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Thread: EdwardBs Mk4 #8674 20th Anniversary Build

  1. #721
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    Question: In post #118, the first photo showing the back of the dash the dash supports appear to have the sides bent up in an "L", which I assume is for strength. My support pieces are flat, except for the turn down where they mount to the 2 inch frame tube. How were you able to make those bends? I have a metal brake, but can't figure out how to form the edges without ruining the frame attachment section. Thanks as always for your input.

  2. #722
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by zilverx View Post
    Question: In post #118, the first photo showing the back of the dash the dash supports appear to have the sides bent up in an "L", which I assume is for strength. My support pieces are flat, except for the turn down where they mount to the 2 inch frame tube. How were you able to make those bends? I have a metal brake, but can't figure out how to form the edges without ruining the frame attachment section. Thanks as always for your input.
    I have the very inexpensive and basic Harbor Freight 30-inch brake. Used it to make those pieces. Yes, the "L" on the edges is for strength plus just looks more finished. The way I do that is first have an oversize piece, at least an inch or more past the intended "L" bend. That provides enough material to make the bends on the HF brake. Then I trim the excess material off to leave just the "L showing in the pictures. Hopefully that makes sense. Then use a block of wood or scrap piece of metal, whatever, that fits between the bent up "L" profile and put the other slight bends in using the brake. Someday maybe I'll get a real box brake. Have looked at Woodward Fab among others. But right now make do with the simple one.
    Last edited by edwardb; 07-02-2019 at 05:27 AM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. #8674 Build Thread and Video
    Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 crate Coyote. Delivered 12/2/2017. #59 Coupe Build Thread

  3. #723

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    Paul
    Iíd like to thank you for sharing your builds in great detail. Iíve referenced your builds numerous times which made my build easier. I really appreciate your contributions.
    Eddie

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  5. #724
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    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    Those couplers are part number 90977A190 from McMaster. Grade 5, 7/16"-20 Thread Size, 1-3/4" long. https://www.mcmaster.com/90977A190. I used them because my other on-hand hardware (threaded rod, lock nuts, etc.) was also fine pitch 7/16"-20. Similar couplers are typically available at your local hardware in 7/16"-14 threads. Also usually about 1-3/4" long and would work fine. The length isn't critical though.
    Trunk body mounts.jpg
    Did you add a spacer to make up the difference between the couple and the body. And I assume the upper one has to be re-installed when the trunk floor is permanently installed. I attached a picture of what I think is proper.

  6. #725
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bobm488 View Post
    Trunk body mounts.jpg
    Did you add a spacer to make up the difference between the couple and the body. And I assume the upper one has to be re-installed when the trunk floor is permanently installed. I attached a picture of what I think is proper.
    No, I wouldn't recommend using a spacer like that. Better to use a nut and washer on the inside so you can adjust the body position for the best trunk lid fit. In other words, when you push the threaded rod piece through the body, put on a washer and then a nut before threading into the coupler. Thread the coupler in, and then sandwich the body between the nut and washer on the inside and whatever hardware you're using on the outside to hold the quick jacks and/or bumper and overriders. There will be a small section of the threaded rod left exposed. Doesn't hurt anything. But I put a piece of electrical conduit over it and looks fine. Hope that all makes sense.

    As far as the trunk floor, no I don't remove the couplers during assembly. I install all four couplers on the bare chassis and leave them there. I drill the holes the trunk floor piece a bit bigger so the aluminum slides over them.
    Last edited by edwardb; 08-13-2019 at 06:15 AM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. #8674 Build Thread and Video
    Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 crate Coyote. Delivered 12/2/2017. #59 Coupe Build Thread

  7. #726
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    Hola Edwardb, what specific type of red is that? Itís beautiful! Thanks!


