Fuel Safe Systems

Visit our community sponsor

Thanks Thanks:  11
Likes Likes:  17
Page 19 of 19 FirstFirst ... 9171819
Results 721 to 725 of 725

Thread: EdwardBs Mk4 #8674 20th Anniversary Build

  1. #721
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Posts
    23
    Post Thanks / Like
    Question: In post #118, the first photo showing the back of the dash the dash supports appear to have the sides bent up in an "L", which I assume is for strength. My support pieces are flat, except for the turn down where they mount to the 2 inch frame tube. How were you able to make those bends? I have a metal brake, but can't figure out how to form the edges without ruining the frame attachment section. Thanks as always for your input.

  2. #722
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Lake Orion, Michigan
    Posts
    6,055
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by zilverx View Post
    Question: In post #118, the first photo showing the back of the dash the dash supports appear to have the sides bent up in an "L", which I assume is for strength. My support pieces are flat, except for the turn down where they mount to the 2 inch frame tube. How were you able to make those bends? I have a metal brake, but can't figure out how to form the edges without ruining the frame attachment section. Thanks as always for your input.
    I have the very inexpensive and basic Harbor Freight 30-inch brake. Used it to make those pieces. Yes, the "L" on the edges is for strength plus just looks more finished. The way I do that is first have an oversize piece, at least an inch or more past the intended "L" bend. That provides enough material to make the bends on the HF brake. Then I trim the excess material off to leave just the "L showing in the pictures. Hopefully that makes sense. Then use a block of wood or scrap piece of metal, whatever, that fits between the bent up "L" profile and put the other slight bends in using the brake. Someday maybe I'll get a real box brake. Have looked at Woodward Fab among others. But right now make do with the simple one.
    Last edited by edwardb; 07-02-2019 at 05:27 AM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. #8674 Build Thread and Video
    Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 crate Coyote. Delivered 12/2/2017. #59 Coupe Build Thread

  3. #723

    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Elk Grove, NorCal
    Posts
    340
    Post Thanks / Like
    Paul
    Id like to thank you for sharing your builds in great detail. Ive referenced your builds numerous times which made my build easier. I really appreciate your contributions.
    Eddie

  4. Thanks edwardb thanked for this post
    Likes Ehartsock liked this post
  5. #724
    Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Orange County, Ca
    Posts
    30
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    Those couplers are part number 90977A190 from McMaster. Grade 5, 7/16"-20 Thread Size, 1-3/4" long. https://www.mcmaster.com/90977A190. I used them because my other on-hand hardware (threaded rod, lock nuts, etc.) was also fine pitch 7/16"-20. Similar couplers are typically available at your local hardware in 7/16"-14 threads. Also usually about 1-3/4" long and would work fine. The length isn't critical though.
    Trunk body mounts.jpg
    Did you add a spacer to make up the difference between the couple and the body. And I assume the upper one has to be re-installed when the trunk floor is permanently installed. I attached a picture of what I think is proper.

  6. #725
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Lake Orion, Michigan
    Posts
    6,055
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by bobm488 View Post
    Trunk body mounts.jpg
    Did you add a spacer to make up the difference between the couple and the body. And I assume the upper one has to be re-installed when the trunk floor is permanently installed. I attached a picture of what I think is proper.
    No, I wouldn't recommend using a spacer like that. Better to use a nut and washer on the inside so you can adjust the body position for the best trunk lid fit. In other words, when you push the threaded rod piece through the body, put on a washer and then a nut before threading into the coupler. Thread the coupler in, and then sandwich the body between the nut and washer on the inside and whatever hardware you're using on the outside to hold the quick jacks and/or bumper and overriders. There will be a small section of the threaded rod left exposed. Doesn't hurt anything. But I put a piece of electrical conduit over it and looks fine. Hope that all makes sense.

    As far as the trunk floor, no I don't remove the couplers during assembly. I install all four couplers on the bare chassis and leave them there. I drill the holes the trunk floor piece a bit bigger so the aluminum slides over them.
    Last edited by edwardb; 08-13-2019 at 06:15 AM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. #8674 Build Thread and Video
    Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 crate Coyote. Delivered 12/2/2017. #59 Coupe Build Thread

Page 19 of 19 FirstFirst ... 9171819

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

Stewart Transport

Visit our community sponsor