide from Wilwood.
    http://wilwood.com/BrakeKits/BrakeKi...no=140-15138-R
    I pretty much have the same car but did not spring for the Coyote. Be sitting down when you start shopping for tires. If you find any under $250 please let me know.
    Thanks

  16. #56
    Jazzman's Avatar
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    Swaybar Installation, Part 1

    I am working on the Front and rear swaybars. I have thoroughly reviewed all of the photos that Edwardb was so kind to put on his thread. I think I can see what needs to be done. So I lay out all the various fittings that were packaged with the bars. I tried to lay them out in a front and rear sort of way so I could see how each set might go together.


    The problem is these four parts:

    Based upon Edwardb's photos, it looks like I have four of the "female" side of these ends and no "male" ends that are supposed to attach to them. So, Edwardb, am I missing two parts?
    Last edited by Jazzman; 01-01-2016 at 08:08 PM.
    Jazzman

    MKIV #8745 "Flip Top" Roadster, Custom Tilt front, Coyote Engine, Tremec TKO600, Custom Interior. Best of Show winner, Huntington Beach Cruise In 2018.

    1967 Ford Mustang Coupe build thread updated 1/22/2021

    Roadster Frame Dolly Plan

  17. #57
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jazzman View Post
    Based upon Edwardb's photos, it looks like I have four of the "female" side of these ends and no "male" ends that are supposed to attach to them. So, Edwardb, am I missing two parts?
    You should have two male and two female rod ends for each sway bar. They get cut down and then put together. I just emailed the instructions to you.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

  18. #58
    Jazzman's Avatar
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    Pedals, Steering, & Sheet Metal

    Merry Christmas to all! I have been a bit limited on shop time due to the "Joys of the Season", but I have steadily gotten a bit of work done.

    Thank you to all that have responded to my poll of how to deal with the clutch pedal/frame rail interference problem. After reading the responses, I decided to go to the "notch the pedal" camp. Since I don't weld, and the strength given up is still well in excess of what I think I am capable of applying, I decided simple was best. I would echo others' comments that I do think that this problem is widespread enough that it warrants immediate action on the part of the FFR design and assembly teams. I hope they make a correction soon to simplify future builder situations.


    I have installed (loosely) the steering shaft. I went ahead and took Edwardb's recommendation to add two allen headed screws to the sides of the steering shaft to eliminate unwanted play. After installing all the parts, I was somewhat surprised to find that the steering shaft is not installed parallel to centerline of the frame, and seems to exit the dashboard at a small but noticeable angle. It seems to work fine, but seems odd. I wonder if it will show once I install the steering wheel. I don't really know what to do about it, so I will live with it.


    I have become quite skilled at installing and removing the rear toe arms of the IRS. I wished I had known the first time I installed them that I would need to install the attachment plates to hold the rear sway bar using the same bolts. I further wish I had realized that I would have to use the slightly longer bolts that came with the sway bar kit to replace the stock bolts. If you don't use the longer bolts, the nuts will go on, but the nylock bushing will not fully engage the threads and potentially come loose or fall out. (Ask me how I know!!) So I have installed the toe arms three times. The last time was the fastest. Practice makes improvement.

    Still missing large chunks of the suspension system, (brakes, shocks, hubs, spindles) but I received FedEx notification that I have three big packages in the mail. One is 45lbs, another is 22lbs. I am holding out hope that these will be some of the missing suspension parts. Time will tell. I have kept myself busy working on sheet goods. Almost all the visible panels have been powder coated. I have already discovered at least two that I missed. More on that in the next post.
    Last edited by Jazzman; 01-01-2016 at 07:52 PM.
    Jazzman

    MKIV #8745 "Flip Top" Roadster, Custom Tilt front, Coyote Engine, Tremec TKO600, Custom Interior. Best of Show winner, Huntington Beach Cruise In 2018.

    1967 Ford Mustang Coupe build thread updated 1/22/2021

    Roadster Frame Dolly Plan

  19. #59
    Jazzman's Avatar
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    ThermoTec Heat/Sound protection.

    I learned from DaleG and others that heat control in the cockpit is a very real issue, especially here in Arizona. Someone suggested that I make templates of each piece prior to installation so that I could easily cut sheets of heat control material to install at a later date. I started by connecting the panels which might be adjacent to each other, then made a cardboard template of each piece.



