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Thread: Junbug's Colorado Mk IV Coyote/TKX Build Thread: Wiper Motor, F-panels, Trunk Struts

  1. #1
    Senior Member Junbug's Avatar
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    Junbug's Colorado Mk IV Coyote/TKX Build Thread: Wiper Motor, F-panels, Trunk Struts

    So I finally pulled the trigger and ordered my Mk IV complete kit. This is a build i'm doing with my son to build a cruiser/driver not a track car. He just turned 16 and loves cars so we're both looking forward to getting our hands dirty and building this together. Below are a few of the basic details of the kit and other pieces I plan to order. As I'm relatively amateur I'm open to questions, suggestions and recommendations.

    Ordered 6/30/2022, Estimated Ship Date 1/14/2023
    Mk IV complete Kit, Powdercoated Chassis, and body cutouts
    Coyote Full Length Ball Headers Assembly
    31 Spline IRS 10.50' Driveshaft
    Black Vinyl Seats
    2015 IRS Parts Kit
    FFR GPS Gauge Set
    Wind Wings
    Sun Visors
    Wiper Kit
    CF Dash w/ Glove Box
    Right Side Rollbar
    14" Leather Steering Wheel
    Trunk Gas Strut Kit
    Gen 3 Coyote Install Kit
    2018 IRS 3.55 Center Section and Spindles
    Wildwood Front and Back Brakes
    Gen 3 Coyote, EFI from Mike Forte with a TKX 5 speed manual transmission
    Also plan on buying my own wheels/tires. I really like the look of the 25th Anniversary wheels so any suggestions on where to buy similar wheels that fit over the Wildwood brakes would be appreciated.

    Additions:
    Russ Thompson turn indicator
    Drop Trunk
    Pipes (Gas-n Touring, eventually)
    Breeze: Front battery mount, all of the radiator mounting parts, storage cubby panel
    Seat Heaters
    Removable Hard top (eventually)


    So what am i missing? I appreciate the expertise on this forum (been lurking for about a year, and have read/re-read numerous build threads) and hope to correct any errors or add additional parts before my January 2023 ship date!
    Last edited by Junbug; 01-23-2023 at 06:42 PM.

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  3. #2
    Senior Member John Ibele's Avatar
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    Oh man, you deserve a way better welcome to the madness than this. Welcome and congratulations!! You've picked a great adventure, and it's really cool that you've got another car guy to go along on the journey with you. I took my two sons to build school years ago and it was a memorable experience for all of us. My boys helped with the build here and there, but to be honest, I slowed them down, and years later they help out whenever I ask as I continue to plug away with the time I have available.

    Your choices already show that you've done plenty of reading, and the things you've selected seem to line up well with the cruiser / driver objectives you stated at the top. Others have stressed the value of having these cars match what we have in our daily drivers as much as possible, both for safety but also for enjoyment. You've got a number of those things in your list. For driveability I think the first thing most builders look at is power steering, and you have that in your list. From everything I've read, a good choice, and hard to see anything you're giving up in the process, unless you've alway had a secret desire for Popeye forearms, or breaking into a sweat as you turn your steering wheel in a parking lot. Two big plusses: easier turning, but perhaps as important, the ability to run with higher caster and therefore better tracking and stability at cruising speeds. All in line with the 'make it drive like your daily driver' idea. With the Coyote as your engine choice, you really don't have to choose between cruiser / driver or performance / Autox ... you get it all in one package. Just get your right foot gradually further into it, and your well-mannered cruiser will feel, sound and act like something very different. I didn't go that route, perferring to stick with a 302-heritage pushrod engine, but it's a great choice and again no way to see anything to question there. If I were to start over (egads...) I might go that direction myself.

    To your other questions:

    Drop trunk: Can't go wrong with Russ's offering. I don't weld and I don't modify the frame, and so his kit worked very well for me. I wouldn't skip getting the extra space no matter what choice you make.
    Seat Heaters: CobraHeat is one manufacturer many, including me, have used. I've installed, wired and tested mine and so far I feel they're a quality piece, but others have more experience.
    Head Rests: You'll find lots of threads on seat choice and the relative importance of high back vs. low back seats. Many look at this as a vehicle which doesn't fit the safety profile of a daily driver no matter what you do: limited envelope of a small / low car, no advanced warning / sensor devices, no air bags, etc ... and the low back seat is just one example of among many. So, many end up preferring the looks and good use of limited space that comes with the FFR lowback seats. Others get high back or low back alternatives depending on their focus on safety or legroom. But ... you can find head rest options that tie into the rollbars, FWIW.

    That's the stuff I can help with, but I expect others will chime in. As you already know, you've got plenty of expertise happy to answer any questions you have right here on the forum. Cheers! -- John

    PS ... and since you put this note in the 'Build Threads' section, I'm assuming it's the first post in your build thread. Good for you. I'd recommend doing one ... every builder likes looking at the forum for ideas, and everyone contributes something. For a first time builder or for those with limited experience, there are helpful folks willing to point out anything that doesn't look right as you share your progress.
    Last edited by John Ibele; 07-19-2022 at 01:29 PM.
    MK4 #7838: IRS 3.55 TrueTrac T5z Dart 347
    The drawing is from ~7th grade, mid-1970s
    Meandering, leisurely build thread is here

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    Senior Member CaptB's Avatar
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    Forte's has seat heaters.
    FFR Roadster Delivered 9/16/21
    Forte 427 Fuel Injected with TKX Transmission
    Forte's Axle

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    Hello and welcome. Looks like you're off to a good start with a very well optioned roadster.

