FormaCars

Visit our community sponsor

Thanks Thanks:  1
Likes Likes:  4
Page 9 of 11 FirstFirst ... 7891011 LastLast
Results 321 to 360 of 436

Thread: So it begins.......

  1. #321
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Southern Pines, NC
    Posts
    356
    Post Thanks / Like
    UPDATE, I did call Factory Five about this and they said I didn't have the most current door frames with my SN 436, and they sent me the newer ones that are suppose to be more curved to give better clearance so you don't have to bend your tracks, I haven't unpacked them yet and compared but I wanted to at least share that so you can make sure your at least working with the most up to date door frames.

  2. #322
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Southern Pines, NC
    Posts
    356
    Post Thanks / Like
    When I called on the door frames, I also informed them that, incase they didn't know, the rear hatch glass is too big for the body! Dan at Factory Five assured me that it is a tight fit and just to trim the body back a bit and the window will fit..........so I tried that. Me and Ron made our marks on the body and took the glass on and off about 10 times because i knew the didn't have a lot of body to work with and kept taking just a little off at a time. We eventually blew right through the body, it wasn't even close. Heres some pics to show you how far off it is, the main problem was at the bottom corner of each side.
    IMG_2886.jpg
    IMG_2887.jpg

    and here are the pics of how much body needed to be sanded back to allow the glass to fit

    IMG_2890.jpg
    IMG_2891.jpg
    Last edited by tucker298; 12-25-2017 at 11:55 PM.

  3. #323
    LCD Gauges's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Toronto, Ontario
    Posts
    1,545
    Post Thanks / Like
    Blog Entries
    3
    It scares me to read these window updates. It's the next thing to attack on my car and I've been
    putting it off due to various reasons.

    The more I read, the more I want to contract it out! Glad to see it's coming along for you.

    FYI: I'll have some more updates for your system in the morning.
    Custom LCD Gauges , Data Loggers, Control Touch Screens
    www.LCDdash.com \\ 647-522-9953 \\ Voice & Text
    Proud new owner of GTM Gen 1., #105 - 08/27/11
    LQ9 Powered, G96.00 6 speed transaxle

  4. #324
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Southern Pines, NC
    Posts
    356
    Post Thanks / Like
    Again like the windows we could've saved ourselves some time by just accepting it was way off and go right to cutting and glassing. To remedy this problem we drew a line we knew would give us enough and even a little more because we couldn't chance going through this process and being wrong, knowing we could add body filler later if the cut was too big. So the line was drawn and the cut was made. With a new gaping hole in the body that was several feet long and almost and inch wide the problem solving began on the best way to glass this, We ended up just using painters tape, the tape was easily wider then the hole and we were able to put a curve to the tape rather than taping it taught which would have caused the tape the have a tight angle. We did several layers of just resin on the tape to harden the tape so we had something to work on when we laid the fiber glass down. This technique worked like a charm.

    these are the pics of just the tape before resin sitting in its place
    IMG_2892.jpg
    IMG_2893.jpg

    and here they are glassed over
    IMG_2894.jpg
    IMG_2895.jpg

    now we just had to ad some filler to get the gaps right!
    IMG_2905.jpg
    IMG_2906.jpg

  5. #325
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Southern Pines, NC
    Posts
    356
    Post Thanks / Like
    now some of the red from the hatch was showing on the inside of the window, so I thought, easy enough, I'll just trim it back so it doesnt show from under the glass, well even that can be frustrating because when I trimmed it back I blew a hole on both sides of that as well, no big deal I just filled it but still .... why?! lol

    IMG_2901.jpg
    IMG_2902.jpg

  6. #326
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Southern Pines, NC
    Posts
    356
    Post Thanks / Like
    even got around to getting the vents in the hood! this took a little longer than I thought because i hadn't put a lot of thought into it but theres a lot of cutting to do on the vents to open up the holes to go into the hood and of course some cutting to get them to sit in the hood, and they still didn't sit very well on the hood so i needed some weight to keep them flush but it wasn't too bad

    IMG_2883.jpg

  7. #327
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Southern Pines, NC
    Posts
    356
    Post Thanks / Like
    all in all it was a battle! but I had someone there to listen to my complaints and help me through. I feel like we got ALOT of the heavy lifting done on the body and I couldn't have done it without Ron! After a week like that, you make more than just a super car, you make a life long friend... thanks Ron!

    IMG_2909.jpg
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by tucker298; 12-26-2017 at 12:21 AM.

