Midwest 33 Build Page

[Midwest 33 Build]

I ended up extending the paint area by a couple feet so I can walk around a little easier and I added tarp zippers on one end so I can roll the cart in and out. I also added an additional intake filter and exhaust fan to get some more air flowing. I got the body prepped for the first round of surfacer and got that sprayed. Had a little issue part way through with the regulator coming loose from the end of the paint gun. I re-installed while still in the booth but didn't test the air pressure before I started spraying again and ended up with a couple runs. They are sanding out pretty easy but if that would have happened laying base or clear it would have been bad. Live and learn.

Started blocking down the surfacer. I am using a combination of 180, 220 and 320 grit for the first round of surfacer.

I've clamped the dashboard gauge plate in place but I want to review online photos to see how others have positioned things. I'll look at it clamped there for a few days to see if I like it before drilling.

[Midwest 33 Build]

Got the holes drilled for the gauges. Just need to drill out the ignition and light switches.

[Midwest 33 Build]

I have a lot to learn on the body work and painting. Thought I would take the tunnel cover and waterfall through to clear so I could get some practice spraying the color and clears. Even though I could see a few dirt nibs in the Base Color on the waterfall that I would need to take care of all was going pretty good until I got to the mid coat tinted clear. The first two coats of it went on fine and I thought I was going to make it through without screwing it up. Ended up putting the 3rd coat on too wet or didn't leave the 2nd coat flash enough and I ended up with several runs I need to fix. I decided to stop and not apply the 3 coats of top coat clear. I'll have to go research how to fix tinted mid clear. Hopefully I don't have to strip it all back down. Interesting most of the runs started after I was able to take a few photos. Back to the drawing board.

[Arrowhead]

Don't want to be a Debbie downer but a tri coat for your first overall paint job is quite an undertaking. An even coating of the mid coat is critical so I would highly suggest your figure out a way of spraying the body with the doors and trunk lid in place. You can probably get by with doing the roof separate though as the break in the body line would make any color mismatch less noticeable. I applaud your efforts though and wish you the best of luck.

[Midwest 33 Build]

Thanks Arrowhead. Yes, I did pick a challenging color to begin with so I will have to work out a plan of spraying doors in place. I am going black above the top half moon on the outside so I might get away with the trunk lid and roof separate. Take care.

[Midwest 33 Build]

Take two on practicing spraying the different paint stages on the tunnel cover. By time the first attempt at tinted clear fully cured there was what looked like a jagged shark bite along the entire passenger side. I tried something I saw on You Tube to remove the run which was to mix up some glazing putty and surround the run. Let it dry, then sand it down. The putty helped keep the block level and from digging in clear coat around the run. it worked.

I resprayed the base, 3 coats of tinted clear, and 3 coats of clear this time with no runs. I don't think I left enough flash time the first go around so this time I waited 20-25 minutes between each coat. I started to color sand, cut and buff but need more color sanding on that lower ledge of the cover and research the cutting and buffing process a little more. I did a quick color check and posted the photos of where it sits now.

[Midwest 33 Build]

I'm envious from the other threads with multiple people helping on the builds. Here it is just me. Four days or so of block sanding the main body and when I get too tired of that I move to the frame and continue color sanding and polishing that. A lot of work but not much that would be interesting for others. I decided to go ahead and try to see if I could remove the visible driver side down tube run and dry spray areas. I got most all of the down tube run leveled out except for one slight dip that I am still working on. I am going slow at it because I don't want to scratch down into the tinted clear. The dry spray so far has come out with light sanding, leveling the slight peel in the clear takes longer.

The process I am using is a progression of 1200, 1500, and 2000 wet sand paper. Then 3000 and 5000 wet sanding sponges followed by McGuires Ultra Cut and then Fine Polish. I am trying the sealant and glaze too after that. Unfortunately with all of the angles and tight areas most of it is by hand which is mind and finger numbing. Look and take photos then go back at spots that need more work. I am only about a quarter of the way through the engine compartment area. I have a mini buffer but in the tight areas if you are not careful the velcro backing and backing pad can nick the clear coat so it has been mostly by hand.

I have been trying to practice spraying paint as much as I can. I had some flat black that I sprayed the battery cover with. Then thought I'd try the carbon fiber paint effect. It was good for a break from the sanding. It will be flat black again the next time you see it.