    After doing a few of these for the passenger side panels, I realized that there were some panels that would be very difficult if not impossible to access after they were installed. Therefore, I decided to install the insulation before I install the panels. This is really important on the drivers side.

    I bought two sheets of ThermoTec Suppressor Sheets, 36"x60". It will not be enough for the entire car, but it's a good start. I considered Dynamat (expensive and primarily focused on sound control, not heat) and on LizzardSkin (decided that it was too messy to apply. I wanted something I could cut and place.) Amazon, cheapest source and delivered in 36 hours. Nice.
    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ilpage_o00_s00

    I emailed ThermoTec to be sure the Suppressor Sheets could be installed inside the footbox. Their response is that the sheets will stand up to the heat inside the engine compartment and provide a bit more effective heat protection if the foil side is facing the engine, covering the sheet metal. However, they understand that it does not look as nice and clean as many would like, so it is designed to also work with the foil side inside, away from the engine. The aluminum panels will get hotter this way, but the heat will still not be transmitted into the footbox as it would if there were no protection at all. I want a clean look, so mine is going inside under the carpet.

    It is a bit stiff when cold, so I laid out the sheet in front of the fireplace to heat is up a bit. It worked. It relaxed in about 15 minutes. I then laid out as many pieces as I could on the first sheet.


    The sheets have some weight to them, but they cut easily with scissors. After cutting them to the correct size, I then very carefully laid them on the sheet. The directions warn you that the adhesive is very strong. IT IS!! It is almost impossible to remove after just touching the aluminum, and after pressing it on, forget about it. It is there to stay. I then trimmed up all the edges with a razor knife. The scissors and razor knife will need some clean up with lacquer thinner or mineral spirits (not sure which yet, still working!) It is a slow process but the result is very nice.

    to test the effectiveness of the heat protection, I laid a panel against the fireplace. (Yes, that is a gas fireplace with Glass on the front. I know those of you in colder climates are laughing at it, and yes, it is an embarrassment. It does put out some nice heat though. What can I say, it came with the house.) I got the glass up to 207 degrees, the aluminum side of the panel to 145 degrees, and the foil side of the heat barrier sheeting was at 79 degrees. (The tile and room are 69 degrees.) I would say that is a significant heat protection for just a bit over 1/16" thickness.
    Last edited by Jazzman; 01-01-2016 at 08:14 PM.
    Jazzman

    MKIV #8745 "Flip Top" Roadster, Custom Tilt front, Coyote Engine, Tremec TKO600, Custom Interior. Best of Show winner, Huntington Beach Cruise In 2018.

    1967 Ford Mustang Coupe build thread updated 1/22/2021

    Roadster Frame Dolly Plan

  20. Likes JL1744 liked this post
  21. #60
    Not a waxer Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    Interesting study with the insulated panel against the heat source. Thanks!

    BTW, the slight angle to the steering shaft is normal and by design to provide a little extra space between the steering wheel and door top. The curve of the cowl will render it invisible to the eye once the body is on. It also won't be noticed from the driver's seat, and in fact depending on the seats you use there is a good chance that it will also end up slightly skewed at a similar angle to fit the body &/or tunnel.

    Nice work, carry on!

    Jeff

  22. #61
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    Good morning Jazzman, You recent post made for a good laugh over coffee this morning. Here in Maine, any heat is a welcomed side effect on my 20th Anniversary Stealth Edition. I have even given some thought of piping some of the engine heat into my cockpit. Not sure which number I am of the Stealth Five kits. BTW we have an exact fireplace insert in our house to stave off cool summer mornings.

  23. #62
    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    Looking good!


    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


  24. #63
    Jazzman's Avatar
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    Yes, Rick, we certainly have significantly different perspectives on heat utilization and dissipation! "White Christmas" in Maine is a real thing. Here it just refers to a 1940's movie. Christmas day here was slightly breezy, but I spent all day in short sleeves and sandals. Quite different than the 32 degrees I see you have there. I'll bet it is beautiful there though. I looked at photos of Farmington online. Wow. From my perspective, that is picture postcard perfect!

    I'm going to put the louvers in the hood to let the heat out. I suspect you will not choose that option.
    Jazzman

    MKIV #8745 "Flip Top" Roadster, Custom Tilt front, Coyote Engine, Tremec TKO600, Custom Interior. Best of Show winner, Huntington Beach Cruise In 2018.

