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Thread: So it begins.......

  1. #281
    BTW ....love that your build is coming along. I've been gone a while...mother passed among other life things.
    Good news is that I just poured the concrete for a new shop area yesterday. Going to be wiring and insulating the shop next weekend. Hope to have the shop complete before then end of the month.
    The GTM should soon have a dedicated area now to get some much needed attention.

    Keep up the good work Brent ....I'm learning a lot!

    -Rick

  2. #282
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    Rick,

    I can't wait to see pics and follow your build, its not too early to send pics of the garage! thats part of the build too!

  3. #283
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    So here's yet another issue with what you would think would be a very straight forward part of the build........

    I wanted to put a few gallons of gas in the car and now that the body is on I was going to temporarily hook up the gas cap to the fuel tanks. There's a short black tube with two 90 degree bends that connects the two pieces. Well the black tube is flared at one end, the end that connects to the gas cap. The instructions say to cut the flared portion off and then simply attach it to the gas cap with a hose clamp .......seems easy enough. After you do that (for me at least) the black tube is now too short to connect to the gas cap!!! Anyone else have this issue or use a different tubing to connect the two?!

  4. #284
    The manual is full issues. You need to physically check each new part of your build as you go. If you follow that manual all the time you'll have problems.

  5. #285
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    your point Jason has been proven time and time again, you'd think I would've learned by now lol

  6. #286
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    anyone have a fix for that tube from the cap to the fuel can? or run across this problem?

  7. #287
    I’m obviously nowhere near this far along, but I am finding myself doing a “sanity” check comparing what the manual is telling me to do vs. what I’m actually going to do at every step. It just sucks that something that supposedly was revised this year, or at least that’s what the cover states, is still full of garbage.

  8. #288
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    Shoeless,

    I guess I'm just surprised I haven't heard of that being an issue before, although the manual is lacking the forum makes up for it! I wouldn't have ordered the kit if it weren't for this forum. I've tried to read every single thread on both forums and I've looked through all the weebly build sites I could find and usually I have a heads up that something is going to be a problem, I just haven't heard of this one yet.... or didn't remember reading it. Really, I don't remember being this frustrated with the kit during the go kart stage. It really seems to be the body portion that is lacking so much in detailed instructions and lacking in quality products.

  9. #289
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    Think about all the fixes that Shane at Vraptor Speedworks has identified and provided fixes for! If it wasn't for him the list would be so much longer. Maybe the go kart stage was that much smoother because I ordered almost every one of his "fixes".

  10. #290
    Quote Originally Posted by tucker298 View Post
    Think about all the fixes that Shane at Vraptor Speedworks has identified and provided fixes for! If it wasn't for him the list would be so much longer. Maybe the go kart stage was that much smoother because I ordered almost every one of his "fixes".
    Yea I hear ya on that. I just landed in CT for business and should have my list of Shane fixes set by the time I fly home.

    I do have a question. The sheetmetal piece on the passenger side in the engine compartment that has the cutout for the engine computer, did you mount yours there or cover it up somehow? I remember you saying you got a custom harness made, just can’t remember computer wise. I’m still dead set on a different EMS so I may need to cover this up.

  11. #291
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    if i remember right that cut out is actually for the fuse panel, I covered it it up with another piece of sheet metal and riveted it on, thats where I put one of the infinity box modules ( the infinity system doesn't require the C5 fuse panel). The computer has a bracket welded to the upper frame but thats fitted for the LS1 computer, Shane sells and adapter plate that allows you to mount the LS3 computer there, which is what I did.

  12. #292
    Perfect, thanks for that. Shane said he could make me some custom pieces to mount my AEM Infinity components, just need to get them and give him the dimensions.

    I could use the belly pan sheet metal to close off this hole. I’m kind of on the fence about going with the louvered belly pans. Not that I’m planning on driving the car in the rain, I do live in south FL, and it’s not always avoidable. But then again, it gets hot as hell down here and need to get the hot air out of the car.

  13. #293
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    so enough talking and lets get on with some updates ! so the manual pretty much says slap the hood latches on and go, I'll expound on that a little bit because as of now its easy to see even when the manual gives directions I'm a little apprehensive. The latches' holes are slotted so where ever you decide to put the latches there will be play to be abel to adjust the latch up or down to get the hood to close at the right spot. I did use a little trick I saw on youtube that seems to apply here, I installed the latch and then set the striker in the latch, I then put tooth paste on the back of the striker and closed the hood. The first time I closed the hood there were no marks on the hood so i loosened the latch and brought it up slightly and repeated the process until there was toothpaste on the hood. The toothpaste made a perfect impression of where the striker should go and then I just released the striker from the latch, lined up the striker to the toothpaste outline and held the striker in place while I drilled the holes for the rivets. worked perfectly. Both sides were straight forward and no surprises on this one lol. I still need to route the cables and attach the release handle so thats for tomorrow!
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by tucker298; 11-13-2017 at 11:29 PM.