    I would recommend looking into a driveshaft loop (Forte sells one that fits the MKIV), or many other options (Summit, Jegs, etc), and also a SFI steel bellhousing. I believe Forte will cut them down to clear the frame rails (otherwise they hang below), or you can source separately and cut yourself with a metal bandsaw, angle grinder, etc.

    One other thing to note is you will have to modify the glovebox on the dash in order for the heater to fit, or locate the heater differently than factory five's default location.
    FFR MKIV 8309, FMS 306 Crate w/Edelbrock EFI, T5, 3.55 Three Link, Wilwood Brakes

  6. #5
    Senior Member 460.465USMC's Avatar
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    Welcome aboard, Junbug! Always fun to see another builder join the fun. You have a very similar build list to mine in terms of drivetrain, rear suspension, and brakes. I also bought my drivetrain (TKO600 at the time) from Forte, but bought my power steering from F5.

    I guess the silver lining for the long wait is you get to plan and change your mind a-plenty on options before your kit arrives. Congrats on your purchase!
    Chris Build Thread Index
    Complete kit delivered: 10/15/2020. First Start: 6/25/22. First Go-Kart: 8/14/22. Legal: 7/25/23.
    Coyote Gen3. TKO600 (0.64 OD). IRS w/3.55. PS. Wilwoods. Sway bars.
    This build is dedicated to my son, Benjamin.
    Build Thread

  7. #6
    Senior Member nucjd19's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chopper View Post
    Hello and welcome. Looks like you're off to a good start with a very well optioned roadster.

    I would recommend looking into a driveshaft loop (Forte sells one that fits the MKIV), or many other options (Summit, Jegs, etc), and also a SFI steel bellhousing. I believe Forte will cut them down to clear the frame rails (otherwise they hang below), or you can source separately and cut yourself with a metal bandsaw, angle grinder, etc.

    One other thing to note is you will have to modify the glovebox on the dash in order for the heater to fit, or locate the heater differently than factory five's default location.
    Agree about the driveshaft loop. I picked up a metco loop and installed on my rig. The idea of the driveshaft spinning right beside my lateral hip as well as the passenger unnerves me a bit. Really good folks here. I consider many my friends and they really want you to succeed.
    FFR MK4 Roadster (9945) complete kit, delivered 12/4/2020, First start and go kart 5/7/2021. Legal 8/14/2021, Paint finished 7/18/2022 (Viking Blue). 347BPE CI, TKO600, Moser 8.8 3link 3.55, Halibrand 17x9 17x10.5, power steering. Carbon Fiber Dash. Carbon Fiber trans tunnel, adjustable Kirkey Lowback Vintage seats, Vintage gauges, RT drop trunk mod, FFmetal drop battery mod and trans tunnel, Forte front sway bar. Forte mechanical throttle linkage, RT gas pedal. www.covespringsfarm.com

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    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Welcome and congratulations on your kit order. You're in for an excellent adventure. The build is a blast (at least it is for me...) and the final result isn't bad either. Not much to add for your configuration. Highly optioned and will be a very nice result. You questioned the power steering from Factory Five. For the Coyote, they sell the KRC setup made specifically for the Coyote. It's a high quality product. I've used it on a couple builds and have been very happy with it. Hopefully you've seen several posts where it's described to put the lowest rated flow valve on the pump. The default one that comes with it is a little overboosted for these. Nothing required from Forte. I haven't purchased power steering from him. But last I saw he was providing an OE style pump with an adapter plate. KRC is a better setup than that. Although admittedly more expensive. (What else is new.) I've used the Cobraheat seat heaters several times. Available direct or through multiple channels including Forte. Also assuming you've read enough Gen 3 Coyote builds to know it will need a custom tune once you're ready for daily driving. It will start and run on the stock tune. But won't be suitable beyond that. Good luck with your build and have fun.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

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    Senior Member Junbug's Avatar
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    edwardb- Thanks for the feedback and recommendations. I'll have to look into the KRC PS setup vs Forte's. Regarding the custom tune on Gen 3 Coyote builds is that just a function of the difference between stock settings and a tune more specific to a lighter/smaller car? I'll need to dig into other posts to read more about them so thanks for the tip-off. Regardless I'll stick with the EFI as I don't want to deal with carbs/tuning in the mountains with 3k-4k elevation changes!

  10. #9
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Junbug View Post
    edwardb- Thanks for the feedback and recommendations. I'll have to look into the KRC PS setup vs Forte's. Regarding the custom tune on Gen 3 Coyote builds is that just a function of the difference between stock settings and a tune more specific to a lighter/smaller car? I'll need to dig into other posts to read more about them so thanks for the tip-off. Regardless I'll stick with the EFI as I don't want to deal with carbs/tuning in the mountains with 3k-4k elevation changes!
    Confused a little by your response. You have "Coyote Power Steering Complete Kit" listed as part of your order from Factory Five. That is the KRC setup. You questioned whether needed w/ Mike Forte's Gen 3 Coyote. My response was to confirm you needed nothing from Forte for power steering since you picked the option from Factory Five. The Coyote crate motor comes without power steering. So Forte would leave it stock and you would install the setup from Factory Five (KRC) along with the power steering rack they provide as part of the option, and you're done.

