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Thread: Wyoming 818R Build Thread

  1. #1
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    Wyoming 818R Build Thread

    Hi All,

    I have had my kit since last December and have been making extremely slow progress on it due to some life/work/travel fun.

    Here are some tips I've assembled. Last updated 11-10-15
    https://docs.google.com/document/d/1...zdZ726ec7Y/pub

    Preview:



    I will format the pictures and add description tomorrow. For now, enjoy the album:
    http://imgur.com/a/C6bZD

    The kit arrives!



    Installed heater in my garage for cold weather build sessions.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by shoeish; 11-18-2015 at 04:47 PM. Reason: Updated

  2. #2
    Senior Member matteo92065's Avatar
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    wow!, nice build. I like your attention to details. It looks super clean.

  3. #3

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    Amazing build. Im assuming the dyno numbers are at the crank? Any info on the motor build?

  4. #4
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    The dyno numbers are actually my GT-R at the wheels.

    I was going to tell a better story about how/what/why I have done things on the 818 soon.

  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by shoeish View Post
    The dyno numbers are actually my GT-R at the wheels.

    I was going to tell a better story about how/what/why I have done things on the 818 soon.
    You had me pretty damn amazed there for a minute. Lookin forward to it the write up.

  6. #6
    Senior Member Rasmus's Avatar
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    Only two posts and he's got the motor in, brakes on, decorative paint on stuff. Show off!

    Oh and Welcome to the forum. Post more. Pictures too.
    Fast Cars, Fast Women, Fast Haircuts!

  7. #7
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    Nice to see another R build.
    "Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement"
    Owner: Colonel Red Racing
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    818R ICSCC SPM
    2005 Subaru STI Race Car ICSCC ST and SPM
    Palatov DP4 - ICSCC Sports Racer

  8. #8
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    Does anybody know if I will have enough clearance to mount this air/oil separator here?


    imagen

    Thanks all!

  9. #9
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    Purchased a riced out 2002 WRX from some ricer in Billings. Attempts at rally-x failed poorly. Dis-assembly commenced.





    The assembly begins! Make sure to mount your pedals BEFORE this step. Current manual fixes this.


    Gas tank mounted, rear firewall construction:


    I decided to have as many parts as possible powdercoated in GOLD.
    Last edited by shoeish; 03-16-2016 at 04:16 PM.

  10. #10
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    Yep, it looks awesome.



    Front suspension in GOLD. Upgraded to STI lower control arms, put new bushings on everything from Whiteline. Had a professional put new hubs, wheel bearings and seals in. ARP Wheel studs as well. Should have powdercoated everything, I primed and painted instead after the fact.



    Three times now, a lack of brakes as tried to kill me on track. This time I bought the big Wilwoods from FFR.



    Front end assembled. I planned to use the stock radiator until the very last time I was putting it in I busted the plastic tank. DOH.


  11. #11
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    I wanted some better coolant tubes than the ones included with the kit so I ordered them from Breeze Automotive. Amazing quality and oddly at the exact price it would cost to buy your own bender and materials.

    Brake and clutch master cylinder installed.



    Steering column installed and starting to look like a car:


    FFR included the street version of the dead pedals with my kit. I called and they sent me the correct ones. I still had to cut out the triangles.


    Brake lines bent. DO NOT use the two little holes, those are apparently for the shifter. I had to move these, and in the process made them less pretty.


    Current progress:
    Last edited by shoeish; 11-20-2015 at 08:53 AM.

  12. #12
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    The accelerator pedal mount was very flimsy. I added one rivet up top which stiffened the whole thing up.



    SCR Performance in Loveland, CO built my engine. It just so happened that Chrysler Gold engine paint from Napa is very close to the powder coat color I picked. Peter did a great job of painting it as he built it. This is a 2.5 block, 2.0 heads with machine work, STI cams, 1000cc injectors, and a small but clever aftermarket turbo. More details to come.




    I got the motor bolted to the car. My transmission is a Subaru Forester transmission with 4.11 gears and RA 3rd and 4th gears. Six Star Cars did the rebuild/resource, 2wd conversion, and Keith kindly put an LSD in for a reasonable cost.

  13. #13
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    I put the clutch in. Then I put the transmission on, pulled the trnamission, turned the throwout bearing around, and put the transmission on again.



    Lots of holes.


    I can't weld and needed some seat brackets welded in. Off to Grandpa's! I put the wheels on and it is shocking how low it is after its been up on jackstands the whole time.