  14. #294
    Senior Member Presto51's Avatar
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    Nicely done on the hood latches. Now your starting to think like a Hot Rodder/fabricator
    "May you be in heaven a full half hour before the Devil knows you're dead"

  15. #295
    Senior Member The Stig's Avatar
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    Hi Buddy.

    It's been a while... I've been following along quietly. I'm really interested in where you take your GTM build. I know that when you're done you're going to love it.

    Have fun with the build as much as possible. It gets tough. Obstacles keep popping up. Especially for first time builders. But just try to remind yourself why you bought the kit in the first place.

    When I met you at the Charlotte Autofair car show in April, I knew that yours was one that would be fun to watch. It was great to meet you and your family, and spend some time talking cars.

    That part of the car show was fun...

    The Build manual was written by a hand full of people at Factory Five, who have A LOT of experience building these cars. As such, there are some things that may have been glossed over because they just didn't think it was a big deal. And to them, it probably wasn't. I don't think it was intentional. I think they assumed that the builders would have the knowledge to bridge the potential knowledge gaps.

    But, what I learned was that they are very happy to talk you through issues, and help you get through it. Factory Five is eager to help you if they can. They are good people and want you see you succeed in your build.

    Take care, and enjoy!

    Mike
    The Stig

    Some say, that I only know two facts about ducks, (both being wrong); and that if I could be bothered, I could solve the "da Vinci Code" in 47 seconds...
    All I know is that I'm called "The Stig".
    GTM #0081

  16. #296
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    Thanks Mike!

    Some of it was just venting and most of it was to let future buyers be absolutely clear what they are getting into. Good to see you still checking in!

    Made some progress tonight with the rear hatch, got the latch/striker plate and Shane's hatch props installed, I'm convinced I'm going to need to put a support piece for the rear portion of the body where the latch mounts for the rear hatch. There's just too much movement there for my liking. As well as, it makes the body pieces match up nicer with that rear body piece lifted just an 1/8th of an inch and the rear hatch closes so much smoother. So I have an idea for a bracket that will bolt above the rear transmission cage and angle forward and up to the back of the fiberglass part that the latch is bolted to. Will post pics of it soon.

    Didn't spend much time problem shooting this but the hatch props from Shane aren't locking into place and unlocking by just bringing them to full extension. I tried changing the holes that they were mounted to the see if a slight change of angle was the solution but it didn't help, anyone experience that or know a trick to fix them so they stay open or close without me having to reach in and manipulate them?
    Last edited by tucker298; 11-19-2017 at 10:36 PM.

  17. #297
    On the hatch props, you do have to reach in and pull them to release them or push them to lock. That is the way they are designed to work.

    As for the rear latch, the bracket you describe to support the latch area is included with the kit. If you don't have it, then FFR screwed up and didn't ship it with your kit.
    Shane Vacek
    VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC
    www.vraptorspeedworks.com
    Turn-key GTM, SL-C & Ultima GTR Built to Your Specs!
    Offering a full line of GTM Upgrades and Custom Parts

  18. #298
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    I did not get the rear hatch brace in my kit either. I had to call and have them ship it to me.

  19. #299
    I just did a quick look in my boxes and I believe the below picture is the bracket you are looking for. It should be in Box 3D if you do have it.


  20. #300
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    No I didn't get that! Well that makes things easier, I wondered why no one else has brought that up before lol and I didn't see in the manual of them talking about that piece but I haven't been following the manual really closely so it could be in there and not have seen it. I'll go look through the manual now and see if its in there and how it gets installed.

    Thanks for the input Shane, its NO problem at all doing that and would gladly do that over those gas struts!

  21. #301
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    Well once again I'm not impressed with the manual ............... yes it's in there (barely) once again this is a great manual for someone who already knows what all the parts are and what the next step is. Its in a diagram on page 462 but can easily be mistaken for the fiberglass portion that drops down that the latch bolts to. theres no picture of them installing the part like in the rest of the manual, and it never talks about the other end of the latch support? the top end goes behind that fiberglass portion that the latch gets bolted on but how does the bottom part get attached, or does it?!

  22. #302
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    I used rivnuts and 1/4-20 bolts to attach the bottom to the frame/trans mount.

    -Michael
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    GTM #327, LS3, G50/20, Kooks, AC, Ron's Tanks, Crash's 4-port HCV, Shane's Bolts & Plenum & etc., plus a lot of other stuff. Finished November 2013.