    Your response about the Coyote and tuning is a little confusing too. The Coyote is an EFI engine out of the box. Actually has two systems. Fuel rail injection and direct injection. There's no option to run it without EFI. Well unless you get into crazy mods, replace the intake, etc. I'm sure that's not in your plan. Forte will deliver with the stock EFI setup. I assume you're using the Ford Performance control pack with the Coyote. By far the most common setup. It comes with a PCM calibrated by Ford Performance for a standard Mustang air box. There isn't room in these builds for that. Only a relatively small and simple 90 degree adapter, MAF tube, and air filter. As a result, the MAF calibration is way off and has to be adjusted in a custom tune. Additionally, for whatever reason, Ford's standard calibration also runs excessively rich. The engine will throw error codes (and run very poorly) until both of these are adjusted by a custom tune. Plus whatever else the tuner chooses to optimize. The lighter/smaller car isn't really a factor. At least not for the major issues I've described.

    By all means do as much research on these topics as you like. I will only add this is solid information based on actual experience with multiple builds including two with Coyotes. My current Gen 3 Coyote powered Coupe is awesome. After it was tuned and sorted out. (Build thread in my sig line below.) My experience has been repeated by multiple builders.
    Last edited by edwardb; 07-24-2022 at 07:50 PM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

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    Senior Member Junbug's Avatar
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    Thanks for clarifying edwardb! I misread your original message and now completely understand what you were saying. Thank you for clarifying and I really appreciate the details on why the Coyote will need a tune, very helpful. I actually just attended the FFR Roadster build class last weekend, which was very worthwhile.

  12. #11
    Papa's Avatar
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    Welcome! You've got a great build spec'd and will have a blast building the car. We've got a lot of builders in Colorado. What part of the state are you in? I'm near Parker.

    Dave
    My Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...ter-Build-9754
    (Most viewed Roadster build thread on this forum!)

    Delivered: 6/17/2017
    First Start: 12/30/2017
    Completed: 12/7/2019
    Legal: 1/30/2020

    Member of the Mile-Hi Cobra Club
    Dave's Cobra YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCbk...npK1UZHj4R-bYQ
    Agora 1:8 Scale Cobra Build: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...l-Build-Thread

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    Senior Member Junbug's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Papa View Post
    Welcome! You've got a great build spec'd and will have a blast building the car. We've got a lot of builders in Colorado. What part of the state are you in? I'm near Parker.

    Dave
    Dave,
    Thanks! I'm in Lafayette and looking forward to the build! Estimated ship date of 14 January so I'm keeping my fingers crossed. I'd love to either stop by and check out your build and pick your brain a bit or link up a local Cars and Coffee.

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    Papa's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Junbug View Post
    Dave,
    Thanks! I'm in Lafayette and looking forward to the build! Estimated ship date of 14 January so I'm keeping my fingers crossed. I'd love to either stop by and check out your build and pick your brain a bit or link up a local Cars and Coffee.
    I'm always eager to meet new builders and chat. I've done so at my place many times. PM me if you would like to work out a good time to come by.

    Dave
    My Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...ter-Build-9754
    (Most viewed Roadster build thread on this forum!)

    Delivered: 6/17/2017
    First Start: 12/30/2017
    Completed: 12/7/2019
    Legal: 1/30/2020

    Member of the Mile-Hi Cobra Club
    Dave's Cobra YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCbk...npK1UZHj4R-bYQ
    Agora 1:8 Scale Cobra Build: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...l-Build-Thread

  15. #14
    Senior Member Junbug's Avatar
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    So my Mk4 complete kit finally arrived 1/20/23! Considering the weather and snow covered roads/streets in CO, Eric from Stewart Transportation did an excellent and efficient job of delivering everything.

    Inventory, with the help of my son, went relatively quickly though there were a few components missing that I'm sure would have made it a bit more laborious. MIK included chassis wiring harness, rivet package, IRS fasteners, Coyote Fitment kit and the Roadster Fastener Pack, and about 25 other odds and ends. One of the roll bars had a scratch... is this something worth asking about?



    Once we completed the inventory, we took the doors and trunk off the body and lifted it to the garage ceiling via some rope/pulleys.

    And now she's naked and ready for us to start working with her!
    -Bryan
    Mk4 Roadster w/ IRS, Forte Gen 3 Coyote/TKX, Wilwood Brakes
    Build thread https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...oyote-TKX-EFI)
    Ordered: 6/27/22, Delivered: 1/20/23, First Start 10/16/2023

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    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Congrats on your delivery. Let the fun begin! Just a clarification on terms, which hopefully is the case.

    MIK = Missing in Kit. Meaning Factory Five checked off the item as shipped but is unaccounted for during your inventory. Or missing completely, e.g. should have been part of your kit delivery but unaccounted for anywhere. That's happened to me a few times in the past but was relatively rare. Seems to be more of an issue now with their new system. In either case, you need to report to FF as soon as possible as they would have no record of the missing items.

    POL = Parts Order List. Factory Five speak for your backorder list. Indicated by zero delivered on your inventory list and in the past anyway was a separate listing in all the paperwork provided at time of delivery. Factory Five has these in their system and will provide them as available. But still should be followed up as necessary. I'm guessing (hoping) the major items you list (chassis wiring harness, rivet package, IRS fasteners, Coyote Fitment kit and the Roadster Fastener Pack, and about 25 other odds and ends) are POL not MIK. That would be a lot of unaccounted for and missing items.