    1967 Ford Mustang Coupe build thread updated 1/22/2021

    Roadster Frame Dolly Plan

  25. #64
    Jazzman's Avatar
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    More Sheet Metal, Fuel Tank Installation

    week. I have both of the foot boxes installed, though I left both of the outside panels off so I still have easy access. I will install them later. I may look into the "rivnuts" that several have mentioned. I think keeping access to that area may be helpful in the future. I am so glad I went to the effort of insulating the panels before i installed them. There is no way I could have gotten the insulation sheets onto the inside of those foot boxes after they were fully installed without completely messing it up.



    I discovered four more aluminum panels that need to be powder coated. Oh well, that will delay things a week! Here is how the powder coating came out. I like it. I think it will go nicely with whichever final color choice I make.



    I decided that I am going to write down a list of all the things I wished I had known before I started the build. I plan to post that list at the end of the build process.

    I installed the fuel tank tonight. The directions were clear and simple, I followed them, it worked. No problems. I did not yet plumb the fuel lines or the fuel filter because I don't yet have the in-tank fuel pump. It is on order from Breeze along with the power steering rack. I am not sure how soon I will get them.


    I did discover a minor challenge: no bolts to attach the fuel tank straps. I couldn't find them in the main bag of parts for the fuel tank. I searched all the other bags of parts that I have, and couldn't find anything that looked similar. I went back to the parts manifest and found an interesting anomaly: there are no bolts listed to hang the fuel tank straps! Everything else for the Fuel tank was in Box #20, (in my case) and nowhere on that list is any bolts for that purpose. I don't know exactly how many gallons the tank holds, but I estimate that it is no more than 20. At six lbs per gallon of fuel, I estimate that the four bolts have to support no more than 200lbs. Since it is not a suspension type part that required a grade 8 bolt, I went to my supply of 3/8" bolts that I have accumulated and bolted it right up. Worked perfectly. I even found two square nuts that I used on the front mounting locations. By using the square nuts, I can unbolt the front of the tank without having to access the nut from the top.


    I did remember to install the connecting nuts before putting in the fuel tank. That seems like a really good idea. Thanks!


    I still have some work to do before I can install the sheet metal in the trunk area. The Russ Thompson trunk box and the FFMetal Battery box are on order. Before I close it all up, I want to be sure to deal with this yellow plastic plug on the differential. Do I remember correctly that this is some sort of a vent? Do I need to add something that is not in the basic plan to deal with this vent? Does the differential come pre-filled with fluid, or should I do that before I go much further and make it even more difficult to gain access?


    I will soon have to learn to bend fuel and brake lines. Any suggestions on what bender to buy that works well for this purpose? I think my 3/4" and 1" EMT benders are a bit overkill!
    Last edited by Jazzman; 01-01-2016 at 08:16 PM.
    Jazzman

    MKIV #8745 "Flip Top" Roadster, Custom Tilt front, Coyote Engine, Tremec TKO600, Custom Interior. Best of Show winner, Huntington Beach Cruise In 2018.

    1967 Ford Mustang Coupe build thread updated 1/22/2021

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  27. #65
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    Happy to report it is snowing her in Maine.
    Edwardb found the answer to your center section vent question. Go to your Ford dealer and order part number FR3Z-4A058-A, which is the Mustang vent hose assembly. I just ordered on and it is priced at a very reasonable $19.95. While the center sections come filled with oil, you can do several things. One, is to drain it for an inspection of the oil, and two, order the special 75-85 oil and friction modifier from Ford dealer, and replace the existing oil. The oil is not cheap at $29 a quart. I ordered a quart and will drain the existing oil to compare it to the new oil, then top off as required.
    After convincing myself I was going with gloss black powder coat for my panels, I am sure liking your hammertone color. Must decide this asap. You build is looking mighty fine.

    Rick

  28. #66
    Senior Member KDubU's Avatar
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    Hah! Not in Southern Maine it's not ...yet.

    The Termo-Tec sounds very interesting. I really like your method of making templates, wish I would have thought of that. Not looking forward to getting some to the insulation up in the DS footbox. I'm also considering Lizard Skin as I have read good things about it although it is messy as you say to apply. Looking really good on the build.
    Kyle

    Complete Kit pickup 09/05/2015, 351w, QF680, 3.55, 3-Link, 15" Halibrands with MT's, Painted Viking blue with Wimbledon white stripes on 03/15/2017. Sold in 08/2018 and totally regret it.

