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Thread: Front body quick jack mounts

  1. #1
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    Front body quick jack mounts

    Hello everyone. This is my first post but not my first experience with the forum. I have accessed the forum very often even before I purchased my complete Mark IV kit. I must say that the site has been quite an asset during my build. I have used a number of ideas and suggestions from the many post I have viewed. I would like to thank those individuals but they are too numerous to mention. However, I would like to thank Jeff Kleiner on his post about the rear quick jack mounts as well as the Speedhut gauges to Ron Francis hook up. Worked out well.

    My present issue concerns the Driver side quick jack mounts (front frame horns). The body is centered on the chassis. Sets within the hood opening and the 3/4 tubes, the dash, door latches as well as the rear quick jack mounts, etc. All the weather stripping is attached. All seems well.
    However, the driver side quick jack mount is extremely close to the brake duct cut out opening as well as the lower body splash pan. It appears that it needs to be moved (bent) inward toward the radiator by 1/2 inch. The passenger side mount appears to have enough room. Is there a way to move the mount 3/4 tubes inward without bending the frame. Your expertise would be appreciated.

    Tom T

  2. #2
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Those front frame horns with the QJ attachment points can be "adjusted" over pretty easily. Not unusual, and coincidentally I guess both of my completed builds to date required the DS to be moved toward the center a bit. Couple of good wacks with a dead blow hammer and block of wood moved mine about the 1/2 inch needed. Ideally the body should be off and I also removed the radiator. Just didn't want to damage anything. Some have done the adjustment with the body on. Just be really careful. Maybe push (pull?) vs. hitting with a hammer? You're not going to bend the basic frame structure adjusting those.
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  3. #3
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    Thank you for the advise. Since the body is on the chassis, I will carefully try the push/pull approach. I'll inform as to how it worked out.

    Tom T.

  4. #4
    Senior Member rmiller64's Avatar
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    Hi Tom

    Just did mine a few weeks ago. I moved the drivers side in towards the middle 1/2 inch to line up with holes in body and get clearance from the vent hole. I took the body off and used a 6 ft 2x4 and on outside of the frame and hooked behind shock mount a couple tugs and it moved right over. Reminder the body is lifted 1/2 to 9/16 above the 3/4 hood opening frame before tightening the the front quick jacks assuming you have a Mk IV
    Rick
    #8442 MK4 Complete kit, 331 Stroker, T5, 3.73 Posi 3-Link, 15", Goodyear Billboards
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    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...MK4-8442-Build

  5. #5
    Not a waxer Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    When positioning the front of the the body left to right keep in mind that it centers over the wheels, not the frame tubes around the hood opening. I measure from the outside edge of the front wheelwell lip to a fixed front suspension point such as the upper coilover mount.

    Jeff

  6. #6
    Senior Member CraigS's Avatar
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    Jeff that is excellent info. Seems like FFR actually did everyone a favor having the front of the body off those 3/4 tubes at the hood opening in the MKIV. In previous MKs it seemed obvious to center on the tubes since the body was resting on them. How many times have builders, in the past, set the body to center on those tubes, only to find out (much later in some cases) that one front tire sticks further out than the other. I am curious, does the manual address any of this?
    FFR MkII, 408W, Tremec TKO 500, 2015 IRS, DA QA1s, Forte front bar, APE hardtop.

  7. #7
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    Thank you for the tips everyone. Yes, it is a Mark IV. I have measured the front body from the front wheel well lip to the upper coil over mount and everything meaures fine. It's just that the D/S quick jack mount is too close to the body for comfort. I'm finding this seems to be a common problem.

    Tom T.

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