    Roll bar scratches, unfortunate. Could be touched up and probably unnoticeable. But I'd still report it and they should address it. Worst case, unlike chrome plating, powder coating can be somewhat easily stripped and redone. But hopefully doesn't come to that. Good luck with your build. Enjoy the journey, and the end result is worth the effort.
    Last edited by edwardb; 01-24-2023 at 12:00 PM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

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    Senior Member Junbug's Avatar
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    Thanks for clarifying EdwardB! 27 of the parts are POL and another 7 are MIK. Key parts MIK are the roadster fastener pack and accelerator pedal. The remaining POL are odds and ends fasteners and a side view mirror. Can’t wait to get started!
    -Bryan
    Mk4 Roadster w/ IRS, Forte Gen 3 Coyote/TKX, Wilwood Brakes
    Build thread https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...oyote-TKX-EFI)
    Ordered: 6/27/22, Delivered: 1/20/23, First Start 10/16/2023

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    Quote Originally Posted by Junbug View Post
    Thanks for clarifying EdwardB! 27 of the parts are POL and another 7 are MIK. Key parts MIK are the roadster fastener pack and accelerator pedal. The remaining POL are odds and ends fasteners and a side view mirror. Can’t wait to get started!
    The accelerator pedal would come with your Coyote - its part of the Controls Pack - M-6017-M50B GEN III COYOTE ECU
    MK4 Complete Kit #10315 / Coyote G3 / TKX / 427 HardTop
    Build Thread Production Date: 2/26/22, Registered 5/19/22, Graduated 3/1/2023

  19. #18
    Senior Member mmklaxer's Avatar
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    Such a great feeling when the kit arrives! Congrats!!

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    Senior Member danmas's Avatar
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    Hi! I am about 4 months behind you (May of 23) and I look forward to following your build. I am also right up the street in Mead. Pretty exciting day for you!

  21. #20
    Senior Member Junbug's Avatar
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    Made some more progress this week. Assembled the Wilwood rotors and hats with help from my son, as well as completed the saftey wire. The safety wire is tedious but not hard once you get the hang of it. Plus saftey wire pliers are fun to use!


    Installed the upper and lower control arms today as well. One question, for the lower control arms, the manual just says "use large shim washers provided to take up the extra space. I used two shim washers, on the drivers side, one on either side of the bushing, though I could only fit one shim on the passenger side. Is that OK?

    It was also challenging to tighten the upper control arm rear locknut (green arrow) as you couldn't fit a wrench or socket on the back (only on the drivers side). I used a tip from someone else on the forum and wedged a flat tip screwdriver in between the nut and the bolt. In an other post I asked a when to tighten and what torque the nuts on each end of the UCA (red arrows) should be, as I couldn't find that anywhere in the manual.

    We also drilled the F-panels for rivets and made a few minor adjustments to fit properly. I was thinking about getting the FFMetal F-Panels since I'll have 18" wheels, but have heard rubbing isn't really an issues since the updates made to the chassis/body for the 25th Anniversary builds. I understand the improvements that went into the 25th Anniversary model were implemented on all following builds. I'm open to hearing other opinions/thoughts as well, paticularly if you have hands/wheels on experience.
    Last edited by Junbug; 01-29-2023 at 04:27 PM.
    -Bryan
    Mk4 Roadster w/ IRS, Forte Gen 3 Coyote/TKX, Wilwood Brakes
    Build thread https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...oyote-TKX-EFI)
    Ordered: 6/27/22, Delivered: 1/20/23, First Start 10/16/2023

  22. #21
    Senior Member Junbug's Avatar
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    So we made a lot of progress in the last week or so. Installed the steering rack, drilled 95% of the DS, PS footboxes as well as drilled the front of the transmission tunnels. Finished torquing down the front suspension and spindle hub. Rented a monster torque wrench for the spindle hub nuts from Auto Zone. Great tool rental program as I didn't see the need to invest in a huge torque wrench. The loctite like orange/red stuff on the spindle hub nuts is apparently there to help. It seemed to really gum up the threads but everything tightened down nicely and left a trail of grey/green debris on the spindle threads after torquing down the big nut. Others also commented that these spindle hub nuts are a single use nut so once you tighten it up all the, if you subsequently loosen it or remove it you need to get another nut. Glad to get that tip before I torqued.
    We also installed our Wilwood front brake rotors and calipers. Pretty straight forward process. We used a digital caliper to estimate the thickness of the shims and after a few adjustments found stacking shims to about 2.15mm put the rotor right in the middle of our brake pads.



    Next step is to get all the aluminum panels and select steel brackets out for powder coat. In my rough estimating I calculate about 50 sq/ft of metal to get powder coated. I'm only PCing aluminum that's visible in the engine bay (not getting the trans tunnel/DS&PS under seat done) though I'm still working out whether I get the engine bay side of the front splash guards PC'ed or not.
    Last edited by Junbug; 02-05-2023 at 02:29 PM.
    -Bryan
    Mk4 Roadster w/ IRS, Forte Gen 3 Coyote/TKX, Wilwood Brakes
    Build thread https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...oyote-TKX-EFI)
    Ordered: 6/27/22, Delivered: 1/20/23, First Start 10/16/2023

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  24. #22
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    Good progress, Junbug.

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  26. #23
    Senior Member Junbug's Avatar
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    Also decided to trim the rear spindles as I had time and the inclination. Used a sawzall with a 14 tpi 6" blade. Took about 7-8 mins to cut through, but it was easier than using a hacksaw!
    Starting mount

    I shifted the whole drill press to the ground as it was vibrating around my benchtop. First one cut filed smooth (roughly).

    Second one cut, filed smooth (roughly) and a lot of shop vac useage to clean up all the dust!

