That looks like a great idea! I wonder if HF has one that I can use with the car on the ground and when it's up on the lift?
Keith HR #894
Actually, The legs are adjustable on this one, it will go up to twice the height. Looking at it, I was thinking about shortening the legs about 4 inches so I could use it comfortably while the car was on the ground.
So, been a lot of attention to my sweetheart this last three weeks. Some of it documented here includes the replacement of my steering assembly with a Burgeson slipping joint shaft, replacement of all joints with Burgeson Joints, inadvertent cutting of electric fan lines, eventually fixing the damage to the fan lines, and finally cleaning her up (go figure). Lots of rock chips from lots of miles. Need some major touch up.
Been driving this car a long time. Never had/installed the Windshield Trim. On the spur of the moment I went out and bought some cheap stuff and spent a couple of hours putting it on. I think it turned ou pretty good. Try the back window next. El cheap stuff comes in a roll so first thing I did was mock it up on the car leaving the sticky stuff unmolested.. Then I cleaned off the glass edges and fit a small piece to see if it would look worth a ****. Once committed I fit the flex strip to the windshield outer glass edges and taped it down where possible. I let it sit over night to get the coil out of it from being rolled up in the package. This morning I slipped the edge of the wax backing off and smoothed it down flat on the windshield. Fitment of the curves seemed tricky but was in the end doable. The lower corners needed some work so I got some right angle ornamental pieces to set them up right. I like the results. I guess only time will tell on how it lasts.
'33 Hotrod, #1047 Gen 1, delivered on 2/27/18, go cart on 9/24/18.
LS3 w/Gearstar Level 3 4L65e Tranny, Yank converter, Lokar shifter, Electric PS, Vintage AC/Heat/Def, 8.8" 3.55
TorqThrust II Wheels w/Toyo Proxy T1 Sport Tires, F 235/45ZR17 R 295/35ZR18
Garage Built, Driveway Painted.
I tried the Moog K150289 as suggested. It fit perfectly on the driver side. of the rack. However, the Bellows on the passengers side is completely different. As I have researched it, the FLA-FR1501-P is the one for the passenger side.
In the picture below we are holding the Moog K150289 in the left hand and the Flaming River FLA-FR1501-P in the right hand. Picture 2 is the passenger side Tie Rod end.
Been a really busy month for the suspension. We changed all the steering components out and replaced the Bellows on the rack. Finished this phase up today going over the alignment and ensuring it was spot on. Car handles and drives like a totally different vehicle. Steering is solid, no lag whatsoever. We will see how the components weather my driving over the upcoming months.
Took the old girl out for a show today. Got a top ten finish which ain’t bad for a hard working girl. Only one Prowler comment and that was a question whether MOPAR Stole if from Factory Five? ROFLMAO. Amazingly won a couple of liters of Jack Daniels. I got diabetes and am scheduled for cancer surgery in two weeks. Go figure. We raffled it off and donated the money.
One of the things I Love most about car shows is letting kids get their pictures took sitting in the car. Mostly I let their parents take the shots with their own cameras. I love the smiles. Had a couple of adults stop by and lament they might be too big. Couple of the guys were well over 6’5”. I tole em it was like jumping from an airplane, take the big step and follow your feet. I did recommend going at it butt first. Nobody got stuck.
I really love my guitar made by my son in law Greg Birmingham. I’ve rigged an auxiliary bluetooth driven speaker system I can double as an amp. Fell in love with the Martin D-45 they brought out to photograph with the car.
Got my Boyd’s Tank in last week. Decided to add their 340 LPH in tank pump. May not have enough time to get it in this month. Looking for an early start in June.
a couple of tips before the install - be sure the pick up for the pump is all the way at the bottom of the tank so you can use all the available gas before running out - with the small capacity you want to be able to use it all.
also, verify and adjust as necessary the fuel level sender float assembly if you want an accurate gas gauge.
Nice Bill. I was looking for you to toast off another one that thought his was quicker.
I need to get my GoPro mounted and make a few videos too.
'33 Hotrod, #1047 Gen 1, delivered on 2/27/18, go cart on 9/24/18.
LS3 w/Gearstar Level 3 4L65e Tranny, Yank converter, Lokar shifter, Electric PS, Vintage AC/Heat/Def, 8.8" 3.55
TorqThrust II Wheels w/Toyo Proxy T1 Sport Tires, F 235/45ZR17 R 295/35ZR18
Garage Built, Driveway Painted.