[erlihemi]

Looks great! A year from now the blisters will be healed...

[Midwest 33 Build]

Thanks for the laugh Erlihemi ! Assuming I am not still sanding on it a year from now. Take care!

[Midwest 33 Build]

Got the poly surfacer blocked down on the main body and sprayed 2 coats of the 2K primer. With the amount of overspray I am getting I must need to back off on the pressure or get closer with the gun or something. I will need to figure that out before I block this down and spray the next rounds. Results were pretty good but I have a garage full of black powdered dust from the overspray and white dust from the poly surfacer. Started mopping some of that up. I did find my garage floor under all that. Waiting for a warmer day so I can take a pressure washer to it and get it cleaned back up.

Even with the matte black color it helps show some additional shaping/sanding I need to do around the 3 or 4 inch bottom curved edge that goes around the back.

[Midwest 33 Build]

Spent the weekend fixing my first attempt painting the waterfall. Sanded and resprayed the layers of base, tinted clear and then clear. Just a few dirt nibs or solvent pops and a bit of orange peel. I sanded with 1200, 1500, 2000, 3000, 5000 the first go at cutting but noticed I had a few deeper scratches from the 1200 that didn't come out that easy so I went at it again with 1500, 2000, 2500, 3000, then 5000 and it came about okay for my first real part that will be seen.

I still have a bit to do around the top lip and edge, but I will save that towards the end. I don't want to get to aggressive in the corners or on the edges and have to start all over again.

Interesting the tricks light plays with this color. None of the photos really capture the pearl that really shows in the sunlight and the lower the light the color turns noticeably darker towards burgundy. There is a certain light where I actually don't like the color as it turns a bit mauve-ish. Hopefully I don't have to hide the car during the part of the day. I posted a few of the different shades as I worked on it today.

[wallace18]

Wow! that looks great.

[gumbya55]

This is really nice work. I am jealous of your cleanliness. Wasn't clear on how you solved your trunk issue, cause Im dealing with the same thing now. Did you just use the fabricated brace as a guide to reglass the shape of the lid to fit? Or is that part of your trunk lid now?

[Midwest 33 Build]

Thanks Guys...

Gumbya55 - Even though I think the trunk lid would retain shape after I cut and glassed it to the right shape, my intent is to leave the brackets in place. I may try for a stealthier looking version though later. I haven't had the body back on the frame since they were installed so I am anxious to do final fit with them. I have laid the trunk lid on the rubber bumpers while the body is on the buck and it appears to have solved it for me. There are other options though as you look through the build threads. I see WRP is putting the flush mount pins on his which look nice. If you do go with long brackets note the inside layer of the trunk lid fiberglass is really thin and the recess is hollow so if it is like mine will need filled with something for support. FYI: Dremmel tool with a small drum sanding bit made a nice opening for me. Additional photo attached if you are interested. Good visual of how thin that inside layer is too.

[Midwest 33 Build]

I decided to go chrome on a few parts and they finally came in so I started putting the chassis back together. Not terribly thrilled with the overall quality but want to get this thing on the road this year so I decided to go with it. Hopefully I'll have enough energy left this weekend to finish the block sand of the first round of primer on the body and spray a second round. I'd like to get the body remounted so I can re-check the roof and finish the top fitment of the doors.

Hopefully motor and transmission go back in next weekend. I need to research getting that crab-style distributor installed right the first time because there isn't enough room to pull it up and turn-it 180 if I get it wrong without removing the blower.

[Midwest 33 Build]

Didn't have as much time working on the car that I had hoped to this week but I was able to finish block sanding the first round of 2K primer on the main body and respray a second round. I reduced the air pressure and tightened up the fan on the spray gun and got much better results on this round. That fine overspray dust gets everywhere though. I do like the look of the matte black primer. Small part of me is thinking just leave it with primer and call it a day on this painting stuff.

My neighbor and wife helped me get the body placed back on the frame tonight so I installed the waterfall and roll bar to see how things were fitting. I still have everything loose fit still as I'll need to take everything apart as soon as I am done with final fitment of the doors, roof and trunk lid. I have poly surfacer on the top of the trunk lid and and roof all block sanded and ready for primer tonight.