    Not-up-to-date Build Site: http://rumrunnergtm.weebly.com

  23. #303
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    thanks Mike!

    Thats what I figured, hopefully I can get a drill underneath that back body area to be able to drill a hole on top of that frame\trans mount to install a pair of rivetnuts.

  24. #304
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    so the latch debacle is over lol here is the latch support installed with pics, what I believe the manual should've done but as always this forum will fill the void of information. Heres is a better pic of the latch support, not sure anyone that doesn't know what it is could recognize it by the drawing in the manual (Thanks Shoeless for the pic!)

    The next thing to consider that since the body is on and you have to drill two holes into the top of the transaxle cage for the base of the latch support there isn't a whole lot of room and ordering a short/stubby drill bit just for this is ideal!

    The pics explain the rest and for the guys behind me, there you go!
    Attached Images Attached Images

  25. #305
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    Tonight I started to wrap my mind around the door windows...... I've been dreading this lol. I at least got them roughly installed into both sides, I'm sure like the doors its just going to take a lot of moving them around until you find what works. I put one side in and something didn't seem right, I forgot to take out the welded in bolts on the top of the track posts! I vaguely remember the manual talking about that earlier and was able to find the part that talked about it. BUT my question is this. The doors don't want to close because the bottom of the post still have long bolts and one of them hits the door when you try to close it. I didn't see anywhere in the manual that addresses any change to the bottom of the posts? Just hit the excess with a grinder?

    Also the big difference from adjusting the doors to adjusting the windows is this, the doors you can adjust a lot of different points with just how the hinges and latches attachment points, it seems like if the holes you drilled for the top posts are wrong you have to keep drilling new wholes to adjust them .... not ideal. BUT thats my initial assessment, also it looks like the passenger side front window track is already hitting the frame and might need to be bent/curved to get around it.... I'll let you know how it works out as I continue to struggle with them lol, I'll do my best to document everything and I'll post plenty of pics

    Luckily there are a lot of videos and documentation of the windows being installed but almost all of them have the window motors being altered or new mounts fabbed up. I know the window won't roll all the way down but I'm not worried about just a little glass showing, as long as it rolls down far enough to get the drive through food inside the door haha.
    Last edited by tucker298; 11-26-2017 at 10:40 PM.

  26. #306
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    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0l-37uPnFvI&t=8s

    GREAT youtube video but not a lot of views so I thought I'd post it to make sure people can find a good window video

  27. #307
    The windows......you do NOT want to "re-curve" the window tracks. It won't work. The very first thing we do when we start assembling the doors is to cut the steel door frame in half. Right where the main weldment at the front of the door ends that the door hinges bolt to.....cut both square tubes off right where the gusset ends. Install the hinge part of the door frame just as the manual states. The latch....get it positioned perfectly BEFORE you start cutting or drilling any holes.....I've outlined this process on here before.....in short, grind/sand the door edges so that the door JUST FITS into the body opening with zero clearance at the front and back of the door. Drill an 1/8" hole thru the fiberglass centered perfectly in the chassis striker slot. Set the door in place and position it EXACTLY where you want it. Not close to where you want it.....exactly where you want it so that all of the body lines line up and the door is flush with the body. Then reach thru from the rear wheel well area with a pick or long 1/8" drill bit and make sure you keep the pick or bit completely square to the striker and poke thru the 1/8" hole to mark that location on the door. THAT is the exact center of the latch when the latch is closed.....so cut your hole and position your latch so it ends up in that exact position.

    Once you have the latch installed and the hinge end installed, you can go back and put the steel door frame in that you cut in half. You will have to use the inner door panel to figure out how far inboard you can position the steel door frame. You want it as close to the door panel as possible. THIS is what is going to give you the clearance you need for your window regulator/window clamps to clear the door frame. We do this part with the door just laying out flat on a body stand. Keep stacking shims under the door frame and test fitting the door panel until we have it as high as we can get it and still have the door panel fit. The ends of the tubes should be able to be positioned so that they line up with and at least make contact with the cut ends of the tubes on the hinge weldment. Tack weld the tubes together and then you will have to cut some small chunks of steel to use as gussets to reinforce the joints an beef them back up. You don't want to bridge your gussets too far back on the tubes, or you will defeat the purpose and the window regulator will hit the gussets that you're welding in.
    Shane Vacek
    VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC
    www.vraptorspeedworks.com
    Turn-key GTM, SL-C & Ultima GTR Built to Your Specs!
    Offering a full line of GTM Upgrades and Custom Parts

  28. #308

  29. #309
    I'm sure others will chime in, but I think you will be much happier with modding the door so that the windows roll all the way down.
    MK3.1 2004 Mach 1 donor.
    GTM #304 LPE 525hp LS3

  30. #310
    Quote Originally Posted by beeman View Post
    I'm sure others will chime in, but I think you will be much happier with modding the door so that the windows roll all the way down.
    I agree, it screams kit car. I'd also upgrade the seal for the door/body and door/door glass. They are super cheap and (LOOK SUPER CHEAP) and don't seal very well. The money and time to get the details right will be worth it, and it'll show in the resale value as well if you ever want or need to sell it.