  29. #67
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jazzman View Post
    I did discover a minor challenge: no bolts to attach the fuel tank straps. I couldn't find them in the main bag of parts for the fuel tank. I searched all the other bags of parts that I have, and couldn't find anything that looked similar. I went back to the parts manifest and found an interesting anomaly: there are no bolts listed to hang the fuel tank straps! Everything else for the Fuel tank was in Box #20, (in my case) and nowhere on that list is any bolts for that purpose. I don't know exactly how many gallons the tank holds, but I estimate that it is no more than 20. At six lbs per gallon of fuel, I estimate that the four bolts have to support no more than 200lbs. Since it is not a suspension type part that required a grade 8 bolt, I went to my supply of 3/8" bolts that I have accumulated and bolted it right up. Worked perfectly. I even found two square nuts that I used on the front mounting locations. By using the square nuts, I can unbolt the front of the tank without having to access the nut from the top.

    I will soon have to learn to bend fuel and brake lines. Any suggestions on what bender to buy that works well for this purpose? I think my 3/4" and 1" EMT benders are a bit overkill!
    Great progress! I really like how you precut the insulation. The fuel tank hangar bolts in my kit were in box 2A Secondary Chassis Components. Right about in the middle of the page 10897 Fuel Strap Fasteners, and then bolts, nuts, and washers listed underneath. Everything else was in the in the fuel tank box as you found. FYI, the Mustang fuel tank used is roughly 16 gallons. Are you planning to use the fuel and brake lines included in the kit? Those bend pretty easily, but a tubing bender is a big help. There are lots of options and sources. I mainly use this one that I got from Eastwood when I bought their flaring tool. It works pretty well: http://www.eastwood.com/triple-head-...16-3-8-in.html
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

  30. #68
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    I am really enjoying your build log. I am just getting started on my kit and it is really helpful to read your posts and the responses from others. The detailed pictures are great.
    Thanks.

  31. #69
    Jazzman's Avatar
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    Thanks, Gene for the compliment. With my limited background compared to the "experts" I wasn't sure if my additions would add any value. I am trying to document both my successes and failures, but so far the build is going very smoothly. Thanks for following my progress. More to come soon!
    Jazzman

    MKIV #8745 "Flip Top" Roadster, Custom Tilt front, Coyote Engine, Tremec TKO600, Custom Interior. Best of Show winner, Huntington Beach Cruise In 2018.

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  32. #70
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    DS Footbox Front, FFMetal Battery Box in Trunk

    After confirming that all the footbox panels would fit correctly, I decided I was time to permanently attach the front panel of the drivers footbox. I had left this piece loose because I wanted to be sure that all the panels would fit after adding the Thermotec mats. Everything fit just fine because I had notched out the areas where the panels intersected. However, I did notice that after everything was put in place, the front panel was not quite tight to front of the steel frame that holds the pedal set. I didn't want this panel to rattle, nor did I want it to let unnecessary air flow into the footbox. The space was about 1/8", a bit too large to pull together just with rivets. I decided to add some nice looking cap screws to hold the panel tightly in place. After adding the appropriate silicone adhesive, I installed the panel like this. It is now very solidly attached and completely sealed.


    About two weeks ago I ordered the battery box from FFMetal.com. I decided I wanted to utilize the wasted space above the differential but below the trunk floor. I cannot say enough nice things about FFMetal and the product. Great service and a great product! The piece fits perfectly. It is very solidly built and easy to install.
    Please note that in the photo the front support bar is just sitting there to hold the box in place for the photo. That bar actually installs upside down from what is shown so that only the ends of the bolts will be at the top. I have not yet permanently installed the box because I am still waiting for Ford to get a differential breather hose in stock. (I don't know how many Ford dealers in the greater Phoenix area, but not one of them had this part!! Really? it is for the differential of a brand new Mustang! Oh well, I digress.) When installed, I think this is going to be a great utilization of wasted space and a great way to free up precious inches in both the engine bay and the trunk. Not cheap, but I think worth the money.
    Last edited by Jazzman; 01-01-2016 at 08:18 PM.
    Jazzman

    MKIV #8745 "Flip Top" Roadster, Custom Tilt front, Coyote Engine, Tremec TKO600, Custom Interior. Best of Show winner, Huntington Beach Cruise In 2018.