    Thansk Papa!



    The blue tape is just to prevent scratches when I set things down. New radiator in and AWIC heat exchanger mounted.

  14. #14
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    Fuel lines mounted. I have the aftermarket fuel rails which made this install very easy. (EDIT: I DO NOT HAVE A REGULATOR OR DAMPENER INSTALLED IN THIS PICTURE, because I am a moron)


    Fuel filter location per the FFR assembly manual.


    iWire harness going in.


    Blue = boost controller
    White = front (O2)
    Orange = EGT for uppipe, won't be used with my headers/aftermarket uppipe


    Aftermarket axles from the Driveshaft Shop. Worth every penny of not having to screw with their axles which will break anyway. They were *very* helpful in measuring and getting the right ones.


    Godzilla is watching closely.
    Last edited by shoeish; 03-14-2016 at 02:46 PM.

  15. #15
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    More wiring harness:


    Transmission tunnel fitting, ebrake fitting, and shifter fitting.
    WHAT IS THIS HOLE?


    Current status:

  16. #16
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    I got the good camera out for some really clear pictures.


    My custom upper radiator brackets. One metal strip, one vice, one hammer, one oil field guy:


    The iwire kit is seriously nice:


    The foam has saved me at least 14 trips to the ER.


    Detail shot of the AWIC water pump.


    Steering wheel removed. Again, one metal strip, three holes, some luck, a hammer, and an oil field guy. LEAVE THE NUT ON A FEW THREADS unless you intend to do a backflip with a steering wheel in your eye.

    Also, you will need the clockspring if you want a blink that turns off when you turn.


    Pedal assembly:

  17. #17
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    Harness, brake line, fuel line, clutch line, mounting. The ECU bracket is pretty scratchy so it got wrapped in bubble wrap. I keep telling people that's how it's going to ride.


    Rear strut tower brace installed.


    Shifter cable routing:



    This, right here, is how Subaru mounts the emergency brake cables to the rear swing arms on a 2002 WRX. I'm hoping Google images will index this and save the next person a million hours of searching.


    More wiring harness:


    Not especially tidy but not terrible:

  18. #18
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    High Resolution of front end:


    Glamour shots:






  19. #19

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    Fantastic work. Any goals for HP/TQ?

  20. #20
    Senior Member AZPete's Avatar
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    Nice work. I like the gold everywhere but you need less space and more dirt to compare to the rest of us.
    818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities. Sold 10/19 with 5,800 miles.
    Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).

  21. #21
    Senior Member Flamshackle's Avatar
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    Looks amazing mate! Well done and I look forward to seeing it get its body on.

    What is your colour goal?
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  22. #22
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    I'm just going to say ""WOW"" and ask questions later.

    Well, maybe one question. What equal length header are you using and how far below the frame does it hang?
    Bob
    Last edited by Bob_n_Cincy; 11-16-2015 at 02:51 PM.
    818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
    My Son Michael's Turbo ICE Build X22 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rts-818S-Build
    My Electric Supercar Build X21 (on hold until winter) http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-Build-Thread

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kurk818 View Post
    Fantastic work. Any goals for HP/TQ?
    Thanks for the compliments everybody.

    My horsepower/torque goals are 300/300. I live up at 4500ft and track at 5000ft, so I wanted a boosted motor with the best possible transient torque and flattest torque curve possible.


    Quote Originally Posted by Flamshackle View Post
    Looks amazing mate! Well done and I look forward to seeing it get its body on.

    What is your colour goal?
    I am not going to paint the shell, I'm going to wrap it with this color:


    I *might* scuff and prime the red fiberglass so it doesn't look like Christmas as I hit bugs/cones/etc.


    Quote Originally Posted by Bob_n_Cincy View Post
    I'm just going to say ""WOW"" and ask questions later.

    Well, maybe one question. What equal length header are you using and how far below the frame does it hang?
    Bob
    I am using the Killer B Holy Header Equal Length 4-into-1 with Up-Pipe and Killer B High Capacity Racing Oil Pan. The pan hangs a little lower so I won't be running the low ride height. The headers are fine. I'll get some pictures for you.

  24. #24
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    We are running the same setup, but doing a drop down to protect the pan and perrin QLH, will send pics. We MAY wrap the car as well, but need to do some research into the weight of each option.

  25. #25
    Moonlight Performance
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    Looks great! Never would have thought of gold but it looks really nice!

    I too would appreciate header pics. The killer-b headers look like they might be low and may not clear front frame but sounds like maybe that isn't an issue....