I added a photo of one of the challenging areas for me to smooth out on mine. You'd think after this many months of spreading and sanding filler I get good at it but when it comes to smoothing out the mold seems in the back corners where all the curves come together it has been particularly challenging for me to do. It's getting better after each round but I still see a hint of the seams under both sides.

[Motor_Freak]

wow, looks good. Like the color combo.

[Midwest 33 Build]

Thanks Motor Freak, much appreciated.

[Midwest 33 Build]

Thought I was out of the woods with the trunk lid but a bit disappointed now. I consciously didn't want to install the trunk seal early because I didn't want to mess it up. I was using the little rubber bumpers supplied. I now see that was a bad decision for shaping that lid. I ended up removing the brackets I made because even with bumpers it was slightly off. It actually fit nicely without the brackets and on the rubber bumpers. The drivers side bottom corner which was the worst area on mine actually road slightly below the main body which I thought was good because I would just use the taller bumper to raise it up.

Then I decided I better try with the seal on and damn if it doesn't throw that bottom driver side edge back up too far. I lost two nights just looking at it in amazement for the amount of work put into it and then decided to move on and come back at it with a clearer mind. The first three photos are without the seal and the last one is what the seal does to that bottom edge. Arrrgh...

[Midwest 33 Build]

I was able to put the first round of 2k primer on the roof tonight. Haven't had the roof on the car to check fitment for a while so I was anxious to see how it fit with the the layers of surfacer and primer and the body on the frame. Relatively happy with how it turned out. It rides just slightly high in a couple areas and I can see the touch points that I can sand a bit to flatten it out. I was so anxious that as soon as the paint gun was cleaned and it was dry to the touch I put it on the car.

[Midwest 33 Build]

Got the engine and transmission re-installed. Tight fit doing both at the same time and it was a little nerve racking trying not to nick anything as it was going in. Had the assistance of my wife guiding which was a big help. Got that all tightened up and primed the oil pump today so I can start buttoning this thing up. Realized I need to research and find eight longer inside bolts for that taller blower intake before I can take that any further though.

[Midwest 33 Build]

I measured for the correct length intake manifold bolts and got them in and the intake sealed and torqued to spec. Blower is hand tight for now. I installed the distributor at TDC and pointing at #1 on the cap but with the tall intake manifold and crab style cap I won't be able to rotate it very far in either direction so I'll need to ask around if I should install a few degrees before TDC. Ford racing specs show to install at TDC, other specs found on line show at 10 degrees BTDC. I'll research that more. I sure hope the Mallory Unilite distributor works. I couldn't find another distributor that small in size. If it doesn't I may need to switch over to a crank trigger which would mean re-spacing the blower drive pulleys. Something I am trying to avoid.

Broke the seats out for the first time since inventory. I have them loosely placed with transmission tunnel, drive shaft tunnel and new shifter so I can determine where to mark and drill mounting holes. Although I have A Lot left to do, with the primer on and the motor coming back together it feels like I am getting closer.

[Niagara Dave]

That looks bad to the bone! Great job.

[Midwest 33 Build]

Thanks Dave ! Can't wait until I get to the point you are at with driving it.

Spent the day sanding more off the edging of the upper firewall. I'll need to take it in to get powder coated again, but I'll wait since each time I take it off I tweak a little bit more. Guessing others noticed on their builds, but I didn't catch it until late but the upper corners of the actual body on mine are different thicknesses. The driver side corner was about an 1/8 of an inch thinner than the passenger side. I've been tweaking that corner since spraying surfacer.

I've also been down to the local gun range a few times now looking for shell casing that I could use to cover the firewall to body screws. I ended up changing from 1/4 x 20 button heads to a socket screw and added some spent 45 shell casings for covers. Looks really neat in person, but hard for me to get a decent photo.

[erlihemi]

I like the brass! In NY we could only use 7 ...
Maybe you could find some big rifle brass like 338 Lapua or Remington mag for the blower bolts. Or some 12 ga shells so you could have a shotgun ford...

[erlihemi]

I'm assuming the brass just pushes over the socket head. If you really want a theme you can deprime the appropriate shell size, drill and tap the head and come up with a secure fastening method. You may be able to loctite the spent primer back over it if you stay in machine screw range. Or flip it and have a bullet in it.! Obviously I'm referring to inert shells not live ammo here. Just for web site safety clarification...
Let's see, 223 for toggle switches , Win mag for nitrous, 338 Lapua for turn signal and tilt lever, and 50BMG for the shifter (416 in California ).