    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    We completed move-in yesterday, and today have everything set and polished. Show doesn't officially open for another hour, but there are a bunch of people here already. My location on the show floor is "OK" but not as good as the past. I have a vendor display on each side of me. But we're here and ready for three days, and I enjoy it a lot. With no commentary, here are a bunch of pictures. The floor is the Race Deck out of my old garage that I haven't had a chance to install in the new house yet. Worked out well and I didn't have to rent carpet. The stanchions are from a fellow Great Lakes Cobra Club member, who made them up a couple years ago for his display. The bases are disk rotors, the posts are cams from a Terminator (not Coyote, but I'll make due...) and the tops he had made. Very cool and fitting for the display. Enjoy!














  8. #727
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aircontroller View Post
    Hola Edwardb, what specific type of red is that? It’s beautiful! Thanks!
    Agreed, it's a great color. It's very rare when people are looking at the car that they don't comment about the color. In a good way. It's actually a bit more "red" in sunlight versus the indoor lighting at Cobo Center Detroit where those pics were taken. Officially, it's Ford Red Candy 2, code RZ. A tri-coat.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. #8674 Build Thread and Video
    Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 crate Coyote. Delivered 12/2/2017. #59 Coupe Build Thread

  9. #728
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    Hey, I've seen that car before, same spot too.

    Doesn't look as good there as out in the wild though. Sounds and rides great too. Truly stunning!

    Jim

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  11. #729
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    Just got through this thread, thanks so much for posting all this helpful information for us new builders! Your build came out beautifully!

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  13. #730
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    Hey Paul,

    Question for you. How do you like the 18" rims and tires compared to the 17"s on your #7750? Is the ride a lot rougher on the 18"s?

    Thanks,

    Rod

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  15. #731
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rezell3d View Post
    Hey Paul,

    Question for you. How do you like the 18" rims and tires compared to the 17"s on your #7750? Is the ride a lot rougher on the 18"s?

    Thanks,

    Rod
    Hi Rod. I'm very happy with the 18" wheels and tires. But the two cars are quite different. #7750 was a solid axle build (Levy 5-link) with the standard red Koni shocks. This build is IRS with the silver double adjustable Koni shocks. I find this car rides quite a bit better than #7750. What I would expect comparing solid axle to IRS. According to FF, the double adjustable shocks are slightly more compliant than the red Koni's, so that contributes as well. Would this ride be even better with 17" wheels and tires? Don't know, but it's really good just the way it is. Everyone that rides in it, and I've given lots of rides, are surprised (in a good way) about how it rides. I don't have any concerns recommending the 18's. Chose them again for my Coupe build. That's about all I can offer. Hope it helps.
    Last edited by edwardb; 11-11-2019 at 08:07 PM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. #8674 Build Thread and Video
    Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 crate Coyote. Delivered 12/2/2017. #59 Coupe Build Thread

  16. #732
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    Quote Originally Posted by rezell3d View Post
    Hey Paul,

    Question for you. How do you like the 18" rims and tires compared to the 17"s on your #7750? Is the ride a lot rougher on the 18"s?

    Thanks,

    Rod
    Rod,

    I just switched from 17" to 18" wheels on my MK4 and although I haven't gotten my car on the open road, the ride doesn't feel any different with the couple of trips around the block (about 4 miles) that I've made so far.

    Dave
    There are 10 types of people in this world;
    those who understand binary and those who don't.

    My Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...ter-Build-9754

    Delivered: 6/17/2017
    First Start: 12/30/2017
    Completed: 12/7/2019
    Legal: ../../2020

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  18. #733
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    Merry Christmas from Scott in Thailand.

    Congrats on 5000 miles!

    Just a few words of Thanks for a greatly informative write up and build. I don't think a day goes by that during my MkIV SBF build that I have not referenced the very thorough build up of your 20th anniversary Roadster. Even though I do have experience building other replicas and race cars, there's always those head scratchers, but I always find that referencing your build is the best affirmation of how to do it right. Much Thanks and Happy 2020!

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