Sorry for the repost, do kinda need help though. Putting the Boyd Tank in next week. After 8 years of dealing with the Gen I OEM tank I've decided to move forward. I would very much appreciate a pointer to the Boyd tank installation, especially the filler neck connection to the tank. Here is the request.
1. Did you use the internal or external pump?
2. Will the internal pump work with a carbureted engine that has been converted to Holley sniper?
3. Has anyone attempted to use the Holley LIDAR fuel level sender?
4. Are the Boyd vents adequate?
5. Any problems sloshing back through the vent with the Boyd (I got the rollover vent option)?
6. Where did you route the vent tube (pictures)?
7. Anyone go in from the rear to take the old tank out and install the Boyd (pictures)?
8. I have a converter to convert the Boyd sending unit signal to work with the Auto Meter Fuel Gauge, Where did you mount the unit (pictures)?
9. I would be grateful for any help/advice
Been a long year, lots of busy but finally got around to beginning the install on the Boyd Fuel Tank today. Day 1 was mostly devoted to cutting the old tank out. I could write that it was a snap, just took a few minutes and was a completely straight forward fun process. I do enjoy working with my friends, but the truth is that was a pain in the royal ***. Starting my lessons learned early. First off, never install a waterfall in one piece, trisect it so you can remove it with the rollbar in tact allowing access to the front of the tank. It is not easy to find and unbolt the fasteners on the front of the tank. I am told the tank slides out of the front. Naturally I had to try it the other way, without vaseline. Anyhow, in a couple of hours we got it. Now to clean up and rewire it. Enjoy the video
Halfway through the install on the Boyd Tank. We had believed we could install the tank from the rear and thus avoid pulling half the damned car apart. Turns out untrue. Regardless of the solution, Gen I, later Gen, or Boyd, the issues I have dealt with are inherent to the design of the tank which rises to a point nearly level with the top of the filler cap, leaves no room for access and maintenance, repair, or proper venting. While this may just be my opinion, several others have made similar complaints. Slow fill times are a result of the difficulty in properly venting the application. My opinion is that you will never be able to vent the tank effectively with the design. Lack of baffles in earlier versions only assists the vent tube in pouring gas out of the tank on the street. I find constraints with the width of the footprint, difficult accessibility to the fixtures and fittings, lack of ease to replace or service elements, such as the in tank fuel pump, the tendency for the filler tube cap to tank inlet to deteriorate and lose the slope necessary to assist in filling the tank with the otherwise unoptimal venting tube routing available and for the Gen I lack of baffling to be barriers to what I really want in the car. Keep in mind that I have over 100,000 miles on the chassis and fuel supply system. If you figure I fill the tank every day I drive the car, never let it go below half full, and I have now been driving it since 2018, that is surely more than 2,000 fill ups, each putting pressure on the filler tube and I have had to remove, reconstruct, and replace the filler tube over a dozen times as the non fuel handling grade radiator hose connectors just wear out. I'm sitting here looking at nearly $900 worth of Boyd tank and am now two days into cutting the gen 1 tank out. I am studying this and asking myself, isn't the design flawed?
Had the designed tank been 2-4 inches shorter in height and 1-2 inches wider at the base and top it would have been possible to remove and reinstall the unit from the trunk, replace the intank fuel pump by sliding the entire unit backwards 6-7 inches, access and work on the fixtures at top (such as the vent tube), The capacity would not have been reduced significantly, and the addition of a vented canister trap or a vent tube route higher than the actually top of the tank, and slope the filler tube at an angle that would not be compromised over time by continuous use. Further, use of the entire back shelf would have allowed for a tank 6-7 inches deep, 30-40 inches wide, and 15-17 inches wide. It would be possible to get about 15 gallons in capacity and to have an accessible, rentable, clean smelling fuel supply solution. The tradeoff would be loss of about 7-10 inches in the trunk where I currently have the battery sitting, meaning I'd have to relocate it. Ive been looking at the Rhodes race car street series tank https://static.summitracing.com/glob...2-su_nt_xl.jpg which is 30 by 17 by 7. I can re-fabricate it or build to similar dimensions. I know many of you have had no fuel supply problems at all and am not wishing to in any way malign other solutions, but this has been the only issue I have been unhappy with for nearly 9 years. And I am wanting to try something different.
I’m with you. Even though I have a Gen 1 with the newer tank that fills fast I still have the smell of gas. It’s much worse when the tank is at 3/4 or more full.