  26. #26
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    I'm guessing they hang down *maybe* 3/4 of an inch. I dropped the motor in with very little issue. I had to remove the dipstick, coolant tank, and oil filler neck.

    Worth it!



  27. #27
    Tech Support, FFR Courtnie Provencher's Avatar
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    It's a lot of fun watching build threads, and your car looks like it is coming out absolutely amazing.. I can't wait to see how this turns out!
    Courtnie Provencher
    Factory Five Tech Sales & Support

  28. #28
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    I did a little work on my intercooler and plumbing. Everything is from Frozenboost.com. Looks like I am NOT going to have enough room to mount the Crawford AWS where I had it. I'm building a little bracket for below.

    This was everything:
    1 x Water to Air Intercooler Pump and Harness, Bosch Cobra (WAT001001) = $124.48
    Mounting Hardware Include Mounting Kit
    1 x Water to Air Intercooler Radiator - 24x12x1 (Type 100) (WAT001002) = $149.99
    1 x Water to Air Intercooler, 12.25"x12.25"x4.5", Bend I/O (Type 14) (INT000214) = $149.99
    1 x T-Bolt Clamp for 1.75" Silicone Parts (CLA000107) = $2.60
    2 x T-Bolt Clamp for 2.0" Silicone Parts (CLA000100) = $5.20
    2 x T-Bolt Clamp for 3.0" Silicone Parts (CLA000104) = $5.20
    1 x Silicone Reducer, 3.0" to 2.75" - Black (SIL000066) = $11.99
    1 x Universal BOV with Greddy Type S Style Flange - Red (Type 4) (BOV000490) = $39.99
    1 x Remote Radiator Inline Filler Cap - 3/4" (WAT001064) = $24.99
    1 x Brass 1/2" NPT Male to 3/4" Barbed Straight (WAT001017) = $3.99
    2 x Brass 1/2" NPT Male to 3/4" Barbed 90 Elbow (WAT001015) = $7.98
    2 x Brass 1/2" NPT Male to 3/4" Barbed 90 Elbow (WAT001015) = $7.98
    1 x 1' Straight Aluminum Pipe, 2.0" (SIL000274) = $9.99 (PREPARE THE HACKSAW!)
    1 x BOV T-Pipe with Greddy Type S Style Flange - 2.5" (SSB000457) = $24.99
    1 x T-Bolt Clamp for 2.75" Silicone Parts (CLA000103) = $2.60
    1 x Silicone Reducer, 90° bend - 3.0" to 2.5" - Black (BRE000954) = $19.99
    1 x Silicone Reducer, 90° bend - 2.5" to 2.0" - Black (BRE000951) = $19.99
    1 x Silicone Reducer, 2.0" to 1.75" - Black (SIL000503) = $9.99
    2 x T-Bolt Clamp for 2.5" Silicone Parts (CLA000102) = $5.20
    20' of 3/4" heater hose from NAPA
    I will be using the same coolant Ford recommends for their GT500 AWIC system.







    I painted the AWIC and tubes with the rattle can. The bracket will get painted, too. Pretty secure solution, it doesn't seem like much side to side play is possible.
    Last edited by shoeish; 11-20-2015 at 08:54 AM. Reason: Added cost of AWIC components

  29. #29
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shoeish View Post
    I did a little work on my intercooler and plumbing. Everything is from Frozenboost.com. Looks like I am NOT going to have enough room to mount the Crawford AWS where I had it. I'm building a little bracket for below.

    This was everything:
    1 x T-Bolt Clamp for 1.75" Silicone Parts (CLA000107) = $2.60
    2 x T-Bolt Clamp for 2.0" Silicone Parts (CLA000100) = $5.20
    2 x T-Bolt Clamp for 3.0" Silicone Parts (CLA000104) = $5.20
    1 x Silicone Reducer, 3.0" to 2.75" - Black (SIL000066) = $11.99
    1 x Universal BOV with Greddy Type S Style Flange - Red (Type 4) (BOV000490) = $39.99
    1 x Remote Radiator Inline Filler Cap - 3/4" (WAT001064) = $24.99
    1 x Brass 1/2" NPT Male to 3/4" Barbed Straight (WAT001017) = $3.99
    2 x Brass 1/2" NPT Male to 3/4" Barbed 90 Elbow (WAT001015) = $7.98
    1 x 1' Straight Aluminum Pipe, 2.0" (SIL000274) = $9.99 (PREPARE THE HACKSAW!)
    1 x BOV T-Pipe with Greddy Type S Style Flange - 2.5" (SSB000457) = $24.99
    1 x T-Bolt Clamp for 2.75" Silicone Parts (CLA000103) = $2.60
    1 x Silicone Reducer, 90° bend - 3.0" to 2.5" - Black (BRE000954) = $19.99
    1 x Silicone Reducer, 90° bend - 2.5" to 2.0" - Black (BRE000951) = $19.99
    1 x Silicone Reducer, 2.0" to 1.75" - Black (SIL000503) = $9.99
    2 x T-Bolt Clamp for 2.5" Silicone Parts (CLA000102) = $5.20