    1967 Ford Mustang Coupe build thread updated 1/22/2021

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  34. #71
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    Shocks and Front Hubs

    Things are slowly being checked off of the backorder list. This week it was the Koni double adjustable shocks and the front wheel hubs. I began installing the shocks, only to discover that the one bolt on each of the locations was too short. In the rear, it was the upper shock mount bolt. The manifest clearly states that the bolt is a 1/2x20 3.25" bolt. The problem is that the mounting location that it must go through is also 3.25".

    I will have to go buy a 3.75" or 4" bolt to have enough threads to bite on. After installing the lower shock mounting bolts, and placing the spacers with the larger one toward the rear of the car, the shocks sit perfectly vertical. I'm certainly no expert, but this seems to be logical to me.



    In the front it is the lower shock mounting bolt. The manifest says this one should be a 2.75" bolt, which was indeed provided. However, when installing the sway bars, the additional sway bar instruction sheets say that a 3.25" bolt should be used. Two more bolts to buy.


    The front hubs went on with very little drama. A few light taps and they slid right on. Then came the torque process. OH MY, I am going to need some help from a friend to get that one done. I decided to wait to finalize the 250lb torque spec until I have the steering rack installed so the unit will move less. I may have to wait til I get wheels on the ground to have enough limit to allow for that high torque spec.


    Now one "hmmm" issue. I am always double and triple checking all the bolts and torque specs, and I noticed this front most bolt on the DS upper control arm of the IRS.

    It is kind of hard to see in the photo, but the nut is very close to the 2"x3" square frame channel. It is so close, that the nut actually tightens down on the weld seam. When I began to torque the bolt to specs, the nut would not sit down flush against the steel as it should. It rode up on the weld seam. I didn't think that putting that much pressure on a weld seam was a very good idea, so I modified a washer to take up the space and sit flush next to the weld. This allowed all the pressure of the nut to be applied as it should on the steel frame without unnecessary stress on the weld. The unintended consequence was the the bolt now is just a bit too short. It doesn't look to me like the deformed nut is fully engaged on the threads. I am concerned that the nut might come loose. If you concur, I think I will go buy another, slightly longer, bolt to replace what is there. (What the heck, what is one more time to remove and install the IRS bolts!!)
    Last edited by Jazzman; 01-04-2016 at 11:20 PM.
    Jazzman

    MKIV #8745 "Flip Top" Roadster, Custom Tilt front, Coyote Engine, Tremec TKO600, Custom Interior. Best of Show winner, Huntington Beach Cruise In 2018.

    1967 Ford Mustang Coupe build thread updated 1/22/2021

    Roadster Frame Dolly Plan

  35. #72
    Not a waxer Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    Nice photos and documentation! You're rivaling edwardb! I certainly won't be able to play in your guys league If I ever do another build thread.

    Quote Originally Posted by Jazzman View Post
    ... this one should be a 2.75" bolt, which was indeed provided. However, when installing the sway bars, the additional sway bar instruction sheets say that a 3.25" bolt should be used. Two more bolts to buy.
    Nah, you don't have to go buy 3.25" bolts 'cause you already have them---the ones that are too short for the rear upper coilover mounts!

    Jeff

  36. #73
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jazzman View Post
    The front hubs went on with very little drama. A few light taps and they slid right on. Then came the torque process. OH MY, I am going to need some help from a friend to get that one done. I decided to wait to finalize the 250lb torque spec until I have the steering rack installed so the unit will move less. I may have to wait til I get wheels on the ground to have enough limit to allow for that high torque spec.

    Now one "hmmm" issue. I am always double and triple checking all the bolts and torque specs, and I noticed this front most bolt on the DS upper control arm of the IRS. It is kind of hard to see in the photo, but the nut is very close to the 2"x3" square frame channel. It is so close, that the nut actually tightens down on the weld seam. When I began to torque the bolt to specs, the nut would not sit down flush against the steel as it should. It rode up on the weld seam. I didn't think that putting that much pressure on a weld seam was a very good idea, so I modified a washer to take up the space and sit flush next to the weld. This allowed all the pressure of the nut to be applied as it should on the steel frame without unnecessary stress on the weld. The unintended consequence was the the bolt now is just a bit too short. It doesn't look to me like the deformed nut is fully engaged on the threads. I am concerned that the nut might come loose. If you concur, I think I will go buy another, slightly longer, bolt to replace what is there. (What the heck, what is one more time to remove and install the IRS bolts!!)
    For the front spindle bolts, I agree it would be easier with the steering rack and tie rods connected. With that, plus I like to put a length of 2x4 under the LCA to the ground, then I can lean on the wrench with all my weight, and the torque wrench finally clicks. 250 ft/lbs is definitely my personal limit though.