It sloshes around comes out the vent and soaks the charcoal canister which vents to atmosphere. Purging the canister thru the purge valve on the intake doesn’t help.
Out of desperation I removed the canister and installed two 1/2 PSI check valves in the vent line. See crummy drawing.
They are in parallel but in opposite directions, both go to atmosphere.
If the tank needs to vent or pull in air it can. This has reduced the gas smell in the cabin and garage by 75%.
'33 Hotrod, #1047 Gen 1, delivered on 2/27/18, go cart on 9/24/18.
LS3 w/Gearstar Level 3 4L65e Tranny, Yank converter, Lokar shifter, Electric PS, Vintage AC/Heat/Def, 8.8" 3.55
TorqThrust II Wheels w/Toyo Proxy T1 Sport Tires, F 235/45ZR17 R 295/35ZR18
Garage Built, Driveway Painted.
Well stuck my foot in my mouth, after hanging on to this beautiful; new Boyd Tank for nearly a year or better we decided to go ahead and put it in. I still think the Rhode's Tank offers a lot of potential. But to have to gather parts, refabricate the trunk space and the behind the waterfall space, it seemed more prudent to give the new tank a shot. I am hoping the fact that it is baffled will make a noticeable improvement. Still stuck with a very unreliable filler tube solution and personally doubt the vent will work well because of the height of the tank itself. Roof hasn't been off the car since 2017 and the waterfall has also been in place a number of years. So now we are in to day three of the project.
Finished, mostly, the gas tank install today. Am very pleased thus far. The Boyd Tank is beautiful. Fitment was difficult, requiring some squeezing, trimming and holding the breath. We poured two 5 gallon cans of gas into it and there seemed to be no venting issues. I was very worried about my Sniper which had been running well but the intank 340 LPH Aeromotive seems to be very efficient, makes a lot less noise. Car seems to crank better in fact, especially since we improved the grounding. For my own shortcomings I did not study the Boyd accessories page where there are quite a few filler tube solutions, ergo we wound up with a typical rubbish hose. Very tough to ensure the hose slopes from the filler cap downward to the tank inlet since the two are virtually on level. I did notice the shoulders on the front side of the tank will create3 some tight fit issues if service is needed around the tank We used an auto bridge connector to sync the sending u nit with the gauge and thus far it seems to b working fine. Hopefully, with a little sunshine tomorrow, we will get to drive it down the road a bit and to fill it from a gas pump. I am anxious to see if the baffles will ave a positive effect as the Gen I tank left more gas on the rod than the stroker motor burned.
Video adds footage at the end, showing basically start to finish removing and replacing gas tank.
Brought the car home today. No leaks that I noticed, took her to large parking lot to cut some circles to see if there was any spillage through the vent tube. Apparently the baffles worked well.
Can't seem to get a break. Got the car home perfectly fine on a 45 mile drive. Had a little vent trouble topping off at the gas station. Next day cranked her up to drive to the gas station and measure how much used from the last top off. Did that and took her for a short jaunt. Hit it hard for a good pull. Pull went great, dropped it off to cruise. I've been having trouble for a while with the throttle hanging when the pedal was released, it would hang around 2000 rpm and I had to blip the throttle to get it to idle down. I have worked hard on the accelerator cable, made sure there was no binding or carpet binding under the pedal. When I got out of the throttle one this hit, the TPS went nuts as did the AFR and Timing. I figured I had either burned the in-tank pump out or that the new pump was putting out too much fuel pressure. I put a fuel pressure gauge on it and it is sitting right on 58 PSI. Next thought was that I burned out the TPS. Got a new one coming and will try it over the next few days
So I got the new TPS for the Holley 4150 Stealth Sniper. Hooked it up and the TPS is working right now. I turn the ignition switch to on and it is setting at zero and goes to 100% when I mash the loud pedal. Late here tonight so I won't start it up for the neighbors sake but looking forward to trying it in the morning.
TPS wasn't the problem. Problem was the blades on the secondaries were misaligned over time due to buildups on them and in the bore of the throttle body. Loosened the blades, snapped them a couple of times to recenter them and the car is working great.
New set of car show posters for the Texas Thaw weekend. Texas Thaw is an annual nostalgia event in Witchita Falls Texas. It includes a nostalgia car show and nostalgia drag racing.
Old Girl done proud this weekend at Texas Thaw 2024. Got top ten award for the car show. Track was cold and we didn't get a good pass in but it was a good weekend anyway.
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