  8. #328
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Southern Pines, NC
    Posts
    356
    Post Thanks / Like
    I'll never know why it flips my pictures when I upload them lol

  9. #329
    Banned
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Posts
    669
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by tucker298 View Post
    When I called on the door frames, I also informed them that, incase they didn't know, the rear hatch glass is too big for the body! Dan at Factory Five assured me that it is a tight fit and just to trim the body back a bit and the window will fit..........so I tried that. Me and Ron made our marks on the body and took the glass on and off about 10 times because i knew the didn't have a lot of body to work with and kept taking just a little off at a time. We eventually blew right through the body, it wasn't even close. Heres some pics to show you how far off it is, the main problem was at the bottom corner of each side.
    IMG_2886.jpg
    IMG_2887.jpg

    and here are the pics of how much body needed to be sanded back to allow the glass to fit

    IMG_2890.jpg
    IMG_2891.jpg
    Man, if only someone made an affordable GTM Hatch Glass Replacement Kit that avoids all that bs fiberglass work, matched the shape of the roofline, vented the hot air and weighed half of what the FFR supplied glass does! That would have saved a ton of work, and looked better! Sorry dude, couldn't help myself. You see what I was talking about now though right!?2011-Factory-Five-GTM_386131_low_res_zpsh18lmv4n.jpg
    Last edited by carbon fiber; 12-26-2017 at 08:01 AM.

  10. #330
    Senior Member beeman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Indiana
    Posts
    1,485
    Post Thanks / Like
    Wow Brent! I know the glass requires trimming, but that's crazy! Looks like you went a good inch beyond the recessed area, I wasn't aware of anyone posting that they had to carve that much out...
    If there's one redeeming value to fixing these issues, it's that you are learning some awesome fabrication skills!
    MK3.1 2004 Mach 1 donor. ABS, PS, TC.
    GTM #304 LPE 525hp LS3
    2000 C5 Lingenfelter LS1@489hp
    1999 Corvette FRC/Z06 track car

  11. #331
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Posts
    1,224
    Post Thanks / Like
    Great updates Brent!!!

    I hope you are enjoying your time down here in the sunshine state

  12. #332
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Southern Pines, NC
    Posts
    356
    Post Thanks / Like
    carbon fiber,

    trust me, the whole time we were working the rear hatch I was contemplating why I didn't just do some creative accounting to get your hatch lol

  13. #333
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Southern Pines, NC
    Posts
    356
    Post Thanks / Like
    Hey Beeman,

    You are very right, I hate that it took so long to get that stuff done BUT it forced me to learn a new skill and thats the only positive I can think of for such a bad body lol

  14. #334
    Banned
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Posts
    669
    Post Thanks / Like
    You've got a great thread going, this shows what you really have to do to get the body right. That's good info for guys building or contemplating a GTM build. Keep up the good work, It'll be well worth it when you get to the finished product. Ron is a saint to put himself through that part of the build over and over to help others! We appreciate you man!

  15. #335
    Senior Member Presto51's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Catonsville, Maryland
    Posts
    578
    Post Thanks / Like
    Thanks for all the kind words. I guess you can say I'm a half bubble off center, but how can you put a price on lending a hand to great people

    Now how about those stock tail lights
    "May you be in heaven a full half hour before the Devil knows you're dead"

  16. #336
    Senior Member Presto51's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Catonsville, Maryland
    Posts
    578
    Post Thanks / Like

    The Stock GTM Tail lights

    Well we all love them, right?

    images.jpg

    Love to hate them, is the most favorite/popular answer I've heard. (Disclaimer: I'm in that same camp as well )

    When first talking to Brent, the tail light conversation was brought up, and like everyone, he wanted an option that didn't break the bank, and looked OEM as possible.

    Oh yeah something that went with the general shape of the GTM
    "May you be in heaven a full half hour before the Devil knows you're dead"

  17. #337
    Senior Member Presto51's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Catonsville, Maryland
    Posts
    578
    Post Thanks / Like
    Thinking about, I pitched this idea of using the 1970 Camaro taillights. They're budget friendly, OEM looking, and the right shape.

    1970 Camaro Tailights.jpg

    But he wasn't sure how they might look. So I sent him this concept rendering that I had made awhile back

    Prestom-GTM-rear-2.jpg

    He really liked the look, but needed to keep his exhaust pipes coming out of the center of the rear body panel.