    For the DS upper control arm bolt you pictured, interesting, I had the same interference. Not on the PS side though. Anyway, rather than use spacers, a longer bolt, etc. I'd recommend just grinding the weld so it sits flat with the supplied parts. The flange on the bolt is almost exactly the same diameter as a Dremel cut-off wheel, so I carefully ground a circular relief in the weld, and it sits right down. Tried to get a quick pic. I think you can see what I mean.



    For the coilover bolts, I had the same exact issues you described. The rear upper was too short, the front lower was too short to also capture the sway bar rod ends. Fortunately, those are standard Ace hardware grade 5 bolts. Quick fix.

    Looking good! Nice getting all the parts, isn't it? That FFMetals battery box looks great, and fits perfectly in that location. I'm 99% sure now I'm going with the front mount Breeze box, but that looks like an excellent choice as well.
    Last edited by edwardb; 01-04-2016 at 07:13 AM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

  37. #74
    Jazzman's Avatar
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    Thank you, Jeff, for the compliment, but It will be quite some time before I can add enough value to even enter the shadow of the great EdwardB! I am just trying to keep up. You all have helped me so much, I just want to give back. As for using the extra rear bolts on the lower front shocks: Why didn't I think of that!! You're a genius. Thanks for saving me $5. Remind me some day that I owe you a beer, or your other beverage of choice!

    Edwardb, thanks for the counsel on the rear UCA weld. I was not sure if grinding it down flush would compromise it too much. If you say it's safe, that's good enough for me.

    Yes, even at my weight, 250lbs of torque is going to be a stretch! The Breeze power steering rack just arrived about an hour ago, so I am itching to get out of the office and into the shop to work on it.
    Last edited by Jazzman; 01-04-2016 at 05:32 PM.
    Jazzman

    MKIV #8745 "Flip Top" Roadster, Custom Tilt front, Coyote Engine, Tremec TKO600, Custom Interior. Best of Show winner, Huntington Beach Cruise In 2018.

    1967 Ford Mustang Coupe build thread updated 1/22/2021

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  38. #75
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    The picture of your battery box installation would not leave my brain, so I just ordered one. Now I have that dropped trunk mod rattling around in my brain.

    I am still waiting for my front hubs and brakes. I will have to find someone a lot bigger than me to torque those hub nuts down.

  39. #76
    Jazzman's Avatar
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    Rick - I think you will be very pleased with the battery box. If you can wait a few weeks, I will give you some pictures of the install. I think it is shipping to me this week, but it will be several weeks before I can get to it. Extended family obligations are limiting my shop time for the next few weeks. Oh well, family first. I also have to get a buddy of mine to come over and do some welding on the trunk frame in order to remove parts of the existing frame and add in new structural members. I am still needing to research what other guys have done to remove and replace the cross members so they will not be inside the trunk area.
    Jazzman

    MKIV #8745 "Flip Top" Roadster, Custom Tilt front, Coyote Engine, Tremec TKO600, Custom Interior. Best of Show winner, Huntington Beach Cruise In 2018.

    1967 Ford Mustang Coupe build thread updated 1/22/2021

    Roadster Frame Dolly Plan

  40. #77
    Jazzman's Avatar
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    I was re-reading EdwardB's current built thread, and got to the section on installing the power steering reservoir on the PS F panel. I realized why his looks so nice, and my seems like it will be a challenge: His does not have the large oval opening for the mustang donor radiator hose. Since I am not using donor anything, I will fill the hole. (I wish I had realized that I should do that before it was powder coated!) I had the fill plate powder coated, and now am debating whether to place the plate on the outside or the inside. Suggestions?


    I got replacement 4" bolts for the upper shock mounts. I noticed after I got home that the patina of the two new bolts is slightly different. (it might be difficult to see in the photo.) I also notice that the markings on the end are different. They came out of the same bin, and sound the same when you strike them against another piece of steel. (Ok, I know the "sound" method may not be a generally accepted evaluation tool of this issue. What can I say: once a musician, always a musician!) Both are supposed to be grade 5. Are they different, or are they just manufactured by different companies?