    I also removed the metric lugs from the rear hubs. Not to difficult but I made sure to support the hub when knocking them out with a dead blow hammer. It sure is uncomfortable swinging a hammer at a brand new part! I just took my time and made sure to aim each blow. Plan to get some "donor" sacrificial lug nuts and use the greased washer method after putting the lug bolts in the freezer (or my Colorado garage) for a few days!
    -Bryan
    Mk4 Roadster w/ IRS, Forte Gen 3 Coyote/TKX, Wilwood Brakes
    Build thread https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...oyote-TKX-EFI)
    Ordered: 6/27/22, Delivered: 1/20/23, First Start 10/16/2023

  27. #24
    Senior Member Junbug's Avatar
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    We made some slow but steady progress on our build over the last week. Busy with work, travel and school, but we try to put in an hour or two every night, if not building/assembling then we're finalizing orders for other equipment.
    First bit of progress was finishing drilling all the cockpit aluminum. I highly recommend picking up some of the cobalt #30 bits from Aircraft Tool Supply. It was a night and day difference change from my stock dewalt drill bits. Once everything was drilled and fitted with Cleco's we pulled everything off to get a picture to help the powder coaters with estimates. Anticipate dropping the aluminum off this week or next.

    Next we worked on pulling the new lugs into the hubs. After reading numerous posts and searching many threads I thought I'd give it the old college try before investing in a new tool. After about 2 hours, I'd successfully pulled one lug into place and stripped another lug shaft using the oversize washer, deep well socket and a long ratchet. I then drove up the road to a local box store and purchased a Dewalt 1/2" impact drill that uses the same battery packs I have for all my other tools. It took me approximately 10 minutes to pull the remaining 8 lugs through without issue. Money/time well spent!

    Next, my son and I assembled the pedals and did a temporary fitting to mark holes to drill for the support bracket. We didn't start assembling the hydraulics yet as I don't want to have something break before we get our aluminum back from powder coat. I need the face of the DS footbox in place before I tighten up the 4 bolts to hold the pedal assembly in place as well as hold the upper steering column bearing collar.

    Likewise, we also assembled and installed the steering shaft and u-joints. That was relatively easy following along with the build manual. As many others have done we needed to put the upper collar bearing on the inside of the footbox to avoid the upper drive shaft from biding the upper most u-joint. We also discovered that when putting this bearing on the inside of the DS footbox, it interferes with the pedal assembly. Some quick work with the angle grinder on the bearing housing cleaned up the interference. They overlapped by about 1/4 of an inch. Additionally, I received some sage advice about taking my time and gently sanding, filing and polishing the upper drive shaft to ensure it slides into the D-shaft smoothly, about an inch past the divit for the second spring washer. Just enough resistance to be able to pull it apart and avoid binding. I just used 150 grit sand paper, 220 grit sand paper and a green scotch-brite pad. Great tip... when you insert the upper shaft into the lower d-shaft and it binds, point it at a bright light like its a hunting scope and you'll see light around it where it fits, and darkness where it binds. Just gently sand down the binding locations until the slide together with the amount of friction you're comfortable with.

    Lastly I've been messaging experts on the forum for advice and drafts of my fuel system build. I appreciate all their advice and candor. Below is our current plan.
    Pro-M hanger with the 3/8" feed and return 6AN fittings https://www.promracing.com/high-flow...-mustangs.html
    Walbro GSS340BX electric in tank fuel pump https://www.summitracing.com/parts/vpn-gss340bx
    Trick Flow fuel filter, 20' of Fragola PTFE stainless braided 3/8" fuel line, numerous Fragola 6AN fittings and an Aeromotive 13130 regulator.
    Ensuring I have all the right fittings in the right sex has been giving me headaches but youtube and experts here have been very helpful.
    And a nice pic of the frame without her lingerie. Disregard all the junk in her trunk...
    -Bryan
    Mk4 Roadster w/ IRS, Forte Gen 3 Coyote/TKX, Wilwood Brakes
    Build thread https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...oyote-TKX-EFI)
    Ordered: 6/27/22, Delivered: 1/20/23, First Start 10/16/2023

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  29. #25
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    Solid progress. After my rear brakes/e brake lines, doing steering - need to remember to do the sanding of the shaft. Gracias.

    j

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  31. #26
    Senior Member Junbug's Avatar
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    Busy last week or two with work and a long ski trip over Presidents Day weekend....

    But upon return this week I got a big surprise delivery from my friend Mike Forte.

    Once unpacked and unwrapped this motor/trans looks clean and amazing...


    We still have a lot to do before we put this in, but Mike was running a great deal at the end of 2022 and I thought having to look at this engine every time I went to work on the car I'd be motivated to keep working!
    Dropping aluminum off this weekend for powder coating, and if the weather holds I plan to run my brake lines. We've had highs in the single digits the last few days but this weekend promises to be 50 degrees!
    Started getting a trickle of POL parts from Factory Five... bolts, nuts and accessories. Still waiting for the IRS bolt kit but i got a FedEx delivery from FFR coming Saturday or Sunday that weighs 40 lbs, so I'm hoping its my wiring harness and a bunch of bolts for the IRS and IRS suspension!
    -Bryan
    Mk4 Roadster w/ IRS, Forte Gen 3 Coyote/TKX, Wilwood Brakes
    Build thread https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...oyote-TKX-EFI)
    Ordered: 6/27/22, Delivered: 1/20/23, First Start 10/16/2023

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  33. #27
    Senior Member 460.465USMC's Avatar
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    Congrats on the Gen3/TKX delivery, Bryan. I agree it will be motivating to eye-ball it when you're working on the build. I looked at mine for a while (long while!) before installing it.

    P.S. just in case you aren't aware, Forte sells a modified earlier version of the Coyote engine cover that looks better than the Gen3 flying saucer IMHO. Here's what it looks like on my motor. I'm planning to add some body color to it when I get the body painted.