[Midwest 33 Build]

Hi Erlihemi, Yes, for now just press on. I found the tubing you use to cover bolt threads when powder coating makes a nice tight fit over the round bolt head and also the inside of the shells. My mind was doing the same thing thinking of different areas I could subtly use them without over doing it. Bought a bag without primers just to tinker around a bit.

[Midwest 33 Build]

I started looking into how I was going to mount the alternator. Guessing without the blower it's a little more straight forward but with the blower and electric water pump it's tight and I only have a small angle to line the V-grooves on the alternator and crank shaft without placing an idler pulley on the other side. Tried a few different kits from the parts store and ended up piecing together a Frankenstein looking mock-up. At least now I know where the fitment needs to be so I can go buy some aluminum stock and craft up a more sightly version of it.

[Midwest 33 Build]

Wrapped a string around the alternator pulley and crank pulley to measure and surprisingly I was able to find an alternator belt locally. I installed it and did a first pass at cutting the spark plug wires to length and terminated them. I left the cross overs that go to the other side of the crab cap a little longer for now. Once I get the thermostat housing and other front brackets done I'll see if I need to trim further.

I want to double check the torque on the harmonic balancer bolt before I finish the blower pulley and belt. I'll need to figure out something the keep the car stationary though. Even in gear it wants to roll forward.

[Midwest 33 Build]

I double checked the torque on the harmonic balancer and then installed the lower blower spacer, pulley and belt. I was able to then re-install the radiator and grill. The contrast between the chrome control arms and grill is noticeable but I'm not going to mess with color changes on it until the car is painted. Hopefully it will grow on me a bit by then.

I started to mock up how the fuel lines to the carb will be run. I'd prefer to have the inlet connection to the dual carb line at the rear of the engine but with this current Edelbrock carb line if I put the inlet connection in the back it sticks over the body which I didn't like. I made up the short stainless host run from the carbs to the regulator. I'll need a different -6AN to 3/8 NPT connector for the inlet. Thinking I need the O Ring style -6AN since the current one I have loosely fit doesn't feel like it will seat all the way in when I tighten it up.

Another parts order and two day wait to get them in.

[Shoeless]

I have to say, I am very impressed thus far with your progress and workmanship. Its a pleasure to read and can't wait to see the finished product.

[Midwest 33 Build]

Thanks Shoeless !, Much Appreciated. I am a year in and still having a blast doing the build.

[Midwest 33 Build]

Been looking at slightly larger wheels and tires for or a while. I decided to take the long drive to a popular parts store to pick them up, but found out 'In-Stock' doesn't necessarily mean that warehouse. Silly me. I was able to outfit the rear wheels and tires and the front wheels are on order. Even with all the measuring the tire/rim selection for these things is challenging, at least for me. You want to fill that rear well section as much as possible but you don't want to have to worry about bottoming out or chewing up the paint job. It would be nice if someone made a bolt-on / add-on kit for these things that would move the rear axle back a few inches to enable bigger tires to fill in more of that rear well section.

I decided to go with 18" Weld Forged RT-S wheels with Mickey Thompson 28.00 to 28.99 tires in the back. I went Weld 18" rims in the front too but narrower and 26" tire height. It should give the car a slight rake down from back to front. I should have the fronts in and mounted later this week.

I added a photo so people can see the rear tire to body gap with this wheel/tire size combination.

[H R Lucky]

It would be nice if someone made a bolt-on / add-on kit for these things that would move the rear axle back a few inches to enable bigger tires to fill in more of that rear well section.

Someone does make a bolt-on kit that moves the rear axle back to center it in the wheel well. His name is Dan Ruth, His screen name 'KGB911'
google 'Innovative Rodding'

[Midwest 33 Build]

Thank You Nevin. I will look for it.

[Midwest 33 Build]

Well I've been putting off the doors as long as I could because I knew I was going to have to cut-off and reposition the Passenger side inside half moon so it would meet up with the dash. Before I sent the frame to be repainted I gapped all the doors at 5m to account for all the layers. The passenger side mounted in just fine and the door gaps maintained but when I mounted the driver side door the bottom of the doors gap is just fine but at the top of the door front and back were way off ??? Best I can figure is that I only had the body mounted to the firewall with the middle three screws until recently. The remaining driver side body/firewall screws must pull the driver side of the front/dash area of the body forward quite a bit.