    I painted the AWIC and tubes with the rattle can. The bracket will get painted, too. Pretty secure solution, it doesn't seem like much side to side play is possible.
    Great job Shoeish,
    When you get all the awic finished, can you post a cost including hose, punp, intercooler and exchanger. So people that follow in you footsteps know what they are in for.

    I suspect many will be copying your build. Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery.

    The rear end of your intercooler looks a little high, You may have to drop it down an inch. I will get you bolt to bolt dimension tomorrow.
    Keep up the good work.
    Bob
    Last edited by Bob_n_Cincy; 11-20-2015 at 02:15 AM.
    818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
    My Son Michael's Turbo ICE Build X22 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rts-818S-Build
    My Electric Supercar Build X21 (on hold until winter) http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-Build-Thread

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob_n_Cincy View Post
    Great job Shoeish,
    When you get all the awic finished, can you post a cost including hose, pump, intercooler and exchanger. So people that follow in you footsteps know what they are in for.
    Bob
    I updated my previous post with more Frozenboost order info.

    Thanks for the compliments. It sure seems like everything is right; it will probably kill me on the track.



    I also got my clutch bled, brakes bled, and throttle cable hooked up. Ignoring the hydraulic sprinkler system my brakes were the first time I tried this, all went well. The part number for the Wilwood stainless steel brake line to the lines FFR sent. They sent me the proper number (four), but I screwed two up with excessive cross-threaded torque. I used a harbor freight brake line flaring tool and the tool mentioned in my tips and tricks in the first post to put the brake lines in.


    http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WIL-220-6410
    Wilwood Brake Line Fittings and Adapters 220-6410

    If you can't get your clutch to bleed, you need to do what's called a "bench bleed." Take a clear hose, hook it up to the output of your clutch master cylinder, and put the top of the tube back in to the top reserviour of the master cylinder. You want the SMALLEST vertical difference between the top of the hose and the bottom, so short hose, no kinks, and level is best. With no hydraulic resistance, once depressed your clutch pedal will spring down and smash your pretty powder-coated fire wall, so put some tape where they will contact. Then reach down and pump the hell out of the clutch pedal getting max stroke until fluid starts to go between the two. This seemingly simple procedure will get fluid going through your master cylinder so you can hook things up and bleed per usual.

    As for the shifter, I bought the upgraded FFR shifter. FFR excluded the ball and pivot things (the 1/4-28 nylon nuts were included), and charged me way too much to send them out. I finally received them in the mail. Updates to come.

  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by bob_n_cincy View Post

    the rear end of your intercooler looks a little high, you may have to drop it down an inch. I will get you bolt to bolt dimension tomorrow.

    Bob
    thanks!!!


    Apparently the forums won't allow you to type in all caps to show appreciation, so....
    Last edited by shoeish; 11-20-2015 at 09:19 AM.

  32. #32
    Senior Member SixStar's Avatar
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    Looking great man. I really like the choice in brakes, don't listen to the haters!! Ha ha

    Can I call you out for a drag race right now? Maybe when Douglas opens up? Street tires. No prep. Winner gets lunch.
    Owner/builder - AEM Intakes 818R #85

  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by shoeish View Post
    1 x Water to Air Intercooler Pump and Harness, Bosch Cobra (WAT001001) = $124.48
    Mounting Hardware Include Mounting Kit
    1 x Water to Air Intercooler Radiator - 24x12x1 (Type 100) (WAT001002) = $149.99
    1 x Water to Air Intercooler, 12.25"x12.25"x4.5", Bend I/O (Type 14) (INT000214) = $149.99
    I haven't seen this thread in a while, so it's too late to save you some money, but if you buy kit WAT001006 from frozenboost you can configure it to get the Bosch pump, type 100 radiator, and the type 14 intercooler for $369.98 vs $424.96 buying them separately. There's an option to add in the filler cap for $22 vs $24 too. Your parts list looks like the one I shared here:

    https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7n...NJaHlnUjQ/view

    If you purchase the parts through me, I can drop ship those parts (from Frozenboost) for $526.29 (2% of core/radiator bundle, 5% off everything else) vs the $619.15 I added up from your parts list or vs $541 if you bought those parts yourself and used the discounted bundle vs buying separate.
    Zero Decibel Motorsports
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  34. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by SixStar View Post
    Looking great man. I really like the choice in brakes, don't listen to the haters!! Ha ha