    Chris Build Thread Index
    Complete kit delivered: 10/15/2020. First Start: 6/25/22. First Go-Kart: 8/14/22. Legal: 7/25/23.
    Coyote Gen3. TKO600 (0.64 OD). IRS w/3.55. PS. Wilwoods. Sway bars.
    This build is dedicated to my son, Benjamin.
    Build Thread

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  35. #28
    Senior Member Junbug's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 460.465USMC View Post
    Congrats on the Gen3/TKX delivery, Bryan. I agree it will be motivating to eye-ball it when you're working on the build. I looked at mine for a while (long while!) before installing it.

    P.S. just in case you aren't aware, Forte sells a modified earlier version of the Coyote engine cover that looks better than the Gen3 flying saucer IMHO. Here's what it looks like on my motor. I'm planning to add some body color to it when I get the body painted.

    Chris, Thanks for the tip... looks like i'll be spending a bit more money with Mike!
    -Bryan
    -Bryan
    Mk4 Roadster w/ IRS, Forte Gen 3 Coyote/TKX, Wilwood Brakes
    Build thread https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...oyote-TKX-EFI)
    Ordered: 6/27/22, Delivered: 1/20/23, First Start 10/16/2023

  36. #29
    Senior Member Junbug's Avatar
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    So today I got the front end hard brake lines installed... my first time using a tubing bender and first time installing hard brake lines... Pics below and please point out my errors/mistakes. Of note, the pedal box is only temporarily installed as I need to get my DS footbox aluminum PC'ed and all those bolts go through the black steel and aluminum for final tightening.
    My initial concerns were avoiding having to do any unions, so I made the best use of each 60" pre-fabbed line from FFR. I understand there is some alternate opinions on the brake lines going vertical at the master cylinder joint, but it seems 50/50 so I went with what the manual showed.

    All of the unions/joints are just set in place and not tightened... I didn't want to put any pressure on the brass fittings... yet. I made sure the hard line clears the steering shaft, I'm just hoping that installing the Coyote doesn't interfere with that DS line.

    Across the front was one of the easier bends...

    Passenger side hard line to flex line mount. The lines tend to get a bit scratched up when bending and fitting them through the frame.... does this matter? Is it best to coat/paint/seal the hard lines again before final installation?
    Also if you think I need to add additional cushioned brackets please let me know.

    Tomorrow is on to drilling the trunk and making the modifications for Russ's drop trunk. I don't have any of my rivets from FFR, or any of my IRS fasteners so I'm kind of stuck running lines and drilling what I can.
    Also I ordered my fuel system components and they should all arrive early next week, along with a mysterious 40lb box from FFR...maybe a large portion of my POL, or at least my IRS fasteners!
    -Bryan
    Mk4 Roadster w/ IRS, Forte Gen 3 Coyote/TKX, Wilwood Brakes
    Build thread https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...oyote-TKX-EFI)
    Ordered: 6/27/22, Delivered: 1/20/23, First Start 10/16/2023

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  38. #30
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    Not an error, but having the hard line higher than the master cylinder is an opportunity for air to occupy.
    Many have done as you and bleed the brakes successfully.
    My point, it will be better to run the line lower or parallel from the master cylinder, same as entering wheel cylinders.
    No need to have a coil of line higher than connection point to either location.
    Good fabrication!
    20th Anniversary Mk IV, A50XS Coyote, TKO 600, Trunk Drop Box, Trunk Battery Box, Cubby Hole, Seat Heaters, Radiator hanger and shroud.

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  40. #31
    Senior Member 460.465USMC's Avatar
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    Hi Bryan. Congrats on the brake lines. I, too, was a first timer and found it a pretty challenging task using the kit supplied lines. Way to go.

    Regarding your question about the brake line junction above the steering shaft, yes, it will likely be in the way when you stab in the Coyote. So, you may choose not to bleed the front lines until you have the motor in. Unless you want extra practice bleeding the fronts.
    Chris Build Thread Index
    Complete kit delivered: 10/15/2020. First Start: 6/25/22. First Go-Kart: 8/14/22. Legal: 7/25/23.
    Coyote Gen3. TKO600 (0.64 OD). IRS w/3.55. PS. Wilwoods. Sway bars.
    This build is dedicated to my son, Benjamin.
    Build Thread

  41. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by Junbug View Post
    So today I got the front end hard brake lines installed... my first time using a tubing bender and first time installing hard brake lines... Pics below and please point out my errors/mistakes. Of note, the pedal box is only temporarily installed as I need to get my DS footbox aluminum PC'ed and all those bolts go through the black steel and aluminum for final tightening.
    My initial concerns were avoiding having to do any unions, so I made the best use of each 60" pre-fabbed line from FFR. I understand there is some alternate opinions on the brake lines going vertical at the master cylinder joint, but it seems 50/50 so I went with what the manual showed.

    All of the unions/joints are just set in place and not tightened... I didn't want to put any pressure on the brass fittings... yet. I made sure the hard line clears the steering shaft, I'm just hoping that installing the Coyote doesn't interfere with that DS line.

    Across the front was one of the easier bends...

    Passenger side hard line to flex line mount. The lines tend to get a bit scratched up when bending and fitting them through the frame.... does this matter? Is it best to coat/paint/seal the hard lines again before final installation?
    Also if you think I need to add additional cushioned brackets please let me know.