I posted some pictures of me trying to get things back in shape. I used 3/16 high foam strip and pressed it on the body side of the door jam. I then taped around the area outside and inside the door edge since I still suck at applying filler. I found that filler doesn't stick that well to plastic until it kicks hard so I cut strips of the thin plastic Beware of Dog signs and place it on the door side of the 3/16 foam. I used stranded filler and pressed into the gap between the door and the plastic enough so I can tell it's gone all the way through. Once I see that the filler is starting to kick I gently pull the plastic strips out and remove the tape and foam strip.

Sanding the rear side of the door is challenging with the door on the car as you only get a few inches of room when the door is open. I used sand paper on paint sticks originally but noticed if your not careful you can gouge up the jam area. I posted a pic of something I'm finding works pretty good to sand the gaps. The filler spreaders are thin and rigid enough to give a flat surface to use sticky back sandpaper with.

[Midwest 33 Build]

Well I am completely exhausted but I got the doors reworked, removed, primed and reinstalled. The inside of the doors gets caked with fiber and filler dust through the process so I took the rails and brackets out before priming and took the time to clean everything up inside. The doors went back in place a bit easier this last time but trying to insert those rail bolts and then catch a few threads on the nut with one hand reaching through the window area is a little tricky. Would have been easier with the roof off, but wife's got a pinched nerve and can't help lift for a while.

It's difficult for me to see progress when doing some of the body work stuff but I was going through some of my older pictures and pulled a comparison shot from January of this year and one from today and posted.

[Midwest 33 Build]

I circled back to the fitment issues with the trunk area. I spent most the weekend letting the trunk lid kick my butt, but I think I finally got it. I first got the trunk lid to lay flat on the driver side bottom by adjusting the hinges better. I thought I better get the latch and latch brackets in place before sizing the gaps. It took me from about 10am Saturday to 3am Sunday to get those brackets situated correctly. On mine the latch pin bracket would bottom out on the top of the latch bracket mounted in the trunk. I added a photo of the bracket that got the best of me for all that time. The latch pin bracket has holes to move it side to side, but for me to get the bracket (not the pin) to not bottom out on the latch bracket it needed to go back to front.

I finally got it to sit reasonably well. I re-gapped the lid, masked the car where it sat and resprayed a coat of primer. The light sanding I'm doing up to the gaps without dipping inside helps the gap to stand out so I can see if there places that need more work.

I still have to powder coat the latch brackets in the trunk though so hopefully it goes back together easier the next time.

[Midwest 33 Build]

Thought I would color check the black base coat with clear and see if I am able to spray it correctly. I do like the color but I'm really questioning my ability to pull off a paint job that I would be happy with. I am not using the front side panels so I thought I would use them for testing. Lot's of time color sanding, cutting and buffing on this test piece and some angles look great but some don't look good at all.

[Midwest 33 Build]

It's been a few weeks since providing an update. Boring for others but have been sanding, priming, and repeating - many many times. Still tweaking the upper door fitment and trying to flatten all the ends of all the half-moons. Getting close on that but not quite there. Posted a couple pictures of the upper doors as they sit right now. Still working them.

I've blocked and primed that trunk lid more times than I would like to admit now but I think I am ready to remove it and paint it this weekend. This last go round I sprayed gray 2K and used dry guide coat so I could get a better visual of bad areas. Blocked it with 320 then 400 and tried cleaning the gaps back up. I do want to mark the bracket locations somehow before I remove the lid so I can put it back in place a little easier. A bit anxious to see if I got the panel looking straight/flat once it gets the gloss black.

I changed to plastic again on the make shift paint booth in hopes to keep the dust down. Guys at Eastwood store were pretty helpful. I described the problem with the excessive dry spray using the 2K primer and they quickly noted I probably wasn't getting all the water out of my air line. When the catalyzed primer hits water in the air it hardens. I ended up running several vertical pipe runs up and down the wall with drain valves at the bottom and then piped that into two water separators and then a Devilbis desiccant dryer. That seems to have done the trick.