    Jazzman

    MKIV #8745 "Flip Top" Roadster, Custom Tilt front, Coyote Engine, Tremec TKO600, Custom Interior. Best of Show winner, Huntington Beach Cruise In 2018.

    1967 Ford Mustang Coupe build thread updated 1/22/2021

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  41. #78
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    Rear Anti Sway Bars Part 1: Heim Joint preparation

    Sometimes being a pack rat pays off. I knew that somewhere I had my grandfathers old tap and die set. In order to prepare the Heim Joints for the front and rear swaybar installation, I knew that this set would really help straighten out the threads. So check out this antique: a Pre-War Tap and Die set in a carved wood box!


    I began cutting the male and female heim joints by marking them for 1/2" length and put them into the vise. For the male joint, I pre-threaded the 1/2"x20 Die onto the threads so that when it was removed it would recut the existing threads.



    I purchased a carbide blade made for hard metal for the sawsall. Lesson one: buy the longer blade. I chose the short one because I felt there would be less blade movement on it. This one worked fine, but it would have been easier if the blade was another couple of inches longer.


    The cutting process was a bit nerve racking, but was really rather simple. After cutting, I polished up the ends with the fine grinder wheel, and then straightened out the threads on both sides. They screwed right together.

    Then the challenges began . . .
    Jazzman

    MKIV #8745 "Flip Top" Roadster, Custom Tilt front, Coyote Engine, Tremec TKO600, Custom Interior. Best of Show winner, Huntington Beach Cruise In 2018.

    1967 Ford Mustang Coupe build thread updated 1/22/2021

    Roadster Frame Dolly Plan

  42. #79
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    Rear Swaybar Installation, Part 2

    I pulled out the special instructions for the Rear Sway bar that EdwardB was kind enough to forward to me. Here is a photo of how the joint is supposed to go together:


    I installed, loosely, the PS heim joint first. I attached it to the LCA, then tried to attach it to the swaybar. The angle looked a bit funky, but it matched the instructions. (I just realized that in the photo, I have one of the small spacers on the wrong side of the attachment point, nearer the nut. I know it has to go inside between the attachment ear and the heim joint. Since I was testing for fit, I just left it there so I wouldn't lose it.)


    Then I checked the other end of the bar to see if the attachment points would be in the right place. They were not. The DS end is too far left.


    So I decided to switch around the heim joint on the PS to put the joint on the inside of the bar end (contrary to the directions). The problem just moved to the right.



    It looks like the swaybar is exactly the right length to be centered between the two ears of the attachment point on the LCA's, but this doesn't leave any space for the heim joints. Any suggestions about how to attach the Sway bar without having some weird angles on the heim joints?
    Last edited by Jazzman; 01-05-2016 at 12:18 AM.
    Jazzman

    MKIV #8745 "Flip Top" Roadster, Custom Tilt front, Coyote Engine, Tremec TKO600, Custom Interior. Best of Show winner, Huntington Beach Cruise In 2018.

    1967 Ford Mustang Coupe build thread updated 1/22/2021

    Roadster Frame Dolly Plan

  43. #80
    Not a waxer Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jazzman View Post
    ... I noticed after I got home that the patina of the two new bolts is slightly different. (it might be difficult to see in the photo.) I also notice that the markings on the end are different. They came out of the same bin, and sound the same when you strike them against another piece of steel. (Ok, I know the "sound" method may not be a generally accepted evaluation tool of this issue. What can I say: once a musician, always a musician!) Both are supposed to be grade 5. Are they different, or are they just manufactured by different companies?

    They are different. The bolt on the left is a Grade 5 while the one on the right is a Grade 2. You'll want to get the proper Grade 5 for a suspension application.

    FYI, the markings on the head tell the story:
    ---no bars=Grade 2; low or medium carbon steel with a 74,000# minimum tensile strength
    ---3 bars=Grade 5; medium carbon steel that is quenched and tempered with a 120,000# minimum tensile strength
    ---6 bars=Grade 8; medium carbon alloy steel that is quenched and tempered with a 150,000# minimum tensile strength

    With that I'll modify your earlier comment to fit myself... What can I say: once an engineer, always an engineer!

    Regarding your concerns on the sway bar fit; it looks like the lower control arms are at full droop which means as they travel through their arc the space between the bar mounting points becomes less. If you raise them to be more nearly horizontal as they will be at actual ride height I bet you'll find things will look and fit better.

    Cheers,
    Jeff

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