    Adjustments had to be made .
    "May you be in heaven a full half hour before the Devil knows you're dead"

  18. #338
    Senior Member beeman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Indiana
    Posts
    1,485
    Post Thanks / Like
    Wow, that is quite the rendering, unlike anything I have seen on here! Do you have a CAD model of the GTM??
    MK3.1 2004 Mach 1 donor. ABS, PS, TC.
    GTM #304 LPE 525hp LS3
    2000 C5 Lingenfelter LS1@489hp
    1999 Corvette FRC/Z06 track car

  19. #339
    Senior Member Presto51's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Catonsville, Maryland
    Posts
    578
    Post Thanks / Like
    No CAD model, just some ole hot rodder faith
    "May you be in heaven a full half hour before the Devil knows you're dead"

  20. #340
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Posts
    1,224
    Post Thanks / Like
    I agree, I need a guy like you to help me do some color renderings for decision purposes. All be it, I am way far away from doing body work, I keep dreaming about it.

  21. #341
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Clarksville, MD
    Posts
    232
    Post Thanks / Like
    When I was deciding on paint schemes, I had Murray Pfaff come up with about 20 different designs. We then settled on one and tweaked the colors until I was happy. He even sent me a 12" speed shape with the actual colors painted on so I could get a feel for how the colors played on the curves.

    http://www.pfaffdesigns.com/index.html

    Here's an example of the some of the designs/colors, and the one I finally went with.

    -Michael
    Attached Images Attached Images
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    SOLD JUNE 2018 - GTM #327, LS3, G50/20, Kooks, AC, Ron's Tanks, Crash's 4-port HCV, Shane's Bolts & Plenum & etc., plus a lot of other stuff. Finished November 2013.

    Not-up-to-date Build Site: http://rumrunnergtm.weebly.com

  22. #342
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Posts
    1,224
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by RumRunner View Post
    When I was deciding on paint schemes, I had Murray Pfaff come up with about 20 different designs. We then settled on one and tweaked the colors until I was happy. He even sent me a 12" speed shape with the actual colors painted on so I could get a feel for how the colors played on the curves.

    http://www.pfaffdesigns.com/index.html

    Here's an example of the some of the designs/colors, and the one I finally went with.

    -Michael
    That’s just the guy I need to put together something amazing, interior and exterior options. Not to mention making a poster of the “final” rendering to put on the wall to reference when I’m cursing myself for choosing this build LOL.

  23. #343
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Southern Pines, NC
    Posts
    356
    Post Thanks / Like
    Micheal,

    I've never seen those renderings, thanks for sharing those with us! I'm really surprised how much I like the cream and tan car with the orange stripe. Just goes to show that sometimes you have to see it to actually decide what you like or don't like.

  24. #344
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Southern Pines, NC
    Posts
    356
    Post Thanks / Like
    Sorry that the thread has gone dormant, thanks Ron for posting a few things to keep it somewhat alive lol. Thanks for posting that Brockmeyer design of yours, I was blown away by the detail of that drawing the first time you showed it to me. Ron won't toot his own horn but that drawing is so unique because Ron had a lot of input into that drawing. It takes a guy thats been in the community awhile to be able to get that type of visual product.

    So back to the car, I've been so busy with the holidays and taking care of a few things at work that needed a lot of attention I haven't made a lot of progress. I did get in there the other day and finally got the windows to roll up and down via the infinity box system using my phone over the wifi network, as alway there tech support was great and figured out the problem with just a few questions.

    I want to tackle the door poppers next, I ordered up a few small flat mount pulleys so i can mount the popper (actuator) on the base of the door and use the pulley to change the angle of the wire up to the latch. Saw Gene do it in his video blog and thought it was an easy way to crack that nut.

    Tina's new display is finally done and should be at my place next weekend hopefully! He's been working hard on getting the system figured out so and has been great with giving me updates on what he's working on and when he thinks he'll have it figured out and wrapped up. I didn't dare rush him because I knew given some time he'd put out the right product. I wish I had half of his technical knowledge!

    I ordered the Marquez billet aluminum 70-73 taillights about 6 months ago! Looooong story but they could use a lesson from Tino in customer service and communication. They promise me they will have me the tail lights in 3-4 weeks..... we'll see.

    So with the taillights coming in and Tinos dash coming in, I'll finally be able to wrap up electrical and get everything nice and tidy and wrapped. Once that happens I'll finally feel like its ok to button up the frame with all the aluminum panels.

    So there's where I'm at and where I'm going in the near future, stay posted for some pics of what is hopefully some near future progress lol

  25. #345
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Southern Pines, NC
    Posts
    356
    Post Thanks / Like
    Help! Lol

    So I’m not a suspension guy and when I read about tuning suspensions I can’t believe how technical it can be with all the adjustments. That being said I’m having an issue with one tire!!! Three are sitting pretty inside the wheel wells and one is OFF! The front passenger side tire is too far forward in the wheel well! It needs to come towards the rear 3/4”. I even measured the driver side distance from front wheel to rear wheel and it’s exactly 3/4” shorter than the passenger side distance from front to back. Since the passenger side rear tire is in the center of the wheel well it don’t want to move it and all the adjustment needs to come from the passenger side front wheel. I don’t understand why it’s so far off and why I can’t get enough caster adjustment? Is the front suspension mounts welded wrong? Is this a common issue? How do I fix it?