    Can I call you out for a drag race right now? Maybe when Douglas opens up? Street tires. No prep. Winner gets lunch.
    It's on! If I lose we go to HPR for a ten lap race to maybe redeem myself,

    Quote Originally Posted by Mechie3 View Post
    I haven't seen this thread in a while, so it's too late to save you some money, but if you buy kit WAT001006 from frozenboost you can configure it to get the Bosch pump, type 100 radiator, and the type 14 intercooler for $369.98 vs $424.96 buying them separately. There's an option to add in the filler cap for $22 vs $24 too. Your parts list looks like the one I shared here:

    https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7n...NJaHlnUjQ/view

    If you purchase the parts through me, I can drop ship those parts (from Frozenboost) for $526.29 (2% of core/radiator bundle, 5% off everything else) vs the $619.15 I added up from your parts list or vs $541 if you bought those parts yourself and used the discounted bundle vs buying separate.
    I ordered the stuff WAY before I knew anybody else was doing an AWIC setup on their 818; I seriously thought I was being original. Luckily, I found your parts list to order all the right tubes which is going to save me a whole heap of trouble. Cheers, and thanks!

  35. #35
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    I think it was metros who actually clued me into the bundled kit. I paid full price for mine too. lol.

    I like all the gold. Makes it look like a very nicely put together car.
    Zero Decibel Motorsports
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  36. #36
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    You need to get Mechie3's brackets.
    zero.jpg

    Craig, gold anodizing please
    Bob
    818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
    My Son Michael's Turbo ICE Build X22 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rts-818S-Build
    My Electric Supercar Build X21 (on hold until winter) http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-Build-Thread

  37. #37
    Senior Member billjr212's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shoeish View Post

    Looking great! I like the gold, very sharp and nice tribute to Subaru and its gold wheels (not sure if that's intentional or if you just like gold!)

    Heads up - you will probably have to re-do your shifter linkage to clear the body work.

    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...al-Revision-1o

    See this thread and others. I did something similar to what Touchstone did and it works out fine. You also need to slide the bracket forward to compensate.

  38. #38
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shoeish View Post
    thanks!!!


    Apparently the forums won't allow you to type in all caps to show appreciation, so....
    Measured the distance from the trans bolt to the awic bolt = 13.5"
    Bob
    818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
    My Son Michael's Turbo ICE Build X22 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rts-818S-Build
    My Electric Supercar Build X21 (on hold until winter) http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-Build-Thread

  39. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob_n_Cincy View Post
    Measured the distance from the trans bolt to the awic bolt = 13.5"
    Bob
    I got mine adjusted. Thanks for the heads up.

  40. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by shoeish View Post
    I got mine adjusted. Thanks for the heads up.
    So I mounted up my Air/Water Seperator. Hopefully this image helps somebody. I *think* its correct. I also bypassed the heater, so somebody let me know if I'm correct or not on that too.


    1. 1/2" hose To the driver side head, T with #2
    2. 1/2" hose To the passenger side head, T with #1
    3. 1/2" hose From T of #1 and #2 to Top side mount on AWS
    4. 3/4" hose on crawford to hose resizer down to 1/2, to...
    5. 1/2" hose inlet on intake
    6. 5/8" hose to Y that goes to crankcase goes to...
    7. Right under #3 on AWS
    8. 1/2" hose from side of Y to...
    9. Very bottom of AWS
    10. 3/4" hose from bottom of Y to crankcase
    11. 1/2" hose from the curved and notched tube on the side of the AWS to...
    12. Degas tank.
    13. 1/2" hose to Turbo coolant to
    14. Straight and notched tube on side of AWS
    15. 5/8 hose from coolant manifold directly on top of block to...
    16. Coolant return? This bypasses the HEATER. (Note on a wrx: You don't have to do this, you'll want your heater)
    Last edited by shoeish; 11-23-2015 at 09:56 PM.

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