    Tomorrow is on to drilling the trunk and making the modifications for Russ's drop trunk. I don't have any of my rivets from FFR, or any of my IRS fasteners so I'm kind of stuck running lines and drilling what I can.
    Also I ordered my fuel system components and they should all arrive early next week, along with a mysterious 40lb box from FFR...maybe a large portion of my POL, or at least my IRS fasteners!
    Looks purdry, Junbug. Trying to keep up with ya!

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  43. #33
    Senior Member Junbug's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 460.465USMC View Post
    Hi Bryan. Congrats on the brake lines. I, too, was a first timer and found it a pretty challenging task using the kit supplied lines. Way to go.

    Regarding your question about the brake line junction above the steering shaft, yes, it will likely be in the way when you stab in the Coyote. So, you may choose not to bleed the front lines until you have the motor in. Unless you want extra practice bleeding the fronts.
    Chris,
    I appreciate the insight and I’ll relook that end of the line or just wait to bleed the brakes until after I drop the engine in.
    -Bryan
    -Bryan
    Mk4 Roadster w/ IRS, Forte Gen 3 Coyote/TKX, Wilwood Brakes
    Build thread https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...oyote-TKX-EFI)
    Ordered: 6/27/22, Delivered: 1/20/23, First Start 10/16/2023

  44. #34
    Senior Member Junbug's Avatar
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    So I was traveling for work most of this week but received a number of shipments of parts while I was gone including a number of key POL items, but not all of them (rivets? really?). One of the most important ones at this point was the IRS fastener pack. So today I spent most of the day drilling and cleco'ing the trunk, drop trunk and remainder of the aft end aluminum. Then of course spending a bit of time cleaning up all the shavings. Once everything was cleco'ed in place I added the drop trunk and drilled an cleco'ed that in place. Learned a few lessons on the best way to use a jig saw to cut through aluminum in straight lines, but everything worked itself out without any issue.


    After cleanup and moving "most" of the aluminum panels to storage I prepared the frame for mounting the IRS center section tomorrow, as well as assembling the rear UCA, LCA and toe arms.

    I'll drop another update tomorrow after my son and I install the IRS center section as well as the rest of the IRS suspension. Still waiting on some POL spacers to install the rear shocks, but the rest of the parts are on hand.
    -Bryan
    Mk4 Roadster w/ IRS, Forte Gen 3 Coyote/TKX, Wilwood Brakes
    Build thread https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...oyote-TKX-EFI)
    Ordered: 6/27/22, Delivered: 1/20/23, First Start 10/16/2023

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  46. #35
    Senior Member Junbug's Avatar
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    So we had a productive day today. Drilled out the IRS center section, both spindles and prepared everything for install. IRS center section went in pretty smoothly with just my son and I wrestling it together. I'd say it took us about 15-20 min of install time after looking at it and strategizing for probably the same amount of time. We lifted it up vertically and put it on our floor jack. We then wrapped a singe tie down strap around the front mounts and over the 1" & 2" trunk support steel bars. As we started to slowly jack it up we also leaned it forward into the trans tunnel area and adjusted the tie down strap to take the weight. Once the rear mounts cleared the rear bushings, we leveled it out and re-positioned the jack under the center of the center section and slowly started to lower it using the tie down strap to gently lower the front. Once the front mounts were aligned with the front bushings, we inserted the front bolts with little problem (a few taps from a rubber mallet). Next we continued to lower the rear until the rear mounts were aligned with the rear bushings. We then similarly gently tapped the bolts until they we could start the threads. Then went to the front and finger tightened the locking nuts and torqued everything to spec.

    Next we moved on to the rear suspension. Toe arms, lower control arm and upper control arms. Everything went in smoothly and only required a few gentle rubber mallet taps to seat through the far side of the frame mounts. I used a zip tie to secure the toe arm to the UCA as I don't want it dragging on the garage floor as I'm moving the chassis around.
    Drivers Side

    Passenger Side

    That 5/8" "chase" bit is no joke. I managed to secure the spindle/hub assembly to my tabletop drill press, adjusted to the lowest speed to drill out the spindle per the manual. There was no way the center section would fit on my tabletop drill press (believe me I tried) so I had to use my hand drill to slooowwwwly, drill out the center section front mounts. That took about twice as long as it took to mount the center section! And I'm sure my wrist will be sore for a few days as even drilling very slowly, it would catch and kick back.

    Also, the four bolts securing the hub to the spindle assembly were quite a challenge to get torqued down to spec. There isn't really a good way to secure the hub/spindle assembly in a vise that can handle the 98 fl/lbs of torque needed. I managed to get all 8 bolts torqued to spec after trying a few ways to secure the spindle in a vise so I could grab one of the spindle arms and push/pull the opposite direction of my torque wrench. Other option suggested was to mount the spindle/hub assembly to the rear suspension, torque everything then take it back off to insert the CV axles. I'd hit my point of diminishing returns by that time and called it for the day.
    Tasks for this week are to install the CV axles, mount the spindle/hub assemblies mount the rear brakes, install rear hard lines (more challenging at this point with the center section in, but oh well). I also received my fuel system, lines, fittings and pump so there is plenty to do there to keep me busy on weeknights.
    -Bryan
    Mk4 Roadster w/ IRS, Forte Gen 3 Coyote/TKX, Wilwood Brakes
    Build thread https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...oyote-TKX-EFI)
    Ordered: 6/27/22, Delivered: 1/20/23, First Start 10/16/2023

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  48. #36
    Senior Member Junbug's Avatar
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    So these showed up this week! Getting excited to continue making progress! Custom order from Forgestar with the exact spec's from the 25th Anniversary edition 18" wheels. Forgestar was great and made everything very easy and straightforward. Love how they glow in the sunshine and are dark in the shade.