  26. #346
    Senior Member beeman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Indiana
    Posts
    1,485
    Post Thanks / Like
    Have you had an alignment yet? Are your LCA cam bolts in similar position side to side? Don't expect much caster with FFR setup, maybe 2-3 depending on how much camber you want.
    MK3.1 2004 Mach 1 donor. ABS, PS, TC.
    GTM #304 LPE 525hp LS3
    2000 C5 Lingenfelter LS1@489hp
    1999 Corvette FRC/Z06 track car

  27. #347
    Senior Member Roger Reid's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Caldwell (near Boise) Idaho
    Posts
    237
    Post Thanks / Like
    What are your front and rear caster, camber suspension settings? Also is your car a gen 1 or 2?
    Last edited by Roger Reid; 02-02-2018 at 07:05 PM.
    Just an old man with a great hobby

  28. #348
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Southern Pines, NC
    Posts
    356
    Post Thanks / Like
    It’s a gen 2 and yes I had the car aligned professionally when it was in the go cart stage, I was told at the time that it was maxed out caster wise and wasn’t completely symmetrical with the other side, but they said it was close. Well sometimes close is all you can get with this GTM and I didn’t really notice it until the hood was on and tried to open it and one side kept hitting the wheel and the other didn’t, that’s when I noticed the wheel being further forward than the other tires and I can’t unsee it lol

  29. #349
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Southern Pines, NC
    Posts
    356
    Post Thanks / Like
    I’ll get yo guys those numbers soon

  30. #350
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Southern Pines, NC
    Posts
    356
    Post Thanks / Like
    Crash,

    Will your shim kit give me slightly more caster adjustment?

  31. #351
    Senior Member Roger Reid's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Caldwell (near Boise) Idaho
    Posts
    237
    Post Thanks / Like
    The adjustments on the front are controlled with the lower mounts whether they be with the stock snail cam or Crash's shim kit. To obtain maximum caster, the rear lower control arm LCA is normally maxed out (outward) with the front LCA adjusting for camber. Then you live with whatever caster you get. If the right front wheel is too far forward in the wheel well you may be able to adjust it rearward, maintaining the camber equal to the left side. What you will loose is caster on the right side. That's why we're looking for the numbers on camber and caster. If the camber and caster numbers were close to equal left and right with the right front wheel too far forward. In that case the right upper control arm frame mounts need to be modified to pull the ball joint rearwards. This would allow you to adjust the lower snail cams to pull the wheel rearward while maintaining equal left/right caster, camber numbers.

    To modify the upper control arm UCA frame mounts (tabs welded to the frame), it may be as simple as filing (rearwards) the round hole in the tab into a slot. You can get a little more rearward motion by angling the front slot outward and the rear slot inward to angle the control arm. The whole idea is to move the ball joint as it connects to the upright (rearwards). Take a look at the clearance between the rear UCA and the frame to see how much you can move the arm in towards the frame and rearward. File the slot accordingly.

    I use Crash's shim kit. It will give a little more adjustment at the extreme ends of adjustment. The shim kit also will not budge after setting it. a big bump or pothole could cause the stock snail cam adjusters to shift.
    Last edited by Roger Reid; 02-03-2018 at 01:47 PM.
    Just an old man with a great hobby

  32. #352
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Southern Pines, NC
    Posts
    356
    Post Thanks / Like
    I can't find the print out sheet that they gave me when I had the alignment done, the guy who did it is a friend of mine and of course remembers the car and remembers the caster not matching but said he's almost positive the numbers were within an acceptable range of each other and it wasn't way off. I'm not sure if that helps at all and I'll keep looking for that sheet.

    Has anyone heard of this issue before? remounting the upper A arm bracket seems like it might be the easiest option. If crashes shims can give me the movement needed then thats a win/win. Sigh its just another obstacle I have to figure out that I feel like I shouldn't have to. Everyone accepts the body fitment issues, but now I have suspension mounting issues?