  31. #311
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    you guys are probably right, I'll see what i can do!

  32. #312
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    on a separate note came across this GTM for sale, I feel like I've seen most GTM's via this forum or with google searches in the past and yet every now and again I'll see one for sale and think to myself "where did that one come from" lol
    https://classics.autotrader.com/clas.../gtm/100819833

  33. #313
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    and this one is a nicely built GTM! They took a lot of pics through the build process which is always cool.

    http://www.classicgaragellc.com/Fact...TM-Thymon-Van/

  34. #314
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    BTW, thanks a lot for chiming in on the windows Shane. Sorry you had to put that out again but unfortunately it's one of those things you should just copy and paste every time it comes up lol. I'm always glad when you give input on my thread because I know its proven advice from all of your builds.
    Last edited by tucker298; 12-01-2017 at 04:46 PM.

  35. #315
    I don't think I've ever seen that second car, looks great, I really like the wheels.

    MK3.1 2004 Mach 1 donor.
    GTM #304 LPE 525hp LS3

  36. #316
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    one of my window motors did not have the 2 wire plug with a pig tail of a blue and brown wires. I googled it and can only find a whole power window harness? Does anyone know if I can just get the the 2 wire plug with pig tail that goes into the window motor?

  37. #317
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    well here's a post thats long over due, first off let me thank Ron for coming down and enduring the nightmare known as windows on the GTM, for the life of me I don't know why he would willingly subject himself to such torture lol but I sure am glad he did, I couldn't have it without him, he also give me my first lessons on fiberglass and body filler to which I will always be grateful.

  38. #318
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    during Ron's visit we tackled a few things but the first I'll complain about..... ummmmm I mean talk about are the windows. Sigh, where do I begin. Well let me start with this, we fidgeted and fidgeted with the window tracks to get them to line the window up perfectly with the window opening when it was all the way up. Let me save yourself hours of frustration, just accept that the window will NOT EVER magically roll up and sit nicely in the window opening, the curve of the window doesn't even match the curve of the body sooooo just get the window close and get to cutting and glassing. I'd say start with the pillar thats attached to the door, we taped the smaller glass window against the body and just cut the pillar and glassed it in flush with the glass. Now that the pillar is where it should be cut the lip on the pillar and the lip on the body that holds the window seals and tape them in place where they need to be and fiberglass. This will get you 90 percent to where the window seals need to be, after that just add more fiber glass to places that might need to raise the seals at certain spots and you can shave down some high spots if the seal has too much pressure. With this attitude towards the windows I could've gotten them done in half the time!

    IMG_2876.jpg


    IMG_2870.jpg

  39. #319
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    Now there is a little more to the passenger side door of course. The window track is curved wrong once its in place and there's NOTHING you can do to make it work as it comes. When you initially place the window tracks in and adjust them as much as you can and roll the window up the window wants to dive into the car! The angle is WAY to steep and you quickly realize something drastic must happen.

    IMG_2872.jpg

    So you can either cut the window frame or do what I did (which Shane will be shaking his head about) which is bend the window track to less of an angle. Now there are good ways to do this and there's the way we did it at midnight after 14 hours of work, (stop reading right now if redneck engineering on a supercar is more than you can stomach) I placed the window tracks curved side up and measured how far the ends come off the ground, I then places one foot on one end of the track and placed my other foot on the other end of the track and it took my whole body weight to feel movement. I remeasured the distance the curved ends were to the ground and it was clear the track was now flatter. I did the same the to other track, trying to match the distance the ends were from the ground in an attempt to give both tracks the same angle. We put them back in and it worked!

  40. #320
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    Now there was still the bolt issue with the bolt head of the window holder hitting the door frame, I just grinded down the head of the bolt until it cleared. Also the windows still do not roll all the way down but I think I know what we need to do to remedy that, the window holder is hitting the window motor, just barely and also hitting the bottom of the door itself, just like in DIY's videos. I'll do what he did and trim the plastic body on the window motor and notch out the piece on the door that the window holder is hitting. To be clear I have not done this yet, but it worked for him and its looking like it will also work for me.

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