    -Bryan
    Mk4 Roadster w/ IRS, Forte Gen 3 Coyote/TKX, Wilwood Brakes
    Build thread https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...oyote-TKX-EFI)
    Ordered: 6/27/22, Delivered: 1/20/23, First Start 10/16/2023

  49. #37
    Senior Member Junbug's Avatar
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    Steady progress this weekend. Started with flattening out the bends in the fuel tank and dry fitting the fuel pump hanger as well as the fuel level sending unit. No issues there and helpful advice from the forum! Next we started by inserting the CV axles and then mounting the spindles to the IRS suspension components. CV axles went in without much fuss. Just had to make sure they were pressed in place, straight and a few blows to the CV Axle nut and they tapped right in. I just kept an eye on how far they were in and once I could see the retention clip was depressed I could let off and just tap the rest of the way in. A quick tug confirmed they were seated in place. Bolting up the rest of the IRS suspension parts to the spindles was relatively straight forward. A few of the suspension pieces needed to be stretched a bit, but a 5' long 1/2" threaded rod with a couple of nuts allowed me to stretch the joints open enough. Once the bolts/nuts tightened up to torque everything fit as expected.


    Next my son and I fit, adjusted and installed the rear brake rotors, calipers and parking brakes. This was actually pretty relaxing as everything fit well, and taking everything on and off to add shims really gets your hands on the gear and allows you to get to know how everything works. Once done we torqued everything to spec, added loc-tite where required and admired the final product.


    Next we attacked doing a dry run on installing the fuel tank. Once I understood that I needed to lift the tank into place (with a floor jack) before running the hanger straps around the tank it went in much easier. Many others on the forum have mentioned the need to flatten out the factory bends in the tank in order for it to sit right. I didn't understand the need, but followed the guidance regardless. Upon using my floor jack to lift the tank into place, it all became quickly evident. The 3/4" inch down-tubes that you install the plastic cushions into to keep the metal tank from touching the metal frame are precisely where the now "flattened" sections of the tank rest. The hanger straps won't reach their bolts unless you flatten out those bends in the tank. I didn't need to "adjust" either of my 1" down-tubes as everything fit nicely as is.

    Still waiting for my cockpit aluminum to come back from powder coating. I also dropped my headers off to get ceramic coating this week though I won't need them for quite some time. I skipped getting my exhaust pipes ceramic coated as I haven't decided if I stick with the Factory Five standard exhaust pipes or switch to the Gas-N "quieter" pipes. I'll see how the FFR pipes sound and then make may decision before I take the body for paint.

    Next major step is fuel line routing and finishing the rear hard brake lines.... then on to wiring!
    -Bryan
    Mk4 Roadster w/ IRS, Forte Gen 3 Coyote/TKX, Wilwood Brakes
    Build thread https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...oyote-TKX-EFI)
    Ordered: 6/27/22, Delivered: 1/20/23, First Start 10/16/2023

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  51. #38
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    Nice progress Bryan. Looks great!

    One tip - if you haven't heard of the "Kleiner mod" yet, you may want to look into it. Here's one post about it, but several folks have written about it over the years. It's basically adding 7/16-14 couplers where the factory mounts on the rear of the car would normally go. This makes final body install infinitely easier later on.
    MkIV Roadster build: Gen 2 Coyote, IRS, TKO600. Ordered 10/24/18. Delivered 1/29/19. Engine installed 8/8/21. First start 9/12/21. First go-kart 9/17/21. Off to paint 4/11/22. Back from paint 12/30/22. Build thread here.

  52. #39
    Senior Member Junbug's Avatar
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    Relatively slow day on physical progress, but a lot going on in the background getting ready for future assembly. I finished bending and installing the rear hard brake line today. Went in a bit easier than I thought. There was a lot of second guessing and estimating but once I decided on the location of the hard-to-flexible tab locations it went quick. Just waiting for my rivet package from FFR before I start putting together the DS footbox, which will then allow me to finish the hard line to the rear.

    Also spent a lot of time ordering additional components and mapping out what comes next. I've also started about 5-6 small projects and haven't finished any of them (adding seat heaters, fuel pump installation into fuel pump hanger, SS flexible PTFE fuel lines and fittings, fuel pressure regulator, trunk struts mods to the cubby wall, mapping out my CF dash layout) and ordering a bunch of parts to help fabricate components (Kleiner trunk mod, hydraulic reservoir bracket, seat spacers & sliders).
    -Bryan
    Mk4 Roadster w/ IRS, Forte Gen 3 Coyote/TKX, Wilwood Brakes
    Build thread https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...oyote-TKX-EFI)
    Ordered: 6/27/22, Delivered: 1/20/23, First Start 10/16/2023

  53. #40
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    Hey Bryan. FWIW - I opted to use Summit "ultimate rivets" on my build instead of the FFR-provided rivets. They have a larger grip range and they also have a version that has a larger head and they're available in colors. There's nothing wrong with the kit rivets - I'm just mentioning this in case you're getting antsy and want to move forward with riveting panels, they're worth a look.

    These are the ones I used:

    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-abs4246lurr1

    There's also a version with a smaller head, as well as 3/16" long and short rivets.
    MkIV Roadster build: Gen 2 Coyote, IRS, TKO600. Ordered 10/24/18. Delivered 1/29/19. Engine installed 8/8/21. First start 9/12/21. First go-kart 9/17/21. Off to paint 4/11/22. Back from paint 12/30/22. Build thread here.

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