  33. #353
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Southern Pines, NC
    Posts
    356
    Post Thanks / Like
    well onto other deficiencies on the car lol, the hood never really lined up well with the rest of the body to make a flush wheel well, I either had to cheat the hood forward or back backwards. So I decided to keep the wheel well as lined up and extend the hood back. This will help mask that ugly area where the three body parts come together, the hood, the body and the door.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  34. #354
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Southern Pines, NC
    Posts
    356
    Post Thanks / Like
    While Ron was doing his magic of extending and sculpting the hood, I moved on to the door poppers. Well I call them poppers but to be more specific they are actuators. The actuator is too long to attach directly to the door latch so I had to move it to the bottom of the door and used a small pulley to redirect the cable to the latch. The infinity box already has power wires designated for the actuators so powering them was easy, they weren't a fancy brand, just a pair i bought off eBay, they work great so far and have plenty of force to extend the door latch. Once the latch is open the door just swings out nice and slow.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  35. #355
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Southern Pines, NC
    Posts
    356
    Post Thanks / Like
    and lastly, I started to tinker with the iPad mini integration into the dash, I bought the dash kit from soundmanca and he has a quick video that shows how he grafts them into the dash. I peeled the leather off and cut out an opening for the dash kit and epoxy'd it in. I'll put some body filler to smooth our the lines and sand it all down.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  36. #356
    Senior Member beeman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Indiana
    Posts
    1,485
    Post Thanks / Like
    Take a pic of you right and left cam bolts on the front LCAs, I'm curious
    Edit: not trying to sound demanding
    MK3.1 2004 Mach 1 donor. ABS, PS, TC.
    GTM #304 LPE 525hp LS3
    2000 C5 Lingenfelter LS1@489hp
    1999 Corvette FRC/Z06 track car

  37. #357
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Southern Pines, NC
    Posts
    356
    Post Thanks / Like
    haha no offense taken! I appreciate you and Roger and anyone else that is trying to help me figure it out! My Driver side front tire is still aligned and set, that one is centered. I just want to make sure you know the passenger one has been messed with by me since being aligned. This weekend while messing with the hood and needing to raise and lower the hood over and over I decided to mess with the passenger front tire because everytime I raised and lowered the hood it hit the tire because the tire was too far forward. So I decided I'd get under there and see how exactly how much caster change i can get without caring about camber. I need to move the tire back 3/4" to center it in the wheel well and I was only able move the tire back 1/4" and of course the camber is way off. Just wanted you to know that and I'll try and have them posted by tomorrow.

  38. #358
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Posts
    1,224
    Post Thanks / Like
    Hey Brent,

    Obviously I’m way behind you, but while putting in my PFADT bushings and pins in my upper front suspension, I ran into the driver side forward UCA mount different than the passenger side. I had to swap the bushings (one side is thicker than the other) to essentially move the pin without moving the location of the control arm. This tells me they screwed up welding the tabs on mine. Hopefully my quick fix doesn’t come back to bite me when I get to alignment time.

    Question. Will your iPad work with Tino’s system and the Infinitybox?

    Thanks,
    Sean

  39. #359
    VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Posts
    1,447
    Post Thanks / Like
    We've never had an issue with getting where we needed to go on the front alignment on a Gen II. We normally set the rear cam bolts all the way outboard (max caster) and then use the front cam bolts to get to the camber we're looking for. If there is a bit difference side-to-side on caster once we get camber, then we fiddle with the rear cam bolt on one side until the camber and caster match the opposite side. Yes.....the hood can be an issue if it is mounted too far to the rear of the car. We normally end up adding quite a bit to the rear edge of the hood on the passenger side to get it to match the body.
    Shane Vacek
    VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC
    www.vraptorspeedworks.com
    Turn-key GTM, SL-C & Ultima GTR Built to Your Specs!
    Offering a full line of GTM Upgrades and Custom Parts

  40. #360
    LCD Gauges's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Toronto, Ontario
    Posts
    1,545
    Post Thanks / Like
    Blog Entries
    3
    Brent,

    The Gen 1 hoods have the same issue with lining up near the outside windshield cowl, and fender lines.

    I feel that I'll have to cut/splice/and glass at least one side to get the alignment proper.

    Quote Originally Posted by Shoeless View Post
    Hey Brent,

    Question. Will your iPad work with Tino’s system and the Infinitybox?

    Thanks,
    Sean
    Yes, the LCD Gauges are a stand-alone design. My system uses dedicated sensors, so there's no interference with the Engine PCM, or any
    other 3rd party electronics.
    Custom LCD Gauges , Data Loggers, Control Touch Screens
    www.LCDdash.com \\ 647-522-9953 \\ Voice & Text
    Proud new owner of GTM Gen 1., #105 - 08/27/11
    LQ9 Powered, G96.00 6 speed transaxle

Page 9 of 11 FirstFirst ... 7891011 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

Brown County Customs

Visit our community sponsor